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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

Received  82554  -  '9°     ■ 

^Accession  Nc  .   Class  No. 


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THIS  RECORD 

OP 

A  NOBLE  AND  PATRIOTIC  LIFE 

IS  DEDICATED 

TO 

THE  YOUNG  MEN  OF  AMERICA 


82534 


PREFACE 

For  many  years  I  have  felt  impelled  to  write  this  Life, 
not  only  in  justice  to  General  Stevens's  memory,  but  also 
as  an  act  of  duty  to  the  young  men  of  the  country,  that 
the  example  of  his  noble  and  patriotic  career  might  not 
be  lost  to  posterity.  An  only  son,  closely  associated  from 
boyhood  with  him,  his  chief  of  staff  in  the  Civil  War, 
and  always  the  recipient  of  his  counsel  and  confidence, 
the  opportunities  thus  given  me  to  know  his  sentiments 
and  characteristics,  and  to  witness  so  many  of  his  actions, 
plainly  augment  the  duty  of  making  his  record  more 
widely  known.  In  these  pages,  setting  aside,  as  far  as 
possible,  the  bias  of  filial  respect  and  affection,  I  seek  to 
simply  narrate-  the  actual  facts  of  his  life. 

Since  beginning  this  work  in  1877, 1  have  been  greatly 
assisted  by  data  furnished  by  many  of  General  Stevens's 
contemporaries,  former  brother  officers,  and  associates  in 
the  public  service,  many  of  whom  have  now  passed  on. 
I  render  my  grateful  thanks  to  them  for  such  aid,  and 
for  their  words  of  appreciation  of  General  Stevens  and 
encouragement  to  his  biographer,  and  especially  to  Gen- 
erals Zealous  B.  Tower,  Henry  J.  Hunt,  Benjamin  Alvord, 
Edward  D.  Townsend,  Rufus  Ingalls,  A.  A.  Humphreys, 
E.  0.  C.  Ord,  Thomas  W.  Sherman,  Joseph  E.  Johnston, 
G.  T.  Beauregard,  William  H.  French,  Truman  Seymour, 
Orlando  M.  Poe,  Silas  Casey,  John  G.  Barnard,  M.  C. 
Meiggs,  Joseph  Hooker,  George  W.  Cullum,  David  Mor- 


vi  PREFACE 

rison,  George  E.  Randolph;  Colonels  Samuel  N.  Benjamin, 
Granville  0.  Haller,  Henry  C.  Hodges,  John  Hamilton, 
H.  G.  Heffron,  Elijah  Walker,  Moses  B.  Lakeman ;  Major 
Theodore  J.  Eckerson,  Major  George  T.  Clark ;  Captains 
William  T.  Lusk,  Robert  Armour,  C.  H.  Armstrong ; 
Professors  W.  H.  C.  Bartlett,  A.  E.  Church,  H.  S.  Ken- 
drick,  H.  E.  Hilgard,  Spencer  F.  Baird ;  General  Joseph 
Lane,  Senator  James  W.  Nesmith ;  General  Joel  Palmer, 
Nathan  W.  Hazen,  Esq.,  Alexander  S.  Abernethy,  C.  P. 
Higgins ;  Judge  James  G.  Swan,  Arthur  A.  Denny ;  Hon. 
El  wood  Evans,  General  James  Tilton. 

My  thanks  are  also  due,  for  facilities  for  examining  and 
copying  records  in  their  departments,  to  the  Hon.  J.  Q. 
Smith,  former  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  and  Hon. 
A.  C.  Towner,  Acting  Commissioner ;  to  General  H. 
C.  Corbin,  Adjutant-General ;  General  John  M.  Wilson, 
Chief  of  Engineers ;  Hon.  John  Hay,  Secretary  of  State ; 
Professor  Henry  L.  Pritchett,  Superintendent  of  the  Coast 
Survey  ;  Lieutenant  Paul  Brodie,  formerly  adjutant  79th 
Highlanders,  for  copying  hundreds  of  pages  of  docu- 
ments in  the  Indian  Office ;  Mr.  R.  F.  Thompson,  of  the 
same  office,  for  assistance  rendered ;  Professor  F.  G. 
Young,  of  Eugene,  Oregon,  for  a  copy  of  Colonel  Law- 
rence Kip's  account  of  the  Walla  Walla  Council,  repub- 
lished by  him. 


SOURCES  OF  INFORMATION 

Savage's  New  England  Genealogies. 

Abiel  Abbott's  History  of  Andover. 

Miss  Sarah  Loring  Bailey's  Historical  Sketches  of  Andover. 

Church  and  town  records  of  Andover. 

Massachusetts  Colonial  Records. 

Family  records  and  correspondence. 

History  of  the  Mexican  War,  by  General  C  M.  Wilcox. 

Campaigns  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  of  Mexico,  by  Major  Isaac  I. 
Stevens. 

General  Stevens's  diary  and  letters  (unpublished). 

His  reports  in  the  Engineer  Bureau  of  the  Army  (unpublished). 

Reports  of  the  Coast  Survey,  Professor  A.  D.  Bache,  for  1850  to 
1853. 

Boston  Post  newspaper,  files  for  1852. 

Pacific  Railroad  Routes  Explorations,  vols.-  i.  and  xii.,  two  parts. 

General  Stevens's  reports  to  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  with 
journals  of  Indian  councils  and  proceedings  in  1854-55  (unpub- 
lished). 

Reports  of  December  22,  1855,  and  January  29,  1856,  in  House 
Document  48,  1st  session,  34th  Congress. 

Reports  of  August  28,  December  5,  1856,  council  at  Fox  Island ; 
October  22,  1856,  second  council  at  WaUa  Walla;  April  30,  1857, 
with  map  and  census  of  Indian  tribes  (unpublished). 

Reports  to  Jefferson  Davis,  Secretary  of  War,  August  15,  Decem- 
ber 21,  1854  ;  February  19,  March  9  and  21,  May  23  (two  letters), 
June  8,  July  7  and  24,  August  14,.  October  22,  November  21  (three 
letters),  1856.     See  documents  of  34th  and  35th  Congresses. 

Reports  and  correspondence  of  General  Wool,  Colonel  George 
Wright,  and  Lieutenant-Colonel  Silas  Casey,  in  said  documents. 

Governor  Stevens's  messages  to  legislature  of  Washington  Terri- 
tory, February  28,  December  5,  1854  ;  January  20,  December,  1856, 
the  latter  accompanied  by  reports  to  the  Secretary  of  War  and  corre- 
spondence with  military  officers  during  the  Indian  war.  See,  also, 
above  documents  and  messages  for  proceedings  relative  to  martial  law. 

Governor  Stevens's  speeches  in  35th  and  36th  Congresses,  in  Con- 
gressional Globe. 


viii  SOURCES  OF  INFORMATION 

General  Joseph  Lane's  speech  in  35th  Congress,  May  13,  1858,  on 
the  Indian  war. 

Three  Years'  Residence  in  Washington  Territory,  by  James  G. 
Swan. 

The  Walla  Walla  Council,  by  Colonel  Lawrence  Kip. 

Account  of  Colonel  Wright's  campaign  against  the  Spokanes,  by 
Colonel  Lawrence  Kip. 

Report  of  J.  Ross  Browne,  Special  Agent,  etc.,  on  the  Indian  war, 
House  Document  58, 1st  session,  35th  Congress. 

History  of  the  Pacific  States,  by  H.  H.  Bancroft,  vols,  xxiv.-xxvi. 

Archives  State  Department. 

Records  War  Department. 

Circular  Letter  to  Emigrants,  The  Northwest,  Letter  to  the  Van- 
couver Railroad  Convention,  by  Governor  Stevens,  published  in 
pamphlet. 

The  War  between  the  States,  by  A.  H.  Stephens. 

War  Records,  vol.  v.,  for  Army  of  the  Potomac  in  1861 ;  vol.  vi., 
for  Port  Royal  Expedition ;  vol.  xiv.,  for  James  Island  campaign ; 
vol.  xii.,  in  three  parts,  for  Pope's  campaign. 

Military  Historical  Society  of  Massachusetts,  vol.  ii.,  entitled  The 
Virginia  Campaign  of  1862  under  General  Pope. 

History  of  the  79th  Highlanders,  by  William  Todd. 

History  of  the  21st  Massachusetts,  by  General  Charles  F.  Walcott. 

Biographical  Register  of  West  Point  Graduates,  by  General  George 
W.  Cullum. 

Defence  of  Charleston  Harbor,  by  Major  John  Johnson. 

Southern  Historical  Society  Papers,  vol.  xvi. 

Official  dispatches  of  Admiral  Dupont. 

Life  of  Charles  Henry  D.avis,  Rear  Admiral. 

Letters  and  statements  from  gentlemen  named  in  the  Preface. 

The  author,  having  sought  his  information  from  original  sources  as 
far  as  possible,  deems  it  unnecessary  to  mention  the  great  number  of 
histories,  regimental  histories,  and  biographies  that  he  has  perused, 
as  they  throw  little  light  on  the  subject,  and  much  of  that  misleading. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  I 

ANCESTRY.  —  BIRTHPLACE 

Isaac  Ingalls  Stevens,  seventh  in  descent  from  John  Stevens,  1, 
one  of  founders  of  Andover,  Mass.,  1640  —  Deacon  Joseph,  2 

—  Captain  James,  3,  captor  of  Louisburg ;  deputy  to  General 
Court  —  Lieutenant  James,  4,  raised  company  for  French  and 
Indian  war ;  died  in  service  ■—  Jonathan,  5,  Revolutionary 
soldier,  Bunker  Hill ;  other  service  ;  characteristics  —  His 
brother  James's  diary  of  siege  of  Boston  —  Isaac,  6,  crippled 
by  falling  tree  ;  marries  Hannah  Cummings,  —  her  ancestry  ; 
hires  Bridges  farm  ;  untiring  industry  and  thrift ;  death  of 
wife  ;  second  marriage  ;  characteristics  ;  children      ....       1 

CHAPTER  II 

BIRTH.  —  BOYHOOD 

Born,  Marble  Ridge  farmhouse,  North  Andover,  Mass.,  March  25, 
1818 — Delicate  child  —  Heroic  treatment  — >■  Incidents  showing 
character  —  Devotion  to  mother  ■ — Her  death  irreparable  loss 

—  Early  schooling  —  Over-study  —  Evil  effects  —  Insists  on 
leaving  school  —  Works  in  factory  a  year  —  Strict  treatment  — 
No  indulgence  —  Injudicious  urging  —  Fever  —  Rupture  from 
over-exertion  —  Seeks  Dr.  Warren  —  Old  Put's  school,  Frank- 
lin Academy  —  Rigorous  daily  life  of  farmer's  boy  —  Phillips 
Academy  —  Appearance  on  entering  —  Earns  board  and  lodg- 
ings with  Nathan  W.  Hazen,  Esq.  —  Takes  first  rank  in 
studies  —  Power  of  concentration  —  Habits  of  study  —  Pro- 
ficiency in  mathematics  —  Protests  against  bigotry  —  Over- 
comes extreme  diffidence  —  Appointed  to  West  Point    .     .     .     13 

CHAPTER  III 

WEST   POINT 

Patriotic  emotions  on  entering  West  Point  —  Determines  to  be 
head  of  his  class  —  Better  prepared  rivals,  Biddle,  Halleck, 


x  CONTENTS 

and  Butler  —  Distinguished  classmates  —  Extra  French  les- 
sons —  Letters  describe  life  and  studies  —  Father  and  uncle 
William  disappointed  at  standing  at  first  examination  — 
Abominates  smoking  and  chewing  —  Early  rising  —  Halleck 
and  Biddle  compare  notes  —  "  Little  Stevens  is  driving  ahead 
like  the  Devil "  —  Gains  first  place  —  Spends  4th  of  July  in 
.  New  York  —  Southern  contempt  for  Yankee  farmers  —  Deter- 
mined to  resent  it  —  Dialectic  Society  —  Second  year  encamp- 
ment—  Military  ball  —  Contrasts  his  situation  with  that  on 
entering  —  Characteristics  drawn  by  Professors  Bartlett  and 
Church  —  Extra  drawing  lessons,  great  gains  —  Admires  Gen- 
eral Miller's  "  I  '11  try,  sir"  — -  Generous  rivalry  —  Eleven  good 
friends' — Visit  home .  ♦.     .     .24 

CHAPTER  IV 

WEST   POINT. LAST   TWO   TEARS 

Appointed  assistant  professor  of  mathematics  —  Leading  part  in 
Dialectic  Society  —  Efforts  at  speaking  —  Reflections  on  studies  ' 
and  authors  —  Long  walks  —  Forbidden  sweets  —  Horseman- 
ship —  Skating  over  thin  ice  —  Saves  companion  from  freezing 

—  Letters  to  father  and  sisters  —  Susan  goes  to  Missouri  — 
Again  head,  third  year  —  Patriotic  indignation  at  British 
aggression  —  Advises  sending  Oliver  to  college  —  Letters  to 
Hannah  and  Oliver  —  Avows  abolition  principles  —  Founds 
"  Talisman  "  —  His  own  anonymous  critic  —  His  intimate 
friends  —  Graduates  first  in  every  branch  —  Parents  attend 
graduation  exercises 48 

CHAPTER  V 

NEWPORT 

Ordered  to  Newport,  R.  I.  — Phrenological  chart  —  Lieutenants 
Mason,  Beauregard,  Hunt  —  Ascendency  over  employees  — 
Newport  society  —  Mr.  Stevens  welcomed  —  Personal  appear- 
ance—  Meets  his  future  wife  —  Benjamin  Hazard  —  Horse- 
back rides  —  Family  mansion  —  Charming  Polly  Wanton  — 
Colonel  Daniel  Lyman  —  German  class  —  Marriage  of  Susan 
to  David  H.  Bishop  —  Death  of  grandmother  —  Urges  addi- 
tional fortifications  —  Proposes  to  study  law  —  Friendly  letter 
from  Halleck— Takes  part  of  Tilden;  of  H.  L.  Smith  — 
Death  of  Hannah  —  Delivers  address  before  Newport  Lyceum 

—  Lecture  on  Oliver  Cromwell  —  Visits  Washington  —  Fair-  ■ 


CONTENTS  xi 

haven  battery  —  Death  of  Susan  —  Death  of  Benjamin  Hazard 

—  Marriage,  September  8,  1841 60 

CHAPTER  VI 

CHARGE    OF  WORKS:   NEW   BEDFORD,    PORTSMOUTH,   PORTLAND, 
BUCKSPORT 

Wedding  journey  to  West  Point  —  Returns  to  Newport  — 
Charge  of  works  at  New.  Bedford  —  Moves  to  Fairhaven  — 
Halleck  asks  aid  for  engineer  corps  —  Journal  —  Thanksgiving 
in  Andover  —  Hazard  born,  June  9  —  Fugitive  slave  harbored 
in  Andover  —  Elizabeth  marries  L.  M.  Campbell  in  Tennessee 

—  Moves  his  family  to  Portsmouth,  N.  H.  —  Charge  of  works 
there  and  Portland,  Me.  —  Pleasant  society  —  Examines  old 
forts  at  Castine  —  Fort  Knox,  on  Penobscot,  buys  land  for  — 
Youthful  appearance  —  Backwoods  uncle,  warm  welcome  — 
Overwork  —  Severe  illness  — Julia  Virginia  born,  June  27, 1844 

—  Visits  Andover  —  Elizabeth  and  Mr.  Campbell  —  Moves  to 
Bucksport  tavern  —  Goes  to  housekeeping  —  New  friends  — 
Assistants,  Richard  Kidder  Randolph,  Isaac  Osgood,  A.  W. 
Tinkham  —  Penobscot  River  —  Barge  —  Pushes  on  works  -— 
Fine  ox-teams  —  Judge  of  men  —  Severe  sickness  in  winter  — 
Visits  Washington  —  Obtains  large  appropriations  —  Confiden- 
tial inquiry  if  he  desires  promotion  —  Characteristic  reply  — 
Delighted  in  dispensing  hospitality  —  Daughter  Julia  Vir- 
ginia died,  December  7,  1845  —  Beautiful  tribute  by  Mr. 
Brooks  —  Organizes  course  of  lectures  —  Salmon  weir  —  Ad- 
vocates engineer  company  —  Enlists  first  soldier  —  Views  on 
raising  standard  of  rank  and  file  —  Ordered  to  Mexican  war 

—  Speeds  to  Boston  by  sleigh 78 

CHAPTER  VII 

VOYAGE   TO   MEXICO 

Placed  in  charge  of  pontoon  and  engineer  train  —  Delays  in  em- 
barking —  Visits  from  relatives  —  Death  of  Elizabeth  —  Let- 
ters to  wife  —  Sails  on  barque  Prompt,  January  19,  1847  — 
Diary  of  voyage  —  Seasickness  —  Warm  weather  —  Passes  Ba- 
hamas, Great  Abaco,  Hole  in  the  Wall,  Berry  Island,  Black 
Chief  —  Steward  commits  suicide  —  The  weather  in  the  Gulf 

—  Arrives  at  the  Brazos  —  Meets  officers  —  Great  confusion 

—  Sails  to  Tampico,  beautiful,  picturesque  region  —  Landing 

at  Vera  Cruz,  March  9  and  10  ...... 96 


xii  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  VIII 

VERA  CRUZ.  —  CERRO  GORDO 

Vera  Cruz  —7  Defenses  —  American  army  invests  city  —  Lieu- 
tenant Stevens's  zeal  in  reconnoitring  —  Hands  torn  and  poi- 
soned —  Horse  bolts  to  enemy's  lines  —  Throws  himself  from 
saddle  —  Looks  out  route  for  covered  way  —  Put  in  charge 
with  large  working  parties  —  Volunteers  —  Independent  ways 

—  Diary  of  siege  —  Capture  of  city  —  Damage  by  artillery 
fire  —  "  Moonlight  magnificence  and  sunlight  squalidity  "  — 
Secures  fine  horse  —  Appointed  adjutant  of  engineer  corps  — 
Diary  of  march  to  Cerro  Gordo  —  National  Bridge  —  Ranch- 
eros  —  Reconnoissances  of  Cerro  Gordo  —  Disabled  by  rupture 

—  Compelled  to  remain  in  camp  —  Description  of  battle  — 
Letter  to  wife 110 

CHAPTER  IX 

JALAPA.  —  PUEBLA 

Prisoners  released  on  parole  —  March  for  Jalapa  —  Encerro, 
Santa  Anna's  country  seat  —  Reaches  Jalapa,  Eden  of  Mexico 

—  Prepares  memoir  on  conducting  war  against  guerrillas  — 
Letters  to  wife  —  Feeling  address  at  burial  of  Sapper  Carigan 

—  March  from  Jalapa  to  Puebla  —  Beautiful  country  —  Sol- 
dado  —  Pass  of  La  Hora  —  Las  Vegas  —  Perote,  its  plain 
and  castle  —  Leaves   Perote   with   Colonel   Clarke's   brigade 

—  San  Antonio  —  Tepe  Ahualco  with  General  Worth  and 
Garland's  brigade  —  Hacienda  of  Virayes  —  Byzantium  — • 
Ojo  de  Agua  —  Hacienda  Santa  Annaced  —  Nopalucan  — 
El  Pinal  — Acajete  —  Amasoque  —  Column  of  lancers  threaten 
attack  —  Sheer  off  at  fire  of  Duncan's  battery  in  two  bodies  — 
Lieutenants  Stevens  and  McClellan  pursue  one  for  five  miles 
« —  Puebla  occupied  —  Health  improved  —  Reports  for  duty  — 
Reconnoitres  road  to  Tlascala  —  Examines  position  in  city  — 
Generals  Scott  and  Twiggs  arrive  —  Santa  Anna  renounces 
power  —  His  career  and  character  —  Attends  church  —  Bull 
fight  —  Army  recruiting  strength  —  Drilling  —  Awaiting  rein- 
forcements —  Engineers  making  maps  —  Collecting  informa- 
tion —  Wealthy  Mexican  offers  to  act  as  spy  —  Dominguez, 
robber  chief,  with  some  of  his  band,  employed  as  spies  and 
couriers  —  Submits  memoir  on  system  of  espionage  and  em- 
ploying robbers  —  Rumors  —  Guerrillas    invest    El    Pinal  — 


CONTENTS  xiii 

Colonel  Harney  marches  to  disperse  them  —  Arrival  of  volun- 
teers —  Review  —  Sorry  appearance — Good  material  —  Heavy 
defenses  and  eighteen  thousand  troops  at  City  of  Mexico  — 
Character  of  Mexican  governing  class  —  Letters  to  wife  — 
Description  of  Puebla  —  Climate  —  People  —  Confidence  of 
the  troops  —  Character  of  General  Scott  —  Arrival  of  General 
Pierce 129 

CHAPTER   X 

ADVANCE   TO   MEXICO,   EL   PENON,    CONTRERAS,   CHURUBUSCO 

Advance  to  valley  of  Mexico  —  Description  of  defenses  —  Gen- 
eral Scott  and  staff  with  Twiggs's  division  reach  Ayotla  — 
Daring  reconnoissances  of  El  Penon  by  Lieutenant  Stevens  — 
March  around  Lakes  Chalco  and  Xochimilco  —  Occupy  San 
Augustin  —  Reconnoissances  of  enemy's  positions  —  San  An- 
tonio road  strongly  fortified  —  Pedregal  —  Intrenched  camp 
at  Contreras  —  Battle  of  Contreras  —  Lieutenant  Stevens 
urges  decisive  movement  adopted  by  Twiggs  —  "  Attack  the 
enemy's  left ;  you  cut  him  off  from  reinforcements  and  hurl 
him  into  the  gorges  of  the  mountains  "  —  Stormy  night  —  Dis- 
couragement —  Scene  at  Scott's  headquarters  —  Second  day's 
battle  —  Reconnoitring  from  church  steeple  at  Coyoacan  — 
Enemy  in  full  retreat  on  San  Antonio  road  —  Instant  ad- 
vance by  Twiggs,  led  by  Lieutenant  Stevens,  who  comes  up 
against  fortified  convent  and  brings  on  battle  of  Churubusco  — 
Description  of  battle  —  Terrible  scenes  of  battlefield  banished 
sleep  —  Letter  to  wife  —  Tacubaya  occupied  —  Armistice  .     .163 

CHAPTER  XI 

MOLINO  DEL  REY. CHAPULTEPEC.  —  CAPTURE  OF  CITY  OF   MEXICO. 

RETURN   TO   UNITED    STATES 

General  Scott  and  staff  enter  Tacubaya  —  Take  quarters  in  Bish- 
op's Palace  —  Commissioners  to  negotiate  peace  —  Mexican 
treachery  —  Armistice  terminated  —  Battle  of  Molino  del  Rey 

—  Useless  attacks  —  Severe  losses  —  Battle  of  Chapultepec  — 
Castle  stormed —  Quitman  advances  on  Tacubaya  causeway  — 
Worth  on  San  Cosme  causeway  —  Lieutenant  Stevens,  with 
Worth,  wounded  —  Enemy  retreat  in  night  —  American  troops 
occupy  city  —  Lieutenant  Stevens's  remarks  on  the  movements 

—  His  character  sketches  of  Lee,  Beauregard,  Tower,  Smith, 
McClellan,  Foster,  Mason  —  Removed  to  city  —  quartered  in 


XIV 


CONTENTS 


the  Palace  —  Severe  wound  —  Ups  and  downs  —  Mounts 
crutches  —  Journeys  in  ambulance  with  Lieutenant  Foster  to 
Puebla — Arrives  at  New  Orleans 202 

CHAPTER  XII 

HEROES   HOME    FROM   THE   WAR 

Proceeds  to  Washington  —  Flattering  reception  —  Gives  full  ac- 
counts to  Colonel  Totten  —  Joyful  reunion  with  family  in  New- 
port —  Shoots  mad  dog  —  Ordered  to  Savannah  —  Letter  to 
brother  —  Character  of  Cromwell  —  Makes  garden  —  Justice 
of  Mexican  war  —  Savannah  orders  countermanded  —  Re- 
sumes works  at  Bucksport  —  Purchases  house,  garden,  poultry 

—  Characteristic  reply  to  inquiry  as  to  willingness  to  be  sent 
to  Pacific  coast  —  Brevetted  captain  and  major  —  Efforts  to 
secure  justice  for  brother  officers  —  Opinion  of  General  Taylor 

—  Brevet  pay  —  McClellan  asks  assistance  for  engineer  com- 
pany —  Lieutenant  Stevens's  views  —  Advocates  reorganization 

of  the  army 226 

CHAPTER  XIII 

COAST   SURVEY 

Professor  A.  D.  Bache  tenders  charge  of  Coast  Survey  office  — Ac- 
cepts conditionally  —  Retains  charge  of  works  —  Assumes  new 
duties  —  Estimate  of  General  Taylor —  Magnitude  of  Coast  Sur- 
vey Office  —  Organizes  the  force  —  Reforms  the  office  —  Meets 
"  men  of  Mexico  "  —  General  Shields  —  Approves  compromise 
measures  —  Puritan  father  condemns  Webster  —  Visits  Bucks- 
port  —  Daughter  Gertrude  Maude  born  —  Wound  breaks  out 
afresh  —  Contemplates  leaving  Coast  Survey  - —  Moves  family 
to  Newport  —  Pays  $400  on  house  —  Generous  in  money  mat- 
ters —  Spends  summer  in  Washington  —  Letters  to  his  wife  — 
Ideals  of  woman,  marriage,  duty,  ambition  —  Admiration  for 
Henry  Clay,  the  master  spirit  —  Compromise  measures  passed 

—  Fine  health  —  Carries  appropriation  —  Truth  and  direct- 
ness superior  to  low  cunning  —  Office  improving,  duties  more 
pleasant  daily  —  Publishes  Campaigns  of  Rio  Grande  and  of 
Mexico  —  General  Scott  takes  offense 241 

CHAPTER  XIV 

LIFE   IN  WASHINGTON 

Moves  family  to  Washington  —  Pleasant  society  —  Takes  hold 
Fourteen  Years'  Bill  —  Reorganization  of  army  —  Urges  bro- 


CONTENTS  xy 

ther  officers  to  do  "  their  duty  to  their  profession  "  —  Army 
man,  not  a  corps  man  —  Moves  to  Mrs.  Janney's,  on  8th  Street 

—  Takes  family  to  Newport  for  summer,  1851  —  Another 
phrenological  chart  —  Rents  house  on  3d  Street  and  goes  to 
housekeeping  —  George  Watson  Stevens  —  Letters  to  wife  — 
Responds  to  toast  of  Army  and  Navy  at  banquet  to  Kossuth  — 
Advocates  coast  defenses,  and  writes  articles  —  Appointed  mem- 
ber of  Lighthouse  Board  —  Sells  Bucksport  house  —  Advocates 
election  of  General  Franklin  Pierce  as  President  —  Articles  in 
"  Boston  Post  "  —  Speeches  in  Andover,  Newport,  and  Ports- 
mouth —  Taken  to  task  by  Secretary  of  War  Conrad  —  Pun- 
gent reply  —  Leader  among  young  officers  —  Numerous  calls 

—  Friendship  with  Professor  Bache  —  Continued  improvement 

of  Coast  Survey  Office 257 

CHAPTER  XV 

GOVERNOR,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. — EXPLORATION,  NORTHERN 

ROUTE 

Washington  Territory  organized  —  Exploration  of  routes  to  Pa- 
cific determined  on  —  Appointed  governor  —  Letter  of  resig- 
nation from  army  —  Colonel  Totten's  reply  —  Silver  service 
presented  by  friends  on  the  Coast  Survey  —  Obtains  charge  of 
exploration  of  Northern  route  —  Takes  high  ground  —  Im- 
presses his  views  on  the  administration  —  Applies  for  Captain 
McClellan  —  Letter  to  him  —  Sends  Lieutenant  Donelson  to 
Montreal  to  procure  maps  and  data  from  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany —  Prepares  his  own  instructions  —  Magnitude  of  task  — 
Organizes  the  expedition  —  Gives  McClellan  charge  of  con- 
struction of  the  military  road,  Steilacoom  to  Walla  Walla  — 
Declares  independence  of  Hudson  Bay  Company  —  Busy 
scenes  in  3d  Street  house  —  Sends  officers  to  San  Francisco, 
St.  Louis,  and  St.  Paul  to  hasten  preparation  —  Selects  terri- 
torial library  —  Exploration  fully  reported  in  vols.  i.  and  xii., 
Pacific  Railroad  Reports 280 

CHAPTER  XVI 

THE   PARTY.  —  THE  START 

Leaves  Washington  —  Expedites  matters  in  St.  Louis  —  Dis- 
patches party  up  Missouri  —  Up  Mississippi  to  St.  Paul  — 
Rouses  party  in  camp  before  breakfast  —  Breaking  mules  — 
Incessant  rains  —  Roster  of  the  party  —  General  plan  —  March 


xvi  CONTENTS 

to  Sauk  River  —  Winnebago  Indians  —  Canadian  voyageurs 
—  Pierre  Boutineau — Camp  regulations  —  Assimilated  rank  — 
All  to  stand  guard  —  Pembina  train  —  Pushing  on  detached 
parties  —  March  to  Pike  Lake  —  Swollen  streams,  bogs  — 
Crossing  Sauk  and  Crow  rivers  —  Lightning  Lake  —  Fish  and 
game  —  Relieves  Lieutenant  Du  Barry  —  Discharges  inefficient 
men  —  White  Bear  Lake  —  Parties  reassemble  at  Pike  Lake  .  302 

CHAPTER  XVII 

PIKE    LAKE   TO   FORT   UNION 

General  course  W.  10°  N.  —  Lieutenant  Grover  surveys  separate 
route  —  Country  within  forty  miles  examined  by  side  trips  — 
Route  passes  near  Breckinridge,  Jamestown,  Minot,  and  Great 
Northern  Railroad  nearly  to  Rocky  Mountains  —  Crosses  Chip- 
pewa River  —  Camp  regulations  —  Bois  de  Sioux  —  Descrip- 
tion of  country  —  Red  River  hunters  —  Sheyenne  River  — 
Lander's  adventure  —  False  alarm  of  Indians  —  Myriads  of 
buffalo  —  The  hunt  —  Lake  Jessie  —  Buffalo  threaten  camp ; 
stop  train  —  Horse  and  mules  go  off  with  buffalo  —  Governor 
Stevens  disabled  —  Lander  returns  —  Inveterate  horse-killer  — 
James  River  —  Anxiety  at  non-return  of  Tinkham  —  Guns 
fired  —  Parties  sent  back  to  find  him  —  Sioux  reported  ap- 
proaching —  Train  arranged  for  defense  —  Red  River  hunt- 
ers —  Tinkham  returns  safe  —  Governor  Wilkie  and  Red 
River  hunters  —  Customs  —  Hunts  —  Government  —  Air 
tainted  by  slaughtered  buffalo  —  Maison  du  Chien  —  Coteau 
de  Missouri  —  Mouse  River  —  More  Red  River  hunters  — 
Exchange  visits  —  Express  dispatched  to  Fort  Union  —  As- 
siniboine  Indians  —  Council  —  Distribution  of  presents  —  Ar- 
rives at  Fort  Union 320 

CHAPTER   XVIII 

FORT  UNION  TO   FORT   BENTON 

Description  of  Fort  Union  —  Alexander  Culbertson  —  The  Black- 
feet  —  Making  peace  —  Surveys  by  side  parties  —  Bugbear 
stories  —  Moving  westward  —  Blackfoot  war  party  —  Big 
Muddy  —  Missouri  bottom  —  Every  one  ordered  to  walk  part 
way  daily  —  Milk  River  —  Field  order  —  Abundant  game  — 
Gros  Ventres  —  Feast  and  council  —  Feud  with  Blackf eet  — 
Peace  made  between  them  —  Trading  horses  —  Cypress  Moun- 
tain—  Stories  of  Indian  fights  —  Bear's  Paw  Mountains  — 


CONTENTS  xvii 

Party  sent  to  view  them  —  Box  Elder  Creek  —  The  Three 
Buttes,  favorite  resort  of  Blackfeet  —  Crosses  Marias  and 
Teton  rivers  —  Scene  of  bloody  Indian  conflict  —  Fort  Benton 

—  Fort  Campbell 347 

CHAPTER  XIX 

WIDESPREAD   EXPLORING   PARTIES 

Gathering  information  —  Lieutenant  Grover  to  Bitter  Root  val- 
ley —  Lieutenant  Mullan  to  Muscle  Shell  River  —  Lieutenant 
Donelson  to  examine  Cadotte's  Pass  —  Mr.  Lander  to  Marias 
Pass  —  George  W.  Stevens  describes  outfitting  war  parties  — 
Funds  fall  short  —  Governor  Stevens  takes  responsibility  of 
incurring  deficiency  —  Starts  to  visit  main  Blackf  oot  camp  — 
Chiefs  join  the  party  —  Culbertson's  defense  of  Fort  McKen- 
zie  —  Death  of  Rotten  Belly  —  Reaches  Marias  River  —  Ex- 
press brings  report  from  Lieutenant  Saxton  that  mountains 
are  impassable  for  wagons  —  Returns  to  Fort  Benton  —  Lander 
ordered  back  —  Want  of  harmony  in  his  party  —  Stanley  pro- 
ceeds to  Piegan  camp  —  Lieutenants  Saxton  and  Grover  meet 
on  summit  of  Rocky  Mountains  —  Tinkham  returns  from  Three 
Buttes  and  Marias  River  —  Outfitting  with  pack  animals  — 
Lieutenant  Saxton,  with  Culbertson  and  twenty-eight  men,  de- 
scends Missouri  in  keelboat  —  Doty  stationed  at  Fort  Benton 

—  Lander's  insubordination  curbed  —  Stanley  returns  with 
thirty  chiefs  —  Talk  with  Blackfeet  —  Their  dress  —  Peace 
advocated  —  Chief  Low  Horn  —  His  good  faith 364 

CHAPTER  XX 

EXPLORING   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS 

Lieutenants  Saxton  and  Grover  start  down  the  Missouri  —  March 
up  the  Teton  via  Sun  and  Dearborn  rivers  to  Cadotte's  Pass  — 
Description  of  country  ;  game  —  Governor  Stevens  proclaims 
inauguration  of  civil  government  on  summit  of  Rocky  Moun- 
tains —  Descending  western  slope  —  Big  Blackf  oot  and  Hell 
Gate  rivers  —  Overtakes  main  party  —  Fine  condition  of  ani- 
mals —  Bitter  Root  valley  and  river  —  Fort  Owen  —  Lieuten- 
ant Arnold  here  with  train  and  provisions  —  Nine  passes  ex- 
amined —  Lander's  erratic  course  —  Council  with  Flatheads  — 
Chief  Victor  —  Lieutenant  Mullan  stationed  at  winter  post  in 
Bitter  Root  valley  —  Lieutenant  Donelson  with  main  party 
sent  via  Clark's  Fork  and  Pend   Oreille  Lake  —  Dr.   Suck- 


xviii  CONTENTS 

ley  descends  rivers  in  canoe  —  Tinkham  to  explore  Marias 
Pass  —  Proceed  to  Fort  Benton  —  Cross  mountains  to  Walla 
Walla  —  Governor  Stevens  moves  down  the  Bitter  Root  — 
Meets  the  Nez  Perces  —  Crosses  the  Cceur  d'Alene  Mountains 

—  Cceur  d'Alene  Mission  —  Indians  —  Lake  —  Falls  —  Spo- 
kane Indians  —  Spokane  Garry,  head  chief  —  Forced  ride  to 
Colville  —  Meeting  with  McClellan  —  His  explorations  — 
Dilatoriness  —  Reports  against  country  and  passes     ....  375 

CHAPTER  XXI 

UPPER  COLUMBIA  TO  PUGET  SOUND 

McDonald's  Indian  tales  —  Chemakan  Mission  —  Settlements  in 
Colville  valley  —  Visits  Spokane  House  —  Garry's  Lodge  — 
Arrival  of  main  party  at  Camp  Washington  —  March  to  Walla 
Walla  —  Pelouse  River  —  Crosses  Snake  River  —  Rides  to  old 
Fort  Walla  Walla  —  Visits  Walla  Walla  valley  —  Pu-pu-mox- 
mox  —  Lander  ordered  to  survey  Nahchess  Pass  —  Descends 
Columbia  to  Dallas,  to  Vancouver  —  Colonel  Bonneville  — 
Ascends  Cowlitz  River  in  canoe  —  Four  days  in  drenching  rains 

—  Lander  balks  —  Tinkham  ordered  to  cross  Snoqualmie  Pass 

—  Officers  reach  Olympia  —  Captain  McClellan  ordered  to 
run  line  to  Snoqualmie  Pass  —  His  failure  —  Tinkham  suc- 
ceeds —  McClellan  aggrieved  —  Governor  Stevens's  opinion  of 
pioneers  —  McClellan's 396 

CHAPTER  XXII 

ORGANIZING   CIVIL    GOVERNMENT. THE   INDIAN   SERVICE 

Wild  country  —  Scanty  population  —  Character  of  settlers  — 
Serious  problems  —  Governor  Stevens  arrives  at  Olympia  — 
Issues  proclamation  —  Organizes  Indian  service  —  Appoints 
agents  —  Visits  all  parts  of  Sound  —  Meets  Governor  Douglass 
at  Victoria,  B.  C.  —  Reports  on  Hudson  Bay  Company's  claims 

—  First  message  —  Halleck  exposes  Southern  political  schemes 

—  Purchases  homestead  —  Preparing  exploration  reports  — 
Secretary  Davis  stops  further  surveys  —  Drafts  protested   .     .  411 

CHAPTER  XXIII 

RETURN   TO   WASHINGTON.  —  REPORT   OF  EXPLORATION 

Warm  welcome  in  San  Francisco  —  Lectures  on  Northern  route 

—  Advocates  three  routes  —  Via  Isthmus  to  New  York  —  Joy- 


CONTENTS  xix 

ful  family  reunion  in  Newport  —  Proceeds  to  Washington  — 
Complete  report  of  exploration  —  Deficiency  provided  for  — 
General  Hunt  relates  incident  —  Secretary  Davis  disparages 
Northern  route  —  General  Stevens's  rejoinder  —  His  final  re- 
port —  Severe  labors  —  Sickness  —  Doing  the  work  of  the  dele- 
gate—  Appointed  commissioner  to  treat  with  Blackfeet  and 
other  tribes  —  Unimpaired  influence 425 

CHAPTER  XXIV 

CROSSING   THE   ISTHMUS 

Steamer  from  New  York  —  Riotous  scenes  —  Stops  at  Havana  — 
Aspinwall  —  Forlorn  place  —  Cars  to  the  summit  —  Carusi's 
pavilion  —  Scene  at  night  —  Proceeds  on  mule-back  —  Tropic 
rainstorms  —  Crossing  the  Chagres  River  —  Lost  children  — 
Panama  —  Embarks  on  Golden  Age  —  Touches  at  Acapulco 

—  Panama  fever  —  Reaches  San  Francisco  —  Welcomed  by 
friends  —  Delayed  by  sickness  —  Rebuke  to  General  Wool  — 
Steamer  up  the  coast  —  Into  Columbia  —  Lands  at  Vancouver 

—  Canoe  trip  up  Cowlitz  River  —  Muddy  roads  to  Olympia 

—  Disappointing  appearance  —  Second  message 433 

CHAPTER  XXV 

INDIAN   POLICY. — TREATIES   ON   PUGET   SOUND 

Beneficent  Indian  policy  —  Intention  to  write  account  of  his  In- 
dian service  frustrated  by  early  death —  Indians  of  Puget  Sound, 
helpless,  ready  to  treat  —  Organizes  treaty  force  —  Decides  on 
policy  and  terms  —  Sends  agents  to  assemble  Indians  —  Great 
pains  to  make  them  fully  understand  and  to  consult  with  them 
■ —  Council  and  treaty  of  She-nah-nam  or  Medicine  Creek  ;  of 
Point  Elliott  or  Mukilteo ;  of  Point-no-Point ;  of  Neah  Bay  — 
Speeches  —  Visits  Victoria,  and  calls  on  Governor  Douglass  to 
restrain  Northern  Indians  —  Napoleonic  campaign  —  What 
was  accomplished  —  Present  condition  of  the  Indians     .     .     .  448 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 


General  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  at  the  age  of  43,  from  a  photograph 

Frontispiece. 

Grave  of  John  Stevens to  face  page      2 

Birthplace  of  General  Stevens,  Andover,  Mass 14 

Infant  Jesus.     Crayon  drawing  at  West  Point 44 

Old  Wanton  Mansion  in  Newport 66 

General  Stevens  at  the  age  of  23,  from  a  miniature  by  Staigg      .     74 
Margaret  Lyman  Stevens,  from  a  miniature  by  Staigg  .     .     .     .76 

Low  Horn,  Piegan  Chief 374 

Charles  H.  Mason,  Secretary  of  the  Territory,  from  a  photo- 
graph     414 


MAPS  AND  PLANS 

Route,  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico 118 

Battle  of  Cerro  Gordo 124 

The  Valley  of  Mexico 162 

Battlefields  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico  —  Contreras,  Churubusco, 
Chapultepec,  Molino  del  Rey,  Mexico 172 


THE  LIFE 

OF 

ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 


CHAPTER  I 

ANCESTRY. BIRTHPLACE 

About  1640  a  mere  handful  of  English  colonists  went 
out  from  Boston,  and  made  the  first  settlement  in  the 
town  of  Andover,  Essex  County,  Massachusetts.  They 
laid  out  their  homes  on  the  Cochichewick,  a  stream  which 
flows  out  of  the  Great  Pond  in  North  Andover,  and  falls 
into  the  Merrimac  River  on  the  south  side  a  few  miles 
below  Lawrence.  The  infant  settlement  was  known  as 
Cochichewick  until  1646,  when  it  was  incorporated  as  a 
town  under  its  present  name,  after  the  Andover  in  Hamp- 
shire, England,  the  birthplace  of  some  of  the  settlers. 

Among  the  first  who  thus  planted  their  hearthstones 
in  the  wilderness  was  John  Stevens.  His  name  stands 
fifth  in  an  old  list  in  the  town  records  containing  "  the 
names  of  all  the  householders  in  order  as  they  came  to 
town."  The  mists  of  the  past  still  allow  a  few  glimpses 
of  this  sturdy  Puritan  settler.  He  was  admitted  a  free- 
man of  the  colony,  June  2,  1641  (Old  Style).  He  was 
appointed  by  the  General  Court,  May  15,  1654,  one  of  a 
committee  of  three  to  settle  the  boundary  between  the 
towns  of  Haverhill  and  Salisbury,  a  duty  satisfactorily 
performed.  He  was  sergeant  in  the  military  company  of 
the  town,  a  post  then  equivalent  to  captain  or  commander. 
According  to  Savage,  N.  E.  Genealogies,  vol.  i.,  p.  186, 


2  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

John  Stevens  lived  at  Caversham,  County  Oxford,  Eng- 
land, and  came  to  America  in  the  Confidence  from  South- 
ampton in  1638. 

Large,  substantial  head  and  foot  stones  of  slate,  sculp- 
tured and  lettered  in  the  quaint  fashion  of  his  day,  still 
mark  the  resting-place  of  John  Stevens,  after  the  storms 
of  now  two  and  a  third  centuries,  in  the  oldest  grave- 
yard of  Cochichewick,  situated  opposite  the  Kittredge 
mansion,  and  about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  old  parish 
meeting-house  in  North  Andover.  He  died  April  11, 
1662,  in  the  fifty-seventh  year  of  his  age,  and  was  there- 
fore thirty-five  years  old  when  he  founded  his  future 
home.  John  Stevens  was  evidently  a  man  of  note  and 
substance,  the  worthy  progenitor  of  a  prolific  family, 
which  has  filled  Andover  with  his  descendants,  and  put 
forth  from  time  to  time  strong,  flourishing  branches  into 
all  quarters  of  the  country.  It  may  indeed  be  safely 
said  that  there  is  scarely  a  State  in  the  Union  which 
does  not  contain  descendants  of  this  sturdy  Puritan. 

His  son  Nathan,  the  first  male  child  born  in  Andover, 
lies  buried  near  him  under  a  broad  freestone  slab  with 
an  inscription  to  "  Counclr  Nathan  Stevens,  who  deceased 
February  ye  19, 1717,  in  ye  75  year  of  his  age."  The  me- 
morials of  many  others  of  his  descendants  stand  thickly 
scattered  through  the  quaint  old  burial-ground.  Not  the 
least  interesting  of  these  relics  is  a  stone  "  In  memory 
of  Primus,  who  was  a  faithful  servant  of  Mr.  Benjamin 
Stevens,  Jr.,  who  died  July  25,  1792,  aged  72  years,  5 
months,  and  16  days." 

A  vigorous,  long-lived  race  sprang  from  the  loins  of 
this  first  settler  John,  a  hardy,  thrifty  race  of  plain  New 
England  farmers,  honest  and  straightforward,  with  plenty 
of  solid,  shrewd  good  sense,  bearing  manfully  the  toils 
and  hardships  of  colonial  days,  and  contributing  its 
quota  of  ministers  and  deacons  to  the  church,  and  offi- 


HkiJs 


-JC:V'    '"*■' 


GRAVE   OF   JOHN   STEVENS 


BIRTHPLACE  3 

cers  and  soldiers  to  the  wars  with  the  Indians  and  the 
French.  In  1679  a  grant  of  land  was  made  to  Ephraim 
Stevens,  son  of  the  first  settler,  in  recompense  of  his 
losses  by  the  Indians.  In  1689  Lieutenant  John  Stevens, 
another  son,  perished  in  the  expedition  against  Louis- 
burg.  In  1698  Abiel  Stevens,  a  grandson,  was  captured 
by  the  Indians,  but  made  his  escape.  In  1755  Captain 
Asa  Stevens  and  Ensign  James  Stevens  died  in  the  Lake 
George  campaign.  Upon  the  state  muster-rolls  appear  the 
names  of  twelve  Stevenses  of  Andover  as  soldiers  in  the 
Revolution. 

The  subject  of  this  work,  Isaac  Ingalls  Stevens,  was 
the  seventh  in  direct  descent  from  John  Stevens,  the 
founder  of  Andover,  —  1  John  Stevens,  2  Joseph,  3  James, 
4  James,  5  Jonathan,  6  Isaac,  7  Isaac  Ingalls  Stevens. 

Joseph  was  the  fourth  son  of  the  first  settler  John. 
He  was  deacon  in  the  church.  He  married  Mary  Ingalls 
May  20,  1679,  and  died  February  25,  1743,  aged  88. 

James  was  the  second  son  of  Joseph,  married  Dorothy 
Fry,  March,  1712,  and  died  May  25,  1769,  aged  84. 
He  participated  in  the  military  affairs  and  contests  with 
the  Indians  and  French  of  his  times,  commanded  a  com- 
pany at  the  capture  of  Louisburg,  and  for  his  services 
was  granted  a  tract  of  land  in  Maine.  He  was  a  deputy 
to  the  General  Court.  His  gravestone  bears  the  title  of 
captain. 

Captain  James's  eldest  son  was  also  named  James.  He 
was  born  in  1720,  and  married  Sarah  Peabody  in  1745. 
This  James  was  an  energetic,  promising  young  man,  with 
a  young  wife  and  two  boys,  when  in  1754  a  recruiting 
party  with  colors,  drum,  and  fife  went  about  Andover 
beating  up  recruits  for  the  French  and  Indian  war  then 
raging.  The  young  men  all  hung  back.  "  Make  me  a 
captain,"  said  James  Stevens,  "and  I  will  raise  a  company 
for  the  war."     This  remark  led  to  his  receiving  the  com- 


4  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

mission  of  ensign.  He  raised  a  company  of  the  young 
men  of  Andover,  and  marched  away  at  their  head  to  the 
shores  of  Lake  George,  in  New  York,  where,  November  28, 
1755,  he  died  of  camp  fever,  with  the  rank  of  lieutenant. 
His  eldest  son,  Jonathan,  inherited  a  due  share  of  his 
father's  spirit,  for  we  find  him  hastening  to  Bunker  Hill, 
and  fighting  manfully  in  the  battle.  He  served  on  other 
occasions  during  the  Revolutionary  war,  and  after  a  suc- 
cessful dash  upon  the  enemy  writes  the  following  inter- 
esting letter  to  his  sister  :  — 

Loving  Sister,  —  These  will  inform  you  that  I  am  very 
well  at  present,  and  have  been  so  ever  since  I  came  from  home, 
and  I  hope  you  and  all  my  friends  enjoy  the  same  state  of 
health. 

We  have  been  up  to  Ticonderoga  and  took  almost  four  hun- 
dred prisoners  of  the  British  Army,  and  relieved  one  hundred 
of  our  men  that  were  prisoners  there. 

Our  army  have  come  from  Ticonderoga  down  as  far  as  Paw- 
let,  about  sixty  miles,  and  expect  to  march  to  Stillwater  very 
soon.     So  no  more  at  present. 

I  remain,  Your  Loving  Brother, 

Jonathan  Stevens. 

Pawlet,  October  ye  1st,  1777. 

Jonathan  married  Susannah  Bragg,  December  15, 
1773,  and  raised  thirteen  children,  —  Jonathan,  Susan- 
nah, James,  Dolly,  Jeremy,  Hannah,  Isaac,  Nathaniel, 
Dolly,  Moses,  Sarah,  Oliver,  and  William. 

He  united  the  business  of  a  currier  and  tanner  to  his 
ancestral  pursuit  of  farming,  and  achieved  the  modest 
independence  he  so  well  merited.  The  house  that  he 
occupied  for  many  years  stood  on  the  old  road  that 
passed  along  the  western  border  of  the  Cochichewick 
meadows,  that  were  long  since  flooded  and  converted 
into  a  lake,  the  extension  of  the  Great  Pond,  for  the 
water  supply  of  the  woolen  mills  of  his  son  Nathaniel, 
and  the  cellar  is  still  visible  on  the  west  side  of  the  road, 


BIRTHPLACE  5 

some  three  hundred  yards  from  its  junction  with  the 
road  from  the  village  of  North  Andover  to  the  mills. 
He  afterwards  built  one  of  those  large,  square,  sub- 
stantial mansions,  once  common  in  New  England,  on  the 
crest  of  the  high  ground  east  of  the  village,  and  com- 
manding noble  views  of  the  hamlet,  the  Great  Pond,  and 
the  Cochichewick  valley  and  the  mills.  This  house  was 
unfortunately  destroyed  by  fire  in  1876. 

Jonathan  Stevens  purchased,  for  sixpence  an  acre,  a 
large  tract  of  land  in  Maine,  which  he  divided  into  three 
farms,  and  bestowed  upon  his  sons  Jonathan,  James,  and 
Isaac.  They  settled,  and  named  the  place  Andover,  after 
their  native  town,  and  the  descendants  of  the  two  former 
still  reside  there. 

Jonathan  Stevens  was  a  tall,  large  man  of  fresh,  ruddy 
complexion  and  fine  appearance.  He  was  fond  of  relating 
the  incidents  of  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  and  used  to 
recount  the  tale  to  his  children  and  grandchildren  every 
Fourth  of  July,  —  how  Putnam  went  along  the  line  and 
commanded  them  not  to  fire  until  they  could  see  the 
whites  of  the  Redcoats'  eyes ;  and  how  Abbot,  the  strong- 
est man  in  town,  bore  a  wounded  comrade  off  the  field  on 
his  back.  On  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  he  invariably 
invited  his  comrades  in  the  fight  to  his  house,  and  enter- 
tained them  with  New  England  rum  and  hearty,  old- 
fashioned  hospitality,  while  the  veterans  fought  the  battle 
o'er  again.  He  sat  among  the  veterans  of  the  battle 
at  Webster's  magnificent  oration  in  dedication  of  the 
Bunker  Hill  monument.  On  his  eighty-fourth  birthday 
he  worked  with  his  men  in  the  hay-field,  keeping  up 
with  the  best  all  day,  and  suffered  no  ill  effect  from  the 
unwonted  exertion.  He  died  April  13,  1834,  at  the  age 
of  eighty-seven.  In  1799  he  gave  the  tract  of  land  upon 
which  was  erected  Franklin  Academy,  on  the  hill  north 
of  the  meeting-house. 


6  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Jonathan's  brother  James,  Captain  James's  other  son, 
also  served  in  the  Revolutionary  war,  and  left  a  diary 
of  the  siege  of  Boston,  recently  discovered  in  the  garret 
of  an  old  mansion  in  Andover,  which  opens  like  an 
epic :  — 

"  April  ye  19,  1775.  This  morning  about  seven  o'clock  we 
had  a  larum  that  the  Regulars  were  gone  to  Concord.  We 
gathered  to  the  meeting  house,  and  then  started  for  Concord. 
We  went  through  Tewksbury  into  Billerica.  We  stopped  at 
Pollard's,  and  ate  some  biscuits  and  cheese  on  the  common. 
We  started  and  went  on  to  Bedford,  and  we  heard  that  the 
Regulars  had  gone  back  to  Boston.  So  we  went  through  Bed- 
ford. As  we  went  into  Lexington  we  went  to  the  meeting 
house,  and  there  we  came  to  the  destruction  of  the  Regulars. 
They  killed  eight  of  our  men,  and  shot  a  cannon  ball  through 
the  meeting  house.  We  went  along  through  Lexington,  and 
we  saw  several  Regulars  dead  on  the  road,  and  some  of  our 
men,  and  three  or  four  houses  were  burnt,  and  some  horses  and 
hogs  were  killed.  They  plundered  in  every  house  they  could 
get  into.  They  stove  in  windows  and  broke  in  tops  of  desks. 
We  met  the  men  a  coming  back  very  fast,"  etc. 

Jonathan's  fourth  son  was  Isaac,  born  in  1785.  On 
reaching  manhood  he  went  before  the  mast  on  a  voyage 
to  China,  and  brought  back,  as  a  gift  to  his  mother,  a 
beautiful  china  tea-set.  After  his  return  from  sea  he  went 
to  Andover,  Maine,  to  settle  upon  the  lands  bestowed 
by  his  father  upon  himself  and  brothers,  Jonathan  and 
James. 

With  characteristic  energy,  Isaac  Stevens  set  to  work 
clearing  his  land,  and  reducing  rebellious  nature  to  orderly 
submission.  While  thus  at  work  in  the  woods  one  day, 
a  heavy  tree  fell  upon  and  crushed  him  to  the  earth ;  his 
left  leg  was  terribly  mangled,  the  bones  broken  in  two 
places,  and  he  received  other  serious  injuries.  The  doc- 
tors insisted  that  the  leg  must  be  taken  off  in  order  to 
save  his  life,  but  Isaac  Stevens  with  inflexible  resolution 


BIRTHPLACE  7 

refused  to  allow  the  amputation,  and  after  a  long,  painful 
illness  finally  recovered.  The  limb,  however,  in  the  pro- 
cess of  healing,  became  materially  shorter  and  permanently 
stiffened,  so  that  he  was  unable  to  bend  the  knee  joint, 
and  during  the  remainder  of  his  life  the  wound  broke 
out  afresh  periodically,  and  caused  him  great  suffering. 
As  soon  as  he  was  sufficiently  recovered  to  bear  the  jour- 
ney, he  returned  to  his  native  Andover,  where,  under  his 
mother's  careful  nursing,  he  slowly  recovered  from  the 
terrible  injuries  he  had  received. 

It  was  at  this  time  that  he  formed  an  attachment  with 
Hannah  Cummings,  the  daughter  of  a  sterling  farmer 
family  like  his  own,  and  who  united  to  a  warm  and  affec- 
tionate heart,  noble  and  elevated  sentiments,  strong  good 
sense,  and  untiring  industry.  Their  marriage  followed 
soon  after,  on  the  29th  of  September,  1814.  He  now 
relinquished  the  project  of  settling  in  Maine,  and  hired 
an  old  farmhouse  with  some  twenty  acres  of  land  of  Mr. 
Bridges.  This  house,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Andover,  is 
situated  at  the  end  of  Marble  Ridge,  a  short  distance 
south  of  the  Great  Pond,  and  at  the  point  where  the  road 
from  the  village  to  Haverhill,  after  crossing  the  Essex 
Railroad,  forks,  the  left  branch  leading  on  to  Haverhill, 
while  the  other  turns  short  to  the  right  and  conducts  to 
Marble  Ridge  Station.  The  solid  timbers  and  stockaded 
sides  of  the  rear  part  of  this  old  house  — for  the  front  is  a 
later  structure  —  were  the  mute  witnesses  of  a  stratagem 
in  early  Indian  troubles  as  novel  as  it  proved  successful. 
The  stout-hearted  farmer  settler  was  alone,  with  his  wife 
and  little  ones  about  him,  one  night,  when  he  discovered  a 
large  party  of  savages  stealthily  approaching,  and  spread- 
ing out  so  as  to  encompass  his  house.  Hastily  barricad- 
ing the  doors,  he  seized  his  trumpet,  which  he  bore  as 
trumpeter  of  the  military  company  of  the  settlement,  stole 
unperceived  out  of  the  house,  caught  and  mounted  his 


8  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

horse,  and,  making  a  circuit  through  the  fields,  gained  the 
high  road  between  the  Indians  and  the  village.  Then, 
putting  spurs  to  his  steed,  and  pealing  blast  upon  blast 
from  his  trumpet,  he  charged  furiously  down  upon  the 
Indians,  now  in  the  very  act  of  assailing  his  domicile,  who, 
thinking  no  doubt  that  the  whole  force  of  the  country- 
side was  upon  them,  incontinently  fled  into  the  forest. 

Judged  by  the  standard  of  these  days,  the  young  couple 
had  an  unpromising  future.  They  were  very  poor,  the 
husband  a  cripple,  and  they  held  as  tenants  a  few  barren 
acres  from  which  to  extract  a  livelihood.  But  Isaac  Ste- 
vens now  toiled  early  and  late  with  untiring  energy ;  he 
saved  at  every  point,  and  turned  everything  to  account 
with  true  Yankee  thrift.  He  built  a  malt-house,  and  after 
laboring  on  the  farm  from  earliest  dawn  until  dark,  would 
work  at  preparing  the  malt  until  late  in  the  evening. 
His  farm  embraced  a  large  meadow  lying  on  both  sides 
of  the  Cochichewick,  just  below  where  it  issued  from  the 
Great  Pond,  but  now  flooded  by  the  milldams  still  lower 
down,  where  he  cut  vast  quantities  of  meadow  hay,  with 
which  he  filled  his  barns  and  fed  a  goodly  number  of 
horned  stock  during  the  long,  rigorous  winters,  realizing 
thereby  a  handsome  profit  in  the  spring.  His  young  wife 
joined  her  efforts  to  his,  and  frequently  cut  and  made 
clothing  for  the  neighbors  around,  in  addition  to  the 
unceasing  and  arduous  labors  of  a  farmer's  wife.  Such 
thrift  and  industry  could  not  fail  of  success.  The 
Bridges  house  and  land  were  purchased,  largely  on 
mortgage  at  first ;  then  the  wet  meadow  was  added ;  then 
a  goodly  tract  of  generous  land  was  bought  of  the  father, 
Jonathan  Stevens,  and  other  fields  and  tracts  were  added 
from  time  to  time.  During  the  thirteen  years  following 
their  marriage,  the  first  scanty  holding  grew  to  a  farm  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  acres  of  their  own,  and  free  from 
debt.     Seven  children,  too,  came  to  bless  their  union  and 


BIRTHPLACE  9 

increase  their  cares.  Then  the  devoted  wife  and  mother 
died,  November  3,  1827,  leaving  this  helpless  little  flock, 
the  oldest  of  whom  was  but  twelve  and  the  youngest  two 
years  of  age.  Henceforth  life  was  a  heavy  and  unceasing 
labor  to  Isaac  Stevens.  The  little  farm  grew  no  larger, 
and  all  his  efforts  were  now  required  to  maintain  his 
family  and  keep  free  from  debt.  Two  years  afterwards 
he  married  Ann  Poor,  of  North  Andover,  impelled  by  his 
situation  and  circumstances,  with  so  many  helpless  chil- 
dren about  him  and  the  household  economy  of  the  farm 
unprovided  for.  The  second  wife  failed  to  restore  the 
happiness  of  home.  She  had  no  children,  and  died  in 
1866,  four  years  after  her  husband. 

Isaac  Stevens  was  a  man  of  deeply  marked  and  noble 
characteristics.  His  fortitude  was  severely  tested  by  the 
misfortune  which  left  him  a  lifelong  cripple.  His  cool 
courage  and  inflexible  resolution  are  best  illustrated  by  his 
manner  of  dealing  with  a  dangerous  bull  he  once  owned. 
This  animal  grew  daily  more  and  more  savage,  until  every 
one  stood  in  fear  of  it  except  the  owner,  who,  as  often 
happens  in  such  cases,  persisted  in  thinking  it  quite  harm- 
less. At  length,  however,  the  bull  one  day  chased  a  neigh- 
bor, who  had  imprudently  ventured  to  cross  the  field  in 
which  it  pastured,  and  overtaking  him  just  as  he  reached 
the  fence,  tossed  him  high  in  air,  so  that  falling  for- 
tunately on  the  farther  side  of  the  inclosure,  he  escaped 
with  no  more  serious  injuries  than  some  severe  bruises  and 
a  broken  nose.  The  bull,  furious  at  the  escape  of  his  prey, 
was  bellowing  and  pawing  the  ground.  "  The  bull  must 
be  shot ! "  cried  the  man  who  helped  off  the  injured  neigh- 
bor. But  Isaac  Stevens  at  once  armed  himself  with  a 
stout  cudgel,  coolly  hobbled  into  the  field,  disregarding 
all  remonstrances  and  entreaties,  fixed  his  eye  upon  the 
enraged  beast,  backed  him  into  a  narrow  corner  where 
he  could  not  escape,  and  thrashed  him  over  the  head  with 


10  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  club  with  such  terrible  severity  that  he  was  completely 
subdued,  and  ever  after  remained  perfectly  gentle  and 
submissive. 

Always  strictly  observing  the  Sabbath,  he  held  liberal 
views  of  religion  and  attended  the  Unitarian  Church. 
He  kept  himself  informed  of  the  current  events  of  the  * 
day,  taking  the  New  York  "  Tribune "  and  Garrison's 
"  Liberator,"  and  manifesting  the  greatest  interest  in 
education,  temperance,  anti-slavery,  and  every  cause  that 
would  make  mankind  better  or  happier.  "  How  he 
denied  himself  all  comforts  almost,  and  quietly  sent 
money  to  free  the  slave  and  for  the  temperance  cause ! 
He  was  a  strong  pillar  of  the  foundation  principles  of 
right  and  justice  that  it  would  be  well  for  young  men 
of  this  day  to  study,"  said  one  who  knew  him  well. 

He  was,  above  all,  a  man  of  perfect  integrity  and 
truth,  and  of  a  strict  sense  of  justice.  There  was  not  a 
fibre  of  guile  or  indirection  in  his  moral  nature.  He 
held  strong  and  ardent  convictions,  noble  and  lofty  ideals 
of  duty  and  philanthropy,  and  an  intense  hatred  and 
scorn  of  wrong  or  oppression  in  any  form.  He  strongly 
opposed  and  denounced  the  use  of  liquors  and  tobacco, 
and  became  early  in  life  a  vehement  and  outspoken 
abolitionist  of  slavery,  at  a  period  when  the  advocacy  of 
such  doctrines  demanded  unusual  moral  courage  as  well 
as  stern  conviction  of  right.  At  his  decease,  years  after- 
wards, he  bequeathed  five  hundred  dollars  to  the  Anti- 
Slavery  Society,  requiring  only  that  Wendell  Phillips 
should  deliver  a  lecture  in  the  parish  church  of  North 
Andover. 

The  untiring  industry  which,  with  his  frugality  and 
good  management,  enabled  him  to  achieve  comparative 
independence  so  early  in  life,  was  not  the  course  of  a 
drudge  and  miser,  but  of  an  ardent,  resolute  spirit  spurn- 
ing poverty,  debt,  and  dependence.     All  through  life  he 


BIRTHPLACE  11 

manifested  an  unconquerable  aversion  to  debt.  He  loved 
a  fast  horse,  and  the  old  mare  which  he  kept  until  she 
died,  over  twenty-seven  years  old,  was,  in  her  prime,  the 
fastest  in  the  town.  After  reading  a  newspaper  or  book, 
he  was  in  the  habit  of  giving  it  to  a  neighbor,  telling 
him  to  hand  it  to  another  after  perusing  it.  He  took 
great  pains  with  his  orchards,  and  planted  apple-trees 
along  the  stone  walls  bordering  his  fields.  He  also 
planted  the  noble  elms  now  overhanging  the  old  farm- 
house, and  the  long  lines  of  this  graceful  tree  now  bor- 
dering the  road  from  the  house  to  the  crest  of  the  hill 
overlooking  the  village  and  the  road  over  Marble  Ridge, 
and  the  numerous  clumps  and  rows  in  his  fields  wherever 
a  sightly  eminence  seemed  to  require  such  an  adornment. 
His  children  were  :  — 

Hannah  Peabody,  born  September  24,  1815,  died  November 

24,  1840. 
Susan  Bragg,  born  February  14, 1817,  died  April  8,  1841. 
Isaac  Ingalls,  born  March  25,  1818,  died  September  1, 1862. 
Elizabeth  Barker,  born  July  14,  1819,  died  December  10, 

1846. 
Sarah  Ann,  born  January  13,  1822,  died  February  8,  1844. 
Mary  Jane,  born  August  5,  1823,  died  June  22,  1847. 
Oliver,  born  June  22,  1825. 

The  following  account  of  the  ancestry  of  Hannah 
Cummings  is  given  by  her  nephew,  Dr.  George  Mooar, 
D.  D.,  of  Oakland,  California,  who  has  collected  much 
information  concerning  the  Cummings  genealogy :  — 

"Hannah,  wife  of  Isaac  Stevens,  was  the  third  child  of 
Deacon  Asa  and  Hannah  (Peabody)  Cummings,  born  October 
23,  1785,  married  September  29,  1814,  and  died  November  3, 
1827. 

"  The  line  from  her  father  to  the  first  American  ancestor 
runs  thus:  Asa  (6),  Thomas  (5),  Joseph  (4),  Abraham  (3), 
John  (2),  Isaac  (1). 


12  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

"  Deacon  Asa  was  born  in  Andover,  Massachusetts,  but 
removed  in  1798  to  Albany,  Maine,  a  pioneer  settler  there, 
a  trusted,  intelligent,  and  capable  citizen,  who  in  1803  repre- 
sented his  district  in  the  General  Court. 

"  Captain  Thomas  (5)  was  born  in  Topsfield  and  died  Sep- 
tember 3,  1765.  He  married  Anna  Kittell,  the  widow  of  Asa 
Johnson,  of  Andover. 

"Captain  Joseph  (4),  of  Topsfield,  was  quite  a  character. 
The  biographer  of  Dr.  Manasseh  Cutler  says  that  he  found 
among  the  papers  of  that  eminent  person  a  notice  of  Captain 
Cummings  in  which  he  is  spoken  of  as  a  remarkable  man,  well 
versed  in  the  politics  of  the  day,  and  he  adds  :  '  From  the  inter- 
est Dr.  Cutler  felt  in  him,  he  must  have  been  a  stanch  patriot 
and  Federalist.'  In  a  notice  which  appears  in  the  '  Salem 
Gazette'  we  are  told  that  when  nearly  a  hundred  he  would 
readily  mount  his  horse  from  the  ground.  He  died  in  his  one 
hundred  and  second  year. 

"  Abraham  (3)  was  a  resident  of  Woburn  and  of  Dunstable. 

"  John  (2)  was  quite  a  large  proprietor  in  Boxford,  Massa- 
chusetts, and  later  was  one  of  the  first  fourteen  proprietors  of 
the  town  of  Dunstable. 

"  Isaac  (1)  appears  on  a  list  of  the  '  Commoners  of  Ipswich 
in  1641,  but  appears  to  have  arrived  in  America  three  years 
before.  No  exact  knowledge  of  his  previous  residence  in  Great 
Britain  has  been  obtained.  The  prevailing  tradition  gives  him 
a  Scottish  descent.' 

"  An  elder  brother  of  Hannah  Cummings  was  Dr.  Asa  Cum- 
mings, D.  D.,  of  Portland,  Maine,  eminent  for  classical  learn- 
ing and  piety,  and  editor  of  the  '  Christian  Mirror '  for  many 
years." 


CHAPTER  II 

BIRTH. BOYHOOD 

Isaac  Ingalls  Stevens  first  saw  the  light  at  the  old 
Marble  Ridge  farmhouse,  on  the  25th  of  March,  1818. 
He  was  a  delicate  infant,  and  it  was  impossible  for  his 
mother,  with  her  other  little  ones  and  the  engrossing 
labors  of  the  farmhouse,  to  bestow  upon  him  the  care  his 
condition  required.  His  grandmother,  one  day  visiting 
the  farm,  was  shocked  to  see  him  still  in  his  cradle,  though 
three  years  old,  and,  remarking  that  unless  he  was  taught 
soon  he  never  would  walk,  insisted  upon  taking  him  home 
with  her,  where,  under  her  gentle  and  experienced  hands, 
he  quickly  learned  to  run  about.  After  returning  home 
his  father  used  to  plunge  him,  fresh  from  bed,  into  a 
hogshead  of  cold  water  every  morning. 

Such  heroic  treatment  would  be  sure  to  kill  or  cure, 
and  perhaps  no  better  proof  could  be  given  of  the  native 
vigor  of  his  constitution  than  the  fact  that  he  lived,  and 
became  strong,  active,  and  hardy. 

Even  as  a  child  he  was  active,  daring,  and  adventurous. 
He  used  to  climb  the  lofty  elms  in  front  of  his  grand- 
father's house,  and  cling  like  a  squirrel  to  the  topmost 
branches,  laughing  and  chattering  defiance  to  his  grand- 
mother's commands  and  entreaties  to  come  down. 

One  afternoon  Abiel  Holt,  the  hired  man  on  the  farm, 
went  a-fishing  for  pickerel,  and  took  Isaac,  who  was  then 
a  very  little  urchin  just  able  to  run  about  cleverly.  After 
catching  a  fine  string  of  fish,  they  came  to  the  old  cause- 
way which  crossed  the  water  where  now  stands  the  dam 


14  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

under  the  Essex  Railroad,  but  which  was  then  submerged 
several  feet  deep  in  the  water  for  some  distance. 

A  rude  footway  had  been  contrived  here  by  driving 
down  forked  stakes  at  suitable  intervals  along  the  cause- 
way, and  placing  loose  poles  in  the  crotches  from  stake 
to  stake,  forming  one  row  for  the  feet  and  another  a 
little  higher  for  the  hands. 

The  contrivance  was  rickety  and  unsafe  to  the  last 
degree ;  the  poles  swayed  and  bent  at  every  step,  and  it 
required  great  care  and  the  use  of  both  feet  and  hands 
to  avoid  a  ducking.  It  was  now  time  to  drive  up  the 
cows,  which  were  pasturing  beyond  the  water ;  so  Holt, 
bidding  the  child  remain  there,  crossed  over  after  them, 
taking  with  him  the  string  of  fish,  which  he  hung  up  on 
one  of  the  stakes  on  the  farther  side,  for  he  wanted  the 
pleasure  of  taking  his  spoils  home  in  triumph,  and  feared, 
if  he  left  them  with  Isaac,  the  latter  would  take  them 
and  run  home  while  he  was  away.  On  returning  he  was 
struck  with  consternation  to  find  no  trace  of  either  the 
child  or  the  fish.  He  carefully  scrutinized  the  water 
without  result,  and  at  length  slowly  returned  to  the  farm- 
house, filled  with  misgivings,  and  was  not  a  little  relieved 
to  find  both  his  charge  and  his  fish  safe  at  home.  The 
child  had  worked  his  way  across  the  water  by  the  poles, 
although,  standing  on  the  lower  row,  he  could  hardly  reach 
the  upper  one  with  extended  arms,  and  had  returned, 
holding  the  string  of  fish  in  his  teeth,  in  the  same  way. 
His  father  ever  after  was  particularly  fond  of  relating  this 
anecdote  in  proof  of  the  daring  and  adventurous  spirit  so 
early  manifested. 

He  was  a  sensitive,  earnest  child,  not  demonstrative, 
but  having  great  affection  and  tenderness,  which  he  lav- 
ished upon  his  mother.  Her  early  death  was  his  first  and 
greatest  misfortune.  When  he  was  only  seven  years  old, 
his  father,  who  always  drove  furiously,  in  driving  with 


04  «3 

>  •§ 

O  v. 

5  I 


BOYHOOD  15 

his  wife  in  his  wagon  rapidly  around  a  corner,  overset 
the  vehicle.  They  were  thrown  out  violently  upon  the 
ground,  and  the  unfortunate  mother  struck  upon  her 
head.  From  this  shock  she  never  really  recovered,  and 
died  two  years  after  the  unhappy  accident.  During  this 
period  Isaac  attached  himself  closely  to  his  mother,  and 
acquired  no  slight  influence  over  her.  The  early  death 
of  this  tender  and  devoted  wife  and  mother  well-nigh 
destroyed  the  happiness  of  her  family.  Isaac  ever  cher- 
ished her  memory  with  the  tenderest  veneration.  He 
thought  that  from  her  were  inherited  great  part  of  his 
talents,  and  that  had  she  lived  he  would  have  been  spared 
the  injudicious  forcing  of  his  mind  in  his  childhood,  to 
which  he  always  declared  he  owed  a  real  mental  injury. 

After  the  mother's  death,  a  housekeeper  was  employed 
to  provide  for  the  helpless  little  flock,  and  attend  to  the 
household  duties ;  and  two  years  later  the  father  married 
his  second  wife,  Ann  Poor. 

Isaac  was  sent  to  school  before  his  fifth  year,  where 
from  the  first  he  displayed  great  power  of  memory,  close 
application,  and  devotion  to  study.  His  teachers  were 
astonished  to  find  that  he  did  not  stop  at  the  end  of  the 
day's  lesson,  but  habitually  learned  far  beyond  it,  often 
reciting  page  after  page.  It  was  said  that  there  was  no 
need  of  telling  Isaac  how  much  to  study ;  it  was  enough 
to  show  him  where  to  begin,  and  he  would  learn  more 
than  the  teacher  cared  to  hear.  His  first  teacher,  Miss 
Susan  Foster,  said  with  astonishment  one  day,  after  hear^ 
ing  his  lesson  in  arithmetic,  "  There  is  no  use  for  me  to 
teach  him  arithmetic;  he  is  already  far  beyond  me  in 
that." 

After  his  tenth  year  he  attended  Franklin  Academy, 
in  North  Andover,  —  Old  Put's  school,  as  it  was  usually 
and  more  familiarly  styled,  —  kept  by  Mr.  Simon  Put- 
nam, who  attained  great  repute  as  a  teacher.     This  was 


16  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

situated  on  the  hill  north  of  the  meeting-house,  on  land 
given  for  the  purpose  by  grandfather  Jonathan.  Here 
he  studied  the  usual  English  branches.  Among  his 
schoolmates  were  William  Endicott,  Jr.,  the  well-known 
philanthropist,  Hon.  Daniel  Saunders,  the  late  George  B. 
Loring,  and  Major  George  T.  Clark.  It  appears  that 
wrestling  was  a  favorite  sport  with  the  active  and  hardy 
boys  at  this  school. 

His  father,  proud  and  ambitious  on  his  account,  kept 
him  constantly  at  school,  and  urged  on  to  still  greater 
efforts  this  earnest,  ardent  nature,  intense  in  everything 
he  undertook.  The  evil  effects  of  such  mistaken  treat- 
ment soon  made  themselves  felt.  His  mind  became 
wearied  and  dull  from  overtasking.  The  teacher  advised 
rest.  The  boy,  then  but  ten  years  old,  begged  his  father 
to  take  him  out  of  school  and  let  him  work  on  the 
farm,  telling  him  that  he  could  no  longer  study ;  that  he 
could  not  learn  his  lessons.  But  the  father  refused,  not 
realizing  the  son's  condition,  and  bade  him  go  back  to 
school  and  study  what  he  could.  Isaac  then  went  to  his 
uncle  Nathaniel,  who  owned  the  Cochichewick  woolen 
mills,  situated  two  miles  below  the  farm,  and  obtained  his 
permission  to  work  in  the  factory  for  a  year.  He  pre- 
vailed upon  his  grandmother  to  let  him  lodge  at  her 
house  in  order  to  be  nearer  the  factory ;  and  having  thus 
decided  upon  his  course,  went  home  and  informed  his 
father  of  the  arrangements  he  had  made,  who,  astonished 
at  the  judgment  and  resolution  of  the  boy,  acquiesced. 
So  Isaac  went  to  work  in  the  factory,  lodging  at  his 
grandfather's,  rising  long  before  daylight  that  he  might 
eat  a  hurried  breakfast,  walk  a  mile  to  the  factory,  and 
begin  the  day's  work  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  toiling  ten  to  twelve  hours  a  day.  He  entered  the 
weavers'  room,  where  he  soon  learned  to  manage  a  loom. 
The  best  weavers  were  women,  it  seems,  and  able  to  run 


BOYHOOD  17 

two  looms  apiece.  Isaac  at  once  determined  to  excel  the 
most  capable ;  and  before  he  left  the  factory,  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  goal  of  his  ambition,  and  managed  four 
looms  unassisted. 

After  a  year  of  this  unremitting  labor,  he  left  the  mills. 
As  he  was  returning  home  with  the  scanty  sum  he  had 
earned  in  his  pocket,  taking  it  to  his  father,  he  passed  a 
shop  where  some  tempting  hot  gingerbread  was  displayed 
for  sale,  and  felt  an  intense  longing  to  buy  a  penny- 
worth ;  but  reflecting  that  his  earnings  belonged  to  his 
father,  and  it  would  be  wrong  for  him  to  spend  any  of 
them,  he  overcame  the  desire  and  went  home.  But  when 
he  handed  the  money  to  his  father,  and  asked  for  a  cent 
to  buy  the  gingerbread  with,  he  felt  stung  to  the  quick 
by  the  latter's  refusal.  In  truth,  the  father's  hard 
struggle  with  poverty  and  adverse  circumstances  had  nar- 
rowed his  noble  nature.  Too  much  had  life  become  to 
him  nothing  but  hard  work,  self-sacrifice,  and  a  severe 
sense  of  duty.  He  did  not  appreciate  the  sensitive 
nature  of  a  child,  and  its  needs  of  sympathy,  recreation, 
and  occasional  indulgence. 

Directly  across  the  road  from  the  house  was  a  small 
pool  called  the  frog-pond.  Isaac  selected  a  corner  of 
this  pond  for  his  garden,  filled  it  up  with  stones,  and 
covered  them  with  rich  earth  brought  from  a  distance  in 
his  little  cart  with  great  pains  and  labor.  He  eagerly 
seized  every  moment  that  could  be  spared  from  school 
and  his  unceasing  round  of  morning  and  evening  chores 
to  devote  to  this  darling  project.  At  last  the  garden 
was  prepared,  and  planted  with  his  own  favorite  seeds. 
But  his  father,  fearing  that  it  might  distract  and  take  up 
too  much  time  from  his  studies  and  duties  about  the 
farm,  rudely  uprooted  his  tenderly  cared-for  plants,  and 
put  in  potatoes  instead. 

On  another  occasion  his  father's  injudicious  urging 


18  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

nearly  proved  fatal.  Isaac  was  helping  in  the  hay-field, 
and  was  working  with  such  ardor  and  had  accomplished 
so  much  that  his  father  was  actually  astonished.  Instead 
of  restraining,  he  praised  him  without  stint.  Under  this 
stimulus  the  ambitious  boy  redoubled  his  exertions  until 
he  was  prostrated  by  a  sunstroke,  resulting  in  a  raging 
fever,  from  which  he  barely  escaped  with  life  after  a 
severe  sickness. 

On  another  occasion,  when  twelve  years  old,  he  was 
working  in  the  hay-field,  pitching  hay  upon  the  cart ;  he 
was  badly  ruptured,  and  had  to  be  carried  to  the  house. 
As  soon  as  he  was  able  to  travel  he  went  alone  to  Boston, 
and  sought  out  Dr.  Warren,  a  noted  surgeon,  and  laid 
his  case  before  him.  Dr.  Warren  was  so  much  struck 
with  the  lad's  courage  and  intelligence  that  he  refused  to 
accept  any  fee.  "  If  you  do  exactly  what  I  tell  you,  you 
will  get  well,"  he  said,  "  and  I  know  you  will  do  so  from 
looking  in  your  face."  The  surgeon  had  a  truss  made, 
and  prescribed  treatment,  but  all  the  remainder  of  his 
life  Isaac  was  obliged  to  wear  the  truss,  although  he 
outgrew  the  injury  in  a  measure  until  it  broke  out  afresh 
in  Mexico  from  over-exertion. 

Measured  by  modern  conditions,  it  was  a  severe  and 
laborious  home  life  in  which  the  farmer's  boy  grew  up, 
but  it  was  a  wholesome  one,  and  well  adapted  to  bring 
out  all  his  powers.  Morning  and  evening,  throughout 
the  year,  he  had  his  round  of  duties,  feeding  and  milking 
the  cows,  feeding  the  pigs,  cutting  and  bringing  in  wood, 
etc.  During  the  winter  he  rose  long  before  daylight  to 
attend  to  these  chores  and  shovel  snow  from  the  paths, 
then  after  a  hasty  breakfast  trudged  away  to  school,  and 
on  returning  again  resumed  the  round  of  unending  farm 
work.  In  summer  there  was  no  school  for  three  or  four 
months,  and  then  he  worked  on  the  farm,  hoeing  corn, 
making  hay,  driving  oxen,  and  performing  all  the  hard 


BOYHOOD  19 

and  varied  labors  of  a  New  England  farmer's  son.  But 
the  New  England  farmers  of  that  day  were  the  owners  of 
the  soil.  They  knew  no  superiors.  The  Revolutionary 
struggle,  as  recent  to  them  as  the  great  Rebellion  is  to 
us,  was  fresh  and  vivid  in  their  minds,  and  stimulated 
noble  ideas  of  liberty  and  national  independence.  The 
standard  of  personal  honesty,  manhood,  and  morals,  be- 
queathed from  their  Puritan  ancestry,  was  high.  Such 
was  the  moral  atmosphere  of  Isaac  Stevens's  household, 
heightened  by  his  own  earnest,  philanthropic,  and  elevated 
sentiments.  All  his  children  were  intellectual  and  high- 
minded,  and  nothing  can  be  more  touching  than  the 
constant  ambition  and  striving  of  his  five  daughters  for 
education  and  self-improvement.  All  became  teachers, 
but  died  young,  victims  of  consumption. 

Nor  was  the  life  of  the  youth  nothing  but  a  round  of 
hard  work  and  privation.  If  he  worked  hard  and  studied 
hard,  he  enjoyed  play  with  equal  zest,  and  shared  the 
rougher  sports  of  those  days  with  his  cousins  and  other 
boys  of  his  age.  They  were  more  pugnacious  and 
rougher  than  nowadays.  Wrestling  was  a  common  sport, 
and  boyish  fights  and  scuffles  were  usual. 

At  the  age  of  fifteen  he  entered  Phillips  Academy  in 
Andover.  Nathan  W.  Hazen,  Esq.,  a  well-known  and 
respected  lawyer  of  the  town,  furnished  him  board  and 
lodgings,  in  return  for  which  he  took  care  of  the  garden, 
and  did  the  chores  about  the  place.  One  of  his  school- 
mates, describing  his  first  appearance  at  the  academy, 
said :  "  The  door  opened,  and  there  quietly  entered  an  in- 
significant, small  boy,  carrying  in  his  arms  a  load  of  books 
nearly  as  large  as  himself.  But  the  impression  of  insigni- 
ficance vanished  as  soon  as  one  regarded  his  large  head, 
earnest  face,  and  firm,  searching,  and  fearless  dark  hazel 
eye." 

He  remained  at  the  academy  over  a  year.     As  usual, 


20  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

he  took  the  front  rank  from  the  beginning.  His  reputa- 
tion as  a  scholar,  especially  in  mathematics,  extended  be- 
yond the  school.  Besides  his  studies  he  took  sole  care  of 
Mr.  Hazen's  garden,  a  half  acre  in  extent,  groomed  the 
horse,  milked  the  cow,  and  fed  them,  cut  and  brought  in 
the  wood,  and  did  many  other  jobs  about  the  house,  per- 
forming an  amount  of  labor,  as  Mr.  Hazen  declared,  suf- 
ficient to  dismay  many  a  hired  man.  He  studied  early 
in  the  morning  and  late  at  night.  His  power  of  concen- 
trating his  mind  upon  any  subject  was  extraordinary. 
His  industry  was  untiring.  The  impress  this  boy  of 
fifteen  made  upon  those  with  whom  he  came  in  contact 
during  his  stay  at  this  place  is  really  remarkable.  Mr. 
Hazen,  who  proved  a  considerate  friend  and  adviser  to 
the  struggling  youth,  relates  that  every  evening  Isaac 
would  bring  his  chair  close  to  the  office  table,  at  which 
the  former  was  accustomed  to  read  or  write,  in  order  to 
avail  himself  of  the  light,  and  would  work  out  mathe- 
matical problems  on  his  slate.  He  would  remain  quietly 
with  his  hand  to  his  head  in  deep  thought  for  a  little 
time,  when  suddenly  he  would  shower  a  perfect  rainstorm 
of  figures  upon  his  slate  without  hesitation,  or  erasure, 
oftentimes  completely  filling  it.  Generally  the  correct 
result  was  reached;  but  when  the  solution  was  not  found 
the  first  time,  he  would  rapidly  wipe  off  every  figure  and 
begin  again  as  before.  His  mind  always  sought  out  and 
mastered  the  bottom  principle.  It  was  remarked  that, 
whenever  he  had  once  solved  a  problem,  he  could  unhesi- 
tatingly solve  all  others  of  the  same  character. 

On  one  occasion  a  mathematician  of  some  note,  who 
had  just  published  a  new  arithmetic,  brought  his  work  to 
the  academy,  and  tested  the  acquirements  of  the  scholars 
by  giving  them  his  new  problems  to  solve.  When  Isaac 
was  called  to  the  blackboard,  he  astonished  the  author 
and  the  teacher  alike  by  the  ease  and  rapidity  with  which 


BOYHOOD  21 

he  solved  every  example.  They  plied  him  again  and 
again  with  the  most  difficult  problems,  but  he  mastered 
them  in  every  instance.  "Well,  sir,"  exclaimed  the 
author,  somewhat  piqued,  "  I  think  you  could  make  the 
key  to  this  book."  Isaac  took  the  book,  and  in  three 
days  returned  it  with  every  example  worked  out. 

A  very  difficult  problem  was  sent  from  Yale  College  to 
the  academy.  While  the  teachers  and  scholars  were  puz- 
zling over  it,  Isaac  sat  in  thought  for  half  an  hour  with 
his  hand  to  his  head,  then  rapidly  worked  out  the  problem 
on  his  slate  and  presented  the  solution. 

Young  as  he  was,  it  seems  that  he  had  thought  enough 
on  religious  subjects  to  become  a  decided  Universalist 
and  Unitarian.  A  religious  revival  took  place  while  he 
was  at  the  academy,  and  many  of  the  scholars  were 
brought  within  its  influence.  Among  others,  one  of  the 
teachers  became  "  converted,"  and  sought  all  means  to 
promote  a  similar  experience  among  his  pupils.  In  order 
to  remove  the  stumbling-blocks  of  doubt  and  ignorance, 
he  offered  to  answer  any  questions  they  might  propound 
on  religious  topics.  The  first  question  Isaac  put,  "  Can 
a  sincere  Universalist  be  saved  ?  "  was  met  by  a  decided 
and  uncompromising  "  No."  But  the  youth  plied  the 
unfortunate  zealot  with  such  queries  that  he  was  forced 
to  confess  his  inability  to  answer  them,  and  to  withdraw 
his  offer.  Once,  when  he  wanted  the  whole  class  to 
attend  one  of  the  revival  meetings,  he  put  it  to  them  that 
all  who  were  willing  to  dispense  with  the  afternoon  ses- 
sion and  attend  the  meeting  should  rise.  All  promptly 
stood  up  except  Isaac,  who  resolutely  kept  his  seat. 
"Every  one  in  favor  except  Stevens,"  exclaimed  the 
teacher  with  some  bitterness,  realizing  the  protest  against 
his  own  bigotry.  In  truth,  the  youth's  sense  of  right 
had  been  shocked  by  the  doctrines  he  heard  advanced ; 
he  was  strongly  opposed  to  such  revival  meetings,  and 


22  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

his  earnest  nature  would  not  bend  in  a  matter  of  prin- 
ciple. 

At  one  of  these  meetings  his  two  sisters,  Hannah  and 
Susan,  yielded  to  the  exhortations  and  influences  of  the 
occasion,  and  took  their  seats  on  the  converts'  or  mourn- 
ers' bench,  as  it  was  called.  Perceiving  this,  Isaac  imme- 
diately marched  up  to  the  front,  and  made  them  both 
leave  the  church  with  him,  no  slight  proof  of  his  influence 
over  them,  older  than  himself.  In  fact,  while  they  felt 
great  pride  in  his  talents,  his  sisters  had  come  still  more 
to  respect  and  lean  upon  his  sound  judgment  and  firm 
will.  He  lavished  upon  them  all  the  great  tenderness 
and  affection  of  his  strong  and  earnest  nature. 

During  his  boyhood  he  was  affected  with  excessive  dif- 
fidence, or  bashfulness.  With  characteristic  resolution 
and  good  sense,  he  set  himself  to  overcome  this  weakness. 
He  made  it  a  point  always  to  address  any  one  whose 
presence  inspired  this  awkward  feeling,  but,  he  said,  it 
was  years  before  he  overcame  it. 

After  a  year  and  four  months  of  this  severe  applica- 
tion, Isaac  completed  his  course  at  Phillips  Academy. 
He  wished  to  study  law  with  Mr.  Hazen,  but  that  gentle- 
man discouraged  the  idea.  At  this  juncture  his  uncle, 
William  Stevens,  suggested  West  Point,  and  wrote  to  Mr. 
Gayton  P.  Osgood,  the  member  of  Congress  for  the  North 
Essex  District,  in  which  Andover  was  situated,  inquiring 
if  there  was  an  appointment  in  his  gift,  and  suggesting 
Isaac's  name.  Mr.  Osgood  replied  that  there  was  no 
vacancy.  But  uncle  William  was  not  satisfied ;  he  wrote 
to  William  C.  Phillips,  the  member  representing  the  South 
Essex  District,  by  whom  he  was  informed  that  no  cadet 
had  been  appointed  from  Mr.  Osgood's  district.  Ac- 
cordingly he  formally  made  application  in  behalf  of  his 
nephew.  A  lawyer  by  profession,  and  cashier  of  the  An- 
dover bank,  he  was  a  man  of  some  influence.     Mr.  Ha&en 


BOYHOOD  23 

and  other  friends  joined  their  recommendations.  Mr. 
Phillips  exerted  a  favorable  influence,  and  although  there 
were  other  candidates  with  more  influential  backing,  Mr. 
Osgood  'bestowed  upon  Isaac  the  desired  appointment. 
Both  uncle  William  and  Mr.  Hazen  declared  that  the 
recommendations  had  little  weight,  and  that  Mr.  Osgood 
selected  him  on  account  of  his  reputation  for  ability  and 
scholarship. 


CHAPTER  III 

WEST  POINT 

The  following  letter  to  his  uncle  William,  written  im- 
mediately after  his  arrival  at  West  Point,  vividly  portrays 
the  mingled  emotions  that  stirred  the  heart  of  the  raw 
but  ambitious  country  youth  on  reaching  the  goal  of  his 
boyish  hopes,  —  his  ardent  patriotism,  awakened  by  the 
historic  scenes  about  him ;  his  ambition  and  determina- 
tion to  be  first  in  his  class,  "  by  unflinching  resolution, 
indomitable  perseverance,  fixing  his  whole  soul  upon  the 
object  he  wishes  to  attain  with  concentrated  and  undivided 
attention  ; "  his  gratitude  to  his  uncle  and  friends  for  his 
appointment,  and  his  affectionate  regard  for  his  family. 
It  is  also  significant  of  his  self-reliant  character  that  he 
expresses  no  fears  in  regard  to  the  impending  exami- 
nation for  admission,  but  remarks,  with  well-grounded 
confidence,  that  "  there  can  be  no  difficulty  in  sustaining 
myself  with  honor  and  respectability." 

West  Point,  June  13,  1835. 
Dear  Uncle,  —  I  now  enjoy  the  long-anticipated  happiness 
of  addressing  you  from  West  Point.  And  perhaps  you  may 
ask,  does  it  meet  my  expectations?  I  am  not  prepared  to 
answer  this  question  fully  at  present,  but  will  say  that  I  like 
my  situation,  although  subject  to  very  strict  regulations,  and 
fully  believe  there  can  be  no  difficulty  in  obeying  every  regula- 
tion and  sustaining  myself  with  honor  and  respectability.  And 
be  assured  that  I  always  shall  consider  myself  greatly  indebted 
to  you  for  your  kind  exertions  in  my  behalf,  and  it  shall  be  my 
determination  to  demean  myself  in  such  a  manner  as  to  con- 
vince you  and  all  my  friends  that  their  exertions  have  not  been 
thrown  away.     Here  I  am  surrounded  by  young  men  from 


WEST  POINT  25 

every  State  in  the  Union,  who  are  eagerly  endeavoring  to  arrive 
at  distinction,  many  of  whom  have  determined,  and,  what  is 
better  still,  will  make  every  exertion  to  carry  their  resolve  into 
effect,  to  be  first  in  their  class. 

Every  one  must  buckle  on  his  armor  for  the  conflict :  let  him 
be  girded  with  unflinching  resolution,  indomitable  perseverance, 
decision  and  firmness  of  mind,  singleness  of  purpose,  integrity 
of  heart,  let  him  fix  his  whole  soul  upon  the  object  he  wishes  to 
attain  with  concentrated  and  undivided  attention,  and  he  will 
undoubtedly,  with  scarcely  the  possibility  of  a  doubt,  obtain 
the  post  of  honor. 

The  first  class  graduated  yesterday.  The  whole  number 
attached  to  this  class  was  54,  which  is  the  greatest  number  that 
ever  graduated  at  any  one  time  from  this  institution.  There 
were  splendid  fireworks  last  evening,  which  lasted  until  nine 
o'clock.  All  the  cadets  were  permitted  to  partake  of  the  sport. 
It  is  said  that  the  cadets  who  leave  here  are  so  affected  that 
they  even  shed  tears.  Is  it  to  be  wondered  at?  Is  there  a 
spot  in  the  whole  United  States  which  is  associated  with  so 
many  hallowed  and  pleasing  recollections  of  the  patriotism,  of 
the  struggles,  and  of  the  victories  of  our  Revolutionary  fathers  ? 
We  are  as  it  were  in  the  cradle  of  liberty,  in  the  stronghold  of 
freedom,  and  may  we  be  scions  worthy  of  the  tears  and  of  the 
blood  of  our  Revolutionary  sires :  may  I  not  disgrace  my  coun- 
try, my  State,  and  that  character  of  proud  disdain  and  patriotic 
valor  which  inspired  the  heroes  of  Andover  on  the  morn  of 
Bunker's  fight ;  and  above  all  may  I  cherish  that  love  of  freedom 
and  sympathy  for  the  sufferings  of  mankind  which  characterized 
the  life  of  Washington,  of  Kosciusko,  and  the  other  worthies  of 
the  Revolution ;  and  in  fine  may  I  cherish  a  heart  full  of  grati- 
tude for  those  kind  friends  who  by  their  exertions  have  assisted 
me  to  procure  my  present  situation.  I  shall  be  examined  Mon- 
day, and  the  encampment  will  be  pitched  on  Tuesday.  We 
shall  have  no  uniforms  until  the  4th  of  July,  at  which  time  the 
new  cadets  mount  guard.  As  soon  as  I  have  entered  upon  the 
active  duties  of  the  station,  I  shall  again  write  to  Andover. 
Give  my  love  to  father,  mother,  brother  and  sisters,  to  your 
own  family,  and  all  inquiring  friends,  remembering  me  espe- 
cially to  grandmother.     I  remain  your  grateful  nephew, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 
Wm.  Stevens,  Esq. 


26  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

He  entered  the  academy  resolved  to  place  himself  at 
the  head  of  his  class,  not  in  presumptuous  or  ignorant 
self-confidence,  but  fully  recognizing  the  arduous  struggle 
before  him.  A  boy  of  seventeen,  with  scanty  advantages 
of  education,  but  inured  to  hard  work  and  hard  study, 
he  did  not  hesitate  to  contest  the  palm  with  youths  older 
and  far  better  prepared  than  himself,  of  whom  two  at 
least  had  received  a  collegiate  education,  and  had  publicly 
avowed  their  determination  to  attain  the  first  place. 
These  were  Henry  W.  Halleck,  of  New  York,  distin- 
guished as  major-general,  and  at  one  time  commanding 
the  army  in  the  war  of  the  Kebellion,  and  Henry  J. 
Biddle,  of  Philadelphia,  both  of  whom  were  older  in 
years,  of  assured  social  position  and  wealthy  connections, 
accomplished  French  scholars,  and  well  up  in  mathe- 
matics; and  one  may  fancy  the  derision  with  which  they 
regarded  the  rivalry  of  the  undersized  farmer's  boy  from 
Andover. 

"  One  evening,"  says  General  E.  D.  Townsend,  late  adjutant- 
general  of  the  army,  "  a  classmate  of  mine,  who  was  very  fond 
of  mathematics,  General  Israel  Vogdes,  came  to  my  room,  and 
told  me  there  was  a  '  Plebe '  just  entered  from  my  State,  who 
was  a  fine  mathematician  already,  and  would  stand  '  head  of 
his  class  in  math.'  This  interested  me,  and  I  went  around  to 
offer  to  assist  my  fellow-statesman  in  entering  on  his  career. 
This  was  previous  to  his  first  encampment.  I  found  Mr. 
Stevens  a  modest,  straightforward  young  man,  who,  in  reply  to 
my  offer  of  any  assistance  I  could  give  him,  informed  me  he 
wanted  to  stand  head  of  his  class,  —  that  he  was  not  afraid  of 
mathematics,  but  knew  nothing  whatever  of  French.  I  at  once 
suggested  to  him  to  do  what  was  sometimes  but  not  often  done, 
to  apply  for  permission  to  take  lessons  during  the  encampment 
of  one  of  the  professors,  for  which  a  small  compensation  would 
be  allowed  to  be  deducted  from  Mr.  Stevens's  pay.  He  caught 
at  this  idea,  and  subsequently  carried  it  out.  The  result  was 
he  stood  fourteenth  in  French  in  the  first  January  examination, 
and  first  in  mathematics.     This  did  not  satisfy  him,  as  I  found 


WEST  POINT  27 

on  congratulating  him  on  what  I  deemed  a  most  creditable 
standing.  The  next  June  examination,  by  his  untiring  applica- 
tion, he  stood  head  both  in  mathematics  and  French.  There 
were  some  four  young  men  in  his  class  who  were  ripe  scholars 
when  they  entered  West  Point,  and  who  were  by  no  means 
wanting  in  studious  habits. 

"  The  following  year,  drawing  was  added  to  the  course.  Mr. 
Stevens  came  to  me  for  more  advice,  saying  he  had  not  the 
slightest  notion  of  drawing.  I  suggested  to  him,  first,  great 
care  in  his  outlines  to  get  them  accurate,  and  then,  if  he  found 
on  trial  that  he  had  no  talent  for  shading,  that  by  using  a  very 
fine-pointed  crayon,  and  making  with  patience  and  care  light, 
smooth  marks,  he  might  succeed  in  producing  a  well-finished 
and  pretty  picture.  He  came  to  me  shortly  after  to  say  that 
he  had  improved  upon  my  hint,  for  he  first  filled  in  the  outline 
with  a  fine  pencil,  and  then  traced  over  this  with  a  coarse  one 
the  prominent  lines  of  the  picture.  Well,  he  stood  head  in 
drawing,  and  this  although  at  least  one  of  his  competitors  was 
quite  expert  with  his  pencil  before  he  entered  the  academy. 
As  might  be  expected  from  the  beginning,  Mr.  Stevens  gradu- 
ated at  the  head  of  his  class  in  every  branch  throughout  the 
course." 

Among  his  classmates,  who  afterwards  rose  to  be  gen- 
erals in  the  army,  will  be  recognized  Henry  W.  Halleck ; 
Henry  J.  Hunt,  the  distinguished  chief  of  artillery  of 
the  Army  of  the  Potomac ;  George  Thorn ;  Edward  0.  C. 
Ord;  Edward  E.  S.  Canby,  who  commanded  the  army 
against  Mobile  in  1865,  and  was  massacred  by  the  Mo- 
docs  in  1873,  when  in  command  of  the  Department  of 
the  Columbia ;  and  James  B.  Ricketts ;  and  in  the  Con- 
federate army,  Jeremy  F.  Gilmer. 

Among  those  in  the  three  classes  above  him,  distin- 
guished as  generals  in  the  army,  were  Montgomery  C. 
Meiggs,  quartermaster-general  during  the  war,  Daniel 
P.  Woodbury,  James  Lowry  Donaldson,  Thomas  W. 
Sherman,  Henry  H.  Lockwood,  John  W.  Phelps,  Robert 
Allen,  of  the  class  of  '36. 


28  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Henry  W.  Benham,  Alexander  B.  Dyer,  S.  Parker 
Scammon,  Israel  Vogdes,  Edward  D.  Townsend,  William 
H.  French,  John  Sedgwick,  the  soldierly  and  steadfast 
commander  of  the  Sixth  Corps,  beloved  of  his  troops, 
Joseph  Hooker,  John  B.  S.  Todd,  of  the  class  of  '37 ; 
and  on  the  Confederate  side,  Braxton  Bragg,  Jubal  A. 
Early,  Edmond  Bradford,  and  John  C.  Pemberton. 

William  F.  Barry,  Irvin  C.  McDowell,  Robert  S. 
Granger,  Justus  McKinstry,  Charles  F.  Ruff,  and  Andrew 
J.  Smith,  of  the  class  of  '38,  and  P.  G.  T.  Beauregard, 
the  distinguished  Confederate  leader,  as  also  William  J. 
Hardee,  Edward  Johnson,  and  Alexander  W.  Reynolds. 

In  the  class  of  '40  were  the  distinguished  W.  T.  Sher- 
man, George  H.  Thomas,  George  W.  Getty,  Stewart  Van 
Vleit,  and  William  Hays ;  and  on  the  Southern  side,  John 
P.  McCawn,  Richard  S.  Ewell,  and  Bushrod  R.  Johnson. 

In  the  class  of  '41  were  Zealous  B.  Tower,  Horatio  G. 
Wright,  Amiel  W.  Whipple,  Albion  W.  Howe,  Nathaniel 
Lyon,  John  M.  Brannon,  and  Schuyler  Hamilton 

In  the  class  of  '42  were  Henry  L.  Eustis,  John  New- 
ton, William  S.  Rosecrans,  Barton  S.  Alexander,  John 
Pope,  Seth  Williams,  Abner  Doubleday,  Napoleon  J.  T. 
Dana,  Ralph  W.  Kirkham,  and  George  Sykes ;  among 
the  Confederates,  James  Longstreet,  D.  H.  Hill,  Gustavus 
W.  Smith,  Mansfield  Lovell,  Lafayette  McLaws,  and  Earl 
Van  Dorn. 

Now  fairly  entered  upon  the  life  and  duties  of  a  cadet, 
his  intense  and  ardent  nature  found  full  occupation.  His 
ambition  was  aroused.  Hard  study  agreed  with  him. 
The  days  sped  rapidly  and  pleasantly  away.  He  fell  into 
companionship  with  the  most  talented  and  high-spirited 
young  men.  Nor,  time  and  attention  all  absorbed  by 
severe  application,  did  he  sink  into  a  mere  bookworm. 
Every  morning  before  breakfast,  rain  or  shine,  he  walked 
around  the  post  for  exercise,  a  distance  of  two  miles. 


WEST  POINT  29 

He  shared,  too,  in  the  escapades  natural  to  a  free  and 
spirited  youth,  and  did  not  always  come  off  scot-free  from 
these  scrapes,  for  his  name  stands  forty-third  on  the  con- 
duct roll  for  the  first  year. 

"I  have  never  been  homesick  for  a  single  minute  since  I 
have  been  here,"  he  writes  his  sisters  Hannah  and  Elizabeth, 
September  8,  1835 ;  "  I  never  passed  three  months  more  plea- 
santly in  my  life,  and  since  I  commenced  my  studies  time  never 
seemed  more  fleeting.  We  are  obliged  to  stand  guard  once  a 
week,  drill  every  day,  have  a  dress  parade,  with  roll  calls,  etc. 
We  study  ten  and  a  half  hours  a  day,  two  and  a  half  of  which 
are  spent  in  the  recitation  room.  I  have  recited  four  lessons 
in  algebra  and  three  in  French,  and  I  think  I  can  get  my 
maximum  unless  sick,  or  otherwise  disabled,  that  is,  miss  no 
questions  in  any  of  my  studies  the  coming  year.  I  can  get 
both  of  my  lessons  in  half  an  hour,  and  I  shall  have  much 
leisure  time.  If  I  had  some  Greek  books  I  think  I  could  pass 
my  time  to  better  advantage. 

"  I  like  the  military  life  very  much.  There  is  as  fine  a  set 
of  fellows  here  as  ever  breathed  the  air.  We  study  hard,  eat 
hearty,  sleep  sound,  and  play  little.  In  camp  every  one  was 
wide  awake  for  a  scrape,  or  for  any  kind  of  fun.  But  in  bar- 
racks we  are  as  sober  and  steady  as  Quakers.  We  go  to  the 
section  room  with  long  and  solemn  faces.  I  assure  you  we 
know  that  by  study  and  severe  application  alone  we  can  keep 
our  places.  I  admire  the  spirit  which  pervades  the  whole  class. 
The  common  remark  is,  'I  intend  to  bone  it  with  all  my 
might.'  To  bone  it  means  to  study  hard.  Every  one  seems 
determined  to  rise,  or  keep  his  present  standing  at  any  rate. 
We  are  divided  in  four  sections  in  mathematics,  and  seven  in 
French,  arranged  in  alphabetical  order. .  Consequently  I  stand 
in  the  last  section  in  each.  A  transfer  will  be  made  in  the 
course  of  the  week,  those  who  do  best  being  put  in  the  higher 
sections,  and  those  who  do  worst  into  the  lower  sections.  I 
hope  to  rise  in  both.  That  I  may  do  so,  I  intend  to  get  my 
lessons  in  the  best  possible  manner.  It  shall  be  my  aim  not 
only  to  understand  my  lessons,  but  to  convince  my  instructors 
that  I  understand  them.     To  do  this  I  must  accustom  myself 


30  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

to  collect  my  ideas  readily,  to  be  free  from  embarrassment  and 
trepidation,  and  always  to  be  perfectly  calm  and  self-possessed." 

TO  HANNAH. 

November  28. 

I  am  doing  pretty  well.  My  health  is  strong  and  vigorous. 
I  am  not  only  contented  with  my  situation,  but  like  it  very 
much  indeed.  We  are  kept  tremendously  strict,  I  assure  you.  I 
was  visiting  last  Wednesday  evening,  and  they  arrested  me  for 
it,  and  did  not  release  me  until  this  evening,  and  in  addition  to 
that  they  obliged  me  to  perform  an  extra  tour  of  Sunday  guard 
duty,  which  is  very  tough,  I  assure  you,  this  cold  weather. 

Uncle  William,  it  seems,  was  disappointed  at  his  early 
standing  in  the  class,  and  wrote  him  rather  a  reproachful 
letter  of  exhortation  and  advice,  winding  up  with  the 
wish  that  he  should  stand  first  in  mathematics  by  the  end 
of  the  year.  In  reply  he  explains  that  his  first  rating 
was  low  because  his  name  came  near  the  end  of  the 
alphabet. 

West  Point,  December  5, 1835. 

Dear  Uncle,  —  Your  letter  was  received  yesterday,  and  read 
with  much  pleasure.  I  feel  gratified  that  I  still  retain  your 
confidence,  and  that  you  expect  me  to  sustain  an  honorable 
stand.  It  is  also  rather  flattering  than  otherwise  to  know  that 
you  feel  disappointed  because  I  have  nothing  more  than  a  re- 
spectable standing  in  my  class,  for  it  shows  that  your  estimate 
of  my  abilities  is  as  high  as,  perhaps  higher  than,  it  should  be. 
I  assure  you  that  your  wish  shall  be  gratified  not  only  within 
the  close  of  the  first  year,  but  within  the  first  six  months,  if  it 
is  within  my  power.  Should  my  stand  be  no  higher  than  at 
present,  you  must  not  feel  disappointed.  For  such  a  stand  is 
not  only  "very  respectable"  but  very  high  in  a  class  like  ours. 
I  beg  of  you,  however,  to  think  no  more  of  the  communication, 
because  my  stand  even  then  was  much  higher  than  19.  The 
sections  since  then  have  been  rearranged,  and  I  have  risen  very 
much.  You  must  also  recollect  that  at  first  I  was  within  seven 
of  the  foot  both  in  M.  and  F.  In  two  weeks  I  rose  25  men  in 
M.  and  30  in  F.     I  then  remained  in  the  second  section  in 


WEST  POINT  31 

mathematics  till  the  middle  of  November,  when  I  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  first  section. 

There  are  only  two  in  our  class  who  have  got  the  maximum 
at  every  recitation  both  in  M.  and  F.  since  the  commencement 
of  our  studies  ;  these  are  cadet  Biddle  from  Penn.  and  a  fellow 
from  Mass.,  whose  birthplace,  I  believe,  is  Andover.  I  am 
now  at  the  head  of  my  section  in  French.  My  present  stand- 
ing in  M.  is  as  high  as  the  highest,  and  it  is  considered  so  by 
every  member  of  my  class.  There  are  four  of  us  in  M.  who 
have  done  equally  well,  that  is,  we  have  each  of  us  got  the  maxi- 
mum, done  all  the  extras,  and  demonstrate  equally  as  well. 
Their  names  are  H.  J.  Biddle,  of  Penn.,  I.  Butler,  of  Va.,  H. 

W.  Halleck,  of  N.  Y.,  and ,  of  Mass.     I  have  often 

thought  of  the  advice  you  gave  me,  and  I  hope  I  have  profited 
by  it.  I  have  spent  two  hours  in  studying  other  authors,  and. 
in  learning  to  demonstrate  eloquently  and  with  perspicuity,  to 
every  hour  devoted  to  the  text-book.  In  French  I  have  risen 
more  than  any  other  man  in  the  class.  My  stand  at  first  was 
67th,  now  it  is  22d.  When  I  came,  I  had  scarcely  looked  into 
a  French  book  for  five  years,  and  could  not  pronounce  a  single 
syllable.  And,  believe  me,  it  is  not  egotism  which  prompts  me 
to  say  this,  but  it  is  in  order  to  put  to  rest  all  your  apprehen- 
sions on  my  account.  I  also  wish  to  assure  you  that  I  associate 
with  none  whom  I  ought  not  to  respect. 

West  Point,  December  20, 1835. 
Dear  Father,  —  You  have  probably  received  a  communica- 
tion from  the  War  Department  giving  my  stand  for  the  month 
of  November,  which  I  hope  will  give  you  better  satisfaction 
than  the  last  return.  I  think  my  general  standing  in  January 
will  be  still  better.  I  shall  be  examined  one  fortnight  from 
to-morrow,  and  I  intend  to.  do  my  best.  My  standing  will 
greatly  depend  upon  it.  At  the  examination,  each  one  has  a 
demonstration  to  perform,  besides  some  20  or  30  questions  to 
answer.  If  my  demonstration  is  good,  and  the  answers  to  all 
my  questions  are  correct,  my  stand  will  remain  in  mathematics 
at  least  as  good  as  it  was  in  November,  which,  I  presume,  is 
fourth.  In  French  I  think  I  shall  rise  considerably,  because 
my  mark  is  as  good  as  any  one's,  and  I  think  I  have  gained  the 
good-will  of  my  teacher.     Very  much  depends  upon  this.     We 


32  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

can  always  secure  their  esteem  by  being  attentive  and  respect- 
ful, and,  last  though  not  least,  by  paying  considerable  attention 
to  our  personal  appearance.  Lieutenant  Church,  my  professor 
in  mathematics,  and  Mr.  Molinard,  my  professor  in  French,  are 
both  very  fine  men  and  accomplished  teachers.  The  latter  is  a 
Frenchman. 

I  am  acquainted  with  many  Westerners,  who  generally  are 
very  fine  fellows.  They  are  generally  very  generous  and  open- 
hearted,  and  it  is  very  easy  to  get  acquainted  with  them.  There 
have  been  two  duels  fought  between  cadets  since  I  have  been 
here,  though  no  ill  consequences  followed.  In  each  case  the 
combatants  were  Westerners.  If  they  had  been  found  out,  they, 
together  with  the  seconds,  would  have  been  dismissed. 

Our  State  does  the  best  of  any  in  the  fourth  class.  There 
are  three  in  the  first  section  in  mathematics,  and  two  in  the  first 
section  in  French.  Penn.  has  two  in  each.  Henry  J.  Biddle, 
of  Penn.,  will  probably  be  head  in  mathematics  in  January. 
His  name  comes  before  those  who  have  an  equal  mark  with  him ; 
he  is  a  splendid  mathematician,  and  has  graduated  at  a  college, 
and  was  undoubtedly  better  prepared  than  any  other  member 
of  the  class.  He  will  also  be  head  in  French.  We  have  a 
splendid  collection  of  Philosophical,  Mathematical,  and  Histor- 
ical works  in  our  library.  There  is  no  difficulty  in  getting 
books,  and  I  intend  to  avail  myself  of  its  many  advantages. 
There  is  a  universal  history  of  modern  times,  consisting  of  42 
volumes.  I  am  now  reading  Kollin's  Ancient  History.  Our 
evenings  are  very  busy.    We  study  from  half  past  five  till  ten. 

It  is  noticeable  in  his  letters  that  he  finds  the  regular 
course  of  studies  very  easy,  owing  undoubtedly  not  less 
to  the  remarkable  native  powers  of  his  mind  than  to  his 
habits  of  study  and  faculty  of  intense  application.  Yet, 
as  in  boyhood,  not  content  with  the  prescribed  curriculum, 
and  spurred  on  by  his  ambition  to  achieve  the  headship  of 
his  class,  he  takes  extra  French  lessons,  spends  "two  hours 
in  studying  other  authors,  and  in  learning  to  demonstrate 
eloquently  and  with  perspicuity,  to  every  hour  devoted 
to  the  text-book,"  and  reads  Kollin's  Ancient  History. 


WEST  POINT  33 

Such  indomitable  resolution  and  energy  combined  with 
great  ability  could  not  fail.  In  six  months  he  had  gained 
a  high  place  in  the  first  section,  and  had  become  the  com- 
petitor with  three  others  for  the  leadership.  He  writes 
uncle  William,  who  has  congratulated  him  on  his  stand- 
ing, and  now  thinks  it  best  to  caution  him  against  study- 
ing too  hard :  — 

West  Point,  February  1,  1836. 

Dear  Uncle,  —  It  was  very  gratifying  to  learn  that  my 
standing  was  so  satisfactory  to  my  friends.  Since  it  has  been 
attained  by  no  extra  exertion,  it  is  incumbent  on  me  to  deserve 
to  sustain  it  for  the  future  by  strict  and  unwearied  attention  to 
all  my  academic  studies. 

Your  caution  respecting  hard  study  shall  be  observed,  for  the 
very  good  reason  that  it  is  impossible  to  do  otherwise.  The 
regulations  in  this  respect  are  very  good,  and  are  such  as  to 
secure  to  each  one  the  privilege  of  studying  as  much  as  is 
necessary,  while  it  restrains  all  from  over-exertion.  We  retire 
at  ten  and  rise  at  six.  Of  the  remaining  sixteen,  four  hours  are 
devoted  to  recreation,  meals,  etc.,  and  twelve  to  study.  Of  these 
twelve  hours,  two  and  one  half  are  spent  in  the  section  room. 
The  intercourse  between  the  cadets  is  so  free  and  uninterrupted 
that  it  is  impossible  to  study  except  during  study  hours.  Surely 
twelve  hours'  study  per  day  ought  to  injure  no  one  of  a  sound 
constitution. 

Our  class  will  have  a  society  next  fall.  Every  class,  except 
the  fourth,  has  one  or  more  societies,  which  meet  every  Satur- 
day evening.  We  have  some  very  fine  speakers  in  the  corps, 
and  many  take  great  pains  to  improve  themselves. 

You  wish  to  know  our  uniforms,  rations,  etc.  Our  uniform 
is  gray.  Our  pantaloons  are  made  as  usual,  except  a  stripe 
of  black  velvet  on  each  leg.  Cousin  Charles  can  describe  our 
coats,  which  are  the  same  both  winter  and  summer.  In  sum- 
mer we  wear  white  pants  made  of  Russia  drilling. 

Remember  me  to  all  inquiring  friends,  especially  to  grand- 
mother and  your  own  family. 

Your  nephew, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

N.  B.     Tell  our  folks  to  write  soon. 


34  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

To  his  sister  Susan :  — 

West  Point,  February  23, 1836. 

Dear  Sister,  —  Be  assured  that  advice  from  you,  and  advice 
from  all  those  whom  I  know  to  be  my  friends,  will  afford  me 
the  greatest  pleasure,  and  will  always  be  received  with  the 
most  respectful  attention.  The  disgusting  habits  of  chewing, 
smoking,  etc.,  I  abominate,  and  therefore  shall  never  indulge 
in  them.  As  for  drinks,  either  distilled  or  fermented,  I  do  not 
use  them,  because  in  the  first  place  they  cannot  be  obtained, 
and,  in  the  second  place,  I  have  no  desire  for  them.  The  fact 
of  the  case  is,  that  in  barracks  there  are  no  temptations  offered 
us  but  what  every  one  who  has  any  mind  could  easily  resist. 
In  camp  it  is  not  the  case ;  then  many  temptations  are  offered 
us,  to  which  we  are  in  great  danger  of  yielding,  since  we  have 
much  leisure.  When  a  person  has  his  whole  time  employed, 
there  is  little  danger  of  falling  into  bad  habits.  Last  fall,  when 
I  commenced  the  Algebra,  I  had  very  little  to  do,  and  came  very 
near  contracting  some  very  bad  habits,  as  sleeping  in  the  morn- 
ing, etc.,  which  at  first  required  some  little  difficulty  in  break- 
ing ;  but  now  I  do  not  think  of  such  a  thing,  not  even  Sunday 
mornings,  and  I  often  rise  at  four  or  five  o'clock.  This  is  owing 
to  having  hard  lessons  to  get.  You  mention  that  you  are  study- 
ing Latin  and  like  it  very  much.  I  have  but  one  caution  to 
give  you  on  this  subject,  which  is,  get  your  grammar  perfectly. 
Everything  depends  upon  this.  You  can  never  make  a  good 
Latin  scholar  unless  you  know  everything  about  the  grammar. 
Since  you  are  studying  French,  I  intend  next  encampment  to 
write  you  a  letter  in  French,  which  you  must  answer,  and  we 
will  correct  each  other.  "We  use  Levisac's  Grammar,  and  at 
every  lesson  get  about  half  a  page  of  exercises,  and  are  obliged 
to  get  them  so  that  we  can  write  any  sentence  our  Prof,  gives 
us  upon  the  blackboard  without  referring  to  the  books.  We 
are  now  writing  sentences  upon  the  pronomial  verbs.  We  get 
for  our  translation  eight  pages  in  Charles  XII.  per  day.  Our 
teacher,  Mr.  Bevard  (the  author  of  the  French  Lessons),  is  a 
very  good  linguist,  and  the  most  thorough  teacher  I  ever  was 
under.  He  is  very  particular  about  our  pronunciation,  and  cor- 
rects us  very  frequently.  I  think  by  June  I  shall  be  able  to 
pronounce  French  pretty  well  and  read  it  fluently,  and  shall 
endeavor  to  rise  considerably. 


WEST  POINT  35 

You  must  write  whenever  you  can  find  it  convenient,  and 
your  letters  shall  always  be  punctually  answered.  I  observe 
that  you  pay  the  postage.  I  wish  that  you  would  allow  me  to 
pay  it,  as  I  think  I  am  better  able  to  do  it  than  you.  Remem- 
ber me  to  all  inquiring  friends. 

Your  brother, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 
Miss  S.  B.  Stevens. 

His  letters  show  the  maturity  of  the  mind  and  judg- 
ment of  the  youth  of  seventeen,  and  exhibit  a  slight 
formality  and  precision  that  indicates  that  he  was  taking 
pains  in  the  composition.  His  correspondence  must  have 
taken  no  little  time.  His  great,  warm  heart  went  out 
towards  all  his  relations,  and  he  was  frequently  writing 
to  his  uncle  William,  and  his  cousins  in  Andover  and 
Salem,  Mass.,  in  Albany,  Maine,  and  in  Nashville,  Tenn. 
He  wrote  constantly  to  his  father  and  sisters,  keenly  alive 
to  their  welfare  and  happiness.  The  latter  were  beginning 
to  scatter  widely  from  the  paternal  roof -tree.  Hannah, 
the  eldest,  was  at  Haverhill,  earning  her  livelihood.  Susan 
was  attending  the  female  seminary  at  the  South  Parish 
(Andover);  Mary  was  at  Methuen,  at  Mr.  Stephen  Bar- 
ker's ;  and  only  Sarah  and  Elizabeth  remained  at  home. 
Deeply  sympathizing  with  them,  he  comforts  them,  urges 
them  to  treat  their  stepmother  with  respect,  and  touch- 
ingly  alludes  to  their  father's  unfortunate  condition,  his 
growing  infirmities,  and  his  sincere  affection  for  and 
devotion  to  his  children. 

The  first  academic  year  rolled  rapidly  away.  One 
day,  as  the  examination  drew  near,  Halleck  and  Biddle 
were  comparing  notes  as  to  the  prospects.  "  That  little 
Stevens,"  said  the  former,  "is  driving  ahead  like  the 
devil,  and  he  is  sure  to  be  first  in  mathematics.  I  don't 
think  he  can  beat  me  in  French,  at  any  rate."  "  And 
I  am  sure,"  rejoined  Biddle,  "  that  he  cannot  touch  me 


36  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

in  drawing  next  year.  One  thing  I  have  made  up  my 
mind  to,  —  if  he  gains  the  head  of  the  class  over  me, 
I  shall  resign."  This  dialogue  was  overheard,  and  re- 
peated to  "  little  Stevens,"  who  related  it  in  after  years 
with  some  amusement. 

He  had  pursued  his  object  with  unflagging  zeal,  energy, 
and  determination  during  the  year,  but,  reflecting  how 
heavily  he  was  handicapped  in  the  race  by  men  like 
Biddle,  Butler,  and  Halleek,  so  much  older  and  farther 
advanced  in  their  studies  at  the  beginning,  he  might 
well  feel  anxious.  He  entered  the  examination  room,  as 
he  describes  it,  cool  and  collected,  with  nerves  high- 
strung  yet  under  perfect  control,  and  fully  determined  to 
come  out  ahead.  He  was  not  disappointed.  He  rose  to 
the  first  place,  —  a  place,  once  achieved,  which  no  com- 
petitor was  to  wrest  from  him. 

Camp  Jones,  July  6, 1836. 

Dear  Uncle,  —  I  received  your  letter  by  Mr.  Johnson,  and 
although  short  it  was  very  acceptable.  .  .  .  We  had  a  fine 
time  on  the  Fourth  of  July,  an  oration,  dinner,  etc.  I  had  a 
great  desire  to  spend  the  Fourth  at  New  York  city.  I  applied 
and  obtained  a  leave  of  two  days,  commencing  on  Sunday  noon 
and  ending  on  Tuesday ;  had  a  very  fine  time,  —  went  to  the 
Navy  Yard,  Brooklyn,  got  introduced  to  about  half  a  dozen 
midshipmen,  etc.  The  military  were  out,  as  well  as  several 
societies.  In  the  evening  I  went  to  the  theatre,  where  Celeste 
danced  as  usual. 

Since  we  have  been  in  camp  we  have  had  a  very  easy  time, 
nothing  to  do  but  go  on  guard  two  or  three  times  per  week, 
attend  roll  calls  and  dress  parades.  Next  week  we  will  be 
drilled  three  times  per  day  as  well  as  recite  in  infantry  tactics, 
and  attend  the  dancing-school.  I  have  come  to  the  determina- 
tion to  study  French  this  encampment :  shall  commence  next 
week.  I  cannot  reasonably  expect  to  keep  my  present  standing 
in  that  branch  unless  I  exert  myself.  I  can  translate  quite 
readily,  but  I  write  quite  indifferently,  and  can  speak  it  but 
very  little,  whereas  there  are  three  immediately  below  me  who 


WEST  POINT  37 

can  read,  write,  and  speak  the  language  very  well.  Why  the 
Board  placed  me  above  them  is  more  than  I  can  conceive. 
Two  of  them  have  told  me  they  would  rise  me,  and  I  have  told 
them  they  should  not  do  it.  If  they  do  rise  me,  I  shall  not 
complain ;  and  if  they  do  not,  so  much  the  better.  As  to  mathe- 
matics, I  have  no  cause  for  fear,  —  both  Biddle  and  Halleck 
admit  I  ought  to  stand  head,  and  my  professor  had  no  doubts 
about  who  should  be  placed  there.  As  soon  as  we  reenter  bar- 
racks, we  commence  drawing.  Success  in  this  branch  depends 
as  much  (and  perhaps  even  more)  upon  persevering  applica- 
tion as  on  a  natural  taste.  I  intend  to  do  my  very  best,  other- 
wise I  shall  fall  very  much  in  general  merit,  even  should  I 
keep  my  standing  in  other  branches.  Biddle  will  stand  head, 
or  near  the  head,  in  D.,  as  he  now  draws  very  well.  If  he  was 
third  in  D.  and  I  was  twelfth,  he  would  rise  me  in  general 
merit.  Our  merit  rolls  will  be  published  in  about  two  weeks. 
I  am  entitled  to  five,  and  shall  send  one  home.  In  this  roll  the 
standing  of  every  cadet,  the  class  to  which  he  belongs,  and  the 
number  of  his  demerits  are  published.  Mass.  stands  better  in 
my  class  than  any  other  State.  Greene  and  Grafton,  both  from 
Boston,  stand  ninth  and  tenth.  But  there  was  one  from  Salem 
found  deficient  in  French,  although  he  passed  well  in  M.  I 
think  he  is  a  smart  fellow,  and  will  stand  high  next  year.  His 
name  is  Humber.  He  had  been  a  sailor  for  six  years,  and 
French  came  very  hard  to  him  by  reason  of  the  very  limited 
knowledge  he  had  of  language.  I  suppose  that  the  farmers 
must  have  begun  haying  in  good  earnest.  I  should  much  prefer 
working  on  a  farm  for  two  or  three  months  to  the  life  I  now 
lead.  It  is  now  thirteen  months  since  I  have  done  any  work  to 
which  I  have  hitherto  been  accustomed,  and  I  shall  probably 
soon  get  my  hand  out.  Many  of  the  cadets,  chiefly  those  who 
come  from  the  slavery  States,  have  a  great  contempt  for  our 
Yankee  farmers,  and  even  pretend  to  compare  them  with  their 
slaves.  They  have  the  greatest  contempt  for  all  those  who  gain 
a  subsistence  by  the  sweat  of  their  brows.  For  my  own  part  I 
shall  always  respect  every  man  who  is  honest  and  industrious, 
and  more  particularly  those  who  live  in  the  manner  that  has 
been  ordained  by  God  himself ;  and  whenever  any  man,  in 
conversation  with  me  or  in  my  hearing,  compares  that  class,  of 


38  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

which  I  am  proud  to  be  one,  with  slaves,  I  shall  always  consider 
it  as  an  insult  offered  to  myself,  and  shall  act  accordingly.  Re- 
member me  to  all  inquiring  friends.     Write  when  convenient. 

Your  nephew, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

Wm.  Stevens,  Esq. 

Camp  Jones,  West  Point,  August  16, 1836. 

Dear  Uncle,  —  You  probably  have  seen  most  of  my  letters 
that  I  have  written  home  this  encampment ;  you  will  see  that  I 
have  taken  things  fair  and  easy,  and  have  had  quite  a  pleasant 
time.  I  can  always  get  a  permission  to  walk  into  the  country 
whenever  I  ask  for  it,  so  that,  between  attending  my  military 
duties,  dancing,  rambling  about  in  the  country,  and  reading 
novels,  I  could  not  do  otherwise  than  pass  my  time  pleasantly. 
I  cut  rather  a  sorry  figure  dancing,  as  might  be  expected,  but 
there  is  a  chance  for  improvement,  which  I  intend  to  make  the 
best  of. 

There  is  a  standing  society  in  the  corps  called  the  Dialectic 
Society.  Ten  or  fifteen  persons  are  selected  from  each  class 
except  the  fourth  class,  so  that  it  consists  of  forty  or  fifty 
members.  The  society  is  continued  by  selecting  the  above 
number  from  every  new  class  after  it  has  been  here  one  year. 
I  intend  to  get  elected  into  it,  if  possible.  They  have  a  fine 
collection  of  books  to  the  amount  of  several  hundred  volumes. 
There  are  also  many  fine  speakers  in  it,  and  many  of  them  take 
great  pains  to  improve  themselves,  even  to  the  neglect  of  their 
studies.  This  is  unquestionably  bad  policy.  It  is  losing  a 
dollar  for  the  sake  of  saving  a  sixpence ;  but  there  is  no  kind 
of  difficulty  in  paying  proper  attention  to  our  studies,  and 
improving  ourselves  in  writing  and  speaking :  by  writing,  I  of 
course  mean  composing.  If  you  will  examine  our  merit  rolls, 
you  will  see  that  Jennings  and  Halbert,  of  the  second  class,  are 
among  the  deficients.  These  men  were  decidedly  the  best  writ- 
ers in  the  class,  and  the  former  was  the  orator  on  the  Fourth 
of  July.  As  it  is  always  better  to  act  than  to  talk,  so  they 
have  missed  it  in  neglecting  their  studies  in  order  to  become 
good  speakers. 

As  I  stand  head  in  French,  you  may  possibly  suppose  I  can 
speak  the  language.     Such  is  not  the  case ;  but  one  thing  is 


WEST  POINT  39 

certain,  I  am  determined  to  be  able  to  speak  it  one  year  from 

this  time.     But  how  I  shall  do  it  is  another  thing.     I  can  write 

it  some,  but  it  will  require  great  pains  to  be  able  to  write  it 

correctly  and  speak  it  fluently.    Neither  time  nor  patience  shall 

be  wanting  on  my  part  in  order  to  accomplish  both  the  above 

objects.     As  soon  as  we  commence  studying,  I  intend  to  have  a 

talk  with  Mr.  Bevard,  the  head  teacher  in  French,  and  a  most 

estimable  man,  about  it,  and  do  as  he  directs  me. 

In  return  for  this  I  shall  expect  a  good  long  letter,  telling 

me  all  the  news  and  giving  me  good  advice.     Remember  me  to 

all  inquiring  friends,  to  Aunt  Eliza,  and  cousins  Eliza,  William, 

Susan,  and  George. 

I  remain  your  nephew, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 
Wm.  Stevens,  Esq. 

West  Point,  September  1,  1836. 

Dear  Father,  —  In  my  letters  you  often  have  me  write 

about  my  leave  next  year.     I  look  forward  to  this  with  a  great 

deal  of  pleasure.     As  you  may  well  suppose,  I  want  to  see  my 

friends  very  much.     How  long  a  leave  had  I  better  get?     I 

can  have  ten  weeks  if  I  choose,  or  a  shorter  time.     I  am  now  a 

corporal,  and  shall  probably  be  made  a  sergeant  next  June. 

If  I  get  a  leave  of  ten  weeks,  I  cannot  keep  my  office.     But  if 

I  retain  it,  my  leave  will  not  exceed  four  or  five  weeks ;  but  to 

make  up  for  this  I  could  get  as  long  a  leave  the  year  after ; 

whereas,  if  I  resigned  my  office  and  took  the  ten  weeks'  leave,  I 

could  get  no  leave  the  next  encampment.    The  office  now  is  not 

worth  much,  but  it  is  very  well  to  have  it  when  I  am  in  the 

first  class,  for  then  I  shall  be  made  a  lieutenant,  if  my  conduct 

is  good.     What  had  I  best  do  ?     If  I  continue  to  be  head  in 

mathematics,  there  is  a  chance  of  my  being  made  an  assistant 

professor  in  M.  next  year.     Two  of  the  cadet  professors  will 

then  graduate,  and  their  places  will  have  to  be  filled.     I  do  not 

think,  however,  it  is  best  to  place  any  dependence  upon  it.     If 

there  was  an  even  chance  of  my  being  made  such,  I  would  not 

hesitate  about  resigning  my  office,  if  you  should  think  it  best 

to  obtain  a  leave  of  ten  weeks. 

Your  son, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 
Mr.  Isaac  Stevens. 


40  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

West  Point,  September  2, 1836. 

Dear  Father,  —  Yesterday  we  commenced  our  studies. 
We  entered  the  barracks  the  30th  of  August.  The  ball  on  the 
29th  was  a  most  splendid  one,  and  the  hall  was  very  full.  We 
made  use  of  the  mess-hall,  which  was  decorated  in  fine  style. 
Our  band  was  present,  and  their  performances  served  to  in- 
crease their  reputation.  The  ball  was  continued  until  after 
three  o'clock,  but  I  did  not  remain  after  half  past  one.  It 
was  estimated  that  nearly  six  hundred  visitors  were  present. 
As  this  is  the  only  thing  of  the  kind  we  have  during  the  year, 
the  corps  take  unusual  pains  to  have  everything  done  in  the 
best  manner,  and  great  care  was  taken  that  the  whole  should 
present  quite  a  military  appearance.  Many  of  the  lamps  were 
encircled  by  brightly  burnished  bayonets,  which  served  as 
reflectors.  Directly  in  front  of  the  hall  was  a  battery  of  can- 
non, in  rear  of  which  sentinels  were  stationed  to  keep  off  those 
who  had  no  right  to  be  present.  I  enjoyed  myself  very  much, 
and  took  part  in  several  cotillions. 

We  marched  into  barracks  the  day  after  the  ball,  and  were 
allowed  a  day  or  two  to  arrange  things.  My  situation  is  much 
different  now  from  what  it  was  one  year  since.  Now  I  have 
attained  a  situation  which  then  I  scarcely  hoped  for.  Now  I 
am  surrounded  with  my  classmates  and  friends,  when  one  year 
since  I  had  no  friends ;  for  we  were  strangers  to  each  other, 
and  consequently  displayed  that  cold  civility,  and  uttered  those 
unmeaning  compliments,  which  distinguish  the  intercourse  of 
strangers.  One  year  since  I  was  unknown  to  the  officers  of 
the  institution ;  now  I  trust  I  have  secured  the  confidence  and 
esteem  of  those  with  whom  I  have  come  in  contact.  Then  I 
was  a  poor  plebe,  who  had  not  passed  his  January  examination ; 
now  I  no  longer  bear  that  title,  but  possess  the  privileges  and 
the  name  of  an  old  cadet. 

The  fourth  class  is  a  very  large  one,  upwards  of  a  hundred. 
Next  June  I  do  not  believe  upwards  of  sixty  will  be  left,  and  it 
is  doubtful  whether  upwards  of  forty-five  graduate,  so  many 
are  found  deficient  and  discharged.  My  room-mates  are  the 
same  as  last  year,  with  the  exception  of  Mr.  Bacon.  I  think 
we  shall  always  room  together,  at  least  I  hope  so.  Both  Car- 
penter and  Callender  are  hard  students  and  steady  fellows. 


WEST  POINT  41 

The  former  is  a  very  smart  man.  The  latter  you  will  find,  by 
reference  to  some  of  my  old  letters,  roomed  with  me  before 
January,  resigned,  and  was  reappointed  this  year.  I  do  not 
expect  to  stand  first  next  January,  but  think  my  standing  will 
not  be  below  second.  Drawing  will  come  hard  to  me,  and  I  shall 
stand  quite  low  the  first  three  or  four  months.  No  efforts  of 
my  own  shall  be  wanting  to  secure  a  good  standing  in  this 
branch.  We  spend  six  hours  per  week  in  the  drawing  acad- 
emy, but  I  intend  to  practice  twelve  hours  per  week  in  my 
own  room. 

Your  son, 

Isaac  A.  Stevens. 
Mr.  Isaac  Stevens. 

From  early  boyhood  General  Stevens  made  a  strong 
impression  upon  every  one  he  met.  Undersized,  and* at 
first  glance  insignificant  in  appearance,  his  intense  indi- 
viduality and  intellect  were  always  deeply  felt.  At  once 
he  commanded  the  respect  of  the  professors  at  the  acad- 
emy ;  and  their  recollections  of  him,  and  of  his  charac- 
teristics, were  still  vivid  after  the  lapse  of  forty  years, 
and  the  continual  passing  of  an  army  of  youth  before 
their  eyes.  Said  Professor  W.  H.  C.  Bartlett,  July  16, 
1877,  who  was  professor  of  natural  and  experimental 
philosophy  :  — 

"  General  Stevens  was  a  small,  undersized  young  man  when 
he  entered  West  Point,  very  modest  in  demeanor.  He  had 
the  habit  of  speaking  carefully  and  distinctly,  and  of  clearly 
and  precisely  expressing  the  exact  idea  he  wished  to  convey. 
His  mind  was  comprehensive,  given  to  generalizations ;  he  had 
the  faculty  of  generalizing,  of  always  thinking  out  first  prin- 
ciples. In  solving  a  mathematical  problem,  he  would  apply  the 
principles  which  governed  the  class  of  problems,  and  not  simply 
seek  a  solution  of  the  single  one  before  him.  He  was  very 
early  regarded  by  the  faculty  as  a  man  of  great  talent  and 
promise,  sure  to  take  a  high  stand  in  his  class  and  in  the  world. 
He  was'  popular  with  his  class,  but  his  popularity  arose  more 
from  their  opinion  of  his  abilities  than  from  social  qualities.  The 


42  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

professors  soon  felt  that  whatever  he  said  was  worthy  of  atten- 
tion. I  recollect  that  he  took  an  active  part  in  the  Dialectic 
Society,  and  recollect  his  moving  the  books  'and  busying  him- 
self in  the  room.  Biddle  was  his  competitor  for  the  headship 
of  the  class,  and  after  he  left  there  was  practically  no  one  to 
contest  the  honors  with  him. 

"  Halleck's  was  an  entirely  different  mind  from  Stevens's,  — 
less  comprehensive,  less  devoted  to  original  research,  to  prin- 
ciples.    Halleck  was  strong  in  history,  in  precedents. 

"  I  recollect  Stevens's  answer  when  a  witness  before  a  court 
of  inquiry,  —  how  he  knew  that  a  party  had  done  so  and  so,  —  if 
he  had  said  so.  '  No,'  replied  he,  '  he  did  not  say  so,  but  what 
he  said  and  his  manner  combined  convinced  me  of  the  fact; 
and  the  manner  is  a  great  part  of  any  conversation.'  When 
he  graduated,  he  stood  not  only  at  the  head  of  his  class,  but 
among  the  highest  that  ever  graduated  from  the  academy." 

Professor  A.  E.  Church  (of  mathematics)  writes  July 

27,  1877  :  — 

"  My  recollection  of  your  father  as  a  cadet  at  West  Point  is 
very  vivid.  I  remember  him  as  an  earnest,  industrious  student, 
strictly  attentive  to  every  duty.  He  possessed  mathematical 
talents  of  the  highest  order,  standing  in  this  branch,  as  in  every 
other,  at  the  head  of  his  class,  notwithstanding  rival  classmates 
of  great  abilities.  A  distinguishing  trait  which  he  possessed  in 
a  remarkable  degree,  and,  from  what  I  know  of  his  after  life, 
continued  ever  prominent,  was  an  unhesitating  readiness  to 
apply  and  carry  on  strictly  and  systematically  every  principle 
he  had  learned,  never  failing  to  come  to  the  right  result. 

"  While  others  were  pondering  over  the  intricacies  of  a 
mathematical  proposition,  often  in  vain  seeking  some  shorter 
way  or  more  curious  result,  he  seemed  at  once  to  grasp  the  most 
practicable  rule,  and  straight  onward  to  pursue  it  to  an  end 
which  admitted  of  no  doubt. 

"  Though  admirably  adapted  for  a  military  commander  and 
great  engineer,  had  he  selected  the  profession  of  the  law  he 
would  have  been  prominent  among  the  most  distinguished  law- 
yers of  the  age.  His  early  death  was  a  serious  loss  to  the  army 
and  country,  and  with  his  many  friends  was  sincerely  mourned 
by  myself." 


WEST  POINT  43 

The  grasp  and  thoroughness  of  his  mind,  his  power 
of  generalization,  of  seeking  and  mastering  first  princi- 
ples, which  Mr.  Hazen  remarked  in  the  boy,  impressed 
the  West  Point  professors,  too,  as  the  prominent  mental 
characteristic  of  the  youth. 

Says  General  Zealous  B.  Tower :  — 

"  I  roomed  with  Cadet  Stevens  for  four  months  in  one  of  the 
small  rooms  in  the  south  barracks.  Stephen  D.  Carpenter  was 
the  other  occupant  of  that  limited  living  and  bed  room.  Each 
cadet  was  provided  with  a  small  mattress,  to  be  spread  upon 
the  floor  when  needed,  and  when  unoccupied  to  be  rolled  up 
in  its  canvas,  well  strapped,  and  put  into  a  corner  of  the  room. 
Later,  iron  bedsteads  were  introduced,  but  the  mattresses  were 
never  unrolled  and  spread  until  the  hour  for  retiring.  A  cadet 
inspector  visited  the  rooms  half  an  hour  after  reveille  ;  the  offi- 
cer of  the  day  also  inspected  them,  and  the  company  officers 
also  went  the  rounds.  Tattoo  at  9.30  p.  m.  was  the  signal  for 
retiring,  and  taps  at  ten  p.  M.  for  putting  out  all  lights,  when 
one  of  the  officers  again  inspected  each  '  stoup,'  or  floor,  of 
the  barracks. 

"  Stevens's  duties  as  assistant  professor  of  mathematics  occu- 
pied an  hour  and  a  half  each  day,  taking  that  portion  of  time 
from  his  study  hours  ;  but  it  did  not  interfere  with  his  studies, 
for  he  possessed  quick  intelligence,  and  great  concentration  of  his 
mental  powers.  This  faculty  was  very  pronounced,  and  would 
have  given  him  distinction  in  any  profession  that  he  might  have 
undertaken,  and  the  more  so  that  it  was  allied  to  industrious 
habits  and  an  enthusiastic  nature.  He  never  plodded  over  his 
lessons,  but  often  finished  them  in  half  the  time  allotted  to  their 
acquisition.  Stevens  was  a  pleasant  room-mate,  being  very 
genial,  kind,  and  considerate  to  others.  He  never  failed  in  his 
friendships,  or  in  anything  that  appeared  a  duty  to  his  fellows. 
He  was  popular  among  those  of  his  associates  who  valued  ster- 
ling, manly  qualities,  and  among  the  most  prominent  members 
of  his  corps.  He  spoke  rapidly  when  a  matter  of  interest 
engaged  his  attention,  for  he  thought  rapidly.  Though  rather 
short  in  stature,  his  large  head  and  very  expressive,  intelligent 
eyes  made  him  noticeable  and  attractive  in  conversation,  engag- 


44  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

ing  the  marked  attention  of  his  auditors.  His  enthusiasm  and 
strong  convictions  gave  an  energy  to  his  manner  of  discussing 
favorite  topics  that  lent  the  charm  of  eloquence  to  his  speech." 

West  Point,  March  11, 1836. 

Dear  Father,  —  Last  week  we  commenced  Calculus.  This 
is  considered  the  most  difficult  branch  of  mathematics.  Our 
text-book  is  a  compilation  from  the  most  distinguished  French 
mathematicians  by  Professor  Davies.  We  have  about  ten 
pages  per  lesson,  and  will  be  about  five  weeks  going  through  it. 
We  next  study  surveying,  which  ends  our  course  in  mathe- 
matics. 

Since  the  examination  I  have  attended  the  drawing  academy 
every  day,  the  regular  attendance  being  every  other  day.  Were 
I  two  files  higher  in  this  branch,  it  would  put  me  head  in  gen- 
eral merit.  I  am  now  drawing  our  Saviour,  represented  as  a 
child.  I  have  been  at  work  on  it  for  about  four  weeks.  It 
will  probably  take  me  eight  weeks  more  to  finish  it.  It  is  very 
slow  work,  I  assure  you,  but  as  our  standing  depends  entirely 
upon  the  excellence  and  not  upon  the  number  of  pieces,  I 
consider  the  time  is  not  lost,  provided  what  I  do  is  done  well. 

It  seems  there  is  a  very  great  excitement  in  Congress  respect- 
ing the  slavery  question.  It  must  afford  pleasure  to  every 
friend  of  free  discussion  to  learn  that  the  South  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  the  resolutions  censuring  Mr.  Adams.  At  the  same 
time,  I  think  he  is  unnecessarily  agitating  this  dangerous  ques- 
tion, and  that  his  zeal  will  tend  to  awaken  only  feelings  and 
desires  which  should  never  be  cherished.  Is  not  the  dissolu- 
tion of  the  Union  a  subject  of  fearful  foreboding  ?  Ought  then 
the  sages  of  our  land  like  Mr.  Adams  at  this  time  to  agitate  a 
question  which  in  the  opinion  of  the  South  infringes  upon  their 
rights,  and  which,  inflexible  as  we  know  them  to  be  in  their 
maintenance,  will  cause  them  to  look  upon  a  secession  from  the 
Union  as  the  only  means  of  preserving  them  ?  The  South  are 
sensible  of  the  evils  of  slavery.  They  deplore  the  existence  of 
this  curse,  entailed  upon  them  against  their  consent  by  the  arbi- 
trary decrees  of  England,  and  I  believe  that  (if  left  to  them- 
selves) they  will  adopt  some  measures  to  rid  themselves  of  it. 

Your  son, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 


*^T 


INFANT  JESUS 

Crayon  drawing  at  West  Point 


WEST  POINT  45 

West  Point,  March  5, 1836. 

Dear  Sister,  —  I  received  your  letter  this  morning  inform- 
ing me  of  aunt  Eliza's  death.  She  was  certainly  the  finest 
woman  I  ever  knew,  and  the  remembrance  of  her  engaging 
qualities  will  long  be  cherished.  Uncle  William  is  very  much 
to  be  pitied. 

Have  you  any  school  in  view  now  for  next  summer  ?  You  also 
appear  to  be  very  much  interested  in  Latin.  I  detested  Latin 
when  I  first  commenced  to  study  it,  but  I  soon  brought  myself 
to  like  it.  So  it  is  with  drawing.  I  take  more  pleasure  in 
drawing  than  in  anything  else.  I  like  it  full  as  well  as  reading 
novels.  In  my  last  you  will  recollect  that  I  wrote  of  the  piece 
I  was  then  drawing.  I  have  now  got  it  most  half  done.  I  was 
all  last  week  (two  hours  per  day)  drawing  one  eye,  a  part  of 
another  one,  and  one  curl  of  hair.  You  can  see  by  this  that  I 
draw  very  slowly,  much  slower  than  any  one  in  my  class.  The 
time  spent  in  the  drawing  academy  seems  shorter  than  any 
other  part  of  the  day,  and  I  have  not  yet  felt  any  impatience  at 
my  slowness  in  drawing  since  I  have  commenced  my  last  piece, 
a  sure  sign  that  I  like  it  very  much. 

Your  brother, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

Miss  Susan  B.  Stevens. 

Dear  Sister  Elizabeth,  —  You  spoke  of  Mr.  Maynard 
thinking  I  ought  to  be  content  with  my  present  standing,  and 
ought  not  to  expect  to  stand  higher.  Be  that  as  it  may,  one 
thing  is  certain,  that  I  will  never  cease  to  try  for  number  one  till 
I  have  got  it  again,  and  were  I  convinced  that  it  was  almost  an 
impossibility,  I  would  still  try.  I  like  the  reply  of  General  Miller 
to  his  superior  officer  in  the  last  war,  when,  being  directed  to 
attack  and  carry  a  battery  of  cannon  on  an  almost  inaccessible 
eminence,  the  silencing  of  which  was  indispensable,  made  this 
answer  only,  '  I  will  try,'  and  with  the  most  determined  cour- 
age carried  it  in  an  almost  incredibly  short  space  of  time.  I 
don't  like  backing  out ;  it  is  contemptible.  I  shall,  however,  be 
contented  with  whatever  standing  is  given  me,  and  since  I  have 
been  here  I  have  always  endeavored  to  prepare  myself  for  any 
contingency.  This  is  absolutely  necessary.  It  is  the  only  way 
to  guard  against  envy,  jealousy,  and  all  those  mean  and  degrad- 


46  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

ing  passions  to  which  the  human  heart  is  prone.  Harry  Biddle 
and  myself  are  now  the  only  members  of  our  class  who  are  con- 
tending for  head,  yet  I  don't  believe  there  are  two  men  in  the 
class  on  better  terms.  He  is  one  of  the  finest  young  men  I  ever 
knew ;  and  although  he  was  very  much  disappointed  last  June, 
he  never  uttered  a  word  showing  he  harbored  the  least  ill-will 
against  me.  When  the  result  of  the  June  examination  was 
known,  he  came  and  congratulated  me,  but  told  me  he  meant  to 
rise  me.  In  January  it  appeared  he  had  redeemed  his  word, 
and  so  I  went  and  congratulated  him,  and  balanced  the  account. 
This  is  the  only  way  to  get  along,  for  if  we  allow  those  passions 
I  have  mentioned  to  obtain  the  least  ascendency  over  us,  it  will 
render  us  disagreeable  and  unhappy.  There  are  eleven  of  us  in 
four  rooms,  which  are  contiguous  to  each  other,  who  are  all 
good  friends,  and  we  enjoy  ourselves  as  much  as  any  other  eleven 
men  in  the  corps. 

At  the  end  of  the  second  academic  year  he  again  stood 
head  of  his  class,  and  had  the  pleasure  of  announcing  his 
success  to  his  father.  He  stood  seventeen  on  the  con- 
duct roll,  having  eleven  demerits. 

West  Point,  June  18, 1836. 
Deak  Father,  —  I  received  a  letter  from  Oliver  a  few  days 
since.  He  says  he  is  "  going  a-gunning  "  on  his  birthday,  and 
wishes  me  to  be  at  home  to  keep  him  company.  I  wish  this 
could  be  the  case,  but  under  present  circumstances  I  shall  not 
come  home  until  the  last  of  July,  and  my  leave  will  last  but 
four  weeks  only.  I  did  not  know  this  till  about  a  week  ago, 
and  I  have  deferred  writing  to  be  able  to  give  you  my  stand- 
ing. The  examination  was  closed  yesterday.  My  standing  is 
first  in  mathematics,  first  in  French,  and  fourth  in  drawing, 
which  puts  me  head  in  general  merit.  Mr.  Biddle  is  second  in 
M.,  third  in  F.,  and  first  in  D.  I  presume  you  will  be  satisfied 
with  this.  You  recollect  that  Mr.  Biddle  rose  me  in  French 
last  January,  and  I  suppose  that  rising  him  again  this  June 
will  make  it  all  right  again.  I  had  very  good  luck  indeed,  and 
my  recitation  in  mathematics  was  much  better  than  at  any  pre- 
vious examination.  We  march  into  camp  on  Tuesday.  It  is 
to  be  called  Camp  Poinsett,  as  a  compliment  to  the  Secretary  of 
War. 


WEST  POINT  47 

In  July  he  returned  home,  after  an  absence  of  two 
years,  to  spend  the  brief  leave  of  a  month.  He  had  fore- 
gone one  the  previous  year,  partly  on  the  score  of  econ- 
omy, at  his  father's  suggestion,  and  it  was  with  a  heart 
full  of  joy  and  glad  anticipations  that  he  hastened  to 
visit  the  loved  ones  at  home,  and  the  dear  and  familiar 
scenes  of  his  childhood. 

Isaac  must  have  keenly  enjoyed  this  visit.  His  sis- 
ters were  proud  of  him,  and  overjoyed  at  his  return. 
He  had  surpassed  the  most  sanguine  hopes  of  his  friends, 
and  on  every  hand  met  with  a  warm  welcome.  His  suc- 
cess at  the  academy,  his  cadet  uniform,  and  his  erect, 
soldierly  bearing  invested  him  in  the  eyes  of  the  commu- 
nity with  the  new-found  respect  and  importance  accorded 
to  rising  and  promising  young  manhood.  His  cousin 
Henry,  writing  after  his  return  to  the  Point,  says :  "  If 
you  look  as  dignified  as  you  did  when  you  were  here,  I  do 
not  wonder  that  you  are  beyond  suspicion.  I  should  like 
very  much  to  see  one  hundred  cadets  playing  at  football. 
Do  you  run  as  erect  as  you  walk  ?  "  West  Point  drill  and 
discipline,  however,  had  not  abated  his  adventurous  spirit, 
or  love  of  the  sports  natural  to  his  age.  Sailing  on  the 
Great  Pond  with  a  number  of  companions,  and  the  wind 
having  died  out,  for  pastime  he  climbed  to  the  top  of  the 
mast,  which  suddenly  broke  and  let  him  fall  headlong 
into  the  lake.  On  another  occasion  he  was  poling  a  boat 
with  his  little  brother  up  the  Cochichewick  towards  the 
"Hatch,"  as  the  point  where  the  stream  flowed  out  of 
the  Great  Pond  was  called,  when  the  oar  stuck  fast  in  the 
tenacious  mud  of  the  bottom,  and,  grasping  it  too  firmly, 
Isaac  lost  his  foothold,  and  was  dragged  over  the  stern 
into  the  mingled  mud  and  water,  to  the  sad  defilement  of 
his  speckless  white  cadet  trousers.  Exasperated  at  this 
ridiculous  accident,  he  swore  lustily,  calling  upon  Oliver 
in  no  gentle  tones  to  bring  back  the  boat. 


CHAPTEE  IV 

WEST   POINT. LAST    TWO    YEARS 

Returning  to  the  Point  after  this  brief  respite,  the 
young  cadet  resumed  his  studies  with  his  accustomed 
vigor.  He  was  appointed  assistant  professor  of  mathe- 
matics, a  position  of  additional  labor  as  well  as  honor, 
which  he  retained  to  the  end  of  his  course.  Moreover, 
he  took  an  active  part  in  the  Dialectic  Society,  which  as 
a  "  plebe  "  he  looked  forward  to  joining.  In  a  letter  to 
Mr.  Hazen  he  recounts  his  early  efforts  in  debate :  — 

"  You  are  probably  aware  that  we  have  a  debating  society 
here,  of  which  I  have  the  honor  to  be  a  member.  Last  evening 
(we  hold  our  meetings  on  Saturday  evenings)  we  had  an  ani- 
mated debate  on  the  expediency  of  studying  the  dead  lan- 
guages. It  was  the  only  tolerable  one  we  have  had  this  fall. 
Some  pretty  good  speeches  were  made.  One  was  particularly 
fine.  Mr.  Jennings,  the  person  to  whom  I  allude,  in  my  opin- 
ion was  made  for  an  orator.  He  is  undoubtedly  a  man  of  a 
large  mind,  and  expresses  himself  admirably.  His  delivery  is 
very  good,  and  his  diction  is  choice  and  effective.  Declamation 
is  one  of  the  regular  exercises ;  and  as  my  turn  came  round,  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  unburdening  myself  of  a  short  piece,  and  of 
being  most  woefully  used  up  by  the  critical,  who  are  regularly 
appointed  for  such  performance.  This  is  not  very  encouraging, 
to  be  sure.     I  must,  however,  acquit  myself  better  next  time. 

"  You  are  probably  aware  of  the  great  defects  in  our  course 
of  study.  It  is  not  calculated  generally  to  strengthen  and  im- 
prove the  mind  as  much  as  a  four  years'  course  of  study  should. 
Some  of  the  faculties  are  developed  in  a  high  degree,  whilst 
others  are  almost  entirely  neglected ;  its  effect  is  —  if  the  ex- 
pression can  be  used  —  to  cast  the  mind  in  a  rough,  strong 
mould,  without  embellishing  or  polishing  it.     Its  effect  is  also 


WEST  POINT.  — LAST  TWO  YEARS  49 

(perhaps  no  more  than  any  other  regular  course  of  study)  to 
confine  our  attention  to  particular  pursuits,  and  make  us  neglect 
all  that  general  information  which  is  essential  to  a  man  of  lib- 
eral education,  and  in  fact  absolutely  indispensable  for  any  one 
who  engages  in  the  actual  pursuits  of  life.  Don't  you  believe 
it  is  of  greater  advantage  to  a  person  to  have  a  good  idea  of 
political  economy,  or  a  knowledge  of  the  elementary  principles 
of  composition,  than  to  be  able  to  solve  some  abstruse  problem 
in  mathematics  ? 

"  I  almost  wish  I  could  content  myself  with  standing  about 
fifth  in  my  class.  I  could  then  spend  three  or  four  hours  a  day 
in  reading  and  getting  valuable  information,  and  could  improve 
myself  in  composition.  I  might  also  cultivate  a  taste  for  the 
higher  branches  of  literature,  my  taste  for  all  which  at  present, 
except  novels,  is  about  at  the  zero  point.  As  it  is,  I  am  obliged 
to  work  hard  to  get  an  hour  a  day  to  devote  to  reading ;  and  as 
I  consider  history  and  solid  works  of  that  nature  most  valuable, 
I  have  been  able  to  read  but  one  novel  within  the  last  three 
months.  I  have  been  reading  some  of  the  speeches  in  '  British 
Eloquence'  of  late;  also  in  the  'Eloquence  of  the  United  States.' 
Do  you  think  the  characters  of  Pitt,  Fox,  and  Burke,  as  de- 
scribed by  the  author  in  the  former  work,  are  correct  ?  My 
former  ideas  of  Chatham  were  somewhat  different.  The  author 
makes  him  out  a  more  selfish  man  than  I  supposed  him  to  be. 
A  few  days  since  I  picked  up  a  volume  of  Phillips's  Speeches, 
and  read  most  of  them.  Is  not  his  speech  in  the  case  of  Blake 
v.  Wilkins  admirable  ?  What  do  you  think  of  them  generally  ? 
It  seems  to  me  there  is  more  of  the  pomp  of  words  than  real, 
effective  oratory  in  them.  He  has  too  much  pathos  in  some  of 
his  speeches.  A  little  of  it,  and  sometimes  much  of  it,  produces 
a  very  good  effect ;  but  where  it  is  nothing  but  a  pathetic  appeal 
to  the  feelings,  the  effect  is  destroyed,  at  least  with  people  of 
sense." 

This  letter  shows  that  the  youth  was  beginning  to 
think  for  himself,  and  to  weigh  things  according  to  his 
own  ideas.  The  arduous  course  of  study  he  was  pursu- 
ing did  not  wholly  engross  his  attention.  He  soon  be- 
came the  leading  member  of  the  Dialectic,  active  in  get- 


50  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

ting  up  lectures  and  other  literary  exercises.  Nor  was  he 
simply  a  bookworm.  "  The  eleven  of  us,  in  contiguous 
rooms,  who  are  all  good  friends,  and  enjoy  ourselves  as 
much  as  any  other  eleven  men  in  the  class,"  derived  some 
of  their  enjoyment  from  breaking  the  rigid  rules  of  the 
institution,  and  in  hairbreadth  escapes  from  detection. 
They  used  to  run  over  to  Benny's  without  leave.  They 
would  bring  pies  and  other  edibles  into  barracks  buttoned 
up  under  their  coats,  and,  after  the  post  was  wrapped  in 
slumber,  would  indulge  in  these  forbidden  sweets.  His 
companions  of ttimes  complained  that  Stevens  would  learn 
his  lessons  in  a  minute,  and  then  come  about,  making  a 
racket,  and  disturbing  them  in  their  studies.  He  used 
to  take  long  walks  and  excursions  about  the  neighbor- 
ing country. 

Naturally  active  and  fearless,  he  became  a  fine  horse- 
man, and  always  appeared  to  best  advantage  when 
mounted,  where  his  erect  figure  and  soldierly  bearing 
gave  him  the  effect  of  higher  stature  than  when  on  foot. 

In  winter  the  cadets  were  in  the  habit  of  skating  on 
the  river.  Isaac,  light,  active,  and  fearless,  and  exceed- 
ingly adventurous,  delighted  to  skim  full  speed  over  the 
thinnest  ice  he  could  find,  which  bent  and  crackled  under 
his  skates.  His  companions  kept  remonstrating  with  and 
forewarning  him  of  a  catastrophe,  which  in  his  case  never 
occurred.  One  extremely  cold  day,  however,  one  of  his 
associates  broke  through  the  ice  and  fell  into  the  river. 
They  rescued  him  with  some  difficulty,  and  bore  him 
dripping  wet  to  the  barracks  in  all  haste,  but  the  unlucky 
youth  was  nearly  frozen  when  they  carried  him  into  his 
room.  His  mates  at  once  set  to  work  making  a  hot  fire, 
and  bringing  blankets,  etc.  But  Isaac  now  took  the  lead, 
as  the  commanding  spirit  always  does  in  a  real  emergency. 
He  caused  them  to  put  out  the  fire,  throw  open  all  the 
windows,  and  to  vigorously  rub  the  insensible  youth  with 


WEST  POINT.  — LAST  TWO  YEARS  51 

snow  brought  from  the  outside  until  his  circulation  was 
restored,  and  the  frost  taken  out  of  his  benumbed  extremi- 
ties, when  he  suffered  them  to  rebuild  the  fire  and  renew 
the  warm  comforts,  both  solid  and  liquid. 

His  uncle  Moses,  a  distinguished  teacher,  settled  in 
Nashville,  Tenn.,  visited  West  Point  this  fall;  and  his 
father  writes,  "  Your  uncle  Moses  speaks  of  your  acquire- 
ments in  rather  extravagant  terms." 

During  the  winter  his  father's  health  was  poor,  and  he 
suffered  much  from  his  injured  leg.  Oliver  alone  remained 
at  home.  Hannah  was  in  Haverhill,  attending  school,  and 
supporting  herself  by  her  needle ;  Sarah  was  in  Lowell, 
working  in  a  factory ;  Elizabeth  was  at  Belfast,  Maine, 
visiting  an  aunt,  and  attending  school;  Mary  was  at 
Methuen  ;  and  Susan  was  attending  school  at  the  South 
Parish.  The  latter,  a  girl  of  warm  heart  and  lively 
sensibilities,  had  not  been  satisfied  with  the  sober  Unita- 
rianism  of  her  family,  and  had  become  attached  to  the 
"  Orthodox,"  or  ancient  Puritan  faith,  a  sincere  and  some- 
what enthusiastic  convert.  The  letters  of  these  mother- 
less girls,  thus  scattered  about,  reveal  a  touching  picture 
of  their  earnest  desire  and  efforts  for  study  and  self- 
improvement,  their  tender  affection  for  their  father,  and 
their  endeavor  to  treat  their  stepmother  with  respect  and 
affection.  It  was  to  their  brother  Isaac  that  they  resorted 
for  comfort  and  guidance.  They  confided  to  his  warm 
and  sympathetic  heart  all  their  troubles,  aspirations,  and 
plans,  and  constantly  sought  his  advice.  The  noble  old 
man  at  the  farm,  too,  had  come  to  rely  upon  the  manly 
character  and  sound  judgment  of  the  youth  of  nineteen 
at  West  Point.  He  writes  of  the  difficulty  of  making 
both  ends  meet,  of  his  earnest  desire  to  give  more  school- 
ing to  his  three  younger  daughters,  and  of  preserving 
intact  for  his  children  the  little  property  he  had  accumu- 
lated so  laboriously.     He  asks  Isaac  to  write  and  advise 


52  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Susan,  who  he  thinks  lacks  stability,  and  Hannah.     He 
entreats  his  son  to  come  home  every  summer  vacation. 

West  Point,  December  17,  1836. 

Dear  Father,  —  It  was  with  much  concern  I  heard  of  your 
lameness,  and  I  am  very  much  afraid  it  will  prove  more  serious 
than  you  seem  to  be  aware  of.  You  ought  not  to  think  yourself 
obliged  to  work,  when  it  is  of  manifest  injury  to  you.  .  You  are 
now  getting  to  be  along  in  years,  and  you  have  done  hard  work 
enough.  You  ought  now  to  think  of  making  yourself  comfort- 
able. I  do  hope  you  will  be  careful  about  exposing  yourself, 
and  will  endeavor  to  enjoy  the  little  property  which  you  have 
accumulated  with  so  much  toil.  Your  children,  you  may  be 
assured,  had  much  rather  that  it  should  all  be  consumed  in 
making  your  declining  years  pleasant  and  happy,  than  receive  a 
single  cent  of  it  themselves.  I  think  you  will  do  wrong  to  feel 
the  least  anxiety  about  leaving  property  to  your  children.  You 
have  evinced  the  greatest  affection  for  us,  and  the  utmost  dis- 
interestedness in  consulting  the  welfare  of  your  children,  and  it 
is  our  duty  to  make  every  return  in  our  power.  Believe  me,  we 
will  endeavor  to  exert  our  utmost  in  order  to  secure  the  hap- 
piness of  the  remaining  period  of  your  life,  and  we  ask  of  you, 
as  a  favor,  no  longer  to  undergo  the  toil  and  exposure  to  which 
you  have  hitherto  been  accustomed. 

I  wish  I  could  have  been  at  home  Thanksgiving  time.  Three 
successive  Thanksgivings  have  seen  my  absence  from  home,  and 
it  is  very  probable  that  three  more  will  pass  away  without 
allowing  me  the  opportunity  of  spending  them  at  home.  As  it 
is,  I  hope  I  shall  be  enabled  to  pass  two  or  three  weeks  at  home 
next  summer,  but  it  is  very  uncertain.  The  superintendent  has 
come  to  the  conclusion  no  longer  to  permit  the  members  of  the 
first  class  to  be  absent  on  leave  during  the  encampment,  and  it 
will  be  very  difficult  to  obtain  a  leave  unless  the  application 
is  hacked  by  very  urgent  reasons. 

At  last  Susan  decided  to  go  to  Missouri,  encouraged  by 
the  favorable  reports  of  relatives  who  had  moved  thither, 
and  hoping  to  find  a  more  promising  field  as  a  teacher. 
In  May,  1838,  her  father  accompanied  her  to  Port  Laba- 


WEST  POINT.  — LAST  TWO  YEARS  53 

die,  situated  on  the  Missouri  River,  some  miles  above  St. 
Louis.  Here  she  found  kind  friends,  and  met  with  toler- 
able success  in  her  chosen  vocation. 

At  the  June  examination  of  1838  Isaac  again  stood 
at  the  head  of  his  class.  On  the  conduct  roll  he  was 
number  twenty-three,  with  twenty  demerits.  He  spent 
part  of  the  summer  leave  at  home.  Returning  to  the 
Point,  he  made  a  pedestrian  trip  to  Philadelphia  with  a 
classmate,  in  the  course  of  which  they  were  thoroughly 
drenched  in  a  rainstorm. 

The  following  letter  exhibits  his  patriotic  indignation 
at  the  British  aggressions  on  the  Maine  frontier,  a  pre- 
cursor of  the  spirit  with  which  he  resisted  and  defeated 
similar  aggressions  on  the  extreme  northwest  in  after 
years :  —  ■ 

West  Point,  August  21,  1838. 
Dear  Father,  —  You  must  have  seen  from  the  papers  that 
the  executive  of  the  State  of  Maine  is  making  preparations 
to  carry  into  effect  the  resolutions  of  its  legislature,  and  that 
the  commissioners  will  be  supported  in  the  running  of  the 
boundary  line  by  the  whole  military  force  of  the  State.  Kent 
has  pursued  a  course  alike  honorable  to  himself  and  the  State 
which  he  represents.  If  the  national  government  shows  itself 
so  regardless  of  the  honor  and  interests  of  a  State  as  has  been 
evinced  by  the  cold  indifference  with  which  negotiations  for  the 
last  fifty  years  have  been  carried  on,  it  becomes  the  solemn  duty 
of  the  sovereignty  thus  trampled  upon  to  rise  and  maintain  its 
own  rights.  This  fawning  subserviency  to  expediency  in  a 
matter  of  principle  I  despise.  So  does  every  honorable  man ; 
better  die  in  a  just  cause  than  live  by  an  abandonment  of 
it.  I  have  sufficient  confidence  in  the  virtue  and  patriotism  of 
the  people  of  Maine  to  believe  that  they  will  triumphantly  sus- 
tain their  executive  in  his  energetic  and  honorable  measures. 
Should  there  be  actual  resistance  and  the  difficulty  resolve 
itself  into  an  open  conflict,  the  government  dare  not  withhold 
its  prompt  assistance.  The  whole  Senate,  without  a  single  dis- 
sentient voice,  have  borne  witness  to  the  fallacy  and  gross  injus- 


64  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

tice  of  the  claim  made  by  the  British  crown  upon  the  lands  in 
question.  Was  this  meant  to  vanish  into  thin  air?  The 
4th  regiment  of  artillery  are  now  in  New  York  city.  Why 
not  send  them  to  the  east  ?  They  are  certainly  wanted  on  the 
boundary. 

He  had  frequently  remonstrated  with  his  father  for 
treating  Oliver  with  too  exacting  strictness,  and  he  now 
urged  him  to  send  the  boy  to  college  as  soon  as  he  became 
old  enough.     In  reply  the  father  declares  :  — 

"  As  to  Oliver's  going  to  college,  it  is  out  of  the  question.  A 
great  many  boys  are  ruined  by  going  to  college  that  would  have 
made  useful  men  if  they  had  been  put  to  some  trade,  or  com- 
pelled to  be  industrious.  By  the  most  rigid  economy  I  can 
adopt,  the  income  of  the  farm  will  not  pay  my  expenses.  I 
am  willing  to  rise  early,  work  late,  live  on  simple  fare,  but 
dunning  letters  I  detest;  rather  live  on  two  meals  a  day.  I 
would  advise  every  young  man,  who  means  to  be  punctual,  and 
honest,  to  keep  out  of  debt." 

Oliver,  however,  in  due  time  entered  Bowdoin  College, 
Maine,  with  the  consent  and  aid  of  his  father ;  graduated 
well,  and  became  a  successful  lawyer  in  Boston,  where  he 
has  held  the  position  of  district  attorney  for  nearly  thirty- 
years. 

He  urges  Oliver  to  cultivate  a  taste  for  solid  reading, 
and  assures  him  that  a  taste  for  any  subject  can  be 
acquired  when  the  determination  is  fixed  upon  it. 

"  Let  me  advise  you  to  get  Plutarch's  Lives,  and  read  them. 
Plutarch,  you  know,  is  a  celebrated  Roman  author.  His  Lives  of 
the  distinguished  men  of  Greece  and  Rome  has  justly  immor- 
talized his  name,  and  it  will  live  as  long  as  the  men  whose 
actions  he  has  related  are  admired.  The  style  is  simple  and 
unaffected.  He  has  seized  upon  the  principal  events  in  the  life 
of  each ;  relates  to  us  many  anecdotes  of  their  efforts,  of  their 
disappointments  and  failures;  then  he  describes  in  bold  and 
feeling  language  that  untiring  industry,  that  patient  and  cease- 
less thought,  which  overcame  every  difficulty.     Read  the  lives 


WEST  POINT.  — LAST  TWO  YEARS  55 

of  Cicero  and  Demosthenes,  Nicias  and  Phocion.  When  you 
next  write,  tell  me  what  you  think  of  them.  Another  work  I 
want  you  to  read ;  it  is  Sparks's  '  American  Biography.'  We 
should  certainly  be  intimately  acquainted  with  the  deeds  and 
characters  of  our  own  great  men.  Have  you  ever  read  any  vol- 
umes of  the  i  Spectator '  ?  There  are,  I  think,  ten  volumes  of 
them,  consisting  of  essays  of  four  or  five  pages  each  upon  all 
subjects.  The  style  is  flowing  and  graceful,  exceedingly  inter- 
esting ;  a  vein  of  wit  and  sprightliness  pervades  them  all. 

"  For  myself,  things  have  gone  smoothly  on  since  I  was  at 
home.  My  daily  duties  are  all  sources  of  pleasure.  This  renders 
me  satisfied  with  myself  and  with  all  around  me.  I  am  never 
afflicted  with  low  spirits,  or  with  feelings  of  discontent,  —  all 
this  for  the  simple  reason  that  all  my  time  is  interestingly 
employed. 

"  Have  you  finished  harvesting  ?  Did  you  gather  many  wal- 
nuts? We  have  a  large  number  of  chestnut-trees  at  West 
Point.     I  have  gathered  quite  an  abundance  of  them.,, 

TO  HIS   FATHER. 

November  17. 

Dear  Father,  —  I  have  just  come  from  the  meeting  of  our 
society.  Our  proceedings  are  quite  good,  and  there  is  an  evi- 
dent improvement  every  evening.  It  is  indeed  much  better  to 
employ  Saturday  evening  in  listening  to,  and  participating  in,  a 
debate  on  some  interesting  subject  than  staying,  in  one's  room 
reading  novels,  or  perhaps  doing  nothing.  We  had  quite  an 
animated  discussion  the  other  evening  on  the  justice  of  lynch 
law.  We  got  very  warm ;  indeed,  the  debate  came  very  near 
merging  into  the  discussion  of  abolition.  This,  you  are  aware, 
is  a  very  tender  subject,  and,  for  our  society,  a  very  improper 
one.  For  my  own  part  I  got  very  much  excited,  and  my  free 
avowal  of  abolition  principles  did  not  tend  to  allay  the  feeling 
which  existed  among  the  members. 

You  can  well  suppose  that  I  am  looking  forward  to  gradu- 
ating with  much  interest.  My  entering  this  institution  I  con- 
sider my  first  important  step  in  life.  I  have  succeeded  better 
than  I  have  ever  had  any  right  to  anticipate.  I  have  endeav- 
ored to  make  it  my  rule  never  to  relinquish  any  undertaking, 


56  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

but  always  to  try  till  success  crowned  my  efforts.  I  have  thus 
got  along  pretty  well.  I  have  not  the  slightest  doubt  that  I 
shall  succeed  well  enough  as  long  as  my  efforts  are  carried  on 
in  a  proper  spirit,  which  is  never  to  rely  too  confidently  on 
success,  and  to  bear  every  disappointment  with  a  good  grace. 

I  feel  much  anxiety  to  see  Oliver  improve.  These  long 
winter  evenings  should  not  be  trifled  away.  Oliver  might 
study,  read  to  the  family,  or  otherwise  improve  his  time,  till 
half  past  nine  o'clock.  If  he  should  be  disposed  to  read  any 
longer,  let  him  have  a  good  warm  fire,  and  his  reading  will  not 
be  thrown  away.  You  are,  I  know,  a  great  admirer  of  Frank- 
lin. He  used  to  study  until  twelve  at  night  when  obliged  to 
work  hard  all  day.  How  could  Oliver  and  the  girls,  if  any 
are  at  home,  pass  the  time  better  than  reading  or  studying  till 
perhaps  ten  in  the  evening  ? 


TO   HANNAH. 

January  27,  1839. 

Dear  Sister,  —  It  may  be  said  that  Scott  and  Addison  are 
elegant  writers.  Johnson,  that  intellectual  giant,  said  that  who- 
ever wished  to  become  a  perfect  writer  must  give  up  his  days 
and  nights  to  Addison.  The  style  of  Addison  is  peculiarly  easy 
and  harmonious,  the  very  music  of  composition  ;  and  although 
not  so  deep  and  original  a  thinker  as  many  whose  styles  are  less 
attractive,  his  works  will  always  be  admired* for  their  sound 
views  on  moral  and  religious  subjects.  Scott,  you  know,  has 
been  called  the  magician,  and  excelled  all  his  contemporaries 
in  the  ease,  rapidity,  and  finish  of  his  performances.  The  last 
volume  of  his  "  Waverley  "  was  written  in  one  week,  and  his 
novels  were  ushered  into  the  reading  community  with  so  rapid 
a  succession  as  astonished  every  one.  Some  think  that  Scott 
excelled  as  a  poet,  and,  wonderful  as  he  was  as  a  writer  of 
romance,  he  was  still  more  successful  in  verse.  Some  of  his 
poetry  and  a  few  of  his  novels  are  well  worth  reading.  His 
"  Lady  of  the  Lake  "  and  "  Ivanhoe  "  are  much  admired.  The 
"Tales  of  my  Landlord"  and  "  Guy  Mannering"  also  are  very 
fine.  There  is  a  little  volume  of  poetry,  called  "  The  Book  of 
Pleasures,"  which  I  intend  to  read,  the  first  opportunity.  It  con- 
tains The  Pleasures  of  Memory,  of  Hope,  and  of  the  Imagina- 


THE  TALISMAN  57 

tion,  all  three  beautiful  poems.     You  had  better  read  them,  if 
they  are  to  be  obtained. 

Our  examinations  are  finished,  and  we  are  again  under  full 
sail  for  the  next,  and,  for  myself,  last  examination.  The  result 
of  the  present  is,  head  in  three  branches  and  second  in  the 
fourth.  The  last  five  months  I  spend  at  West  Point  should  be 
employed  to  better  advantage  than  any  other  five  months 
before.  I  have  marked  out  for  myself  a  pretty  severe  course 
of  study,  by  which  I  shall  endeavor  to  abide.  When  I  gradu- 
ate, it  will  be  a  satisfaction  to  look  back  upon  my  four  years' 
course,  and  feel  a  consciousness  that  I  have  improved  my 
opportunities.  After  graduating,  where  I  shall  be  stationed 
is  uncertain.  But  I  shall  endeavor  to  get  ordered  to  Boston 
under  Colonel  Thayer.  There  are  extensive  fortifications  now 
erecting  in  Boston  harbor  on  George*s  Island.  It  would  be 
a  capital  chance  to  be  employed  upon  them,  particularly  when 
the  superintendent  of  the  works  is  so  distinguished  a  man 
as  Colonel  Thayer.  There  are  reasons,  which  you  can  well 
imagine,  why  I  wish  to  be  near  home. 

He  must  have  been  an  omnivorous  and  rapid  reader 
to  have  mastered  Franklin,  Plutarch,  Addison,  Scott, 
Kollin's  Ancient  History,  besides  poetry,  speeches,  and 
novels;  one  wonders  where  he  could  have  found  the  time, 
but  he  was  ever  working  at  high  pressure.  In  addition 
to  the  hard  work  necessary  to  retain  the  headship  of  the 
class,  and  to  discharge  the  duties  of  assistant  professor, 
he  took  the  most  active  and  leading  part  in  the  Dialectic, 
and  delivered  the  valedictory  address  at  the  graduation 
of  the  class.  He  also  founded  "The  Talisman,"  a  journal 
for  the  practice  and  improvement  of  the  cadets  in  com- 
position. In  the  introductory  address,  which  he  wrote 
as  editor,  he  presents  his  views  of  the  need  for,  and 
objects  of,  the  paper  in  glowing  language,  concluding  :  — 

"  We  have  thus  announced  our  intention  of  establishing  a 
paper.  Its  character  will  be  readily  understood  from  the  pre- 
ceding exposition  of  our  views.  We  shall  hoist  the  white  flag, 
emblematic  of  our  motives  and  intentions.     On  it  shall  be 


58  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

inscribed  in  golden  letters  The  Talisman.  This  flag  will  we 
defend  with  our  life's  blood ;  and  when  expiring  nature  is  about 
to  give  up  her  last  hold  upon  us,  we  will  wave  it  aloft  in 
triumph  and  die  beneath  its  shadow." 

In  a  letter  to  his  uncle  William  he  gives  an  amusing 
account  of  anonymously  criticising  his  own  effusions :  — 

"Several  of  us  have  amused  ourselves  in  writing  a  paper, 
which  we  have  called  '  The  Talisman,'  and  having  it  read  at  the 
meetings  of  the  Dialectic.  Our  motto  is,  The  Human  Intellect 
the  Universal  Talisman.  The  best  of  the  joke  is,  no  one  can 
divine  who  are  concerned  in  it.  Indeed,  once  I  wrote  a  most 
famous  blowing  up  of  one  of  my  own  performances,  and  was 
extremely  amused  to  have  several  of  my  friends  console  me ;  in 
fact,  one  told  me  he  would  not  give  a  fig  for  these  criticisms, 
to  which  I  assented,  asking  him  if  he  had  any  idea  who  were 
the  editors  of  the  paper,  to  which  he  replied  in  the  negative. 
When  we  graduate  next  June,  we  wish  to  have  an  address 
delivered  before  the  society  by  some  able  man.  Do  you  think 
we  could  get  Governor  Everett  ?  " 

As  already  stated,  Cadet  Stevens  was  put  forward  by 
his  classmates  to  deliver  this  address  himself. 

He  contributed  to  "The  Talisman"  a  series  of  articles, 
written  in  a  simple,  direct,  and  forcible  style,  and  marked 
by  an  earnest  tone  and  elevated  sentiments,  among  which 
were  "Agency  of  Steam  in  Mechanical  Operations;" 
"  In  Jury  Trials,  ought  the  Twelve  Jurors  to  be  required 
to  be  Unanimous  ?  "  "  Has  Man  a  Conscience  ?  "  "  The 
Importance  of  a  Good  Style  of  Writing  to  an  Officer  of 
the  Army;"  "  History;"  "  The  Proper  Study  of  Mankind 
is  Man." 

His  most  intimate  friends  at  the  Point  were  Henry  L. 
Smith,  Jeremy  F.  Gilmer,  Zealous  B.  Tower,  Henry  W. 
■Halleck,  Stephen  D.  Carpenter,  Bryant  P.  Tilden,  William 
B.  Greene,  Franklin  D.  Callender,  John  D.  Bacon,  Paul 
0.  Hebert.  Among  these  high-spirited  and  intellectual 
young  men  he  was  an  acknowledged  leader ;  and  even 


WEST  POINT.— GRADUATION  59 

after  leaving  the  academy,  they  were  continually  calling 
on  him  for  advice  in  their  own  affairs,  and  for  aid  in 
efforts  to  benefit  the  service,  to  secure  increased  rank 
and  pay,  etc. 

Thus  the  last  term  sped  rapidly  away.  At  the  exami- 
nation he  was  first,  as  usual.  He  stood  thirty  on  the  con- 
duct roll,  having  sixteen  demerits.  It  will  be  observed 
that  in  "  conduct "  during  the  course  he  stood  but  little 
above  the  average.  Evidently,  with  his  spirited  and 
vigorous  nature,  he  did  not  mind  infringing  the  rules  at 
times.  When  the  Academic  Board  reviewed  the  stand- 
ing of  the  members  of  the  class  to  award  to  each  his 
proper  grade,  it  was  found  that  Cadet  Stevens  stood  at 
the  head,  not  only  generally,  but  in  every  one  of  the 
studies.  Moreover,  his  standing,  as  compared  with  all 
who  had  ever  graduated  from  the  institution,  was  among 
the  first.  This  remarkable  achievement,  together  with 
his  strong  personality,  deeply  impressed  the  officers  of 
the  academy.  They  were  proud  of  their  pupil,  they  felt 
that  he  reflected  honor  upon  the  institution,  and  they 
vied  with  each  other  in  encomiums  and  attentions  which 
they  deemed  his  due. 

He  invited  his  father  and  stepmother  to  attend  the 
graduation  exercises,  and  they  came.  When  they  arrived 
they  were  astonished  to  see  the  honors  heaped  upon  their 
son,  and  the  high  estimation  in  which  he  was  held. 
They,  too,  were  overwhelmed  with  attentions  on  his 
account.  Prominent  seats  were  found  for  them,  and  the 
professors  came  up  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  parents 
of  the  first  graduate,  and  to  congratulate  them  upon  his 
remarkable  talents  and  promise. 


CHAPTER  V 

NEWPORT 

Crowned  with  these  well-earned  honors,  and  promoted 
to  be  second  lieutenant  of  engineers,  July  1,  1839,  he 
accompanied  his  parents  home,  expecting  to  enjoy  a  long 
and  delightful  vacation  ;  but  his  anticipations  were  speed- 
ily cut  short  by  orders  to  proceed  to  Newport,  R.  I.,  to 
take  part  in  the  building  of  Fort  Adams,  so  that  he  was 
permitted  to  spend  only  the  Fourth  of  July  in  Andover. 

Phrenology  was  in  vogue  then,  and  the  young  man, 
on  his  way  through  Boston,  had  his  head  examined  by 
a  professor  of  the  new  science,  who,  much  to  his  amuse- 
ment, pronounced  him  a  poet.  He  reached  his  station 
early  in  July,  and  took  quarters  with  Miss  Castoff,  wha 
kept  a  boarding-house  on  the  corner  of  Spring  and  Ann 
streets.  Lieutenant  James  L.  Mason,  also  of  the  engineer 
corps,  boarded  at  the  same  place.  The  two  young  men 
became  warm  friends  and  companions.  Daily  they  rode 
over  to  the  fort  together  in  the  morning,  and  returned 
in  the  afternoon.  Lieutenant  P.  G.  T.  Beauregard,  after- 
wards the  well-known  Confederate  general,  was  also  on 
duty  there  as  an  engineer  officer,  and  remained  several 
months  after  Stevens's  arrival.  Fort  Adams  was  garri- 
soned by  a  detachment  of  the  2d  artillery,  officered  by 
Lieutenants  Lewis  G.  Arnold,  Arthur  B.  Lansing,  and 
Henry  J.  Hunt. 

Fort  Adams,  commenced  twenty  years  previously,  and 
now  nearly  completed  under  the  able  superintendence  of 
General  Joseph  G.  Totten,  was  the  largest  defensive  work 
in  the  country,  Fortress  Monroe  only  excepted,  and,  as 


NEWPORT  61 

General  Cullum  declares  in  his  biographical  sketch  of 
General  Totten,  "  the  first  in  its  combination  of  the 
principles  and  details  of  the  art  of  fortification."  It 
must  have  afforded  a  most  gratifying  field  for  the  ener- 
gies of  the  ardent  and  accomplished  young  officer,  fresh 
from  the  military  academy,  and  eager  to  test  his  acquire- 
ments and  abilities  in  real  work.  The  redoubt,  the  inner 
and  separate  stronghold  in  rear  of  the  main  work,  was 
mostly  built  under  his  superintendence,  1839-42.  Enter- 
ing upon  this  duty  with  his  accustomed  zeal,  his  sound 
judgment  in  laying  out  the  work  for  the  workmen,  and 
energy  and  diligence  in  pushing  it,  soon  attracted  atten- 
tion. He  took  control  with  the  self-reliance  and  habit 
of  command  of  a  natural  leader.  He  was  strict  and 
exacting  with  the  employees,  but  at  the  same  time  just 
and  considerate,  and  took  a  real  interest  in  them.  He 
soon  won  their  respect  and  goodwill.  Even  the  man 
who  groomed  his  horse,  John  A.  C.  Stacy,  long  years 
afterwards,  when  he  had  himself  become  a  wealthy  con- 
tractor, spoke  of  Lieutenant  Stevens  with  the  greatest 
admiration.  His  unconscious  success  in  this  direction 
nearly  led  to  a  breach  with  Mason.  The  latter  became 
cold  and  distant  in  manner,  and  openly  avoided  him. 
Stevens  demanded  an  explanation,  whereupon  Mason  burst 
forth  indignantly  with  the  charge,  "  You  are  destroying 
all  my  influence  with  the  men  on  the  work.  When  you 
appear,  they  hang  upon  every  word  you  utter,  and  can- 
not do  enough  for  you,  while  they  scarcely  notice  me, 
although  I  am  the  senior,  and  have  been  longer  on  the 
work."  But  Mason  was  soon  satisfied  by  his  friend's 
remonstrances,  and  his  own  good  sense,  that  Stevens  was 
not  to  blame  for  that  result.  Mason  was  a  man  of 
remarkable  talents,  brilliant  in  conversation,  and  fasci- 
nating in  social  intercourse. 

Newport  at   this  time  contained  many  old   families, 


62  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

among  which  the  traditions  of  colonial  grandeur,  when 
the  port  was  the  largest  and  most  flourishing  city  in  the 
colonies,  mingled  with  the  fresher  recollections  of  the 
Revolution,  the  British  occupation,  the  battle  of  Rhode 
Island,  the  romantic  capture  of  General  Prescott,  the 
English  commander,  the  brilliant  though  brief  sojourn 
of  the  French  allies  under  Rochambeau,  and  the  visit  of 
Washington.  The  town  was  celebrated  for  beautiful 
and  charming  girls.  It  was  the  resort  in  summer  of  the 
cultivated,  wealthy,  and  fashionable  from  other  parts  •  of 
the  country,  especially  from  the  South.  The  Hazards, 
Lymans,  Randolphs,  Vernons,  Lawtons,  Hunters,  Kings, 
Turners,  Gardiners,  Fowlers,  Gibbs,  Tottens,  Perrys,  and 
others,  all  more  or  less  related,  afforded  a  cultivated 
and  high-toned,  yet  simple  arid  cordial  society,  free  from 
the  ostentation  of  wealth  and  the  absurd  pride  of  caste. 
The  army  and  naval  officers  stationed  there,  and  the 
families  of  Commodore  Oliver  Hazard  Perry,  the  hero  of 
Lake  Erie,  of  General  Totten,  and  of  others  who  had 
served  their  country,  added  a  patriotic  and  military  ele- 
ment. Into  this  charming  society  the  young  officer 
entered  with  keen  enjoyment,  and  his  modest  demeanor 
and  sensible  conversation,  not  less  than  his  reputation  for 
ability  and  scholarship,  soon  made  him  welcome. 

One  of  these  Newport  belles  thus  described  him :  — 

"  The  first  time  I  saw  Mr.  Stevens  was  in  church.  He  sat 
in  the  pew  behind  ours.  He  was  very  young,  of  small,  slight 
figure,  had  a  very  large  head,  with  fine  carriage,  —  a  noble  head, 
thick,  bushy,  black  hair,  and  dark  complexion.  He  was  con- 
sidered very  homely,  but  he  had  a  large,  dark  hazel  eye,  which 
looked  one  through  and  through,  and  compelled  one's  atten- 
tion." 

Notwithstanding  that  "  he  was  considered  very  homely," 
young  Stevens  took  an  active  part  in  the  social  life  and 
festivities  of   the   town^  calling  upon   the  old   families, 


NEWPORT  63 

escorting  with  other  young  men  bevies  of  young  ladies 
on  delightful  long  walks  to  the  beach,  along  the  cliffs, 
the  Blue  Rocks,  Tammany  Hill,  and  other  resorts,  and 
attending  the  numerous  parties. 

It  was  at  one  of  these  rather  informal,  but  enjoyable 
gatherings  that  he  first  met  the  young  girl  who  was  soon 
to  become  his  wife.  Mason  had  warned  him  to  "  beware 
of  Margaret  Hazard,"  as  the  two  young  men  were  set- 
ting out  to  attend  a  tea  party  at  the  Vernons'  hospitable 
mansion,  two  miles  out  of  town.  The  young  lady  was  a 
daughter  of  Benjamin  Hazard,  for  years  recognized  as 
the  ablest  lawyer  and  statesman  in  the  State,  who  had 
represented  the  town  in  the  state  legislature  for  thirty- 
one  years  without  a  break,  having  been  elected  sixty-two 
times  in  succession.  Although  very  young,  she  possessed 
many  attractions  of  person  and  character,  had  many 
admirers,  and  was  one  of  the  acknowledged  belles.  Not- 
withstanding the  friendly  or  jocose  warning,  Mr.  Stevens 
was  duly  presented  to  Miss  Hazard,  and  had  the  pleasure 
of  escorting  her  home,  and  improved  the  opportunity  by 
inviting  her  to  ride  on  horseback  the  following  after- 
noon. Miss  Margaret  lacked  a  suitable  habit,  it  seems ; 
but  an  old  cloak  skillfully  adapted  served  for  the  long 
sweeping  skirt  then  in  vogue,  a  cousin  furnished  his  new 
beaver  for  a  riding-hat,  and  another  admirer  contributed 
a  handsome  silver-mounted  riding-whip,  so  that  when  the 
cavalier  presented  himself  on  his  gray  charger  with  a 
groom  leading  the  "  Indian  Queen,"  the  young  lady  was 
ready.  The  "  Indian  Queen  "  was  the  name  of  a  noted 
saddle-horse  from  the  stable  of  Nicholas  Hassard,  who 
for  many  years  kept  the  livery  stable  on  Spring,  or  Back 
Street,  corner  of  Touro.  When  asked  if  the  "Indian 
Queen  "  was  a  safe  horse  for  the  young  lady,  Mr.  Hassard 
replied,  "Miss  Margaret  Hazard  can  ride  any  horse  in 
my  stable."     • 


64  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

This  ride  led  to  others,  and  it  was  not  long  before  the 
two  rode  over  the  beaches  together  nearly  every  pleasant 
afternoon.  Mr.  Stevens  would  come  with  the  horses 
about  five  o'clock,  and  the  usual  ride  was  over  the  three 
beaches  and  around  by  the  green  End  road ;  and  a  more 
romantic,  beautiful,  and  pleasant  course  it  would  be  hard 
to  find. 

A  fearless  horseman,  he  was  fond  of  horses  and  of  rid- 
ing. He  owned  and  delighted  to  ride  a  fiery  gray,  which 
ofttimes  taxed  all  his  strength,  skill,  and  daring  to  master, 
and  which  occasionally  ran  away  despite  all  efforts.  Once 
the  steed,  with  the  bit  in  his  teeth,  dashed  headlong  for 
the  stable.  "  Stevens  is  done  for  !  "  exclaimed  Mason  ; 
"the  stable  door  is  too  low  to  ride  under,  and  his  brains 
will  be  knocked  out."  But  the  rider  threw  himself  along 
the  side  and  neck  of  the  furious  animal  just  in  time  to' 
avoid  this  danger. 

Mason's  warning  was  indeed  in  vain.  Writes  his  inti- 
mate friend,  H.  L.  Smith,  as  early  as  April :  — 

"  Not  in  love,  Stevens  ;  why,  your  description  fired  me.  By 
heavens !  it  is  a  glorious  thing  to  see  a  girl  with  a  lai'ge  soul. 
Would  there  were  more  such.  *  Dark  blue  eyes  ; '  '  Rides  fear- 
lessly ; '  '  Loves  Channing,  Carlyle,  Milton  ; '  *  A  sweet  smile,' 
etc." 

He  became  a  frequent  caller  upon,  and  intimate  in  the 
family  of,  Benjamin  Hazard.  The  latter  was  slowly  sink- 
ing under  the  lingering  disease,  consumption,  which  car- 
ried him  off  in  1841.  The  gifted  and  sympathetic  young 
man  would  have  long  talks  and  discussions  with  the  intel- 
lectual, learned,  and  experienced  senior,  and  would  read 
to  him  from  his  favorite  authors,  Swift  and  Shakespeare. 
"I  think  our  young  lieutenant  is  very  handsome,"  re- 
marked Mr.  Hazard,  doubtless  alluding  to  his  fine  head 
and  sound,  bright  mind,  and  perhaps  quietly  rebuking 
the  disparaging  term  "  homely."    It  was  not  long  before 


NEWPORT  65 

he  became  an  acknowledged  suitor  for  the  hand  of  Miss 
Margaret,  and  they  were  betrothed  in  the  summer  of 
1840. 

The  mansion  occupied  by  this  family,  situated  on  Broad 
Street,  on  the  southern  corner  of  Stone  Street,  and  near 
the  state  house,  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Newport,  the 
timbers  of  which,  according  to  tradition,  were  cut  and 
hewn  in  the  woods  between  the  harbor  and  the  beach. 
By  a  curious  coincidence  it  has  descended  in  the  female 
line  for  three  generations.  Before  and  during  the  Revo- 
lution it  was  the  home  of  John  G.  Wanton,  a  wealthy 
colonial  merchant  and  the  son  of  the  colonial  governor, 
Gideon  Wanton. 

It  was  a  favorite  resort  of  the  brilliant  French  officers 
who  landed  in  Newport  to.  aid  the  struggling  patriots, 
one  of  whom  cut  with  a  diamond  upon  a  small,  old- 
fashioned  window-pane  in  the  great  parlor,  "  Charming 
Polly  Wanton,  Oct.  17,  1780."  But  an  American  officer, 
Colonel  Daniel  Lyman,  afterwards  chief  justice  of  Rhode 
Island  and  president  of  the  Society  of  the  Cincinnati  in 
Rhode  Island,  married  "  Charming  Polly  "  away  from  her 
French  admirers. 

Mary  Wanton  was  an  only  daughter,  and  inherited  the 
old  mansion,  where  she  reared  a  family  of  thirteen  chil- 
dren, and  dispensed  the  gracious  hospitality  to  which  she 
was  accustomed. 

One  of  her  daughters,  Harriet  Lyman,  married  Benja- 
min Hazard,  and  upon  the  removal  of  Colonel  Lyman 
and  his  family  to  Providence,  succeeded  to  the  old  New- 
port homestead,  which  thus  for  generations  was  the  scene 
of  family  happiness,  worth,  refinement,  and  hospitality. 
It  is  now  owned  and  occupied. by  two  of  Benjamin  Haz- 
ard's daughters,  Misses  Emily  Lyman  and  Mary  Wanton 
Hazard,  who  maintain  the  traditions  of  the  old  mansion 
with  charming  grace. 


66  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

Now  time  speeds  away  rapidly  and  pleasantly  with  the 
young  officer.  He  has  long  talks  and  discussions  with 
Mason,  noted  for  his  brilliant  mind  and  conversation. 
His  official  duties  are  congenial.  He  heartily  enjoys  the 
social  pleasures  in  which  he  takes  part,  and  moreover  he 
lays  out  a  stiff  course  of  study  for  the  winter.  He  writes 
uncle  William,  October  31,  1839:  — 

"  My  brother  officer,  Lieutenant  Mason,  is  quite  familiar 
with  politics.  .  He  is  a  Nullifier.  I  am  a  loco-foco  Abolitionist. 
Though  we  agree  on  many  points,  yet  we  have  at  times  quite 
warm  though  very  friendly  debates  upon  these  points  upon 
which  we  differ.  I  shall  be  glad  to  spend  most  of  the  winter 
in  study,  and  I  think  of  giving  about  half  my  time  to  my  pro- 
fession and  its  kindred  branches  of  physics  and  mathemat- 
ics, and  of  the  remaining  portion  a  moiety  to  politics  and  the 
political  history  of  our  country  (which  will  necessitate  the  care- 
ful reading  and  study  of  the  Federalist  and  Madison  papers, 
and  other  documents  illustrative  of  the  peculiar  glories  of  our 
institutions),  and  the  remainder  to  general  reading." 

TO    HANNAH. 

My  situation  at  Newport  continues  to  please  me  as  much  as 
ever.  We  are  still  pretty  busy  throughout  the  day,  but  are 
able  to  secure  considerable  time  for  reading  and  study. 

I  have  been  reading  Byron's  Poems  of  late.  Although  his 
verse  is  far  inferior  (in  my  opinion)  to  Shakespeare  and  Mil- 
ton, still  it  has  many  and  peculiar  merits.  Many  of  his  pro- 
ductions are  overflowing  with  lofty  and  correct  ideas.  No  syc- 
ophantic awe,  or  respect  for  place  and  title,  restrains  his  caustic 
and  withering  pen.  He  soars  upon  his  own  pinions,  and  looks 
down  upon  them  all. 

Thus  his  time  was  well  occupied,  yet  he  was  also  an 
indefatigable  correspondent,  writing  frequently  to  his 
West  Point  classmates  and  friends,  now  beginning  to 
scatter,  and  to  his  father,  sisters,  brother,  and  cousins, 
but  especially  to  his  sisters,  whose  welfare  and  happiness 
he  had  so  much  at  heart.    He  is  constantly  sending  them 


v  OF   THB  '      \ 

UNIVERSITY  J 

califo*^ 


.      NEWPORT  67 

books  and  papers,  and  advising  them  in  regard  to  their 
studies  and  plans.  Susan  was  still  in  Missouri,  doing 
well  as  a  teacher.  During  the  fall  Hannah  was  teaching 
school,  or  in  Boston  earning  her  livelihood  in  a  store. 
Elizabeth  and  Sarah  were  at  school,  and  only  Mary  and 
Oliver  remained  at  home.  The  father,  working  too  hard, 
had  serious' trouble  with  his  injured  leg,  and  was  unwell. 
But  it  was  a  joyous  reunion  when  the  elder  brother  came 
-home  at  Thanksgiving,  and  the  scattered  family  were  all 
assembled,  except  Susan,  in  the  great  roomy  kitchen  in 
the  old  farmhouse,  around  the  well-filled  board,  loaded 
with  the  roast  turkey  and  cranberry  sauce,  snowy  biscuits, 
mince,  pumpkin,  and  apple  pies,  cake,  preserves,  and  all 
the  good  things  of  that  generous  and  kindly  season. 

Eeturning  to  Newport,  Lieutenant  Stevens  made  one 
of  a  class  for  the  study  of  German,  although  one  may 
suspect  that  the  language  was  not  the  only  attraction. 
Charles  T.  Brooks,  the  gifted  poet,  preacher,  and  writer, 
and  who  has  since  translated  so  many  poems  and  works 
from  the  German,  was  then  settled  over  the  Unitarian 
Church  in  Newport,  and  a  few  years  previously  had  mar- 
ried Harriet  Lyman  Hazard,  an  elder  sister  of  Margaret. 
An  accomplished  and  enthusiastic  German  scholar,  Mr. 
Brooks  organized  the  class,  and  acted  as  their  instructor. 
Mrs.  Brooks,  Mrs.  Shroder,  Miss  Margaret  L.  Hazard, 
Miss  Julia  Randolph,  Stevens,  and  Mason  met  regularly 
once  a  week  at  Mr.  Brooks's  house  on  Barney  Street/  An 
incident  is  related  showing  the  facility  with  which  Mr. 
Stevens  acquired  any  subject  which  he  undertook.  Mr. 
Brooks  one  day  asked  him  a  difficult  question  in  gram- 
mar, which  he  answered  promptly.  Another  question 
was  put  with  the  same  result.  The  teacher  then  plied 
him  with  question  upon  question,  all  of  which  he  answered 
without  hesitation.  "  Why,"  exclaimed  Mr.  Brooks,  "you 
seem  to  know  the  whole  grammar.' '  "  Oh,  yes,"  replied 
Stevens,  "  I  've  run  it  over." 


68  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

A  long  and  affectionate  letter  from  Susan  informed 
him  of  her  marriage  to  David  H.  Bishop,  a  man  of  fine 
character,  and  engaged  in  the  profession  of  an  educator, 
on  December  26,  1839.  Mr.  Stevens  at  once  wrote  to 
his  new  relative  welcoming  him  in  his  hearty  and  warm- 
hearted manner,  and  a  friendly  correspondence  ensued 
between  them,  which  developed  into  a  long  and  well- 
maintained  political  discussion,  for  Mr.  Bishop  was  a 
Whig,  while  Stevens  was  an  uncompromising  Democrat, 
of  Free-soil  convictions,  —  "  loco-f oco  Abolitionist,"  as 
he  defines  himself. 

In  April  the  fostering  and  indulgent  grandmother,  the 
widow  of  the  Ke volution ary  soldier,  Jonathan,  died  at  an 
advanced  age,  attended  during  her  last  illness  by  Sarah. 
Mary,  early  in  the  year,  visited  aunt  McFarland  in  Belfast, 
Maine.  Elizabeth  was  in  Lowell,  and  later  also  went  to 
aunt  McFarland,  and  only  Sarah  and  Oliver  remained  at 
home  this  year. 

His  father's  letters  reveal  how  much  he  was  coming  to 
lean  upon  the  self-reliant  young  man,  and  to  feel  the  need 
of  his  support  and  affection.  "I  was  glad  to  hear  you 
say  in  your  last  letter  that  in  matters  relating  to  yourself 
you  should  be  guided  by  your  own  judgment,"  he  writes. 
In  every  letter  he  urges  him  to  come  home,  if  only  for  a 
short  visit. 

Dear  Son,  —  In  your  letter  to  Oliver  you  mention  not  com- 
ing home  until  Thanksgiving.  I  hope  it  will  be  convenient 
for  you  to  come  home  and  spend  a  few  days  in  the  summer. 
Your  visit  in  March  was  very  short,  but  short  as  it  was,  it  was 
better  than  none.  I  learn  from  you  that  you  are  far  from  be- 
ing satisfied  with  your  present  attainments.  Why  should  young 
men  talk  of  having  finished  their  education  when  in  fact  they 
have  only  commenced  it,  considering  how  nluch  more  they  might 
learn  if  they  would  only  press  forward !  May  all  you  learn  be 
sound  and  durable;  one  rotten  piece  of  timber  may  wreck  a 
ship.    Do  not  study  too  hard.    My  days  of  anticipating  worldly 


NEWPORT  69 

happiness  are  over  (not  so  fast),  I  do  anticipate  seeing  my 
children  useful  and  happy. 

Your  father, 

Isaac  Stevens. 

Lieutenant  Stevens  was  promoted  first  lieutenant,  corps 
of  engineers,  July  1,  1840. 

His  active,  and  thoroughgoing  mind,  looking  beyond 
the  duties  assigned  him,  saw  the  necessity  of  other  works 
to  complete  the  defenses  at  Newport.  He  wrote  urgent 
letters  to  the  Engineer  Department  in  Washington,  repre- 
senting the  need  of  a  thorough  survey  of  the  harbor  and 
the  surrounding  ground,  and  especially  of  the  fortifying 
of  Rose  Island,  which,  situated  in  mid-channel  between 
Rhode  Island  and  Conanicut,  and  three  miles  north  of, 
or  inside  Fort  Adams,  would  supplement  and  support  that 
work,  and  render  the  main  entrance  of  Narragansett  Bay 
impregnable  to  a  hostile  fleet.  He  was  ambitious  to  plan 
and  carry  out  the  fortification  of  this  point,  but  his 
recommendations  were  disregarded,  and  he  was  informed 
that  his  views,  though  sound,  were  premature.  Of  late 
years  the  importance  of  fortifying  Rose  Island  has  been 
recognized,  and  the  government  has  erected  a  powerful 
battery  there. 

During  the  spring  and  summer  his  long-cherished  idea 
of  becoming  a  lawyer  took  more  definite  shape  in  his 
mind,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  following  letter  to  his 
uncle  William,  August  5,  1840 :  — 

My  dear  Uncle,  —  You  recollect  that  when  last  in  Andover 
I  was  revolving  in  my  mind  the  expediency  of  studying  law, 
with  a  view  of  making  it  my  permanent  profession.  Entering 
the  West  Point  Academy  with  no  idea  of  remaining  in  the 
army,  my  present  occupation  cannot  he  regarded  as  one  that 
I  have  voluntarily  and  after  mature  reflection  selected,  but  as 
one  which  circumstances  and  good  luck  have  forced  upon  me. 
Therefore,  in  balancing  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of 
the  army  and  the  law  in  order  to  a  decision  of  the  question, 

^  OF    THK 

UNIVERSITY 
^CALIFOB^ 


70  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Which  shall  I  select  as  my  occupation  ?  I  think  I  have  nothing 
to  do  with  certain  objections  that  many  would  advance,  that  it 
would  be  changing  my  business,  —  it  would  betray  a  want  of 
fixedness  of  purpose,  —  it  would  be  an  act  of  inconsistency.  To 
be  sure,  some  of  the  studies  at  West  Point  throw  no  light  upon 
the  law,  but  most  of  them  contribute,  and  contribute  in  an 
eminent  degree,  to  induce  the  habits  and  call  out  the  faculties 
essential  to  the  able  lawyer.  Something  more  is  wanted,  —  as 
a  knowledge  of  the  classics,  of  ethics,  of  history.  Three  years' 
rigorous,  systematic  devotion  of  my  leisure  moments  to  these 
pursuits  would  more  than  place  me  on  a  level  with  the  graduates 
of  our  colleges;  by  economy  enough  of  my  pay  could  be  laid 
up  to  defray  my  expenses,  should  I  then  resign  and  go  through 
a  three  years'  study  of  the  law.  As  the  thing,  therefore,  can  be 
accomplished,  as  the  law  for  many  reasons  would  suit  me  better 
than  the  army,  as  I  have  no  false  notions  of  delicacy  on  the 
ground  of  consistency,  etc.,  I  have  at  length  concluded  to  give 
up  the  army  for  the  law.  As  soon  as  I  decided,  I  began  to  act. 
On  that  very  day,  about  three  weeks  since,  I  commenced  Latin 
and  a  course  of  reading  in  History.  Greek  I  shall  commence 
next  November.  As  I  do  not  wish  justly  to  render  myself 
liable  to  the  charge  of  hastiness  or  obstinacy,  I  have  deter- 
mined to  consult  my  friends.  If  they  can  adduce  reasons  against 
my  course,  I  should  be  very  much  obliged  if  they  would  let  me 
know  them.  The  thought  that  one's  course  is  approved  by  his 
friends  is  consolatory,  —  it  serves  to  strengthen  his  confidence 
in  his  own  judgment.  It  removes  many  cross  currents  that 
would  impede  his  course.  You  it  was  that  first  suggested  my 
application  to  enter  the  military  academy.  Though  the  mili- 
tary academy  was  not  intended  to  make  lawyers,  yet  in  my  case 
I  hope  it  may  be  an  example  that  "  the  longest  way  round  is  the 
shortest  way  home."  I  have  been  very  fortunate  in  making  the 
acquaintance  of  Mr.  Benjamin  Hazard,  whom  (by  report)  you 
must  know.  He  has  the  reputation  of  being  the  first  lawyer  in 
the  State,  and  is  unquestionably  au  fait  with  his  profession. 
He  has  been  so  kind  as  to  give  me  a  great  deal  of  information 
both  with  regard  to  law  and  lawyers  in  this  country,  and  the 
best  method  of  studying  law.  Mr.  Hazard  lent  me  some  time 
since  Warner's  Law  Studies.  I  read  it  through  twice  very 
carefully,  but  much  of  what  he  said  I  thought  totally  inap- 


NEWPORT  71 

plicabie  to  the  profession  in  this  country,  much  that  was  con- 
tradictory, and  some  opinions  I  was  confident  were  wrong.  I 
wish  you  would  write  me  soon  and  give  me  your  opinion  of  my 
course,  which  is  to  remain  in  the  army  till  the  1st  of  August, 
1843,  then  to  resign  and  enter  some  office  in  Boston  or  Newport 
for  three  years.  From  all  I  can  learn,  I  think  that  Jeremiah 
Mason,  of  Boston,  would  be  the  man  for  me.  Whether  he 
takes  students  I  know  not.  Webster,  Mr.  Hazard  tells  me, 
contends  that  Mason  is  the  first  lawyer  in  the  country,  - —  supe- 
rior to  himself.  Remember  me  to  your  own  family,  and  my 
friends  generally. 

Your  nephew, 

I.  I.  Stevens. 

He  also  wrote  on  this  subject  to  his  father,  Mr.  Hazen, 
and  H.  L.  Smith.  All  whom  he  consulted  discouraged 
the  project  except  his  classmate,  Smith.  Mr.  Hazen  ju- 
diciously advises  :  — 

"  It  seems  to  me  to  be  premature  to  determine  quite  so  much 
at  this  time.  It  occurs  to  me  that  you  might  enter  upon  a 
course  of  legal  reading,  which  would  be  useful  to  you  in  any 
station,  uniting  it  with  attention  to  military  duties,  which  would 
consist  with  promotion  in  the  army,  and  leave  a  little  to  the 
future  to  determine  between  the  professions." 

Although  his  increasing  military  duties,  with  his  mar- 
riage and  the  Mexican  war,  compelled  him  to  defer  car- 
rying out  this  plan,  it  was  never  definitely  given  up.  The 
career  open  to  him  in  the  army  did  not  satisfy  his  ambi- 
tion, and  at  last  in  1852  he  resigned,  seeking  a  wider 
field.  Meantime  he  was  keeping  up  his  correspondence 
with  his  classmates  and  friends.     Halleck  writes  :  — 

United  States  Military  Academy, 

West  Point,  February  9,  1840. 

Dear  Stevens,  —  It  is  now  Sunday  morning,  and  I  know  not 

that  I  can  better  employ  the  time  that  will  elapse  before  old 

Jasper  commences  his  oppression,  than  by  writing  an  answer  to 

your  very  kind  letter  of  last  Sabbath.     I  am  happy  to  renew 


72  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

with  you  our  old  friendly  intercourse.  We  have  passed  to- 
gether four  long  years  in  mutual  goodwill  and  then  parted,  I 
Relieve,  as  warm  friends,  and  why  should  we  now  float  away 
from  each  other  towards  the  great  ocean  of  eternity  without 
ever  exchanging  a  friendly  hail  ?  My  old  associates  are  still 
dear  to  me,  and  my  lone  heart  sometimes  softens  when  I  think 
of  the  past  spent  in  their  society.  Indeed,  I  have  here  become 
so  disgusted  with  humbugs,  toadeaters,  and  punsters,  that  my 
heart  gladdens  at  the  receipt  of  a  letter  from  an  old  friend 
whom  I  know  to  be  a  reality  and  no  sham. 

We  have  been  co-workers  in  at  least  one  thing,  the  Dialectic, 
and  I  believe  that  to  us  as  much  or  more  than  to  any  others, 
the  society  owes  its  present  prosperity. 

Sincerely  yours, 

H.  W.  Halleck. 

Tilden,  having  become  involved  in  a  controversy  with 
the  authorities  at  the  Point,  comes  to  Newport  to  consult 
with  Stevens,  who  takes  up  his  case,  advises  him  what  to 
do,  and  writes  Halleck,  Smith,  and  others  in  his  behalf. 
"  My  visit  to  Newport,"  writes  Tilden,  "  was  of  essential 
service  to  me,  and  has  served  to  strengthen  the  good 
resolutions  suggested  by  yourself  and  example." 

H.  L.  Smith,  too,  feeling  aggrieved  at  the  action  of  a 
court-martial  reflecting  upon  his  evidence  as  a  witness, 
has  recourse  to  his  friend  Stevens,  who  responds  in  such 
manner  as  to  call  forth  Smith's  grateful  and  somewhat 
enthusiastic  thanks :  — 

"  I  refer  in  part  to  your  reply  to  Colonel  Totten  at  table. 
Be  assured  I  did  anticipate  your  reply  to  my  request.  But, 
Stevens,  there  are  not  many  who  would  have  taken  the  part  of 
a  friend  as  you  did  with  Colonel  Totten.  I  shall  never  forget 
it  as  an  act  of  friendship,  never  cease  to  admire  it  as  an  act  of 
generous  independence." 

Oliver  visits  him  in  September,  and  in  his  next  letter 
speaks  of  "  our  fine  rides  on  horseback."  Elizabeth  has 
decided  to  go  to  Nashville,  Tenn.,  to  visit  her  uncle 
.Moses,  principal  of  an  academy  there,  in  hopes  of  find- 


NEWPORT  ,  73 

ing  employment  as  a  teacher ;  and  the  father  calls  upon 
his  son  in  Newport  for  pecuniary  assistance,  and  informs 
him  that  Hannah  has  come  home  seriously  ill. 

The  next  letter  from  his  father  contained  the  sad 
intelligence  that  Hannah  was  sinking  fast,  and  urged 
him  to  come  home  immediately.  He  spent  the  last  few 
days  of  life  with  the  dying  girl,  doing  all  in  his  power  to 
comfort  her.     She  died  in  November,  1840. 

On  his  journey  back  to  Newport,  Mr.  Stevens  stopped 
in  Boston  to  hear  a  lecture  by  John  Quincy  Adams,  an 
account  of  which  he  gives  his  father :  — 

"  His  subject  was  the  four  stages  of  man  in  his  progress 
from  the  savage  to  the  civilized  state,  —  first,  as  a  hunter ;  sec- 
ond, as  a  shepherd ;  third,  as  a  tiller  of  the  soil ;  fourth,  as  a 
member  of  a  community  in  which  all  trades,  occupations,  arts, 
and  professions  were  confined  to  their  appropriate  spheres,  each 
receiving  the  protection  and  encouragement  of  all.  His  deliv- 
ery was  very  energetic,  though  uncouth.  His  fancy  was  exu- 
berant, and  his  speculations  were  not  entirely,  it  seemed  to  me, 
supported  by  the  truth  of  history. 

"  I  wrote  to  Susan,  as  you  desired,  and  gave  her  a  detailed 
account  of  Hannah's  illness,  with  such  other  matters  as  I 
thought  would  be  interesting.  Since  I  have  been  back  to  New- 
port, I  have  been  reading  Blackstone  pretty  diligently.  Thus 
far,  I  am  much  pleased  with  him." 

"It  was  a  sad  Thanksgiving  at  the  homestead  this 
year,"  Oliver  writes,  "  so  different  from  the  year  before, 
when  all  were  at  home  except  Susan,  and  death  had  not 
yet  broken  the  family  circle."  Now  all  the  children, 
except  Sarah  and  Oliver,  were  scattered  far  and  wide, 
—  Susan  at  Union,  Mo.,  Elizabeth  at  Nashville,  Tenn., 
Mary  in  Belfast,  Maine,  and  Isaac  in  Newport.  The 
father  was  again  disabled  with  his  leg,  and  unable  to 
attend  the  Thanksgiving  sermon.  Oliver  concludes  his 
pathetic  letter  with  a  wish  to  go  to  West  Point. 


74  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Newport,  December  15, 1840. 

Dear  Brother  Oliver,  —  I  have  been  very  busily  engaged 
since  your  letter  came  to  hand  in  preparing  an  address  to  be 
delivered  before  the  Newport  Lyceum.  As  it  was  the  intro- 
ductory one,  I  felt  very  desirous  that  it  should  be  no  discredit 
to  myself,  and  that  all  proper  expectations  should  be  fully 
realized.  This  is  my  apology  for  not  immediately  answering 
your  letter.  As  the  address  has  been  delivered,  I  will  now 
write  you  briefly  respecting  the  subject-matter  of  the  latter  part 
of  your  communication.  .  .  . 

There  is  nothing  new  here.  I  am  passing  my  time  very 
pleasantly.  We  have  a  debating  club  in  successful  operation, 
consisting  of  about  sixty  members,  —  clergymen,  lawyers,  physi- 
cians, tradesmen,  etc.,  etc.  We  have  a  talk  this  evening  on  the 
French  Revolution;  I  don't  know  whether  I  shall  say  any- 
thing or  not.  Write  as  soon  as  you  can  find  it  convenient. 
Remember  me  to  father,  mother,  and  Sarah,  and  friends  in 
general.  I  hope  father  will  take  every  care  of  his  health.  Is 
it  vacation  with  John  Loring  now?  One  of  his  classmates, 
young  Dunn,  is  at  home  in  Newport. 

Your  brother, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 
Mr.  O.  Stevens. 

Newport,  R.  I.,  January  17, 1840. 
My  dear  Father,  —  As  soon  as  I  get  to  Washington  I 
shall  put  Oliver's  application  on  file  in  the  Department  of  War, 
and  will  obtain  an  interview  with  Mr.  Cushing  to  secure  his 
interposition,  of  which  I  think  we  may  entertain  some  expec- 
tation, as  no  one  has  yet  applied  for  the  vacancy  in  his  district. 
One  of  my  classmates,  Lieutenant  Halleck,  who  is  on  duty  at 
Washington,  was  kind  enough  to  ascertain  and  inform  me  of 
all  cadets  and  applicants  from  Massachusetts,  with  their  dis- 
tricts, and  in  his  list  I  perceive  the  3d  District  is  put  down 
vacant  without  any  applications.  I  have  never  seen  our  repre- 
sentative, for  which  reason  some  might  deem  it  advisable  to 
procure  a  letter  of  introduction ;  but  after  some  consideration  I 
have  concluded  to  take  none,  but  to  introduce  myself.  It  is 
better,  if  successful,  than  the  other  mode  ;  to  be  sure,  the  risk  is 
greater,  —  I  will  run  it,  however.    If  I  make  a  good  impression 


ISAAC    INGALLS   STEVENS 
From  Miniature  by  Staigg,  1841 


NEWPORT  75 

on  Mr.  Cushing  under  the  circumstances  of  a  vacancy  and  no 
application,  it  may  go  far  towards  getting  his  assistance.  I 
will  try  it  at  all  events. 

I  shall  leave  on  Wednesday  and  be  absent  three  weeks.  The 
Armisted  case  comes  up  before  the  Supreme  Court  next  Friday, 
and  will  probably  be  in  progress  the  ensuing  week  ;  this  will  en- 
able me  to  hear  Mr.  John  Quincy  Adams,  of  which  I  am  very 
desirous.  Mr.  Clay's  resolution  respecting  the  repeal  of  the  Sub- 
Treasury  will  soon  be  called  up,  and  will  probably  cause  that 
whole  subject  again  to  be  discussed.  Should  it  call  out  the  able 
men  of  the  Senate  while  I  am  in  Washington,  I  could  not  desire 
a  better  opportunity  to  compare  them.  I  will  write  you  on  my 
arrival,  and  afterwards  from  time  to  time.  You  must  take  good 
care  of  your  health,  and  take  things  easily.  I  know  of  no  one 
that  has  a  better  right.  We  have  nothing  new  in  Newport. 
My  health  is  perfect  both  in  body  and  mind ;  in  other  words,  I 
have  never  had  better  health  in  either  respect.  Give  my  love 
to  all  friends  and  the  family. 

Your  son, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

Writes  Halleck,  January  15,  1841 :  — 

I  hope  to  soon  meet  you  here,  and  enter  into  a  friendly 
interchange  of  thoughts  and  feelings  without  the  formality  of 
paper  and  ink.  I  am  anxious  to  give  you  a  hearty  shake  by 
the  hand  and  welcome  you  to  Washington.  If  you  are  left  to 
your  leisure  hours,  you  will  undoubtedly  have  much  enjoyment 
.  both  in  society  and  in  Congress.  You  must  not  anticipate  too 
much  pleasure  in  the  crowded  parties  of  the  metropolis.  To 
me  they  are  perfect  bores. 

Let  me  know  when  you  are  to  come  on,  and  if  not  imme- 
diately I  will  write  you  a  long  letter.     Read  this  if  you  can. 
Yours  in  the  true  bonds  of  friendship, 

H.  Wager  Halleck. 

Although  unable  to  procure  the  cadet  appointment  for 
Oliver,  he  greatly  enjoyed  his  first  visit  to  the  capital, 
especially  the  debates  in  the  Senate,  where  he  listened  to 
both  Clay  and  Webster.     The  former  impressed  him  as 


76  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

more  a  leader  of  men  and  controller  of  measures  than 
the  latter. 

One  would  think  that  with  his  official  duties,  and 
all  the  studies  and  pursuits  he  was  carrying  on,  every 
minute  of  his  time  must  have  been  taken  up ;  yet  he 
organized  a  course  of  lectures  for  the  winter,  and  himself 
delivered  an  address  on  Oliver  Cromwell,  whose  character 
and  achievements  he  greatly  admired.  In  this  lecture 
he  presented  with  great  force  and  clearness  a  new  and 
original  conception  of  the  great  Puritan,  depicting  him  as 
a  true  patriot  and  a  religious,  God-fearing  man,  obliged 
by  the  circumstances  of  the  times  to  seize  the  helm  of 
state  in  order  to  save  his  country  from  despotism  or  anar- 
chy. This  was  much  the  view  afterwards  so  ably  set 
forth  by  Carlyle.  This  lecture  excited  no  little  atten- 
tion at  the  time ;  and  when  Carlyle's  Cromwell  appeared, 
not  long  afterwards,  it  was  said  that  the  lecture  would 
seem  to  have  been  taken  from  that  work,  had  it  not  been 
delivered  before  that  was  published.  He  afterwards 
delivered  this  lecture  in  Andover  and  other  places. 

In  the  spring  of  1841  he  was  placed  in  charge  of  Fair-, 
haven  Battery  in  New  Bedford,  Mass.,  in  addition  to  his 
duties  in  Newport.  This  required  frequent  trips  to  the 
former'  place,  which  he  usually  made  by  stage,  but  several 
times  he  traversed  the  intervening  country  on  foot.  On 
one  of  these  -trips,  in  an  economical  mood  he  refrained 
from  dinner  in  order  to  save  the  cost  of  the  meal.  Soon 
afterwards  a  lean  and  friendless  dog  attached  himself  to 
him,  and  followed  his  footsteps  so  persistently,  and  looked 
so  piteous  and  hungry,  that  the  young  man's  sensibilities 
were  touched,  and  he  stopped  at  a  farmhouse  and  pur- 
chased a  good  dinner  for  the  half -starved  animal,  which, 
as  he  laughingly  declared,  cost  all  he  had  saved  by  his 
self-denial. 

A  letter  from  Mr.  Bishop  conveyed  the  afflicting  and 


MARGARET   LYMAN    STEVENS 
From  Miniature  by  Staigg,  1841 


UNIVERSITY 

^Califobv^ 


NEWPORT  77 

unlooked-for  intelligence  of  the  death  of  Susan,  April  8, 
1841,  from  pulmonary  disease,  after  a  brief  illness.  Thus 
unexpectedly  passed  away  another  loved  sister,  and  one 
whose  sunny,  affectionate  disposition,  fine  mind,  and  high 
principles  had  especially  endeared  her. 

Benjamin  Hazard  died  March  10,  1841.  During  his 
lingering  illness  he  derived  much  comfort  and  pleasure 
from  the  society  and  attentions  of  the  talented  and  sym- 
pathetic young  man.  He  gladly  sanctioned  his  betrothal 
with  his  daughter  Margaret,  and  willingly  intrusted  the 
future  of  his  beloved  child  to  one  whom  he  both  loved 
and  respected,  and  in  whose  character  and  ability  he  had 
the  fullest  confidence. 

The  marriage  was  solemnized  by  Mr.  Brooks,  Septem- 
ber 8,  1841,  in  the  great  parlor  of  the  old  mansion,  the 
same  apartment  which  witnessed  the  wedding  of  "  Charm- 
ing Polly"  and  her  Revolutionary  hero,  and  of  their 
daughter  Harriet  and  Benjamin  Hazard,  the  parents  of 
the  present  bride. 

It  was  a  quiet  and  simple  ceremony,  so  soon  after  the 
death  of  Mr.  Hazard,  but  the  ample  room  was  well  filled 
with  beautiful  young  girls,  the  sisters  and  cousins  of  the 
bride,  officers  in  full  uniform,  the  companions  of  the 
groom,  and  old  friends  of  the  family.  Hither  came  from 
Andover  the  groom's  brother  Oliver,  and  cousin  Henry 
H.  Stevens,  his  West  Point  friend,  Lieutenant  Jeremy  F. 
Gilmer,,  from  Washington,  Lieutenants  James  L.  Mason, 
Henry  J.  Hunt,  and  Lewis  G.  Arnold,  from  Newport,  and 
a  goodly  number  of  Lymans  and  Dunnells  from  Provi- 
dence, uncles,  aunts,  and  cousins  of  the  bride. 


CHAPTER   VI 

CHARGE    OF  WORKS  :    NEW   BEDFORD,  PORTSMOUTH,  PORT- 
LAND,   BUCKSPORT 

The  wedding  journey  was  to  New  York  by  Long  Is- 
land Sound,  and  thence  up  the  Hudson  to  West  Point, 
where  they  spent  several  days,  and  were  received  with 
flattering  attentions  by  his  old  friends.  With  great  pride 
and  pleasure  Mr.  Stevens  presented  them  to  his  lovely 
bride,  and  revisited  with  her  the  romantic  scenes  of  the 
Point,  endeared  by  so  many  pleasant  associations.  They 
returned  by  way  of  Springfield  and  Boston. 

New  Bedford,  September  24,  1841. 
My  dear  Father,  —  I  was  very  glad  to  see  Oliver  and  my 
cousin  Henry  at  Newport  on  the  occasion  of  my  marriage,  and, 
though  your  presence  would  have  afforded  me  much  pleasure, 
yet,  as  I  well  knew  that  it  was  a  busy  season  with  you,  and  that 
something  very  unusual  only  could  induce  you  to  leave  home.,  I 
was  not  much  disappointed  at  your  not  coming.  You  will  cer- 
tainly see  us  as  early  as  next  Thanksgiving.  We  had  a  most 
pleasant  trip,  were  favored  with  unusually  fine  weather,  and 
were  disappointed  in  no  one  of  our  anticipations.  Margaret  had 
never  visited  West  Point  before,  and  had  always  lived  in  a  coun- 
try the  scenery  of  which  is  very  tame  compared  with  the  alpine 
grandeur  of  the  Highlands.  I  had  said  a  great  deal  to  her 
about  West  Point,  and  I  feared  that  her  expectations  were 
raised  high  above  the  reality.  I  was,  however,  agreeably  sur- 
prised by  her  assertion  that  her  ideas  had  scarcely  approached 
the  truth.  The  day  after  our  arrival  at  West  Point  she  insisted 
upon  climbing  to  the  Crow's  Nest,  which  you  recollect  is  two 
miles  from  West  Point,  and  commands  the  plain  about  twelve 
or  fourteen  hundred  feet.     Finding  that  my  dissuasion  had 


NEW  BEDFORD  79 

little  effect,  I  took  her  up  one  of  the  roughest  ways,  —  in  many 
places  we  had  to  ascend  almost  perpendicular  rocks.  In  one 
hour  and  a  half  we  were  on  the  very  topmost  height  of  the 
mountain.  We  came  back  by  a  rough,  winding,  long  road,  and 
got  to  the  hotel  four  hours  after  leaving  it.  I  call  that  a  pretty 
good  feat  for  a  lady.  From  Hudson  to  Springfield  the  road 
was  completed  except  about  two  miles  near  Chester  Factories. 
It  passes  through  a  most  wild  and  picturesque  country,  follows 
the  valley  of  one  of  the  rivers  that  empties  into  the  Connecticut 
for  some  thirty  miles,  crossing  it  frequently  and  constantly 
changing  direction,  and  is  constructed  in  a  truly  magnificent 
style. 

We  got  back  to  Newport  just  seven  days  after  leaving  it. 
There  I  found  orders  had  been  awaiting  me  two  days  to  repair 
to  New  Bedford,  to  take  charge  of  all  the  repairs  of  the  old  fort. 
You  can  judge  of  the  urgency  of  the  orders  from  my  going  to 
New  Bedford  the  next  day,  and  leaving  Margaret  at  Newport, 
where  she  has  been  ever  since.  We  arrived  at  Newport  about 
four  o'clock  on  Thursday.  I  left  the  next  day  at  two  o'clock, 
made  an  inspection  of  the  fort  on  Saturday  forenoon,  issued 
a  hand-bill  the  same  day  for  mechanics  and  laborers,  and  on 
Monday  morning  had  a  gang  of  about  twenty  men  at  work.  I 
never  was  in  New  Bedford  before,  and  knew  not  a  single  man  in 
the  place.  Monday  morning  I  fell  in  with  a  real  full-blooded 
Yankee,  whom  I  engaged  as  overseer,  and  immediately  sent 
around  the  country  for  stone-cutters  and  masons.  I  went  on 
Monday  into  a  ledge  of  granite  rock,  and  have  already  thrown 
out  about  two  hundred  tons  of  stone,  and  got  about  a  hundred 
feet  cut.  The  people  in  New  Bedford  are  disposed  to  criticise  my 
plans,  but  they  will  find  out  I  know  what  I  am  about,  and  that 
they  had  better  save  their  sneers  for  some  other  object.  After  I 
had  been  at  work  three  days,  I  dismissed  three  men  for  idleness,- 
which  had  a  very  good  effect.  My  plan  is  to  be  rather  familiar 
with  every  man,  but  at  the  same  time  to  make  every  one  feel 
that  he  must  do  his  duty.  To-morrow  I  am  going  to  Newport 
after  Margaret.  I  have  been  so  busy  that  I  have  had  no  time 
to  miss  her.  In  fact,  this  is  the  very  first  moment  since  I 
have  been  in  New  Bedford  that  I  have  been  able  to  write 
home.     Now  my  business  has  got  into  a  regular  course,  and 


80  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVEtfS 

will  require  but  little  time  to  attend  to  it.  Whether  I  shall 
spend  the  winter  in  Newport,  or  New  Bedford,  I  don't  know. 
I  have  at  present  only  orders  to  get  in  readiness  platforms  for 
nine  guns. 

Your  son, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 
Mr.  Isaac  Stevens. 

The  young  couple  boarded  in  Fairhaven,  a  suburb  of 
New  Bedford,  for  several  months,  and  then  removed  to 
the  town.  They  entered  with  lively  interest  into  the 
society  of  the  place,  at  that  time  the  abode  of  many 
wealthy  and  somewhat  aristocratic  families.  Mr.  Stevens 
had  already  made  the  favorable  acquaintance  of  the  first 
people  before  bringing  his  wife  there ;  her  family  and 
personal  attractions  were  known,  and  they  were  cordially 
received.  Mrs.  Hazard  made  them  a  short  visit  during 
the  winter. 

Halleck  asks  his  assistance  in  starting  an  engineering 
journal  for  the  corps. 

I  know  too  well  your  zeal  for  the  profession  to  doubt  for  a 
moment  that  the  measure  will  receive  your  countenance,  and 
the  support  of  your  able  pen.  If  we  succeed  in  the  undertak- 
ing, I  am  quite  sure  that  it  will  be  of  much  advantage  to  us 
individually,  and  will  contribute  greatly  to  the  reputation  of 
the  corps. 

If  the  delights  of  married  life  have  not  entirely  driven 
away  the  recollection  of  old  bachelor  friends,  I  hope  you  will 
again  favor  me  with  one  of  your  old-fashioned  letters.  I  have 
heard  too  much  of  the  attractions  of  your  bride  to  scold 
you  for  so  long  neglecting  me.  From  all'  accounts,  my .  dear 
Stevens,  I  must  pronounce  you  a  most  fortunate  and  happy 
man,  and  I  shall  embrace  the  first  opportunity  to  make  the 
acquaintance  of  your  lady,  and  most  heartily  welcome  her  'into 
our  corps. 

Yours  most  truly, 

H.  Wager  Halleck. 


THANKSGIVING  IN  ANDOTER  81 

The  young  couple  spent  Thanksgiving  in  Andover. 
The  stern  but  true-hearted  father,  deeply  mourning  the 
untimely  loss  of  his  two  elder  daughters,  was  gladdened 
by  the  presence  of  five  children,  —  Sarah,  Isaac,  Oliver, 
Mary,  arid  the  new  daughter,  Margaret.  The  latter  was 
greatly  admired,  and  was  received  with  warm  affection 
and  kindness  by  them,  and  by  uncles  William  and 
Nathaniel  and  their  families.  She  was  highly  interested 
and  pleased  with  the  Thanksgiving  festivities,  a  new 
experience  to  her ;  for  the  Quakers  and  Come-outers  of 
Rhode  Island,  many  of  whom  left  Massachusetts  to  escape 
the  tyranny  of  the  "  Lord  Brethren,"  never  made  much 
of  that  holiday,  but  kept  Christmas  instead. 

After  a  delightful  visit  of  a  week,  they  returned  to 
New  Bedford  and  the  pleasures  of  domestic  life,  and 
for  the  young  husband  what  he  always  enjoyed,  —  hard 
work.  This  seriously  encroached  upon  his  proposed 
course  of  study  and  reading,  yet  with  Mason  he  would 
run  up  to  Providence  to  hear  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson's 
lectures. 

On  June  9,  1842,  their  first  child,  a  boy,  was  born  in 
the  old  Newport  mansion,  and  named  Hazard,  after  his 
maternal  grandfather. 

Newport,  June  9,  1842. 
My  dear  Father,  —  I  came  here  last  Friday  with  the  inten- 
tion of  returning  to  New  Bedford  on  Monday,  but  I  was  seized 
with  a  very  violent  bilious  attack  that  kept  me  in  the  house 
for  a  day  or  two.  The  physician  that  was  called  prescribed 
calomel,  and  I  was  fool  enough  to  take  it,  the  consequence  of 
which  is  that  instead  of  being  perfectly  well  to-day,  as  I  should 
otherwise  have  been,  I  have  a  pain  in  my  bones,  and  not  half 
the  elasticity  that  generally  attends  my  recovery.  However, 
calomel  or  no  calomel,  I  don't  regret  my  illness,  for  it  has  been 
the  cause  of  my  being  in  Newport  at  a  most  interesting  moment. 
Early  this  morning  Margaret  was  safely  delivered  of  a  fine, 
healthy  boy,  after  an  uncommonly  short  and  easy  labor.     She 


82  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

was  fortunate  in  the  attendance  of  a  most  judicious,  skillful, 
and  experienced  physician,  a  younger  brother  of  her  father, 
who  has  been  in  an  extensive  practice  for  more  than  forty 
years.  Now,  father,  you  may  fairly  say  that  you  have  a  right 
to  your  gray  hairs.  Gray  hairs  and  grandfathers  always  go 
together.  The  little  fellow  has  been  squalling  most  unmerci- 
fully this  morning,  and  seems  to  take  it  for  granted  that  no 
one's  convenience  is  to  be  consulted  but  his  own.  If  he  will 
but  show  the  same  energy  in  the  development  of  his  other 
faculties,  we  may  expect  great  things  of  him. 

Your  son, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

During  the  greater  part  of  this  year  Oliver  pursues  his 
studies  at  Phillips  Academy  in  South  Andover;  Sarah  is 
teaching  an  unruly  school  in  Saugus,  Mass.,  where  she 
punishes  a  refractory  boy,  maintains  order,  and  overcomes 
the  unreasonable  anger  of  the  boy's  parents  in  a  way 
that  proves  her  gifted  with  much  firmness,  decision,  and 
good  sense.  Only  Mary  remains  at  home.  She  writes  : 
"  We  had  a  fugitive  slave  to  spend  the  night  with  us. 
He  was  as  black  a  person  as  I  ever  saw."  So  it  appears 
that  the  old  Abolitionist  is  doing  his  part  towards  the 
"underground  railroad,"  as  harboring  and  forwarding 
fugitive  slaves  was  termed. 

Elizabeth,  in  Tennessee,  became  engaged  in  the  spring 
to  Mr.  L.  M.  Campbell,  a  promising  young  lawyer,  and 
they  were  married  September  9. 

After  the  birth  of  the  child,  Mr.  Stevens  and  his  wife 
went  to  keeping  house  in  New  Bedford.  Sarah  visited 
them  in  the  winter,  and  on  her  return  home  in  March, 
1843,  they  accompanied  her  as  far  as  Boston,  where  they 
remained  a  week  while  Mr.  Stevens  attended  to  some 
engineering  duties  on  one  of  the  islands  in  the  harbor. 
In  April  he  was  again  in  Boston,  while  his  young  wife 
was  visiting  her  mother  in  Newport  for  election  day  in 
May,  when  the  state  government  was  to  be  inaugurated. 


CHARGE  OF  WORKS  83 

Lieutenant  Stevens  received  orders  to  assume  charge 
of  the  fortifications  at  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  to  which  those 
at  Portland,  Maine,  were  added  soon  afterwards.  These 
consisted  of  Forts  Constitution  and  Scammell  at  the 
former,  and  Forts  Preble  and  McClary  at  the  latter 
place.  Breaking  up  housekeeping  at  New  Bedford  in 
1843,  and  leaving  his  wife  and  boy  in  Newport,  and  the 
little  stock  of  furniture  and  belongings  stored  in  the 
old  mansion  temporarily,  Lieutenant  Stevens  proceeded 
to  Portsmouth  and  took  charge  of  the  works.  Having 
in  his  ever  prompt  and  energetic  manner  set  everything 
under  way,  he  returned  to  Newport,  and  brought  his 
little  family  to  the  new  station.  They  boarded  for  a 
short  time,  then  he  leased  a  spacious  house,  using  a  por- 
tion of  it  as  an  office.  They  speedily  found  themselves 
among  warm  friends  and  pleasant  surroundings.  Lieu- 
tenant Tom  Breese,  of  the  navy,  a  generous,  whole-souled 
gentleman,  who  had  married  Lucy  Randolph,  a  cousin  of 
Mrs.  Stevens,  was  stationed  at  the  navy  yard,  and  made 
them  more  than  welcome.  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Whipple,  of 
the  engineers,  a  fellow  student  at  West  Point,  was  conduct- 
ing a  survey  of  the  harbor.  He  became  a  major-general, 
commanded  the  third  division,  third  corps,  Army  of  the 
Potomac,  and  was  mortally  wounded  at  the  battle  of  Chan- 
cellorsville.  There  were  also  Colonel  Crane,  Captain  Stan- 
berry,  and  Lieutenants  William  H.  Fowler  and  Joseph 
Hooker,  of  the  army,  and  Major  Harris,  of  the  marines. 
Hooker  afterwards  rose  to  be  major-general,  and  com- 
manded the  Army  of  the  Potomac  at  Chancellorsville. 
Portsmouth,  like  Newport,  had  its  old  families  and  culti- 
vated and  agreeable  society,  which  cordially  received  the 
young  engineer  officer  and  his  wife.  Among  the  first  to 
call  upon  Mrs.  Stevens  were  Mrs.  John  L.  Hayes  and  Mrs. 
Samuel  Elliott  Coues,  two  beautiful  young  women,  the 
daughters  of  Mr.  Alexander  Ladd,  and  a  warm  friendship 


84  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

grew  up  between  the  families,  which  continued  after  all 
three  moved  to  Washington  in  after  years. 

In  Portland,  only  a  few  miles  distant,  resided  Rev.  Asa 
Cummings,  Mr.  Stevens's  maternal  uncle,  the  editor  of 
the  "  Christian  Mirror,"  and  his  house  was  always  open 
to  the  young  couple  like  a  second  home.  During  the 
winter  Mrs.  Stevens's  sister  Mary  visited  them.  There 
was  much  social  visiting  and  many  entertainments  ;  they 
attended  the  marriage  of  Lieutenant  Whipple  and  Miss 
Sherburne.  They  were  on  board  the  frigate  Portsmouth 
when  she  was  launched  at  the  navy  yard. 

Mr.  Stevens  found  his  hands  full,  with  the  two  sets 
of  works  intrusted  to  him,  and  was  obliged  to  spend  no 
little  time  in  traveling  between  them.  At  Fort  Preble 
he  planned  and  built  the  barracks,  conceded  to  be  among 
the  best  arranged  in  the  country.  Having  to  cross  the 
harbor  frequently  in  his  visits  to  the  fort,  he  had  built 
at  Newport  one  of  the  catboats  for  which  that  town 
was  famous,  and  had  it  brought  to  Portland.  He  also 
brought  on  from  New  Bedford  a  faithful  retainer,  named 
Daniel  Murphy,  and  put  him  in  charge  of  the  boat. 

In  addition  to  these  onerous  and  responsible  duties,  he 
was  placed  in  sole  charge  of  the  fortification  of  the  nar- 
rows of  the  Penobscot  River,  where  it  was  decided  to  build 
a  regular,  bastioned,  casemated  work  for  forty  guns  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  opposite  Bucksport,  to  be 
named  Fort  Knox.  Mr.  Stevens  visited  Bucksport  in 
July,  1843,  on  this  new  duty.  The  first  thing  to  be  done 
was  to  purchase  the  site  for  the  fort,  and  for  this  purpose 
he  sought  the  owners  of  the  land  and  made  arrangements 
with  them.  One  of  these,  an  old  farmer,  not  deeming 
it  possible  that  the  government  could  be  represented  in 
so  important  a  matter  by  so  young,  boyish-looking,  and 
unassuming  a  man,  refused  to  talk  with  him,  and  soon 
afterwards,  meeting  an  acquaintance,  complained  to  him 


VISITS  BUCKSPOKT  AND  CASTINE  85 

about  that  young  fellow,  a  mere  boy,  talking  to  him  as  to 
buying  his  farm  for  the  government,  etc.  To  his  aston- 
ishment, his  friend  assured  him  that  he  had  made  a  great 
mistake,  that  the  young  man  was  Lieutenant  Stevens,  of 
the  engineer  corps,  who  had  entire  charge  of  building 
the  fort,  and  advised  him  to  lose  no  time  in  seeking  the 
young  officer  and  explaining  his  mistake,  which  he  made 
haste  to  do.  This  incident  shows  how  youthful  Mr. 
Stevens  appeared  at  that  time,  although  twenty-five  years 
old,  a  husband  and  a  father.  He  was  always  quiet  and 
unobtrusive  in  manner,  without  a  trace  of  self-assertion 
or  pretentiousness ;  and  the  marked  impression  he  made 
upon  all  with  whom  he  came  in  contact  was  due  to  real 
superiority  of  mind  and  spirit,  and  not  to  any  adventi- 
tious advantages  of  stature  or  manner. 

He  also,  in  July,  visited  Castine,  and  inspected  and 
reported  upon  the  old  works  there,  which  had  been,  for- 
tified and  held  by  the  British  during  the  war  of  1812. 

His  sisters  were  again  widely  scattered  from  their 
father's  house.  During  the  summer  Sarah  was  staying 
with  uncle  Asa  Cummings,  and,  being  attacked  by  a 
severe  cough,  Mary  came  there  to  wait  upon  her,  and  also 
to  attend  school.  Their  brother  Isaac  constantly  visited 
them,  and  supplied  them  with  books  and  comforts.  He 
also  freely  aided  Oliver  with  funds.  He  was  at  North 
Yarmouth  fitting  for  college,  and  helping  himself  by 
teaching  school. 

With  all  these  calls  upon  him,  Mr.  Stevens  was  obliged 
to  ask  his  father  to  repay  — 

"  as  much,  not  exceeding  one  hundred  dollars,  as  you  can  con- 
veniently raise.  My  expenses  in  the  way  of  traveling  have 
been  very  heavy  this  year.  Three  journeys  to  Bangor  already, 
and  two  more  in  contemplation,  besides  quite  a  number  between 
Portland  and  Portsmouth.  With  this  I  send  you  the  '  National 
Anti-Slavery  Standard,'  the  organ  of  the  American  Anti-Sla- 


86  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

very  Society.  I  have  just  commenced  taking  the  paper.  I  like 
its  spirit  and  views  much." 

In  this  letter  he  speaks  of  spending  four  days  in  Port- 
land, and  finding  Sarah  improved  and  Mary  well ;  gives 
a  long  account  of  the  condition  and  medical  treatment 
of  the  former,  and  suggests  means  for  her  recovery  and 
plans  for  Mary's  education.  These  sisters  were  very  dear 
to  him,  and  he  was  very  solicitous  for  their  welfare.  But 
Sarah  rapidly  grew  worse  with  quick  consumption,  and 
died  February  8, 1844,  only  twenty-two  years  old.  After 
her  death,  Mary  returned  home. 

One  day  at  Portsmouth,  as  Mr.  Stevens  was  at  work 
in  his  office  and  his  young  wife  was  at  the  window,  her 
attention  was  attracted  by  a  unique  vehicle  coining  down 
the  street,  followed  by  a  tail  of  small  boys  in  high  glee. 
This  was  a  rude  sleigh  fashioned  out  of  poles,  and  drawn 
by  a  rough-looking  nag,  whose  coat  was  innocent  of  cur- 
rycomb and  brush.  Seated  on  a  box  in  the  bottom  of 
the  sleigh,  and  driving  the  horse  with  entire  unconcern 
at  the  attention  he  was  attracting,  was  a  large,  tall  man, 
with  light  hair  and  fair,  florid  complexion,  clad  in  home- 
spun garb,  the  very  type  of  an  independent  backwoods 
farmer.  Stopping  at  the  door,  he  inquired  for  Leftenant 
Stevens,  who  ran  down,  and  was  surprised  and  pleased 
to  find  in  the  rustic  caller  one  of  his  mother's  brothers, 
John  Cummings,  from  Albany,  on  his  way  to  Andover. 
How  uncle  John  received  a  warm  welcome,  how  he  was 
brought  in  and  given  a  hearty  supper,  while  his  team  was 
sent  around  to  the  nearest  stable,  and  how  he  was  loaded 
with  viands  and  supplies  enough  to  last  the  remainder 
of  his  journey  when  he  resumed  it,  may  be  imagined. 
Such  an  opportunity  to  dispense  hospitality  to  one  of  his 
relatives  was  a  source  of  unalloyed  pleasure  to  the  young 
officer. 

The  laying  out  and  starting  the   fort   at   Bucksport 


OVERWORKING  87 

engrossed  most  of  his  attention  in  the  spring  of  1844. 
The  care  of  important  works  at  three  different  places 
necessitated  incessant  traveling,  besides  which  he  had  to 
visit  Boston  periodically  to  obtain  and  bring  down  the 
public  funds  required.  With  all  these  duties  and  cares 
he  was  more  than  fully  occupied,  and  was  obliged  to  lay 
aside,  for  the  present  at  least,  his  projected  law  studies. 
He  also  sent  abroad  and  purchased  a  number  of  French 
works  on  fortifications  and  military  history.  He  became 
deeply  interested  in  the  forts  under  his  charge,  and  was 
indefatigable  in  urging  upon  the  Engineer  Bureau  in 
Washington  improvements  and  measures  which  his  active 
mind  was  quick  to  observe.  Indeed,  in  his  zeal  he  over- , 
worked  himself,  and  was  prostrated  with  severe  sickness 
in  consequence.  "  You  work  too  hard,"  writes  his  sister 
Mary ;  "  you  will  not  live  five  years  unless  you  take  busi- 
ness easier."  During  the  summer  he  was  able  to  give 
Oliver  employment  on  Fort  Preble,  and  writes  his  father 
that  "  Oliver  has  acquitted  himself  with  credit ;  had  to 
manage  a  gang  of  twenty-five  men." 

Mrs.  Stevens  spent  part  of  the  summer  at  her  mother's 
house  in  Newport,  where,  on  June  27,  their  second  child 
was  born,  a  daughter,  named  Julia  Virginia.  Early 
in  August  Mr.  Stevens  went  to  Newport  to  escort  his 
little  family  to  Bucksport.  They  spent  several  days  in 
Andover,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Stevens's  sister  Nancy, 
where  they  met  Elizabeth  and  her  husband,  just  arrived 
from  Tennessee  on  a  visit.  Mary  was  at  home,  and  there 
was  a  pleasant  family  reunion.  After  this  agreeable 
little  visit  they  went  to  Boston  and  took  the  steam- 
boat for  Bucksport,  Miss  Nancy  Hazard  returning  to 
Newport. 

In  the  fall  Elizabeth  and  Mr.  Campbell  returned  to 
Tennessee,  after  a  round  of  visits  to  her  relatives  in 
Massachusetts  and  Maine.     Mary  accompanied  them. 


88  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Arriving  at  Bucksport  the  last  of  August,  they  found 
quarters  at  an  old-fashioned  country  tavern,  the  only 
hotel  in  the  place,  where  they  had  comfortable  though 
rustic  accommodations.  The  principal  people,  with  the 
cordial  hospitality  characteristic  of  Maine,  welcomed  them 
to  the  town. 

At  first  many,  like  the  old  farmer,  were  disposed  to 
sneer  at  the  young  stripling,  but  the  energetic,  thorough- 
going, and  effective  way  in  which  he  organized  and  drove 
on  the  works,  his  decided,  self-reliant  character,  sound, 
sensible  conversation,  and  simple,  direct  manners,  soon 
won  their  approval  and  admiration,  and  he  became  a 
great  favorite,  and  much  respected  and  looked  up  to 
as  well  as  liked.  After  a  short  sojourn  at  the  tavern, 
he  leased  a  large,  roomy  house  of  Judge  Pond,  half  of 
which  he  set  apart  as  an  office,  and  made  his  residence 
in  the  other  half.  Kidder  Kandolph,  a  cousin  of  Mrs. 
Stevens,  was  employed  as  chief  clerk,  and  with  his  wife, 
nee  Isabella  Updike,  came  on  from  Newport.  He  also 
employed  in  the  office  Mr.  Isaac  Osgood,  a  fellow-towns- 
man from  Andover,  and  on  the  works,  as  assistant,  Mr. 
Abiel  W.  Tinkham. 

The  Penobscot  at  this  point  is  some  half  a  mile  wide, 
with  a  strong  tidal  current.  For  crossing  the  river  he 
provided  a  four-oared  barge,  over  which  Daniel  Murphy 
was  installed  as  coxswain.  Every  morning  the  young 
engineer  officer  would  cross  the  river  to  supervise  the 
works,  and  return  to  the  town  late  in  the  afternoon  or  in 
the  evening.  A  large  force  was  set  to  work.  Soon  deep 
excavations,  great  banks  of  earth,  and  vast  piles  of  granite 
and  other  materials  attested  the  vigor  with  which  the  con- 
struction was  pushed.  He  visited  many  quarries  far  and 
near,  and  examined  and  tested  the  granite.  As  this  mate- 
rial was  landed  in  great,  heavy  blocks  and  masses  on  the 
river- bank,  and  had  to  be  hauled  thence  to  the  works  up  a 


BUILDING  FORT  KNOX  89 

considerable  ascent,  he  bought  many  oxen  for  the  purpose, 
scouring  the  country  for  the  largest  and  finest  to  be  had. 
In  these  teams  he  took  great  pride,  and  especially  enjoyed 
taking  friends  and  visitors  to  see  them.  He  was  also 
quite  proud  of  his  ability  to  select  good  workmen  from 
their  appearance.  A  well-shaped  head,  with  a  full,  high 
forehead,  he  used  to  say,  denoted  a  good  man,  reliable, 
intelligent,  and  industrious. 

The  lonely  old  man  in  Andover  writes  a  pathetic  letter 
to  Isaac  in  December,  urging  him  to  make  him  a  visit. 
Of  his  seven  children,  not  one  was  at  home  at  Thanks- 
giving. Three  daughters  had  died ;  the  remaining  two 
were  far  distant  in  Tennessee ;  Isaac  was  in  Bucksport, 
and  Oliver  in  North  Yarmouth.  With  deep  feeling  the 
aged  and  lonely  father  writes :  "  My  children,  —  you  may 
well  suppose  I  thought  of  them." 

Mr.  Stevens  again  had  a  severe  sickness  in  the  winter, 
the  result  probably  of  overwork,  although  he  used  to  say 
that  the  cold  winter  climate  of  Maine  did  not  agree  with 
him,  that  it  rendered  his  faculties  torpid  or  benumbed. 
In  February,  however,  he  visited  Washington,  and  was 
present  at  Polk's  inauguration  as  President.  He  em- 
braced this  opportunity  to  urge  upon  Colonel  Totten, 
chief  of  engineers,  the  need  of  increased  appropriations 
for  the  works  under  his  charge,  and  with  such  success  that 
the  other  engineer  officers  complained  that  Stevens  had 
left  no  funds  for  their  works. 

During  1845  Mr.  Stevens  was  vigorously  pushing  the 
building  of  Fort  Knox,  as  well  as  attending  to  the  works 
at  Portland  and  Portsmouth.  In  May  he  received  a  con- 
fidential letter  from  Colonel  Totten,  asking  if  he  desired 
transfer  to  and  promotion  in  one  of  the  new  regiments 
about  to  be  raised,  which,  with  his  characteristic  reply,  is 
given :  — 


90  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

[confidential.] 

Engineer  Department, 
Washington,  28th  May,  1845. 
Lieutenant  Isaac  I.  Stevens, 

Corps  of  Engineers,  Bucksport,  Maine  : 
JSir,  —  In  case  of  an  increase  of  the  military  establishment 
at  the  next  session  of  Congress,  I  shall  probably  be  called  upon 
to  know  if  any  officers  of  engineers  desire  a  transfer  to  the  new- 
forces,  with  promotion. 

Would  you  desire  such  a  transfer?  "What  is  the  lowest 
grade  that  you  would  be  willing  to  accept  ?  And  in  what  arm 
of  the  service  ? 

Very  respectfully,  your  obt.  svt., 

Joseph  G.  Totten,  Col.  and  Ch.  Eng. 

I  have  already  been  spoken  to  on  this  subject  by  one  high  in 
authority. 

Bucksport,  Maine,  June  24,  1845. 
Colonel  Joseph  G.  Totten, 

Chief  Engineer,    Washington : 

Sir,  —  In  answer  to  the  confidential  circular  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  the  28th  ultimo,  asking  if  I  should  desire  a  transfer 
with  promotion  to  the  new  forces,  in  case  of  an  increase  of  the 
military  establishment  at  the  next  session  of  Congress,  I  beg  to 
say  generally  and  comprehensively  that  I  hold  myself  in  readi- 
ness to  discharge  to  the  best  of  my  ability  the  duties  of  any 
position  which  shall  enlarge  my  sphere  of  action  and  of  useful- 
ness, and  with  which,  in  the  judgment  of  those  intrusted  with 
the  administration  of  public  affairs,  I  may  be  deemed  worthy 
to  be  invested  ;  promotion  or  no  promotion,  in  my  own  corps  or 
in  any  other  corps  or  department  of  the  public  service,  and 
whether  the  field  of  duty  be  in  Oregon,  California,  or  at  the 
North  Pole. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens,  Lieut  of  EngWs. 

This  reply  evinces  a  certain  impatience,  or  disapproval, 
at  the  idea  of  consulting  the  personal  wishes  and  prefer- 
ences of  an  officer  as  to  his  assignment  to  duty.  Mr. 
Stevens  always  held  high  ideals  of  public  duty,  —  many 


BUILDING  FORT  KNOX  91 

would  deem  them  quixotic  and  overstrained.  He  ever 
deemed  it  the  duty  of  appointing  officers  to  select  the 
ablest  and  best-fitted  man  for  any  post  or  service  that 
could  be  found,  and  that  it  was  the  duty  of  every  public 
officer  to  serve  with  complete  self-abnegation  and  patri- 
otic zeal.  His  whole  career  proved  the  sincerity  of  his 
convictions  on  this  point. 

In  consequence  of  the  hostile  attitude  assumed  by 
Mexico  upon  the  admission  of  Texas  into  the  Union 
against  her  protests,  Colonel  Totten,  on  June  8,  writes 
the  following  confidential  order  :  — 

"  In  all  the  forts  under  your  charge  (including  the  narrows 
of  the  Penobscot)  you  should,  as  soon  as  it  can  be  done  advan- 
tageously, place  all  your  batteries  in  a  state  of  perfect  readi- 
ness for  guns,  leaving  nothing  to  be  done  but  the  mounting  of 
the  guns  when  they  shall  arrive.  It  is  of  infinite  importance, 
should  any  exigency  arise,  that  the  preparation  of  the  country 
shall  not  be  found  deficient  in  any  manner  depending  on  the 
Engineer  Department." 

General  Taylor  with  a  small  force  was  thrown  into 
Texas  to  protect  the  newly  acquired  State,  and  the  in- 
creasing probabilities  of  war  with  Mexico  were  eagerly 
discussed  by  the  ambitious  young  army  officers.  In  Sep- 
tember Mr.  Stevens  accompanied  Colonel  Totten  on  a 
tour  of  inspection  of  all  the  works  under  his  charge,  and 
entertained  him  and  Mrs.  Totten  for  several  days  at  his 
house  in  Bucksport. 

Mr.  Stevens  was  never  so  well  pleased  as  when  dispens- 
ing hospitality  in  his  own  house.  He  was  continually 
bringing  friends  home  to  dinner,  often  on  short  notice, 
and  always  liked  to  have  some  of  his  relatives  visiting  him. 
His  wife's  sister  Nancy  spent  the  summer  with  them.*  Bro- 
ther Oliver,  uncle  William's  daughter  Eliza  and  son  Wil- 
liam, Mrs.  Hazard  and  her  son  Thomas,  and  sister,  Miss 
Eliza  B.  Lyman,  and  uncle  Nathaniel,  also  visited  them, 


92  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and,  after  much  urging,  his  father,  from  Andover,  was 
induced  to  make  a  brief  visit.  He  employed  Oliver  again 
this  summer  on  Fort  Preble.  Always  ready  and  glad  to 
serve  any  relative  or  friend,  he  saw  to  the  purchasing 
and  shipping  of  several  cargoes  of  hay  for  uncle  Nathan- 
iel, declining  to  accept  any  recompense  for  his  services. 

On  December  7  the  little  girl,  Julia  Virginia,  died  of 
water  on  the  brain,  after  a  brief  illness.  She  was  a 
beautiful,  gentle  child,  and  a  great  pet  of  her  father,  who 
delighted  to  place  her  on  his  office  table  when  he  was  at 
work,  oftentimes  to  the  sad  disarrangement  of  his  plans 
and  drawings,  and  her  death  was  a  severe  affliction.  The 
following  beautiful  lines  were  written  by  Mr.  Brooks,  in 
condolence  upon  the  sad  loss :  — 

"  Well  with  the  child?  "     Ah,  yes,  't  is  well 
With  that  bright  creature  evermore, 
Gone  up,  'mid  seraph  bands  to  dwell 
With  God  on  yonder  starry  shore. 

"  Well  with  the  child?  "     Ah,  yes,  't  is  well, 
Though  marble-cold  that  lily  brow, 
And  though  no  sage  nor  seer  can  tell 

Where  soars  the  mind  that  beamed  there  now. 

"  Well  with  the  child?  "     Ah,  yes,  't  is  well, 
Though  still  in  death  that  speaking  eye; 
A  shadow  o'er  the  spirit  fell  — 
'T  is  past  —  a  star  is  in  the  sky! 

«  Well  with  the  child?  "     Ah,  yes,  't  is  well 
With  her,  that  sweet  and  guileless  one; 
Toll  not  for  her  the  gloomy  knell, 

Though  gilds  her  grave  the  morning  sun. 

"  Well  with  the  child?  "     Ah,  yes,  't  is  well, 
And  well  with  us  who  mourn,  if  we, 
By  penitence  made  pure,  might  dwell, 
Sweet  child  of  God!  with  Him  and  thee. 

During  the  winter  Mr.  Stevens  organized  a  course  of 
lectures  for  the  Bucksport  Lyceum,  delivering  one  lecture 


ENGINEER  COMPANY  93 

himself,  and  writing  to  lecturers  in  different  parts  of  the 
country,  engaging  their  services,  and  inviting  them  to 
his  house.  Among  the  lecturers  and  subjects  were  :  John 
A.  Peters,  on  "  The  Profession  of  Politics  ;  "  William  B. 
Merton,  on  "American  Literature;  "  J.  A.  Smith,  on  "The 
Present  State  of  English  Poetry ;  "  Henry  Giles,  George 
Shepard,  and  others,  whose  subjects  are  not  known.  He 
also  became  interested  in  organizing  a  Unitarian  Church 
in  Bucksport,  and  corresponded  with  Dr.  A.  P.  Peabody 
in  regard  to  a  pastor,  etc.,  but  it  was  found  impracticable 
to  do  this. 

Mr.  Stevens  was  never  a  sportsman  or  fisherman ; 
indeed,  he  kept  himself  so  immersed  in  work  as  never  to 
have  time  for  field  sports,  yet  he  was  especially  fond  of 
the  noble  salmon  which  were  taken  in  the  Penobscot,  and 
delighted  to  send  fine,  handsome  specimens  of  this  noble 
fish  to  his  father,  Mrs.  Hazard,  and  other  friends.  He 
had  a  fish- weir  built  below  the  fort,  in  which  many  fish 
were  taken  at  times. 

Convinced  of  the  desirability  of  organizing  a  body  of 
engineer  troops  as  part  of  the  army,  for  several  years 
Mr.  Stevens  kept  writing  urgent  memorials  and  letters  to 
the  Engineer  or  War  Department  in  advocacy  of  the 
plan.  In  those  days  the  rank  and  file  were  nearly  all 
foreigners,  and  far  inferior  in  character  to  the  regular 
soldiers  of  the  present  day.  For  the  engineer  troops  he 
advocated  enlisting  American  young  men  of  intelligence, 
good  character  and  physique,  putting  them  under  a  thor- 
ough course  of  instruction,  with  strict  discipline,  in  order 
"  to  raise  them  to  the  highest  state  of  discipline  and 
efficiency,  a  fair  representation  of  what  an  American 
army  might  and  should  be,  so  that  every  man  in  the  com- 
pany can,  if  he  chooses  to  study  and  do  his  duty,  become 
a  good  clerk,  overseer,  or  practical  engineer."  More- 
over, in  case  of  war,  or  an  increase  of  the  army,  some 


94  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

of  the  best  qualified  and  most  deserving  men  might  be 
given  commissions.  He  was  deeply  impressed  with  and 
admired  Cromweirs  policy  of  raising  his  "  ironsides " 
amono-  men  of  good  family  and  substance,  discarding 
"  serving-men  and  tapsters/'  and  was  full  of  the  idea  of 
making  the  American  army  as  honorable  for  the  common 
soldier  as  for  the  officer.  The  soundness  of  these  views 
is  now  becoming  recognized,  and  within  the  last  few 
years  steps  have  been  taken  to  raise  the  standard  of  reg- 
ular soldiers  by  enlisting  only  the  better  class  of  men, 
and  giving  them  more  instruction,  advantages,  and  oppor- 
tunities, even  to  appointing  officers  from  the  ranks. 

At  length  the  War  Department  decided  to  allow  the 
raising  of  an  engineer  company,  and  Lieutenant  Stevens 
issued  circulars  calling  for  men,  and  personally  enlisted 
the  first  soldier  in  the  new  corps,  private  Lathrop.  The 
company  formed  part  of  Scott's  army  in  Mexico,  where  it 
rendered  distinguished  service  under  Captain  G.  W.  Smith 
and  Lieutenant  George  B.  McClellan,  the  former  of  whom 
became  a  Confederate  major-general,  and  the  latter  was 
the  well-known  commander  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac. 

In  July,  1846,  Mr.  Stevens  was  in  Boston  loading  a 
vessel  with  material  for  Fort  Knox.  During  this  sum- 
mer Mrs.  Stevens's  eldest  sister,  Miss  Emily  L.  Hazard, 
with  her  little  nephew,  Charlie  Brooks,  made  them  a  visit, 
and  two  other  sisters,  Mary  and  Nancy,  spent  the  summer 
and  fall  with  them. 

The  Mexican  war  was  now  in  full  progress  with  Tay- 
lor's campaign  on  the  Rio  Grande,  and  Lieutenant 
Stevens,  ambitious  for  active  service,  but  unwilling  to 
urge  his  personal  wishes,  writes  the  chief  of  engineers 
that  sedentary  employment  is  prejudicial  to  his  health, — 
needs  exercise  in  the  open  air,  —  would  respond  with 
alacrity  to  any  call  made  upon  him  for  service  in  Mexico, 
adding  that  he  makes  no  personal  application,  but  simply 


CHARGE  OF  WORKS  95 

states  facts,  etc.  At  last,  on  December  25,  he  received 
his  orders,  and  in  two  hours  was  speeding  by  sleigh  over 
snow-drifted  roads  to  Bangor,  reaching  Portland  the  next 
day,  and  Boston  the  28th.  Miss  Nancy  Hazard  went, 
under  his  escort,  as  far  as  Boston,  returning  home.  Miss 
Mary  remained  in  Bucksport  to  spend  the  winter  with 
her  sister,  who  needed  her  society  and  care,  for  on  No- 
vember 20,  the  second  daughter,  Sue,  was  born. 


CHAPTER  VII 

VOYAGE   TO   MEXICO 

Boston,  Mass.,  December  29, 1846. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  We  reached  Boston  yesterday  at  half 
past  twelve,  after  a  very  pleasant  journey  from  Bangor.  The 
weather  was  unusually  mild,  and  we  experienced  very  little 
fatigue.  Nancy  took  the  afternoon  cars  for  Providence.  This 
afternoon  the  steamer  Perry  runs  to  Newport  and  will  take  her 
home. 

I  shall  not  sail  probably  till  Saturday. 

I  have  determined  to  take  out  a  complete  equipment,  even  to 
a  servant.  I  am  causing  inquiries  to  be  made  this  morning, 
and  in  case  I  find  no  one  to  my  mind,  I  shall  send  for  Daniel 
Murphy.  Daniel  would  be  so  devoted  to  me.  If  I  were  sick 
he  would  take  care  of  me.  Daniel,  too,  would  feel  with  me  per- 
fectly secure  from  all  harm.  The  quartermaster  will  furnish 
me  here  with  a  camp  equipage.  I  shall  provide  myself  with 
a  saddle,  india-rubber  leggings,  and  everything  complete,  so 
that  not  for  a  single  instant  shall  I  be  delayed  on  reaching  my 
destination.  Immediately  on  my  landing  I  wish  to  be  ready 
for  service.  I  may  take  out  a  horse.  I  wish  some  of  my  good 
friends  would  present  me  one.  I  should  want  a  horse  worth 
three  hundred  dollars. 

I  have  sent  for  Oliver  to  spend  the  day  with  me  to-morrow. 
I  thought  it  best  not  to  send  for  father.  It  will  be  hard  for 
him  to  part  with  me,  and  he  had  better  stay  at  home. 

Since  leaving  you  my  mind  has  dwelt  much  upon  my  little 
family.  I  know  you  will  look  on  the  bright  side.  In  all  can- 
dor, I  consider  my  life  as  safe  in  Mexico  as  in  Maine.  I  hope 
to  get  a  sound  constitution,  and  to  come  back  to  you,  my  dear 
Margaret,  in  due  season,  sound  in  body  and  none  the  worse 
for  wear.  You  have  a  treasure  in  your  own  mother  and  bro- 
thers and  sisters.    Mary  is  with  you.     I  feel  grateful  to  her  for 


VOYAGE  TO  MEXICO  97 

giving  up  so  promptly  her  own  wishes  to  stay  with  you.  I 
hope  you  will  have  a  pleasant  winter.  Keep  up  your  spirits, 
and  have  faith  in  the  future  and  in  the  God  of  the  future.  I 
go  to  Mexico  without  a  single  foreboding.  I  have  faith,  almost 
implicit  faith,  that  I  shall  come  back.     Have  faith  with  me. 

So  long  as  I  remain  in  Boston  you  shall  hear  from  me  every 
day.     Love  to  Mary  and  the  chicks. 

Affectionately  yours, 

Isaac. 

Boston,  Mass.,  December  30, 1846. 

My  dear  Margaret,  —  Oliver  has  come  down  to  pass  the 
day  with  me.  We  are  hard  at  work  preparing  inventories  and 
getting  everything  ready.  We  have  a  fine  vessel,  and  I  look 
forward  to  a  pleasant  passage. 

Oliver  brought  me  the  sad  intelligence  of  the  death  of  Eliza- 
beth on  the  10th  of  December.  Campbell  wrote  further  a  most 
feeling  and  excellent  letter.  Elizabeth  suffered  but  little,  and 
everything  was  done  for  her  that  could  be  suggested  by  the 
forethought  of  the  most  devoted  of  husbands. 

Her  child  was  very  well.  Mary,  we  expect,  will  return  in 
the  spring.  I  shall  try  and  send  you  a  little  note  every  day. 
Write  me  at  Brazos  Santiago,  and  write  often,  commencing 
now.  Write  once  a  week,  adding  something  to  your  letters  each 
day. 

Remember  me  to  all. 

Affectionately, 

Isaac. 

Lieutenant  Stevens's  orders  were  to  take  charge  of  the 
ponton  and  engineer  trains,  then  being  loaded  on  ship- 
board in  Boston,  and  accompany  the  same  to  the  head- 
quarters of  General  Scott  in  Mexico,  touching  first  at 
Brazos  Santiago,  Texas. 

Notwithstanding  the  urgency  of  his  orders,  various  de- 
lays occurred,  and  it  was  not  until  the  19th  of  January 
that  the  vessel  sailed.  During  this  period  of  waiting  he 
had  a  visit  from  his  father,  and  one  from  Oliver,  also. 
His  cousins  Charles  and  Henry  also  came  down  from 


98  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Andover  to  bid  him  good-by.  He  spent  a  day  in  New 
Bedford,  calling  upon  his  friends  there.  Daniel  Murphy, 
having  fallen  sick,  had  to  be  sent  home. 

Boston,  Mass.,  January  13,  1847. 

My  deakest  Wife,  —  I  wrote  you  a  brief  note  yesterday, 
stating  that  I  should  not  probably  sail  for  some  days.  Having 
nothing  to  do  here,  yet  obliged  to  remain  to  be  in  readiness  to 
obey  any  new  orders,  I  shall  endeavor  to  spend  my  time  in 
some  rational  manner.  There  are  military  matters  to  be  looked 
into  and  old  friends  to  visit. 

I  hope  I  shall  hear  from  you,  before  I  leave  Boston,  and  very 
much  in  full.  I  wish  once  more  to  look  into  the  little  details  of 
your  daily  life,  before  I  commit  myself  to  the  broad  bosom  of 
the  great  waters. 

January  14.  Yesterday  I  passed  a  portion  of  the  day  in 
Cambridge ;  found  Mrs.  Breese  and  family  all  well.  The  chil- 
dren had  grown  much  since  I  last  saw  them.  Mrs.  Breese 
seemed  very  resigned,  but  she  has  evidently  teen  a  great 
mourner.  She  was  the  same  hospitable,  noble-hearted  woman 
as  of  old.  She  expects  to  get  to  Newport  about  May  ;  will  go 
to  housekeeping  in  their  old  house. 

I  saw  the  fortj^-eight  Viennese  dancers  last  evening.  It  was 
splendid.  They  are  young  girls  from  four  years  to  sixteen,  all 
handsome  and  perfectly  trained.  Everybody  goes  to  see  them. 
Last  evening  there  was  a  great  turn-out  of  the  beauty  and 
fashion  of  Boston. 

You  shall  hear  from  me  again  before  I  leave.  There  is  no 
probability  of  my  sailing  before  Saturday.  Love  to  Hazard 
and  the  babe.     Remembrances,  and 

Yours  affectionately, 

Isaac. 

Boston,  Mass.,  January  15,  1847. 
My  dearest  Wife,  —  There  is  now  every  prospect  of  my 
getting  off  to-morrow.  I  may  not  reach  the  Brazos  till  the 
middle  of  February.  Colonel  Totten  left  on  the  12th  for  Mex- 
ico, and  I  shall  without  doubt  serve  under  his  immediate  direc- 
tion. Eighteen  officers  of  engineers  are  either  in  Mexico,  or  on 
their  way  thither. 


VOYAGE  TO  MEXICO  99 

I  trust  I  shall  get  a  few  lines  from  you  to-morrow  before  I 
sail,  as  otherwise  a  month  must  pass  before  any  tidings  reach 
me.  Do  not  fail  to  write  quite  often  to  me  at  the  Brazos.  I 
shall  not  object,  you  know,  to  find  a  dozen  letters,  more  or 


To-day  I  dined  at  Mr.  Eben  Dale's,  a  nephew  of  aunt  Cum- 
mings.  Cousin  Charles  Stevens  dined  there  also.  He  designs 
going  this  evening  to  see  the  Viennese  dancers.  I  wish  you 
could  see  them.  Everybody  is  charmed.  Whole  families  go, 
children  and  all,  and  to-morrow  there  is  to  be  an  afternoon  exhi- 
bition for  the  particular  benefit  of  the  children. 
I  will  write  you  again  before  I  sail. 

Affectionately  yours, 

Isaac  Stevens. 

Boston,  Mass.,  January  19,  1847. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  It  is  now  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  I  shall  in  an  hour  take  my  departure  for  Mexico. 

We  have  a  fine  vessel  —  good  officers  and  crew  —  and  it  is  a 
charming  day. 

I  hoped  to  have  heard  from  you  before  I  left,  but  no  letter 
has  reached  me. 

God  bless  you  and  the  little  ones. 

Yours  affectionately, 

Isaac. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  It  is  now  January  27,  and  the  eighth 
day  of  our  being  at  sea.  I  wrote  you  a  brief  note  on  the 
day  I  sailed,  Tuesday,  January  19.  We  left  the  wharf  at  three 
p.  M.,  with  a  strong  westerly  wind,  which  drove  our  bark 
through  the  water  at  the  rate  of  eight  knots  per  hour.  The 
weather  was  very  cold,  but  with  my  cloak  around  me,  I  re- 
mained on  deck  several  hours.  Soon  Boston  and  its  suburbs 
vanished  in  the  distance,  and  we  were  fairly  embarked  on  our 
journey's  way.  As  I  think  it  will  interest  you,  I  will  jot  down 
the  occurrences  of  each  day  since  our  departure.  And  first  of 
all,  my  ocean  home  is  in  a  beautifully  modeled  and  fast-sailing 
bark  of  about  two  hundred  tons,  called  the  Prompt.  There  are 
twelve  souls  on  board  :  Captain  Wellman,  first  officer  Gallicer, 
second  officer  Stebbins,  six  men  before  the  mast,  one  man  act- 


100  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

ing  as  cook  and  steward,  my  servant,  a  nice  Irish  lad,  Owen 
Clarke,  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  your  humble  servant.  The 
officers  of  the  bark  are  a  fine  set  of  fellows,  and  the  crew  per- 
fectly cheerful  and  attentive  to  their  duty.  Tuesday  evening 
I  was  not  much  troubled  with  sea-sickness,  and  I  enjoyed  a 
good  night's  rest ;  but  Wednesday,  January  20,  was  a  hard 
day,  nothing  but  sea-sickness.  In  pursuance  of  the  advice  of 
Captain  Wellman,  I  remained  on  deck  as  much  of  the  time  as 
possible.  The  weather  was  somewhat  cold,  but  the  wind 
moderate.  We  drifted  along  the  greater  portion  of  the  day, 
not  faster  than  two  or  three  knots  an  hour.  After  suffering 
from  sea-sickness  till  noon,  I  went  to  my  berth.  There  is  an 
inexpressible  lassitude  accompanying  sea-sickness,  that  is  worse 
than  anything  else.  It  requires  an  effort  to  make  the  least 
exertion. 

Thursday,  January  21.  This  day  we  had  snow  all  the  time. 
I  remained  on  deck  twelve  hours,  and  towards  evening  felt 
vigorous  and  well.  The  weather  begins  to  grow  milder.  I 
begin  to  relish  food  and  to  enjoy  sea  fare.  Our  steward  has 
been  sick  ever  since  we  left  port,  and  we  are  in  consequence 
obliged  to  do  the  best  we  can  without  a  cook.  It  is  now  even- 
ing, the  breeze  freshens,  the  bark  dances  along  merrily,  and 
there  are  signs  of  a  gale  of  wind.  I  remained  up  till  eight 
o'clock,  and  then  retired  for  the  night.  As  I  awoke  from  time 
to  time,  I  could  observe  from  the  working  of  our  vessel  that  it 
went  hard  on  deck.  I  took  things  quietly  and  remained  in  my 
berth,  and  about  sunrise  of 

Friday,  January  22,  I  went  on  deck.  The  scene  was  wild 
and  exciting.  The  ocean  tossed  in  wild  confusion,  and  our 
brave  bark  riding  the  crests  of  the  waves  like  a  sea-bird.  The 
gale  had  been  a  severe  one,  and  the  captain  told  me  that  at  one 
time  he  expected  he  should  be  obliged  to  lay  to  under  bare 
poles.  We  pursued  our  way  before  the  wind,  making  nine  and 
ten  knots  per  hour. 

Saturday,  January  23.  The  sea  has  become  much  smoother 
and  the  weather  milder.  Yesterday  we  were  in  the  midst  of 
the  Gulf  Stream,  and  to-day  we  have  passed  it. 

Sunday,  January  24,  was  a  beautiful  day.  The  weather  mild 
and  lazy.     I  was  on  deck  all  day,  —  part  of  the  time  reading, 


VOYAGE  TO  MEXICO  101 

and  part  dozing  and  sleeping.  It  is  comfortable  on  deck  with- 
out a  coat.     We  are  getting  rapidly  into  southern  latitudes. 

Monday,  Tuesday,  January  25,  26.  Head  wind  and  slow 
progress.  Monday  we  saw  several  sail.  The  weather  exceed- 
ingly mild  and  soft.  I  never  enjoyed  existence  more  than  on 
these  two  days,  —  that  is,  mere  existence.  I  dreamed  away  many 
hours,  and  built  and  pulled  down  air  castles.  The  thought  of 
home  was  uppermost.  What  a  change  in  outward  things  in 
six  days.  In  Bucksport  you  wrap  your  cloaks  and  comforters 
around  you ;  at  sea  we  pull  off  our  coats.  My  health  is  per- 
fect ;  everything  like  sea-sickness  has  left  me. 

Wednesday,  January  27.  This  is  likewise  a  mild,  soft,  some- 
what damp  day.  We  make  exceedingly  slow  progress;  the 
wind  is  dead  ahead.  I  fear  we  shall  be  a  month  reaching  the 
Brazos.  Shall  I  hear  from  you  there,  and  how  many  letters 
will  await  me  ?  I  trust  I  shall  be  with  you  again  in  the  course 
of  the  summer.  I  dwell  much  on  my  probable  duties  in  Mexico. 
In  case  the  contest  should  be  of  short  duration,  I  shall  certainly 
return  in  the  course  of  the  year.  I  fear  that  you  will  take 
things  hard  in  my  absence.  When  I  reach  the  Brazos,  I  may 
be  able  to  speak  with  some  certainty  of  my  duties  in  Mexico. 

Thursday,  January  28.  Last  evening  we  had  a  rough  night. 
This  morning  the  sea  is  very  rough,  and  our  bark  is  pitching 
about  in  all  directions.  I  am  fortunate  in  having  no  return  of 
sea-sickness.  My  boy,  Owen,  is  not  so  fortunate.  I  observed 
his  head  over  the  bulwarks  a  few  moments  since  in  no  equivocal 
position.  He  is  a  nice,  willing  lad.  I  picked  him  up  in  Boston, 
the  very  day  we  sailed.  He  is  now  in  the  steward's  hands  learn- 
ing to  cook.  On  reaching  the  Brazos,  he  will  be  quite  accom- 
plished in  the  culinary  art. 

Friday,  January  29.  To-day  we  are  making  fine  progress, 
about  nine  miles  per  hour ;  shall  reach  the  Abaco  Island,  one 
of  the  Bahamas,  on  Saturday  (to-morrow  night)  at  this  rate. 
The  weather  is  charming.  I  have  most  of  the  day  read  in  my 
military  works,  sitting  on  the  deck  of  the  vessel.  The  weather 
is,  indeed,  rather  warm. 

Saturday,  January  30.  Last  night  there  was  a  change  of 
wind,  and  to-day  we  are  making  little  or  no  progress.  The  sea 
somewhat  rough.     We  shall  not  reach  the  Abaco  this  evening. 


102  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Sunday,  January  31.  Last  evening  the  wind  died  away,  and 
to-day  we  have  not  moved  one  mile  per  hour.  The  sun  has 
been  warm  ;  I  have  worn  nothing  about  my  neck  to-day.  Sev- 
eral of  the  men  are  barefoot,  and  all  of  us  are  in  our  shirt- 
sleeves. We  are  in  about  latitude  27°,  and  some  one  hundred 
miles  from  the  Bahamas.  This  calm  weather  is  very  tedious, 
but  we  must  be  patient ;  we  have  now  been  out  twelve  days. 

Monday,  February  1.  This  has  been  an  exquisite  day. 
Soon  after  dinner  our  eyes  were  rejoiced  with  the  sight  of  land, 
the  first  since  leaving  Boston,  thirteen-  days  since.  Our  bark 
glides  along  with  scarcely  any  perceptible  motion.  Towards 
night  we  approached  the  Great  Abaco,  and  about  seven  saw  the 
revolving  light  and  the  Hole  in  the  Wall,  caused,  according  to 
the  jolly  sons  of  Neptune,  by  the  Devil's  chasing  a  porpoise 
through  the  rock-bound  shore  of  the  Great  Abaco.  The  hole  is, 
indeed,  a  small  arched  opening  through  the  rocks,  admitting 
the  passage  of  a  small  boat. 

Friday,  February  2.  Another  splendid  day.  Early  in  the 
morning  we  made  the  Berry  Islands,  inhabited  by  some  fifty  or 
sixty  blacks  under  a  black  chief.  We  saw  one  of  their  boats 
returning  from  turtle-fishing.  About  seven  we  commenced 
crossing  the  Bahama  Banks  in  soundings,  nearly  all  the  way  of 
one  hundred  miles,  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  feet.  We  had  a 
clean  run,  and  went  into  deep  water  about  seven  o'clock,  running 
the  one  hundred  miles  in  about  twelve  hours.  The  evening 
was  surpassingly  lovely.  I  remained  on  deck  till  ten,  looking 
at  the  stars  and  thinking  of  home. 

Wednesday,  February  3.  This  day  has  fairly  brought  us 
into  the  Mexican  Gulf.  In  ten  days,  I  trust,  we  shall  reach  the 
Brazos.  To-day  I  have  been  overhauling  my  clothes.  My 
boy  Owen  has  mended  some  rents  in  my  garments.  He  says 
he  can  wash  like  "  fun."  The  captain  teases  him  a  good  deal 
about  the  bright  Irish  lass  he  left  in  Ann  Street.  Owen  wants 
me,  when  I  reach  Mexico,  not  only  to  buy  a  mule  for  his  use, 
but  a  little  cart  for  the  things  ;  quite  an  idea.  To-day  we  are  in 
latitude  24°  13'.  The  weather  very  warm.  I  have  found  the 
heat  quite  oppressive. 

Thursday,  February  4.  Nothing  of  consequence  has  oc- 
curred to-day.  We  are  moving  on  quickly  with  prosperous 
though  gentle  winds. 


VOYAGE  TO  MEXICO  103 

Friday,  February  5.  Everything  has  moved  on  lazily  to-day. 
We  have  seen  several  vessels. 

Saturday,  February  6.  Same  as  yesterday.  A  vessel  is  in 
sight,  apparently  bound  to  the  north.  It  is  now  nearly  three 
o'clock,  and  we  have  been  out  eighteen  days.  I  shall  seal  up 
and  send  this  letter  by  the  vessel,  if  she  prove  to  be  bound 
north,  and  I  trust  it  will  find  you  well.  We  are  now  about  five 
hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  the  Brazos.  Shall  I  hear  from 
you  there  ?  Love  to  the  children,  to  Mary ;  remembrances  to 
Mr.  Osgood,  Kidder,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Tinkham. 

The  vessel  did  not  send  her  boat,  and  no  opportunity  was 
offered  to  send  this  letter.  We  passed  directly  under  her 
stern.  She  was  a  brig  of  two  hundred  tons,  and  bound  to 
New  York.  This  letter  must  remain  on  my  hands  till  I  reach 
the  Brazos. 

Sunday,  February  7.  A  most  melancholy  event  occurred 
on  board  to-day.  As  I  was  lying  in  my  berth,  about  a  quarter 
before  twelve  o'clock,  Captain  Wellman  came  into  the  cabin, 
somewhat  agitated,  and  said  to  me,  "  Our  steward  is  not  to  be 
found."  All  hands  were  on  deck  in  a  moment,  and  a  thorough 
search  was  made  in  all  parts  of  the  ship.  The  steward  was  not 
to  be  found  anywhere.  The  appearance  of  the  galley  was  con- 
clusive as  to  his  having  thrown  himself  overboard.  He  was 
seen  at  half  past  eleven,  and  yet  little  or  no  preparation  had 
been  made  for  dinner.  He  had  been  observed  to  be  moody 
and  absent-minded  in  the  course  of  the  morning.  We  could 
assign  no  cause  for  the  act.  He  had  been  treated  well,  and  his 
duties  Were  light.  My  servant  had  assisted  him  throughout 
the  passage.  His  sudden  disappearance  whilst  four  men  were 
on  deck,  in  good  smooth  weather,  caused  us  all  to  feel  melan- 
choly. We  ate  very  little  dinner.  Our  thoughts  were  sad, 
and  we  passed  much  of  our  time  through  the  remainder  of  the 
day  in  recalling  every  little  incident  of  the  voyage  having  any 
connection  with  the  unfortunate  steward.  The  only  thing 
which  gave  any  light  was  certain  expressions  he  had  made  use 
of,  showing  a  melancholy  and  restless  spirit.  We  found  out, 
moreover,  that  he  was  suffering  very  severely  from  the  bad  dis- 
order, contracted  some  two  months  since  in  Liverpool.  This 
may  have  been  the  cause  of  his  making  way  with  himself. 


104  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Monday,  February  8.  We  none  of  us  passed  a  quiet  night, 
in  consequence  of  the  distressing  event  of  yesterday.  One  of 
the  crew  has  been  put  into  the  galley,  and  things  go  on  in  the 
accustomed  manner.  This  evening  the  effects  of  the  steward 
were  disposed  of  to  the  crew  at  auction ;  and  so  he  has  gone  to 
his  account,  and  our  bark  is  pursuing  her  destined  course. 
Our  vessel  has  gone  on  very  quietly  the  last  two  days. 

Tuesday,  February  9.  We  still  have  quiet  times,  and  are 
gradually  approaching  the  Brazos.  With  tolerable  good  luck 
we  shall  arrive  there  in  two  or  three  days.  It  is  now  evening 
and  seven  o'clock.  There  is  every  appearance  of  a  norther. 
The  captain  has  been  somewhat  anxiously  pacing  the  deck  for 
the  last  hour.  It  is  now  eight  o'clock,  and  I  will  turn  in  for 
the  night. 

Wednesday,  February  10.  A  severe  norther  came  up  about 
nine  last  evening,  and  is  now  sweeping  over  the  Gulf.  Our 
bark  works  admirably.  Occasionally  she  ships  a  sea.  But 
her  deck  for  the  most  part  is  dry.  The  weather  is  very  cold, 
and  I  have  kept  my  berth  nearly  all  day. 

Thursday,  February  11.  The  norther  did  not  commence  to 
abate  till  noon  to-day.  It  is  now  six  p.  M.  The  water  is  com- 
paratively smooth.  I  have  been  somewhat  unwell  for  two  or 
three  days,  but  hope  to  become  well  with  smoother  weather. 

Friday,  February  12.  We  had  a  quiet  night,  and  this  morn- 
ing we  have  scarcely  a  breath  of  wind.  Our  estimated  distance 
from  the  Brazos  is  about  sixty  miles.  We  shall  not  arrive  till 
to-morrow.  I  fear  I  shall  not  hear  from  you.  There  is  some, 
yes,  great  doubt,  whether  letters  to  the  army  are  forwarded  by 
mail  beyond  New  Orleans,  in  which  event  all  your  letters  to  me 
will  remain  in  the  New  Orleans  office;  nor  can  they  be  for- 
warded till  I  can  send  for  them  by  some  ship  going  there. 

Saturday,  February  13.  It  is  now  about  two  P.  M.,  and  we 
are  in  direct  view  of  the  Brazos,  which  is  some  six  miles  dis- 
tant. We  are  beating  up  against  a  head  wind,  and  there  is 
considerable  doubt  as  to  whether  we  shall  make  our  anchorage 
to-night.  The  wind  has  gradually  subsided,  and  it  is  now  nearly 
a  calm.  Unless  a  fresh  breeze  should  spring  up,  we  shall  re- 
quire another  day.     This  is  our  twenty-fifth  day. 

Sunday,  February  14,  five  P.  M.     I  have  just  reached  the 


VOYAGE  TO  MEXICO  105 

Brazos,  and  find  General  Worth,  Colonel  Totten,  Lieutenants 
Mason  and  Tower,  and  many  other  officers  here.  An  opportu- 
nity offers  to  send  this  letter.  I  will  write  again  in  a  few  days. 
I  shall  remain  at  the  Brazos  a  few  days  longer.  Remember 
me  to  Kidder  and  his  wife,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Tinkham,  Mr.  Os- 
good, and  love  of  course  to  the  children  and  Mary. 

Affectionately  yours, 

Isaac. 

Brazos  Santiago,  February  21, 1847. 

My  dearest  Margaret,  —  It  is  now  Sunday,  one  week 
since  I  landed.  Your  letter  and  Mary's  have  reached  me,  and 
I  have  had  the  inexpressible  pleasure  of  hearing  from  home. 
How  happy  it  made  me  to  hear  from  you  all !  My  little  chil- 
dren are  doing  well,  your  health  is  good,  and  you  are  passing  a 
quiet  and  comfortable  winter.  It  is  the  greatest  joy  to  me  to 
learn  all  this.  I  knew  you  Would  find  Mr.  Osgood  a  great 
addition  to  our  little  circle,  and  with  Mary  as  your  companion, 
who  has  always  sympathized  with  you  entirely,  I  did  not  antici- 
pate a  very  tiresome  winter. 

Since  reaching  here  I  have  had  little  or  nothing  to  do.  It 
was  fortunate  I  reached  the  Brazos  as  early  as  I  did.  I  saw 
and  had  some  conversation  with  Colonel  Totten.  On  Monday, 
the  day  after  my  arrival,  General  Scott  and  a  portion  of  his 
staff  departed  for  Tampico.  There  were  left  behind  four  ofh% 
cers  of  engineers,  of  General  Scott's  staff,  with  directions  to 
follow  by  the  first  opportunity.  These  officers  are  Lieutenants 
Mason,  Trapier,  Tower,  and  myself.  Mason  is  in  fine  health, 
full  of  animation  and  conversation,  and  very  popular  with  his 
brother  officers.  Tower  is  the  same  as  ever,  a  man  of  great 
native  power,  but  entirely  unobtrusive.  Trapier  is  an  officer 
you  have  never  seen,  a  man  of  fine  address  and  considerable 
ability.     We  all  like  him  very  much  indeed. 

The  general  left  in  excellent  spirits.  On  taking  leave  of 
the  engineer  officers  he  made  some  very  complimentary  remarks 
in  reference  to  the  importance  of  our  duties,  and  his  expecta- 
tions in  regard  to  us.  He  will  remain  in  Tampico  a  few  days 
and  then  proceed  to  the  Island  of  Lobos,  where  a  large  expedi- 
tion is  to  concentrate  to  land  and  attack  Vera  Cruz.     It  is 


106  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

expected  that  a  force  of  fourteen  thousand  men  will  effect  a 
landing.  General  Worth  is  in  command  of  three  thousand 
regulars  at  this  point,  most  of  whom  have  embarked.  General 
Worth  and  staff  are  still  here.  He  is  somewhat  delicate  in 
health,  but  full  of  life  and  energy.  He  is  thought  to  be  our 
great  man  to  handle  troops  on  a  battlefield. 

I  have  seen  a  good  deal  of  my  old  friend  Hunt  the  last  few 
days.  He  is  attached  to  Colonel  Duncan's  battery,  and  is  now 
in  my  room  talking  with  Mason.  He  is  a  man  I  esteem  very 
much,  and  he  is  as  worthy  of  it  as  ever.  Colonel  Duncan  has 
just  come  in.  He  is  a  noble  fellow,  not  in  the  least  elated  by 
the  enviable  position  he  occupied  in  the  army  and  before  the 
whole  country.  He  is  a  man  of  extraordinary  energy  of  char- 
acter, great  decision,  and  great  sagacity.  His  name  and  his 
battery  are  a  terror  to  the  Mexicans,  and  he  is  emphatically 
thus  far  the  great  man  of  the  young  officers.  He  is  modest, 
amiable,  mild,  as  he  is  far-sighted,  decisive,  indomitable.  He 
is  what  his  friends  knew  him  to  be  years  ago.  Mason  and  him- 
self are  great  friends. 

Captain  Saunders  of  the  engineers  is  here  on  General 
Worth's  staff,  and  will  probably  be  brevetted  for  distinguished 
services  at  Monterey. 

I  shall  probably  sail  on  Wednesday  next  for  Tampico,  and 
thence  to  the  island  of  Lobos.  Lobos  is  about  sixty  miles 
south  of  Tampico,  and  affords  an  ample  protection  against 
northers.  At  Tampico  I  shall  probably  find  General  Scott 
and  staff.  There  I  hope  to  meet  Tilden,  Carpenter,  and  other 
old  friends. 

Everything  is  in  the  greatest  confusion  here;  a  thousand 
laborers  and  teamsters  are  employed  to  manage  teams,  take 
care  of  animals  and  stores,  and  load  and  discharge  lighters. 
Ever  since  my  arrival,  there  has  been  the  greatest  hurry  in 
embarking  troops.  There  is  great  want  of  system.  Most  of  the 
men  here  in  government  employ  are  not  business  men.  Some 
of  the  quartermasters  are  inefficient.  There  are  some  good 
men.  The  best  business  man  in  the  quartermaster's  employ  is 
Lawton,  of  Newport,  brother-in-law  of  the  Turners  (Colonel 
Robert  R.  Lawton).  He  is  harbor  master,  and  in  receipt  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  month.     Everybody  speaks 


VOYAGE  TO  MEXICO   '  107 

of  him  in  the  highest  terms.  He  is  energetic,  intelligent,  and 
perfectly  temperate.  He  looks  in  admirable  condition.  He 
has  applied  for,  and  will  probably  receive,  a  captain's  commis- 
sion in  one  of  the  new  regiments.  I  have  seen  and  conversed 
with  him  here.     He  is  full  of  hope,  life,  and  energy. 

General  Butler  has  just  arrived  from  Monterey,  on  his  return 
to  the  States,  and  in  consequence  of  his  wound  not  healing. 
General  Taylor  occupies  a  position  in  advance  of  Saltillo, 
with  eighteen  field-pieces,  a  small  body  of  regular  infantry ,,  and 
some  six  thousand  volunteers. 

My  dearest  girl,  I  know  nothing  certain  of  ulterior  opera- 
tions. 

We  have  great  abundance  of  supplies  and  some  seven  thou- 
sand choice  regular  troops.  We  cannot  expect  the  same  con- 
duct from  the  volunteers  as  from  the  regulars,  but  we  hope 
they  will  gain  laurels.  I  shall  endeavor  to  do  my  duty  in 
whatever  circumstances  I  may  be  placed.  I  trust  I  shall  have 
full  strength  to  do  my  full  duty.  I  know  this  will  accord  with 
all  the  wishes  of  your  own  heart.  I  know  you  would  rather 
never  see  me  than  that  I  should  return  to  your  arms  with 
infamy  on  my  brow.  This  latter  would  be  terrible.  The 
former  can  be  borne. 

As  regards  our  dear  children,  I  wish  Hazard  to  go  to  school 
this  summer,  and  I  am  glad  he  continues  to  be  so  promising. 
Of  all  things,  I  wish  him  to  be  obedient.  Not  the  obedience  of 
fear,  but  of  love  and  confidence.  Our  little  Susan  I  know  must 
be  a  bright,  merry  child.  Would  that  I  could  witness  daily 
her  youth,  growth,  and  development ! 

".  Preserve  a  tranquil  spirit ;  let  hope  at  all  times  animate  and 
strengthen  you.  Have  courage,  have  faith  ;  we  shall  come 
together  again,  all  the  better  for  the  trials  of  separation.  I 
shall  write  a  note  to  Mary  to  accompany  this.  The  mail 
leaves  to-morrow  for  New  Orleans.  Write  often,  and  continue 
to  direct  your  letters  to  Brazos  Santiago. 

Remember  me  to  all  my  Bucksport  friends,  to  Kidder  and 
his  wife,  Osgood,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Tinkham.  Of  course  all  the 
love  in  the  world  for  Hazard  and  Sue. 

Affectionately  yours, 

Isaac. 


108  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Tampico,  Wednesday  Evening,  March  10,  1847. 

My  deakest  Wife,  —  We  left  the  Brazos  this  evening 
week,  and  shall  leave  this  place  to-morrow  morning.  Our  pas- 
sage of  only  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  thus  occupied  us  seven 
days.  We  are  somewhat  apprehensive  that  we  shall  not  reach 
Vera  Cruz  till  General  Scott  shall  have  effected  a  landing. 
Mason,  Tower,  and  three  other  officers  are  with  me.  Our  ship 
now  lies  three  miles  outside  the  bar.  Our  passage  up  the  river 
Tampico  to  this  place  (six  miles  above  the  bar)  was  a  fairy 
scene.  Beautiful  views  met  our  eyes,  and  the  picturesque 
country  about  this  place  perfectly  enchanted  us.  The  atmos- 
phere is  delightful.  We  see  few  but  Mexicans  about  us.  Every 
one  looks  friendly.  News  has  just  reached  Tampico  that  Gen- 
eral Taylor  has  had  a  hard-fought  battle  with  Santa  Anna.  All 
the  accounts  came  through  Mexican  channels.  Santa  Anna 
claims  a  victory.  He  states  that  Taylor  is  shut  up  in  Monterey. 
But  he  admits  that  he  himself  has  not  advanced.  We  infer  and 
believe  that  Santa  Anna  has  been  defeated,  and  will  soon  return 
to  San  Luis  Potosi.  I  feel  sanguine  that  a  decisive  success  on 
the  part  of  General  Scott  may  terminate  the  war.     I  hope  so. 

There  is  a  chance  to  send  this  letter  in  the  morning.  I  of 
course  write  in  haste.  You  shall  hear  from  me  again  on  my 
arrival  at  Vera  Cruz. 

Affectionately  yours, 

Isaac. 

The  landing  took  place  on  Tuesday  and  Wednesday  last 
(March  9  and  10),  and  the  investment  was  completed  on 
Thursday.  The  heavy  ordnance  is  still  on  board  ship.  The 
debarkation  is  said  to  have  been  a.  most  splendid  affair.  The 
first  division  landed  in  two  hours.  General  Worth  was  the  first 
man  to  jump  on  shore.  The  city  will  undoubtedly  fall  in  a 
few  days.  No  opposition  whatever  was  made  by  the  Mexicans 
to  the  landing.  There  was  a  little  skirmishing  during  the 
investment. 

At  the  Brazos  I  lost  my  servant  Owen.  He  found  he  could 
get  much  better  wages  than  I  had  agreed  to  give  him,  and  in 
consequence  thereof  he  deserted  me  on  the  day  I  left,  and  I 
had  not  time  to  recover  him.  I  shall  find  some  difficulty  in 
procuring  a  good  servant  here. 


VOYAGE  TO  MEXICO  109 

I  was  very  thankful  that  you  wrote  father  and  Mary.  I 
wish  you  to  keep  up  some  little  correspondence  with  them  dur- 
ing my  absence.  They  will  always  be  glad  to  hear  from  you. 
My  father  has  had  his  full  share  of  sorrow,  and  has  suffered  as 
much  as  most  men  I  know.  I  have  never  had  so  true  and  so 
disinterested  a  friend  as  he.  He.  is  absorbed  in  his  children, 
and,  though  he  expresses  little,  he  feels  much.  His  daughters 
have  left  him  one  by  one,  and  but  one  is  left.  I  feel  very  sad 
when  I  think  of  him.  I  trust  that  Mary  will  be  spared  to  him 
for  many  years. 

We  hope  to  get  on  shore  to-morrow,  but  as  a  strong  norther 
has  been  blowing  since  last  evening,  and  is  not  yet  entirely 
abated,  it  is  possible  we  may  not  land  till  Tuesday. 

I  shall  keep  this  letter  open  till  the  last  moment.  The  mail 
is  forwarded  by  vessels  sailing  to  New  Orleans,  and  is  not  very 
regular. 

Thursday  morning,  March  18.  We  reached  the  anchorage 
off  the  island  of  Sacrificios  on  Sunday,  and  did  not  get  on  shore 
till  last  evening  (Wednesday).  We  found  the  headquarters  of 
General  Scott  some  half  a  mile  from  the  place  of  landing.  On 
our  way  thither  we  met  Colonel  Totten  and  Captain  Lee  going 
out  of  camp  on  a  reconnoissance. 

The  camp  occupies  a  circuit  of  some  eight  or  ten  miles.  We 
find  every  one  in  high  spirits.  The  fact  is  considered  unques- 
tioned that  General  Taylor  has  utterly  defeated  Santa  Anna 
and  driven  him  across  the  desert.    I  meet  many  friends  in  camp. 

Sunday,  March  21.  I  have  now  been  on  shore  four  days. 
We  are  busily  employed  on  the  works  preparatory  to  opening 
our  fire  on  the  place.  Everything  is  going  on  finely.  My 
duties  interest  me  much.  The  climate  is  very  fine.  The 
colonel  and  his  officers  form  one  mess,  and  we  have  a  pleasant 
time.  Don't  believe  the  many  idle  reports  in  regard  to  losses. 
Thus  far  we  have  lost  only  one  man.  The  army  is  in  fine 
spirits. 

Love  to  every  one  of  my  friends,  my  dear  children,  and  you, 
my  dear  Margaret.  I  long  to  embrace  you.  I  shall  write 
again  by  next  mail. 

Your  affectionate 

Isaac. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

VERA  CRUZ. CERRO  GORDO 

Vera  Cruz,  an  old  Spanish  walled  town  on  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  with  a  population  of  12,000,  was  situated 
on  a  sandy  plain,  which,  extending  back  from  the  town, 
was  broken  by  many  sand-hills  and  ridges,  and  covered 
in  great  part  with  dense  chapparal.  On  the  land  side 
a  strong  line  of  masonry  works  encircled  the  city  from 
Fort  Conception  on  the  beach  above,  or  north  of,  to  Fort 
Santiago  below  it;  while  on  the  sea  side  the  castle  of  San 
Juan  de  Ulloa,  seated  on  an  island  a  thousand  yards  in 
advance  of  the  town,  commanded  all  approaches  with  128 
heavy  guns,  and  made  the  sea  front  doubly  secure. 

The  American  army  landed  unopposed  on  March  9, 
1847,  on  the  beach  a  few  miles  south  of  the  town ;  during 
the  next  four  days  extended  lines  of  investment  com- 
pletely around  the  doomed  city  on  the  land  side,  and,  hav- 
ing with  great  labor  and  some  interruption  from  northers 
landed  the  heavy  siege-guns,  mortars,  and  material  for 
the  bombardment,  commenced  the  batteries  on  the  18th, 
the  second  day  after  the  young  engineer  officers  reached 
the-  scene  of  action.  They  were  at  once  set  to  work 
reconnoitring  the  ground  and  the  enemy's  works  by  day, 
and  laying  out  the  batteries  and  superintending  the  work- 
ing parties  by  night. 

Lieutenant  Stevens  threw  himself  into  this  work  with 
even  more  than  his  accustomed  zeal.  On  one  of  his  dar- 
ing reconnoissances  the  horse  he  rode  —  a  powerful  and 
headstrong  animal  loaned  him  by  his  friend,  Lieutenant 


VERA  CRUZ  111 

Tower  —  took  the  bit  in  his  teeth  and  bolted  directly  for 
the  enemy's  lines.  Finding  it  impossible  to  stop  or  con- 
trol the  frantic  steed,  Lieutenant  Stevens,  throwing  his 
whole  strength  on  one  rein,  managed  to  make  him  swerve 
towards  the  base  of  a  sand-hill,  where  he  threw  himself 
from  the  saddle,  escaping  injury  on  the  soft  ground,  while 
the  runaway  continued  his  course  to  the  very  walls  of 
the  city. 

The  batteries  were  placed  midway  between  the  lines  of 
investment  and  the  city,  and  about  900  yards  from  the 
walls.  Lieutenant  Stevens  was  indefatigable  in  searching 
out  the  best  routes  for  the  boyaux,  or  covered  ways,  to 
enable  the  troops  to  pass  to  and  from  the  batteries  with- 
out loss  from  the  enemy's  fire.  The  broken  sand-hills 
and  dense  chapparal  rendered  this  a  difficult  and  labori- 
ous task;  and  in  forcing  his  way  through  these  thorny 
and  almost  impenetrable  thickets  his  hands  were  so  badly 
torn,  and  perhaps  poisoned,  that  for  several  days  he  was 
obliged  to  have  them  bandaged  with  poultices  of  prickly 
pear.  The  route  which  he  thus  looked  out  was  adopted, 
and  the  construction  of  the  covered  way  was  placed  under 
his  charge,  with  large  working  parties,  for  several  nights, 
until  completed.  His  experiences  are  best  told  in  his 
own  words.  The  independence,  almost  insubordination, 
of  the  new  volunteers  is  simply  the  common  experience 
with  citizen  soldiery  fresh  from  home,  but  which  they 
soon  outgrow  under  good  officers  in  a  few  months'  cam- 
paigning. 

Friday,  March  18.  At  two  a.  m.  Lieutenants  Mason, 
Stevens,  and  Tower  entered  the  trenches  and  relieved 
Captain  Lee  and  Lieutenants  Beauregard  and  McClellan. 
No  workers  or  guards  present,  save  twelve  sappers,  till 
four  o'clock.  Lieutenant  Mason  at  Battery  2.  Lieuten- 
ant Stevens  at  Battery  1.  Lieutenant  Tower  in  communi- 
cation leading  to  cemetery.   Colonel  Scott  in  command  of 


112  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  working  party.  A  company  of  the  8th  infantry,  under 
command  of  Lieutenants  Jordan  and  Pitcher,  in  Battery  1. 
About  seven  o'clock  Lieutenant  Foster  relieved  Lieuten- 
ant Tower,  who  returned  to  camp  to  supervise  construc- 
tion of  powder  magazines.  At  half  past  twelve  Lieutenant 
Stevens  ordered  to  examine  the  infantry  communication, 
reconnoitred  on  the  previous  day,  in  order  to  commence 
the  trenches  at  night  with  a  working  party. 

At  two  p.  m.  Captain  Sanders  on  the  naval  battery. 
Lieutenants  Stevens  and  Smith  on  the  right  were  oh 
duty.  The  naval  battery  laid  out  during  the  day  by 
Captain  Lee.  Lieutenant  Smith  took  particular  charge 
of  Batteries  3  and  4,  and  the  remainder  of  the  communi- 
cation to  Battery  1,  with  a  fatigue  party  under  Major 
Graham ;  Lieutenant  Stevens,  of  the  boyau  of  communi- 
cation from  camp  to  batteries  with  a  fatigue  party  of  400 
volunteers,  New  Yorkers  and  Pennsylvanians.  Did  not 
report  at  beach  till  nine  p.  m.  Arrived  on  the  ground  at 
ten  p.  M.  Two  hours  occupied  in  laying  out  the  boyau 
with  a  cord  and  getting  the  whole  force  at  work.  Whilst 
Lieutenant  Stevens  was  absent  in  discharge  of  his  duties 
of  supervision  at  the  batteries  and  trenches  under  the 
particular  charge  of  Lieutenant  Smith,  the  volunteers 
abandoned  their  work  and  returned  to  camp,  excepting 
a  small  force  of  fifty  men  on  the  left  of  the  large  sand- 
hill, in  rear  of  which  the  communication  passed. 

Saturday,  March  19.  About  dark  a  large  force  of 
400  men  reported  at  the  old  cemetery  as  a  fatigue  party 
in  the  boyau  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Stevens,  — 
four  companies  of  regulars,  Brooks  and  Shackleford,  2d 
artillery ;  Lieutenant  Ernst,  6th  infantry ;  Lieutenant 
Kodgers,  2d  dragoons,  —  the  whole  under  the  command 
of  Captain  De  Hart,  —  and  four  companies  of  volunteers, 
Pennsylvanians. 

The  regulars  employed  on  communication  from  Bat- 


VERA  CRUZ  113 

tery  1  to  Battery  2,  on  parapet  to  the  right  of  Battery  2, 
and  on  the  trench  from  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  to 
the  first  hollow  of  the  natural  trench  leading  through  the 
long  ridge  in  rear  of  the  batteries,  the  volunteers  on  the 
remaining  part  of  the  boyaux.  The  regulars  made  their 
trench  practicable.  The  volunteers  could  not  be  made 
to  work  with  the  most  strenuous  exertions  on  the  part 
of  the  officers.  Some  were  drunk  and  all  sleepy.  They 
complained  of  being  tired  and  hungry.  Some  delay  oc- 
curred throughout  the  works  in  consequence  of  a  mus- 
ketry fire  from  the  trenches.  Lieutenant  Mason  in  charge 
of  a  working  party  at  the  batteries. 

Monday,  March  22.  The  boyaux  of  communication 
made  practicable  and  safe  to-day,  although  not  sufficiently 
commodious ;  a  fatigue  party  of  200  men  reporting  to 
Lieutenant  Stevens,  and  commencing  work  at  five  a.  m.  ; 
two  companies  regulars  of  2d  artillery,  Captain  McKensie 
and  Lieutenant  Hardcastle,  Captain  Kendrick;  and  two 
of  marines,  Lieutenant  Adams. 

This  party  worked  with  extraordinary  vigor  till  three 
o'clock,  all  the  men  in  the  trenches  all  the  time,  the  offi- 
cers giving  their  whole  energy  to  supervising  the  men ; 
Captain  McKensie,  in  command  of  the  working  party,  ex- 
hibiting great  energy  and  efficiency.  The  day  was  quite 
warm,  and  an  immense  amount  of  work  done.  Lieu- 
tenant Mason  at  the  batteries  with  fatigue  party  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Swartwout. 

Tuesday,  March  23.  A  fatigue  party  of  200  men 
reported  to  Lieutenant  Stevens,  and  commenced  work 
in  the  boyaux  at  9J  a.  m.,  working  with  great  vigor  till 
dark,  all  the  men  constantly  at  work,  and  made  the  boy- 
aux very  safe  and  commodious,  —  two  companies  regu- 
lars, Captain  E.  W.  Smith  and  Lieutenant  Bissel,  5th 
infantry,  two  companies  marines. 

Note.    More  work  is  done  by  day  than  by  night  under 


114  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

fire.  The  working  parties  by  day  did  at  least  double  the 
work  per  man  of  the  working  parties  by  night.  A  severe 
sand-storm  blowing  all  day  and  night. 

Lieutenant  Stevens  reported  the  completion  of  the 
boyaux  to  the  chief  engineer  at  8^  p.  m.,  and,  after  an 
hour's  rest,  at  his  request  returned  to  the  trenches  and 
assisted  Lieutenant  Mason  till  relieved  at  four  o'clock  in 
the  morning. 

Thursday,  March  25.  Lieutenants  Mason  and  Stevens 
relieved  the  engineer  officers  on  the  right  at  four  A.  M. 
Great  exertions  were  made  at  Battery  No.  4,  which 
opened  its  fire  at  eight  a.  m.  The  fatigue  party  in  the 
trenches,  Alabama  volunteers,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Earle,  remarkably  fearless  and  effi- 
cient. One  sapper  and  two  volunteers  placed  at  each 
embrasure  to  repair  it  after  every  discharge.  By  their 
courage  and  exertions,  the  fire  of  the  battery  was  not 
obstructed  during  the  day.  Lieutenant  Mason  made 
three  reconnoissances  of  the  enemy's  works,  accompanied 
twice  by  Lieutenant  Stevens.  Two  companies  of  the  1st 
artillery  served  the  guns,  Captain  Magruder  and  Lieu- 
tenant Haskin ;  Major  L.  Whitney  in  command  of  the 
force  serving  the  batteries. 

At  eleven  a.  m.  Captain  Lee  commenced  establishing  a 
new  mortar  battery  on  the  left  of  No.  1. 

Saturday,  March  27.  A  severe  norther  raging  yester- 
day made  great  ravages  in  the  works  that  were  repaired 
to-day.  Lieutenants  Mason  and  Stevens  in  the  trenches 
at  four  A.  m.  A  new  mortar  battery  commenced  yester- 
day nearly  finished  to-day,  under  the  particular  direction 
of  Lieutenant  Stevens,  with  a  working  party  of  one  com- 
pany of  the  4th  infantry  under  the  command  of  Lieu- 
tenant Lincoln. 

Sunday,  March  28.  A  partial  survey  of  the  trenches 
made  by  Lieutenants  Beauregard,  Stevens,  and  Tower. 


VERA  CRUZ  115 

Camp  Washington  (three  miles  from  Vera  Cruz), 
March  27, 1847. 

My  deaeest  Margaret,  —  I  have  now  the  unspeakable 
satisfaction  of  telling  you  that  both  the  city  and  the  castle  have 
capitulated  after  a  bombardment  of  rather  less  than  four  days, 
and  from  the  ninth  day  of  opening  the  trenches,  and  with  a 
loss  on  our  side  of  less  than  forty  in  killed  and  wounded.  I 
will  tell  you  what  your  poor  subaltern  of  a  husband  has  had  to 
do  in  this  matter.  On  Thursday,  March  18,  I  made  a  recon- 
noissance  with  Mason  to  determine  the  position  of  a  road  for 
wagons,  and  of  a  covered  communication  for  infantry.  On 
Friday  morning,  March  19,  I  left  camp  at  two  in  the  morning, 
and  was  kept  hard  at  work  till  four  the  next  morning  in  con- 
structing a  battery  and  opening  the  communications  thereto. 
During  the  course  of  this  operation  the  enemy  hurled  at  us 
some  two  hundred  round-shot  and  shells.  None  came  very 
near  me.  I  had  to  encourage  the  men  at  their  work,  and  had 
no  time  to  attend  to  my  fears. 

Vera  Cruz,  April  3. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  It  is  now  Saturday,  and  we  have 
been  in  possession  of  the  city  one  week.  Great  destruction 
was  spread  throughout  the  city  by  our  shells.  In  the  portion 
next  to  our  batteries  a  shell  entered  every  house,  and  almost 
each  room  of  every  house,  in  consequence  of  which  many  inof- 
fensive people  were  killed.  Vera  Cruz  is  a  miserable,  dirty 
place ;  the  streets  are  full  of  filth,  and  there  are  great  numbers 
of  poor  people.  Many  families  still  keep  their  doors  closed, 
though  scarcely  an  outrage  has  been  committed  in  the  city. 
The  people,  though  miserably  poor,  are  very  courteous  and 
mild  in  their  general  deportment.  Ever  since  our  entrance 
into  the  city,  the  poor  have  been  fed  each  day  from  our  govern- 
ment stores,  and  every  exertion  is  made  to  protect  the  whole 
city  in  its  rights. 

General  Worth  is  governor  of  the  city.  The  weather  is 
rather  warm,  and  we  find  mosquitoes,  fleas,  etc.,  troublesome. 
The  city,  though  sorry  in  its  sunlight  aspect,  is  remarkably 
picturesque  by  moonlight.  The  style  of  architecture  is  of  the 
Moorish  character,  abounding  in  domes  and  highly  wrought 
work.     I  have  several  times  wandered  through  the  deserted 


116  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

streets  of  the  city  by  night,  filled  with  admiration  of  the  gor- 
geous and  Oriental  aspect  of  the  scene.  It  surpasses  anything 
I  ever  saw.     My  health  is  very  fine. 

Vera  Cruz,  April  10. 

My  deakest  Wife,  —  We  are  now  preparing  to  march 
into  the  interior,  and  shall  probably  leave  in  a  day  or  two. 
One  half  of  the  army  are  already  on  their  way.  We  hope  to 
enter  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  to  contemplate  the  wonders  of 
the  capital,  in  one  month.  In  the  reduction  of  the  city  we 
have  had  fortune  on  our  side.  The  grossest  supineness  pre- 
vailed in  the  Mexican  ranks,  though  at  times  they  awoke  from 
their  slumbers  and  poured  into  our  midst  well-directed  fires  of 
artillery.  Our  loss  is  very  little.  John  R.  Minton,  a  most 
gallant  soldier,  was  killed  on  the  first  day  of  opening  our  fires. 
He  was  universally  esteemed,  and  I  had  made  his  acquaintance 
on  the  first  day  of  landing.  He  died  for  his  country,  before 
his  country's  gratitude  for  gallant  services  at  Monterey  had 
been  communicated  in  the  shape  of  a  brevet. 

The  burden  of  the  day  came  with  great  weight  on  the  officers 
of  engineers.  It  is  the  universal  sentiment  of  the  army  that 
they  did  their  duty.  We  see  it  in  the  individual  deportment 
of  every  officer  with  whom  we  are  associated  on  duty.  We  had 
exciting  times.  Friends  whom  I  had  not  seen  since  I  left 
West  Point,  I  shook  for  the  first  time  warmly  by  the  hand 
under  the  heavy  fire  of  the  enemy's  batteries.  I  met  Haskin 
and  Callender  in  such  a  conjuncture.  There  was  not  the  least 
shrinking  from  duty,  but  each  one  stood  up  manfully  to  his 
task  and  did  his  whole  duty  ;  we  all  worked  hard.  The  engi- 
neers failed  in  no  part  of  their  duty,  and  the  consequence  was 
that  the  loss  of  human  life  was  comparatively  trifling.  I  never 
worked  so  hard  in  my  life.  It  was  our  first  experience  in  the 
field,  and  I  think  we  have  fulfilled  the  expectations  of  the 
general  and  of  our  immediate  chief  (Colonel  Totten). 

I  have  already  written  you  in  relation  to  the  city.  We 
all  long  to  leave  so  much  moonlight  magnificence  and  sun- 
light squalidity,  and  breathe  the  pure  mountain  air  of  Jalapa 
and  Perote.  Our  troops  are  yet  comparatively  healthy.  The 
sickly  season  will  not  come  upon  us  for  a  month.  Up  in  the 
mountains  it  is  the  most  salubrious  and  delightful  climate  of  the 


VERA  CRUZ  117 

New  World.  Our  troops  conduct  themselves  with  remarkable 
propriety.  Yery  few  cases  have  occurred  of  excesses  of  any 
kind,  and  all  such  are  punished  with  extreme  severity.  Mason 
is  in  fine  health,  and  is  doing,  as  was  to  be  expected,  good  ser- 
vice. All  .our  officers  are  superior  men,  and  we  stand  by  each 
other  like  a  band  of  brothers. 

I  have  secured  a  beautiful  animal  in  the  way  of  a  horse, 
docile  as  a  kitten  and  very  intelligent.  He  has  a  beautiful  eye 
and  head,  and  will  follow  me  wherever  I  go.  I  intend  to  bring 
him  home  with  me.  I  have  also  a  very  good  servant.  He  is 
an  old  soldier.  I  have  just  returned  from  a  ride  to  our  old 
camp.  There  is  a  fine  hard  beach  all  the  way,  which  reminds 
me  of  the  beach  at  Newport.  My  little  horse  is  very  fleet, 
and  carried  me  over  the  beach  in  very  rapid  style.  How 
would  Hazard  be  delighted  to  see  him  stretch  out !  You  must 
tell  my  little  Hazard  about  my  horse.  When  I  come  home  he 
shall  ride  him  every  day.  They  would  soon  be  fast  friends,  1 
doubt  not. 

Have  I  told  you  that  we  are  living  in  the  government  palace  ? 
At  first  we  took  our  meals  at  the  public  house,  but  so  much 
dirt  and  filth  was  to  be  met  with  everywhere  that  we  formed  a 
mess,  and  live  in  our  own  rooms.  Our  mess  is  now  reduced  to 
four,  Major  Smith,  Captain  Lee,  Mason,  and  myself.  There 
is  a  fine  vegetable  market  close  by,  where  we  can  provide  our- 
selves ;  and  as  for  meats,  we  have  a  barrel  of  hams.  This  morn- 
ing I  went  to  the  market  and  observed  quite  a  variety  of  tropical 
fruits  ;  tomatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  pineapples,  plantains,  lettuce, 
the  Mexican  squash,  are  in  great  abundance. 

Vera  Cruz,  April  11. 
My  dear  Father,  —  We  are  now  in  the  midst  of  our 
arrangements  to  march  into  the  interior,  two  divisions  of  the 
army  (Twiggs  and  Patterson)  having  already  marched.  The 
greatest  difficulty  is  on  account  of  transportation.  Vera  Cruz 
is  still  healthy,  and  there  is  no  natural  reason  why  it  should 
not  be  as  salubrious  as  New  Orleans.  Its  filth  and  nastiness 
is  almost  beyond  belief,  and  is  the  efficient  cause  of  its  great 
sickliness  in  summer.  Our  authorities  are  now  making  every 
exertion  to  cleanse  the  city.     Our  troops  behave  well.     Some 


118  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

few  excesses  have  been  committed,  and  these  are  punished  with 
exemplary  severity.  General  Scott  has  .  instituted  military 
commissions  to  try  a  large  class  of  offenses  that,  in  an  enemy's 
country,  cannot  be  reached  under  the  articles  of  war,  and  mar- 
tial law  has  been  proclaimed  as  a  supplemental  code.  Yester- 
day a  negro  was  hanged  outside  the  city  walls  for  committing 
rape  upon  a  Mexican  woman. 

We  hope  that  peace  will  be  established  in  the  course  of  the 
summer.  At  all  events,  General  Scott  will  find  no  difficulty  in 
entering  the  City  of  Mexico.  Our  own  troops,  regulars  and 
volunteers,  are  in  a  high  state  of  discipline,  and  pant  for  an 
opportunity  to  signalize  themselves.  The  Mexican  troops  have 
been  demoralized  by  many  successive  defeats,  and  cannot,  man 
to  man,  cope  with  our  own.  They  are  decidedly  inferior,  both 
in  the  men  and  the  organization.  In  such  cases  numbers  are  of 
little  account.  All  experience  shows  that  resolution,  courage, 
and  enterprise,  qualities  possessed  by  our  troops  in  an  eminent 
degree,  will  overcome  any  tumultuous  rabble.  I  verily  believe 
that  our  little  army  of  twelve  thousand  men  is  able  to  defeat 
any  body  of  Mexicans,  however  large. 

You  know  the  papers  have  been  full  of  the  complaints  of  the 
sappers  and  miners,  or  engineer  soldiers.  These  men  I  am 
on  duty  with  every  day.  They  are  the  pride  of  the  whole 
army,  confessedly  the  best  soldiers  in  the  army.  I  never  saw 
so  superior  a  company  of  soldiers,  Americans  all,  young  men, 
having  character,  zeal,  and  intelligence,  proud  of  their  duties 
and  of  their  position,  perfectly  subordinate,  and  cheerful  in 
their  obedience.  I  personally  know  almost  every  man  of  the 
sappers  and  miners.  During  the  investment  and  siege  of  Vera 
Cruz  they  exhibited  an  extraordinary  gallantry,  and  were  all 
placed  in  the  position  of  non-commissioned  officers.  Each 
man  had  direction  of  a  working  party,  and  in  the  execution  of 
that  duty  they  retained  their  arms  and  gave  directions  to  the 
men. 

Lieutenant  Stevens  took  great  interest  in  the  engineer 
company,  so  largely  the  result  of  his  recommendations 
and  exertions..  His  diary  of  the  march  inland  commences 
the  next  day. 


\  'Z  o  O       0  t       -'Xt 


VERA  CRUZ  119 

March  29.  The  army  made  its  entrance  into  the  city 
this  day  at  ten  o'clock,  and  the  general  headquarters 
were  established  in  the  main  plaza.  General  Worth  was 
appointed  governor  of  the  city.  The  engineer  company, 
although  it  had  preeminently  distinguished  itself  for  gal- 
lantry and  general  conduct  throughout  the  whole  opera- 
tion of  the  investment  and  siege,  had  no  place  assigned 
to  it  in  the  ceremonies  of  either  the  surrender  or  the 
entrance. 

Colonel  Totten  sailed  on  the  Princeton  to  the  States  as 
bearer  of  dispatches,  and  with  the  view  of  resuming  his 
position  at  the  head  of  the  department,  leaving  Major 
John  L.  Smith  in  command.  Lieutenant  Stevens  was  this 
day  directed  to  assume  the  duties  of  adjutant,  and  a 
sapper  was  detailed  to  assist  him. 

March  30.  Lieutenants  Stevens,  Tower,  and  Foster, 
with  a  detachment  of  twelve  sappers,  commenced  the  sur- 
vey of  the  defenses  of  the  city  and  castle.  Lieutenant 
Mason  was  temporarily  assigned  to  duty  with  General 
Quitman  on  an  expedition  to  Alvarado. 

Monday,  April  12.  The  engineers  left  Vera  Cruz 
with  the  general  staff  at  five  P.  M.,  and  reached  Vigara, 
three  miles  distant,  where  they  encamped  for  the  night. 
Here  a  little  stream  flows  into  the  sea,  over  which  is  an 
arched  bridge  of  masonry,  somewhat  out  of  repair. 

I  found  myself  exceedingly  exhausted  in  consequence 
of  my  exertions  before  leaving  the  city  in  getting  wagons 
for  the  baggage  and  train  of  the  engineer  company,  and 
in  attending  to  turning  in  the  baggage  of  the  engineer 
staff. 

Tuesday,  April  13.  We  started  early,  and  found  the 
road  as  far  as  Santa  Fe  exceedingly  sandy  and  difficult 
for  carriages.  Santa  Fe  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
prairie  affording  tolerable  pasture  for  cattle,  and  has 
the  honor  of  municipal  regulation  in  the  shape  of  an 


120  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

alcalde.  There  are  some  twenty  little  houses  of  trellis- 
work  at  this  place.  At  the  river  San  Juan,  six  miles  from 
Santa  Fe  and  twelve  from  Vigara,  over  which  is  thrown 
a  fine  bridge  of  masonry  with  a  long  causeway  at  its 
western  extremity,  we  halted  and  dined.  Before  leaving, 
Worth's  advance,  consisting  of  Duncan's  battery  and 
Lieutenant-Colonel  C.  F.  Smith's  light  companies,  reached 
the  San  Juan,  where  they  encamped  for  the  night.  Re- 
suming our  march  at  three  p.  m.,  we  pushed  forward  over 
at  times  a  somewhat  rough  and  hilly  road,  and  at  other 
points  easy  and  practicable,  till  we  reached  our  camping 
ground  for  the  night,  the  Talome  River,  having  a  one- 
arch  bridge. 

Wednesday,  April  14.  Resuming  our  march  early  in 
the  morning,  we  reached  the  National  Bridge  at  about 
ten  a.  m.,  distant  eight  miles  from  our  encampment, 
after  making  a  halt  of  an  hour  at  Paso  de  Obejas  (dis- 
tant two  and  one  half  miles  from  Talome),  where  we  met 
a  wagon  train.  There  is  a  considerable  village  at  this 
river. 

On  leaving  the  village,  the  road  winds  its  way  to  the 
top  of  a  very  high  hill,  where  there  is  an  inspiring  view 
of  the  surrounding  country.  Whilst  the  general  was 
halting  at  the  village,  I  rode  to  the  top  of  the  hill  to  take 
a  view.  At  some  distance  to  the  south  I  could  see  a 
small  band  of  rancheros  watching  the  movements  of  our 
party.  The  National  Bridge  is  a  model  of  the  kind, 
possessing  much  architectural  beauty,  and  impressing  the 
mind  of  the  beholder  that  an  iron  and  a  lofty  race  had 
done  this  work*  in  the  solitudes  of  the  mountain  pass. 
The  scenery  is  of  the  most  picturesque  and  imposing 
character.  The  road,  previous  to  reaching  the  bridge, 
winds  round  a  bold  tongue  of  land,  on  the  edge  and 
apex  of  which  a  little  fort  had  been  built.  From  the 
first  view  of  the  pass,  the  road  descends  the  side  of  a 


VERA  CRUZ  121 

steep  hill,  constructed  originally  with  great  care,  due 
attention  having  been  paid  to  both  curves  and  grades. 
On  passing  the  bridge,  on  the  left  is  a  bold  promontory, 
and  the  little  fort  and  the  open  village  at  the  other 
extremity  of  the  bridge.  On  the  right  and  downward 
side  the  river  flows  through  a  deep  ravine,  on  either  side 
of  which  perpendicular  columns  of  rock  rise  hundreds  of 
feet.  The  current  gently  flowed  over  a  rocky  bed,  and 
was  at  points  fordable.  A  thunderstorm  in  this  moun- 
tain pass,  the  swollen  stream  rushing  impetuously  to  the 
sea,  must  be  terrific.  After  halting  two  hours  at  the 
National  Bridge,  we  pushed  on  to  the  Piano  del  Rio, 
the  advance  of  the  army.  This  was  a  difficult  march  of 
thirteen  miles,  with  no  water  on  the  road  for  our  horses. 
At  some  four  miles  from  the  bridge  we  reached  a  cause- 
way, built  with  care,  and  which,  leading  over  a  little 
depression  at  its  foot,  is  conducted  almost  to  the  top  of 
a  hill  on  the  other  side.  On  our  way  we  met  parties 
from  camp  searching  the  country  for  beef. 

We  reached  the  Piano  del  Rio  at  about  five  o'clock, 
and  after  remaining  about  an  hour  with  Major  Smith  and 
Captain  Lee,  I  accompanied  Lieutenant  Tower  on  a  recon- 
noissance.  We  proceeded  on  the  Jalapa  road  some  three 
miles  and  a  half,  until  we  came  in  view  of  Battery  4  on 
the  left  of  the  road.  Then,  returning  a  short  distance,  we 
proceeded  some  distance  on  a  path  leading  from  the  road 
till  we  came  in  view  of  the  same  battery,  and  one  farther 
to  the  left,  No.  3.  From  an  examination  of  a  sketch 
of  Lieutenant  Tower,  exhibiting  the  results  of  all  the 
reconnoissances  since  the  arrival  of  General  Twiggs,  there 
could  be  little  doubt  that  the  proper  mode  of  attack  was 
to  the  right,  so  as  to  turn  the  enemy's  works  and  compel 
them  to  lay  down  their  arms.  The  reconnoissances  were 
not,  however,  complete,  and  the  general,  after  informing 
himself  of  the  position  as  far  as  it  had  been  ascertained, 


122  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

determined  that  the  reconnoissances  should  be  extended. 
I  found  a  bath  in  the  river  most  delightful  and  refresh- 
ing after  the  severe  labors  of  the  day. 

Thursday,  April  15.  The  reconnoissances  of  the  whole 
position  were  continued  to-day  ;  Captain  Lee,  with  Mason, 
Beauregard,  and  myself,  escorted  by  Major  Sumner  on 
the  right,  Tower  on  the  front.  On  reaching  the  point 
of  the  road  before  coming  in  view  of  Battery  4,  I  was 
informed  by  Bowman,  a  wagon-master  of  Twiggs's  divi- 
sion, that  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  there  was  a  prac- 
ticable trail  leading  to  the  river  some  eight  miles  above 
the  bridge,  and  where  would  probably  be  found  a  practi- 
cable ford.  After  accompanying  Captain  Lee  in  his 
reconnoissance  to  a  high  hill  about  seven  hundred  yards 
from  the  Cerro  Gordo,  the  key  of  the  enemy's  position, 
and  getting  a  full  view  of  it  and  of  the  ravines,  valleys, 
etc.,  to  the  right,  I  returned  home  with  a  guide,  and 
reported  the  statement  of  Bowman  to  Major  Smith. 
He  was  then  starting  with  an  escort  to  examine  the  ene- 
my's works  from  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  with  the 
view  of  establishing  enfilading  batteries  against  them.  I 
also  accompanied  him ;  and  after  he  had  made  his  exam- 
inations, I  requested  permission  to  continue  farther  up, 
with  a  portion  of  the  escort,  till  I  could  get  a  better  view 
of  the  enemy's  rear.  A  body  of  four  hundred  cavalry 
having  been  observed  only  about  four  miles  up  the  river 
bank,  Major  Smith  felt  constrained  to  refuse  my  request. 
On  returning  from  the  reconnoissance  I  explained  very 
fully  my  general  views  in  reference  to  the  proper  mode 
of  conducting  the  reconnoissances  of  the  position,  and 
that  though  thus  far  particular  points  had  been  carefully 
examined,  and  the  engineer  officers  had  been  very  indus- 
trious, yet  the  reconnoissances  had  been  undertaken  on 
too  limited  a  scale,  and  did  not  cover  the  whole  of  the 
position.      The   dragoons   are   admirable   for   extensive 


PLANO  DEL  RIO  123 

reconnoissances,  yet  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  deter- 
mine the  practicability  and  even  the  existence  of  certain 
routes,  on  both  the  right  and  left,  which  are  said  to  obtain ; 
that  branching  from  the  Jalapa  road,  a  little  this  side  of 
the  National  Bridge,  joined  it  again  a  short  distance  be- 
fore reaching  Jalapa.  Either  of  these  routes,  pursued  by 
Worth's  column,  would  have  effectually  turned  the  posi- 
tion of  the  Cerro  Gordo.  Moreover,  the  reconnoissance 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  had  not  been  extended  so 
as  to  get  a  view  of  the  rear  of  the  Cerro  Gordo ;  and 
from  the  circumstance  that  four  hundred  lancers  were  on 
the  right  river  bank,  and  in  position  about  four  miles 
above  the  bridge,  the  inference  was  almost  conclusive 
that  there  was  a  practicable  ford  leading  to  the  position 
in  rear  of  the  Cerro  Gordo,  and  which  the  lancers  were 
thrown  out  to  cover.  It  was  also  suggested  that  a 
spirited  reconnoissance  in  that  direction  would  settle  two 
essential  questions,  essential  to  properly  combining  the 
plan  of  attack,  —  1,  Whether  there  was  not  a  practicable 
ford,  by  means  of  which  the  enemy  could  escape,  and  at 
which  point  a  column  of  attack  might  be  directed  against 
him ;  2,  Whether  the  main  body,  or  a  considerable  por- 
tion thereof,  might  not  be  en  masse  in  rear  of  the  position 
of  the  Cerro  Gordo  hill,  and  thus  not  be  cut  off  by  the 
flank  movement  to  the  right,  unless  extended  to  a  wider 
circuit  than  was  intended.  This  reconnoissance  was 
pressed  earnestly  as  essential,  to  get  correct  information 
in  regard  to  the  intentions  and  position  of  the  enemy. 

Friday,  April  16.  The  reconnoissance  I  had  recom- 
mended was  ordered  by  General  Scott  on  the  requisition 
of  Major  Smith,  and  fifty  dragoons,  under  the  command 
of  Lieutenant  Steele,  were  placed  at  my  disposal.  With 
Bowman  as  guide,  we  started  about  half  past  eight 
o'clock,  and,  after  crossing  both  branches  of  the  river 
and  ascending  to  the  ranch  on  the  hill,  we  struck  into 


124  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

a  broad  trail,  perfectly  practicable  for  horses  and  field 
artillery,  and  after  pursuing  our  way  some  two  and  three 
quarter  miles,  came  to  a  trail  nearly  at  right  angles,  and 
which  Bowman  represented  as  six  miles  distant.  Leaving 
the  escort  here  with  Steele,  Bowman,  and  a  beef  con- 
tractor, we  continued  in  a  direct  course  nearly  a  mile  to 
some  ranches,  where  we  took  a  man  and  boy  to  get  infor- 
mation. On  our  return  we  proceeded  with  the  whole 
escort  on  the  perpendicular  trail  to  another  ranch,  about 
half  a  mile  distant,  and  finally  to  the  river  supposed  by 
Bowman  to  be  the  main  stream.  We  found  it  simply  a 
tributary  to  the  stream  flowing  under  the  first  bridge, 
and  the  descent  to  the  ravine  through  which  it  flowed 
was  scarcely  practicable  for  a  mounted  horseman.  Leav- 
ing a  small  escort  at  the  ravine,  the  main  body  return- 
ing to  the  ranch,  with  Bowman  I  pushed  forward  up  the 
other  side  of  the  ravine,  and  proceeded  about  half  a  mile, 
and  nearly  to  the  foot  of  a  spur  that  led  obliquely  to  the 
main  branch  and  in  a  direction  a  little  beyond  the  Cerro 
Gordo.  After  examining  the  routes  and  the  configura- 
tion of  the  country,  I  became  satisfied  that  the  reconnois- 
sance  could  not  be  pushed  farther  in  this  direction  to  any 
practicable  result,  but  that  the  best  course  would  be  to 
cross  the  spur  at  a  depression  and  extend  the  reconnois- 
sance  down  the  other  side  to  the  river.  On  my  return 
to  the  ranch,  whilst  proceeding  at  an  easy  pace,  I  found 
that  an  old  rupture  which  had  been  cured  fifteen  years 
had  broken  out,  and  before  I  reached  the  ranch  I  began 
to  suffer  the  most  excruciating  pain.  The  further  con- 
tinuance of  the  reconnoissance  was  abandoned,  and  I 
returned  to  camp,  a  distance  of  four  miles,  suffering  very 
great  pain.  First  Dr.  Brown  attended  me,  and  I  was 
soon  relieved  of  pain  by  applying  cold  water.  Dr.  Trip- 
ler  applied  a  very  fine  truss,  and  in  the  course  of  the 
evening  I  felt  perfectly  comfortable. 


Ford  by  which 

Santa  Anna 

escaped 


Mexican 
America  r 


BATTLE   OF   CERRO   GORDO 


CERRO  GORDO  125 

Saturday,  April  17.  This  day  I  remained  in  camp, 
able  to  move  about  only  a  little  and  with  great  care.  In 
the  movement  of  General  Twiggs  to  his  position  in  order 
of  battle,  he  was  discovered,  and  a  spirited  combat  en- 
sued, which  resulted  in  dislodging  the  enemy  from  a  hill 
seven  hundred  yards  from  the  Cerro  Gordo,  and  upon 
which  a  battery  of  one  24-pounder  and  two  26-pounder 
howitzers  was  put  in  position  during  the  night. 

Sunday,  April  18.  As  determined  on  yesterday,  the 
position  of  the  enemy  was  attacked  to-day  and,  after  a 
most  brilliant  conflict,  the  Cerro  Gordo  was  stormed  by 
the  brigade  of  Colonel  Harney,  the  enemy's  line  of 
retreat  on  the  Jalapa  cut  off  by  Shields' s  brigade  of  vol- 
unteers and  Riley's  brigade  of  regulars.  A  large  portion 
of  the  enemy  made  their  escape  on  the  Jalapa  road,  and 
across  the  river  at  the  ford  before  alluded  to.  Pillow 
made  an  attack  in  front,  but  failed  in  consequence  of  its 
being  made  prematurely,  .with  great  precipitation,  with- 
out order  in  the  assaulting  columns,  and  before  the 
supporting  columns  were  in  position,  and  at  the  wrong 
point,  viz.,  in  a  ravine  swept  by  the  fire  of  two  batter- 
ies, and  with  serious  impediments  in  the  way  of  abattis 
and  felled  trees.  This  attack,  both  as  to  time  and  as 
to  direction,  was  earnestly  remonstrated  against  by  the 
engineer  officer  directing  the  attack,  by  the  personal 
staff  of  the  general,  and  by  Colonel  Campbell,  second  in 
command.  Had  the  attack  been  made  on  the  enemy's 
extreme  right,  the  true  point  of  attack,  and  which  was 
supposed  to  be  the  point  determined  upon  by  the  general 
until  he  announced  a  different  intention  on  arriving  on 
the  ground,  it  would  have  succeeded.  It  was  fortunate 
the  attack  failed.  It  kept  the  garrisons  of  the  batteries 
in  their  places  and  increased  the  number  of  prisoners. 
Shields  behaved  most  gallantly  in  his  advance  to  the 
Jalapa  road,  and  was  severely  —  supposed  at  the  time 


126  ISAAC  INGALLS   STEVENS 

mortally  —  wounded  by  a  grapeshot  that  passed  through 
his  body.  His  advance  captured  Santa  Anna's  carriage. 
Worth's  division  was  not  engaged,  acting  simply  as  a 
reserve. 

The  storming  of  the  Cerro  Gordo  was  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  things  on  record.  Whilst  it  was  in  progress, 
four  thousand  of  the  enemy  were  put  in  motion  to  turn 
their  flanks,  but  the  Cerro  Gordo  falling  into  our  hands 
before  they  became  engaged,  they  took  ignominiously  to 
flight.  So  certain  was  Harney  that  such  would  be  the 
effect,  when  two  thousand  troops  were  reported  to  him  as 
threatening  each  flank,  he  simply  gave  the  order  to  extend 
to  the  right  and  left,  and  kept  pushing  up,  and  after  a 
sharp  conflict  drove  the  enemy  from  the  breastworks  and 
down  the  hill. 

The  retreat  of  the  enemy  was  a  perfect  rout.  A  por- 
tion in  small  bodies  retreated  on  the  Jalapa  road.  Many 
troops  fled  to  the  chapparal,  making  their  escape  through 
almost  impracticable  paths.  Santa  Anna  himself  made 
his  escape  with  a  few  attendants  across  the  river  and  at 
the  ford,  whose  existence  was  not  verified  till  after  the 
battle  in  consequence  of  the  serious  injury  that  occurred 
to  me,  preventing  my  extending  the  reconnoissance  as  I 
contemplated.  Ampudia  with  a  few  officers  retreated  on 
the  Jalapa  road,  and  very  nearly  fell  into  our  hands. 

Twiggs's  division  was  pushed  forward  hotly  in  pursuit, 
and  encamped  at  Encerro,  fourteen  miles  distant,  the 
night  of  the  battle,  and  reached  Jalapa  the  next  day. 
He  was  closely  followed  by  the  volunteer  division,  Gen- 
eral Patterson  assuming  command  of  the  whole. 

Worth  returned  to  camp  with  the  general  and  his  staff. 

I  was  on  my  back  a  portion  of  the  day,  and  was  just 
able  to  drag  about  camp. 


0.^ 


CERRO  GORDO 


Camp  near  Cerro  Gordo,  Sunday, 
April  15,  1847,  5  p.  m. 

My  deaeest  Wife,  —  I  have  glorious  news  to  tell  you. 
This  day  we  had  a  hard-fought  battle  at  this  place,  the  first 
great  mountain  pass  on  the  highway  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico. 
The  result  is  a  most  decisive  victory,  resulting  in  the  capture  of 
six  thousand  Mexicans,  and  the  loss  on  our  part  of  about  three 
hundred  killed  and  wounded.  General  Twiggs  is  now  in  hot 
pursuit  of  Santa  Anna,  who  was  present  in  command,  and  his 
remnant  of  five  or  six  thousand  men.  He  will,  we  trust,  enter 
Jalapa  to-night,  fifteen  miles  distant.  His  division  of  somewhat 
less  than  three  thousand  men  did  the  hard  work,  and  will  of 
course  have  the  highest  award  of  praise. 

As  for  your  poor  husband,  his  was  the  part  to  stay  in  camp. 
Two  days  since  I  conducted  a  reconnoissance  on  the  left  of  the 
enemy's  line  over  very  difficult  ground,  with  fifty  dragoons  to 
support  me.  I  rode  hard  through  the  morning,  and  about  three 
in  the  afternoon  an  old  rupture  in  the  groin,  which  troubled  me 
when  a  boy  from  ten  to  fourteen  years  of  age,  broke  out  again 
after  a  perfect  cure  of  fifteen  years.  So  excruciating  was  the 
pain  that  it  required  the  greatest  exertion  to  get  to  camp,  four 
miles  distant,  on  my  horse.  Fortunately  one  of  the  best  physi- 
cians in  the  army,  Dr.  Tripler,  was  able  to  attend  upon  me,  and 
most  fortunate  of  all  he  had  a  solitary  truss  of  the  best  work- 
manship, which  just  fitted  me.  Dr.  Tripler  has  prescribed  the 
utmost  quietude,  has  forbidden  all  excitement,  and  especially 
all  riding  on  horseback.  I  had  already  received  the  appoint- 
ment of  adjutant  of  engineers,  and  my  staff  duties  I  can  still 
attend  to.  All  my  friends  express  great  sympathy  for  my  misfor- 
tune. General  Scott  expressed  himself  in  terms  that  won  my 
heart.  He  remarked,  "You  engineers  are  too  daring.  You 
require  to  be  held  back.  My  young  friend,  I  almost  cried  when 
I  heard  of  your  mishap."  I  have  made  a  great  many  friends 
since  I  joined  the  army.  It  may  be  well  that  I  have  received 
this  check.  Ever  since  I  joined  the  army,  I  have  been  too 
impetuous,  too  headstrong.  I  have  made  great  physical  exer- 
tion. Now  I  am  obliged  to  rein  in  the  power  of  muscles,  in 
which  I  do  not  excell,  and  have  equal  opportunities  to  develop 
the  mental  as  before  I  became  incapacitated.  I  shall  have 
charge  of  the  train  of  the  engineers,  which  is  carried  in  quite  a 


128  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

number  of  wagons,  and  shall  therefore  be  always  able  to  ride  in 
a  wagon.  My  horse  is  one  of  the  finest  animals  in  the  army, 
and  is  a  most  fast,  easy,  and  beautiful  walker,  and  he  will  there- 
fore be  no  impediment  to  my  riding  on  horseback. 

All  my  friends  of  the  engineers  did  well.  Captain  Lee  has 
won  golden  opinions.  Mason  is  rising  rapidly  in  the  esteem  of 
all.  He  is  one  of  the  most  disinterested  as  well  as  one  of  the 
most  talented  men  in  the  army.  If  I  have  a  perfectly  devoted 
friend  in  the  whole  army,  it  is  Mason.  He  makes  no  profes- 
sions ;  he  is  always  true  to  himself  and  his  views  of  right,  but 
I  have  his  friendship  and  he  has  mine.  My  old  chum  Tower 
did  splendidly.  He  is  a  man  of  great  powers  of  mind  and  deter- 
mined energy  of  character.  He  will  probably  be  brevetted  for 
his  services  at  this  place  and  at  Vera  Cruz. 

To-morrow  the  whole  army  resumes  its  onward  march.  In 
one  day  we  shall  enter  Jalapa.  General  Scott  is  winning 
golden  opinions.  He  is  prodigiously  popular  with  the  volun- 
teers, and  the  whole  army  has  confidence  in  him.  During  the 
whole  continuance  of  the  battle  to-day  he  was  much  exposed. 

The  movement  which  resulted  in  the  great  victory  of  to-day 
was  to  the  right  and  rear  of  the  enemy,  and  the  success  of  it 
hinged  on  the  taking  of  a  little  work  on  the  top  of  an  almost 
inaccessible  hill.  The  famous  Colonel  Harney  of  the  dragoons 
led  the  forlorn  hope  in  the  attack  of  this  .position,  and  was 
closely  followed  by  the  3d  and  7th  infantry.  Up  rushed  our 
troops,  amidst  the  most  deafening  cheers  from  the  whole  line. 
Steadily  advanced  the  stars  arid  stripes  to  the  very  Mexican 
standard  floating  from  the  Mexican  work.  For  one  moment  in 
the  most  difficult  point  our  flag  disappeared ;  again  it  rose,  and 
was  immediately  planted  in  triumph  on  the  top  of  the  hill. 
In  four  weeks  we  shall  most  certainly  be  in  the  City  of  Mexico, 
unless  previously  the  Mexicans  make  overtures  of  peace. 

My  dear  wife,  do  not  feel  anxious  for  me.  I  have  the  means, 
and  shall  take  care  of  my  health.  My  hopes  of  distinction 
have  in  a  measure  vanished,  but  still  I  have  the  satisfaction  that 
I  can  be  highly  useful.  My  general  health  is  very  good.  Re- 
member me  to  Mary  and  my  dear  children,  to  Judge  Peabody, 
and  all  my  friends. 

Your  affectionate  husband, 

Isaac. 


CHAPTER  IX 

JALAPA.  —  PUEBLA 

Monday,  April  19.  This  was  a  lazy  day  in  camp,  the 
general  and  his  staff  being  occupied  with  the  charge  of 
the  prisoners,  and  preparing  the  proper  dispatches.  It 
was  determined  to  release  all  the  prisoners  and  officers 
on  parole.  Thus  2700  men  (and  200  having  escaped  the 
previous  day  whilst  coming  into  camp,  and  before  they 
had  reached  the  charge  of  General  Worth)  were  sent, 
with  rations  to  subsist  them  on  their  way  home,  to  and 
beyond  Jalapa.  La  Vega,  one  of  the  prisoners,  an- 
nounced his  intention  not  to  accept  his  parole,  but  to 
go  to  the  United  States.  The  surgeons,  moreover,  were 
most  actively  engaged  in  caring  for  the  wounded.  The 
wounds  of  the  men  generally  were  slight,  and  all  the  dis- 
abled were  cheerful  and  in  high  spirits.  The  wounds  of 
the  Mexicans  were  bad,  and  many  of  their  dead  were  shot 
in  the  head.  General  Shields,  to  the  surprise  of  all,  still 
survived,  was  in  excellent  spirits,  and  did  not  doubt  that 
he  would  get  well. 

At  half  past  one  the  general-in-chief  and  his  staff,  with 
an  escort  of  dragoons,  started  for  Jalapa,  and  passed  the 
night  at  Encerro,  the  residence  of  Santa  Anna.  Worth, 
who  marched  from  the  Piano  del  Rio  in  the  morning, 
reached  Jalapa  the  same  night.  On  the  road  I  saw  sev- 
eral dead,  disfigured  with  horrible  wounds.  I  was  obliged 
to  ride  in  a  wagon,  the  surgeon  having  forbidden  my 
riding  on  horseback.  The  country  seat  of  Santa  Anna 
is  delightfully  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rolling  country, 


130  ISAAC  INGALLS   STEVENS 

abounding  in  herds  of  cattle,  and  all  the  fruits  of  both 
tropics.  His .  house  is  of  two  stories,  the  first  being  ap- 
propriated to  kitchens,  store-rooms,  etc.,  and  the  second 
to  the  family.  Several  rooms  were  well  furnished,  and 
were  garnished  with  paintings  on  historical  subjects,  for 
the  most  part  Mexican  and  Spanish.  We  saw  several  of 
his  wooden  legs. 

Tuesday,  April  20.  The  general  and  staff  reached 
Jalapa  about  eleven  A.  m.,  after  a  most  beautiful  ride  of 
eight  miles.  Along  the  road  were  to  be  observed  the 
Mexican  troops  in  little  groups  of  two  or  three,  accom- 
panied by  their  women,  of  whom  there  were  many  at 
their  camp  at  the  Cerro  Gordo.  I  ventured  to  try  my 
horse,  and  found  for  the  time  being  less  inconvenience 
than  in  the  wagon.  The  appearance  of  the  country, 
rolling  and  green,  was  very  inviting.  As  we  approached 
the  city,  the  rear  of  Worth's  wagons  was  in  the  road,  the 
men  and  mules  almost  entirely  exhausted  by  the  long 
march  of  yesterday.  Major  Smith,  in  consequence  of 
injuries  resulting  from  riding  on  horseback,  was  obliged 
to  ride,  and  accompanied  Major  Sumner  (wounded  in  the 
conflict  of  the  17th  inst.)  in  the  carriage  of  Santa  Anna. 
On  reaching  the  city  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Cap- 
tain Lee,  Lieutenant  Beauregard,  and  Lieutenants  Smith 
and  McClellan  of  the  engineer  company,  who  were  in 
the  advance  with  Twiggs.  Quarters  were  assigned  Major 
Smith  and  myself  in  the  governor's  house,  the  head- 
quarters of  General  Scott. 

The  same  afternoon  General  Worth  was  pushed  for- 
ward in  the  advance,  Captain  Lee,  Lieutenants  Mason 
and  Tower,  and  the  engineer  company  accompanying 
him.  It  was  reported  that  La  Hoy  a  and  Perote  had 
been  abandoned,  and  that  a  body  of  three  or  four  thou- 
sand lancers  was  on  the  route  to  Puebla. 

Wednesday,  April  21.     I  was  busily  engaged  to-day 


JALAPA  131 

in  organizing  the  train  of  the  engineer  company,  the 
mules  having  proved  very  poor  on  the  route  from  Piano 
del  Rio,  and  many  of  the  animals  being  entirely  unser- 
viceable. On  requisition  from  the  senior  engineer,  the 
general  directed  that  a  train  of  eight  wagons  should  be 
furnished  by  the  quartermaster  at  Vera  Cruz  to  bring  up 
the  engineer  train  that  remained,  and  as  many  of  the 
engineer  implements  as  practicable.  Lieutenant  Foster, 
in  the  afternoon,  with  the  engineer  train  that  had  come 
up  from  the  Piano  del  Rio,  started  to  join  his  company 
at  Perote.  Sapper  Noyes  went  to  Vera  Cruz  in  the  train 
of  Friday  morning  to  point  out  to  the  quartermaster  the 
articles  that  were  needed. 

Thursday  to  Saturday,  April  22-24.  Nothing  especial 
occurred  on  these  days.  I  have  been  principally  engaged 
whilst  at  my  leisure  in  going  about  the  town,  observing 
the  people  and  their  customs. 

Sunday,  April  25.  This  day  I  attended  high  mass  in 
the  cathedral.  The  church  was  decorated  considerably, 
though  with  little  taste.  There  were  several  figures  of 
the  Virgin  Mary.  The  people  seemed  attentive  to  the 
various  ceremonies,  and  were  scrupulous  in  observing  the 
prescribed  forms.  Not  many  of  the  higher  classes  were 
present.  Some  few  elegant  and  well-dressed  ladies  were 
to  be  seen. 

Monday  to  Thursday,  April  26-29.  During  these  days 
I  have  been  collecting  facts  in  relation  to  the  battle  of 
Cerro  Gordox  with  the  view  of  making  a  general  map  and 
digesting  a  connected  military  narrative.  In  conse- 
quence of  all  the  officers,  except  Lieutenant  Beauregard 
and  myself,  having  gone  to  Perote,  there  were  no  means 
of  making  an  accurate  survey  of  the  positions,  or  of  get- 
ting sketches  of  the  various  reconnoissances,  to  form  a 
general  plan.  The  only  sketch  forwarded  from  Perote 
was  one  by  Lieutenant  Tower.     I  have  met  during  these 


132  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

days  several  old  friends,  particularly  Tilden  and  Haskin. 
Canby  I  have  seen  much  of. 

April  30.  This  day  I  was  busily  occupied  in  prepar- 
ing a  memoir  on  the  proper  mode  of  conducting  the  war, 
in  case  Mexico  shall  pursue  the  guerrilla  system,  and 
obstinately  refuse  to  listen  to  terms  of  accommodation. 
I  find  great  difficulty  in  procuring  information  as  to 
routes,  etc.  The  weather  in  Jalapa  is  delightful.  For 
the  past  four  days  copious  showers  towards  evening  have 
exercised  the  most  healthful  and  invigorating  influence 
upon  the  troops  here.  Since  the  arrival  of  headquarters 
on  Tuesday,  April  20,  there  has  been  a  remarkable  equa- 
bleness of  temperature.  Jalapa  is  the  very  Eden  of 
Mexico,  and  its  picturesque  situation  in  the  very  bosom 
of  the  mountains  is  nowhere  surpassed.  Such  is  the  per- 
fect amenity  and  smiling  aspect  of  nature  at  this  favored 
spot,  that  all  the  seasons  of  the  year  meet  together.  All 
the  days  of  the  year  are  both  seedtime  and  harvest.  The 
place  is  singularly  beautiful  in  its  perennial  bloom,  and 
in  the  flowers  and  gardens  of  its  people.  They  seem 
to  be  a  happy,  easy  race,  and  many  of  the  people  are  of 
refinement  and  intelligence. 

There  are  indications  in  the  suburbs  of  Jalapa  of  more 
populousness  and  wealth  than  now  obtain,  as  in  the  wells 
of  masonry  to  be  seen,  fifty  feet  and  more  in  depth,  etc. 
The  snowy  peak  of  Orizaba,  fifteen  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea,  is  to  be  seen  far  above  the  clouds,  which  at  times 
hang  over  its  base. 

Jalapa,  Thursday,  April  22, 1847. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  We  entered  this  beautiful  city,  fra- 
grant with  flowers  and  shrubbery,  at  eleven  o'clock  Tuesday 
morning.  Jalapa  and  the  surrounding  country  is  the  Eden  of 
Mexico.  For  many  miles  the  country  is  in  the  highest  state  of 
cultivation.  There  is  a  perennial  bloom.  At  this  very  moment 
all  the  fruits  and  every  species  of  vegetation  are  to  be  seen  in 
all  their  stages.     On  the  same  tree  are  seen  blossoms  and  fruit. 


JALAPA  133 

In  the  same  field  we  observe  grain  and  corn  just  springing 
from  the  seed,  and  we  see  it  ready  for  the  sickle.  The  market 
abounds  in  oranges,  bananas,  peppers,  lettuce,  cabbages,  cauli- 
flower, onions,  lemons,  peas  (green),  beans,  tomatoes,  etc.  The 
refinement  and  cultivation  of  the  people  are  to  be  seen  in  their 
taste  for  flowers.  At  all  points  the  most  beautiful  flowers 
strike  your  eye.  All  the  houses  of  the  lower  classes,  as  well  as 
of  the  higher,  have  gardens  of  flowers  in  rear.  As  you  pass 
through  the  street  you  every  moment  get  glimpses  of  fountains 
and  shrubbery.  Jalapa  is  more  than  Capua  of  old.  It  is 
Capua  with  all  its  beauty  and  serenity,  but  without  its  abandon. 
The  people  are  refined,  courteous,  intelligent,  and  upright. 
Here  we  shall  remain  for  some  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  to  organ- 
ize the  campaign,  and  prepare  for  the  march  to  Mexico.  Jalapa 
will  be  the  great  base  of  operations. 

We  left  the  Piano  del  Rio  on  Monday.  I  rode  on  a  wagon, 
and  reached  Encerro,  the  hacienda  of  Santa  Anna,  a  distance 
of  fourteen  miles,  the  same  evening.  The  general  and  his  staff 
passed  the  night  here.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  com- 
manding hill,  with  ample  outbuildings,  an  artificial  pond  for 
bathing,  etc.,  and  a  paved  road  branching  from  the  main 
Jalapa  road.  The  hacienda  of  two  stories  was  elegantly  fur- 
nished on  the  second  floor,  the  first  floor  being  appropriated  to 
kitchens,  store-rooms,  etc.  We  saw  several  of  Santa  Anna's 
wooden  legs.  General  Scott  gave  us  in  the  evening  a  nice 
supper  with  wine. 

I  rode  on  Tuesday  from  Encerro  to  Jalapa  on  my  horse,  and 
found  it  about  as  comfortable  as  a  wagon.  The  distance  was 
about  eight  miles.  The  morning  was  beautiful  and  the  scenery 
enchanting.  On  reaching  the  city  we  found  some  seven  or 
eight  thousand  of  our  troops  under  arms.  For  the  first  time 
since  Cortez  the  hostile  feet  of  a  foreign  race  trod  its  pave- 
ments. The  most  perfect  tranquillity  prevailed.  The  people 
are  well  treated,  receive  good  prices  for  all  they  wish  to  sell, 
and  do  not  feel  the  weight  of  a  foreign  yoke. 

Last  evening  we  received  intelligence  that  General  Taylor 
entered  the  city  of  San  Luis  Potosi  on  the  13th  of  this  month. 
Well  done,  indomitable  old  hero  !  It  is  somewhat  doubtful 
whether  I  shall  go  on  with  the  army.     The  surgeon  advises  me 


134  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

to  remain  here  for  the  present.     With  care  he  thinks  I  may 
rely  on  a  permanent  cure.     Care,  however,  is  required. 

Jalapa,  May  1,  1847. 

My  deakest  Wife,  —  I  am  glad  to  be  able  to  assure  you 
that  my  health  is  improving.  It  is  not  yet  safe  for  me  to  ride 
my  horse,  and  I  think  that  my  ride  from  Encerro,  the  country 
seat  of  Santa  Anna,  to  Jalapa  put  me  back  some  days.  I  can 
walk  without  any  inconvenience  by  being  careful  as  to  my  gait, 
and  avoiding  all  sudden  steps.  I  am  not  in  the  least  incapaci- 
tated for  office  duty,  and  am,  excepting  my  injury,  in  very  vig- 
orous health.  It  is  hard,  I  assure  you,  in  this  beautiful  region 
to  be  detained  from  enjoying  my  fine  horse.  As  it  is,  he  stands 
in  the  stable  doing  nothing.  On  Monday,  May  3,  I  shall  move 
on  with  General  Patterson's  advance,  in  charge  of  the  engineer 
train,  to  join  the  engineer  corps  with  Worth. 

The  brilliant  conflict  of  Cerro  Gordo  came  upon  the  Mexi- 
cans like  a  thunderbolt,  and  is  the  most  decisive  blow  of  the 
war.  The  road  is  free  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  I  have  no 
doubt  General  Scott  will  be  there  in  six  weeks.  It  is  said  the 
Mexicans  will  resort  to  the  guerrilla  mode  of  warfare.  It  will 
,be  found  worse  than  useless.  It  will  be  found  of  assistance  to 
our  arms.  General  Scott  will  enforce  the  strictest  discipline, 
and  the  people  of  the  country  will  remain  undisturbed  in  their 
houses.  A  fair  price  will  be  paid  for  everything  that  is  con- 
sumed. The  war  will  be  made  to  bear  with  a  heavy  hand  upon 
all  connected  with  the  government,  and  upon  the  property  of  all 
disaffected  persons.  Don't  feel  alarmed  about  the  observation 
in  the  papers  in  reference  to  the  terrible  and  atrocious  char- 
acter of  guerrilla  warfare.  No  one  here  feels  the  least  alarm. 
Twelve  resolute  men  can  disperse  a  hundred  rancheros.  As 
guerrilla  troops  our  volunteers  are  infinitely  superior  to  the 
Mexicans.  The  Mexicans  as  guerrilla  troops  are  poor.  They 
are  generally  very  inferior  troops.  They  are  best  behind  breast- 
works, yet  our  men  find  no  difficulty  in  storming  them. 

You  may  be  sure  that  this  city  is  a  most  charming  place. 
We  do  not  find  the  upper  classes  disposed  to  associate  with  us. 
Jalapa  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  exclusive  places  in  Mexico, 
the  society  being  broken  up  into  cliques,  and  families  living 
among  themselves  as  in  New  Bedford.     The  upper  classes  are 


JALAPA         .  135 

indeed  said  to  be  very  hostile  to  us.  We  are  now  about  build- 
ing a  battery  to  overawe  the  city,  where  a  ten-inch  mortar  will 
be  mounted.  The  terrible  destruction  at  Vera  Cruz  from  our 
shells  has  been  spread  over  all  Mexico,  and  with  all  the  exag- 
geration of  the  Spanish  character.  All  the  cities  have  the 
greatest  fear  of  our  shells. 

The  last  few  days  I  have  been  busily  occupied  in  preparing  a 
narrative  of  the  brilliant  conflict  of  the  Cerro  Gordo,  illustrated 
with  a  sketch,  and  for  the  Engineer  Department  at  Washing- 
ton, and  also  in  writing  a  memoir  on  the  best  mode  of  opposing 
the  guerrilla  warfare.  The  latter  I  have  done  chiefly  for  my 
own  instruction.  It  is  possible,  if  I  can  finish  it  to  my  mind,  I 
may  have  it  published.  I  have  some  thoughts  of  sending  it  to 
General  Scott  at  once.  The  general,  however,  is  a  very  great 
talker  and  writer  himself,  and  I  doubt  whether  he  could  find 
time  to  read  the  memoir. 

Sunday,  May  2.  The  train  does  not  go  till  to-morrow,  so  I 
can  tell  you  something  of  the  occurrences  of  this  day.  Sunday 
is  the  great  market  day  of  Jalapa,  and  this  morning  I  saw  the 
greatest  profusion  of  vegetables,  watermelons  in  abundance,  the 
finest  oranges,  bananas,  plantains,  cauliflower,  cabbage,  lettuce, 
celery,  beans,  peas,  squashes,  pumpkins,  sweet  potatoes,  Irish 
potatoes,  green  corn,  rare-ripe  onions,  tomatoes.  The  onions 
are  the  finest  I  ever  saw.  They  are  far  superior  to  our  own. 
Many  well-dressed  ladies  were  to  be  seen  in  the  market  with 
their  servants.  I  went  to  the  cathedral,  but  remained  only  a 
short  time. 

I  consulted  to-day  Dr.  Wright,  the  hospital  surgeon  of  Ja- 
lapa, in  reference  to  my  difficulty,  and  he  speaks  in  the  most 
encouraging  manner.  He  says  there  is  no  objection  to  my  rid- 
ing a  portion  of  the  distance  on  horseback,  and  that  with  care 
there  is  not  the  least  danger  in  advancing  with  the  army. 

May  3.  In  the  expectation  that  the  march  would  take 
place  to-morrow,  I  was  busily  engaged  preparing  for  my 
departure.  The  sappers  remaining  in  this  place  made 
all  their  arrangements,  and  the  engineer  train  of  eight 
wagons  was  put  in  perfect  order,  a  wagon  master  and  two 
extra  men  having  been  provided  for.     General  Patter- 


136  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

son's  advance  brigade,  that  would  serve  as  our  escort,  was 
the  brigade  of  Quitman.  In  the  evening,  about  eight 
o'clock,  an  express  came  up  from  Vera  Cruz. 

May  4.  I  rose  early,  having  decided  to  start  at  half 
past  six  o'clock.  Some  delays  occurred,  and  when  in. 
readiness  to  start,  at  half  past  seven,  I  was  informed  that 
the  order  to  march  had  been  countermanded.  Conse- 
quently everything  was  put  back  in  its  place. 

About  eleven  a.  m.  Carigan,  a  sick  sapper,  died  at  the 
hospital.  He  had  been  sick  almost  from  the  first  day  he 
came  into  the  country.  His  case  was  not  considered  incu- 
rable at  Vera  Cruz,  but  the  journey  to  Jalapa,  riding  in 
a  wagon  over  a  rough  road,  proved  too  much  for  his 
strength.  He  was  buried  in  the  afternoon  in  a  convent 
churchyard,  his  remains  having  been  accompanied  by  my- 
self and  five  sappers.  When  his  body  was  lowered  into  its 
final  resting-place,  I  made  a  few  remarks  on  the  peculiar 
circumstances  of  his  case,  dwelling  upon  the  fact  that  his 
short  service  had  not  been  in  vain,  and  that  he  had  served 
his  country,  and  as  much  died  for  his  country  as  though 
he  had  fallen  at  Vera  Cruz  or  at  Cerro  Gordo.  Sergeant 
Clark  and  A.  M.  Noyes,  on  my  calling  on  them,  made  a 
few  very  appropriate  remarks  in  reference  to  his  case, 
and  bore  cheerful  testimony  to  his  excellent  character 
and  the  esteem  in  which  he  was  held  by  his  associates. 
Regan,  a  sapper  who  had  enlisted  with  him,  and  who  had 
known  him  for  a  long  time,  was  a  most  sincere  mourner. 
He  seemed  to  reproach  himself  as  the  cause  of  Carigan's 
death,  in  consequence  of  his  own  example  having  been 
the  cause  of  Carigan's  enlistment.  I  stated  to  Regan 
that  he  had  no  cause  to  reproach  himself,  and  that  in 
writing  to  Carigan's  friends  he  could  dwell  upon  the  cir- 
cumstances of  Carigan's  having  received  every  attention, 
and  finally  having  been  buried  in  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful regions  of  the  earth,  and  in  ground  consecrated  by 
the  religious  solemnities  of  his  faith. 


JALAPA  137 

May  5.  There  are  reports  that  Santa  Anna  intends 
cutting  off  the  large  train  coming  from  Vera  Cruz  in  a 
few  days,  in  consequence  of  which  Captain  Bainbridge 
with  a  battalion  of  infantry  proceeded  downward  yester- 
day, to  be  followed  by  Colonel  Riley  and  a  portion  of 
his  brigade  to-morrow,  the  whole  to  take  a  position  at 
the  National  Bridge.  I  now  hold  myself  in  readiness  to 
move  forward  at  any  moment.  But  in  the  present  aspect 
of  affairs,  three  regiments  of  volunteers  returning  home, 
much  sickness  amongst  the  troops,  and  no  certainty  as  to 
the  arrival  of  new  levies,  it  is  not  certain  that  it  will  be 
possible  to  move  beyond  Puebla. 

May  7.  Left  Jalapa  this  morning  at  7.30  in  charge 
of  the  second  section  of  the  engineer  train,  to  join  the 
advance  of  General  Worth,  and  under  the  escort  of  Gen- 
eral Quitman's  brigade,  to  whom  I  reported  on  my  arrival 
at  his  encampment.  He  did  not  get  under  way  till 
towards  noon,  and,  after  marching  two  hours  through  a 
cultivated  and  beautiful  country,  we  reached  the  village 
of  El  Soldado,  about  eight  miles  from  Jalapa.  After 
halting  an  hour  at  this  place  the  command  pursued  its 
march  through  a  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  country, 
presenting  at  the  different  points  a  varied  view  of  the 
valley,  dotted  all  over  with  villages,  and  with  fields  of 
corn  and  barley,  and  parties  of  laborers  by  the  roadside 
peacefully  pursuing  the  cultivation  of  the  soil.  At  La 
Hoy  a,  defended  with  some  care  at  a  pass  between  two 
high  hills,  with  a  succession  of  barriers  in  the  road,  two 
arranged  with  a  single  embrasure  for  guns,  was  to  be 
seen  the  apple-tree  in  blossom,  and  also  the  pine-tree. 
We  halted  at  Las  Vegas  for  the  night,  the  road  hither 
ascending  all  the  way,  and  the  character  of  the  trees 
rapidly  changing  to  the  fir,  the  black  birch,  and  the  moun- 
tain oak.  Las  Vegas  is  a  somewhat  straggling  village  of 
perhaps  about  two  thousand  people,  situated  in  a  depres- 


138  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

sion  or  valley  in  the  hills,  which  to  the  northeast  expand 
into  a  most  fertile  and  agreeable  plain,  highly  cultivated 
along  the  west  side.  Most  inviting  fields  of  barley  and 
corn  had  remained  untouched,  though  the  horses  of  our 
troops  had  subsisted  on  the  former.  Jalapa  to  El  Soldado, 
seven  miles ;  to  La  Hoya,  three  miles  (large) ;  to  tank 
on  left,  nine  miles ;  to  Las  Vegas,  three  miles ;  Jalapa  to 
Las  Vegas,  twenty-two  miles. 

May  8.  Left  Las  Vegas  about  eight  a.  m.  and  reached 
Perote  about  twelve  m.,  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  or  about. 
This  route  for  the  first  three  miles  is  quite  rough  and 
uneven.  At  the  end  of  the  third  mile  is  a  very  long  and 
difficult  descent,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a  beautiful  stream 
of  ice-cold  water,  flowing  directly  from  the  Coffre  de 
Perote.  Here  the  whole  command  were  refreshed.  After 
ascending  a  considerable  hill  we  again,  after  a  gentle 
descent,  gained  a  little  village  at  another,  quite  sluggish 
stream  about  a  mile  from  the  Rio  Frio.  A  slight  ascent 
brought  us  to  the  extended  plain  of  Perote,  ten  or  twelve 
miles  in  width  and  extending  generally  in  a  westerly 
direction  as  far  as  El  Pinal.  Perote,  with  its  castle  in 
the  middle  of  the  plain  and  towards  its  eastern  extremity, 
was  almost  depopulated,  and  presented  a  very  uninviting 
appearance.  General  Worth  had  collected  here  large 
stores  of  forage  and  flour,  much  rice,  and  some  sugar 
and  coffee.  On  reporting  to  General  Worth,  and  stating 
my  object  (to  join  Captain  Lee),  I  was  directed  to  attach 
myself  to  Colonel  Clarke's  brigade,  the  last  battalion  of 
which  was  to  march  at  seven  a.  m.  on  the  9th.  I  found 
Mason  quite  sick,  and  doubtful  as  to  his  ability  to  move 
on.  Though  somewhat  fatigued  with  my  day's  march, 
I  suffered  no  inconvenience  from  my  rupture,  though 
the  entire  distance  from  Jalapa  was  made  on  horseback. 

May  9.  I  left  Perote  this  morning  with  Colonel  Clarke 
at  seven  a.  m.,  and  arrived  at  San  Antonio,  a  distance 


MARCH  TO  PUEBLA  139 

of  seven  miles,  about  eleven.  A  slight  halt  was  made 
three  miles  from  Perote.  At  one  o'clock,  after  resting 
the  mules,  I  proceeded  with  the  train  to  Tepe  Ahualco, 
which  I  reached  after  a  distance  of  nine  miles.  Here 
I  found  the  engineer  company,  and  Captain  Lee  and 
Lieutenant  Tower  of  the  engineers.  Captain  Lee,  un- 
fortunately, was  suffering  from  chills  and  fever. 

May  10.  The  brigade  of  Colonel  Garland,  with  General 
Worth  and  staff,  left  Tepe  Ahualco  (a  very  mean  village, 
with  bad  water)  at  eight  o'clock,  and  after  a  march  of  ten 
miles  through  the  plain  reached  the  hacienda  of  Vireyes, 
where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  This  hacienda,  like 
most  of  the  haciendas  of  the  country,  was  a  good  substan- 
tial building  on  the  four  sides  of  a  square,  and  arranged 
with  reference  to  the  defense  of  the  interior  space.  The 
peons  lived  in  mean  habitations  of  mud  and  trellis- work, 
not  equal  to  the  dwellings  of  swine  in  New  England. 

May  11.  The  march  commenced  at  seven  a.  m.,  and 
after  two  halts,  —  one  of  about  half  an  hour  at  Byzan- 
tium, distant  eight  miles,  a  village  having  its  cathedral, 
one  or  two  stores  with  pulque  for  sale,  and  pretty  good 
houses  for  the  peons ;  one  of  about  two  hours  at  Ojo 
de  Agua,  distant  ten  miles,  a  village  not  so  considerable 
as  the  former,  but  noted  for  its  clear  water  gushing  in 
quite  a  large  stream  from  the  roadside,  —  we  reached  the 
hacienda  Santa  Annaced  as  a  violent  windstorm  came  on. 
Large  stacks  of  barley  straw  in  front  of  the  hacienda 
afforded  sustenance  for  many  domestic  animals.  As  we 
approached  the  village  of  Byzantium,  a  gently  ascending 
and  somewhat  considerable  hill  on  the  left,  cultivated  to 
its  very  top  with  the  maguey  plant,  and  the  green  grass 
of  the  flowing  stream  at  the  base  relieved  the  dryness 
of  the  plain,  and  afforded  a  most  pleasing  prospect.  The 
road  on  the  10th  and  11th  was  level,  and  for  the  most 
part  good.     Distance  this  day,  about  twelve  miles. 


140  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

May  12.  The  march  commenced  at  six  A.  m.,  the  rear 
brigade  of  Colonel  Clarke  joining  the  advance  brigade  of 
Colonel  Garland  in  its  first  movement,  its  encampment 
having  been  only  two  miles  in  rear.  After  proceeding 
some  miles  we  entered  Nopalucan,  a  considerable  town 
of  three  churches,  several  fondas,  and  some  substantial 
houses.  The  padre  furnished  the  general  and  his  officers 
an  entertainment  of  spirits  and  cakes.  The  best  people 
had  shut  up  their  houses  and  left  the  place.  Before 
approaching  Nopalucan,  the  road  for  some  two  miles 
passes  through  a  highly  cultivated  tract  of  country,  with 
some  dozen  haciendas  on  the  right  and  left.  An  eleva- 
tion on  entering  this  tract  affords  a  very  charming 
prospect. 

After  remaining  two  hours  at  Nopalucan  the  division 
moved  forward,  over  in  some  portions  a  rough  road,  and 
encamped  for  the  night  one  league  this  side  of  the  Pass 
of  El  Pinal. 

May  13.  At  Nopalucan  information  was  given  that 
Santa  Anna,  with  some  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand 
lancers,  had  passed  through  that  place  on  the  10th  for 
Puebla,  and  at  the  camp  of  the  12th  and  13th  there  were 
rumors  that  he  had  prepared  mines  in  the  road  at  El 
Pinal.  In  consequence  the  engineer  company,  Duncan's 
battery,  and  some  other  troops  moved  early  to  examine 
the  pass.  A  false  alarm  during  the  night  left  many  of 
the  troops  much  harassed.  El  Pinal  is  no  pass  what- 
ever, and  the  mines,  of  which  rumor  was  so  big,  were 
little  excavations  commenced  under  the  road  in  two 
places,  but  abandoned.  El  Pinal  derives  its  name  from 
the  pine-trees,  which  are  found  to  the  very  top  of  the 
mountains.  At  this  point  the  road  commences  a  rapid 
descent,  and  soon  brings  us  to  Acajete,  a  smaller  place 
than  Nopalucan,  yet  having  its  church  and  its  fonda. 
Here  the   alcalde  provided  a  collation  for  the  general 


MARCH  TO  PUEBLA  141 

and  his  officers.  After  halting  an  hour  and  a  half,  we 
moved  forward,  and  reached  Amasoque  about  two  o'clock. 
This  is  a  village  having  a  large  public  square  and  three 
fine  churches.  It  is  larger  than  Nopaluean,  and  must 
contain  nearly  four  thousand  inhabitants. 

It  was  determined  to  remain  at  Amasoque  one  entire 
day  to  enable  General  Quitman's  command  to  come  up, 
and  accordingly  General  Worth's  division  was  in  expec- 
tation of  a  day's  rest,  but  about  nine  o'clock, 

May  14,  word  was  brought  that  five  thousand  lan- 
cers were  marching  down  upon  us.  A  reconnoissance 
by  Captain  Lee  reduced  the  numbers  to  less  than  two 
thousand,  and  the  movement  seemed  to  look  to  the  cut- 
ting of  our  communication  with  Quitman's  column.  It 
was  so  illy  concerted  that  seventy  shots  from  Duncan's 
battery  and  a  few  from  Steptoe's  turned  the  enemy  from 
their  apparent  purpose,  and  caused  them  to  turn  to  their 
left  and  make  good  their  retreat.  A  column  of  about 
six  hundred,  however,  continued  their  course,  veering  a 
little  to  the  left  to  keep  out  of  the  reach  of  Quitman, 
who,  on  hearing  our  guns,  hastened  the  march  of  his 
troops,  and  effected  a  junction  with  Worth  with  great 
celerity.  This  column  was  followed  by  myself,  Lieu- 
tenant McClellan,  and  three  dragoons  as  far  as  the  haci- 
enda San  Miguel,  some  five  miles  from  Amasoque.  On 
the  way  thither  we  crossed  a  very  deep  arroyo,  along  a 
very  good  though  very  steep  mule-path.  At  the  haci- 
enda, having  ascertained  from  the  people  and  from  their 
trail  that  the  column  had  continued  their  eccentric  course, 
we  returned  in  a  somewhat  different  direction,  and  hav- 
ing crossed  an  arroyo  by  an  almost  impracticable  path, 
and  fallen  on  and  nearly  captured  a  Mexican  officer  and 
his  servant,  we  came  to  where  the  arroyos  met,  and  were 
obliged  to  retrace  our  steps.  We  reached  headquarters 
about  three  o'clock.     I  was  exceedingly  exhausted  by  my 


142  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

exertions.  Lieutenant  McClellan  was  very  gallant  and 
prompt  in  pursuing  the  Mexican,  and  lost  him  in  conse- 
quence of  the  chapparal.  A  pony  that  was  led  by  the 
servant  was  given  to  the  men. 

Note.  The  occurrences  of  this  day  show  two  things  : 
1st.  Troops  should  be  quartered  or  encamped  in  reference 
to  the  attack  of  an  enemy,  and  the  site  should  always 
be  determined  by  officers  of  engineers. 

2d.  On  the  arrival  of  troops  at  the  place  of  encamp- 
ment, an  examination  should  be  made  to  determine  the 
principal  circumstances  in  reference  to  the  roads  and  the 
general  features  of  the  topography  of  the  country,  so 
that,  in  case  of  an  attack  or  demonstration,  we  should 
have  the  necessary  information  to  strike  a  vigorous  blow 
at  the  enemy,  and  push  him  into  a  precipitate  retreat. 
At  Amasoque  nothing  was  known  in  the  morning  in 
reference  to  the  roads  of  the  village  itself  leading  to  the 
direction  where  the  enemy  was  known  to  be,  until  the 
reconnoissance  was  made  after  the  presence  of  the  enemy 
was  reported.  Still  less  was  anything  known  in  regard 
to  the  existence  of  the  arroyos,  which  cut  up  the  surface 
of  the  plain,  and  rendered  it  entirely  impracticable  for 
cavalry  and  artillery  to  operate,  till  the  crossings  (used 
by  the  people  of  the  country  and  known  by  their  troops) 
were  carefully  ascertained.  During  the  whole  march  from 
Tepe  Ahualco,  these  things  had  been  entirely  neglected. 

Captain  Lee  and  Lieutenant  Tower  made  a  reconnois- 
sance of  the  country  towards  Puebla,  and  discovered  that 
the  main  body  of  the  enemy  had  retrograded  to  a  village 
some  eight  miles  from  and  off  the  main  road  to  Puebla. 
Colonel  Garland's  brigade  was  pushed  forward  about  two 
miles  and  bivouacked  for  the  night.  The  troops  were 
ordered  to  march,  first  at  nine  p.  m.,  then  at  three  A.  m., 
and  finally  at  five  a.  m.,  in  order  to  concentrate  near 
Puebla  in  the  course  of  the  morning.     In  consequence  of 


PUEBLA  143 

these  continual  changes,  the  troops  were  exceedingly  and 
needlessly  harassed. 

May  15.  The  army  moved  at  five  a.  m.,  and  at  a 
village  three  miles  from  Amasoque,  commissioners  were 
found  in  waiting  to  treat  for  the  occupation  of  the  city. 
The  assurances  of  the  general  were  satisfactory  to  them. 
They  were  simply  a  recognition  that  Puebla  should  be 
no  exception  to  the  general  course  our  army  has  pursued 
in  this  country  as  regards  the  inviolability  of  the  rights, 
persons,  religion,  and  authority  of  the  city,  so  far  as  not 
incompatible  with  its  military  occupation.  The  troops  in 
the  course  of  the  day  were  all  got  into  quarters,  although 
it  was  accomplished  in  a  very  undignified  manner,  the 
general,  at  the  head  of  his  staff,  personally  superintend- 
ing the  breaking  open  of  the  doors  of  the  barracks  when- 
ever they  were  not  opened  by  the  keys  in  season  to  satisfy 
his  impatient  spirit. 

May  16-22.  The  army  continued  in  the  peaceful 
occupation  of  Puebla,  and  nothing  occurred  to  disturb 
the  general  tranquillity  except  two  or  three  cases  of 
broils,  occasioned  by  the  imprudence  of  our  own  people, 
and  one  report  of  the  march  of  Santa  Anna  to  attack  the 
city.  Some  changes  were  made  in  the  distribution  of 
troops,  much  attention  paid  to  the  rumors  of  the  streets, 
and  no  general  system  of  measures  adopted  in  relation  to 
the  defenses  of  the  city,  or  to  the  dispositions  to  be  made 
in  case  of  the  attack  of  an  enemy.  The  people  were 
decidedly  hostile  to  Santa  Anna,  and  our  respect  for 
their  rights  was  making  a  decided  change  in  our  favor. 
On  the  20th  and  21st  the  city  was  rife  with  rumors  of 
the  approach  of  General  Taylor  to  San  Luis  Potosi,  and 
at  length  it  was  said  that  General  Taylor  had  been  taken 
prisoner  and  hanged.  Information  came  on  the  21st  that 
General  Scott  was  still  at  Jalapa,  and  would  not  leave 
till  the  23d. 


144  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

May  23,  24.  Affairs  continue  tranquil.  Information 
has  come  that  General  Twiggs  left  Jalapa  Saturday,  May 
22,  and  was  followed  by  General  Scott  on  Sunday.  My 
own  health  is  improving  very  rapidly,  and  on  the  24th  I 
reported  to  Captain  Lee  my  readiness  for  duty. 

May  25.  Engaged  on  a  reconnoissance  of  the  road 
to  Tlascala.  There  are  two  roads,  one  for  carriages  and 
one  for  mules,  which  continue  separate  the  whole  distance 
to  Tlascala.  This  reconnoissance  occupied  seven  hours, 
and  was  supported  by  twelve  sappers. 

May  26.  Accompanied  Captain  Lee  and  Lieutenants 
Mason  and  Tower  in  an  examination  of  the  hill  and  the 
adjacent  parts  of  the  city,  to  determine  a  position  for  our 
troops  in  case  of  the  attack  of  the  enemy.  The  occupa- 
tion of  the  hill,  the  Cuartel  San  Jose,  and  some  buildings 
on  the  right  and  left,  fulfilled  the  conditions  quite  well. 
It  commanded  the  city,  and  the  approaches  to  it  in  the 
direction  of  the  hill  afforded  room  for  stores,  wagons, 
and  animals.  This  examination  was  suggested  to  Gen- 
eral Worth  by  Captain  Lee  on  the  first  occupation  of  the 
city,  but  was  deferred  in  consequence  of  press  of  busi- 
ness, and  was  ordered  to-day  in  consequence  of  a  report 
that  a  strong  force  of  the  enemy  was  marching  upon  the 
city  from  Mexico. 

May  27.  A  fatigue  party  with  some  sappers,  and  all 
under  the  direction  of  Lieutenant  Smith,  were  employed 
to-day  in  repairing  the  parapet  of  Fort  Guadalupe,  on  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  The  engineer  officers  were  engaged 
generally  in  examining  roads  entering  the  city,  and  plot- 
ting the  same. 

May  28.  General  Scott  and  staff  arrived  to-day. 
Engineers  employed  as  yesterday. 

May  29.  General  Twiggs  arrived  with  his  division 
to-day  at  three  p.  m.,  and  at  one  o'clock  the  long  roll 
beat  in  consequence  of  a  report  of  the  approach  of  the 


PUEBLA  145 

enemy,  twenty  thousand   strong.      This   proved   to   be 
unfounded. 

May  30,  31.  The  only  occurrence  of  interest  is  Santa 
Anna's  solemn  renunciation  of  power,  and  return  to  pri- 
vate life.  He  declares  in  his  manifest  that  he  has  labored 
with  a  single  eye  to  the  good  of  his  country,  and  can 
review  with  satisfaction  and  without  reproach  his  whole 
public  career.  I  cannot  but  entertain  the  opinion  that 
Santa  Anna's  renouncing  all  authority  is  in  consequence 
of  a  fixed  determination  on  his  part  to  be  "  Aut  Caesar 
aut  nihil."  It  may  be  the  deliberate  act  of  a  great  states- 
man and  patriot,  more  firmly  to  maintain  the  authority 
necessary  to  save  his  country.  He  may  act  from  the 
conviction  that  his  country,  seeing  that  he  would  not 
continue  in  authority  in  this  crisis  unless  he  were  cor- 
dially supported  by  all  parties,  would  with  one  voice 
recall  him  to  public  life  and  invest  him  with  full  powers. 
So  far  as  I  am  able  to  judge,  Santa  Anna's  career,  since 
his  return  to  Mexico,  has  been  most  glorious  and  remark- 
able. Without  resources,  and  in  the  midst  of  internal 
discord,  he  has  organized  two  large  armies,  and  made  one 
of  the  most  extraordinary  marches  in  all  history.  He 
has  been  defeated,  but  throughout  has  shown  an  admi- 
rable constancy,  and  exhibited  high  military  qualities. 
In  strategic  operations  he  has  shown  marked  ability. 
At  Buena  Vista  he  came  within  an  ace  of  utterly  defeat- 
ing General  Taylor,  and  had  he  succeeded  (and  the 
probabilities  were  in  his  favor),  he  would  have  been  able 
to  excite  to  the  highest  pitch  of  enthusiasm  the  whole 
nation.  A  large  army  might  have  been  raised,  and  our 
advance  into  the  interior  effectually  checked.  On  the 
field  of  battle  he  has  not  proved  equal  to  us.  But  it  is 
probably  due  to  the  nature  of  his  troops,  who  in  the  shock 
of  the  conflict  are  inferior  to  us,  three  or  four  to  one. 
At  Angostura,  and  at  the  Cerro   Gordo,  he  exhibited 


146  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

courage  and  an  indefatigable  spirit.  He  did  not  leave 
the  height  of  the  Cerro  Gordo  till  the  very  moment  of 
its  falling  into  our  hands,  and  he  was  obliged  to  make  his 
escape  on  one  of  the  wheel  mules  of  his  carriage.  Nor 
were  his  spirits  depressed  by  this  overwhelming  defeat. 
He  immediately  rallied  his  troops  at  Orizaba,  a  strategic 
position  in  reference  to  the  whole  route  of  Jalapa  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  Puebla.  Here  he  was  able  to  threaten  our 
lines  of  communication,  and,  without  moving  a  step,  he 
compelled  us  to  protect  our  trains  with  large  escorts  as 
they  came  up  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Jalapa.  When  nearly  a 
whole  brigade  (Riley's)  was  sent  down  to  protect  the  large 
train  supposed  to  be  the  last  of  five  hundred  wagons,  and 
it  became  evident  that  nothing  more  would  be  gained  in 
this  direction,  he  anticipated  our  advance,  and  threw  him- 
self between  us  and  the  City  of  Mexico.  He  has  now  re- 
nounced all  authority.  We  must  wait  until  his  real  object 
in  taking  this  great  step  shall  have  become  developed. 

June  3.  We  have  rumors  to-day  that  a  reinforcement 
of  3000  men  has  landed  at  Antigua,  and  is  on  the  march 
to  Jalapa.  It  has  been  determined  to  break  up  Jalapa, 
place  the  sick  in  hospital  in  Perote,  and  bring  up  the 
whole  disposable  force  to  Puebla.  At  Perote  and  Ja- 
lapa are  800  sick  and  1700  men  in  garrison.  Leaving 
a  garrison  of  400  men  in  Perote,  the  remaining  1300 
men,  with  900  recruits,  will  increase  the  troops  now  at 
Puebla,  6000  effectives  including  officers  (there  are  700 
sick),  to  8200 ;  of  the  900  recruits,  at  least  200  will  be 
left  behind  sick.  So  that  8000  men  will  be  the  extent  of 
our  force.  We  shall  probably  remain  in  Puebla  till  about 
the  1st  of  July,  and  then  advance  to  the  city  with  our 
whole  force. 

I  write  this  evening  to  my  wife  by  a  train  going  down 
to-morrow.  It  is  doubtful  whether  the  letter  will  reach 
the  States. 


PUEBLA  147 

This  is  Corpus  Christi  Day.  I  attended  church  in  the 
morning,  and  was  anything  but  pleased  with  the  idle 
ceremonies  of  the  occasion.  The  Catholicism  of  this 
country  is  a  great  corruption  of  that  of  the  United 
States.  It  is  chiefly  a  religion  of  observances,  and  of  the 
most  burdensome  and  elaborate  kind.  Excepting  human 
sacrifices,  it  is  on  a  par  with  the  religion  of  the  Aztecs. 

A  bull-fight  having  been  advertised,  I  attended  it  with 
many  other  officers,  but  the  performance  was  a  very  tame 
one.  The  bulls  were  barbarously  butchered  after  hav- 
ing been  lassoed  and  thrown  down.  Every  one  returned 
home  disgusted. 

June  4.  The  news  from  Mexico  to-day  is  less  favor- 
able to  peace.  The  congress,  it  is  said,  has  refused  to 
accept  the  resignation  of  Santa  Anna,  and  the  latter  has 
left  Mexico  to  take  command  of  the  troops.  The  land- 
ing of  Cadwallader  with  three  thousand  troops  has  been 
confirmed.  Half  a  million  of  money  is  also  on  its  way. 
Everything  bears  a  favorable  aspect  now.  The  arrival 
of  funds  is  of  great  consequence,  in  order  that  no  neces- 
sity may  arise  to  live  by  forced  contributions.  We  ought 
to  apply  to  the  support  of  the  war  the  revenues  that  for- 
merly went  to  the  central  government,  but  in  our  deal- 
ings with  individuals  scrupulously  to  pay  for  every  supply 
and  service.  To-day  I  was  employed  on  the  journal  of 
last  month.  The  officers  were  generally  employed  on  the 
drawings. 

June  6.  A  mail  arrived  to-day  with  cheering  news 
from  the  States.  The  government  was  exerting  its  en- 
ergies to  increase  both  columns  of  invasion,  and,  from  the 
success  which  had  already  attended  the  recruiting  service, 
there  was  little  doubt  that  in  the  course  of  the  season 
there  would  be  thirty  thousand  troops  in  the  field.  Six 
regiments  of  volunteers  for  the  war  were  also  to  be  called 
out. 


148  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

June  7-21.  The  army  has  continued  recruiting  its 
strength  and  awaiting  reinforcements.  Daily  drills  in 
companies,  battalions,  brigades,  and  divisions  have  tended 
to  give  tone  and  efficiency  to  the  command,  though  a 
counteracting  influence  has  been  found  in  the  troops  not 
being  paid.  Great  discontent  exists  in  consequence  of 
this.  Many  of  the  troops  are  quartered  in  damp  base- 
ments, and  all  live  on  fresh  provisions,  prolific  causes  of 
disease.  The  sickness  has  been  as  high  as  twenty-five 
per  cent,  of  the  whole  number  present,  and  even  at  this 
time  is  not  much  below  this.  In  some  regiments  the 
company  officers  do  not  attend  to  their  men,  and  particu- 
larly to  their  food.  The  use  of  the  chili,  or  Mexican 
pepper,  supplies  the  place  of  salt,  and  contributes  essen- 
tially to  the  health  of  the  troops. 

There  have  been  occasional  rumors  of  rising  in  the 
city,  to  be  assisted  by  guerrillas.  A  small  force  is  with 
the  governor  at  Athsio,  and  all  the  roads  are  infested  to 
some  extent  by  this  description  of  troops.  There  have 
been  several  attempts  to  induce  our  men  to  desert,  and 
now  a  German  is  being  tried  for  the  offense,  and  will 
probably  be  put  to  death. 

The  engineers  have  been  employed  in  drawing  a  map 
of  the  city  and  its  environs,  completing  the  drawings  of 
the  siege  of  Vera  Cruz,  and  collecting  information  in  rela- 
tion to  the  roads  and  localities  in  the  valley  of  Mexico. 

The  general-in-chief  reached  Puebla  on  the  28th,  and 
on  the  following  day  all  the  engineer  officers  and  the 
engineer  company  were  relieved  from  duty  with  particu- 
lar divisions,  and  placed  under  the  direction  of  the  senior 
engineer  at  general  headquarters.  General  Twiggs  arrived 
with  his  division  on  the  29th  of  June. 

Information  was  derived  from  Americans,  residents  of 
the  City  of  Mexico,  who  joined  the  army  as  it  penetrated 
into  the  country,  and  from  Mexicans  (robbers  and  con- 


PUEBLA  149 

trabandists),  etc.  In  consequence  of  these  inquiries,  Cap- 
tain Lee  was  enabled  to  prepare  a  map  of  all  the  routes 
from  Puebla  to  the  City  of  Mexico  and  in  its  valley,  and 
exhibiting  generally  the  topography  of  the  country,  its 
hills,  rivers,  marshes,  etc.  Much  information  was  also 
obtained  in  reference  to  the  fixed  means  of  defense  of 
the  enemy,  —  particularly  the  position  and  character  of 
field-works  and  batteries,  and  the  character  of  the  ob- 
structions from  cuts  in  the  causeways  of  approach  to  the 
city,  and  from  inundations  from  the  lakes.  In  the  inves- 
tigation of  this  matter,  one  circumstance  transpired  afford- 
ing convincing  proof  that  no  difficulty  would  be  found 
to  bribe  men  of  rank  and  influence.  A  merchant  of 
Puebla,  of  some  wealth,  extensive  connection,  and  large 
practical  knowledge  of  localities  in  all  parts  of  Mexico, 
for  the  sum  of  five  thousand  dollars  proposed  going  to 
the  City  of  Mexico  and  procuring  accurate  information 
in  reference  to  the  roads  and  localities  in  the  valley  of 
Mexico,  the  fixed  means  of  defense  of  the  enemy,  the 
force,  composition,  distribution,  and  morale  of  the  troops, 
the  state  of  public  feeling  in  the  city,  etc.  He  professed 
a  sufficient  acquaintance  with  military  matters  to  furnish 
the  information  with  entire  fullness  and  accuracy.  Nor 
did  he  ask  the  least  compensation  for  his  services  till  the 
information  furnished  should  be  pronounced  perfectly 
satisfactory.  This  proposition  was  finally  declined  by 
General  Scott. 

It  having  been  ascertained  that  Dominguez,  the  chief 
of  the  robbers  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico  and  a  resident 
of  Puebla,  was  willing  to  enter  into  the  American  service 
with  at  least  a  portion  of  the  robbers,  Major  Smith 
proposed  to  the  general-in-chief  that  they  should  be  re- 
ceived, and  employed  as  spies,  guides,  and  couriers.  This 
suggestion  met  with  his  approbation,  and  the  inspector- 
general,  Colonel  Hitchcock,  was  associated  with  Major 


150  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Smith  in  arranging  a  proper  organization.  Thus  far  the 
robbers  have  proved  useful  as  spies  and  couriers. 

General  Cadwallader  is  known  to  be  on  his  way  from 
Perote,  and  will  probably  reach  Puebla  with  his  com- 
mand to-day  or  to-morrow.  It  is  to  be  feared  that  the 
large  number  of  sick  will  render  it  necessary  to  leave  a 
garrison  in  Puebla,  reducing,  if  the  advance  to  Mexico 
obtain  within  ten  days,  the  efficient  fighting  force  to  six 
thousand  men. 

June  22-24.  Information  reached  General  Scott  on 
the  evening  of  the  23d  that  General  Cadwallader  was 
at  Perote,  and  that  he  would  leave  next  day  and  reach 
Puebla  on  Monday,  the  29th.  He  met  with  serious 
resistance  between  Jalapa  and  Perote,  particularly  at 
the  Pass  of  La  Hoya.  The  24th  was  St.  John's  Day, 
and  was  celebrated  generally  throughout  the  city.  Some 
patriotic  feeling  was  exhibited  in  the  military  dresses  and 
flags  of  the  boys.  The  engineer  company  obtained 
authority  to  change  their  quarters  to  the  convent  San 
Antonio.  The  subject  of  an  engineer  drill  was  under 
discussion  by  Lieutenants  Mason,  Stevens,  and  G.  W. 
Smith,  and  it  was  decided  that  the  manual  of  the  miner 
should  be  translated.  On  the  24th  I  submitted  to  Major 
Smith  a  brief  memoir  on  a  system  of  espionage,  and  in- 
volving the  employment  of  the  robbers  of  the  country. 

June  25-28.  During  these  days  information  has 
reached  headquarters  of  the  landing  of  General  Pillow 
at  Vera  Cruz,  and  of  his  order  to  General  Cadwallader  to 
await  his  arrival  in  Perote.  The  whole  command,  prob- 
ably amounting  to  five  thousand  men,  will  arrive  as  early 
as  the  5th  of  July. 

Rumors  for  several  days  have  been  rife  in  Puebla  of 
negotiations  for  a  treaty  of  peace  being  commenced. 
Several  messengers  are  known  to  have  arrived  from 
Mexico,  and  the  Mexican  president  has  been  notified  by 


PUEBLA  151 

General  Scott  that  a  commissioner  with  powers  to  treat 
has  arrived  from  the  United  States.  I  see  no  indication 
of  the  least  disposition  to  treat  on  the  part  of  the  Mexi- 
can nation,  and  nothing  can  stay  the  advance  of  our  army 
to  the  valley  of  Mexico.  Even  then,  in  consequence  of 
the  rainy  season  and  the  smallness  of  our  force,  we  shall 
restrict  ourselves  to  the  narrowest  limits ;  but  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  heart  of  the  country  will  feel  our  presence, 
and  the  spirit  of  the  people  will  not  be  subdued.  They 
will  flatter  themselves  with  the  hope  of  soon  driving  from 
their  capital  and  their  soil  the  infamous  invader.  New 
armies  will  be  raised,  and  we  again  in  the  fall  obliged  to 
take  the  field.  North  to  Zacatecas  let  our  arms  extend ! 
July  1.  The  Mexican  congress,  agreeably  to  the  pro- 
clamation of  the  president,  assembled  on  the  28th  of  June, 
but,  wanting  five  of  a  quorum,  adjourned  to  the  5th  of 
July,  the  special  subject  of  their  consideration  being  the 
appointing  of  commissioners  to  treat  of  peace.  Pillow 
reached  Perote  yesterday  (probably),  and  will  probably 
be  in  Puebla  on  the  7th  or  8th  inst.  It  is  also  sup- 
posed that  Pierce  has  arrived  in  Vera  Cruz  with  addi- 
tional troops.  It  is  a  doubtful  matter  whether  the  Mexi- 
can congress  will  take  a  decided  course  in  initiating 
negotiations,  or  whether  the  commissioners  whom  they 
appoint  will  agree  upon  the  terms.  I  have  every  confi- 
dence that  General  Scott,  whilst  showing  every  disposi- 
tion to  respond  to  any  desire  for  peace  which  the  Mexican 
nation  may  express,  and  exerting  his  whole  strength  to 
accomplish  that  great  object,  will  not  permit  it  to  be 
made  a  pretext  to  gain  time,  and  a  cover  to  the  complete 
organization  of  the  enemy's  force.  The  enemy  may  treat 
at  this  time.  They  stickle  on  points  of  honor,  and  will 
have  the  greatest  repugnance  to  the  occupation  of  their 
capital.  They  see  our  force  daily  increasing.  They  have 
felt  our  prowess  at  the  Cerro  Gordo.     They  know  we  de- 


152  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

sire  peace.  Our  terms  are  not  hard.  If  we  advance  and 
enter  the  City  of  Mexico,  their  government  will  be  in  a 
measure  dissolved,  and  the  favorable  moment  for  negotia- 
tions have  gone.  All  these  considerations  must  incline 
the  candid  and  intelligent  portion  of  the  nation  to  arrange 
all  matters  in  dispute  before  we  advance  from  Puebla. 
Yet  the  Castilian  obstinacy  and  pride  may  overrule  all 
these  considerations,  and  determine  them  to  try  the  issue 
of  a  protracted  contest.  It  is  possible  they  may  consider 
our  terms,  if  agreed  to,  as  the  step  fatal  and  inevitable 
towards  the  final  occupation  of  the  whole  country,  and, 
considering  the  present  conflict  as  one  for  national  inde- 
pendence, they  may  conclude  to  fight  as  long  as  a  man 
remains  to  bear  arms.  For  one,  I  cannot  but  consider 
the  issue  doubtful,  and  am  inclined  to  the  belief  that 
nothing  will  come  from  the  present  movement,  and  that 
we  shall  advance  to  and  enter  the  City  of  Mexico. 

July  4.  The  anniversary  of  our  national  independence 
has  dawned  upon  the  Americans  in  Puebla  most  auspi- 
ciously. News  came  last  evening  that  General  Pierce, 
with  two  thousand  men,  left  Vera  Cruz  on  June  28,  and 
that  in  a  week  he  would  be  followed  by  six  thousand  more 
troops.  If  this  be  true,  we  shall  be  able  to  launch  a  col- 
umn of  fifteen  thousand  men  against  the  capital.  It 
must  fall  into  our  hands  with  but  little  resistance.  The 
rainy  season  should  be  devoted  to  the  disciplining  and 
reorganization  of  the  whole  army,  new  levies  and  old 
troops.  Thus  in  October,  based  in  the  valley  of  Mexico, 
we  shall  be  in  condition  to  move  in  any  direction,  and 
doubtless,  northward,  our  columns  will  march  as  far  as 
Zacatecas,  unless  previously  peace  be  agreed  upon. 

A  war  fever  has  broken  out  afresh  in  the  capital,  and 
energetic  measures  are  being  taken  to  add  to  their  means 
of  defense.  Church  bells  are  being  cast  into  cannon,  and 
field-works  and  fortifications  put  in  good  condition. 


PUEBLA  153 

The  engineer  staff  called  on  the  general  officers  in  the 
morning  and  dined  together  afterwards.  We  passed  a 
pleasant  day. 

July  6.  A  courier  came  in  this  morning  with  informa- 
tion that  El  Pinal  was  occupied  by  a  guerrilla  force  of 
one  thousand  men/  and  that  the  train  had  been  at  Ojo  de 
Agua  two  days,  resting  from  the  fatigues  of  the  march 
from  Perote.  The  roads  were  bad,  and  many  of  the  teams 
had  given  out.  Colonel  Harney,  with  a  force  of  seven 
hundred  men  and  a  relief  train  of  forty  wagons,  started 
at  eight  o'clock, 

July  7,  to  disperse  the  assemblage  at  El  Pinal,  and 
meet  the  exposed  train  at  Nopalucan.  The  troops  still 
continue  sick.  About  noon  the  arrival  of  General  Pillow 
at  Amasoque  was  announced ;  about  five  o'clock  the  dra- 
goons arrived,  bringing  with  them  the  long-expected 
mail. 

July  8.  The  troops  reached  Puebla  about  noon  to-day, 
and  as  they  passed  General  Scott  in  review,  they  made  a 
sorry  appearance.  In  some  respects  composed  of  good 
material,  they  have  come  in  all  haste  to  the  seat  of  war 
without  a  single  day's  drill,  and  after  a  march  of  one 
hundred  and  sixty-one  miles  it  is  not  surprising  they  were 
much  worn  down.  The  day  in  the  city  was  by  all  devoted 
to  reading  letters  and  papers.  I  had  the  extreme  felicity 
of  getting  five  letters  from  my  dear  wife,  announcing  her 
comfortable  settlement  for  the  season  in  Newport.  In  a 
distant  land,  the  pleasure  of  receiving  intelligence  from 
our  dear  friends  at  home  is  above  and  beyond  all  other 
pleasures.     My  latest  dates  were  to  the  31st  of  May. 

July  9.  A  general  order  of  to-day  assigned  Pillow  to 
the  command  of  the  third  regular  division,  composed  of 
Cadwallader's  and  Pierce's  brigades,  General  Quitman 
continuing  in  command  of  the  volunteer  division  till  it 
shall  become  practicable  to  join  his  proper  regular  divi- 


154  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

sion  with  General  Taylor.  General  Shields  was  assigned 
to  the  command  of  the  volunteer  brigade  now  in  Puebla. 
We  learned  to-day  that  there  was  a  movement  to  the 
north  against  Santa  Anna  in  which  eight  states  joined. 
The  prospect  of  peace  is  very  small. 

July  10.  News  from  Mexico  more  unfavorable  to 
peace.  Congress  wants  eleven  of  a  quorum.  There  are 
now  eighteen  thousand  troops  in  the  valley  of  Mexico, 
provided  with  arms  and  sixty  pieces  of  cannon.  Four 
thousand  troops  from  San  Luis  Potosi  are  said  to  be 
daily  expected.  All  the  causeways  are  armed  with  can- 
non, protected  by  field-works  with  wet  ditches.  Impor- 
tant advantages  will  result  from  deferring  the  advance  to 
Mexico  till  the  close  of  the  rainy  season.  Time  will  be 
gained  to  put  the  new  levies  in  shape,  instructing  both 
officers  and  men  in  their  duty,  and  making  them  more 
reliable  before  an  enemy.  The  large  number  of  sick 
will  be  much  reduced,  and  sickness  will  be  prevented 
by  the  march  in  dry  weather.  Reinforcements  will  come 
up.  The  disposition  of  the  Mexicans  for  peace  will  be 
thoroughly  tested,  and  ulterior  operations  after  con- 
quering the  city  and  valley  can  be  arranged.  The  war 
can  be  vigorously  pushed  in  the  dry  season,  with  ample 
supplies  of  transportation.  The  new  levies  are  utterly 
unreliable,  and  the  main  dependence  is  in  the  old  troops, 
scarcely  six  thousand  effective  men.  Not  the  least  doubt 
is  felt  at  our  ability  at  this  time  to  enter  the  capital,  and 
it  is  not  to  be  disguised  that  every  day's  delay  increases 
the  strength  of  the  enemy's  force  and  affords  the  means 
to  perfect  his  works.  I  believe,  however,  that  our  own 
strength  will  increase  in  a  greater  ratio.  The  dry  season 
will  give  important  advantages  in  our  own  counter-works, 
greater  in  proportion  than  in  those  possessed  by  the 
enemy.  Our  victory  will  also  be  more  decisive,  and  will 
have  greater  results. 


PUEBLA  155 

July  11, 12.  The  city  has  assumed  its  usual  quietude, 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  effective  measures  will  be  at 
once  taken  to  put  the  new  levies  in  some  state  of  effi- 
ciency. This  morning  (12th)  a  squadron  of  dragoons 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Kearny  set  forth  for 
Mexico  with  a  flag  in  reference  to  an  exchange  of  prison- 
ers. A  general  order  has  just  been  published  announcing 
an  early  and  vigorous  movement,  directing  reviews  of 
the  several  divisions,  and  the  utmost  attention  to  tactical 
instruction,  etc.  It  is  understood  the  movement  will 
commence  on  Tuesday,  July  20. 

July  18.  It  has  been  ascertained  that  Pierce  will 
not  reach  Puebla  until  about  the  first  of  August  (he  left 
Vera  Cruz  July  15  or  16),  and  consequently  the  advance 
movement  has  been  deferred.  I  trust  it  will  be  deferred 
till  the  rainy  season  is  over,  and  that  in  the  mean  time  a 
train  will  go  down  and  bring  up  additional  supplies.  The 
flag  which  went  out  on  the  12th  returned  on  the  14th. 
Captain  Kearny  went  as  far  as  Rio  Frio,  and  made  the 
distance,  about  forty  miles,  in  ten  hours.  The  flag  is 
understood  to  have  had  reference  to  an  exchange  of 
prisoners.     No  answer  has  yet  been  returned. 

The  review  of  the  troops  has  been  going  on.  General 
Twiggs  has  unquestionably  the  best  division  in  the  ser- 
vice. 

In  conformity  with  instructions  from  the  general-in- 
chief,  Major  Smith  made  a  report  on  the  13th  in  refer- 
ence to  the  garrison  and  munitions  to  be  left  in  Puebla 
on  the  advance  of  the  army  to  Mexico,  and  the  position 
to  be  occupied  by  the  garrison.  On  the  15th  authority 
was  given  by  the  general  to  enlarge  the  engineer  train. 

July  25.  It  is  now  considered  hopeless  to  negotiate 
with  the  Mexican  government  until  another  blow  is 
struck,  and  accordingly  it  has  been  intimated  from 
headquarters  that  the  advance  division  shall  move   as 


156  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

soon  as  the  brigade  of  Pierce  shall  be  within  one  day's 
march.  As  it  is  almost  certain  that  Pierce  has  taken 
the  Orizaba  road,  he  cannot  reach  Puebla  much  before 
Thursday  of  next  week,  August  4,  so  that  the  advance 
cannot  be  made  till  about  Wednesday,  August  3. 

During  the  past  week  the  conversations  of  the  streets 
in  reference  to  the  probabilities  of  peace  or  war  have 
been  constantly  fluctuating  from  one  extreme  to  the 
other.  Taking  counsel  of  their  desires,  people  have 
eagerly  caught  at  straws  to  convince  themselves  that 
peace  was  certain.  At  no  time,  judging  from  actual 
facts,  has  there  been  much  probability  that  the  difficul- 
ties between  the  two  governments  would  be  adjusted  at 
this  stage  of  the  business. 

The  governing  class  of  Mexico  are  easily  elated  ;  are 
characterized  by  remarkable  tenacity  of  purpose  and 
indomitable  pride,  which  is  not  disposed  to  submit  to 
humiliation  ;  and  they  have  at  their  head  a  fit  representa- 
tive in  all  respects,  a  man  of  extensive  capacity  both  for 
peace  and  war,  and  who  possesses  in  an  eminent  degree 
genius  for  command.  In  consequence  of  the  long  and 
necessary  delay  at  Puebla,  the  enemy  have  been  able  to 
organize  quite  a  formidable  force  in  the  City  of  Mexico, 
and  to  strengthen  their  position  by  batteries  and  artificial 
obstacles,  till  now,  with  the  spirit  of  hopefulness  so  indi- 
genous to  the  Spanish  character,  they  believe  themselves 
in  condition  successfully  to  oppose  us. 

August  1.  Last  evening  a  courier  brought  notes  from 
General  Pierce  and  Colonel  Wyncoop  of  the  29th  ult. 
The  former  was  at  La  Hoya  with  two  thousand  men,  and 
no  enemy  on  the  road.  General  Smith,  July  28,  with 
the  1st  artillery,  3d  infantry,  rifle  regiment  of  New 
York  volunteers,  and  one  squadron  of  dragoons,  went 
down  to  meet  him,  and  at  the  last  accounts  was  at  Ojo 
de  Agua. 


PUEBLA  157 

It  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  push  couriers  through  to 
Vera  Cruz.  They  are  sure  to  be  searched,  and  shot  if 
papers  are  found  on  them.  Dispatches  are  made  very 
short,  on  thin,  small  pieces  of  paper,  and  concealed  in  the 
garments  of  the  couriers.  It  is  believed  that  the  enemy 
have  relays  of  horses  along  the  road  from  Vera  Cruz  to 
Mexico,  and  that  intelligence  is  transmitted  at  the  rate 
of  six  miles  an  hour.  Every  important  transaction  in 
Puebla  is  known  at  headquarters  in  the  City  of  Mexico 
in  ten  to  twelve  hours.  With  our  limited  number  of 
troops,  it  is  impracticable  to  organize  the  line  from  Puebla 
to  Vera  Cruz  so  that  our  couriers  could  travel  in  safety 
with  the  same  rapidity.  Besides  considerable  garrisons 
in  both  Perote  and  Jalapa,  there  would  have  to  be  a 
strong  force  at  Orizaba,  and  garrisons  with  stockade 
defenses  on  both  the  Orizaba  and  national  roads  every 
day's  journey,  say  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  apart.  I  say 
it  is  impracticable  so  to  organize  our  rear  and  have  left 
a  force  adequate  to  the  reduction  of  the  City  of  Mexico. 
In  my  judgment  it  would  be  our  true  military  policy 
immediately  thus  to  organize  our  rear,  and  remain  in 
Puebla  till  a  well-disciplined  army  could  be  collected 
from  the  States. 

On  Thursday,  July  29,  a  court  of  inquiry  asked  for 
by  Colonel  Riley  commenced  its  sittings,  Pillow,  Quit- 
man, and  Colonel  Clarke,  members.  That  gallant  veteran 
and  most  excellent  officer,  Colonel  Riley,  has  demanded 
an  inquiry  into  his  operations  at  the  Cerro  Gordo,  on 
the  ground  that  the  services  of  his  brigade  have  not 
received  justice  at  the  hands  of  General  Twiggs  and  the 
commander-in-chief  in  their  official  reports.  Riley  was 
a  daring  and  successful  officer  of  the  last  war,  and  has 
been  in  more  battles  and  combats  than  any  other  officer 
in  the  army.  Though  advanced  in  years,  he  is  intrepid, 
decided,  and  of  sound  judgment.     I  doubt  not  the  court 


158  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

of  inquiry  will  make  a  report  that  will  soothe  the  injured 
feelings  of  the  gallant  and  good  old  man. 

Puebla,  Mexico,  July  8,  1847. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  I  feel  and  know  that  here  I  can  do 
some  service  for  my  country.  So  long  as  my  services  shall  be 
needed  here,  I  would  not  feel  at  liberty  to  ask  to  go  home.  I 
fear  that  peace  cannot  be  brought  about  till  some  great  blow  is 
struck,  and  another  signal  victory  won.  Such  is  the  wretched 
misgovernment  of  this  people,  and  so  discordant  are  their  public 
counsels,  so  corrupt  and  selfish  their  public  men,  that  I  some- 
times fear  that  the  strong  arm  of  military  power  alone  can 
pacificate  the  nation.  No  nation  on  the  face  of  the  earth  is 
a  stronger  exemplification  of  the  strong  governing  the  weak. 
Wherever  our  army  has  gone,  the  people  have  been  benefited. 
You  can  hardly  realize  how  conciliatory  has  been  the  de- 
portment of  our  people  throughout.  All  along  the  road  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  Puebla,  beautiful  fields  of  corn  and  grain  were  left 
untouched,  when  our  horses  were  suffering  for  food.  Any 
aggression  on  the  property  of  the  people  is  promptly  punished 
and  redressed.  The  Mexican  army  ravage  their  own  peo- 
ple, and  leave  a  sad  wreck  behind  them.  We  pay  for  every- 
thing, and  protect  the  people  in  their  rights.  I  believe  the 
entrance  of  our  army  will  give  a  fresh  impulse  to  this  people. 
They  are  now  but  half  civilized,  taking  the  whole  population 
together.  An  impulse  will  be  given  to  the  arts  of  peace,  and 
the  nation  will  be  wiser  and  better  for  our  coming  among  them. 

You  may  be  sure  that  I  take  great  satisfaction  in  your  writ- 
ing frequently  to  father.  It  will  be  a  great  comfort  to  him.  I 
wish  you  so  far  as  you  can  to  occupy  my  place  as  regards  my 
own  relatives.  Besides  my  father,  Oliver,  and  Mary,  I  think 
many  of  them  are  much  attached  to  me,  and  that  they  have  a 
very  high  regard  for  you.  I  fear  their  expectations  are  much 
too  high  as  to  my  prospects  here.  I  aspire  to  no  higher  dis- 
tinction than  to  do  my  entire  duty.  Our  military  establishment 
is  so  wretchedly  organized  that  it  is  difficult  for  a  man  of 
acknowledged  merit  to  rise.  In  organizing  the  ten  new  regi- 
ments very  few  promotions  were  made  from  the  existing  organ- 
izations, in  consequence  of  which  some  of  the  ablest  military 


PUEBLA  159 

men  in  our  army  see  placed  above  them  men  totally  devoid  of 
capacity  or  zeal  for  the  public  service.  One  of  the  colonels 
of  the  new  regiments  is  a  dismissed  cadet  from  West  Point, 
and  since  I  graduated.  One  of  the  majors  of  the  volunteer 
regiments  is  a  dismissed  cadet  of  my  own  class,  a  very  stupid 
and  ignorant  fellow.  The  men  of  capacity  and  of  merit  have 
this  satisfaction :  in  difficult  straits  their  counsels  are  sought 
and  followed.  The  advice  of  lieutenants,  even,  is  taken  when 
that  of  general  officers  is  disregarded. 

Sunday,  July  18.  It  is  ten  days  since  I  wrote  the  above, 
nor  is  there  much  prospect  that  what  has  been  written,  and 
what  I  am  writing  now,  will  reach  you  for  months.  It  is  a 
great  pleasure  to  write,  and  I  know  that  whatever  I  write  you 
will  be  glad  to  read.  Pierce  will  not  arrive  in  Puebla  with  his 
brigade  before  the  1st  of  August,  nor  can  we  advance  to 
Mexico  till  after  his  arrival.  We  shall  be  detained  here  at 
least  three  weeks,  a  length  of  time  invaluable  to  get  well  our 
sick  and  put  in  good  shape  our  new  levies.  You  can  hardly  real- 
ize either  the  scenery  or  the  climate  of  this  place.  To  the  west 
are  the  two  snowy  mountains  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl, 
their  crests  far  above  the  clouds,  to  the  north,  Malinche,  hoar 
with  occasional  frosts,  and  in  every  other  direction  gentle  eleva- 
tions, the  whole  inclosing  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile 
valleys  in  the  world.  Though  in  the  nineteenth  degree  of  lati- 
tude and  in  midsummer,  the  climate  corresponds  with  Newport 
in  the  month  of  April.  This  is  due  to  the  snowy  mountains, 
our  high  elevation  above  the  sea  (at  least  7500  feet),  and  the 
daily  rains.  Every  afternoon  regularly,  we  have  a  copious 
shower,  and  frequently  a  deluge  of  rain.  I  find  four  blankets 
and  my  woolen  drawers  necessary  to  keep  me  warm.  We  need 
as  much  bedclothing  as  in  Bucksport  in  midwinter.  I  wear 
thick  clothes  all  the  time,  and  sometimes  an  overcoat.  The 
gentlemen  of  Puebla  are  accustomed  to  wear  their  cloaks 
habitually.  For  one  I  could  not  dispense  with  flannel  under- 
clothes. Yet  we  never  have  frosts,  and  all  the  fruits  and  vege- 
tables come  to  maturity  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is  a  very 
trying  climate.  The  extreme  rarity  of  the  atmosphere  is  trying 
to  all  of  us.  It  checks  the  insensible  perspiration,  and  we  have 
to  be  careful  to  keep  well.     At  the  present  time  my  health  is 


160  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

perfect.  I  was  never  better  in  my  life,  and  this  is  the  result 
of  an  abstemiousness  in  both  eating  and  drinking  which  I  have 
practiced  ever  since  my  arrival.  We  have  an  engineer  mess  of 
five  officers.  For  breakfast  and  supper  we  scarcely  ever  have 
anything  but  dry  toasted  bread  without  butter  and  hard-boiled 
eggs.  For  dinner,  meats  plainly  but  thoroughly  cooked,  and  a 
variety  of  vegetables  without  fruit  or  pastry.  Fruit  is  con- 
sidered unhealthy.  In  one  of  your  letters  you  inquire  if  my 
servant  is  not  in  my  way.  You  must  recollect  that  our  servants 
do  our  washing  as  well  as  take  care  of  our  horses  and  attend 
upon  us.  My  servant's  part  is  to  wait  upon  table  and  clean  the 
dishes.  He  has  to  take  care  of  my  room,  make  up  my  bed, 
mend  my  clothes,  see  that  they  are  washed  and  in  good  condi- 
tion, and  take  care  of  my  horse.  He  is  expected  to  spend  much 
time  in  cleaning  my  horse,  and  he  has  to  ride  him  every  day  for 
exercise  when  I  have  no  occasion  to  use  him  myself.  My  ser- 
vant's name  is  Michael  Cunningham,  a  native  of  New  York, 
and  a  very  good-hearted  and  attentive  fellow.  Michael's  only 
fault  is  that  occasionally  he  indulges  in  an  extra  glass.  This  I 
hope  to  correct.  My  old  soldier  in  Vera  Cruz  I  was  obliged  to 
discharge  for  drunkenness.  Michael  I  found  in  Puebla.  He 
was  a  soldier  whose  term  of  enlistment  had  expired.  I  like 
this  kind  of  life  very  much.  But  you  need  not  fear  that  I 
shall  look  back  to  it  with  regret,  when  I  find  myself  in  the 
midst  of  my  little  family  and  by  my  own  fireside.  Wherever 
we  are,  it  is  wise  to  be  content.  It  makes  one's  duties  pleasanter, 
and  our  lives  more  profitable. 

You  may  inquire  how  I  spend  my  time.  We  breakfast  at 
eight,  dine  at  two,  and  sup  at  seven.  I  generally  rise  in  season 
for  breakfast,  and  go  to  bed  about  twelve  at  night.  After 
breakfast  I  take  a  walk  and  call  on  my  friends.  From  ten  to 
five  o'clock  I  pass  in  my  room  in  attending  to  my  official  duties, 
which  are  now  entirely  sedentary,  and  consist  in  preparing 
returns,  reports,  making  drawings,  etc.,  or  in  studying  my  pro- 
fession as  found  in  the  books  which  I  brought  out  with  me, 
and  which  are  a  perfect  treasure.  Five  to  nine  is  spent  in 
visiting,  talking,  receiving  visits,  etc.  Nine  to  twelve  I  pass 
generally  in  reading.  Thus  my  time  is  well  filled,  and  I  am 
being  in  some  degree  useful  and  preparing  myself  for  future 


PUEBLA  161 

usefulness.  Mason  spends  his  time  very  much  in  the  same  way. 
I  am  studying  daily  the  Spanish  language,  and  hope  before 
leaving  this  country  to  be  able  to  speak  it. 

Captain  Pitman,  of  Providence,  now  senior  captain  of  the  9th 
infantry,  I  see  frequently.  He  came  up  with  Cadwallader,  and 
is  spoken  of  highly  by  those  who  have  had  opportunities  to  wit- 
ness his  deportment  as  an  officer.  I  have  no  doubt  he  will  do 
good  service,  though  unfortunately  his  company  is  small,  some 
thirty  odd  effective  men.  He  is  determined  to  learn  his  profes- 
sion, and  will  soon  get  his  company  in  good  condition. 

Sunday,  August  1.  My  dear  wife,  since  I  have  been  an  ob- 
server in  this  country,  I  have  been  more  and  more  convinced 
that  the  hero  age  has  not  yet  gone.  This  country,  so  highly 
favored  by  nature,  a  land  emphatically  of  sun  and  flowers,  so 
abject  in  the  slavishness  and  brutality  of  its  people,  needs  a 
hero  spirit  for  its  regeneration.  Cortez  and  his  devoted  band 
did  a  great  work,  a  work  fit  for  heroes  and  prophets.  His  iron 
will  and  great  soul  planted  Castilian  civilization  and  enterprise 
in  the  midst  of  a  contracted  and  superstitious  people ;  and  cities 
of  fine  proportions,  magnificent  works  of  art,  cathedrals  to  the 
worship  of  the  Most  High,  gardens  in  the  arid  plain  and  the 
dense  chapparal  and  the  wild  forest  field  soon  greeted  the  eyes 
of  men  in  attestation  of  his  genius.  But  with  the  decline  of 
Castilian  grandeur,  Mexico  ceased  to  be  governed  by  a  race  of 
heroes,  and  her  governors  and  her  priests  have  degenerated  into 
mere  cumberers  of  the  earth,  having  zeal  only  for  their  own 
aggrandizement.  Is  not  here  a  work  for  a  Moses  or  an  Alfred? 
Is  he  not  needed?  And  must  he  not  arise?  With  the  times 
must  come  the  man. 

But  enough  of  this.  "We  are  still  in  Puebla,  our  army  eleven 
thousand  strong,  daily  improving  in  health,  discipline,  and  effi- 
ciency, General  Pierce  some  five  days  behind  with  that  eagerly 
looked-for  mail  that  is  to  bring  us  tidings  from  our  homes,  and 
all  eyes  turned  to  Mexico,  ready  for  either  alternative  of  peace 
or  war.  We  all  hope  that  this  vexed  question  may  be  settled 
here  on  terms  honorable  to  both  countries.  But  if  this  is  not 
to  be,  no  man  fears  the  ultimate  result.  Every  private  in  the 
ranks  has  a  solid  and  well-grounded  conviction  that  our  flag  is 
never  destined  to  retire,  that  no  effort  of  the  enemy  can  pull  it 
down.      If  we  move  onward,  no  mortal  arm  can  prevent  the 


162  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

valley  of  Mexico  from  falling  into  our  hands.  General  Scott  is 
a  remarkable  man.  I  will  acknowledge  that  I  was  under  wrong 
impressions  as  to  his  character.  Of  a  strong  and  comprehensive 
mind,  he  has  extraordinary  tenacity  of  purpose,  great  self-reli- 
ance, and  a  power  of  labor  equaled  by  few  men.  He  is  emphat- 
ically the  leader  of  our  army,  and  has  its  confidence.  None  of 
our  general  officers  are  to  be  compared  with  him.  He  has  his 
weak  points,  which  I  will  not  mention  now.  No  man  in  this 
army  doubts  his  fitness  to  command. 

August  7.  Since  writing  the  above  General  Pierce  has  arrived 
with  a  mail  from  the  States,  bringing  to  me  the  melancholy 
tidings  that  my  sister  Mary  was  in  Cincinnati  in  the  last  stages 
of  consumption,  unable  to  proceed  farther  on  her  way  home. 
Oliver  went  on  to  bring  her  home,  and  wrote  me  the  very  day 
of  his  arrival.  I  wrote  you  yesterday  by  a  courier  employed  at 
great  expense  to  go  down  to  Vera  Cruz,  but  it  is  very  uncertain 
whether  he  will  get  through.  All  the  letters  that  have  been 
sent  to  the  States  for  months  have  been  by  couriers,  who  carry 
80  to  100  letters,  each  a  very  small  package,  at  two  dollars  per 
letter,  and  for  the  sake  of  the  gain  run  the  gauntlet  of  the  guer- 
rillas and  robbers  that  infest  the  road.  About  one  half  get 
through.  I  trust  that  letter  will  reach  you,  as  it  would,  I  think, 
serve  to  remove  much  doubt  in  reference  to  the  movement  of 
our  army  upon  the  City  of  Mexico.  Twiggs's  division  com- 
menced its  movement  to-day.  To-morrow  General  Scott  and 
staff  will  leave  Puebla,  and  reach  Twiggs  the  same  evening  at 
San  Martin.  Every  one  is  in  fine  spirits,  and  no  doubt  is  felt 
as  to  the  result.  This  letter  I  must  now  bring  to  a  close,  and 
get  ready  for  the  march.  I  shall  not  be  able  to  add  to  it  till  we 
enter  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  go  again  into  quarters.  At  that 
time  not  far  distant,  I  trust  not  more  than  fourteen  days, 
I  trust  I  shall  be  able  to  inform  you  of  a  glorious  victory  and 
of  my  own  personal  safety.  I  for  one  have  not  the  least  pre- 
sentiment of  coming  personal  danger.  I  simply  fear  that  my 
strength  may  not  hold  out  to  the  last.  But  with  prudence  I 
have  little  apprehension  as  to  my  strength  proving  inadequate 
for  my  share  of  duty.  I  must  now,  with  all  hope  and  confidence 
in  the  future,  bid  you  good-night  and  my  sweet  babes,  commend- 
ing you  all  to  the  care  of  that  great  Being  who  does  not  permit 
a  sparrow  to  fall  to  the  ground  without  his  knowledge. 


UNIVERSITY 


CHAPTER  X 

ADVANCE   TO   MEXICO,   EL   PENON,    CONTRERAS, 
CHURUBUSCO 

The  City  of  Mexico  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  an  irreg- 
ular basin  some  thirty-five  miles  from  north  to  south 
and  twenty-five  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  is  separated 
from  the  great  plain  of  Puebla  by  the  eastern  branch  of 
the  great  Cordillera  of  Anahuac,  interposing  an  elevation 
of  nineteen  hundred  feet  at  the  Pass  of  the  Rio  Frio. 

It  was  known  from  information  collected  by  the  engi- 
neers that  the  city  was  entirely  surrounded  either  by  an 
inundation  or  by  marshy  ground,  and  was  approached 
by  eight  causeways,  flanked  with  wet  ditches,  and  pro- 
vided with  numerous  cuts ;  that  the  whole  city  was  pro- 
tected by  a  double  and  in  some  quarters  by  a  triple  line 
of  defensive  works,  well  armed  with  cannon,  and  defended 
by  an  army  of  some  thirty  thousand  men.  The  direct 
approach  along  the  great  national  road  was  defended  by 
the  strong  position  of  the  Penon,  seven  miles  from  the 
city.  Chapultef>ec  stood  boldly  out  on  the  southwest,  and 
on  the  north  there  were  said  to  be  formidable  works  at 
Guadalupe. 

After  entering  the  valley  along  the  national  road,  there 
were  three  general  modes  of  approaching  the  city,  —  the 
direct  along  the  national  road,  around  Lake  Tezcuco  on 
the  north,  Chalco  and  Xochimilco  on  the  south. 

All  the  information  collected  pointed  to  the  south  and 
west  as  the  proper  quarter  from  whence  to  attack  the 
city ;  the  south  presented  an  extended  front  with  four  of 


164  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  eight  causeways  of  entrance  nearly  parallel  to  each 
other,  and  was  necessarily  weak.  On  the  west  the  suburb 
of  San  Cosme,  a  single  street  lined  with  houses  on  either 
side,  extended  well  into  the  country,  and  afforded  a  vul- 
nerable point.  Chapultepec,  not  deemed  a  very  formid- 
able obstacle,  required  to  be  swept  away  to  be  free  to 
select  the  point  of  attack.  Hence  Tacubaya,  a  strong- 
village  overawing  Chapultepec,  became  the  key  point  of 
the  whole  operation.  In  the  particular  operation  against 
the  southern  front,  the  occupancy  of  the  church  and  vil- 
lage of  Piedad  was  of  the  last  importance,  in  view  of  all 
the  southern  gates,  communicating  directly  with  all  the 
villages  in  rear  from  Tacubaya  to  San  Augustine,  and  by 
a  good  cross  road  controlling  the  three  causeways  of  San 
Antonio,  Nino  Perdido,  and  Piedad. 

Before  ultimately  deciding  upon  the  strategic  line,  Gen- 
eral Scott  determined  to  enter  the  valley  at  the  head  of 
the  column,  and  whilst  the  rear  was  closing  up,  to  employ 
spies  and  push  forward  reconnoissances  to  get  accurate 
information  of  all  the  material  facts  bearing  on  the  plan 
of  operations. 

Accordingly,  on  the  7th  of  August  the  division  of 
Twiggs,  with  the  engineer  company  at  its  head,  led  the 
advance,  followed  on  successive  days  by  Quitman,  Worth, 
and  Pillow.  General  Scott  and  staff  joined  the  advance 
on  the  8th.  On  the  11th  Twiggs  reached  Ayotla,  fifteen 
miles  from  Mexico,  Quitman  Buena  Vista,  Worth  Rio 
Frio,  Pillow  Tesmaluca,  respectively  3J  miles,  11|  miles, 
and  20|  miles  in  rear. 

On  the  12th  a  reconnoissance  of  the  Penon  was  made 
by  Captains  Lee  and  Mason  and  Lieutenant  Stevens,  the 
escort  consisting  of  a  squadron  of  the  dragoons,  Cap- 
tain Thornton,  a  section  of  Taylor's  battery,  and  the  4th 
artillery,  —  the  whole  under  the  command  of  Major 
Gardner.     The  Penon  was  found  to  be  an  extensive  and 


ADVANCE  TO  MEXICO  165 

commanding  position,  entirely  surrounded  by  water,  — 
Lake  Tezcuco  stretching  miles  to  the  north.  The  base  of 
the  hill,  four  hundred  feet  high,  was  surrounded  by  a 
continuous  parallel  armed  with  batteries,  and  the  defenses 
rose  in  amphitheatre  to  the  top,  which  was  crowned  by  a 
small  work.  The  only  causeway  of  approach  was  swept 
by  two  lines  of  works,  and  the  defenses  of  the  whole 
position  were  formidable.  A  road  branching  off  from 
the  main  road,  two  miles  from  the  Penon,  and  leading  to 
Mexicalcingo,  was  pursued  some  two  miles,  and  found  to 
be  exceedingly  good.  The  Indians  in  the  neighborhood 
reported  that  the  road  was  equally  good  throughout  its 
whole  extent,  but  that  the  bridge  at  Mexicalcingo  was 
broken  down. 

An  amusing  incident  occurred  in  the  progress  of  this 
reconnoissance.  Three  officers  —  Major  Gaines,  of  the 
Kentucky  volunteers,  Captain  Mason  and  Lieutenant 
Stevens,  of  the  engineers  —  approached  the  causeway 
some  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  escort, 
and  advanced  towards  a  group  of  Mexican  officers,  some 
eight  or  ten  in  number,  who  were  flourishing  their  lances 
and  curveting  their  horses  as  if  to  frighten  the  American 
officers  away.  The  latter,  well  mounted,  continued  their 
course  in  a  deliberate  walk;  and  when  they  arrived 
within  about  three  hundred  yards,  the  valiant  Mexicans 
discharged  their  pistols,  and,  rinding  no  effect  had  been 
produced  upon  the  American  officers,  who  still  continued 
to  advance,  they  immediately  took  to  flight  along  the 
causeway. 

In  the  afternoon  Captain  Lee  and  Lieutenant  Beau- 
regard reconnoitred  the  road  on  the  northern  shore  of 
Lake  Chalco,  as  far  as  the  causeway  between  Lakes 
Chalco  and  Xochimilco.  The  causeway  was  knee-deep 
in  water.  The  object  of  the  reconnoissance  (to  get  boats) 
was  not  effected.     During   the  progress  of  the  recon- 


166  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

noissance  of  the  Penon  the  Mexican  troops,  in  expecta- 
tion of  an  attack,  were  brought  out  from  the  city  in 
large  numbers.  Major  Smith  and  Lieutenant  Tower, 
from  a  hill  one  thousand  feet  high,  in  advance  of  Ayotla, 
observed  the  passage  of  troops  from  the  city  to  the 
Penon  during  the  progress  of  this  reconnoissance. 

On  the  3d  a  minute  reconnoissance  of  the  ground 
between  the  lakes  was  made  by  the  engineers,  supported 
by  Shields's  brigade,  who  at  nine  o'clock  left  camp  to 
block  up  the  Penon. 

Captain  Mason,  supported  by  Sibley's  dragoons  and 
the  rifles,  and  accompanied  by  Lieutenants  Beauregard 
and  McClellan,  examined  the  position  of  Mexicalcingo, 
seven  miles  from  the  Penon,  pursuing  the  road  that  was 
partially  examined  yesterday.  This  bold  movement, - 
almost  under  the  guns  of  the  Penon,  and  extremely  haz- 
ardous in  presence  of  an  enterprising  enemy,  was  accom- 
plished in  the  most  successful  mariner.  After  arriving  at 
Mexicalcingo  the  party  was  joined  by  Captain  Lee  and 
Lieutenant  Tower,  who,  with  a  squadron  of  dragoons, 
had  taken  the  route  of  the  lakes  to  examine  the  roads. 

Mexicalcingo  was  found  to  be  a  strong  position,  de- 
fended by  seven  batteries,  and  entirely  surrounded  by 
water  and  marshy  ground. 

The  Penon  was  minutely  examined  by  Lieutenant 
Stevens,  who  entered  the  inundation  at  several  points, 
and  succeeded  in  examining  the  whole  position,  except- 
ing a  very  inconsiderable  portion  on  the  western  slope. 
He  entered  the  lake,  and  for  a  whole  mile  the  water  did 
not  rise  above  the  fetlocks  of  his  horse.  South  of  the 
causeway  the  water  was  carefully  examined  to  determine 
the  best  crossing-place.  Two  were  found  where  water 
was  not  over  two  feet  in  depth,  and  the  bottom  very 
hard.  The  positions  of  the  several  batteries  and  the  paths 
of   approach   were   discovered.     The  position  was  even 


EL  PENON  167 

more  formidable  than  it  seemed  yesterday.  Over  thirty 
guns  were  in  position.  New  batteries  were  being  erected, 
and  stockades  on  the  hill.  The  whole  inundation  was 
swept  by  powerful  batteries.  Lieutenant  Stevens  was 
engaged  seven  hours  in  this  reconnoissance,  most  of  the 
time  within  twelve  hundred  yards  of  the  enemy's  guns. 

We  all  returned  late,  much  fatigued  with  our  day's 
work.  The  general  expressed  much  gratification  at  the 
information  furnished  by  the  several  reconnoissances. 

The  general  has  not  yet  entirely  decided  upon  his 
course.  He  listens  to  everything,  weighs  everything, 
and,  when  he  sees  his  way  clear,  will  act  with  prompti- 
tude. Pillow  arrived  to-day,  and  immediately  proceeded 
to  Chalco. 

August  14.  Little  was  done  to-day  in  the  way  of 
reconnoissances.  Captain  Mason  and  Lieutenant  Beau- 
regard were  assigned  to  duty  with  the  division  of  General 
Worth,  and  joined  him  at  Chalco.  Lieutenant  Tower 
commenced  a  reconnoissance  of  the  lakes,  to  determine 
the  practicability  of  transport  by  water  to  Mexicalcingo, 
but  did  not  succeed  in  getting  into  the  canal  of  Chalco. 
In  the  afternoon  Colonel  Duncan  arrived  at  general  head- 
quarters with  the  information  that  the  road  south  of  the 
lakes  was  practicable.  (He  had  explored  ten  miles  of  the 
road  with  a  column.)  Accordingly,  the  plan  of  the  gen- 
eral to  attack  Mexicalcingo  in  front,  sending  Worth's 
division  around  to  attack  in  rear,  was  abandoned,  and  it 
was  determined  to  move  the  whole  army  around  the 
lakes. 

August  15.  Headquarters  left  Ayotla  at  eleven,  and 
proceeded  to  Chalco,  Worth  pushing  from  Chalco  the 
same  evening,  and  Quitman  entering  Chalco.  Captain 
Lee  and  Lieutenant  Tower  were  assigned  to  the  brigade 
of  Harney  for  temporary  duty  with  the  advance.  The 
engineer  company  also  joined  the  advance  of  Worth. 


168  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

August  16.  All  the  divisions  in  motion  this  morning. 
The  road  around  the  lakes  was  narrow  and  rough,  in 
many  cases  passing  through  a  narrow  defile  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  lake,  on  one  side  abrupt  acclivities,  and  on 
the  other  a  quagmire,  into  which  the  least  false  step 
would  plunge  one  several  feet  deep. 

Headquarters,  before  reaching  the  camping-ground  of 
Worth  of  the  previous  night,  had  to  pass  Quitman's  and 
Pillow's  train.  On  arriving  at  Chimalpa,  headquarters 
remained  some  hours  for  authentic  intelligence  from 
Twiggs,  it  having  been  reported  that  in  marching  out 
from  Ayotla,  early  in  the  morning,  he  had  encountered  a 
large  force  of  the  enemy  under  Alvarez.  On  learning 
that  Taylor's  battery,  in  firing  seven  rounds,  dispersed 
the  large  body  of  enemy's  lancers  which  made  a  demon- 
stration against  Twiggs  at  the  point  where  the  route  left 
the  national  road  to  wind  round  Chalco,  headquarters 
moved  forward  to  Tulancingo,  where  we  passed  the  night. 
This  village  is  remarkable  for  its  large  and  ancient  olive 
groves.  The  olive-trees  on  either  side  of  the  road, 
stretching  out  their  arms,  form  an  arch  above  like  the 
elms  of  New  England. 

August  17.  Headquarters  reached  Xochimilco  this 
day  with  Pillow's  and  Quitman's  divisions,  Worth  advan- 
cing as  far  as  San  Augustin,  and  Twiggs  reaching  Pil- 
low's camping-ground  of  last  evening.  The  road  to-day 
was  extremely  difficult,  and  required  some  working  to  fill 
up  cuts,  and  remove  stones  and  other  obstructions  placed 
in  the  road.  The  march  was  very  laborious  in  conse- 
quence of  the  continual  halts. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  18th  General  Scott 
reached  San  Augustin,  called  the  engineers,  observed, 
"  To-day  the  enemy  may  feel  us,  to-morrow  we  must  feel 
him,"  and  ordered  reconnoissances  to  determine  the  best 
mode  of  reaching  the  position  of  Tacubaya.     There  were 


ADVANCE   TO  MEXICO  169 

two  roads,  —  the  direct  by  San  Antonio,  which  was  already 
ascertained  to  be  occupied  in  strength  by  the  enemy, 
and  one  to  the  west  passing  through  Contreras  and  San 
Angel,  known,  however,  for  a  portion  of  the  distance 
to  be  simply  a  mule-path. 

Major  Smith  directed  in  person  the  examination  of 
the  San  Antonio  route,  assisted  by  Captain  Mason,  Lieu- 
tenants Stevens  and  Tower,  and  Captain  Lee  that  to  the 
west,  assisted  by  Lieutenant  Beauregard.  The  instruc- 
tions of  the  general  as  to  reconnoissances  had  been 
already  anticipated  by  General  Worth  as  regards  the 
Contreras  route,  who  had  pushed  his  division  forward, 
and  dispatched  Captain  Mason,  escorted  by  Thornton's 
dragoons,  to  reconnoitre  the  enemy's  position  at  San 
Antonio.  Whilst  in  the  discharge  of  this  duty  two  shots 
from  a  battery  of  the  enemy  were  fired,  killing  Captain 
Thornton  outright  and  severely  wounding  Fitzwater,  an 
interpreter. 

General  Worth  immediately  placed  his  division  in  the 
occupancy  of  the  Hacienda  Cuapa,  thus  affording  the 
most  ample  protection  to  the  escorts  of  the  engineers. 
Major  Smith  now  ordered  Captain  Mason  and  Lieutenant 
Tower  to  examine  the  enemy's  right,  and  Lieutenant 
Stevens  his  left. 

Captain  Mason  first  went  to  the  steeple  of  a  church 
near  by  to  determine  the  best  mode  of  conducting  his 
reconnoissance,  and  then  with  Colonel  C.  F.  Smith's 
light  battalion  he  passed  over  a  field  of  pedregal  to  our 
left,  till  he  got  a  full  view  of  the  rear  of  the  enemy.  He 
traced  paths  leading  to  Mexicalcingo,  interrogated  the 
peons,  and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  whole  posi- 
tion might  be  turned  and  the  enemy  made  to  abandon  it, 
by  crossing  an  infantry  force  on  the  line  he  had  just 
pursued,  and  falling  upon  the  enemy  at  daylight  with 
the  bayonet. 


170  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Lieutenant  Stevens  was  twice  recalled  whilst  pushing 
his  reconnoissance,  first,  by  order  of  Colonel  Garland  in 
consequence  of  an  apprehended  attack  from  the  enemy, 
and  second,  by  direction  of  Major  Smith,  the  senior  en- 
gineer. This  officer  did  not  deem  it  necessary  to  do  any- 
thing further,  observing  to  General  Worth  that  he  had 
examined  the  whole  vicinity  from  the  top  of  the  hacienda, 
and  had  also  interrogated  the  residents,  and  was  satisfied 
that  the  ground  was  firm  on  our  right,  and  afforded  a 
route  to  turn  the  enemy's  position.  Lieutenant  Stevens 
expressed  doubts  as  to  this,  and  was  permitted  to  go  on 
with  his  examination.  He  persevered  until  night,  and 
found  that  the  ground  was  marshy,  intersected  with 
canals,  and  that  operations  in  this  direction  were  not 
practicable. 

In  the  mean  time  Captain  Lee,  with  Kearny's  dragoons 
and  Graham's  11th  infantry,  reconnoitred  the  route  by 
Contreras.  At  about  a  mile  and  a  half  it  became  a  mule- 
path,  requiring  to  be  worked  to  be  practicable  for  artil- 
lery, and  on  ascending  a  hill  a  mile  and  a  half  farther  on, 
a  large  intrenched  camp  opened  to  view  at  a  mile's  dis- 
tance, occupied  in  strength  by  the  enemy,  and  completely 
closing  the  Contreras  route,  which  for  the  intervening 
distance  passed  through  a  bed  of  pedregal,  a  lava  rock 
of  honeycomb  projection.  After  passing  the  intrenched 
camp,  the  road  was  known  to  be  good.  At  the  hill  the 
party  had  a  successful  skirmish  with  the  enemy's  pickets, 
and  then  returned  to  San  Augustin. 

In  the  afternoon  General  Scott  examined  in  person  the 
San  Antonio  front,  and  at  his  quarters  that  evening, 
after  hearing  the  reports  of  the  engineers,  he  decided  to 
mask  San  Antonio,  and  force  the  intrenched  camp  at 
Contreras.  Captain  Mason  alone  of  the  engineers  advo- 
cated the  forcing  of  San  Antonio. 

On  the  19th  Twiggs's  division,  on  coming  up  from 


ADVANCE  TO  MEXICO  171 

Xochimilco,  was  pushed  forward  to  the  support  of  Gen- 
eral Pillow,  already  on  his  way  to  furnish  parties  to  work 
the  road.  The  engineer  company,  with  its  tools  on  the 
backs  of  mules,  was  ordered  back  from  Worth  early  that 
morning  and  assigned  to  Captain  Lee,  who,  assisted  by 
Lieutenants  Beauregard  and  Tower,  located  the  road  and 
superintended  the  working  parties. 

Major  Smith,  assisted  by  Lieutenant  Stevens,  desig- 
nated the  positions  to  be  occupied  by  the  trains  and  the 
division  of  Quitman  at  San  Augustin,  now  become  the 
general  depot  and  key  of .  operations.  Captain  Mason 
continued  on  duty  with  Worth  in  front  of  San  Antonio. 

General  Twiggs  passed  the  division  of  Pillow  just  as 
the  tools  of  his  working  parties  were  being  packed  away, 
they  being  no  longer  able  to  work  the  way  in  consequence 
of  having  come  within  range  of  the  enemy's  batteries ; 
and  the  engineers,  now  joined  by  Major  Smith  and 
Lieutenant  Stevens  from  San  Augustin,  advanced  to 
and  entered  the  pedregal  to  examine  the  enemy's  posi- 
tion. As  observed  yesterday  by  Captain  Lee,  he  was 
found  to  be  in  a  strong  intrenched  camp  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  a  deep  ravine,  which,  with  the  almost  imprac- 
ticable bed  of  pedregal  that  intervened,  completely  sepa- 
rated the  two  armies.  All  the  efforts  of  the  engineers, 
who  advanced  close  to  the  enemy's  pickets,  Lieutenant 
McClellan  having  his  horse  shot  under  him,  could  dis- 
cover no  other  route  than  the  mule-path,  completely  com- 
manded by  the  long  guns  of  the  intrenched  camp.  This 
path  wound  through  the  rocks,  and  afforded  at  points 
some  little  cover  for  men  and  guns.  The  pickets  of  the 
enemy  were  in  large  force  and  well  pushed  forward.  In 
the  mean  time  a  heavy  cannonade,  shells  and  round-shot, 
opened  from  the  camp.  At  this  juncture,  with  the 
rifles  thrown  forward  as  skirmishers,  the  howitzer  bat- 
tery of  Callender  and  the  field  battery  of  Magruder  were 


l/r  CALIFO^ 


172  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

brought  forward  to  a  position  indicated  by  Captain  Lee 
to  drive  in  the  pickets  and  make  a  bold  demonstration,  to 
cover  the  true  and  very  different  movement,  indicated  by 
Lieutenant  Stevens  on  returning  from  the  advanced  posi- 
tion gained  by  the  engineers  under  cover  of  the  rifles 
to  communicate  Captain  Lee's  request  for  the  batteries, 
and  before  the  order  to  move  forward  the  batteries  had 
been  given.  This  officer  (Lieutenant  Stevens)  observed 
to  Twiggs,  the  senior  officer  in  front,  "  The  true  point 
of  attack  is  the  enemy's  left.  Attack  his  left,  you  cut 
him  off  from  his  reserves  and  hurl  him  into  the  gorges 
of  the  mountains."  Major  Smith  expressed  similar  opin- 
ions. Riley  was  now  sent  against  the  enemy's  left,  and 
the  whole  brigade  of  Smith  to  cover  the  demonstration 
in  front.  Callender  brought  his  battery  into  action  with 
extraordinary  promptness  and  efficiency,  and  pushed  it 
rapidly  forward.  The  heavier  guns  of  Magruder  could 
not  be  so  easily  handled,  and  great  delay  occurred  in  get- 
ting them  into  battery  ;  a  position  was  found  partially 
sheltering  them,  and  they  were  brought  into  action. 
Callender  was  soon  severely,  and  T.  Preston  Johnston 
of  Magruder's  battery  mortally  wounded.  Lieutenant 
McClellan,  who  assisted  to  carry  Callender  to  the  rear, 
now  took  command  of  his  battery,  Lieutenant  Reno 
being  at  the  time  detached  with  the  rockets.  Lieutenant 
Foster  also,  at  Captain  Magruder's  request,  took  charge 
of  one  of  his  pieces,  and  when  Johnston  fell,  carried  him 
to  the  rear.  Both  these  officers  distinguished  themselves 
by  their  exertions  in  pushing  forward  the  two  batteries 
as  well  as  in  serving  them. 

Riley  was  still  struggling  through  the  pedregal,  Lieu- 
tenant Tower  guiding  his  brigade,  and  Cadwallader  was 
sent  in  the  same  direction.  Smith's  brigade,  closely 
followed  by  Pierce,  now  came  to  the  front,  and  entered 
a  cornfield  to  the  left,  three  companies  of   the  3d  in- 


CasaMata*  ClnipiilU-pee  *  ^ 


BATTLEFIELDS  IN  THE  VALLEY  OF  MEXICO 

Contreras,  Churnbusco,  Molino  del  Rey,  Chapultepec,  Capture  of  City 


ADVANCE  TO  MEXICO  173 

fantry,  Captain  Craig,  being  detailed  as  a  guard  to  the 
batteries,  and  Lieutenant  Haskin  with  twenty  men  to 
make  good  Magruder's  losses.  The  fire  from  the  camp 
—  shot,  shells,  and  small-arms  —  on  the  front  was  terrible, 
and  the  enemy's  pickets  advanced  in  force,  threatening 
the  batteries.  The  leading  regiment  of  Pierce,  the  9th 
infantry,  Colonel  Ransom,  conducted  by  Lieutenant  Ste- 
vens, now  gallantly  dashed  forward  through  the  fire  that 
swept  the  path,  crossed  a  cleared  cornfield  in  direct  view 
of  the  enemy's  battery,  pressed  from  cover  to  cover, 
driving  clouds  of  the  enemy's  skirmishers  before  them, 
crossed  the  rapid  stream  that  ran  in  the  ravine,  and 
gained  the  opposite  bank,  within  three  or  four  hundred 
yards  of  the  camp.  This  important  position  it  main- 
tained till  dark,  forming  with  the  12th  infantry,  the 
detachments  of  Craig  and  Haskin,  and  scattered  bodies 
of  the  rifles,  the  sole  force  in  front ;  the  15th  infan- 
try, Colonel  Morgan,  having  been  sent  in  the  trail  of 
Cadwallader  immediately  on  the  arrival  of  the  general- 
in-chief  on  the  ground,  and  Smith  with  his  brigade  fol- 
lowing at  a  later  period. 

Riley  on  emerging  from  the  pedregal  came  upon  the 
village  of  San  Geronimo,  through  which  he  swept,  and 
continued  to  advance  in  the  direction  of  a  ravine  that 
was  found  to  extend  to  the  rear  of  the  camp.  In  this 
isolated  position  he  had  two  successful  encounters  with 
the  enemy's  lancers,  killing  their  general,  Frontera,  and 
awaited  only  the  coming  up  of  reinforcements  to  order 
the  assault.  But  Cadwallader,  not  put  in  motion  till 
Riley  was  well  on  his  way,  had  barely  time  to  reach  the 
village  and  hold  it  against  the  reserves  of  the  enemy,  esti- 
mated at  ten  thousand  men,  foot  and  horse,  which  now 
came  up  from  the  city  under  Santa  Anna  in  person.  The 
village,  the  key  to  the  position,  was  to  be  maintained  at 
all  hazards.     Cadwallader   presented   a   bold  front  and 


174  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

kept  the  enemy  in  check.  The  arrival  of  Morgan  an 
hour  later,  and  of  Smith  towards  night,  made  the  position 
impregnable  against  an  infantry  attack. 

About  sunset  Riley  returned  to  the  village,  and  Smith, 
now  senior  in  command,  resolved  to  attack  the  reserves, 
but,  dark  coming  on  before  his  dispositions  were  made,  an 
attack  upon  the  intrenched  camp  was  resorted  to  as  an 
alternative. 

A  dark  and  stormy  night  now  closed  in  upon  the  scene, 
and  the  soldiers  in  their  dreary  bivouac  were  placed  in 
readiness  for  the  morrow's  work.  All  thus  far  had  gone 
on  well.  Worth  in  front  of  San  Antonio  maintained  the 
front  and  rear.  Smith  in  the  village  of  San  Geronimo 
held  the  key  of  the  offensive  movement  to  the  enemy's 
left;  his  rear,  thanks  to  the  pedregal  and  Pierce,  still 
held  in  front  of  the  intrenched  camp,  being  safe  against 
attack. 

The  general-in-chief  returned  at  nightfall  to  San 
Augustin.  Many  bodies  of  stragglers  were  to  be  seen 
on  the  field.  Even  the  two  commanders  of  divisions, 
Pillow  and  Twiggs,  failed  in  reaching  the  village,  where 
their  commands  were  in  position,  and  within  reach  of  an 
overwhelming  force.  As  the  fire  of  our  batteries  died 
away  and  they  were  withdrawn,  cheer  on  cheer  rose  from 
the  enemy's  extended  line.  Rain  coming  on,  many  bodies 
of  stragglers  not  being  able  to  find  their  commands,  the 
principal  force  hemmed  up  in  a  little  village  within  reach 
of  the  enemy's  heavy  batteries  and  within  striking  dis- 
tance of  his  large  force,  for  the  first  time  a  feeling  of 
despondency  seized  upon  the  minds  of  our  men.  Happily, 
General  Smith,  the  officer  in  command  at  the  village,  was 
equal  to  the  emergency,  and  extricated  our  force  from  its 
perilous  situation. 

He  determined  upon  a  night  attack,  and  sent  Captain 
Lee  to  San  Augustin  to  confer  with  the  general-in-chief 


CONTRERAS  175 

in  reference  to  supporting  it  by  a  diversion  in  front.  In 
consequence  of  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  the  general 
deemed  it  impracticable  to  get  any  portion  of  Worth's 
command  upon  the  ground  in  season,  but  gave  full 
powers  to  Captain  Lee  to  collect  all  the  stragglers  in 
front  to  operate  as  a  diversion  to  the  main  attack  pro- 
jected by  General  Smith. 

In  the  course  of  this  interview  General  Pillow  and 
General  Twiggs  came  in,  stating  that,  in  consequence  of 
the  darkness  and  having  no  guide,  they  had  found  it 
impracticable  to  reach  the  village,  and  were  obliged  to 
retrace  their  steps;  Pillow  adding  that  they  fell  upon 
one  of  the  enemy's  pickets  while  thus  groping  their  way, 
or  came  so  near  as  plainly  to  hear  their  voices.  Twiggs, 
a  heavy  man  advanced  in  years,  fell  into  one  of  the 
hollows  of  which  the  formation  was  full,  and  injured 
himself  considerably. 

I  was  present  during  almost  the  entire  interview,  hav- 
ing entered  the  room  shortly  after  the  arrival  of  Captain 
Lee,  and  everything  I  witnessed  increased,  if  it  were  pos- 
sible, my  confidence  in  General  Scott.  Himself  on  the 
ground  till  dark  came  on,  he  had  grasped  the  whole  field 
of  operations,  and  had  determined  to  adhere  to  his  origi- 
nal plan.  He  listened  with  perfect  composure  and  com- 
placency to  Captain  Lee's  statement  of  the  field,  occasion- 
ally introducing  a  pertinent  question,  and  with  the  utmost 
patience  weighed  the  various  suggestions  of  the  officers, 
and  particularly  General  Smith's  plan  of  a  night  attack. 
Neither  General  Pillow  nor  General  Twiggs  made  any 
suggestions  as  to  what  should  be  done.  Captain  Lee, 
having  been  in  all  parts  of  the  field,  and  having  full 
information  on  almost  every  point,  was,  as  it  were,  the 
only  person  whom  it  was  necessary  to  listen  to. 

The  general  listened  with  equal  patience  to  what  I  had 
observed  on  the  front  attack.  In  the  very  commencement, 


176  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  before  the  batteries  had  been  ordered  forward,  I 
stated  with  much  emphasis  to  General  Twiggs  that  the 
attack  should  be  against  the  enemy's  left.  "  Attack  his 
left,  you  cut  him  off  from  his  reserves  and  hurl  him 
into  the  gorges  of  the  mountains."  I,  however,  conducted 
the  batteries  forward,  and  with  the  assistance  of  Lieuten- 
ants McClellan  and  Foster,  placed  them  in  position.  After 
reconnoitring  towards  the  right  in  the  attempt  to  find  a 
better  path  for  our  guns  and  troops,  and  without  success, 
I  returned  to  the  batteries,  which  in  the  mean  time  had 
been  considerably  advanced,  and  were  exposed  to  a  tre- 
mendous fire  of  grape.  The  howitzer  battery  was  being 
served  with  great  effect,  and  had  almost  cleared  the 
ground  in  front  of  the  ravine  of  the  enemy.  But  very 
great  delay  occurred  in  bringing  forward  Magruder's 
battery  and  opening  its  fire.  Everything  seemed  to  go 
wrong  with  him.  The  enemy's  grape,  within  point-blank 
range,  in  a  measure  disabled  the  howitzer  battery,  wound- 
ing many  of  the  gunners  and  finally  disabling  Callender, 
who  was  wounded  in  both  legs,  and  at  this  moment  some 
little  delay  occurred  in  getting  a  supply  of  spherical  case- 
shot.  The  supporting  party  was  reduced  to  some  eight 
rifles,  and  the  enemy's  skirmishers  advanced.  General 
Smith's  brigade  came  up,  and  entered  the  cornfield  to 
the  left  of  the  battery.  At  my  request,  two  or  three 
companies  of  the  3d  infantry  advanced  to  the  front  and 
right  to  protect  the  batteries.  Soon  the  9th  infantry 
came  up,  with  general  orders  to  support  the  batteries,  and 
were  conducted  by  me  over  a  cut  and  open  cornfield, 
under  a  shower  of  the  enemy's  grape,  to  the  cover  of  a 
ledge,  from  which,  passing  from  cover  to  cover,  driving 
the  enemy's  skirmishers  before  them,  they  reached  the 
ravine,  and  crossing  which  they  sheltered  themselves  on 
the  opposite  bluff  on  the  edge  of  a  cornfield.  Colonel 
Ransom  showed  great  gallantry  and  force  in  the  manage- 


CONTRERAS  177 

ment  of  his  command,  and  to  show  the  promptness  of 
his  command  in  following  him,  this  anecdote  is  related. 
Only  some  eight  or  ten  men  were  seen  lagging  behind, 
and  these  an  officer  of  the  regiment  was  cursing  most 
lustily  to  urge  them  forward. 

Just  as  the  regiment  had  reached  its  position  I  met 
General  Twiggs,  and  we  both  ascended  to  a  little  ridge, 
where  we  had  a  full  view  of  the  enemy's  intrenched 
camp.  Soon  a  shower  of  grape  came  in  our  direction. 
General  Twiggs  remained  in  his  exposed  position  without 
moving  a  muscle,  till  I  suggested  the  propriety  of  his 
stepping  down  to  a  little  depression  which  afforded  cover. 

He  informed  me  that  Eiley  had  been  moving  against 
the  enemy's  right  for  more  than  an  hour.  I  remarked,  "  I 
will  go  and  find  him,  and  bring  you  back  word  of  where 
he  is,"  to  which  General  Twiggs  assented,  and  I  immedi- 
ately started  in  search  of  Riley.  I  was,  however,  much 
exhausted  by  my  previous  exertions,  and  the  ground  was 
of  the  difficult  and  almost  impracticable  honeycomb  lava 
rock,  and  I  was  obliged  to  abandon  the  attempt,  and 
returned  to  the  advanced  position  of  the  9th  infantry. 

On  an  elevated  ridge  just  on  the  edge  of  the  ravine, 
and  partly  sheltered  by  a  cedar-tree,  I  had  a  distinct  view 
of  the  whole  position.  I  observed  the  encounter  of  the 
lancers  with  our  own  troops  (which  I  afterwards  ascer- 
tained to  be  Riley's  command),  and  after  an  interval  the 
enemy's  reserves  advancing  in  great  force.  They  con- 
tinued to  advance  in  two  lines  of  lancers  and  infantry, 
with  clouds  of  skirmishers  in  front,  and  halted,  their 
right  nearly  opposite  the  village  of  San  Geronimo. 

Whilst  these  reserves  were  advancing,  there  was  an 
evident  slackening,  and  at  length  a  total  cessation,  of  our 
return  fire  in  front  to  the  almost  continual  fire  of  grape 
and  escopettes  of  the  enemy.  This  led  me  to  suppose 
that  a  change  had  taken  place  in  our  dispositions,  involv- 


178  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

ing  great  exposure  perhaps  to  the  9th,  and  I  returned 
for  information.  On  my  return  I  met  many  bodies  of 
stragglers,  who  could  afford  no  information  as  to  the 
state  of  the  field,  heard  the  triumphal  shouts  from  the 
Mexican  lines,  and  finally  fell  upon  General  Pillow  and 
General  Twiggs.  General  Pillow  was  in  much  perplexity, 
was  intent  upon  finding  the  village  of  San  Geronimo,  and 
wished  me  to  conduct  the  9th  to  that  place.  Not  hav- 
ing been  to  the  village,  and  dark  coming  on,  I  confessed 
my  inability  to  conduct  the  regiment  as  he  desired,  and 
after  considerable  hesitation  he  directed  me  to  bring  back 
the  regiment  to  the  position  of  Magruder's  battery.  I 
accordingly  went  in  the  direction  of  the  ravine,  my  chief 
guide  being  the  discharge  of  the  enemy's  guns  from  the 
position  of  the  reserve ;  but  that  failing,  and  the  night 
becoming  quite  dark,  I  lost  my  way  and  wandered  about, 
until  finally  I  heard  voices  approaching  in  my  direction, 
which  I  soon  discovered  to  be  from  our  own  troops. 
Calling  out  to  them,  I  was  answered  by  Lieutenant  Fos- 
ter, of  my  own  corps,  who  informed  me  that  he  was  retir- 
ing with  a  party  of  about  thirty  rifles  and  9th  infantry 
men,  having  just  been  driven  out  from  a  small  building, 
higher  up  and  on  the  same  stream  with  the  position  of 
the  9th  infantry,  by  a  large  force  of  the  enemy.  At 
this  time  I  was  so  exhausted  that  I  could  walk  only  with 
great  difficulty,  and  was  obliged  to  abandon  going  in 
quest  of  the  9th,  and  returned  with  Foster,  who  gave 
me  the  support  of  his  arm  till  we  reached  Sibley's  troop 
of  dragoons,  near  the  foot  of  the  hill  from  which  General 
Scott  had  overlooked  the  field.  As  we  wended  our  way 
along  the  rain  fell,  small  bodies  of  troops  were  to  be 
seen  from  time  to  time,  and  everything  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  broken  and  dispirited  army.  It  was  perhaps 
the  only  desponding  moment  our  troops  had  seen  since 
the  opening  of  the  campaign. 


CONTRERAS  179 

After  resting  about  half  an  hour,  I  returned  with 
Sibley,  and  reported  what  I  had  observed  as  above. 

During  the  whole  of  this  memorable  evening,  not  only 
was  General  Scott  perfectly  composed  and  assured,  but,  in 
his  intercourse  with  those  present,  neglected  none  of  the 
courtesies  due  to  guests.  All  those  who  came  in  tired 
and  wet  from  the  field  he  made  sit  down  at  his  table  and 
break  their  fast. 

About  twelve  o'clock  General  Twiggs  and  Captain 
Lee  set  out  on  their  way  back  to  the  field,  Pillow  remain- 
ing in  town  to  sleep ;  and  on  arriving  on  the  ground  of 
the  front  attack  Twiggs,  entirely  exhausted  by  his  exer- 
tions, sought  a  little  rest,  and  Lee  collected  the  9th  and 
12th,  with  some  sappers  and  rifles,  to  make  a  diversion 
in  front. 

This  note-book  is  not  the  place  for  a  detailed  account 
of  the  brilliant  conflict  planned  by  General  Smith.  Suf- 
fice it  to  say  that,  in  consequence  of  the  darkness  and 
constant  rain  of  the  night,  the  attack  projected  to  be 
made  at  three  was  not  actually  made  till  daylight.  It 
was  eminently  successful,  and  without  doubt  was  the 
most  brilliant  affair  of  the  war.  The  principal  charge 
was  made  by  Riley  on  their  reverse  and  rear,  led  by 
Tower,  and  supported  by  Smith's  and  Cadwallader's 
brigades,  respectively  commanded  by  Dimick  and  Cad- 
wallader,  Ransom  in  front  making  a  diversion  with  the 
troops  that  had  been  collected  in  that  quarter.  The 
position  was  carried  with  little  loss  on  our  part,  and  the 
whole  force  of  the  enemy  either  killed,  wounded,  taken 
prisoners,  or  driven  solitary  fugitives  from  the  field. 
General  Valencia  made  his  escape  with  the  lancers  in 
an  eccentric  direction,  and  was  afterwards  heard  of  at 
Toluca. 

Our  troops  pushed  on  in  pursuit  and  soon  entered  the 
town  of  San  Angel,  through  which  Santa  Anna   had 


180  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

passed  that  very  morning  with  his  reserves  of  fifteen 
thousand  men.  After  a  short  halt  at  San  Angel,  Pillow 
in  command  ordered  the  column  to  move  on  Coyoacan, 
where  an  unimportant  skirmish  took  place. 

Here  General  Scott  joined  the  column,  and  ordered  a 
halt  to  reconnoitre  and  bring  up  the  captured '  guns. 
Captain  Lee  went  towards  San  Antonio  with  a  dragoon 
escort  to  communicate  with  Worth,  and  I  to  the  steeple 
of  the  church  to  use  my  glass.  Turning  it  on  the  San 
Antonio  road,  I  observed  the  enemy  in  full  retreat,  the 
whole  road  from  San  Antonio  for  more  than  a  mile 
towards  the  city  being  filled  with  troops,  pack-mules, 
and  wagons.  On  reporting  this  to  General  Scott,  he 
ordered  Twiggs  to  advance  to  cut  off  their  retreat,  and 
assigned  me  to  duty  as  the  senior  engineer  officer  of  his 
division. 

CHURUBUSCO. 

On  the  head  of  the  column  reaching  the  fork  of  a 
road,  whither  a  party  of  one  hundred  lancers  had  been 
driven  by  the  mounted  rifles,  it  was  halted  and  a  very 
rapid  reconnoissance  made  of  the  roads  in  advance. 
Lieutenant  McClellan  taking  the  left-hand  road  and  I 
the  right,  they  were  found  to  lead  respectively  to,  and 
directly  in  front  of,  a  church,  which  was  observed  to  be 
occupied  in  strength.  McClellan  observed  one  gun,  and 
a  prisoner  taken  on  the  ground  reported  there  were  two 
guns.  The  engineer  company  was  advanced  in  front  of 
the  building  to  support  and  continue  the  reconnoissance. 
Whilst  on  this  duty  it  became  engaged  with  the  enemy, 
and  the  1st  artillery  was  ordered  up  in  support. 

Thus  the  action,  on  the  part  of  Twiggs's  division,  com- 
menced. It  having  been  entered  on,  it  was  determined 
to  make  a  bold  and  quick  matter  of  it.  Taylor's  battery 
was  ordered  up,  and  took  a  position  in  the  open  space  in 
front  of  the  church.     It  was  expected  it  would  drive  the 


CHURUBUSCO  181 

enemy  from  the  roof,1  and  enable  the  division  —  Smith 
in  front,  Riley  on  the  left,  and  perhaps  a  regiment  along 
the  direct  road —  to  carry  the  work  by  a  coup  de  main. 
This  course,  recommended  by  myself  to  Twiggs,  was 
taken.  Some  delay,  however,  occurred  before  Riley  got 
in  position  and  opened  his  fire.  Meantime  Taylor,  serv- 
ing his  battery  with  extraordinary  coolness  and  energy, 
was  met  by  a  terrific  return  from  the  enemy,  who  poured 
upon  him  an  unceasing  deluge  of  grape,  his  whole  bat- 
tery consisting  of  eight  guns,  one  a  16-pounder.  Taylor 
breasted  it  manfully  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  when,  two 
of  his  officers  wounded  and  many  of  his  men  and  horses 
killed  and  disabled,  he  was  compelled  most  reluctantly  to 
retire. 

Soon  after  this  Riley  got  in  position  and  opened  a 
sharp  fire,  producing  an  immediate  and  evident  abate- 
ment in  the  enemy's  fire.  The  1st  artillery  had  been 
in  position  from  the  commencement  of  the  attack,  and 
was  now  followed  by  the  3d  infantry.  The  work  at- 
tacked in  front  and  rear  by  our  infantry,  all  retreat  cut 
off  by  Shields  and  Pierce  occupying  the  causeway  in  rear, 
Worth  in  possession  of  the  tete-de^jont,  Duncan  open- 
ing two  guns  on  one  of  the  long  faces  of  the  work,  and 
Larkin  Smith  directing  a  4-pounder  against  the  convent, 
the  white  flag  was  hung  out  at  the  very  moment  the 
2d  and  3d  infantry  from  the  rear  and  front  carried  the 
work  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet.  Immediately  the  flag 
of  the  3d  infantry  was  planted  on  the  roof  of  the  build- 
ing; and  over  one  thousand  prisoners,  including  three 
general  officers,  surrendered  to  Twiggs. 

The  battle  of  Contreras  and  the  subsequent  advance 

1  The  flat  roof  on  the  convent  and  most  of  the  buildings  in  Mexico  afforded 
strong  positions  for  defense,  being  surrounded  by  parapets,  known  as  azo- 
teas,  formed  by  carrying  the  walls  some  four  feet  above  the  roofs.  The 
convent  azotea  was  lined  with  infantry. 


182  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

upon  San  Angel  and  Coyoacan  led  to  the  evacuation  of 
San  Antonio.  Whilst  this  was  in  progress,  Clarke's 
brigade,  conducted  by  Captain  Mason,  of  the  engineers, 
made  a  flank  movement  to  the  left,  and  cut  the  enemy's 
retreating  column  of  three  thousand  in  two,  dispersing 
the  rear  portion  and  preventing  its  reaching  the  main 
body  and  entering  into  the  subsequent  fight.  Worth, 
with  both  brigades,  now  pushed  forward  with  great  en- 
ergy upon  the  heels  of  the  other  portion,  till  the  column 
was  arrested  by  a  fire  of  grape  from  a  strong  bastioned 
field-work  of  fourteen  feet  relief  and  wet  ditches  in 
front,  covering  the  passage  of  a  canal,  and  somewhat  in 
rear  of  the  work  attacked  by  Twiggs,  and  which,  like  the 
latter  work,  had  not  been  noticed  in  the  previous  recon- 
noissances.  Both  brigades  were  formed  in  the  cornfields 
on  the  right ;  the  charge  was  ordered,  Clarke  in  advance; 
and  after  a  desperate  but  short  conflict  the  work  was 
carried  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  the  6th  infantry  and 
2d  artillery  particularly  distinguishing  themselves. 

In  the  mean  time  Shields,  in  command  of  Shields's 
and  Pierce's  brigades,  conducted  by  Captain  Lee,  the 
Palmetto  regiment  in  advance,  pursued  a  route  to  the 
left,  and  finally  came  in  contact  with  the  enemy  near  the 
hacienda  on  the  great  San  Antonio  causeway,  a  mile  from 
the  tete-de-pont.  The  enemy  were  in  great  force  lining 
the  causeway,  and  the  lancers  advancing  towards  the 
canal.  The  Palmettoes  advanced  most  gallantly,  led  by 
their  gallant  colonel,  Butler;  but  some  hesitancy  was 
manifested  by  the  other  commands,  who  retired  under 
cover  of  the  hacienda  or  crowded  behind  the  Palmettoes. 
Notwithstanding  the  utmost  exertions  of  the  officers,  a 
pause  took  place  at  good  escapette  range,  and  a  consider- 
able loss  was  experienced.  The  Palmettoes  lost  their 
colonel,  shot  dead,  their  lieutenant-colonel,  wounded,  four 
successive  color-bearers,  shot  down,  and  nearly  half  their 


CHURUBUSCO  183 

rank  and  file  killed  and  wounded.  Finally  the  move- 
ment was  commenced,  the  enemy  was  charged  through, 
and  the  causeway  was  filled  with  fugitives  to  the  city. 

The  dragoons,  who  thus  far  had  continued  inactive, 
now  took  the  causeway  in  pursuit,  and  the  most  gallant 
feat  of  the  war  was  enacted.  Captain  Kearny,  in  ad- 
vance with  a  squadron,  pursued  the  fugitives  to  the  very 
garita,  where  he  charged  directly  up  to  a  battery  under  a 
fire  of  grape,  dismounted,  calling  upon  his  men  to  follow 
him,  and  entered  the  gorge  of  the  work  to  take  it  by 
assault.  Looking  around,  he  found  himself  alone,  the 
few  men  immediately  following  him  having  been  shot 
down,  and  the  remainder  having  retired  in  obedience  to 
the  return  call  from  the  rear,  which  for  Kearny's  safety 
had  just  at  this  moment  been  inauspiciously  sounded. 
Surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  fugitives,  who  pressed  too 
closely  upon  him  to  use  their  weapons,  he  retreated, 
making  a  passage  with  his  sword,  mounted  a  jaded  Mexi- 
can horse,  and  commenced  to  retire.  Finding  that  the 
sorry  speed  of  the  brute  would  long  time  expose  him  to 
the  enemy's  grape,  he  dismounted  and  sought  a  better 
steed.  Scarcely  was  he  mounted  when  his  arm  was  car- 
ried away  by  a  grape ;  but  he  succeeded  in  making  good 
his  retreat.  His  first  lieutenant,  Ewell,  had  two  horses 
shot  under  him,  and  his  second  lieutenant,  Graham,  was 
wounded  in  the  hand. 

This  was  the  terrible  and  decisive  conflict  of  the  war, 
and  was  a  case  of  a  combined  movement  of  all  the  divi- 
sions. The  enemy's  intrenched  works  were  carried  at 
the  point  of  the  bayonet.  Surrounded  on  all  sides,  the 
strong  defensive  building  attacked  by  Twiggs  was  obliged 
to  surrender ;  the  reserves,  vigorously  pushed,  fled  from 
the  field ;  and  the  army,  which  in  the  morning  was  esti- 
mated to  be  27,000  strong,  scarcely  presented  in  the 
evening  a  sorry  array  of  4000.     We  could  have  entered 


184  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  city  the  same  day  had  we  chosen.  But  our  troops  had 
made  extraordinary  exertions,  our  casualties  were  great, 
and  the  general  determined  to  operate  against  the  city 
after  deliberately  weighing  its  capacity  for  defense. 

After  this  disastrous  defeat  of  the  enemy  General 
Scott  rode  through  his  lines,  addressing  with  terseness, 
brevity,  and  feeling  the  troops  as  he  passed  them,  who 
received  him  with  great  enthusiasm,  and  exhibiting  all 
that  moderation  and  equanimity  which  has  eminently 
characterized  his  course  throughout  this  campaign.  To- 
wards night  he  returned  to  his  quarters  at  San  Augustin. 

All  the  divisions  suffered  in  nearly  equal  proportion, 
the  casualties  amounting  to  1066,  of  which  about  one 
fourth  were  killed  or  permanently  disabled. 

The  1st  artillery  suffered  most  severely  in  officers,  los- 
ing in  all  the  battles  five  gallant  officers,  Captains  Capron 
and  Burke,  Lieutenants  Irons,  Johnson,  and  Hoffman. 

It  is  probable  the  same  and  perhaps  more  decisive 
results  could  have  been  effected,  and  with  far  less  loss, 
had  Twiggs  and  Worth  stopped  in  mid-career,  and  an 
hour  been  taken  to  reconnoitre  the  enemy's  position. 
Pillow  and  Shields  with  Garland's  brigade  and  Duncan's 
battery  demonstrating  in  front,  Twiggs's  whole  division 
with  Taylor  and  the  howitzer  battery  on  the  enemy's 
right,  Clarke's  brigade  on  their  left,  both  making  consid- 
erable detours,  Clarke  as  a  demonstration,  Twiggs  the 
great  attack,  the  causeway  might  have  been  gained ;  Tay- 
lor's battery  sent  thundering  on  the  enemy's  rear,  with 
Harney's  horse  and  Riley's  brigade  cutting  off  all  hope 
of  succor,  the  enemy's  works  and  the  reserves  inclosed 
by  our  troops  must  have  immediately  surrendered.  Then, 
the  prisoners  and  their  works  left  in  charge  of  Pillow, 
all  the  other  divisions  united  could  have  been  pushed 
forward  in  support  of  Riley,  and  the  city  could  have 
been  stormed  with  little  or  no  loss. 


CHURUBUSCO  186 

This  is  expecting  impossibilities.  We  knew  nothing 
of  the  enemy's  works,  but  we  saw  them  in  full  retreat, 
we  pushed  forward  to  cut  off  their  retreat,  and,  coming 
upon  the  enemy's  intrenched  position,  we  became  engaged 
in  the  very  act  of  reconnoitring  it.  The  result  was  most 
glorious  to  our  arms,  and  will,  we  trust,  conclude  the 
war. 

Major  Smith,  the  chief  engineer,  was  present  during 
the  battle  of  Churubusco,  and  was  distinguished  for 
gallantry.  He  is  suffering  with  the  same  disability  as 
myself. 

We  were  both  .exceedingly  fatigued  with  our  exertions, 
and  were  glad  to  get  a  night's  rest  at  our  quarters  at 
San  Augustin.  Shortly  after  our  return  Captain  Lee 
and  Lieutenant  Tower  came  in. 

Captain  Lee  had  made  the  most  extraordinary  exer- 
tions, having  been  on  foot  for  two  days  and  a  night  with- 
out a  moment's  rest.  It  was  almost  the  only  instance  in 
this  war  I  have  seen  him  fatigued.  His  services  were  of 
the  most  important  character,  not  second  to  those  of  any 
individual  in  this  army.  Lieutenant  Tower,  in  his  night 
reconnoissance  and  subsequent  services  in  leading  Riley's 
brigade  against  Valencia's  intrenched  camp,  exhibited 
great  resolution  and  high  military  qualities. 

It  seemed  to  be  conceded  by  the  whole  army  that  the 
engineers  in  these  important  operations  had  done  their 
duty,  and  that  every  individual  officer  had  shown  a  readi- 
ness to  participate  in  the  perils  incident  to  their  service. 
In  truth,  the  whole  army,  officers  and  men,  were  gal- 
lant, and  in  several  instances  exhibited  all  the  terrible 
energy  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race. 

The  night  attack  by  Smith,  and  the  storming  of  the 
works  at  Churubusco  by  Worth  and  Twiggs,  are  unsur- 
passed in  war.  The  former  was  a  rare  combination  of  sci- 
ence and  force,  the  latter  an  instance  of  desperate  valor. 


186  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

I  slept  little  that  night.  The  picture  was  mingled 
sunshine  and  clouds.  The  mangled  forms  of  Capron, 
Burke,  Johnston,  and  others  whom  I  personally  knew 
and  respected,  I  could  not  keep  from  my  mind.  The 
experience  of  war  is  saddening.  The  terrible  scenes  of 
the  battlefield  cannot  be  effaced  from  the  memory.  We 
realize  the  observation  of  Franklin,  "  I  scarcely  ever  knew 
a  good  war  or  a  bad  peace." 

Lieutenant  Stevens  gained  great  reputation,  both  at 
headquarters  and  in  the  army  generally,  by  the  part  he 
took  in  these  brilliant  operations.  His  reconnoissance  of 
El  Penon  was  considered  one  of  the  most  daring  and  com- 
plete of  the  war,  and,  as  he  modestly  remarks,  "  General 
Scott  was  very  much  pleased  with  my  reconnoissance,  and 
I  got  more  credit  for  it  than  I  deserved."  General  Wil- 
liam H.  French  (commander  of  the  third  corps,  Army 
of  the  Potomac,  in  1863)  writes  of  this  reconnoissance, 
in  which  he  participated  as  one  of  the  covering  party: 
"  It  brought  Lieutenant  Stevens  conspicuously  before  the 
army.  That  night  the  reports  of  the  different  officers  of 
engineers  were  made  to  the  general-in-chief  in  person ; 
that  of  Lieutenant  Stevens  was  so  full  and  clear,  it  in  a 
great  measure  decided  General  Scott  to  take  the  route 
around  Lake  Chalco,  and  attack  the  City  of  Mexico  in 
reverse.  From  this  time  the  general-in-chief  recognized 
his  ability  and  talents." 

His  exertions  at  El  Penon  overtasked  his  strength, 
however,  and  in  consequence  he  was  obliged  to  ride  for 
three  days  in  an  ambulance  on  the  march  around  Lake 
Chalco  as  far  as  Rochimilco. 

In  the  movement  on  the  intrenched  camp  at  Contre- 
ras,  Lieutenant  Stevens,  advancing  with  the  skirmishers 
to  reconnoitre  the  position,  saw  at  once  that  the  decisive 
movement  would  be  to  turn  the  enemy's  left,  and  seize 
the  road  between  the  camp  and  the  city,  thus  isolating 


CHUKUBUSCO  187 

the  former  and  cutting  it  off  from  reinforcements.  Has- 
tening to  General  Twiggs,  he  urged  this  movement  upon 
that  officer  in  his  earnest  and  forcible  manner,  saying, 
"  The  true  point  of  attack  is  the  enemy's  left.  Attack 
his  left,  you  cut  him  off  from  his  reserves,  and  hurl  him 
into  the  gorges  of  the  mountains."  The  movement  was 
at  once  decided  upon.  Riley's  brigade  was  directed  to 
the  right  (enemy's  left)  over  the  pedregal,  followed  by 
Cadwallader,  and  later  by  Shields  and  Smith ;  San  Gero- 
nimo  was  seized,  and  the  dashing  victory  of  Contreras  was 
the  result.  Lieutenant  Stevens  was  the  first  to  see  and 
urge  this  decisive  movement,  and  his  advice  was  immedi- 
ately adopted  by  the  veteran  Twiggs. 

The  terrific  conflict  of  Churubusco,  which  followed 
hard  on  Contreras,  was  brought  on,  or  perhaps  it  may 
be  said  precipitated,  by  Lieutenant  Stevens.  From  the 
church  steeple  in  Coyoacan  he  discovered  the  enemy  in 
full  retreat  down  the  San  Antonio  causeway,  and  on  his 
report  to  that  effect,  General  Scott  at  once  ordered 
Twiggs  forward,  and  Lieutenant  Stevens  to  accompany 
him  as  his  senior  engineer  officer.  Leading  the  division 
with  the  engineer  company,  he  discovered  the  fortified 
church,  or  convent,  barring  the  road;  the  company  be- 
came engaged,  and,  the  action  having  thus  commenced, 
General  Twiggs  adopted  almost  implicitly  the  suggestions 
of  the  ardent  young  officer,  and  gave  free  rein  to  his 
efforts  "  to  make  a  bold  and  quick  matter  of  it."  Lieu- 
tenant Stevens  personally  led  and  placed  in  position 
Taylor's  battery,  the  1st  artillery  (infantry),  and  other 
troops,  greatly  exposing  himself  during  the  action.  The 
position,  however,  proved  much  stronger  than  was  ex- 
pected, a  strong  earthwork  and  breastwork  being  screened 
and  partially  concealed  by  tall,  waving  corn,  which  cov- 
ered the  fields  in  front,  and  cost  the  bloody  and  pro- 
tracted fight  before  it  fell.     Lieutenant  Stevens  did  not 


188  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

altogether  escape  criticism  for  putting  the  battery  where 
it  was  so  badly  cut  up ;  indeed,  seems  to  have  reproached 
himself ;  but  his  superiors,  the  veteran  Twiggs  and  Scott, 
found  no  fault,  knowing  full  well  that  great  boldness 
and  exertion  are  the  price  of  great  achievements  in  war. 
General  H.  J.  Hunt  relates  that,  after  entering  the  city,  a 
party  of  wounded  officers  were  talking  over  matters,  and 
Lieutenant  Stevens  reproached  himself  for  having  too 
severely  criticised  Magruder  at  Contreras,  and  remarked : 
"  The  very  next  day  at  Churubusco  I  did  worse  myself, 
acting  on  my  judgment  and  eyesight,  which  deceived  me, 
for  I  had  not  a  knowledge  of  all  the  facts  bearing  on 
the  situation.  It  was  therefore  my  fault  that  Taylor's 
battery  was  knocked  to  pieces." 

"  Here,  again,"  remarks  General  Hunt,  "  is  his  charac- 
teristic frankness  and  honesty,  and  sense  of  justice  to 
others,  breaking  out,  and  carrying  him  further  than  was 
necessary,  and  into  doing  injustice  to  himself." 

Archbishop's  Palace,  3£  miles  from  the  main  Plaza 
of  the  City  of  Mexico,  Sunday,  August  22,  1847. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  The  great  battle  of  Mexico  has  been 
fought,  and  our  arms  have  achieved  a  glorious  triumph.  Com- 
missions are  now  sitting  to  treat  of  an  armistice  that  will  ter- 
minate, as  we  all  trust,  in  a  permanent  and  honorable  peace 
to  both  countries.  Mexico  is  again  without  an  army,  and  the 
gates  of  the  capital  are  open  to  us.  Terrible  was  the  conflict, 
severe  our  loss,  particularly  in  efficient  and  gallant  officers  ;  the 
whole  army  was  engaged,  and  the  whole  public  force  of  Mexico 
struck  down,  large  numbers  of  prisoners  and  a  great  amount 
of  material  of  war  falling  into  our  hands. 

My  heart  is  filled  with  gratitude  to  the  Most  High  that  I 
had  the  strength  to  do  my  duty  with  the  other  officers  of  my 
corps,  and  that,  although  much  exposed  in  three  different  recon- 
noissances  and  two  hard-fought  battles,  I  have  escaped  without 
a  wound,  and  without  any  abatement  of  my  health  and  strength. 
I  cannot  feel  exultation.     We  have  lost  many  brave  officers 


RECONNOITRING  EL  PENON  189 

and  men,  some  my  personal  friends ;  streams  of  blood  have  in 
reality  flowed  over  the  battlefield.  The  hearts  of  the  whole 
Mexican  nation  are  thrilling  with  anguish  and  dismay.  Such 
is  war,  so  glittering  and  imposing  on  parade  and  in  anticipa- 
tion, so  terrible  in  reality. 

Puebla  is  about  seventy-five  miles  from  Mexico.  On  refer- 
ring to  the  map,  you  will  find  that  the  direct  road  passes  between 
lakes  Tezcuco  on  the  north,  Chalco  and  Xochimilco  on  the  south. 
At  the  Venta  de  Chalco,  about  twenty  miles  from  Mexico,  the 
road  turns  off  to  pass  southward  of  the  lakes.  El  Penon,  about 
eight  miles  from  Mexico,  is  a  high  hill  entirely  surrounded 
with  water,  along  the  edge  of  which  the  great  direct  road  to 
Mexico  passes,  consisting  of  a  causeway  for  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  approaching  it,  and  also  of  a  causeway  the  whole  distance 
after  leaving  it,  till  we  reach  the  City  of  Mexico. 

General  Twiggs  with  his  splendid  division  was  in  the 
advance,  followed  on  successive  days  by  Quitman,  Worth,  and 
Pillow.  In  five  days  Twiggs  was  pushed  up  to  Ayotla,  fifteen 
or  sixteen  miles  from  Mexico,  General  Scott  continuing  with 
him  in  the  advance,  and  the  other  divisions  five,  fifteen,  and 
twenty-five  miles  in  rear.  As  they  came  up  (it  required  two 
days),  they  were  held  in  reserve  at  the  head  of  Lake  Chalco, 
whilst  the  proper  reconnoissances  and  examinations  were  made 
to  determine  the  general  plan  of  attack.  The  first  day,  a  recon- 
noissance  was  made  of  the  Penon,  supported  by  a  squadron  of 
dragoons,  a  regiment  of  infantry,  and  two  pieces  of  artillery. 
The  Penon  was  found  to  be  fortified  and  occupied  in  force. 
Captain  Mason,  of  the  engineers  (my  friend  Mason),  Major 
Gaines,  of  the  Kentucky  volunteers  (taken  prisoner  just  before 
the  great  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  and  who  made  his  escape  only 
one  or  two  days  before  the  march  of  the  army  from  Puebla), 
and  myself  rode  some  distance  in  the  advance,  and  observed 
near  the  causeway  some  eight  or  ten  Mexican  officers.  We  were 
at  least  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  rest  of  our  force.  We 
advanced  upon  them,  they  curveting  their  horses  and  advan- 
cing upon  us.  When  within  about  three  hundred  yards  they 
discharged  their  pistols,  but  we  continuing  our  advance,  they 
all  turned  their  horses  and  returned  full  speed  across  the  cause- 
way, carrying  with  them  a  troop  of  lancers.     The  whole  affair 


190  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

was  very  amusing  and  afforded  much  sport.  It  did  not  dimin- 
ish our  contempt  of  Mexican  prowess. 

The  second  day  a  splendid  reconnoissance  was  made  of  the 
whole  country  between  the  lakes,  including  the  Penon  and  Mex- 
icalcingo  at  the  head  of  Lake  Xochimilco.  The  particular  recon- 
noissance of  the  Penon  was  intrusted  to  me.  On  my  little 
horse,  one  of  the  most  enduring,  spirited,  and  beautiful  animals 
in  the  service,  with  two  dragoons,  I  went  half  way  round  the 
Penon,  and  was  for  seven  hours  within  almost  point-blank  range 
of  its  guns,  examining  the  different  batteries,  determining  the 
various  approaches,  and  particularly  the  character  of  the  inun- 
dation. Frequently  I  was  in  the  water  up  to  the  belly  of  my 
horse.  General  Scott  was  very  much  pleased  with  my  recon- 
noissance, and  I  got  more  credit  for  it  than  I  deserved.  The 
same  day  Mason  made  an  admirable  reconnoissance  of  Mexi- 
calcingo. 

Our  spies  had  given  information  that  the  road  around  Chalco 
was  impracticable  for  our  trains,  and  in  consequence  thereof 
the  general  almost  made  up  his  mind  to  force  Mexicalcingo, 
and  at  that  point  and  westward,  fight  the  great  battle  of  the 
war.  He,  however,  determined  to  wait  one  day  for  additional 
information. 

Worth,  who  had  now  come  up,  was  sent  to  Chalco,  and  a 
column  under  the  orders  of  Colonel  Duncan  reconnoitred  the 
road  around  the  lakes.  Our  spies  were  found  to  have  given 
wrong  information,  and  the  road,  though  bad,  was  found  to  be 
practicable.  That  same  evening  General  Scott,  with  the  whole 
field  before  him,  determined  to  move  around  Chalco,  and 
ordered  the  movement  to  commence  on  the  morrow. 

The  prompt  advance  of  Twiggs  to  Ayotla,  the  brigade  of 
dragoons  of  the  famous  Colonel  Harney  two  miles  farther  in 
advance,  and  the  brilliant  reconnoissances  of  the  two  succeed- 
ing days  impressed  the  enemy  with  the  belief  that  the  Penon 
was  to  be  attacked,  and  they  lost  no  time  in  filling  the  place 
with  troops,  and  putting  in  position  formidable  batteries  of 
nearly  forty  guns. 

In  the  movement  around  the  lakes  Worth  was  in  the 
advance,  followed  by  Pillow,  Quitman,  and  Twiggs.  The  road 
was  exceedingly  bad  and  narrow,  in  many  places  a  perfect 


MARCH  AROUND  THE  LAKES  191 

defile,  obstructed  by  cuts,  stones  from  the  hills  in  some  cases 
formed  into  walls,  and  requiring  great  patience,  energy,  and 
perseverance  for  the  passage  of  the  trains. 

The  third  day  Worth  reached  San  Augustin,  General  Scott 
and  staff  resting  at  Xochimilco  with  the  divisions  of  Pillow, 
Quitman,  and  Twiggs  respectively  some  five  and  ten  miles  in 
rear ;  no  obstruction  of  moment  occurring  either  in  front  or 
rear,  unless  we  except  a  demonstration  of  a  large  force  of 
lancers  on  the  movement  of  General  Twiggs's  division  from 
Ayotla,  a  demonstration  brought  speedily  to  a  close  by  the 
opening  of  Taylor's  battery. 

Early  the  next  morning,  Wednesday,  August  18,  Scott 
joined  Worth ;  developed  his  general  plan  of  attack,  and  or- 
dered the  engineers  immediately  to  make  vigorous  reconnois- 
sances  of  the  position  and  force  of  the  enemy.  He  remarked, 
"  To-day  the  enemy  may  feel  us,  to-morrow  we  must  feel  him." 

Accordingly  two  reconnoissances  were  made,  —  one,  of  the 
position  of  San  Antonio,  three  miles  from  San  Augustin,  on 
the  great  southern  road  to  Mexico,  conducted  by  Major  Smith ; 
the  other,  of  the  road  to  San  Angel,  turning  the  position  of  San 
Antonio,  and  bringing  us  to  the  next  great  and  adjacent  cause- 
way to  the  west.  This  latter  reconnoissance  was  conducted  by 
Captain  Lee. 

The  first  reconnoissance  was  supported  by  the  whole  of 
Worth's  division.  Captain  Mason  had  charge  of  one  party,  I 
had  charge  of  the  other.  Whilst  the  whole  party  of  engineer 
officers  with  a  portion  of  the  escort  were  examining  the  position 
of  San  Antonio  within  twelve  hundred  yards  of  its  guns,  and 
in  the  causeway  itself,  the  enemy  discharged  his  battery  of  two 
large  brass  16-pounders,  blowing  to  pieces  the  body  of  the  gal- 
lant Captain  Thornton,  commanding  the  escort,  and  severely 
wounding  an  interpreter.  The  second  reconnoitring  party 
(that  of  Captain  Lee)  were  brought  into  pretty  close  contact 
with  a  body  of  the  enemy,  whom  they  completely  dispersed 
without  any  loss.  Thus,  the  enemy  felt  us  the  first  day.  Pil- 
low and  Quitman  had  now  come  up  to  San  Augustin  (ten 
miles  from  Mexico),  and  Twiggs  to  Xochimilco,  four  miles  in 
rear. 

It  was  determined  to  move  the  main  body  on  San  Angel, 


192  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

"Worth  remaining  in  front  of  San  Antonio,  and  by  a  vigorous 
combined  movement  forcing  this  position  and  advancing  upon 
Tacubaya. 

Accordingly,  on  Thursday  Pillow  and  Twiggs  were  pushed 
forward  over  a  most  difficult  road,  requiring  much  labor  to  make 
it  practicable  for  field-guns,  and  in  full  view  of  a  large  force 
of  the  enemy,  who,  divining  our  intentions  from  the  recon- 
noissance  of  Wednesday,  had  intrenched  himself  in  a  strong 
position,  barring  our  passage.  As  our  troops  approached,  they 
were  brought  gallantly  into  action.  Callender's  howitzer  bat- 
tery was  advanced  to  a  very  exposed  position  for  the  temporary 
purpose  of  driving  in  a  picket,  was  not  withdrawn  in  time,  and, 
exposed  to  a  formidable  battery  of  twelve  guns,  was  entirely 
cut  up,  its  gallant  commander  receiving  severe  wounds  in  both 
legs.  Magruder's  battery  of  12-pounders  was  in  like  manner 
advanced  and  cut  up.  These  batteries  were  supported  by 
Smith's  brigade  on  the  left,  and  the  9th  infantry  on  the  right. 
The  9th  infantry  I  led  across  an  open  field,  exposed  to  the 
enemy's  grape,  without  the  loss  of  a  man.  They  advanced  to 
a  strong  position  in  a  ravine,  which  they  maintained  till  dark. 

Riley's  brigade  and  the  greater  portion  of  Pillow's  division 
were  pushed  forward  against  the  enemy's  right  to  cut  him  off 
from  his  reserves,  and  by  a  vigorous  charge  take  him  in  flank 
and  hurl  him  into  the  gorges  of  the  mountains. 

The  whole  field  of  approach  was  a  perfect  honeycomb  of  lava 
projections,  entirely  impracticable  for  horse  and  difficult  for 
foot.  Nothing  was  known  of  the  ground.  All  the  troops  ad- 
vanced with  difficulty.  That  intrepid  veteran,  Riley,  with  his 
gallant  brigade,  pushed  forward  and  encountered  the  enemy's 
lancers  in  large  force,  repulsing  them  in  successive  charges. 
He  organized  his  brigade  to  charge  the  battery,  but  felt  it  his 
duty  to  await  orders  and  support. 

Smith,  somewhat  late  in  the  day  withdrawn  from  the  right, 
reached  a  village  on  the  left  of  the  enemy's  position,  to  which 
Riley  had  withdrawn,  and  was  reinforced  by  the  greater  portion 
of  Shields's  and  a  portion  of  Pierce's  brigade.  An  attack 
under  the  direction  of  Smith  was  organized,  but  could  not  be 
executed  in  consequence  of  the  gathering  shadows  of  the  night. 

At  this  moment,  all  offensive  operations  on  our  side  having 


CONTRERAS  193 

ceased  and  no  impression  made  on  the  enemy's  line,  their 
reserves  coming  up  in  great  force  and  bringing  with  them 
additional  guns,  cheer  on  cheer  rose  from  their  whole  line, 
whilst  on  our  part  there  was  much  gloom  and  despondency. 
Our  commands  were  much  scattered,  our  batteries  had  become 
disabled,  and  every  one  was  overcome  with  the  fatigues  of  the 
day.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  day  I  was  reconnoitring 
in  the  advanced  position  of  the  9th  infantry,  and,  not  knowing 
the  progress  of  the  day  in  other  parts  of  the  field,  returned  to 
the  rear  for  orders.  I  found  General  Pillow,  who  seemed  some- 
what perplexed  with  the  posture  of  affairs,  and  gave  me  no 
orders  till  dark  was  coming  on.  I  endeavored  to  find  my  way 
back,  but  could  not  succeed.  I  was  so  entirely  exhausted  that 
it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  I  could  drag  one  foot 
after  the  other.  Finally  I  fell  upon  a  small  party  of  rifles  and 
9th  infantry,  led  by  Lieutenant  Foster,  of  the  engineers,  who 
were  making  good  their  retreat  from  a  house  somewhat  higher 
up  on  the  same  stream  with  the  position  of  the  9th  infantry, 
and  from  which  they  had  been  expelled  by  a  whole  regiment  of 
the  enemy.  On  hailing  the  party,  Foster  recognized  my  voice, 
and  I  concluded  to  return  with  him,  but  so  entirely  worn  down 
that  I  required  his  support.  We  made  our  way  with  great 
difficulty,  occasionally  meeting  little  parties  of  soldiers  seeking 
their  commands.  It  had  already  commenced  raining.  On 
passing  near  the  place  where  I  left  my  horse,  I  could  not  find 
him,  and  was  obliged  to  pursue  my  way  on  foot.  At  length  we 
reached  some  dragoons  near  the  foot  of  a  hill,  where  General 
Scott  had  placed  himself  to  observe  the  field,  and  there  learned 
that  he  had  left  half  an  hour  before  for  San  Augustin,  three 
miles  distant.  I  inquired  for  my  horse,  but  could  not  find  him. 
Foster  kindly  lent  me  his,  and  after  waiting  some  half  an  hour 
I  set  out  on  my  return  to  San  Augustin  in  company  with 
Captain  Sibley's  troop  of  dragoons. 

On  my  way  back  my  feelings  were  not  desponding,  but  I  was 
sad.  The  9th  infantry,  called  the  New  England  regiment,  who 
had  gallantly  followed  my  lead,  and  had  occupied  for  hours 
an  exposed  position,  I  had  not  succeeded  in  bringing  back  to 
the  place  indicated  by  the  general.  I  felt  deeply  my  physical 
inability  to  support  long-continued  exertion.     It  seemed  to  me 


194  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

that  I  had  abandoned  a  body  of  men  who  were  relying  on  me. 
The  regiment  had  acted  nobly,  and  none  more  so  than  Pitman, 
acting  as  major.     He  was  cool  and  intrepid  throughout. 

On  my  way  home  the  rain  poured  in  torrents  much  of  the 
time.  I  overtook  my  intrepid  friend  Callender,  whom  some 
men  of  his  company  were  carrying  home  on  a  litter.  He 
seemed  to  be  comfortable,  and  is  now  rapidly  recovering  from 
his  wound. 

On  reaching  my  quarters,  getting  some  supper,  and  changing 
my  clothes,  I  went  to  see  General  Scott.  He  was  surrounded 
by  his  personal  staff,  and  was  attentively  listening  to  Captain 
Lee's  account  of  the  state  of  the  field.  Soon  after,  General 
Pillow  and  General  Twiggs  entered  the  room.  Twiggs  is  a 
gray-haired  veteran  of  sixty,  large  in  person,  of  rather  blunt 
address,  and  of  little  advantages  of  education,  but  possessing 
in  an  eminent  degree  decision  of  character,  great  sagacity  as 
to  men  and  events,  and  an  aptitude  for  labor.  He  has  the 
most  splendid  division  in  the  service,  the  fruit  in  great  measure 
of  his  own  unwearied  exertions.  Captain  Lee  is  an  officer  of 
engineers  to  whom  I  have  before  alluded,  and  one  of  my  mess- 
mates. He  is  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  men  in  the  service. 
In  the  very  prime  of  manhood,  of  remarkable  presence  and 
address,  perhaps  the  most  manly  and  striking  officer  in  the 
service,  of  great  grace  of  manner  and  great  personal  beauty, 
he  has  established  an  enduring  reputation.  His  power  of 
enduring  fatigue  is  extraordinary,  and  his  strength  of  judgment 
and  perfect  balance  are  conspicuous.  For  counsel,  General 
Scott  relies  more  upon  him  than  any  other  man  in  the  service. 

I  never  shall  forget  that  evening,  —  Captain  Lee  in  calm, 
even,  well-weighed  words,  giving  a  full  view  of  the  state  of  our 
force,  suggesting  the  various  methods  of  reestablishing  affairs, 
and  proffering  his  own  services  and  exertions  to  carry  out  the 
views  of  the  general ;  Scott,  composed,  complacent,  weighing 
every  word  he  said,  finding  fault  with  no  one's  blunders,  and 
taking  in  all  cases  the  best  view  of  things,  indulging  in  no 
apprehensions,  and  exhibiting  entire  confidence  in  the  ultimate 
event.  At  length  General  Twiggs  and  Captain  Lee  returned 
to  the  battlefield  with  full  powers  to  retrieve  affairs  as  their 
best  judgment  should  dictate.     It  had  been  proposed  by  Gen- 


CONTRERAS  195 

eral  Smith,  one  of  Twiggs's  brigadiers,  to  make  a  night  attack 
upon  the  enemy's  position,  defended  by  twelve  guns  and  five 
thousand  of  their  best  troops.  Captain  Lee's  principal  object 
in  seeing  the  general  was  to  procure  his  sanction.  It  was  not 
denied.  On  returning  to  the  field,  all  arrangements  were  made 
to  carry  it  into  execution. 

My  dear  wife,  I  am  spinning  out  a  long  letter,  and  I  must  be 
more  brief.  This  night  attack,  in  consequence  of  rain  and  the 
difficult  nature  of  the  ground,  was  not  carried  into  execution  till 
dawn  of  day.  It  was  organized  by  General  Smith.  The  recon- 
noissance  of  the  route  was  made  in  the  night  by  my  friend 
Tower,  of  the  engineers.  The  principal  column  of  attack  con- 
sisted of  Riley's  brigade  led  by  Tower.  Two  other  columns 
were  pushed  in  the  same  general  direction,  one  of  which  was 
commanded  by  our  friend  Major  Dimick.  In  front  a  column 
was  formed  of  the  scattered  commands,  mostly  new  levies. 

Eiley's  column  pursued  its  way  over  slippery  and  uneven 
ground,  crossing  two  deep  ravines,  halting  from  time  to  time  to 
keep  the  command  together.  Finally  it  reached  the  brow  of  a 
hill  in  rear  of  the  enemy's  position,  and  was  formed  in  two  col- 
umns, just  as  the  coming  day  disclosed  them  to  the  enemy. 
Immediately  the  charge  was  ordered,  and  the  gallant  brigade 
made  its  terrible  charge,  ably  supported  by  the  other  columns. 
The  contest  was  brief  but  decisive.  In  fifteen  minutes  one 
thousand  dead  and  wounded  of  the  enemy  lay  on  the  field, 
nearly  a  thousand  more  were  taken  prisoners,  and  the  remain- 
der were  flying  in  all  directions.  Every  one  speaks  in  the  most 
exalted  terms  of  the  conduct  of  Tower.  Some  say  he  led  the 
brigade  and  did  the  whole  work. 

As  for  myself,  broken  down  the  evening  before,  greatly  in 
need  of  rest,  I  complied  with  the  advice  of  Major  Smith  and 
Captain  Lee  and  remained  in  town,  giving  directions  to  my 
servant  to  be  called  at  three,  in  order  that  I  might  return  to 
the  field  to  be  in  season  for  the  fight.  My  servant  did  not  wake 
me  till  five.  One  delay  after  another  occurred,  and  I  was  finally 
detained  by  General  Scott  to  conduct  to  the  field  a  brigade  of 
General  Worth's  command.  "We  started  and  had  got  half  way 
out,  when  information  came  of  the  brilliant  success  of  the  night 
attack,  and  the  brigade  was  ordered  back.    I  continued  my  way, 


196  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  finally  came  across  Tower  very  quietly  eating  his  breakfast 
in  company  with  Lieutenant  Beauregard  of  our  corps,  who  was 
also  conspicuous  in  the  same  attack.  I  rode  on,  passed  over  the 
battlefield,  reached  the  advance,  and  exchanged  greetings  with 
my  friends  of  the  9th  regiment,  who  had  felt  as  anxious  for  me 
as  I  had  for  them.  They  informed  me  that  they  had  withdrawn 
to  a  safe  place  about  nine  in  the  evening,  and  were  engaged  in 
the  night  attack.  My  friends  of  the  1st  artillery,  Major  Dim- 
ick,  Captains  Capron,  Burke,  etc.,  I  also  shook  warmly  by  the 
hand,  and  finally  rode  up  to  General  Twiggs.  I  congratulated 
him  on  the  brilliant  victory  achieved  by  his  command.  "  Gen- 
eral Smith  deserves  the  whole  credit,  but  it  was  my  division," 
was  his  reply. 

The  order  was  soon  given  to  advance  upon  the  San  Antonio 
road,  General  Twiggs  in  advance,  the  object  being  to  cause  the 
enemy  to  evacuate  it  and  open  the  way  for  the  advance  of 
Worth.  I  accompanied  the  advance.  We  soon  reached  the 
village  of  Coyoacan,  from  which  a  picket  of  about  two  hundred 
lancers  was  expelled.  There  we  halted  till  General  Scott  rode 
up.  He  proposed  to  wait  half  an  hour  to  reconnoitre,  deter- 
mine the  position  of  the  enemy,  and  the  proper  mode  of  attack. 
General  Worth  had  previously  received  orders  not  to  attack  the 
enemy  till  he  heard  the  fire  on  the  other  line. 

Calling  for  the  engineer  officers,  Captain  Lee  was  directed, 
after  examining  a  prisoner,  to  communicate  with  General  Worth 
at  San  Antonio,  and  I  went  to  the  steeple  of  the  church  to  use 
my  glass.  I  turned  it  upon  the  San  Antonio  road,  and  ob- 
served the  enemy  in  full  retreat,  the  causeway  for  more  than  a 
mile  being  filled  with  troops,  pack-mules,  and  baggage-wagons. 
I  immediately  reported  the  fact  to  General  Scott,  who  ordered 
Twiggs  to  advance,  and  directed  me  to  accompany  his  division. 
Twiggs  pushed  on,  and  I  went  forward  with  the  officers  of  the 
engineer  company  to  reconnoitre.  We  came  to  a  fork  of  a  road. 
I  took  to  the  right,  Lieutenant  McClellan  to  the  left.  Mine 
passed  directly  in  front  of  a  strong  building  (a  church),  occu- 
pied in  force  by  the  enemy ;  his  led  directly  to  the  building. 
At  a  little  distance  before  me  I  saw  the  enemy  in  retreat,  and 
we  took  one  prisoner,  who  informed  us  that  the  place  was  de- 
fended by  two  guns. 


CHURUBUSCO  197 

My  dear  wife,  perhaps  I  had  not  better  at  this  time  go  into 
the  details  of  the  most  terrible  fight  of  the  war,  which  now  com- 
menced. General  Twiggs  has  said  publicly  that  by  my  recon- 
noissance  and  efforts  it  was  brought  on,  as  regards  his  division. 
We  all  felt  the  strongest  determination  to  fight  the  enemy,  and 
put  him  to  a  perfect  rout.  At  all  events,  it  so  happened  that  I 
was  extremely  active  in  pushing  forward  columns  of  attack,  etc. 
Our  friend  Major  Dimick's  regiment  I  directed  to  its  position. 
So  with  Taylor's  battery.  General  Twiggs,  in  almost  every 
case,  agreed  to  my  suggestions.  By  my  efforts  and  those  of 
the  junior  engineer  officers,  the  troops  were  brought  under  fire 
and  the  battle  commenced. 

The  veteran  division  of  Twiggs,  already  engaged  in  two  hard- 
fought  battles,  the  desultory  and  galling  conflict  of  the  day  be- 
fore and  the  brilliant  victory  of  the  morning,  exposed  to  the 
rains  of  the  night,  and  the  whole  without  the  least  rest  from 
the  wearisome  march  around  Lake  Chalco,  came  gallantly  into 
action  against  the  enemy,  intrenched  in  a  position  of  remark- 
able strength,  —  a  bastioned  field-work  of  high  relief,  wet 
ditches,  armed  with  eight  guns,  some  of  large  calibre,  and  pro- 
tected by  a  church  converted  into  a  defensive  building  of  great 
strength.  Taylor,  whom  you  knew  in  Newport,  came  into 
action  in  most  gallant  style,  and  opened  his  fire  upon  the 
enemy,  driving  him  from  the  roof  of  the  building.  But  so  de- 
structive was  the  return  fire  of  the  enemy  behind  his  earthen 
breastworks  that  in  a  short  time  his  battery  was  cut  up,  and  he 
was  obliged  to  withdraw,  losing  many  men  and  horses,  and  two 
of  his  officers  were  wounded.  Lieutenant  Martin,  formerly 
stationed  in  Newport,  lost  his  arm.  Riley  opened  his  fire  with 
great  spirit  and  effect  against  the  left ;  Smith's  brigade,  headed 
by  our  gallant  engineer  company,  against  the  right.  Worth, 
hearing  our  fire,  hastened  up  his  command,  and  attacked  a 
strong  bastioned  field-work  on  the  great  San  Antonio  causeway, 
and  a  little  in  rear  of  the  work  attacked  by  Twiggs.  The  6th 
infantry  and  Duncan's  battery  were  conducted  directly  up  the 
causeway.  A  terrible  fire  of  grape  temporarily  checked  the 
advance  of  the  6th,  and  compelled  Duncan  to  put  his  battery 
under  cover.  An  attack  was  directed,  headed  by  the  2d  artil- 
lery, to  turn  the  left  of  the  position.     The  whole  command  of 


198  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Worth  was  rushed  to  the  attack,  not  in  the  most  orderly  man- 
ner, and  the  greatest  gallantry  was  displayed  by  both  officers 
and  men.  A  continued  blaze  of  fire  proceeded  from  the  ex- 
tended line  of  the  enemy,  resting  on  the  two  field-works,  and 
was  returned  with  great  spirit  by  both  Twiggs  and  Worth.  The 
roar  of  battle  did  not  for  a  moment  cease,  and  at  times  the 
stoutest  hearts  would  quail. 

In  the  mean  time  the  brigades  of  Shields  and  Pierce,  con- 
ducted by  the  intrepid  Captain  Lee,  were  directed  around  the 
enemy's  right  to  get  into  his  rear  and  cut  off  his  retreat.  The 
enemy  appeared  in  such  great  force  that  it  was  with  the  greatest 
difficulty  that  the  command  could  be  brought  to  the  attack. 
The  gallant  Colonel  Butler,  leading  most  nobly  the  Palmetto 
regiment,  was  shot  dead,  and  Lieutenant-Colonel  Dickinson  was 
wounded.  After  exceeding  effort  they  were  made  to  charge 
the  enemy,  the  causeway  was  gained,  and  his  retreat  cut  off. 
In  this  action  both  Shields  and  Pierce  were  conspicuous  for 
their  gallantry,  and  the  latter  was  wounded. 

Previous  to  the  attack  of  Worth,  the  work  attacked  by 
Twiggs  had  been  nearly  silenced  by  the  destructive  fire  of  his 
two  gallant  brigades,  the  gunners  were  shot  down,  and  the  guns 
were  served  only  at  intervals.  Still  the  church  held  out,  and 
the  line  in  rear  was  not  touched.  Worth,  after  one  repulse  and 
at  heavy  loss,  took  by  assault  the  work  on  the  causeway,  the 
guns  of  which,  together  with  two  from  Duncan's  battery,  were 
opened  upon  the  work  attacked  by  Twiggs.  Shields  and  Pierce 
had  now  cut  the  causeway.  Seeing  no  hope  of  escape,  the  white 
flag  was  hung  out,  and  immediately  the  division  of  Twiggs 
occupied  the  work,  taking  over  one  thousand  prisoners,  of  whom 
three  were  general  officers. 

The  panic  was  now  universal.  Our  troops  pushed  forward 
on  the  great  causeway,  the  dragoons  in  hot  pursuit,  sabring 
the  enemy  in  their  path.  They  fled  in  all  directions.  The  gal- 
lant Captain  Kearny  charged  up  almost  to  the  very  walls  of 
the  city,  receiving  a  severe  wound  in  the  arm,  which  rendered 
its  amputation  necessary. 

This  is  a  meagre  account  of  this  terrible  fight,  more  protracted 
and  severe  than  anything  seen  at  the  Resaca,  at  Monterey,  or 
the  Cerro  Gordo.      Our  loss  is  great,  some  forty  officers  in 


CHURUBUSCO  199 

killed  and  wounded,  and  over  seven  hundred  rank  and  file ; 
nearly  half  the  officers  of  the  1st  artillery  were  killed  or 
wounded.  Major  Diinick  commanded  the  regiment  in  three 
battles  and  escaped  without  a  wound. 

As  I  have  before  said,  I  was  on  duty  with  the  division  of 
Twiggs.  This  veteran  was  greatly  exposed  during  the  whole 
contest,  and  was  conspicuous  for  his  coolness  and  judgment. 
General  Scott  himself  was  wounded.  The  chief  engineer, 
Major  Smith,  was  also  conspicuous  for  gallantry  and  good  con- 
duct. Our  gallant  engineer  company  nobly  sustained  its  repu- 
tation as  the  first  company  in  the  service.  At  the  close  of  the 
action  General  Scott  rode  over  the  whole  field,  speaking  words 
of  encouragement  to  the  wounded,  and  addressing  the  several 
regiments  as  he  passed  them.  On  all  sides  he  was  received 
with  the  greatest  enthusiasm.  His  words  were  the  eloquence 
of  the  heart,  and  told  with  great  effect. 

General  Scott  and  staff  returned  to  San  Augustin,  some  five 
miles  from  the  battlefield,  to  pass  the  night.  We  were  all 
greatly  in  need  of  rest.  To  our  great  satisfaction,  on  compar- 
ing notes  it  was  found  that  not  a  single  engineer  officer  had 
been  touched,  and  only  three  soldiers  of  the  company  wounded. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  fatigues  of  the  day,  I  slept  little 
that  night.  The  battlefield  was  before  me  with  its  scenes  of 
terror  and  of  blood.  The  gallant  officers  who  fell  haunted  me. 
The  loss  of  human  life  was  appalling.  I  reflected  that  with  less 
precipitation  the  works  could  have  been  carried  with  much  less 
loss.  I  was  precipitate  like  the  rest,  and  felt  in  a  measure  cul- 
pable. 

The  next  morning,  after  issuing  the  proper  orders  for  the 
movements  of  the  troops,  —  orders  given  verbally  from  his  horse 
to  his  aides,  and  with  admirable  precision,  —  General  Scott  pro- 
ceeded to  the  village  of  Coyoacan,  and  there  met  a  white  flag 
from  the  city.  We  then  learned  that  consternation  sat  on  that 
devoted  place,  and  that  her  army  of  twenty-six  thousand  to 
thirty-two  thousand  men  had  become  reduced  to  four  thousand 
indifferent  troops.  The  result  of  the  white  flag  was  the  appoint- 
ment of  commissioners  to  treat  of  an  armistice.  This  morning 
(Monday)  the  articles  were  duly  signed,  and  there  is  now  every 
prospect  that  the  war  has  come  to  a  close.     The  armistice  is 


200  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

made  by  authority  of  the  supreme  government,  and  its  avowed 
object  is  to  negotiate  a  treaty  of  peace.  This  armistice  provides 
generally  that  the  two  parties  shall  remain  as  they  are.  Hos- 
tilities are  to  cease  within  a  circuit  of  twenty-eight  leagues  of 
the  city,  the  guerrillas  are  to  be  withdrawn  from  the  national 
road,  and  our  communications  are  to  be  free  with  Vera  Cruz. 

Monday  evening.  I  have  sad  news  to-day.  The  first  day  of 
the  armistice  the  Mexicans  have  commenced  trifling  with  us. 
The  armistice  provided  that  our  army  should  draw  supplies 
from  the  city,  and  in  consequence  we  commenced  drawing  specie 
in  exchange  for  drafts.  The  Mexicans  denied  this  construction 
of  the  article,  and  in  consequence,  at  three  o'clock,  General 
Scott  gave  notice  of  the  termination  of  the  armistice  (the  ar- 
ticles guarantee  forty-eight  hours'  notice).  The  Mexicans  dare 
not  again  invoke  the  power  of  our  arms,  and  will  yield  the 
point.     But  it  looks  bad. 

Tuesday,  August  24.  The  commissioners  have  met  again 
to-day,  and  the  articles  have  been  modified  to  meet  General 
Scott's  views. 

Thursday,  August  26.  Yesterday  Santa  Anna  issued  a  pro- 
clamation referring  to  his  great  exertions  to  defend  his  country, 
and  to  the  circumstances  of  the  present  crisis,  and  stating  his 
conviction  that  an  honorable  peace  would  promote  the  best 
interests  of  his  country.  Accordingly  to-day  commissioners  to 
negotiate  a  treaty  of  peace  were  appointed  on  his  part,  who  are 
to  meet  our  commissioner,  Mr.  Trist,  to-morrow. 

Friday,  August  27.  This  has  been  a  white  day  for  me.  The 
archbishop's  palace  is  a  very  good  place  for  the  general  and  his 
personal  staff.  It  has  a  splendid  view  from  its  top.  But  since 
our  arrival  it  has  been  crowded  with  the  general  staff  and  with 
a  company  of  dragoons.  The  courtyard  was  filled  with  horses, 
and  the  whole  place  was  becoming  filthy  in  the  extreme.  The 
chief  engineer,  Major  Smith,  and  myself  occupied  a  small, 
dirty  room,  which  we  used  for  a  sleeping-room,  an  eating-room, 
and  an  office.  Accordingly  we  determined  to  seek  other  quar- 
ters. After  much  inquiry,  I  fell  to-day  upon  a  splendid  suite 
of  apartments  belonging  to  a  judge  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  which 
I  have  secured,  and  am  now  occupying  with  Major  Smith.  We 
have  a  large  parlor,  dining-room,  two  large  sleeping-rooms,  a 


TACUBAYA  201 

spacious  kitchen,  stable,  and  flower  garden.  As  throughout  all 
Mexico,  our  apartments  extend  to  the  rear,  looking  upon  an 
open  court,  with  one  apartment  only  on  the  street.  The  house 
is  of  one  story,  and  each  window  extends  to  the  floor  and  opens 
upon  the  court.  We  feel  quite  comfortable  in  our  new  home. 
The  corresponding  suite  of  apartments  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  court  is  occupied  by  the  judge's  clerks  and  law  students. 
We  have  been  much  indebted  in  securing  these  apartments  to 
the  good  offices  of  Mr.  Jameson,  a  Scotch  merchant  of  wealth 
in  the  City  of  Mexico,  who  resides  in  Tacubaya.  He  is  our 
next-door  neighbor,  and  will  make  a  most  pleasant  acquaint- 
ance. Just  opposite  us,  he  is  now  building  a  most  elegant 
mansion  in  the  midst  of  a  garden  laid  out  in  the  English  style. 
Last  evening  Mason  and  myself  took  a  walk  to  the  top  of 
an  eminence  in  rear  of  the  palace,  where  we  had  a  most  beau- 
tiful view  of  the  City  of  Mexico  and  its  neighboring  lakes. 
We  both  thought  of  Newport,  and  of  the  thousand  delightful 
recollections  that  cluster  around  it.  Mason  is  in  fine  health, 
and  has  greatly  distinguished  himself  in  the  recent  operations. 
We  both  hope  to  see  Newport  before  the  close  of  the  year. 

Saturday,  August  28.  To-day  I  have  for  once  felt  entirely 
recovered  from  the  fatigues  of  the  recent  operations  in  the  val- 
ley, and  have  twice  mounted  my  horse,  and  to-morrow  I  think 
of  going  to  the  village  of  Mixcoac,  some  two  and  a  half  miles 
from  this  place,  where  Pillow's  division  is  quartered.  Captain 
Pitman  is  there  with  the  9th  infantry.  The  colonel  of  this 
regiment,  Ransom,  is  a  very  fine  officer.  I  saw  General  Pierce 
to-day.  He  was  not  recovered  from  the  effects  of  a  fall  from 
his  horse  on  the  battle-ground  of  the  19th  instant,  but  was  able 
to  be  about.  He  was  not  wounded,  as  I  have  before  written. 
He  is  making  a  fine  impression  upon  the  whole  service. 

The  casualties  are  much  higher  than  any  one  anticipated,  — 
over  one  thousand  killed  and  wounded  (about  1060).  General 
Pierce's  command  suffered  to  the  extent  of  about  160  ;  Gen- 
eral Cadwallader's,  about  100  ;  General  Shields's,  200  ;  Gen- 
eral Worth's,  336 ;  General  Twiggs's,  260. 


CHAPTER  XI 

MOLINO   DEL  KEY. CHAPULTEPEC. CAPTURE  OF  CITY 

OF  MEXICO. RETURN  TO  UNITED  STATES 

The  diary  continues  as  follows :  — 

Saturday,  August  21.  General  Scott  and  staff  left 
San  Augustin  at  eight  o'clock ;  on  his  way  to  Coyoacan, 
he  gave  orders  that  Worth  should  move  on  Tacubaya, 
Pillow  on  Mixcoac,  and  Twiggs  on  San  Angel ;  and  at 
Coyoacan,  he  was  met  by  commissioners  from  the  city 
asking  for  a  suspension  of  arms.  It  was  granted  as  pre- 
liminary to  an  armistice  to  be  concluded  for  the  express 
purpose  of  negotiating  a  peace,  and  commissioners  were 
to  meet  and  adjust  the  terms  of  the  armistice.  The  gen- 
eral proceeded  with  his  staff,  and  took  up  quarters  in  the 
bishop's  palace,  on  the  slope  ascending  westward  from 
Tacubaya,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Chapultepec. 
This  palace  is  a  favorite  resort  of  Santa  Anna,  and 
affords  an  extended  view  of  the  whole  valley  of  Mexico. 

Sunday,  August  22.  Generals  Quitman,  Smith,  and 
Pierce,  American  commissioners,  met  the  Mexican  com- 
missioners, Villamil  and  Quijano,  to  adjust  the  terms  of 
the  armistice.  After  sitting  through  the  night  of  the 
22d  and  23d,  the  instrument  was  perfected,  and  signed 
by  General  Scott  and  President  Santa  Anna.  It  pro- 
vided generally  that  the  belligerents  should  remain  as 
they  were ;  that  hostilities  should  cease  within  a  circuit 
of  thirty  leagues ;  that  reinforcements  to  the  American 
army  should  stop  at  Puebla;  that  there  should  be  no 
interruption  to  supplies  coming  to  the  army  from  the 


MOLINO  DEL  KEY  203 

city ;  and  that  the  American  army  should  remain  without 
the  city. 

This  armistice  during  the  two  or  three  subsequent 
days  occasioned  considerable  discussion.  The  army  gen- 
erally felt  a  strong  desire  to  enter  the  city  as  conquerors, 
and  the  foreigners  of  the  city,  somewhat  numerous,  fos- 
tered this  feeling.  It  was  generally  agreed,  however, 
by  the  most  intelligent  and  reflecting,  that  General  Scott 
had  pursued  a  wise  course.  Our  object  was  not  to 
make  a  conquest,  but  to  adjust  the  questions  in  dispute 
by  a  definite  treaty  of  peace.  We  ought,  therefore,  to 
do  nothing  needlessly  to  humiliate  them.  Moreover,  our 
entering  the  city  would  disperse  the  government,  and 
there  would  be  danger  that  the  country  would  become 
the  prey  of  factions,  and  that  no  party  would  have  suf- 
ficient power  to  enter  into  treaty  with.  Such  were  the 
views  of  our  commissioner,  Mr.  Trist. 

August  23-September  1.  During  these  thirteen  days 
Commissioners  Herrera  and  Mora,  on  the  part  of  the 
Mexican  government,  have  met  Mr.  Trist  several  times 
to  negotiate  the  treaty.  Thus  far  nothing  has  trans- 
pired to  afford  reasonable  apprehension  that  hostilities 
will  again  be  resumed.  The  appointment  of  the  prin- 
cipal men  of  the  peace  party,  Santa  Anna's  opponents, 
strengthens  this  belief.  His  own  proclamation  announ- 
cing the  armistice  strongly  advocates  peace.  It  is  believed 
that,  were  Santa  Anna  firmly  seated  in  power,  the  whole 
thing  could  be  arranged  in  thirty  days.  Unfortunately, 
he  depends  almost  entirely  upon  his  army.  At  this  very 
moment  clouds  are  overshadowing  the  heavens  in  all 
directions :  Almonte  and  Valencia  have  formed  a  coali- 
tion to  the  west ;  Paredes  has  returned  from  exile,  and  is 
now  said  to  be  in  the  neighborhood  of  Puebla ;  Alvarez 
is  somewhere  to  the  north ;  and  a  fourth  faction  is  mak- 
ing head  towards  the  south. 


204  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

The  Mexicans  are  great  sticklers  for  forms,  and,  since 
the  conclusion  of  the  armistice,  they  have  sent  back 
our  trains  several  times  in  consequence  of  some  little 
ceremony  having  been  omitted.  The  first  train  that 
entered  the  city  was  stoned  by  the  populace,  and  there 
was  some  little  difficulty  experienced  in  getting  the  train 
out  in  safety.  An  apology  was  immediately  made  for 
the  affront.  But  it  was  made  the  ground  for  suggesting 
that,  for  the  safety  of  our  people,  the  wagons  should  be 
loaded  outside,  and  that  our  people  should  not  enter  the 
city.  At  this  very  moment  there  is  no  communication 
between  the  city  and  the  residents  of  the  villages  occupied 
by  our  army. 

I  believe  that  with  patience  and  firmness  on  our  part, 
and  the  being  content  with  the  cession  of  New  Mexico 
and  New  California,  paying  therefor  an  ample  indemnity 
in  money,  we  shall  get  peace.  We  may  consider  the 
relinquishment  of  the  Mexican  claims  to  the  territory 
east  of  the  Rio  Grande  as  the  indemnity  for  the  expenses 
of  the  war. 

September  6,  7.  All  our  hopes  have  been  doomed  to 
disappointment.  General  Scott,  in  consequence  of  the 
violation  of  the  third  and  seventh  articles  of  the  armis- 
tice on  the  part  of  the  Mexicans,  terminated  the  armistice 
to-day  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  the  ball  is  to  be  reopened. 
God  grant  that  a  similar  sacrifice  may  not  be  required  of 
us  as  at  Churubusco  ! 

MOLINO    DEL    KEY.1 

September  8.  At  daybreak  an  attack  was  made  on 
the  enemy's  position  at  the  foundry,  and  after  a  most 

1  The  hill  of  Chapultepec,  famed  as  the  ancient  country-seat  of  the 
Montezumas,  rose  some  two  miles  outside  the  city,  and  was  crowned  by  a 
strong  castle.  An  extensive  grove  of  huge  and  hoary  cypresses  clothed  its 
slopes  and  stretched  half  a  mile  westward,  the  whole  surrounded  by  a  solid 
wall  of  masonry.     Molino  del  Key,  the  King's  Mill,  a  group  of  stone  build- 


MOLINO  DEL  KEY  205 

terrific  engagement  of  two  hours  the  position  was  carried, 
but  with  a  loss  of  six  hundred  killed  and  wounded  in 
Worth's  division  alone.  In  addition  to  his  command, 
Cadwallader's  brigade  was  engaged.  The  enemy  was  in 
a  position  of  immense  strength,  their  left  resting  on  Cha- 
pultepec  and  the  foundry,  their  right  on  a  ravine,  a  con- 
tinuous breastwork  covering  their  front. 

The  attack  was  opened  by  two  24-pounders  on  the 
walls  of  the  foundry,  upon  which  an  assaulting  column 
of  five  hundred  men  picked  from  Worth's  division, 
organized  in  companies  of  one  hundred  men  and  com- 
manded by  Major  Wright,  deployed  and  advanced  upon 
the  enemy's  line.  The  right,  led  by  Lieutenant  Foster 
with  ten  sappers  and  ten  pioneers  carrying  crowbars  and 
axes,  moved  on  the  foundry;  the  left,  led  by  Captain 
Mason,  on  the  enemy's  battery  of  four  guns.  The 
enemy  were  driven  from  their  lines,  but  immediately 
retook  them,  every  officer  of  the  assaulting  column  being 
killed  or  wounded  save  two.  Captain  Mason  had  a  flesh 
wound  in  the  thigh  ;  Lieutenant  Foster  one  in  the  leg, 
breaking  the  bone.  The  right  of  the  assaulting  column 
having  maintained  its  position  under  cover  of  the  foun- 
dry, the  reserves  of  Garland  and  Clarke  were  promptly 
brought  up,  and  after  a  desperate  conflict  the  enemy  was 
driven  to  the  rear  of  Chapultepec,  and  the  whole  position 
fell  into  our  hands. 

Drum's  battery  of  two  6-pounders  supported  Garland 
on  the  right,  and  with  two  rounds  of  canister  drove  the 
enemy  from  his  battery.  It  was  then  pushed  forward 
three  hundred  yards  beyond  support,  opening  its  fire  and 
driving   the  enemy  before  it,  but  was  finally  recalled. 

ings,  stood  at  the  foot  of  the  grove,  and  the  Mexican  line  of  defenses 
extended  thence  to  a  strong  work,  the  Casa  Mata,  and  far  beyond  it.  It 
was  reported  that  the  enemy  had  a  gun  foundry  in  Molino,  and  General 
Scott  determined  to  capture  it. 


206  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Duncan  on  the  left  supported  Clarke's  brigade,  and  drove 
the  enemy,  who  was  advancing,  back  to  and  out  of  the 
right  of  his  lines.  The  dragoons  under  Major  Sumner 
turned  the  right  flank,  causing  a  large  body  of  lancers 
to  retire  under  cover  of  a  village  to  the  left. 

I  reconnoitred  the  ground  to  our  left,  and  estimated 
the  lancers  to  be  from  one  to  two  thousand. 

The  attack  had  simply  for  its  object  the  destruction  of 
the  foundry  (which  did  not  exist ;  at  least,  no  boring  ap- 
paratus or  furnaces  could  be  found),  and  the  position  was 
finally  abandoned.  The  battle  was  entirely  without  re- 
sults ;  two  or  three  additional  victories  of  the  same  kind 
would  annihilate  our  army.  It  has  filled  all  hearts  with 
sadness.  Colonel  Scott,  Captain  Merrill,  Captain  Ayres, 
Captain  Armstrong,  and  others  have  fallen.  Among 
those  most  lamented  is  the  gallant  Colonel  Graham,  who 
fell  gallantly  leading  the  11th  regiment  to  the  charge. 
Lieutenant  Burwell,  wounded  in  the  assault,  was  barba- 
rously murdered  by  the  enemy  by  a  lance  in  the  head. 

Duncan's  efficiency  was  diminished  in  consequence  of 
the  precipitate  charge  of  Clarke's  brigade  on  the  Casa 
Mata,  masking  his  fire.  A  well-directed  fire  of  round- 
shot  from  his  battery  would  have  driven  the  enemy  from 
that  strong  position,  and  thus  saved  us  many  valuable 
lives  sacrificed  in  taking  it  by  the  bayonet.  There  was 
great  difficulty  in  reconnoitring  the  position  without 
bringing  on  a  general  action.  More  guns  should  have 
been  brought  into  action.  It  was  more  a  case  for  artil- 
lery than  for  the  bayonet.  An  attempt  should  have  been 
made  to  reconnoitre  the  enemy's  right,  with  a  view  of 
sending  round  a  column  and  taking  his  line  in  flank  and 
rear. 

The  loss  to  Worth's  division  was  greater  in  this  action 
than  the  English  loss  at  the  assault  of  Badajos. 

On  the  8th,  9th,  10th,  and  11th,  in  consequence  of  the 


CHAPULTEPEC  207 

occupation  of  the  church  of  Piedad  by  our  troops,  and 
the  pushing  of  the  reconnoissances  in  that  direction,  the 
enemy  was  exceedingly  active  in  fortifying  that  front  of 
the  city  from  the  gate  of  Belen  to  that  of  Las  Vegas,  and 
even  prepared  cuts  in  the  road  leading  to  Istacalco  on  the 
canal.  On  the  10th  they  had  a  very  respectable  battery 
in  position,  and  were  in  expectation  that  the  attack  would 
be  made  in  that  direction. 

CHAPULTEPEC. 

At  a  council  of  war  at  La  Piedad  on  the  11th,  it  was 
determined  to  establish  batteries  against  Chapultepec,  and 
carry  it  by  assault,  then  to  operate  against  the  city  as 
circumstances  should  dictate.  This  was  General  Scott's 
proposition,  and  was  concurred  in  generally  by  the  offi- 
cers present  at  the  council.  Accordingly,  on  the  night 
of  the  llth-12th  batteries  were  commenced,  one  for  two 
18-pounders  and  one  8-inch  howitzer  on  the  road  leading 
to  Chapultepec,  and  one  for  one  24-pounder  and  one 
8-inch  howitzer  near  the  foundry.  These  batteries  opened 
their  fire  about  eight  a.  m.  on  the  12th,  Quitman's  divi- 
sion supporting  on  the  right,  Pillow's  on  the  left.  About 
2.30  p.  m.  a  third  battery,  one  18-pounder,  one  8-inch 
howitzer,  and  one  mortar,  was  prepared  also  near  the 
foundry. 

The  fire  was  returned  with  some  spirit,  and  about 
eight  a.  m.  on  the  13th  the  order  was  given  to  commence 
the  assault. 

Chapultepec  stands  boldly  out  two  miles  from  the  City 
of  Mexico,  an  eminence  two  hundred  feet  high,  having  on 
its  summit  an  irregular  work  with  a  stone  scarp  ten  feet 
high,  the  whole  defended  by  the  strong  stone  building 
used  as  a  military  college. 

At  the  southwestern  foot  of  the  height  is  the  vener- 
able cypress  grove  of  the  age  of  Montezuma,  extending 


208  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

to  within  four  hundred  yards  of  the  mill  whence  Pillow 
was  to  direct  the  assault  of  his  command.  At  its  eastern 
base  was  a  formidable  battery  sweeping  the  causeway  of 
approach  in  the  direction  of  Quitman's  command,  the 
aqueduct  and  stone  buildings  affording  cover  to  troops. 

It  was  known,  from  a  daring  reconnoissance  made  by 
General  Quitman  on  the  afternoon  of  the  12th,  that  the 
enemy  were  in  the  occupancy  of  this  base  of  Chapultepec, 
five  thousand  strong. 

Quitman,  with  a  select  storming  party  from  Twiggs's 
division  two  hundred  and  fifty  strong,  commanded  by 
Captain  Casey  and  supported  by  Smith's  brigade,  was  to 
attack  on  the  right,  carrying  the  formidable  position  re- 
connoitred by  him  on  the  12th,  and  thence  sweeping  up 
the  hill  to  enter  the  citadel  itself.  Pillow,  supported  by 
Worth's  whole  division  with  a  select  storming  party  from 
that  division,  headed  by  the  gallant  Captain  McKensie,  2d 
artillery,  was  to  break  through  the  cypress  grove,  charge 
up  the  hill,  and  pour  his  men  into  the  work  in  conjunc- 
tion with  Quitman. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  commands  advanced.  In  Pillow's 
attack,  the  Voltigeurs,  with  Callender's  howitzer  battery, 
ran  forward,  and,  charging  the  wood,  soon  cleared  it  of 
the  enemy's  skirmishers.  His  whole  command  now 
pushed  forward  with  such  unexpected  vigor  that,  before 
the  storming  party  could  pass  them  to  take  the  lead,  the 
whole  brow  of  the  hill  was  covered  by  a  dense  body  of 
men,  who,  finding  cover  behind  rocks  and  in  the  inequal- 
ities of  the  ground,  steadfastly  maintained  its  position, 
swaying  slightly  in  the  effort  to  get  better  cover  whilst 
endeavoring  to  advance.  There  they  hung,  like  a  cluster 
of  bees,  whilst  a  tremendous  fire  of  artillery  opened  upon 
them  from  the  work.  The  storming  party  with  their 
ladders  now  pressed  forward ;  soon  they  were  planted,  the 
gallant  McKensie,  with  his  hat  on  his  sword,  pressed  for- 


CHAPULTEPEC  200 

ward,  drawing  after  as  by  strings  the  whole  command, 
who  in  a  moment  overleaped  the  work  and  drove  the  gun- 
ners down  the  eastern  slope,  where  a  fierce  conflict  still 
raged  on  the  part  of  Quitman. 

Quitman,  at  the  preconcerted  signal,  moved  forward  the 
select  storming  party  from  Twiggs's  division,  a  light  bat- 
talion under  the  gallant  Major  Twiggs,  and  a  select  storm- 
ing party  of  forty  marines  under  Captain  Keynolds  in  the 
advance,  followed  by  the  Maine  battalion,  the  South  Caro- 
lina, New  York,  and  Pennsylvania  volunteers. 

The  brigade  of  Smith  was  in  the  adjoining  field  on  the 
right,  and  had  assigned  to  it  the  duty  of  breaking  through 
the  aqueduct  and  taking  the  enemy  in  flank  and  rear. 
The  command  moved  up  the  causeway,  under  a  tremen- 
dous fire  of  artillery  and  musketry,  till  they  reached  some 
old  buildings  of  adobe,  where  they  were  obliged  to  get 
a  momentary  shelter.  From  this  position,  a  company  of 
the  rifles  and  portions  of  the  storming  parties  being  still 
further  in  advance,  they  opened  an  effective  fire  in  return. 
As  the  volunteer  regiments  came  up,  they  were  turned  off 
into  the  open  field  on  the  left,  intersected  with  ditches, 
to  the  assault  of  Chapultepec. 

The  New  Yorkers  and  Pennsylvanians  made  a  detour  to 
the  left,  and  entering  the  cypress  grove  at  an  abandoned 
breastwork  where  some  fifteen  minutes  previously  portions 
of  Pillow's  command  had  entered,  pressed  forward  and 
became  intermingled  with  Pillow's  command  as  it  poured 
into  the  work,  as  did  the  Palmettoes,  who  pierced  the 
stone  wall  at  a  partial  breach  made  by  a  cannon-ball  with- 
out scarcely  varying  from  their  direction. 

Smith  in  his  advance,  finding  two  wide  and  deep  ditches 
in  his  front  without  any  adequate  means  to  cross  them, 
and  his  force  too  small  to  force  the  passage  in  presence 
of  the  immense  force  of  the  enemy,  veered  to  the  left, 
and  sheltering  his   troops   partially  by  maguey  plants, 


210  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

opened  a  well-directed  fire  upon  the  enemy  in  conjunc- 
tion with  the  storming  parties  and  marines  on  the  cause- 
way. 

Meanwhile  Drum's  battery,  a  9-pounder  and  a  16- 
pounder,  came  up  and  opened  on  the  enemy,  as  did 
Hunt's  section  of  Drum's  battery. 

For  half  an  hour  the  contest  was  of  unparalleled 
severity.  Our  troops,  however,  pressed  forward,  and, 
Chapultepec  having  fallen,  the  enemy  fled  to  the  city 
along  the  Tacubaya  causeway,  and  a  causeway  entering 
the  San  Cosme  causeway  at  the  English  cemetery,  some 
six  hundred  yards  outside  the  garita,  yet  not  till  some  of 
the  most  resolute  of  their  troops  had  maintained  their 
posts  even  to  the  interlocking  of  bayonets  and  clubbing 
of  rifles. 

Quitman  on  the  Tacubaya  causeway,  the  rifles  and  1st 
artillery  of  Smith's  brigade  in  advance,  Worth  on  the 
San  Cosme  causeway,  pressed  forward  in  pursuit  of  the 
enemy. 

Aqueducts  supplying  the  city  with  water  extended 
along  both  these  causeways,  resting  on  arches  that 
afforded  partial  shelter  to  troops.  The  causeway  of  Ta- 
cubaya led  directly  into  the  city,  and  with  a  strong  field- 
work  midway  was  defended  at  the  gate  by  another  for- 
midable battery,  by  the  strong  work  of  the  citadel  three 
hundred  yards  distant,  and  by  cross-fires  from  a  formid- 
idable  battery  on  the  paseo  leading  from  the  San  Cosme 
to  the  Belen  suburb,  and  on  both  sides  were  almost 
impassable  ditches  filled  with  water. 

The  San  Cosme  suburb  extended  even  beyond  the 
English  cemetery,  where  there  was  a  formidable  field- 
work  sweeping  the  main  Cosme  causeway  and  the  cause- 
way from  Chapultepec.  At  the  gate,  and  two  hundred 
yards  without,  were  two  batteries  for  two  guns  each. 

Quitman   pushed   forward  his   command   with   unex- 


CHAPULTEPEC  211 

ampled  vigor.  The  rifles  and  1st  artillery  in  advance, 
closely  followed  by  the  Palmettoes,  marines,  and  the  re- 
mainder of  the  volunteer  division,  were  in  close  contact 
with  the  enemy  till  possession  was  effected  of  the  garita 
at  twenty  minutes  past  one.  In  this  contest  Drum's  bat- 
tery, assisted  by  Captain  Winder's  company  of  the  1st 
artillery  as  a  fatigue  party,  was  served  with  a  vigor  and 
enthusiasm  unparalleled  in  this  war.  The  iron  men  of 
Drum  pushed  it  into  the  very  teeth  of  the  enemy's  fire, 
and  made  it  send  forth  an  iron  hail  that  drove  the  enemy 
from  all  his  positions,  even  the  garita  itself.  Drum 
paused  not  at  the  garita.  With  a  sublime  devotion,  he 
marched  boldly  up  to  the  very  citadel  itself,  and  fell 
mortally  wounded,  together  with  his  gallant  lieutenant, 
Benjamin,  two  thirds  of  his  company  being  disabled.  In 
command  of  a  battery  only  three  weeks,  he  fell  univer- 
sally lamented,  the  first  artillerist  of  the  army. 

The  temporary  pause  in  the  pursuit  on  the  capture  of 
the  garita,  considered  indispensable  to  get  the  command 
in  hand  in  order  to  proceed  against  the  enemy,  who  was 
still  in  force,  gave  time  to  reassure  the  troops  at  the  cita- 
del, who  were  at  one  moment  struck  with  a  panic,  and  on 
the  eve  of  evacuating  the  position.  Notwithstanding  the 
heroic  conduct  of  Drum  and  the  gallantry  of  the  rifles 
and  Palmettoes,  the  terrible  fire  which  was  soon  opened 
from  that  work  and  the  battery  on  the  paseo  compelled 
Quitman  to  withdraw  his  troops  to  the  shelter  of  the 
garita,  where  they  sustained  the  tremendous  fire  of  the 
enemy  till  nightfall. 

The  command  of  Worth,  on  the  fall  of  Chapultepec, 
boldly  pushed  forward  to  the  San  Cosme  suburb,  Gar- 
land's brigade  and  Magruder's  battery  in  front.  A 
smart  encounter  was  had  with  a  considerable  body  of  the 
enemy's  lancers,  who  were  charging  down  the  causeway. 
Magruder  Was  vigorously  pushing  forward  his  guns,  ably 


212  ISAAC  INGALLS   STEVENS 

supported  by  the  troops,  and  the  battery  at  the  English 
cemetery  was  about  to  fall  into  our  hands,  when  the 
whole  command  was  halted.  Worth,  on  arriving  at  a 
cross-road  leading  to  the  Tacubaya  cemetery,  was  attracted 
by  the  tremendous  contest  going  on  there,  and  in  conse- 
quence halted  his  command  to  be  in  condition  to  lend 
a  hand  to  Quitman  in  case  of  his  being  sorely  pressed. 
Timely  assistance  was  rendered  by  Duncan's  battery, 
which  contributed  materially  to  Quitman's  success. 
Meanwhile  a  reconnoissance  by  the  engineers  showed 
that  the  enemy  had  no  artillery  in  position  at  the  ceme- 
tery, that  the  infantry  force  there  was  not  formidable, 
and  the  lancers  hanging  on  the  flanks  were  not  worthy 
of  regard.  Soon  the  order  was  given  to  charge  the 
works.  Our  troops  pressed  in,  driving  the  enemy  before 
them  and  with  little  loss,  and  pressed  forward  to  the 
batteries  at  the  garita  and  in  advance.  Worth,  on  his 
arrival  at  the  suburb  about  half  past  twelve  o'clock,  find- 
ing that  a  continuous  row  of  stone  buildings  put  it  in 
our  power  to  make  a  permanent  lodgment,  and  reduce 
the  contest  to  the  crowbar  and  pickaxe  without  exposing 
the  lives  of  the  men,  recalled  the  troops,  and  awaited  the 
arrival  of  the  ordnance  and  engineer  trains. 

A  reconnoissance  having  shown  that  the  first  battery 
could  easily  be  carried  and  with  little  loss,  the  enemy  was 
driven  from  it,  and  Hunt's  section  was  put  in  position 
behind  it,  and  made  to  open  on  the  enemy's  battery  of 
two  guns  at  the  garita.  But  he  was  soon  compelled  to 
put  his  battery  under  cover  in  consequence  of  the  superior 
metal  of  the  enemy. 

At  four  the  trains  arrived,  and  immediately  the  troops, 
armed  with  the  proper  tools,  commenced  making  their 
way  from  house  to  house.  One  party,  headed  by  the 
engineer  company,  reaching  the  top  of  a  high  building, 
forty  yards  from  the  garita,  opened  fire  upon  the  enemy 


CAPTURE  OF  CITY  OF  MEXICO  213 

at  the  guns  at  the  very  moment  a  similar  fire  was  opened 
from  a  party  on  the  other  side  of  the  street  led  by  the 
gallant  McKensie.  The  enemy  was  driven  from  the 
garita,  but  took  away  one  of  their  guns.  At  nightfall 
Worth's  whole  command  was  lodged  in  the  suburb,  his 
advance  within  twelve  hundred  yards  of  the  Alameda. 

During  the  night  Quitman,  in  the  erection  of  batteries 
and  infantry  covers,  was  making  every  preparation  to 
renew  the  contest  in  the  morning  and  to  carry  his  attack 
into  the  heart  of  the  city. 

The  enemy,  however,  withdrew  their  troops,  and  at 
seven  o'clock  Quitman's  command  entered  the  citadel, 
and,  pushing  forward  to  the  main  plaza,  the  marines 
cleared  the  palace  of  the  leperos,  or  thieves,  who  were 
infesting  it,  and  hoisted  the  star-spangled  banner  from  its 
summit. 

General  Scott,  who  had  been  the  master  spirit  of  the 
whole  operations,  originating  the  plan  of  attacking  Cha- 
pultepec,  giving  the  order  when  the  time  had  come  to 
make  the  assault,  from  the  extended  position  of  Chapul- 
tepec  ordering  the  movements  upon  the  causeways,  sup- 
porting each  by  an  adequate  force,  and  on  a  lodgment 
being  effected  in  the  Cosme  suburb  ordering  the  resort 
to  the  crowbar  and  the  refraining  from  the  bayonet, — 
General  Scott  at  eight  o'clock  issued  his  orders  from  the 
national  palace  announcing  his  occupation  of  the  capital 
of  Mexico. 

Still,  a  desultory  contest  was  kept  up  throughout  the 
day  from  the  houses  of  the  city  by  an  intermingled  body 
of  soldiers  and  leperos  led  on  by  officers  of  the  army. 
Scott  took  the  most  decided  means  to  stop  it,  and  ordered 
every  house  to  be  blown  up  from  which  a  hostile  shot 
should  be  fired.  At  night  the  city  was  tranquil  and  in 
the  undisturbed  possession  of  our  troops. 

Thus  the  crowning  glories  of  Chapultepec  and  of  the 


2lk  '    ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

gates  of  San  Cosme  and  Belen  placed  us  in  the  undis- 
puted possession  of  the  City  and  valley  of  Mexico.  The 
public  force  of  the  enemy,  dispirited  and  demoralized, 
paused  two  or  three  days  at  Guadalupe  and  divided:  Santa 
Anna  with  a  portion  repairing  to  Puebla  to  try  his  for- 
tunes against  Childs,  the  governor  of  that  place,  and  to 
watch  his  opportunity  to  fall  upon  our  reinforcements 
coming  up  from  Vera  Cruz ;  the  remainder,  a  disorderly 
rabble,  repairing  to  Queretaro,  where  the  government  was 
to  be  temporarily  established. 

The  casualties  to  the  American  arms  in  this  valley  have 
been  immense,  —  2703  out  of  a  force  of  10,737,  over  one 
fourth,  equal  to  the  English  loss  at  the  siege  of  Badajos. 

General  Scott's  movement  against  Chapultepec  was 
masterly,  and  in  his  plans  he  was  well  seconded  by  his 
generals.  The  removal  of  the  depot  to  Mixcoac,  the  con- 
centration of  the  troops  at  La  Piedad,  and  the  reconnois- 
sances  in  that  direction,  impressed  the  enemy  with  the 
belief  that  that  point  of  the  city  was  to  be  attacked ;  nor 
were  they  undeceived  till  the  very  last  moment,  fully 
believing  that  the  operations  against  Chapultepec  were 
only  a  feint. 

In  the  attack  upon  Chapultepec  General  Quitman's 
arrangements  are  open  to  criticism.  His  select  storming 
party  intended  for  the  assault  of  Chapultepec,  and  armed 
with  ladders  to  scale  and  implements  to  break  through 
the  walls,  were  kept  on  the  causeway ;  whereas  the  whole 
volunteer  force  was  sent  in  that  direction,  wholly  unpro- 
vided in  every  particular,  and  that,  too,  at  too  late  a  period 
to  be  of  much  essential  assistance,  and  in  a  direction 
which  made  it  necessary  to  fall  in  with  Pillow's  command, 
already  supported  in  great  strength  by  the  whole  of 
Worth's  division.  The  consequence  was  that  General 
Smith  found  himself  too  weak  to  break  through  the 
enemy's  force  at  the  aqueduct  and  take  him  in  flank  and 


CAPTURE  OF  CITY  OF  MEXICO  215 

rear.  Had  Smith  been  preceded  by  the  storming  party- 
provided  with  plank  to  cross  the  ditches,  and  supported 
by  two  of  the  volunteer  regiments,  the  slaughter  of  the 
enemy  must  have  beon  immense,  and  large  numbers  must 
have  been  taken  prisoners.  The  marines  with  their  storm- 
ing party,  the  light  battalion,  and  one  of  the  volunteer 
regiments  with  Drum's  battery  would  have  been  in  place 
to  encounter  the  enemy  on  the  causeway. 

At  the  garita  Drum's  battery  and  the  Palmettoes  were 
pushed  forward  under  the  guns  of  the  citadel,  and  large 
numbers  were  uselessly  sacrificed. 

On  the  whole,  however,  General  Quitman  exercised 
good  judgment,  and  gave  proof  of  extraordinary  vigor, 
intrepidity,  and  firmness.  And  he  deserves  the  greatest 
credit  for  his  perfect  mastery  of  his  command. 

General  Pillow's  dispositions  were  good  and  well  exe- 
cuted, excepting  that  the  storming  party  did  not  move  in 
season,  in  consequence  of  which  the  supporting  force, 
pressing  onward,  gained  the  brow  of  the  hill  in  dense 
masses,  and  were  there  detained  some  little  time  awaiting 
the  storming  party  with  their  ladders,  who  in  their  turn 
found  great  difficulty  in  pushing  their  way  through  to 
the  front,  which  only  a  small  portion  succeeded  perfectly 
in  doing. 

General  Worth,  in  his  attack  upon  the  city,  unneces- 
sarily delayed  his  advance  to  succor  Quitman.  Quitman 
was  to  be  most  effectually  relieved  by  the  vigorous  attack 
of  Worth  on  his  own  line.  On  the  arrival  of  the  trains, 
however,  he  proceeded  with  great  judgment  and  efficiency, 
and  his  attack  alone,  in  consequence  of  being  able  to 
work  from  house  to  house,  must  have  of  itself  put  the 
city  into  our  hands.  Had  it  not  been  for  Worth's  vigor- 
ous movement  towards  nightfall,  bringing  him  well  into 
the  city,  the  enemy  would  not  have  abandoned  the  citadel 
to  Quitman  without  a  severe  struggle. 


216  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

Twiggs's  command  did  not  have  the  prominence  as  a 
division  that  it  had  at  Contreras  and  Churubusco  in  con- 
sequence of  the  brigades  being  separated.  Smith's  brig- 
ade did  good  service  in  conjunction  with  Quitman,  and 
Riley  at  La  Piedad  kept  the  enemy  in  check  during  the 
storming  of  Chapultepec,  and,  afterwards  joining  Worth, 
did  good  service  in  the  streets  on  the  14th. 

The  engineers  did  good  service  during  all  their  opera- 
tions at  Molino  del  Rey.  Captain  Mason  made  a  most 
daring  and  successful  examination  of  the  front  of  the 
enemy's  position,  and  in  the  attack  on  the  8th  was  sig- 
nally gallant,  but  the  result  showed  that  the  right  of 
the  enemy  should  have  been  more  particularly  examined. 
The  character  of  his  defenses  at  this  point  was  never 
known  till  our  troops,  in  the  full  tide  of  battle,  were  hurled 
against  them,  to  be  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  nearly  half 
their  number. 

Without  shining  talents,  and  without  any  remarkable 
decision  or  independence  of  character,  Captain  Lee  has 
rendered  signal  service  on  this  line.  Laborious,  constant, 
firm,  of  good  judgment,  patient,  and  guarded  in  his  con- 
duct, of  popular  manners  and  address,  he  has  been  a  safe 
counselor,  and  always  efficient  in  the  discharge  of  duty. 
Distinguished  at  Vera  Cruz,  the  Cerro  Cordo,  and  in  this 
valley,  both  before  and  subsequent  to  the  armistice,  he 
continued  at  his  post  to  the  last  moment,  even  when 
oppressed  with  illness  and  great  physical  fatigue.  After 
the  storm  of  Chapultepec  he  received  a  severe  contusion 
in  the  thigh,  which  disabled  him  for  the  day. 

Lieutenant  Beauregard  is  one  of  the  finest  soldiers  in 
our  corps.  Of  great  strength,  accomplished  in  all  manly 
exercises,  well  read  in  his  profession,  and  of  forcible  and 
independent  character,  much  self-reliance  and  confidence, 
he  has  established  a  good  reputation  throughout  the  ser- 
vice.    On  the  day  of  the  storm  of  Chapultepec,  although 


CAPTURE  OF  CITY  OF  MEXICO  217 

struck  several  times  and  twice  severely,  he  maintained 
his  post,  and  in  the  night  supervised  the  erection  of  the 
batteries  and  infantry  covers,  from  which  Quitman  was 
to  open  his  fires  upon  the  citadel  in  case  the  enemy  had 
continued  the  conflict  on  the  following  day. 

Lieutenant  Tower,  for  judgment,  for  an  assured  and 
natural  self-reliance,  great  force  of  character,  and  great 
decision  and  intrepidity  in  emergencies,  has  no  superior  in 
our  corps.  Indefatigable  at  Vera  Cruz  and  the  Cerro 
Gordo,  he  was  eminently  distinguished  at  Contreras. 
Subsequent  to  the  armistice  he  was  efficient  in  the  dis- 
charge of  his  duties,  and  the  engineer  officer  of  Quitman 
on  the  day  of  the  storm  of  Chapultepec ;  he  was  remark- 
ably intrepid  under  the  fire  of  the  enemy,  and  was  at 
his  post  till  a  severe  wound  in  the  head  compelled  him  to 
withdraw. 

Lieutenant  Smith,  in  command  of  the  engineer  com- 
pany, has  rendered  the  most  distinguished  service.  He 
has  shown  great  power  of  command.  The  engineer  com- 
pany has  rendered  the  most  distinguished  service.  The 
engineer  company  devolved  upon  him  in  a  state  of  great 
despondency  and  discontent  on  the  part  of  the  men.  By 
his  judicious  management  he  breathed  into  it  the  breath 
of  life,  raised  the  spirits  of  the  men,  and  inspired  them 
with  hope  and  confidence.  In  his  hands  the  company 
has  acquired  a  great  reputation  in  the  service. 

His  lieutenants,  McClellan  and  Foster,  are  both  brave, 
intrepid,  efficient,  and  devoted  to  duty.  At  Molino,  Foster 
was  dangerously  wounded  in  the  leg. 

But  perhaps  no  officer  of  engineers  has  rendered  more 
brilliant  service  than  Captain  Mason.  Of  remarkable 
intellectual  force,  great  quickness  of  apprehension,  highly 
cultivated,  an  ambitious  student,  and  frank  and  honest  in 
his  life,  on  the  field  of  battle,  in  a  reconnoissance  of  the 
enemy's  position,  indeed  in  every  emergency,  he  has  been 


218  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

conspicuous  for  force,  rapid  decision,  and  the  most  daring 
intrepidity. 

In  my  own  case,  delicate  health  has  much  diminished 
my  efficiency.  Our  long  rest  in  Puebla  did  something 
towards  restoring  my  strength,  and  I  entertained  the 
hope  that  it  would  prove  equal  to  any  emergency.  I 
rode  in  an  ambulance  to  Buena  Vista,  and  subsequently 
from  Ayotla  to  San  Augustin.  My  reconnoissance  of 
the  Penon,  in  which  I  was  employed  seven  hours  in  mud 
and  water,  and  within  almost  point-blank  range  of  the 
enemy's  guns,  was  highly  satisfactory  to  General  Scott. 
On  the  19th,  at  Contreras,  I  was  too  much  exhausted  and 
in  too  delicate  health  to  remain  on  the  field  exposed  to 
the  rain.  I  in  consequence  returned  to  San  Augustin, 
and  was  not  present  in  the  splendid  attack  of  General 
Smith  on  Valencia's  intrenched  camp.  At  Churubusco  I 
was  the  senior  engineer  officer  of  Twiggs's  division.  At 
the  close  of  that  day  I  was  almost  wholly  prostrated  by 
my  exertions,  and  I  had  not  renewed  the  strength  with 
which  I  left  Puebla  on  the  termination  of  the  armistice. 
At  Molino  del  Rey  I  accompanied  the  reserves  to  the 
field,  and  on  Mason  and  Foster  becoming  disabled  from 
wounds,  did  duty  during  the  remainder  of  the  action. 
Subsequently,  in  conjunction  with  Beauregard  and  Tower, 
I  reconnoitred  the  southern  front  of  the  city.  In  con- 
sequence of  physical  exhaustion  I  was  not  assigned  to 
duty  in  the  establishing  of  batteries  against  Chapultepec, 
but  on  the  day  of  the  13th  was  on  duty  till  I  was  wounded, 
in  the  San  Cosme  suburb,  about  half  past  one  o'clock. 

September  13.  At  half  past  one  o'clock  I  was  wounded 
in  the  foot,  whilst  posting  a  picket  at  a  little  work  at  a 
village  some  five  hundred  yards  beyond  the  English  cem- 
etery. Dr.  De  Lein  cut  out  the  ball.  It  struck  close  to 
the  little  toe,  and  crossing  over  a  little  obliquely  to  the 
rear,  was  cut  out  just  in  front  of  the  instep.     The  bones 


CAPTURE  OF  CITY  OF  MEXICO  219 

are  fractured  and  the  tendons  lacerated.  About  half 
past  three  o'clock  I  was  taken  to  Tacubaya  in  an  ambu- 
lance, and  in  the  evening  Dr.  Barnes  dressed  my  wound. 

September  14.  I  was  removed  to  the  city  this  day, 
and  placed  in  comfortable  quarters  in  the  palace.  I  suf- 
fered some  little  pain  last  night  and  through  the  day.  I 
owe  many  thanks  to  Major  Smith  for  his  unwearied 
kindness. 

September  15.  To-day  I  am  relieved  of  pain,  though 
last  night  I  got  but  indifferent  rest.  Dr.  Barnes  at- 
tends me,  and  has  commenced  applying  poultices. 

September  17.  Dr.  Barnes,  on  examining  my  wound 
this  morning,  observed,  in  a  manner  that  showed  he  was 
relieved  of  much  anxiety,  "  I  can  save  the  foot." 

September  18-30.  During  this  period  my  wound  has 
done  famously.  I  have  been  in  no  pain  whatever.  News 
has  come  of  large  reinforcements  pouring  in  from  below, 
and  many  expect  them  to  reach  Mexico  as  early  as  the 
10th  proximo.  It  seems  to  me  we  cannot  reasonably 
expect  their  arrival  till  the  20th  or  30th  proximo. 

Santa  Anna,  some  few  days  after  our  entrance,  abdi- 
cated the  presidency  in  favor  of  the  chief  justice,  Pena  y 
Pena,  and  announced  his  intention  to  go  to  Puebla,  or- 
ganize a  force,  and  operate  against  Childs  and  reinforce- 
ments coming  up  from  below.  No  one  here  is  much 
apprehensive  of  the  result. 

The  general  has  found  it  necessary  to  issue  stringent 
orders  in  regard  to  assassinations  of  men,  and  to  enforce 
the  utmost  vigilance  on  the  part  of  our  guards.  In  some 
of  the  regiments  the  police  is  bad,  and  the  guards  totally 
neglectful  of  their  duty. 

A  large  city  is  ruinous  to  the  morale  of  troops.  The 
officers  in  our  army  spend  the  nights  at  the  gambling- 
houses  (tigers),  and  the  men  indulge  in  women  and  drink 
as  long  as  their  money  lasts. 


220  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

A  camp  of  instruction  alone  affords  the  means  of  put- 
ting troops  in  a  high  state  of  discipline  and  efficiency. 
Yet  the  occupation  of  cities  has  great  advantages.  The 
residents  become  familiar  with  our  character  and  customs, 
and  friendly  relations  grow  up. 

October  1.  This  day  I  have  sat  up  the  first  time,  —  a 
most  agreeable  change  from  the  recumbent  posture.  We 
hear  news  from  below  that  Childs  has  been  severely 
pressed.  Here,  we  are  firmly  of  opinion  that  he  cannot 
be  driven  from  his  post.  It  is  hoped  and  believed  that 
no  troops  will  march  up  from  below  except  in  a  strong 
column,  four  to  six  thousand  men.  A  small  body  might 
tempt  the  enemy.  He  might  fall  upon  it  with  a  large 
force  and  gain  some  success. 

October  2-11.  Rumors  accumulate  in  reference  to 
Santa  Anna's  attack  on  Puebla.  From  all  accounts,  his 
troops  are  of  poor  quality,  and  he  is  not  on  the  best 
terms  with  his  subordinates.  My  wound  is  doing  exceed- 
ingly well,  and  I  have  at  length  found  an  opportunity  to 
write  to  my  wife  and  father  by  way  of  Tampico. 

October  12-24.  My  wound  has  been  doing  badly, 
and  my  general  health  has  been  poor.  For  several  days 
the  foot  became  much  inflamed,  and  poultices  had  to  be 
applied.  The  new  flesh  has  sloughed  off,  and  the  pro- 
cess of  granulation  has  to  be  gone  over  again.  At  the 
present  time  my  wound  is  doing  well,  and  the  fever  or 
flux,  which  has  threatened  me  for  many  days,  I  have 
nearly  driven  off. 

November  1.  A  train  of  six  hundred  wagons  departed 
for  Vera  Cruz  with  a  large  number  of  wounded  officers 
and  men,  on  their  return  to  the  States ;  Generals  Quit- 
man and  Shields,  Colonels  Garland,  Andrews,  and  Mor- 
gan, Major  Smith,  and  other  distinguished  officers  being 
of  the  number. 

General  Quitman  leaves  behind  him  the  most  enviable 


CITY  OF  MEXICO  221 

reputation.  Courteous  in  deportment,  just  in  conduct,  a 
man  of  business  devoted  to  his  duty,  he  is  second  to  no 
commander  of  division  in  this  army.  As  a  military  man 
he  is  said  to  be  well  informed,  and  to  understand  well 
the  principles  of  his  profession.  He  has  extraordinary 
vigor,  courage,  and  coolness,  and  he  has  exhibited  great 
ability  in  the  management  of  the  volunteer  division. 

General  Shields  has  all  the  dashing  and  enthusiastic 
bravery  peculiar  to  the  Irish  race.  There  is  no  braver 
man  in  our  army.  Since  entering  the  military  service  he 
has  assiduously  studied  his  profession,  and  is  fast  rising 
as  a  military  man. 

November  2.  Yesterday  and  to-day  have  been  festi- 
val (All  Saints')  days.  Word  came  from  Colonel  Childs 
that  General  Lane  on  the  29th  set  out  from  Puebla  with 
a  column  to  meet  the  train,  and  that  General  Patterson 
left  Vera  Cruz  with  five  thousand  men.  There  is  still 
an  impression  that  General  Patterson  will  assume  the 
command,  and  that  General  Scott  will  be  recalled.  But 
I  discredit  it  entirely.  Very  few  cases  of  stabbing  now 
occur. 

On  the  departure  of  Major  Smith,  with  whom  I  have 
messed  nearly  the  whole  time  I  have  been  in  the  country, 
I  find  myself  entirely  alone.  Colonel  Watson  (in  com- 
mand of  Shields's  brigade)  and  staff  occupied  adjoining 
rooms,  and  we  made  a  very  pleasant  little  circle.  Colonel 
Watson  is  a  candid,  sensible,  and  good  man.  I  esteem 
him  highly.  Lieutenant  Baker  is  a  gentleman  of  much 
intelligence,  considerable  acuteness,  and  of  the  most 
friendly  feelings.  They  are  now  all  gone,  and  I  am  now 
installed  in  Colonel  Watson's  apartment.  I  am  in  a 
spacious  room,  with  three  large  windows  hung  in  damask 
looking  on  the  street,  and  having  at  one  extremity  a 
raised  platform,  carpeted,  and  canopied  with  damask. 
Here  I  have  my  bed,  my  table,  and  my  armchair,  as 


222  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

comfortable  as  all  the  world.  Indeed,  I  now  very  much 
feel  as  if  I  were  in  the  halls  of  the  Montezumas.  My 
brother  officers  have  most  kindly  offered  to  do  all  they 
can  for  me. 

November  3.  Since  the  departure  of  the  train  the 
weather  has  been  beautiful.  Captain  Naylor  this  morning 
very  summarily  dispelled  my  dreams  of  luxuriating  in  the 
halls  of  the  Montezumas  by  saying  that  the  room  I  now 
occupied  was  needed  for  a  commission,  and  that  he  must 
ask  me  to  remove  to  my  old  quarters.  As  they  were 
exceedingly  damp  and  uncomfortable,  and  totally  unfit 
for  an  invalid,  Captain  Lee  referred  the  matter  to  General 
Smith,  the  governor  of  the  city,  who  decided  that  I  should 
not  be  moved  till  a  suitable  room  could  be  provided. 

Captain  Naylor  is  an  enthusiast  on  the  subject  of  the 
regeneration  of  Mexico  through  American  intervention. 
As  superintendent  of  the  archives,  he  avails  himself  of 
his  opportunities  to  understand  this  people.  They  are 
undoubtedly  degenerating.  The  cities  are  falling  into 
decay ;  the  mechanic  arts  do  not  improve ;  misrule  and 
anarchy  have  long  been  the  every-day  experience  of  this 
unfortunate  people.  In  the  City  of  Mexico  not  a  new 
house  has  been  built  for  years,  and  many  structures  are 
crumbling  into  ruins. 

November  4.  My  friends,  Captains  Lee,  Power,  and 
Hardcastle,  give  glowing  accounts  of  the  scenic  represen- 
tations at  the  Santa  Anna  theatre,  —  more  perfect  in  the 
mechanical  contrivances,  and  more  splendid  in  effect,  than 
anything  to  be  seen  in  our  own  country.  I  regretted 
to  learn  that  Captain  Lee's  man  Peter  was  murdered  in 
Ayotla  after  the  arrival  of  the  train  on  the  evening  of 
the  1st  instant. 

The  officers  are  hard  at  work  at  their  drawings,  and 
hope  to  finish  them  against  my  going  down  in  the  next 
train. 


CITY  OF  MEXICO  223 

November  11.  During  the  past  few  days  I  have  been 
ill  and  well  again,  —  a  bad  cold  and  the  wound  inflamed. 
The  doctor,  however,  still  confines  me  to  my  room.  He 
considers  that  rest  is  necessary  to  prevent  my  foot's 
inflaming. 

Information  has  come  that  General  Patterson,  on  the 
27th  ultimo,  left  Vera  Cruz.  He  will  probably  require 
twenty  days  to  reach  Puebla,  and  some  twelve  days  more 
to  make  his  arrangements  there  and  his  journey  to 
Mexico.  I  shall  not,  therefore,  look  for  a  mail  before 
the  17th  instant. 

November  14.  Nothing  of  interest  has  occurred  in 
the  city.  Anaya  is  said  to  have  been  elected  provisional 
president.  A  piece  of  leather  of  the  size  of  half  a  tlaco 
came  from  my  wound  to-day.  It  was  cut  out  of  my  shoe 
by  the  ball  and  carried  into  my  foot. 

November  15.  A  general  order  was  published  to-day 
announcing  the  determination  of  the  general  to  bring  to 
trial  and  punishment  all  officers  who  shall,  contrary  to 
regulations,  furnish  for  publication  accounts  of  opera- 
tions in  the  field,  and  censuring  in  the  severest  terms  the 
authors  of  "  Leonidas  "  and  of  the  Tampico  letter  in  the 
"  North  American." 

November  16.  Colonel  Duncan,  in  a  letter  breathing 
defiance  to  the  general,  announced  himself  as  the  author 
of  the  Tampico  letter,  and  exonerated  General  Worth 
from  all  knowledge  even  of  its  having  been  written  till  it 
was  well  on  its  way.  It  was  not  written  for  publication, 
Colonel  Duncan  avers.  Colonel  Duncan  was  arrested  in 
consequence  of  these  matters. 

November  18.  The  long-expected  train  arrived  to-day, 
bringing  me  three  letters  from  my  dear  wife,  and  news 
of  my  little  family  being  in  excellent  health.  Mr.  Trist 
has  been  recalled,  and  it  seems  to  be  the  determination 
of  the  government  to  abandon  all  attempts  to  negotiate  a 


224  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

peace,  and  to  prosecute  the  war  unto  the  occupation  of 
the  whole  country. 

November  20.  Much  to  my  delight,  I  mounted  my 
crutches  to-day  and  moved  about  my  room. 

November  21.  I  made  a  call  on  my  friend  Major 
Kir  by,  and  met  several  of  my  acquaintances. 

November  22.  To-day  I  got  as  far  as  the  engineer 
office.     General  Pillow  is  in  arrest. 

December  4.  Went  into  the  streets  to-day  and  was 
much  rejoiced  to  be  relieved  from  confinement.  Called 
to  see  my  friend  Foster,  and  found  him  doing  nicely. 

December  5.  Went  to  the  theatre,  and  was  charmed 
with  Cafiete.  My  friends  had  spoken  of  her  in  glow- 
ing terms,  and  I  went  prepared  to  find  her  overrated. 
She  is  remarkably  natural,  chaste,  and  graceful  in  all 
her  impersonations,  and  I  do  not  wonder  that  she  is 
so  very  popular  with  the  whole  world  of  theatre-going 
people. 

December  9.  The  train  finally  got  off  to-day,  and  pro- 
ceeded as  far  as  Venta  Nueva.  Foster  and  myself  have 
a  tolerable  ambulance  assigned  to  us.  We  got  off  late, 
the  last  wagons  not  leaving  the  city  till  towards  noon. 
The  mules  were  a  good  deal  fagged,  and  the  train  will 
not  probably  get  down  so  soon  by  two  days  in  conse- 
quence of  the  length  of  this  day's  march.  Distance, 
main  plaza  to  Ayotla,  fourteen  miles. 

December  10.  Proceeded  to  Kio  Frio.  Here  I  met 
my  classmate,  Colonel  Irvin,  in  command  of  the  5th  Ohio 
regiment.  The  night  was  quite  cold,  and,  not  finding  a 
room,  we  were  obliged  to  sleep  in  an  ambulance. 

December  11.  This  day  went  to  San  Martin,  where 
we  found  some  excellent  pulque.     Distance,  fifteen  miles. 

December  12.  Reached  Puebla.  Distance,  twenty 
miles. 

1847.     The  diary  ends  here. 


RETURN  TO  UNITED  STATES  225 

Lieutenant  Stevens's  wound  was  far  more  serious  than 
he,  in  his  cheerful  way  of  making  the  best  of  everything, 
admitted.  The  ball  ploughed  across  the  bridge  of  the 
foot,  breaking  nearly  all  the  bones.  At  first  the  surgeons 
were  extremely  doubtful  of  saving  the  foot.  The  wound 
was  slow  in  healing,  and  the  foot  never  fully  recovered 
its  strength  and  usefulness.  Three  times,  at  intervals  of 
one  or  two  years,  the  wound  opened  and  expelled  pieces 
of  bone.  For  many  years  he  had  to  wear  a  special  shoe 
with  extra-thick  sole. 

The  chief  of  the  robbers  who  served  as  spies  for  Gen- 
eral Scott,  a  man  of  striking  presence  and  romantic 
though  blood-stained  career,  known  as  Don  Juan  el  Dia- 
blo (Don  John  the  Devil),  formed  a  strong  attachment  to 
Lieutenant  Stevens,  and  took  care  of  him  during  a  great 
part  of  his  sickness,  and  was  devoted  and  unwearied  in 
his  attentions  to  the  wounded  officer. 

St.  Charles,  New  Orleans,  December  28,  1847. 
My  dearest  Wife,  —  I  have  just  reached  this  city  after  a 
four  days'  passage  from  Vera  Cruz,  and  a  twenty  days'  journey 
in  all  from  the  City  of  Mexico.  I  am  in  splendid  health,  al- 
though my  wound  still  keeps  me  on  crutches.  We  are  all  going 
up  the  river  to-morrow,  and  I  am  full  of  the  most  blissful 
anticipations  at  the  idea  of  seeing  you,  the  children,  and  friends. 
You  will  not  see  me  for  eight  or  ten  days  after  the  receipt  of 
this.  I  shall  be  obliged  to  stay  in  Washington  some  days. 
Love  to  friends,  and  to  Hazard  and  Sue.  I  hope  to  see  you 
soon. 

Yours  affectionately, 

Isaac. 


CHAPTER  XII 

HEROES  HOME  FROM  THE  WAR 

Washington,  January  23,  1848. 

My  dearest  Margaret,  —  At  the  strong  desire  of  the 
colonel,  I  must  remain  here  a  few  days  longer.  He  wishes  me 
to  go  with  him  over  all  the  reports  in  order  to  get  at  all  the 
facts  in  relation  to  the  services  of  the  engineer  officers  in  the 
recent  campaign  of  Mexico.  I  am  able  to  afford  many  explana- 
tions of  the  reports,  presenting  in  a  stronger  light  the  services 
of  our  officers,  which  will  enable  the  colonel  to  present  a  strong 
case  to  the  Secretary  in  matters  of  brevets. 

The  colonel  and  his  family  have  been  very  cordial  to  me,  and 
nothing  could  be  more  grateful  than  the  high  appreciation  they 
have  for  the  services  of  our  officers.  The  colonel  takes  great 
pride  in  the  distinction  which  our  corps  has  acquired.  Indeed, 
the  services  of  the  engineers  have  been  so  conspicuous  that  the 
corps  has  become  popular.  Every  one  knows  that  the  engineers 
have  important  functions  in  the  field. 

I  have  paid  my  respects  to  the  President  and  Secretary,  and 
was  highly  gratified  with  my  interview.  The  Secretary  had  a 
half  hour's  leisure,  and  I  took  the  opportunity  to  express  my 
sense  of  the  great  ability,  wisdom,  and  patriotism  of  General 
Scott.  The  Secretary  has  the  highest  admiration  for  his  mili- 
tary achievements,  and  is  indeed  a  just  and  judicious  friend  to 
the  service. 

I  am  boarding  at  Mrs.  Janney's  with  my  old  friends,  Gilmer 
and  Woodbury.  Woodbury  married  Miss  Child s,  a  very 
pleasant  lady.  Her  mother  is  also  boarding  at  the  same  place, 
a  highly  intelligent  person,  and  the  wife  of  Colonel  Childs,  dis- 
tinguished for  his  defense  of  Puebla. 

You  may  be  sure  I  am  very  impatient  to  see  you  and  my 
little  ones.  Nothing  but  a  sense  of  duty  to  my  brother  officers, 
who  are  absent  in  the  field,  could  have  induced  me  to  remain. 


HEROES  HOME  FROM   THE  WAR  227 

I  hope  to  reach  Newport  within  the  week,  certainly  by  next 
Sunday  morning. 

Affectionate  remembrances  to  friends,  and  love,  much  love, 
to  my  Hazard  and  Susan. 

Yours  most  affectionately, 

Isaac. 
My  health  is  splendid,  my  wound  improving. 

The  enforced  visit  to  Washington  was  not  without 
pleasant  features.  He  was  received  with  the  gratifying 
attentions  due  an  officer  just  from  the  seat  of  war,  who 
had  distinguished  himself  for  gallantry  and  conduct,  and 
enjoyed  the  congenial  duty  of  explaining  the  military 
operations  to  his  chief,  and  aiding  in  securing  for  his 
absent  comrades  the  honors  and  rewards  they  had  so 
well  earned.  A  letter  of  February  6  from  his  friend, 
Captain  Foster,  is  of  interest  in  this  connection  :  — 

"On  arriving  at  Washington  I  went  immediately  to  Mrs. 
Janney's.  There  I  heard  of  you.  They  all  spoke  very  highly 
of  you,  particularly  Mr.  Robbins,  who  was  very  much  interested 
in  you.  I  dined  at  Colonel  Totten's  on  Wednesday,  and  Mrs. 
T.  told  me  all  about  your  being  here.  They  all  paid  you  some 
very  fine  compliments.  Mrs.  T.  said  she  gained  more  informa- 
tion from  Mr.  Stevens  than  from  all  the  other  officers  who 
had  come  from  Mexico,  your  manner  of  speaking  of  men  and 
things  was  so  frank  and  just.  Miss  Kate  said  she  was  delighted 
with  Mr.  Stevens ;  he  was  correct  and  reliable  in  all  he  said. 
The  colonel  seemed  glad  to  see  me,  and  proud  of  the  reputation 
of  his  corps.  The  result  of  all  this,  I  hope,  will  be  that  he  will 
give  us  two  brevets,  make  you  a  major  in  charge  of  a  work, 
and  send  me  as  your '  assistant.  ...  It  made  me  right  jealous 
to  hear  the  flatteries  that  the  ladies  at  Mrs.  Burr's  bestowed  on 
the  '  gallant  Mr.  Stevens.'  " 

It  was  a  joyful  reunion  when  he  reached  Newport,  and 
enfolded  his  dearly  loved  wife  and  little  ones  in  his  arms. 
A  fortnight  later  he  visited  Andover,  and  one  may  im- 
agine how  his  father,  brother  Oliver,  and  cousins  and  fel- 


228  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

low  townsmen  received  the  soldier,  returned  on  crutches, 
with  open  arms,  and  lionized  him  to  the  full.  The  coun- 
try had  been  at  peace  for  thirty  years,  and  the  returning 
soldiers  from  Mexico,  especially  the  wounded  officers, 
were  received  with  mingled  feelings  of  awe  and  admira- 
tion. Writes  a  brother  officer,  "  The  boys  look  at  me 
around  the  corner,  remarking,  '  I  see  him/  6  There  he 
goes.'     ( The  man  that 's  been  to  Mexico.'  " 

Newport,  R.  I.,  February  28, 1848. 

My  dear  Father,  —  We  reached  Newport  about  half  past 
eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  same  day  we  left  Andover.  I 
am  now  in  my  office,  and  am  devoting  some  six  hours  each  day 
to  official  matters.  My  wound  is  improving ;  I  go  about  the 
house  with  a  cane  simply,  and  through  the  streets  with  one 
crutch  and  a  cane.  In  one  month,  or  at  least  in  two  months,  I 
hope  to  be  able  to  dismiss  my  crutches  entirely. 

I  hope  in  all  sincerity  that  our  difficulties  with  Mexico  are 
in  the  way  of  a  permanent  adjustment.  The  general  opinion 
is  that  the  Senate  will  ratify  the  treaty.  The  only  difficulty 
(and  one  which  in  my  opinion  is  much  to  be  apprehended)  is 
that  Mexico,  in  consequence  of  a  pronunciamiento,  may  disavow 
her  own  act.  I  trust,  however,  that  such  will  not  be  the  case, 
though  I  think  it  incumbent  upon  our  government  to  continue 
to  raise  and  push  out  troops  till  the  thing  is  settled.  Should 
there  be  want  of  faith  on  the  part  of  the  Mexicans,  we  should 
be  in  condition  to  punish  it  with  most  exemplary  severity.  Let 
our  war  measures  be  all  pushed  through  without  delay,  and 
let  there  be  the  greatest  activity  in  raising  troops.  This  course 
of  procedure,  whilst  ratifying  the  treaty,  will  make  the  treaty 
an  effective  thing. 

Remember  me  to  friends.  Margaret  wishes  to  be  affection- 
ately remembered  to  you.  Hazard  has  not  forgotten  your  sto- 
ries of  King  George  and  the  Redcoats. 

At  this  time  he  was  being  considered  for  the  colonelcy 
of  one  of  the  new  regiments,  which,  if  the  war  continued, 
would  have  to  be  raised.  A  prominent  member  of  Con- 
gress from  Maine,  Hezekiah  Williams,  writes  him,  "I 


HEROES  HOME  FROM  THE  WAR  229 

think  our  delegation  would  unite  in  recommending  you. 
It  certainly  would  give  me  pleasure  to  aid  in  obtaining 
your  appointment."     Mr.  Stevens  writes  Oliver :  — 

"  My  policy  is  to  get  elected  to  the  command  of  a  volunteer 
regiment,  and  get  a  leave  of  absence,  so  as  to  hold  on  to  my 
present  commission.  I  should  like  to  command  a  Massachusetts 
regiment  and  put  it  through  some  good  service  in  Mexico, 
should  we  be  obliged  to  resort  to  the  alternative  of  renewing 
the  contest." 

An  incident  occurred  one  day,  when  a  light  rifle  that 
Mr.  Stevens  had  taken  to  Mexico,  but  had  never  used  in 
action  there,  stood  in  good  stead.  A  mad  dog  ran  amuck 
down  Broad  Street,  frothing  at  the  mouth  and  snapping 
at  all  he  met.  The  people  on  all  sides  rushed  into  the 
shops  and  houses  for  refuge,  with  loud  outcries  of  alarm 
and  warning.  Mr.  Stevens,  apprised  of  the  danger, 
seized  the  light  rifle,  hobbled  out  on  his  crutches  to  the 
sidewalk,  followed  up  the  maddened  beast,  which  had 
now  dashed  into  the  hall  of  a  neighboring  house,  and 
shot  him  through  the  head,  killing  him  on  the  spot. 

He  might  now  reasonably  expect  a  little  rest  until  he 
could  recover  from  his  severe  wound  and  injury.  He 
writes  Oliver,  March  15  :  — 

"  I  am  taking  things  very  quietly  in  this  most  quiet  of  all 
places.  There  is  no  danger  from  dissipation  or  over-excite- 
ment, and  I  need  not,  therefore,  be  apprehensive  of  anything 
like  inflammation  in  my  wounded  part.  My  wound  is  doing 
exceedingly  well.  I  can  now  move  a  little  about  the  house 
with  a  cane." 

That  very  day  he  received  orders  to  proceed  to  Savan- 
nah, Ga.,  with  the  view  of  taking  charge  of  the  fortifi- 
cations on  the  Savannah  River.  After  his  arrival  there 
he  writes  Oliver,  March  27 :  — 

"  I  am  here  on  temporary  duty  for  a  few  days,  and  shall 
return  home  next  week.     This  is  to  be  my  permanent  station  in 


230  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  fall.  The  summer  I  shall  spend  in  amusing  myself.  A 
portion  of  it  will  be  passed  in  Andover. 

"  Savannah  is  an  old-looking,  handsomely  laid  out,  and 
pretty  well-built  place,  the  most  important  town  in  the  State, 
and  the  only  one  having  much  trade. 

"  Colonel  Mansfield  will  relieve  me  in  Bucksport  during  the 
latter  part  of  April,  at  which  time  I  shall  bid  adieu  to  my 
friends  in  Maine. 

44 1  am  tolerably  well  pleased  with  my  new  station.  It  is 
healthy  throughout  the  year,  and  I  have  no  doubt  the  change 
will  prove  highly  advantageous  so  far  as  health  is  concerned. 

"  The  duties  are  trifling.  The  large  work,  Fort  Pulaski,  is 
finished,  and  nothing  remains  to  be  done  but  to  prepare  a 
bridge-head  of  timber,  and  secure  the  island  from  overflow  by 
the  construction  of  dikes.  The  small  work,  Fort  Jackson,  will 
require  an  expenditure  of  something  less  than  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars  in  the  way  of  enlargement  and  repair. 

44  My  duties  will  therefore  be  comparatively  light.  Nothing 
will  be  doing  from  June  to  October ;  so  I  shall  be  able  to  go 
North  occasionally  to  pass  the  summer. 

44  The  people  are  very  hospitable,  and  I  shall  make  many 
acquaintances  before  I  leave.  I  have  an  old  classmate  just 
rising  at  the  bar  here,  and  many  officers'  families  reside  here." 

His  next  letter  to  Oliver,  from  Newport,  April  6,  is 
interesting  as  presenting  his  view  of  Cromwell :  — 

44 1  am  just  back  from  Savannah  after  an  absence  of  twenty 
days,  and  return  thither  to  commence  operations  in  November 
next.  The  intermediate  time  will  enable  me  to  get  well  of  my 
game  foot,  and  to  pass  some  little  time  among  my  friends.  I 
go  down  to  Bucksport  week  after  next  to  turn  over  the  public 
property  to  Colonel  Mansfield,  and  I  shall  probably  be  in  Port- 
land on  Friday,  April  21. 

44 1  am  rather  late  to  answer  the  principal  thing  in  your 
letter  of  the  25th  ultimo.  Both  subjects  are  good.  I  should 
think  that  4  Individuality  of  Character '  would  be  preferable, 
because  its  handling  does  not  require  so  much  reading  as 
Cromwell.  With  ample  leisure  for  investigation,  I  should  pre- 
fer the  latter.     I  do  not  know  of  a  single  unprejudiced  author- 


HEROES  HOME  FROM  THE  WAR  231 

ity.  Foster's  Statesmen  of  the  Commonwealth  and  Clarendon's 
History  are  the  best  I  have  seen.  Russell's  Biography  is  poor 
and  inaccurate.  Hume  is  very  superficial.  Catherine  Macau- 
lay  is  a  great  bigot.  Carlyle's  Cromwell  is  good,  because  it 
consists  principally  of  Cromwell's  letters  and  speeches.  Bab- 
ington  Macaulay's  essays  on  the  various  statesmen  of  the 
rebellion  are  good. 

"  I  like  your  idea  of  treating  the  subject  of  individuality. 
The  greatest  example  of  the  influence  of  a  strong,  original 
character  in  moulding  a  great  people  in  our  own  history  is 
Franklin.  It  was  the  strong,  original  characters  of  our  Revo- 
lution that  achieved  our  independence.  The  many  are  always 
ruled  by  a  few,  frequently  by  one,  the  wise,  the  strong  man,  or 
men.  I  have  found  in  this  view  many  fine  ideas  in  Carlyle's 
Heroes. 

"  As  regards  Cromwell :  he  and  he  alone  achieved  the  over- 
throw of  the  Stuarts.  Without  him  there  would  have  been 
no  glorious  restoration,  as  Burke  calls  the  expulsion  of  James. 
The  French  monarchy  would  have  still  been  absolute,  and  the 
French  people  would  have  still  been  in  chains.  Cromwell  was 
bold,  direct,  far-seeing,  a  great  governor  of  men.  Cromwell 
was  vastly  superior  in  the  elements  of  a  great  man  to  Hamp- 
den, to  Pym,  to  Strafford,  to  Vane.  A  bold  sketch  of  Crom- 
well's actual  part  in  the  greatest  drama  of  English  history 
would  be  highly  interesting.  Dwell  on  his  great  foresight, 
grasp,  directness,  sincerity ;  his  boisterous  youth,  his  religious 
fervor  in  after  years,  his  unswerving  advocacy  of  the  rights 
of  his  neighbors,  which  caused  him  to  be  called  the  Lord  of 
the  Fens  ;  his  unshrinking  avowal  of  his  opinions  in  his  early 
parliamentary  career ;  his  extraordinary  sagacity  in  organiz- 
ing his  Ironsides,  the  greatest  soldiers  of  ancient  or  modern 
times ;  his  self-denying  ordinance,  in  which  by  a  bold  stroke 
he  threw  half-way,  indecisive  men  from  the  army,  and  sent  it 
forth  to  victory ;  his  earnest  efforts  to  settle  matters  with 
Charles  after  the  forces  of  the  latter  were  dispersed,  and  he  a 
prisoner  ;  his  invincible  opposition  to  all  ecclesiastical  tyranny, 
whether  presbyterian  or  prelatical ;  his  part  in  the  execution 
of  the  king  ;  his  great  Irish  and  Scotch  campaigns,  particu- 
larly the  battle  of  Dunbar,  where  his  famous  rallying  cry,  as 


232  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  sun  shone  through  the  morning  clouds,  'Let  God  arise, 
and  let  his  enemies  be  scattered!'  spread  dismay  through  the 
ranks  of  his  enemies,  and  brought  a  glorious  victory  to  his 
arms." 

Now  he  enjoyed  a  month  of  the  rest  he  so  much 
needed.  With  his  wife  and  little  ones  he  occupied  rooms 
in  the  old  family  mansion,  a  welcome  guest  to  Mrs.  Ben- 
jamin Hazard  and  her  daughters,  who  always  regarded 
him  with  the  greatest  affection  and  admiration.  As  spring 
opened,  he  took  great  pleasure  in  making  a  famous  gar- 
den in  the  spacious  yard  behind  the  mansion,  having 
the  ground  manured  and  cultivated  in  the  most  thorough 
manner,  and  planting  the  greatest  profusion  of  vege- 
tables. His  friend  Mason  was  also  in  Newport,  recov- 
ering from  his  wound,  and  many  were  the  accounts  and 
discussions  had  with  him  and  Mr.  Brooks  and  other 
congenial  spirits  of  the  stirring  scenes  of  the  war. 

Major  Stevens  was  fully  convinced  of  the  justice  and 
necessity  of  the  Mexican  war.  The  repeated  depreda- 
tions by  Mexico  upon  Americans,  and  her  long-continued 
refusal  or  evasion  of  all  redress ;  her  publicly  declared 
purpose  of  conquering  the  republic  of  Texas  after  its 
independence  had  been  established  and  acknowledged  for 
ten  years ;  her  arrogant  demand  that  the  United  States 
should  not  admit  Texas  to  the  Union,  and  her  still  more 
arrogant  threat  that  she  would  regard  such  admission 
as  an  act  of  war ;  the  departure  of  her  minister  from 
Washington ;  and  the  breaking  off  of  all  friendly  rela- 
tions instantly  upon  the  passage  by  Congress  of  the 
resolution  admitting  the  Lone  Star  State,  —  left  no 
alternative  but  to  bring  the  inflated  and  treacherous 
pronunciamientos  to  terms  by  force  of  arms,  since  they 
were  amenable  neither  to  justice  nor  reason,  and  to 
"  conquer  a  peace  "  which  even  they  would  have  to  respect. 
And,  glorious  as  were  her  arms,  not  less  creditable  were 


RETURN  TO  BUCKSPORT  233 

the  moderation  and  magnanimity  of  the  Great  Republic, 
when  Mexico,  her  armies  destroyed,  her  capital  taken, 
lay  prostrate,  in  paying  a  large  indemnity  for  the  far- 
distant  and  almost  tenantless  regions  of  New  Mexico  and 
California,  which,  while  ready  to  fall  from  Mexico's 
feeble  grasp,  were  essential  to  the  expansion  of  the 
populous  and  fast-growing  Republic  of  the  North. 

In  the  latter  part  of  May  he  visited  Boston  and  An- 
dover  with  his  little  son. 

The  following  month  the  Savannah  orders  were  counter- 
manded, the  Engineer  Department  deeming  it  best  that 
he  should  continue  in  charge  of  Fort  Knox,  and  the 
other  works  in  Maine  and  New  Hampshire. 

After  a  preliminary  visit,  he  moved  his  family  again 
to  Bucksport,  in  June,  and  occupied  a  cottage  at  the  fort 
opposite  the  town. 

He  gathered  about  him  his  former  assistants,  A.  W. 
Tinkham  and  John  Lee,  and  continued  in  charge  of  the 
works  for  upwards  of  five  years. 

Having  a  strong  desire  to  own  a  home  of  his  own,  he 
purchased  a  house,  with  a  generous  lot  of  half  an  acre, 
overlooking  the  river.  The  house  was  of  two  stories, 
seven  rooms,  with  a  barn  in  the  rear  connected  by  a  wood- 
shed. The  principal  wharf  was  at  the  foot  of  the  street, 
and  here  Major  Stevens  kept  his  boat.  The  house  had 
an  ill  repute  as  being  unhealthy,  some  of  the  former  in- 
mates having  died  from  consumption.  When  cautioned 
on  this  score,  he  replied  :  "  It  is  high  time  some  one  took 
the  house  who  can  give  it  a  good  reputation."  He  had 
the  cellar  and  grounds  thoroughly  drained,  sunk  a  well, 
blasting  through  a  ledge  of  rock,  and  put  the  grounds 
and  garden  in  fine  order.  He  took  great  pains  with,  and 
pleasure  in,  the  garden,  raising  all  kinds  of  vegetables. 
They  kept  poultry  also,  and  among  them  was  a  flock  of 
twelve  ducklings  that  every  day  solemnly  waddled  down 


234  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

to  the  river  in  single  file,  and  as  solemnly  waddled  up 
the  hill  again  after  their  daily  bath  and  paddling  in  the 
river,  an  unceasing  source  of  interest  and  pleasure  to 
the  children. 

The  government  was  contemplating  the  fortification  of 
the  more  important  points  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  to  an 
inquiry  as  to  his  willingness  to  be  sent  to  that  distant 
field,  he  writes  the  following  characteristic  reply  :  - — 

"  As  regards  engineer  duty  on  the  Pacific  coast  for  a  year 
or  two,  I  should  be  well  pleased  with  it  did  I  feel  certain  that 
I  was  physically  in  condition  to  undertake  it.  If  the  passage 
thither  should  be  an  easy  one,  as  mostly  by  sea,  I  have  little 
doubt  that  on  my  arrival  at  the  scene  of  my  duties  my  lameness 
would  be  essentially  gone.  If  the  journey  should  be  overland, 
I  should  hardly  be  able  to  bear  the  fatigues  of  it  in  less  than 
two  or  three  months.  If  ordered,  I  should  go  without  hesita- 
tion, and  do  the  best  I  could.  I  must  leave  this  matter  entirely 
with  you.  No  officer  should  feel  at  liberty  to  decline  a  distant 
duty  of  this  kind,  and  in  this  case,  as  in  all  others,  let  the  pub- 
lic interests  alone  have  weight." 

Ambitious  he  was,  but  with  a  lofty  ambition,  not  to 
aggrandize  himself,  but  to  serve  his  country,  ever  ready 
to  sacrifice  personal  interests  and  feelings  to  the  public 
service.  In  this  and  other  letters  he  displays  a  certain 
impatience  that  personal  convenience  or  interests  should 
be  consulted  at  all  in  matters  of  public  duty. 

When  the  brevets  were  announced,  Lieutenant  Stevens 
was  brevetted  "Captain,  August  20,  1847,  for  gallant 
and  meritorious  conduct  in  the  battles  of  Contreras  and 
Churubusco,"  and  "Major, September  13, 1847, for  gallant 
and  meritorious  conduct  in  the  battle  of  Chapultepec." 

He  took  great  pains  to  secure  justice  to  all  the  engi- 
neer officers  in  the  way  of  brevets,  conceiving  that  he  was 
in  a  measure  responsible  therefor  because,  as  adjutant  of 
the  corps  in  Mexico,  the  engineer  reports  had  been  made 
through  him ;  he  had  had  charge  of  the  records,  and  had 


VISITS  WASHINGTON  235 

been  closely  consulted  by  the  chief,  General  Totten,  and 
spent  no  little  time  and  effort  in  behalf  of  those  who  had 
been  overlooked. 

The  engineers  felt  themselves  treated  with  injustice  in 
the  matter  of  brevet  pay,  for  while  the  officers  of  artillery, 
cavalry,  and  infantry  were  allowed  full  pay  when  assigned 
to  duty  according  to  their  brevet  rank,  the  former  were 
denied  the  same  right,  although  frequently  placed  in 
charge  of  works  and  assigned  to  duties  above  their  nomi- 
nal rank.  They  had  other  grievances,  too,  in  the  allow- 
ances for  rations,  horses,  etc.  One  so  disinterested  and 
indefatigable  in  behalf  of  his  corps  and  brother  officers 
as  Major  Stevens  would  be  sure  to  be  often  called  upon. 
He  took  great  interest  in  these  matters,  and  even  more 
in  the  general  reorganization  of  the  army,  upon  which  he 
corresponded  and  consulted  largely  with  able  and  public- 
spirited  young  officers  of  other  corps  as  well  as  his  own. 

It  was  not  until  November  that  his  friend  and  class- 
mate, Lieutenant  J.  F.  Gilmer,  relieved  him  of  the  vouch- 
ers and  papers  relating  to  Savannah  forts.  Writing  from 
Washington,  November  6,  Gilmer  says :  "  Captain  Fred. 
A.  Smith  would  like  much  to  have  you  here  this  winter. 
It  is  possible  you  may  do  the  corps  a  great  service  by 
being  in  Washington  this  winter." 

A  call  for  service  in  any  direction  always  appealed 
strongly  to  him,  and  accordingly  he  determined  to  visit 
Washington,  as  he  writes  his  brother  Oliver,  under  date 
of  Bucksport,  December  8,  1848.  This  letter  displays  a 
humorous  vein  not  usual  with  him,  and  gives  his  view  of 
the  character  and  public  policy  of  General  Taylor,  then 
just  elected  President :  — 

My  dear  Brother,  —  I  rejoice  to  learn  that  you  are  still 
in  the  land  of  the  living,  and  that  that  severe  and  noble  pursuit, 
the  law,  does  not  prevent  your  seeing  the  lions  of  the  town. 
But  you  are  very  cruel  to  triumph  over  us  benighted  creatures 


236  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

in  this  region  of  frosts  and  snows.  In  truth  we  lead  a  quiet, 
rational,  country  life,  perhaps  as  much  to  be  envied  as  the  more 
attractive  life  of  the  great  city.  I  wish  you,  however,  distinctly 
to  understand  that  we  do  not  suck  our  paws  during  the  winter, 
and  I  feel  bound  to  disabuse  you  of  this  misapprehension.  That 
is  done  still  farther  down  East,  I  believe.  We  do  not  sleep  more 
than  twelve  or  at  most  fourteen  hours  a  day.  We  manage  to 
eat  three  meals  per  day.  But  it  is  hard  work ;  they  approxi- 
mate rather  too  closely.  We  drink  tea  nights,  and  eat  apples 
mornings.  We  get  the  newspapers  generally  every  day,  and 
expect  to  read  the  Message  to-morrow.  By  way  of  diversion,  we 
slide  down  hill  on  a  moonlight  evening.  Then  there  are  prayer 
and  conference  meetings  ad  libitum.  What  a  consolation  these 
latter  privileges  would  be  to  one  of  your  serious  turn  of  mind ! 
I  can  almost  see  your  grave  countenance  lighted  up  with  heavenly 
radiance  on  such  an  occasion. 

By  the  bye,  I  hope  to  see  you  in  about  four  weeks,  as  I  pass 
on  to  Washington.  There  I  shall  probably  remain  till  after 
the  inauguration.  I  find  in  the  election  of  General  Taylor  the 
great  fact  indicated  that  we  poor  devils  in  the  army  are  citizens 
of  the  country,  and  eligible  to  civil  offices  of  trust.  I  should 
have  voted  most  cordially  for  General  Cass,  had  I  a  vote  to 
throw.  His  election  I  vastly  preferred.  But  there  has  been  in 
this  canvass  a  vast  deal  of  nonsense  about  the  camp  not  being 
the  place  to  find  our  Presidents,  and  I  am  much  mistaken  if 
General  Taylor,  in  his  own  person,  does  not  prove  a  happy  in- 
stance of  the  mingling  of  military  and  administrative  ability. 
And  those  miserable  hacks  of  party,  who  have  sought  to  depre- 
ciate his  military  services  and  talents,  have  now  the  consolation 
to  reflect  that  their  efforts  at  detraction  served  to  promote  his 
election,  as  it  did  that  of  General  Harrison. 

"  I  unhesitatingly  believe  that  General  Taylor  will  administer 
the  government  in  an  able,  impartial,  and  patriotic  manner,  and 
if  during  his  presidency  an  emergency  arises,  he  will  prove  a 
hero-President  as  he  has  proved  a  hero-soldier.  The  Democratic 
party  ought  not  to  prejudge  him.  Let  them  maintain  a  firm 
attitude  in  Congress,  and  keep  well  organized  everywhere.  The 
Whigs  cannot  carry  any  of  their  favorite  measures  through 
Congress  for  two  years  at  least.     We  may  then  have  a  Demo- 


GENERAL  TAYLOR  237 

cratic  Congress,  and,  my  word  for  it,  there  will  be  no  collision 
between  such  a  Congress  and  General  Taylor.  On  that  great 
cluster  of  questions,  the  public  lands,  the  encouragement  and 
protection  of  distant  settlements,  the  development  of  the  great 
Pacific  coast,  the  old  man  will  be  right.  If  the  Democratic 
party  will  show  candor  and  liberality  towards  General  Taylor, 
he  may  be  their  nominee  four  years  from  this  time." 

As  one  result  of  his  visit  to  Washington,  Major  Stevens 
took  hold  of  the  brevet  pay  question  in  his  usual  thor- 
oughgoing and  indefatigable  manner.  He  first  corre- 
sponded with  every  bre vetted  officer  of  the  corps  whom 
he  had  not  already  consulted  personally.  Having  thus 
learned  their  views,  he  prepared  a  strong  memorial  on 
the  subject,  which,  after  being  submitted  to,  and  warmly 
approved  by,  Colonels  Thayer  and  Mansfield  and  Major 
Tower,  was  sent  to  all  the  officers  for  their  signatures. 
And  in  July  he  transmitted  the  memorial  to  General 
Totten,  signed  by  every  brevetted  officer  of  the  corps 
save  one,  with  an  urgent  letter  asking  his  interposition 
with  the  War  Department  in  their  behalf. 

It  was  the  intention,  in  case  the  department  denied  the 
application,  to  appeal  to  Congress,  but  the  manifest  jus- 
tice of  the  cause  as  presented  was  unanswerable.  The 
department,  after  some  doubts,  concluded  that  it  had  the 
necessary  authority  under  the  law  regulating  brevet  pay, 
and  at  length  the  engineers  were  placed  on  an  equality 
with  the  other  arms  in  this  respect.  His  brother  officers 
conceded  that  the  gratifying  triumph  was  due  to  the  well- 
directed  and  persistent  efforts  of  Major  Stevens,  and  show- 
ered upon  him  their  warm  thanks  and  applause.  This 
success,  however,  was  followed  by  more  and  more  fre- 
quent applications  from  them  and  others  for  assistance 
and  advice  in  their  own  personal  matters.  He  never 
failed  to  expend  his  thought,  energy,  and  time  in  every 
deserving  case  as  promptly  and  freely  as,  ay,  far  more 
than,  if  he  was  working  for  himself,  and  he  never  shunned, 


238  ISAAC  LNGALLS  STEVENS 

nor  complained  of,  these  gratuitous  tasks,  which  in  the 
next  few  years  became  a  great  burden,  but  always  seemed 
to  take  real  pleasure  and  satisfaction  in  helping  others, 
even  many  who  had  little  or  no  claim  upon  him. 

In  April  writes  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  who 
was  stationed  at  West  Point  with  the  engineer  company, 
an  urgent  appeal  to  Major  Stevens  to  use  his  influence  to 
have  the  company  ordered  away  from  the  Point,  and  to 
Fort  Schuyler  :  — 

My  dear  Stevens,  —  The  detachment  of  artillery  (labor- 
ers) stationed  here  are  to  be  transferred  to  the  engineer  com- 
pany,—  at  least  so  many  as  may  be  necessary  to  fill  up  the 
company.  On  our  company  then  will  it  devolve  to  do  all  the 
police  of  the  Point,  to  make  the  roads,  drive  the  carts,  feed  the 
oxen,  work  in  the  blacksmith  and  carpenter  shops,  etc.,  etc., 
—  in  plain  terms,  the  engineer  company  is  destroyed ;  it  has 
become  a  company  of  mud-diggers;  it  will  no  longer  be  an 
engineer  company,  for  it  will  be  impossible  to  do  military 
duty,  and  no  instruction  in  the  duties  of  engineer  troops  can 
be  given  them.  The  object  of  the  whole  business  is  to  get  Sho- 
ver's  company  of  light  artillery  ordered  on  here,  and  we  are 
sacrificed  to  attain  that  object. 

This  is  a  matter  that  concerns  equally  all  the  officers  of  our 
corps.  We  are  disgraced  if  this  order  is  allowed  to  remain 
in  force,  and  I  beg  of  you  to  use  whatever  influence  you  may 
possess  in  Washington  to  have  the  order  rescinded,  and  the 
company  ordered  away  from  here.  I  am  in  haste, 
Truly  your  friend, 

George  B.  McClellan. 

Partly  in  response  to  this  letter,  but  more  to  express 
his  own  views  as  to  the  true  policy  in  regard  to  engineer 
troops,  Major  Stevens  writes  at  length  to  General  Totten. 
It  is  characteristic  that  he  does  not  treat  the  matter  from 
McClellan's  narrow,  personal  standpoint,  but  at  once  ele- 
vates the  whole  subject  to  a  discussion  of  the  require- 
ments of  the  service.     After  referring  to  his  intimate 


ENGINEER  COMPANY  239 

association  with  the  engineer  company  in  its  organiza- 
tion and  in  Mexico,  he  continues :  — - 

"  I  think  every  one  owes  something  to  his  profession.  Some- 
thing is  due  to  my  profession,  not  inferior  certainly  in  dignity 
to  any  other.  I  would  endeavor  to  discharge  it  according  to 
my  ability.  It  will  be  in  this  spirit  that  I  shall  submit  the  fol- 
lowing observations.  In  this  spirit  will  I  from  time  to  time 
communicate  with  the  department  on  this  and  other  topics 
appertaining  to  the  noble  profession  of  arms,  not  doubting  that 
my  suggestions  will  be  kindly  reoeived. 

"  By  law,  the  engineer  company  is  restricted  to  one  hundred 
men,  a  number  entirely  inadequate  even  to  the  duties  of  peace. 
.  .  .  The  remedy  I  would  propose  is  this:  Let  the  utmost  care 
be  exercised  in  enlisting  men.  Let  no  man  be  enlisted  who  can- 
not in  due  course  of  time  be  made  a  non-commissioned  officer. 
Let  there  be  in  no  case  transfers  from  other  branches  of  the  ser- 
vice. Let  the  whole  strength  of  the  officers  of  the  company 
be  applied  to  discipline  and  instruct  the  men,  so  that  in  time 
of  need  we  shall  have  a  band  of  splendid  non-commissioned 
officers,  the  peers  of  Everett  and  Hastings  and  Starr,  —  men 
who  have  received  commissions  for  their  gallant  services  in 
Mexico,  and  each  of  whom,  had  Smith  and  McClellan  and 
Foster  fallen,  could  have  gloriously  led  on  the  company  to  its 
duty. 

"  I  would  propose  a  complete  system  of  practical  instruction 
six  or  seven  months  of  the  year,  sapping,  mining,  and  pontooneer- 
ing,  and  the  whole  subject  of  field-works,  at  some  suitable  place, 
say  Fort  Schuyler,  and  a  course  of  theoretical  instruction  the 
remaining  five  months,  embracing  an  elementary  course  of 
mathematics  (including  drawing,  surveying,  and  the  use  of 
instruments)  and  of  engineering.  There  should  also  be  a  good 
general  and  military  library.  As  regards  the  library,  the  corps 
could  be  applied  to  for  aid,  if  necessary.  I  will  for  one,  and  I 
doubt  not  many  officers  would,  liberally  make  donations. 

"  Even  if  the  engineer  arm  were  increased  to  four  companies, 
which  I  trust  will  be  done  the  next  session  of  Congress,  I  would 
recommend  this  course.  The  fine  practical  education  which 
would  thus  be  secured  would  induce  men  to  enlist.  And  we 
shall  have  the  satisfaction  that  in  the  next  war  with  England, 


240  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  when  the  question  is  to  besiege  Montreal,  Quebec,  and 
Halifax,  our  four  companies  can  be  soon  converted  into  twenty 
companies." 

Ever  since  his  return  from  Mexico,  Major  Stevens  was 
deeply  interested  in  the  reorganization  of  the  army.  Even 
while  so  vigorously  fighting  for  his  corps  in  the  matter 
of  brevet  pay,  in  discussions  and  correspondence  with 
Mansfield,  Mason,  Tower,  G.  W.  Smith,  F.  A.  Smith, 
Beauregard,  Hunt,  and  others,  after  disposing  of  this 
particular  grievance  he  would  enlarge  upon  the  reorgani- 
zation of  the  whole  army,  giving  his  own  ideas,  and 
urging  them  as  a  patriotic  duty,  not  as  members  of  any 
corps,  but  from  the  standpoint  of  the  whole  army,  to 
prepare  memoirs,  or  letters,  giving  their  views. 

He  advocated  an  organization  that  would  admit  of 
fourfold  extension  in  case  of  war ;  the  keeping  of  at  least 
one  third  of  the  troops  in  camps  of  drill  and  instruction 
in  order  to  maintain  the  highest  degree  of  military  know- 
ledge and  discipline;  and  the  raising  of  the  standard 
of  the  rank  and  file,  attracting  thereby  American-born 
young  men  as  soldiers  by  increased  pay,  better  instruc- 
tion, and  greater  opportunities  for  advancement,  even  to 
conferring  commissions  in  meritorious  cases.  These  let- 
ters and  replies,  particularly  a  memoir  by  Hunt  (after- 
wards the  distinguished  general,  Henry  J.  Hunt,  chief  of 
artillery  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac),  are  full  of  inter- 
est and  instruction.  The  army,  with  all  the  improvements 
adopted  in  recent  years,  has  not  yet  reached  the  standard 
set  by  these  patriotic  and  able  young  officers  fifty  years 
ago.  How  Major  Stevens  followed  up  these  preliminary 
efforts  will  appear  hereafter. 


CHAPTEE  XIII 

COAST    SURVEY 

During  the  summer  Professor  A.  D.  Bache,  the  dis- 
tinguished scientist,  chief  of  the  United  States  Coast  Sur- 
vey, found  himself  obliged  to  obtain  a  new  "  assistant  in 
charge  of  the  Coast  Survey  Office/'  the  second  position 
on  the  survey,  in  place  of  Captain  A.  A.  Humphreys,  of 
the  topographical  engineers,  who  under  the  labors  of  that 
office  had  become  broken  down  in  health  and  was  obliged 
to  relinquish  it.  It  was  no  light  tribute  to  the  rising 
reputation  of  Major  Stevens  that  so  wise  and  sagacious  a 
man  as  Professor  Bache,  and  so  excellent  a  judge  of  men, 
should  have  selected  him  out  of  the  whole  army  as  his 
right-hand  assistant  and  executive  officer.  He  tendered 
the  position,  August  7,  in  a  letter  well  calculated  to  ap- 
peal to  a  patriotic  and  ambitious  young  man,  dwelling 
upon  the  important  character  of  the  duties  of  the  office, 
and  the  opportunities  it  afforded  "to  build  up  a  name 
for  executive  ability,"  and  "  to  reflect  credit  upon  the 
corps,"  etc.,  and  stating  that  the  chief  engineer  (General 
Totten  was  an  intimate  friend  of  Professor  Bache)  would 
look  favorably  upon  his  acceptance. 

At  first  Major  Stevens  was  disposed  to  decline  the  post; 
but  after  several  interviews  with  Professor  Bache  in  Cam- 
bridge and  Boston,  he  reluctantly  decided  to  accept  it, 
but  upon  condition  that  he  should  retain  charge  of  the 
Bucksport  works  in  addition  to  the  new  position  for  a 
year  longer,  with  the  right  then  to  retain  either  the  Coast 
Survey  or  Fort  Knox,  as  he  might  prefer,  and  relinquish 


242  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  other.  This  unique  condition,  by  which  an  officer 
about  to  undertake  new  and  arduous  duties  stipulated  to 
retain  also  his  former  ones,  thus  voluntarily  adding  to  his 
labors  instead  of  diminishing  them,  was  at  once  accepted 
by  Professor  Bache  and  agreed  to  by  the  engineer  depart- 
ment, a  convincing  proof  of  the  esteem  in  which  he  was 
held  by  both. 

The  concluding  part  of  the  following  letter  to  his 
brother  Oliver  shows  that  it  was  the  wider  field  for  his 
energies  and  ambition,  the  better  opportunities  for  service 
and  for  putting  in  force  his  ideas  of  reorganizing  the 
army,  of  performing  his  "  duty  to  his  profession,"  that 
really  caused  him  to  accept  the  onerous  position :  — 

My  dear  Brother,  —  I  am  ready  at  once  to  give  you  a 
decided  opinion  as  to  the  course  you  should  pursue,  and  I  know 
it  will  be  in  accordance  with  your  own  judgment. 

Kemain  in  Cambridge  a  year  and  a  half  longer.  Then  go  to 
Boston.  Throw  yourself  into  the  arena  of  the  strongest  men  in 
the  State.  Contend  with  strong  men,  the  stronger  the  better, 
and  rise  above  them  all. 

I  have  watched  your  progress  with  the  anxiety  and  tender 
solicitude  which  an  older  brother  must  feel  in  a  younger  and 
only  brother.     This  is  one  of  the  turning-points  of  your  life. 

I  have  not  the  slightest  doubt,  in  one  year  from  being  ad- 
mitted to  the  bar,  you  will  be  able  to  marry  and  have  a  home 
of  your  own. 

Don't  trouble  yourself  about  the  cost.  If  things  go  right 
with  me  here,  I  have  no  doubt  I  shall  be  able  to  let  you  have, 
from  July,  '50,  to  July,  '51,  all  you  will  require. 

I  write  with  the  earnestness  of  deep  conviction.  I  am  proud 
of  your  talents,  but  you  have  a  weight  of  character  which  gives 
to  talent  its  force.  Let  me  hear  from  you  soon.  I  beg  of  you 
not  to  give  way  to  despondency,  and  the  least  as  to  the  bold 
course  I  have  indicated. 

You  and  I  both  do  best  by  taking  bold,  self-relying  courses. 
I  never  once  failed  in  my  life  from  the  boldness  of  my  course. 
You  will  not. 


COAST  SURVEY  243 

I  feel  I  have  come  to  Washington  at  the  right  time.  The 
Coast  Survey  needs  me  to  overhaul  it.  I  feel  that  the  army 
has  a  representative  in  me  which  it  has  not  had  in  Washington 
in  years.  I  know  my  position,  —  my  strength,  —  and  I  swear 
by  the  Eternal,  to  use  Jackson's  expression,  I  will  put  it  forth. 

In  the  following  he  gives  his  views  on  Coast  Survey  and 
other  matters. 

Washington,  D.  C,  October  22,  1849. 

My  dear  Brother,  —  To-day  I  enter  upon  my  duties.  I 
see  no  particular  difficulty.  There  is  no  need  of  being  a  mere 
office  drudge.  All  the  work  can  be  done  without  any  one's 
breaking  down.  The  Coast  Survey  is  a  large  operation,  and 
the  charge  of  the  office  here  can  be  made  an  agreeable  duty. 
The  responsibility  will  be  considerable.  But  all  details  can  be 
thrown  upon  subordinates.  The  fact  is,  the  work  in  the  world 
has  got  to  be  done.  But  it  can  be  done  by  proper  distribution 
and  arrangement  in  an  easy,  quiet  manner.  This  will  be  my 
study  in  my  new  duties. 

We  shall  have  a  great  session  of  Congress  the  coming  winter. 
The  whole  subject  of  our  communications  with  the  Pacific  will 
be  discussed,  railroad  and  ship  canal  across  the  Isthmus,  —  rail- 
road through  our  own  border.  I  have  no  doubt  Congress  will 
direct  the  necessary  explorations  and  surveys  to  determine  the 
practicability  of  the  various  schemes. 

I  am  now  boarding  at  a  private  house.  But  in  a  few  days  I 
shall  occupy  rooms,  and  take  my  meals  at  one  of  the  public 
houses.  This  is  the  favorite  mode  with  gentlemen  that  can 
afford  it.  A  good  parlor  with  sleeping-room  adjoining,  in  a 
good  situation,  will  cost  me  twenty-five  dollars  per  month,  the 
rooms  being  furnished,  and  provided  with  fuel,  light,  and  attend- 
ance. And  board  simply,  at  the  best  public  houses,  will  cost 
about  twenty  dollars  more.  This  mode  of  living  is  free  and 
easy.  You  go  into  retiracy  when  you  choose,  and  can  again  at 
any  moment  mingle  with  the  crowd. 

I  am  becoming  acquainted  with  our  Maine  and  Massachusetts 
congressmen.  Duncan,  of  Haverhill,  I  find  quite  an  agreeable 
gentleman.  Hamlin,  one  of  the  Maine  senators,  seems  to  be 
quite  a  clever  fellow.  Maine,  however,  has  a  mediocre  repre- 
sentation in  both  branches.     I  was  present  last  evening  at  a 


244  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

reception  at  the  "White  House.  The  President  looks  hardy, 
and  as  though  he  would  survive  the  attacks  that  are  being  made 
upon  him.  His  nonchalance  is  by  many  mistaken  for  vacuity. 
The  old  man  has  an  iron  will  and  most  inflexible  resolution, 
and  I  assure  my  Democratic  friends,  who  say  that  he  is  in  the 
keeping  of  others,  that  before  his  four  years  are  through  they 
will  be  convinced  of  it.  Take  my  opinion  for  what  it  is  worth, 
brother  Oliver. 

The  Democrats,  as  regards  General  Taylor,  are  pursuing  the 
very  course  to  reelect  him.  What  did  the  Whigs  gain  by  repre- 
senting General  Jackson  to  be  in  leading-strings?  Can't  we 
learn  from  our  enemies  ? 

The  Coast  Survey  Office .  was  indeed  "  a  large  opera- 
tion." All  the  maps,  charts,  computations,  drawings, 
printing,  engravings,  instrument-making,  and  business 
administration  of  the  survey  were  done  here  under  the 
management  and  supervision  of  the  assistant  in  charge. 
The  force  immediately  under  him  comprised  from  sixty 
to  seventy  persons,  including  several  army  officers.  The 
office  occupied  a  large  brick  block  of  houses  on  New  Jer- 
sey Avenue,  corner  of  B  Street,  the  house  at  the  northeast 
end  being  the  residence  of  the  professor.  The  Coast 
Survey  now  occupies  the  other  end  of  the  same  square. 

The  first  step  taken  by  the  new  chief  was  to  organize 
the  force  into  separate  bureaus,  each  under  a  responsible 
head,  and  performing  a  particular  branch  of  the  work. 
This  had  not  yet  been  done,  although  the  difficulty, 
or  impossibility,  of  the  head  of  the  office  personally  di- 
recting and  supervising  so  many  employees  singly,  and 
the  details  of  such  multifarious  and  complicated  work, 
was  daily  becoming  more  evident,  and  doubtless  was  the 
prime  cause  of  Captain  Humphreys's  breakdown. 

"  On  entering  on  my  duties,"  he  remarks  in  his  first  report, 
"  I  saw  at  once  that  my  only  hope  of  filling  the  situation,  with 
satisfaction  to  the  survey  and  to  myself,  was  in  at  once  apply- 
ing my  exertions  to  enlarging  and  adapting  the  organization 


COAST  SURVEY  245 

of  the  office  to  the  increasing  wants  of  the  survey.  The  office 
work  would  necessarily  increase  for  two  or  three  years  without 
any  increase  of  field  work.  But  it  was  manifest  that  the  field 
work  of  the  survey  itself  must  increase,  and  thus  involve  a  still 
greater  increase  of  office  work." 

Accordingly  he  established  the  Departments  of  Engrav- 
ing, Drawing,  Computing,  Publication  and  Distribution 
of  Maps,  Archives  and  Library,  and  Correspondence. 
To  these  were  soon  added  Electro-plating,  Printing,  and 
Instrument-making.  The  best-fitted  men  were  selected 
from  the  force,  or  new  assistants  were  employed  and  put 
in  charge  of  the  departments.  The  arrears  of  work  were 
rapidly  brought  up;  the  geographical  data  were  collected 
and  indexed ;  the  registry  of  land  work  was  improved ; 
volumes  of  observations  were  bound ;  and  the  register, 
two  years  behind,  was  brought  up  to  date.  In  his  first 
report,  the  new  assistant  in  charge  announced  that  the 
Drawing  Department  would  be  up  to  the  wants  of  the 
survey  in  one  year,  and  made  many  useful  recommenda- 
tions for  the  improvement  of  the  service. 

Professor  Bache  warmly  acknowledged  the  efficiency 
of  his  young  assistant  in  his  reports.  December  5,  1851, 
he  declares :  — 

"  For  the  development  of  the  plans  of  office  work,  the  urging 
to  completion  the  list  of  geographical  positions,  and  the  in- 
creased rapidity  of  publication,  the  Coast  Survey  is  indebted 
mainly  to  the  zeal  and  industry,  guided  by  knowledge  and 
intelligence,  of  Brevet-Major  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  of  the  corps  of 
engineers,  in  acknowledging  which,  in  connection  with  the 
remarks  on  the  speedy  completion  of  the  results  of  the  survey, 
I  feel  that  I  am  doing  simply  an  act  of  justice. 

"  Every  department  of  the  office  has,  under  his  able  super- 
vision, continued  to  improve,  and  has  filled  the  full  measure 
required  by  the  increasing  number,  amount,  and  variety  of  re- 
sults returned  by  the  field  work  of  the  coast.  It  is  due  to  Major 
Stevens  to  acknowledge  the  promptness  which  is  secured  in  the 


246  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

publication  of  results,  and  the  maturing  of  a  system  by  which 
sketches  and  preliminary  work  of  charts  are  made  in  every 
case  to  precede  the  more  finished  work,  furnishing  valuable 
results  to  the  navigator  as  soon  as  obtained  by  the  survey. 

"  The  rapid  execution  of  the  engraved  charts  of  the  Western 
coast  reconnoissance  is  a  proof  of  the  perfection  of  this  organi- 
zation, and  of  the  zeal  of  those  who  administer  it.  Three  well- 
executed  sheets  of  reconnoissance  were  engraved  and  ready  for 
publication  within  twenty  working  days  after  the  beginning  of 
the  engraving. " 

During  Captain  Humphreys's  illness  the  work  had 
fallen  greatly  in  arrears;  many  of  the  employees  had 
become  careless  and  idle,  some  of  them  dissipated;  and 
great  disorder  and  confusion  prevailed.  It  was  common 
report  that  the  Coast  Survey  was  the  worst-conducted 
office  in  Washington.  Major  Stevens  set  himself  to  cor- 
rect this  state  of  things  with  a  vigor,  at  times  a  sever- 
ity, that  admitted  no  delay  and  brooked  no  opposition. 
Strict  punctuality,  prompt  compliance  with  orders,  and 
complete  and  exact  performance  of  duty,  he  required  and 
exacted  with  military  discipline.  There  was  great  discon- 
tent and  indignation  among  the  old  officers  and  employees, 
and  no  little  ridicule  at  the  idea  of  the  young  major 
enforcing  army  rule  in  a  scientific  institution.  Even  the 
professor  feared  he  was  carrying  it  too  far,  and  rather 
pettishly  remarked,  "  Since  Major  Stevens  took  hold, 
there  has  been  a  continual  jingling  of  bells  all  over  the 
building,  but  I  suppose  it  won't  do  to  interfere  with 
these  army  officers."  It  seems  that  Major  Stevens  had 
caused  bells  to  be  placed  in  the  various  offices  with  wires 
running  to  his  own  room,  so  that  he  could  summon  his 
subordinates  without  delay  when  he  wished  to  see  them. 

But  the  new  assistant  pursued  the  course  he  had 
marked  out  unswervingly,  without  fear  and  without  favor. 
He  summarily  dismissed  several  of  the  worst  offenders. 
Others  he  degraded  in  pay  or  position.     He  made  him- 


COAST  SURVEY  247 

self  master  of  every  branch  and  detail  of  that  great 
institution.  The  old  computers,  engravers,  draughtsmen, 
topographers,  and  others,  who  had  passed  years  in  the 
office,  were  astonished  to  find  that  the  new  chief  fully 
understood  their  technical  work,  and  was  watching, 
criticising,  and  directing  it  with  expert  skill  and  judg- 
ment. As  usual,  he  took  a  warm  interest  in  the  men 
under  his  charge,  ever  ready  to  encourage  and  reward 
the  deserving,  and  to  assist  them  in  their  personal  affairs. 
He  caused  one  of  the  messengers,  who  had  lost  both  arms 
in  an  explosion,  to  learn  to  write  with  his  foot,  and  gave 
him  copying  to  do  to  eke  out  his  scanty  pay.  One  of 
the  higher  employees  was  addicted  to  periodical  attacks 
of  intemperance  utterly  beyond  his  power  to  resist,  but 
otherwise  was  a  respectable  and  useful  man.  Major 
Stevens  quietly  told  this  gentleman  to  come  to  him  when- 
ever he  felt  one  of  these  attacks  coming  on  too  strong 
for  him  to  withstand,  and  he  should  have  a  leave  of 
absence  for  a  few  days,  enough  to  have,  and  recover 
from,  his  spree,  and  on  this  footing  he  continued  on  the 
survey  for  years. 

Under  his  firm,  masterful,  and  exacting  but  generous 
treatment  the  outraged  feelings  of  the  office  soon  changed. 
They  could  not  but  respect  a  chief  who,  if  he  required 
good  and  full  work,  appreciated  and  acknowledged  it; 
and  their  respect  changed  to  admiration,  and  finally  to 
affection,  when  they  saw  how  he  was  building  up  the 
efficiency  and  reputation  of  the  office,  and  realized  that 
his  strict  rule  was  characterized  by  justice  and  impar- 
tiality, and  tempered  by  the  kindness  of  a  warm-hearted 
and  generous  man.  Professor  Bache  found  in  his  new 
assistant  not  only  relief  from  the  cares  of  the  office  and 
of  administration,  but  one  whose  ideas  in  most  subjects 
agreed  with  his  own,  and  whose  strong,  bright,  and  well- 
instructed  mind  could  travel  with  his  own  through  other 


248  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

fields.  A  warm  and  generous  friendship  grew  up  between 
them,  which  lasted  unbroken  during  life. 

The  task  he  had  undertaken  at  the  Coast  Survey  made 
this  a  very  laborious  winter  for  Major  Stevens,  but  one 
that  gratified  his  ambition  for  public  service.  He  met 
many  of  his  brother  officers,  "  the  men  of  Mexico,"  and 
discussed  with  them  the  questions  of  army  reorganization, 
fortifications,  etc.  He  also  made  the  acquaintance  of 
members  of  Congress,  and  freely  impressed  upon  them 
his  views  of  these  measures.  General  Shields  was  now 
a  senator  from  Illinois,  and  was  always  ready  to  adopt 
and  advocate  the  ideas  of  the  young  major  of  engineers, 
and  was  glad  of  his  aid  in  preparing  his  reports  and  bills. 
Always  and  emphatically  a  national  man,  believing  that 
the  preservation  of  the  Union  was  essential  to  liberty 
and  national  existence,  Major  Stevens  took  great  interest 
in  the  compromise  measures  so  ably  carried  through  by 
Henry  Clay,  in  support  of  which  Webster  delivered  his 
noted  7th  of  March  speech,  and  fully  approved  the  mea- 
sures of  these  great  statesmen  to  allay  sectional  strife  and 
preserve  the  Union. 

The  plans  and  hopes  of  the  Southern  leaders  were 
cruelly  disappointed  by  the  action  of  California,  which 
adopted  a  free  constitution,  and  knocked  at  the  doors  of 
Congress  for  admission  as  a  free  State.  Consequently 
they  refused  her  admission  unless  additional  safeguards 
were  thrown  around  the  "  peculiar  institution,"  as  slavery 
was  termed ;  and  many  of  the  fire-eaters  openly  advocated 
disunion  as  the  only  means  of  preserving  it  against  the 
free  ideas  of  the  North,  and  the  preponderating  increase 
of  free  States.  For  a  time  the  difference  seemed  irre- 
concilable, and  disunion  and  civil  war  imminent ;  but  at 
length,  by  the  wise  counsels  of  Clay,  Webster,  and  the 
more  broad-minded  men  of  both  sides,  a  compromise  was 
effected,  and  California  entered  the  Union  a  free  State. 


COAST  SURVEY  249 

The  old  Puritan  in  Andover,  in  his  abhorrence  of  sla- 
very, condemned  all  compromise,  and  writes  the  son  he 
so  much  loved  and  admired  a  pathetic  and  reproachful 
letter,  marked,  too,  by  a  sublime  faith  in  the  ultimate 
triumph  of  right :  — 

Dear  Son,  —  I  have  been  confined  to  the  house  since  the 
22d  of  last  November,  but  am  now  very  well,  excepting  a  weak 
leg.  I  have  thought  much  of  my  daughters  duriug  my  sick- 
ness, especially  of  the  two  youngest,  who  were  ever  ready  to 
wait  upon  me  by  night  or  day.  ...  I  was  sorry  you  should 
so  much  commend  D.  Webster's  speech,  and  thought  no  man 
could  commend  it  who  was  opposed  to  slavery.  I  do  think 
Webster  to  be  a  demagogue ;  that  he  is  so  lost  to  every  good 
principle  as  to  court  slaveholders'  approbation,  and  vote  shame 
on  the  descendants  of  the  men  of  '75. 

I  believe  the  great  Being  who  rules  the  destinies  of  nations 
has  ordained  that  we  remain  united,  that  we  extend  the  area  of 
freedom,  not  slavery,  that  other  nations  may  copy  our  example, 
—  too  late  in  the  day  for  Liberty  to  take  a  backward  march  in 
our  country,  however  much  she  may  swing  to  and  fro  in  the  old 
country. 

Isaac  Stevens. 

His  wife  and  family  remained  in  Bucksport  during  the 
winter,  not  wishing  to  break  up  the  comfortable  home 
until  he  decided  to  remain  on  the  Coast  Survey  perma- 
nently. Early  in  April  he  visited  Bucksport,  where,  on 
the  28th  of  that  month,  a  daughter  was  born  to  them, 
named  Gertrude  Maude. 

This  winter  Major  Stevens's  wound  broke  out  afresh, 
and  discharged  several  small  fragments  of  bone,  causing 
considerable  suffering  and  much  inconvenience.  This 
recurred  several  times  during  his  stay  in  Washington, 
and  it  was  over  four  years  before  the  wound  permanently 
healed.  Sometimes,  when  walking,  his  foot  would  give 
out  entirely,  and  he  would  have  to  hail  the  nearest  omni- 
bus or  carriage.     He   used   to  wear  a  shoe  with  very 


250  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

thick  soles,  which  best  protected  and  served  the  injured 
member. 

A  letter  to  Professor  Bache,  written  from  Newport 
while  on  his  way  to  Bucksport,  shows  that  he  had 
decided  at  this  time  to  relinquish  the  Coast  Survey,  a 
decision  which  he  afterwards  reconsidered  :  — 

.  .  .  "  In  Baltimore  I  met  Colonel  Lee  and  Captain  Foster. 
Colonel  Lee  was  kind  enough  to  go  over  my  article  on  the 
Mexican  war.  His  suggestions  and  criticisms  will  very  much 
improve  the  article.  The  colonel  thinks  I  have  made  a  mistake 
in  determining  not  to  remain  on  the  survey. 

"  I  saw  General  Scott  in  New  York.  He  went  over  many  of 
the  operations  in  the  valley,  and  you  may  be  assured  it  was  a 
great  pleasure  for  me  to  meet  my  old  chief. 

"  I  need  not  say  to  you  how  very  gratifying  to  me  was  your 
letter  in  reply  to  mine  communicating  my  intention  to  retire 
from  the  survey ;  and  in  answer  to  the  concluding  paragraph, 
you  may  rely  upon  me  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  respond  to  your 
wishes.  I  have  been  growing  stronger  every  day  since  I  left 
Washington.  I  hope  to  return  in  condition  to  do  more  satis- 
factory service  than  was  in  my  power  for  some  weeks  previous 
to  my  leaving." 

So  it  would  seem  that  his  hard  work  and  close  appli- 
cation were  telling  upon  his  health  and  strength. 

In  the  spring  he  moved  his  family  to  Newport  for  the 
summer.  In  August  he  paid  off  four  hundred  dollars 
of  the  debt  on  the  Bucksport  house.  Plain,  simple,  and 
even  frugal  in  personal  habits  and  expenses,  and  careful 
in  money  matters,  he  saved  this  sum  from  his  pay.  Yet 
he  never  cared  for  money-making;  and  notwithstanding 
the  straitened  circumstances  of  early  life,  and  the  les- 
sons of  economy  so  diligently  inculcated  by  his  father, 
he  was  very  generous,  a  free  giver,  a  great  provider,  and 
inclined  to  spend  money  freely. 

He  was  obliged  to  spend  most  of  the  summer  in  Wash- 
ington, making  occasional  visits  North  to  look  after  the 


COAST  SURVEY  251 

Bucksport  works  and  see  his  family.  He  now  definitely 
decided  to  stay  on  the  Coast  Survey.  After  a  short  visit 
at  Newport  in  August,  he  returned  to  Washington,  and 
spent  no  little  time  during  the  next  month  in  hunting 
up  suitable  quarters.  How  thoroughly  sick  and  tired  he 
was  of  being  separated  from  his  wife  and  children ;  how 
he  longed  to  live  united  with  them  ;  how  lofty  and  noble 
were  his  ideals  of  woman,  of  marriage,  of  duty,  of  ambi- 
tion ;  and  what  success  he  was  gaining  on  the  survey, 
—  are  graphically  depicted  in  his  letters  to  his  wife  :  — 

Washington,  September  5, 1850. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  I  began  to-day  seeking  for  a  board- 
ing-house. I  find  great  objection  is  made  to  children  coming 
to  table.  I  think  a  great  deal  of  our  children  taking  their 
meals  with  us,  and  I  think  I  had  rather  go  to  the  second  table 
myself  than  to  be  deprived  of  the  pleasure.  .  .  . 

I  regret  I  did  not  remain  a  week  longer.  I  found  on  reach- 
ing Washington  that  there  was  no  necessity  for  my  hurrying 
back.  We  should  all  of  us  have  enjoyed  the  bathing.  It  is 
mighty  lonesome  here,  particularly  from  sundown  till  about 
eight  in  the  morning.  It  spoils  a  man  on  some  accounts  to  be 
married,  particularly  if  he  gets  a  good,  lovable  wife.  He  is 
not  good  for  much  away  from  her.  I  assure  you  I  will  never 
be  separated  from  you  again  another  winter  unless  it  is  an 
absolute  impossibility  for  us  to  be  together.  We  are  young, 
and  let  us  not  renounce  the  comfort  and  support  of  each  other's 
society  unless  the  necessity  is  imperative.  I  know  you  will 
say  amen  to  this.  .  .  . 

Washington,  Saturday,  September  6, 1850. 
My  dear  Wife,  —  .  .  .  A  devoted,  loving,  tender,  sympa- 
thizing wife  is  the  greatest  element  of  my  success  in  life.  It 
adds  to  my  strength  in  all  respects.  Think  of  this,  Margaret. 
If  I  achieve  what  may  be  truly  called  success,  it  will  be  due 
mainly  to  you.  I  have  no  desire  for  place,  or  wealth,  or  station. 
But  should  I  do  something  for  my  kind,  should  it  be  said  of  me 
when  I  am  gone  that  the  world  owes  something  to  my  memory, 
that  my  fellow-men  are  happier  and  better  for  my  labors,  this 


252  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

is  what  I  call  success.  It  can  be  achieved  only  by  constancy, 
by  nobility  of  purpose,  by  a  self-sacrificing  spirit.  Your  exam- 
ple and  your  affection  for  me  will  help  me  to  cultivate  these 
virtues. 

Yesterday  the  House  passed  by  ten  votes  the  Texas  Boundary 
and  the  New  Mexico  Territorial  Bill.  You  cannot  imagine  the 
gratulation  which  was  shown  by  all  persons,  both  in  and  out  of 
Congress,  when  the  result  was  announced.  The  feeling  was 
that  all  the  danger  which  had  menaced  us  had  been  averted. 
If  necessary,  a  great  many  members  would  have  changed  their 
votes.  On  Wednesday  the  measure  was  defeated  by  a  majority 
of  forty-six  votes ;  on  Thursday  by  a  majority  of  eight  votes ; 
and  yesterday  it  passed  by  a  majority  of  ten.  All  the  other 
measures  will  be  rapidly  pushed  through,  and  Congress  will 
rise  early  next  month. 

In  my  judgment  the  most  dangerous  crisis  that  has  occurred 
since  the  foundation  of  the  government  has  been  happily  passed. 
Henry  Clay  has  been  throughout  the  master  spirit  of  the  times. 
His  services  the  present  session  are  enough  to  immortalize  his 
name.  It  is  the  crowning  triumph  of  his  civic  life,  and  he  will 
descend  to  posterity  as  one  of  the  heroes  and  benefactors  of  his 
age  and  generation.  He  has  not  his  peer  in  Congress.  No 
man  that  combines  his  intrepid  soul,  his  extended  views,  his 
large  American  heart,  his  admirable  tact  and  presence  of  mind, 
and  that  quality  of  leadership  which  enables  him  through  doubt 
and  defection,  in  spite  of  unexpected  difficulties  and  notwith- 
standing repeated  defeats,  to  undauntedly  pursue  his  course 
and  finally  achieve  the  ultimate  triumph.  This  is  Henry  Clay 
in  his  seventy-fifth  year.  He  has  not  his  peer  in  our  whole 
parliamentary  history. 

Sunday,  September  8.  Yesterday  the  California  and  Utah 
bills  passed  the  House.  Last  evening  a  salute  of  one  hundred 
guns  was  fired,  and  a  large  multitude  assembled  in  front  of  the 
National  to  listen  to  a  serenade  to  Henry  Clay.  But  the  glori- 
ous old  man  had  gone  out  to  enjoy  a  quiet  Sunday  in  the  coun- 
try, and  was  not  to  be  seen. 

Little  Sue  must,  I  know,  miss  me  very  much.  She  is  a  great 
pet  of  mine.  I  never  feel  as  if  I  could  be  put  out  with  her,  let 
her  be  ever  so  whimsical.     Tell  Sue  she  shall  see  her  papa  in  a 


COAST  SURVEY  253 

few  weeks,  and  then  we  shall  keep  together  for  many  months. 
Our  long  separation,  dearest  wife,  is  drawing  to  a  close,  and  we 
shall  be  again  united.  My  last  visit  was  an  oasis  in  the  desert. 
I  saw  the  doctor  in  relation  to  my  sore  throat.  He  says  it 
has  very  much  improved.  The  only  precaution  I  must  take  is 
not  to  expose  myself  to  the  night  air.  My  general  health  is 
quite  good,  and  is  still  growing  even  better.  My  foot  gives  me 
very  little  trouble.  It  has  not  been  so  strong  for  eight  months 
as  for  the  last  ten  days.  I  now  am  not  obliged  to  make  much 
use  of  the  crutches.  You  may  be  sure  I  feel  very  much  en- 
couraged about  my  health,  and  I  have  no  fears  as  to  its  being 
perfectly  reestablished.  I  eat  well,  sleep  well,  and  am  not 
worried  by  work.  Remember  me,  my  dear  wife,  to  all  the 
friends.     Kiss  the  little  Sue  and  Maude. 

Your  ever  affectionate  husband. 


Washington,  September  29,  1850. 

My  deakest  Wife,  —  You  must  not  think  I  have  forgotten 
you.  I  have  been  very  much  occupied  the  last  few  days.  Our 
appropriations  were  in  danger,  and  both  Professor  Bache  and 
myself  have  been  hard  at  work  to  save  them.  We  have  carried 
everything,  —  secured  no  less  than  one  hundred  and  ninety 
thousand  dollars  for  the  Western  coast. 

A  portion  of  this  appropriation  we  carried  in  the  House  in 
the  teeth  of  the  Committee  of  Ways  and  Means.  They  opposed 
it  vehemently,  yet  we  went  to  work  on  Friday,  worked  hard  all 
day,  and  carried  it  two  to  one  nearly  against  them. 

The  professor  is  in  one  respect  a  most  skillful  manager,  but 
his  skill  consists  in  his  perfect  directness,  truthfulness,  dis- 
interestedness, and  good  temper.  He  is  perfectly  frank  and 
open.  Margaret,  such  men  have  most  influence  with  all  men  of 
sense,  whether  members  of  Congress,  or  men  in  official  station, 
or  in  private  life.  This  is  the  secret  of  his  getting  along  so 
well.  You  know  I  have  always  insisted  that  such  a  course  was 
the  most  sure  and  reliable.  You  stand  on  the  solid  rock,  and 
nothing  can  move  you  when  you  cast  aside  all  intrigue  and  low 
cunning,  and  pursue  an  open,  truthful,  manly  course.  Cun- 
ning men  cannot  cope  with  you.     This  is  my  experience. 

My  duties  in  the  office  are  becoming  more  and  more  pleasant. 


264  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

The  office  is  becoming  systematized,  the  back  work  is  all  coming 
up,  and  in  the  spring  I  have  no  doubt  everything  will  be  in  the 
best  possible  condition. 

Every  department  is  improving,  and  a  very  fine  spirit  per- 
vades all  the  employees.  I  am  bringing  to  bear  upon  the  men 
my  personal  weight,  and  you  know  I  rarely  ever  fail  whenever 
I  am  brought  into  direct  personal  contact  with  men.  All  the 
men  are  beginning  to  know  me.  They  know  I  am  firm  and 
steadfast,  but  that  I  am  as  true  to  them  as  I  am  to  the  work 
itself.  Every  man  will  find  that  he  can  have  entire  confidence 
in  my  justice,  and  in  my  judgment  of  his  merits.  I  am  deter- 
mined to  be  deserving  of  their  confidence,  and,  if  so,  I  shall 
most  assuredly  gain  it. 

The  professor's  confidence  in  me  seems  to  be  greater  every 
day.  This  makes  my  position  pleasant.  It  makes  me  more 
efficient.  My  judgment  is  all  the  clearer  for  it.  The  truth  is, 
I  take  the  same  general  view  of  things  that  he  does,  and  my 
judgment  almost  invariably  brings  me  to  the  same  conclusions. 
Thus,  in  operating  to  secure  our  appropriations,  we  agreed  per- 
fectly in  the  mode  of  proceeding.  Indeed,  the  professor  left 
the  management  entirely  to  me  in  the  first  instance.  When 
things  were  prepared  for  him,  I  sent  an  express  to  his  camp  to 
bring  him  in.  All  my  arrangements  entered  admirably  into 
his  plans.  This  was  pleasant.  My  part  was,  of  course,  a  sub- 
ordinate one,  but  it  was  in  harmony  with  all  that  was  done. 

In  the  latter  part  of  1849  appeared  the  "  History  of 
the  Mexican  War,"  by  Major  Roswell  S.  Ripley,  of  the 
1st  artillery,  who  had  served  in  Scott's  campaign,  and 
who  had  been  given  a  year's  leave  of  absence  to  enable 
him  to  write  the  work.  The  history  is  fairly  well  written, 
and  accurate  for  the  most  part,  but  marred  by  the  con- 
stant effort  to  depreciate  the  character  and  services  of 
General  Scott,  and  to  extol  Generals  Worth  and  Pillow 
at  his  expense.  The  former  of  these  officers,  a  fine  sol- 
dier, and  deservedly  of  high  standing  in  the  army  and 
before  the  people,  needed  no  encomiums ;  the  latter  was 
unworthy  of  them.      Some  of  Ripley's  statements,  too, 


COAST  SURVEY  255 

were  deemed  erroneous  by  many  of  the  ablest  officers  who 
participated  in  the  contest,  and  there  was  a  strong  senti- 
ment among  them  that  these  errors  ought  to  be  exposed, 
and  the  truth  vindicated  before  the  public.  None  felt 
this  sentiment  more  strongly  than  Major  Stevens.  An 
admirer  of  Scott's  military  talents,  and  a  member  of  his 
staff  during  the  famous  campaign,  his  sense  of  justice 
and  truth  outraged  by  the  attempt  to  disparage  the  gen- 
eral's great  services,  and  to  heap  unearned  honors  upon 
Pillow,  he  deemed  it  his  duty,  even  in  the  midst  of  his 
arduous  labors  at  the  Coast  Survey,  to  give  to  the  world  a 
true  and  just  account  of  these  events,  thus  defending  his 
former  chief,  and  vindicating  the  truth  of  history. 

He  labored  upon  this  work  with  his  usual  energy  and 
thoroughness,  submitted  it  in  manuscript  to  Mason,  Mans- 
field, Robert  E.  Lee,  and  other  officers,  by  whom  it  was 
highly  approved,  and  early  in  1851  published  his  "  Cam- 
paigns of  the  Rio  Grande  and  of  Mexico."  In  the  preface 
he  says :  — 

"  His  object  in  appearing  before  the  public  was  to  testify  to 
the  services  of  those  heroic  officers  and  soldiers  who  were  in  his 
judgment  depreciated  in  the  work  of  Major  Ripley.  He  felt 
impelled  to  this  course  by  a  sense  of  duty,  and  he  appeals  to 
all  the  actors  in  those  scenes  to  bear  testimony  in  vindication 
of  the  truth." 

It  is  a  strange  instance  of  the  foibles  of  a  really  great 
man  that  this  work,  inspired  by  the  noblest  and  most  dis- 
interested motives,  and  the  ablest  defense  of  Scott's  course 
in  Mexico,  was  the  cause  of  an  estrangement  for  years 
between  the  writer  and  the  commander  he  so  well  vindi- 
cated. Immediately  on  the  publication  of  the  book,  Major 
Stevens  presented  General  Scott  with  a  copy  with  his  com- 
pliments, fully  expecting  the  warm  thanks  and  apprecia- 
tion of  his  former  chief.  To  his  astonishment,  a  few  days 
later  General  Scott  returned  the  book  by  the  hands  of 


256  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

General  Totten,  with  the  message  that  Major  Stevens  was 
to  observe  that  the  leaves  were  still  uncut,  thus  implying 
that  he  disdained  even  to  read  it.  This  affront  he  offered 
to  the  officer  whom  for  bravery  and  services  in  Mexico 
he  had  highly  commended  and  recommended  for  brevets, 
whose  advice  he  had  listened  to  in  councils  of  war  and 
followed  on  the  battlefield,  whom,  hand  upon  his  shoul- 
der, he  had  presented  to  the  shouting  multitude  in 
Washington  as  c  My  young  friend,  Major  Stevens,  to 
whose  courage  and  ability  I  owe  much  of  my  success 
in  Mexico,'  and  who  was  his  warmest  and  ablest  defender 
against  the  aspersions  of  his  enemies. 

Whether  General  Scott,  whose  overweening  vanity 
could  ill  brook  the  least  criticism,  was  inflamed  by  some 
remark  in  the  work,  which  seems  incredible,  or  whether 
his  mind  was  poisoned  by  one  of  those  parasites  that  ever 
hang  upon  the  great,  is  uncertain.  In  truth,  his  move- 
ments and  entire  course  are  highly  commended,  and  in 
only  a  few  instances  is  he  criticised.  Major  Stevens  pro- 
nounced his  attack  of  Molino  del  Rey  a  mistake,  and  also 
the  not  insisting  upon  the  surrender  of  Chapultepec  when 
the  armistice  was  granted  after  the  battle  of  Churubusco. 
Major  Stevens  was  not  in  the  least  cast  down  by  this 
unwarranted  rebuff.  He  simply  pitied  the  foibles  of  the 
man,  while  he  retained  his  admiration  for  the  general's 
military  talents.  He  always  made  it  a  point  to  call  upon 
him  on  New  Year's,  and  to  show  him  the  respect  due  the 
head  of  the  army.  But  the  cordial  personal  relations  were 
broken  forever. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

LIFE    IN   WASHINGTON 

In  October,  1850,  Major  Stevens  moved  his  wife  and 
little  ones  to  Washington,  and  took  quarters  at  Mrs.  Kel- 
ley's  on  Eighteenth  Street,  opposite  Lafayette  Square,  in 
a  large,  spacious  brick  house,  known  as  the  club-house. 
Here  also  lived  General  Talcott,  of  the  ordnance,  Colo- 
nel Ethan  Allen  Hitchcock,  Senator  McWillie,  of  Missis- 
sippi, and  Representative  Burt,  of  South  Carolina,  with 
their  families,  and  Commodore  Matthew  C.  Perry,  soon  to 
become  famous  for  opening  Japan  to  the  commerce  and 
intercourse  of  the  world.  The  latter  took  a  great  fancy 
to  the  little  Sue,  a  sprightly,  graceful  child,  and  used  to 
keep  a  store  of  candy  in  his  room  for  her  especial  benefit. 
They  were  all  cultivated  and  agreeable  people,  who  lived 
together  harmoniously  and  pleasantly,  and  with  social 
calls,  receptions,  and  parties  the  winter  passed  off  rapidly. 
They  enjoyed,  too,  the  pleasant  intimacy  and  cordial 
sympathy  of  their  Portsmouth  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Hayes,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Coues,  who  were  now  living  in 
Washington. 

During  this  winter  Major  Stevens  took  up  the  fourteen 
years'  bill,  a  measure  to  promote  lieutenants  of  engineers, 
topographical  engineers,  and  ordnance  to  the  rank  of  cap- 
tain after  fourteen  years'  service,  with  the  same  energy  and 
thoroughness  that  characterized  his  efforts  to  procure  for 
officers  on  duty  according  to  brevet  rank  the  full  pay  of 
such  rank.  He  first  induced  the  officers  of  these  corps  in 
Washington  to  agree  upon  the  proposed  bill,  and  to  unite 


258  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

in  actively  supporting  it,  no  small  task,  for  there  was  much 
jealousy  between  them,  and  different  schemes  for  benefit- 
ing one  or  another  corps.  How  he  enlisted  the  coopera- 
tion of  officers  at  other  stations  will  be  seen  from  the 
following  letter  to  Lieutenant  M.  C.  Meiggs,  afterwards 
major-general  and  quartermaster-general  of  the  army:  — 

Dear  Meiggs,  —  The  inclosed  memorial,  asking  that  lieu- 
tenants of  engineers,  topographical  engineers,  and  ordnance  be 
promoted  to  the  rank  of  captain  after  fourteen  years'  service, 
was  introduced  into  the  Senate  yesterday  and  referred  to  the 
Military  Committee. 

We  are  all  of  us  determined  to  do  our  best  to  get  this  mea- 
sure through.  We  are  all  acting  with  great  unanimity.  The 
idea  is  not  to  touch  the  question  of  the  increase  of  either  corps, 
or  the  equalization  of  the  third  corps.  It  is  simply  a  measure 
of  relief  for  the  old  lieutenants,  and  we  ask  for,  it  for  the 
reasons  stated  in  the  memorial. 

We  must  urge  the  measure  especially  on  the  ground  that 
there  is  no  characteristic  duty  for  the  particular  grades,  but 
that  with  the  proposed  promotion  not  only  will  all  our  captains, 
but  many  of  the  lieutenants,  have  the  same  duties  essentially  as 
field  officers. 

The  chiefs  of  our  three  corps  have  been  consulted  and 
approve  our  course.  The  Secretary  of  War  is  also  favorable 
and  advises  us  to  this  action.  General  Shields  will  strongly 
support  it. 

Every  man  must  help  in  this  business,  if  he  approves  of  it. 
The  committee  desires  each  officer  to  correspond  without  delay 
with  such  members  of  Congress  as  he  personally  knows,  and  lay 
before  them  at  length  the  grounds  why  this  measure  of  relief 
should  become  a  law. 

Let  me  hear  from  you  soon,  and  let  us  all  put  our  shoulders 
to  the  wheel.  If  each  officer  can  carry  conviction  to  the  under- 
standing of  one  member  of  Congress,  the  measure  will  prevail. 

His  friend,  General  Shields,  then  senator  from  Illinois, 
presented  the  memorial  and  advocated  the  bill  in  the  Sen- 
ate with  hearty  goodwill.    The  young  major  of  engineers 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  259 

lost  no  suitable  opportunity  of  impressing  other  members 
with  the  justice  of  the  measure,  and  his  earnest  and  for- 
cible language,  straightforward  sincerity,  and  rising 
reputation  for  character  and  ability  made  him  always 
listened  to  with  attention  and  respect.  He  enjoyed  the 
satisfaction  of  seeing  the  bill  become  a  law  in  1853, 
and  of  receiving  the  well-earned  thanks  and  plaudits  of 
his  brother  officers. 

The  subject  of  the  reorganization  of  the  army,  which 
ever  since  the  Mexican  war  held  first  place  in  his  thoughts 
and  correspondence,  now  engrossed  his  attention  more 
than  ever.  His  enlarged  views,  patriotic  spirit,  and  gen- 
erous nature  abhorred  the  personal  and  corps  jealousies 
too  rife  among  army  officers.  He  was  emphatically  an 
army  man,  not  a  corps  man,  seeking  the  best  for  the 
whole  army  and  the  country,  and  not  the  advancement 
of  his  corps  or  himself.  Accordingly  he  corresponded  on 
this  subject  with  officers  of  every  branch  of  the  service, 
and  especially  with  those  who  had  served  on  the  frontier ; 
for  he  rightly  foresaw  that  the  most  important  duties 
devolving  upon  the  army  would  be  the  exploration  of  the 
vast  regions  acquired  by  the  Mexican  war,  and  the  pro- 
tection of  the  settlers  thereon.  By  this  correspondence 
he  sought  to  draw  out  and  gather  the  views  of  the  ablest 
and  most  experienced  officers,  in  order  to  unite  them  upon, 
and  to  formulate,  a  sound  scheme  of  army  reorganization, 
and  to  impress  it  upon  the  country  and  Congress.  He 
wrote  very  many  letters  setting  forth  his  own  views,  and 
urging  other  officers  to  treat  upon  one  or  another  branch 
of  the  subject,  or  to  pursue  some  line  of  inquiry,  and 
called  upon  them  freely  to  look  up  authorities  and  collect 
information.  Thus  he  induced  Major  H.  J.  Hunt  to  pre- 
pare valuable  papers  upon  artillery  and  army  reorganiza- 
tion in  general.  He  begs  Captain  Kendrick  to  prepare  a 
memoir  on  the  New  Mexico  military  problem ;  Lieutenant- 


260  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Colonel  W.  J.  Hardee,  on  the  defense  of  the  frontier; 
Captain  G.  W.  Smith,  on  "  General  Camp  of  Discipline, 
where  all  the  army  come  together  to  learn  the  military 
art ;  "  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  on  engineer  troops ; 
Captain  G.  W.  Cullum,  subject  of  military  instruction ; 
and  others.  Most  of  these  officers  responded  readily  and 
favorably  to  his  appeals.  In  the  following  letters  his 
ideas  are  clearly  stated :  — 

My  dear  Hunt,  —  We  must  move  quietly  as  well  as  firmly 
in  this  matter  [army  reorganization].  We  must  make  up  our 
minds  to  encounter  a  violent  opposition.  The  bureaucracy  of 
Washington  will  probably  be  against  us.  We  should  first 
endeavor  to  get  their  aid,  at  least  their  neutrality  in  whole  or 
in  part.  If  they  combine  against  reform,  we  must  resolve  to 
accomplish  reform  in  spite  of  them.  But  time  is  necessary.  A 
right  direction  to  public  opinion  is  necessary.  Many  men  in 
Congress,  the  able  men,  must  understand  the  question  and  be 
ready  to  act.  We  must  first,  then,  enlighten  public  opinion, 
and  enlighten  members  of  Congress.  We  must  bide  our  time, 
and,  when  it  comes,  act. 

Let  it  first,  then,  be  stirred  quietly  in  the  army.  Let  a  great 
many  officers  in  all  good  time,  all  discreet  and  sensible  men,  be 
interested,  and  let  them  write  for  the  papers.  .  .  . 

We  must  work  to  get  public  men  informed.  I  would  not 
have  the  movement  partake  in  the  slightest  degree  of  a  party 
character.  But  we  must  act  on  the  known  fact  that  the  Demo- 
cratic party  is  the  only  party  that  can  govern  the  country. 
The  Whig  party  is  totally  incompetent.  We  must  throw  our 
strength  chiefly  on  Democrats.  Douglas  would  be  a  tower 
of  strength  in  the  Senate.  Would  it  not  be  a  good  idea  to 
address  a  series  of  letters  to  him,  and  request  him,  if  he 
approves  of  their  general  spirit,  to  publish  them  in  the  "  Wash- 
ington Union "  ?  This  he  could  do  without  pledging  himself 
to  the  particular  views  of  the  letters.  In  the  House  is  Fuller, 
of  Maine,  a  new  member  but  a  rising  man,  a  particular  friend 
of  mine.  There  is  Bissel,  of  Illinois.  There  is  Rusk,  of  Texas. 
General  Bayly,  Stanton,  of  Tennessee,  and  others  I  might  men- 
tion, are  strong,  reliable  men.     The  Southern  disunion  men 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  261 

will  look  coldly  on  all  attempts  to  improve  the  army.  Mr. 
Burt  will  be  lukewarm.  I  am  somewhat  fearful  of  Jefferson 
Davis.  But  they  are  both  strong,  good  men,  and  we  should  act 
on  the  presumption  that  sectional  views  will  not  sway  them 
from  their  duty. 

Yours,  etc., 

1. 1.  Stevens. 

He  urged  the  elevating  of  the  personnel  of  the  army 

by- 

"  enlisting  none  but  intelligent,  respectable  men,  a  fair  repre- 
sentation of  our  people,  attracted  by  increase  of  pay,  and  by 
opportunity  of  promotion  to  the  grade  of  commissioned  officer ; 
that  by  care  in  selecting  men,  by  schools,  by  libraries,  and  by 
camps  of  instruction,  we  can  actually  make  of  the  common 
soldier  a  pretty  good  military  man,  so  that  going  into  civil  life 
he  may  do  good  service  in  the  militia,  and  in  time  of  war  be  an 
important  element  in  rapidly  organizing  armies.  In  this  way 
the  influence  of  West  Point  can  be  felt  throughout  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  land,  in  peace  as  well  as  on  the  breaking 
out  of  a  war.  It  should  be  a  settled  principle  to  officer  the 
infantry  and  mounted  regiments  in  part  from  the  rank  and  file. 
I  know  of  no  measure  which  is  so  calculated  to  elevate  the 
service,  and  impart  to  it  a  greater  efficiency.  Young  men 
of  character  would  enter  it,  and  our  own  citizens  would  fill  up 
the  ranks. 

"  Commanding  officers  on  the  frontiers  should  have  entire 
discretion  in  matters  of  clothing,  subsistence,  and  transporta- 
tion. Officers  of  the  administrative  departments  would  in  this 
case  make  their  usual  returns  and  reports  to  their  chiefs  in 
Washington.  But  the  directions  from  Washington  should  be 
to  the  commander,  and  should  be  of  the  most  general  character ; 
else  there  will  be  divided,  discordant  government,  there  will  be 
a  want  of  unity  of  purpose,  there  will  be  feebleness  and  delays 
in  action.  It  may  be  said  that  this  involves  great  judgment, 
energy,  and  foresight  on  the  part  of  the  commanding  officer. 
Undoubtedly,  and  none  but  officers  of  high  qualities  should  be 
placed  in  command.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  duties 
in  the  direction  of  affairs  at  Washington.  Send  the  most  com- 
petent man  to  take  command.     Throw  the  responsibility  upon 


262  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

him.  Build  Mm  up,  or  break  him  down.  In  the  latter  case, 
promptly  supply  his  place  by  another  officer." 

He  also  suggested  planting  military  colonies  :  — 

"  Farmers  and  artisans  to  be  enlisted,  heads  of  families  as  well 
as  young  men,  all  intelligent,  sober,  moral  men,  at  advanced 
rates  of  pay,  and  with  their  families  be  located  at  important 
points  in  the  Indian  country,  the  whole  to  be  organized  in  a 
military  manner ;  heads  of  families  as  the  stationary  infantry 
force,  and  the  young  men  as  the  dragoon  force,  always  in  the 
saddle,  and  making  up  in  mobility  for  paucity  of  numbers. 

"  I  know  well  some  of  the  prominent  members  of  the  Military 
Committee.  My  opinion  is  sometimes  asked,  and  I  wish  to  com- 
municate sound,  practical  views.  Here  I  am,  and  in  my  inter- 
course with  members  of  Congress  I  intend  to  be,  an  army  man 
and  not  a  corps  man.  Let  me  tell  you  that  truthful,  intelligent 
officers  have  weight  with  Congress.  The  prominent  members 
will  give  heed  to  their  suggestions,  and  will  be  apt  to  adopt 
their  views.  There  is  a  strong  feeling  in  Congress  that  things 
are  not  managed  rightly.  Officers  here  must  not  only  show 
what  things  are  managed  well ;  they  must  also  show  wherein 
things  are  mismanaged,  and  they  must  suggest  the  remedy.  It 
is  time  for  officers  having  a  common  purpose  to  act  together, 
and  do  something  for  their  profession.  I  am  at  all  events 
determined  to  do  my  duty.  If  we  will  act  in  concert,  compare 
views  in  a  fraternal  and  generous  spirit,  merging  the  arm  in 
the  army,  and  taking  views  as  large  as  our  country,  and  occupy- 
ing the  whole  ground  of  the  public  defense,  and  thus  come  to 
conclusions,  we  shall  be  right,  and  Congress  will  act  accord- 
ingly, I  care  not  what  opposition  be  made  in  interested  quar- 
ters." 

In  a  letter  to  Captain  G.  W.  Smith,  he  declares  — 

"  that  the  experience  of  our  corps  is  too  confined  in  time  of 
peace,  and  that  a  portion  ought  to  serve  with  troops  in  the  West. 
This  has  always  been  my  opinion,  and  the  first  year  I  entered 
the  army  I  corresponded  with  Halleck  in  relation  to  it,  and  was 
in  favor  of  a  strong  effort  being  made  by  our  officers  to  get  a 
change  in  our  duties.  .  .  .  Were  I  not  tied  up  on  the  Coast 


LIFE  IN   WASHINGTON  263 

Survey  as  I  am,  I  would  make  a  great  effort  to  get  ordered  to 
New  Mexico  or  Texas.  There  is  a  field  for  such  of  us  as  will 
go  there  with  a  determination  to  carve  one  out,  if  it  is  not,  in 
consequence  of  the  stupidity  of  superiors,  offered  us." 

Major  Stevens  followed  up  this  subject  with  great  dili- 
gence, expending  a  vast  amount  of  thought  and  work 
upon  it  for  three  years,  and  until  the  engrossing  duties 
of  the  exploration  of  the  Northern  route  to  the  Pacific  in 
1853,  and  of  the  governorship  of  Washington  Territory, 
the  making  of  Indian  treaties,  and  the  conduct  of  the 
Indian  war  in  the  Pacific  Northwest  occupied  his  whole 
time  and  energies.  Some  of  his  ideas  bore  fruit,  and 
have  since  been  adopted,  notably  the  raising  of  the 
standard  of  the  rank  and  file  by  increasing  the  pay  of  the 
private  soldier,  improving  his  opportunities,  and  allowing 
him  to  compete  for  a  commission.  And  the  thorough- 
going and  comprehensive  plan  he  suggested  of  deciding 
upon  the  best  system  of  national  defense  by  the  study 
and  conferring  together  of  the  ablest  military  men,  the 
appeal  to  patriotic  and  intelligent  citizens,  and  the  en- 
lightening of  public  opinion,  is  as  wise  and  practical  now 
as  then,  and  as  necessary.  For  the  dear-bought  experi- 
ence of  our  four  great  wars  is  entirely  unheeded,  indeed 
almost  unknown  to  the  mass  of  the  people  ;  and  the  army 
to-day,  in  organization  as  in  numbers,  in  its  influence 
upon  the  military  ideas  and  aptitudes  of  the  nation  in 
peace  as  in  its  capacity  for  expansion  in  time  of  war,  is 
inadequate  to  our  needs  as  a  great  nation. 

Upon  this  subject  the  following  characteristic  letter  of 
McClellan  is  of  interest :  — 

Friday. 

My  dear  Stevens,  —  The  inclosed  are  the  result  of  a 
search  through  the  libraries  of  the  War  and  Eng'r  Dep'ts.  I 
hardly  feel  satisfied  that  they  are  precisely  what  you  need. 

If  they  do  not  suit  you,  inform  me  of  it,  and  I  will  gladly 
renew  the  research. 


264  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

I  had  another  conversation  with  the  general  this  morning 
about  the  sappers.  It 's  of  no  use  whatever,  —  his  mind  is 
made  up  to  detail  fifty  men  on  the  Coast  Survey.  He  says  the 
duty  I  propose  for  them  in  Texas  is  not  legitimate  and  belongs 
not  to  them.  Amen !  I  have  said  my  say.  I  've  done  what  I 
could.  Some  one  of  more  influence  than  I  possess  must  con- 
vince him,  —  my  words  are  idle  breath  and  of  no  avail. 
Truly  your  friend, 

George  B.  McClellan. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  he  was  undertaking  this 
great  task  of  reorganizing  the  army,  expending  so  much 
thought,  labor,  and  time  upon  it,  in  addition  to  the  inces- 
sant labors  of  the  Coast  Survey  and  the  cares  of  the 
fortifications  in  Maine.  It  was  his  lofty  and  patriotic 
ideals,  his  noble  ambition  to  do  his  duty  by  his  profes- 
sion and  his  country,  that  spurred  him  on,  and  his  untiring 
energy  and  power  of  concentration  that  enabled  him  to 
throw  off  work  so  rapidly  and  effectively.  His  great 
ambition  was  to  accomplish  results,  and  he  was  careless 
and  indifferent  as  to  claiming  credit  for  himself,  or  push- 
ing himself  in  any  way. 

Notwithstanding  all  these  engrossing  labors,  he  re- 
sponded as  promptly  and  generously  as  ever  to  the  per- 
sonal calls  of  his  friends  and  others.  He  writes  and 
interviews  the  War  Department  and  Generals  Scott  and 
Totten  in  behalf  of  another  brevet  for  Captain  G.  W. 
Smith,  aids  McClellan  in  regard  to  the  engineer  company, 
obtains  information  for  H.  L.  Smith,  has  the  accounts  of 
Sergeant  Lathrop,  of  the  engineer  company,  passed,  and 
is  ever  ready  to  lend  a  helping  hand  to  any  deserving  man 
or  cause. 

Early  in  1851  Major  Stevens  moved  to  Mrs.  Janney's, 
an  excellent  and  well-known  boarding-house  on  Eighth 
Street,  next  the  Avenue.  Here  lived  several  members  of 
Congress  and  government  officials,  and  also  the  Turkish 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  265 

ambassador,  a  grave,  quiet  man  in  a  dark  red  fez,  with 
whom  Major  Stevens  occasionally  played  checkers  in  the 
evening.  At  this  establishment  breakfast  was  served  at 
eight,  dinner  at  four,  with  a  lunch  at  noon,  and  at  nine  in 
the  evening  tea  and  thin  sandwiches  were  handed  around 
in  the  parlor. 

In  June  Major  Stevens  carried  his  family  to  Newport 
for  the  summer,  where  leaving  them,  he  visited  Bucks- 
port  to  look  after  the  works  at  Fort  Knox,  which  still 
remained  under  his  charge.  He  hastened  back  to  Wash- 
ington before  the  month  was  out.  Passing  through  New 
York,  he  again  sat  to  Professor  Fowler  for  his  "  phreno- 
logical character,"  but  this  time  was  not  accused  of  being 
a  poet.  Whether  informed  by  the  bumps  or  other  means, 
the  phrenologist  seems  to  have  drawn  his  characteristics 
pretty  accurately,  with  some  glaring  exceptions. 

Desirous  of  keeping  house,  Major  Stevens  now  leased 
a  roomy  brick  house,  one  in  a  block  of  two,  on  the  west 
side  of  Third  Street,  and  only  a  block  north  of  the  Ave- 
nue. This  house  had  a  large  garden  fronting  on  the 
street,  and  in  the  rear  of  it  was  a  stable  opening  on  an 
alley  behind.  Having  obtained  a  position  on  the  Coast 
Survey  for  his  cousin,  George  Watson  Stevens,  a  son  of 
uncle  William,  a  young  man  of  nineteen,  Major  Stevens 
invited  the  youth  to  become  a  member  of  his  family. 

Washington,  July  27, 1851. 
My  dear,  good  Wife,  —  I  have  read  your  last  letter  over 
three  times,  and  it  has  done  me  a  world  of  good.  I  love  to  have 
you  write  so  from  your  heart.  You  know  that  in  marriage,  in 
my  wife  and  children,  are  centred  all  my  hopes  of  earthly  hap- 
piness. I  am  conscious  it  occupies  too  large  a  space  in  my 
youthful  longings.  It  seems  to  me,  with  a  devoted,  loving, 
and  lovely  wife  and  lovely  children,  I  might  shut  out  the  cares 
of  life,  and  give  myself  up  to  happiness  and  joy.  But  we  have 
duties  to  perform,  trials  to  encounter,  victories  to  achieve.  Life 
is  a  warfare.     We  must  contend  with  evil.     We  must  accom- 


266  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

plish  good.  I  feel  that  I  have  done  something,  but  that  I  have 
just  begun ;  that  I  am  entering  upon  the  great  field  of  useful 
exertion.  I  feel  that  the  past  has  simply  given  me  the  expe- 
rience and  the  knowledge  to  wisely  conquer  the  present,  and 
thus  achieve  a  future.  I  feel  there  is  something  heroic  and 
noble  in  this  view  of  life.  I  feel  that  the  greatest  support,  next 
to  the  consciousness  of  well-doing,  is  the  sympathy  and  support 
of  you,  my  dear  companion  and  friend,  and  the  confiding,  ten- 
der helplessness  of  our  dear  babes. 

I  like  George  in  the  house  very  much,  and,  so  far  as  I  am 
concerned,  I  should  like  to  have  him  a  member  of  our  family. 
I  think,  moreover,  it  would  be  to  his  advantage.  Charging 
him  simply  the  actual  outlay  to  us,  it  will  diminish  his  expend- 
itures. Moreover,  I  shall  be  absent  on  inspections  more  or 
less,  and  you  will  thus  have  some  one  to  call  on. 

He  is  studious,  attentive  to  his  duties,  is  impressing  every  one 
favorably  with  whom  he  is  brought  in  contact,  and  is  advan- 
cing steadily  and  quite  rapidly.  I  feel  highly  pleased  with  his 
progress.  With  economy  his  pay  will,  the  first  year,  pay  his 
expenses. 

I  fear,  if  I  am  off  in  August,  it  will  embarrass  me  very  seri- 
ously in  the  fall.  Our  reports  are  still  coming  in,  and  now  is 
the  time  to  put  things  in  a  successful  train.  I  do  not  wish,  by 
inaction  or  delay  now,  to  make  trouble  hereafter.  My  health 
is  remarkably  good.  I  have  never  had  a  better  appetite,  or 
more  ability  to  work,  than  I  have  now.  I  am  surprised  at  my 
vigor.  I  don't  care  how  hot  the  weather  is.  The  perspiration 
will  drop  from  my  face  and  hands,  and  I  will  feel  neither  lan- 
guor nor  fatigue.  The  other  men  in  the  office  complain  and 
have  to  slacken  in  their  exertions,  whilst  I  seem  to  have,  with 
every  hot  day,  fresh  strength  and  force. 

Give  my  love  to  the  bairns.     I  want  very  much  to  see  them. 

Yours  affectionately, 

Isaac. 

Washington,  July  28,  1851. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  I  was  very  glad  to  learn  that  you 

were  so  well,  and  that  the  visit  to  Tom's  was  so  pleasant.     The 

farm  is  the  place  for  children.    On  their  account  I  wish  I  could 

pass  four  months  every  summer  in  that  way.     Hazard  should 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  267 

go  to  school  seven  or  eight  months.  I  am  delighted  with  his 
doings,  —  learning  to  swim,  and  do  all  kinds  of  work.  Maude, 
too,  learning  to  walk,  —  yes,  actually  walking,  little  darling. 
She  must  have  forgotten  me,  but  she  will  soon  recollect  me  on 
seeing  me  again.  And  Sue  learning  to  ride  on  horseback ! 
Why,  verily,  Margaret,  you  have  a  hopeful  family,  one  of  which 
you  may  well  be  proud.  Whether  I  go  on  to  Tom's  farm  this 
summer  is  doubtful.  I  am  glad  they  are  doing  so  well.  Daniel 
is  a  first-rate  business  man,  and,  as  he  likes  farming,  why  not 
make  it  his  business  ?  I  believe  he  could  in  a  few  years  clear 
from  debt  a  large  farm,  going  upon  it  without  a  cent  in  his 
pocket.  This  is  my  opinion,  and  in  a  pecuniary  point  of  view 
it  is  much  better  than  a  salaried  place,  —  far  better. 

You  may  be  assured  my  health  is  remarkably  firm  and  good. 
I  never  knew  it  better.  This  warm  weather  does  not  affect  me 
in  the  least.  I  bear  labor  better  than  any  man  in  the  office. 
Not  a  man  in  the  office  can  do  as  much  as  I  can. 

Well,  as  to  the  book.  It  is  said  to  sell  pretty  well.  Most 
of  the  copies  have  been  disposed  of.  Very  good  notices  have 
appeared  both  in  the  "  Intelligencer  "  and  "  Republic."  The 
notice  of  the  "  Intelligencer  "  I  sent  you.  The  notice  in  the 
"  Republic  "  was  short,  but  very  good.  Some  of  my  friends 
think  it  will  excite  a  controversy.  Others  think  it  will  be 
found  a  very  hard  thing  to  reply  to.  The  fact  is,  whilst  I  have 
endeavored  to  clearly  discern  errors,  I  have  sought  to  look 
charitably  on  all  that  was  done.  This  seemed  to  me  the  only 
true  wisdom.  Some  of  my  friends  think  I  have  carried  this 
spirit  too  far,  and  that  I  have  not  censured  enough.  The 
general  criticism  is  that  I  am  too  favorable  towards  Ripley.  I 
think  I  have  simply  done  him  justice. 

Washington,  August  8,  1851. 

My  dearest  Wife,  —  My  health  is  remarkably  good,  my 
duties  multifarious,  and  I  must  not  spend  time  in  recreation 
which  my  health  does  not  require.  I  have  not  had  such  health 
for  years,  and  have  enjoyed  this  summer. 

We  are  getting  on  famously  with  our  housekeeping.  The 
woman  is  a  neat,  respectable,  honest  person,  who  tries  to  do  her 
duty,  a  very  respectable  washer  and  ironer  as  well  as  cook.  I 
think  you  will  be  pleased  with  her.     I  shall  send  a  boy  whom 


268  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

we  have  had  for  a  month  away  in  the  morning.  One  of  the 
messengers  comes  to  the  house  every  evening  to  attend  to  the 
garden.  So  we  are  getting  along.  To-day  we  put  six  chick- 
ens into  our  coop,  and  to-morrow  eight  hens  will  be  admitted. 
You  will  find  us  getting  on  swimmingly  when  you  come  on  in 
October. 

Friday  morning.  I  have  just  received  two  very  gratifying 
letters,  one  from  General  Shields,  which  I  send  you.  Don't 
show  it  to  any  one,  for  he  is  very  extravagant  in  praise  of  my 
book,  and  his  suggestions  are  made  in  a  corresponding  spirit. 
But  I  value  what  he  says  very  much,  because  he  writes  from  his 
heart  and  in  the  spirit  of  friendship.  I  feel,  too,  there  are 
many  points  of  sympathy  between  him  and  me,  and  I  value  his 
friendship  and  words  of  encouragement. 

The  other  letter  is  from  Major  Pitman.  His  article  on 
my  book  in  the  "  Providence  Journal "  of  August  6  is  alto- 
gether the  best  that  has  appeared.  He  has  presented  his  own 
views  with  clearness  and  force  on  certain  points  of  difference. 
This  is  what  I  want.  I  don't  want  eulogies,  but  discriminating 
notices.  I  want  to  see  my  errors  exposed,  otherwise  I  shall  not 
learn  to  correct  them. 

Taylor  &  Maury  have  sold  out  all  the  copies  of  my  book,  and 
in  consequence  I  loaned  them  half  a  dozen  that  I  still  had  on 
hand.     They  think  they  will  sell  a  great  many  more. 

I  am  pushed  exceedingly,  and  can  write  no  more  to-day.  Love 
to  the  children. 

Affectionately. 

In  the  latter  part  of  September  Major  Stevens  made  a 
hasty  visit  North,  spent  a  few  days  at  Andover  and  New- 
port, and  brought  his  family  back  to  Washington.  His 
wife's  youngest  sister,  Miss  Nancy  Hazard,  accompanied 
them  and  spent  the  winter  with  them.  He  still  retained 
charge  of  the  works  at  Bucksport,  although  the  second 
year  of  duty  on  the  Coast  Survey  was  near  its  close,  and 
writes  full  and  explicit  instructions  to  Mr.  A.  W.  Tink- 
ham,  C.  E.,  concerning  it.  At  a  later  date  he  obtained 
a  good  position  for  Mr.  Tinkham  on  the  Coast  Survey, 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  269 

and  also  secured  a  situation  in  the  same  service  for  Mr. 
John  E.  Lee,  whom  he  had  employed  in  Bucksport  as  clerk. 

The  family  this  winter  was  increased  by  George  W. 
Stevens  and  Miss  Nancy  L.  Hazard.  There  was  the 
colored  cook,  and  Bridget  Sullivan,  the  children's  nurse, 
and  Sampson  Ingraham,  a  most  faithful,  capable,  and 
respectable  colored  man  and  a  free  man.  Sampson  had 
one  cross  to  bear  which  sorely  tried  his  devotion  to  the 
family,  and  that  was  milking  the  cow  and  taking  care  of 
it,  which  Major  Stevens  compelled  him  daily  to  do ;  for 
Sampson,  never  having  done  any  farm  work,  regarded 
this  as  derogatory,  and  was  much  distressed  and  morti- 
fied thereby.  But  finally  Major  Stevens,  perceiving  his 
trouble,  relieved  him  from  this  duty.  In  the  next  house, 
on  the  south  side,  lived  the  family  of  Captain  Simon  F. 
Blount,  of  the  navy.  Nearly  across  the  street  Senator 
William  Gwin,  of  California,  and  family  occupied  a 
roomy  mansion,  where  they  dispensed  a  generous  hospi- 
tality. After  breakfast,  at  eight,  Major  Stevens  usually 
walked  down  to  the  Coast  Survey  Office,  and  walked  back 
in  time  for  dinner  at  four  in  the  afternoon.  In  the 
evening  there  was  tea  at  eight  o'clock. 

Louis  Kossuth,  the  Hungarian  patriot,  visited  Wash- 
ington this  winter,  and  attracted  the  greatest  attention 
and  admiration.  He  was  a  man  of  noble  presence,  a 
finished  orator,  speaking  English  with  great  purity  and 
ease.  The  Democratic  Jackson  Club  gave  a  banquet  on 
January  8  in  honor  of  Kossuth,  which  was  attended  by 
Webster  and  many  of  the  first  men  of  the  country. 
Major  Stevens  was  called  upon  to  respond  to  the  toast 
of  "  The  Army  and  Navy,"  and  spoke  as  follows :  — 

Gentlemen,  —  In  the  name  of  the  army  I  return  my  thanks 
for  the  honor  of  this  toast.  I  speak  in  behalf  of  the  American 
army,  —  that  army  which  presents  its  breast  to  the  enemy, 
which  pours  out  its  blood,  which  lays  down  its  life.     A  weighty 


270  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

significance  already  attaches  to  these  words,  "  the  American 
army."  For,  first,  it  achieved  the  independence  of  these  States 
against  the  most  powerful  nation  of  modern  times ;  second,  it 
waged  against  the  same  power  the  second  war  of  independence 
to  maintain  the  freedom  of  the  seas,  the  war  the  culminating 
glories  of  which  we  this  evening  celebrate  ;  and,  third,  when  a 
contiguous  republic  interfered  with  the  domestic  concerns  of 
one  of  our  States,  the  vindication  of  the  law  of  nations,  thus 
trampled  under  foot,  was  placed  in  its  hands,  and  the  stars  and 
stripes  soon  waved  over  the  ancient  seats  of  the  Montezumas. 
The  American  army  will  never  forget  what  is  due  to  its  past 
renown  and  its  future  glory.  We  feel  that,  citizens  alike  with 
you,  we  are  the  army  of  a  free  people.  We  know,  too,  that 
our  country  possesses  elements  of  military  strength  scarcely 
appreciated  by  the  inattentive  observer  of  events,  —  elements 
that  have  been  nurtured  by  the  wonderful  growth,  the  trials 
and  vicissitudes,  of  our  young  nation  struggling  into  manhood. 
No  other  people  so  combines  command  and  obedience,  is  so 
subordinate  to  law,  yet  is  so  much  a  law  unto  itself.  No  other 
people  of  ancient  or  modern  times  possesses  such  elements  of 
military  power.  It  is  the  profound  conviction  of  my  heart  that 
in  a  just  cause  we  could  meet  the  world  with  a  million  armed 
men,  each  man  a  tried  and  true  soldier,  surpassing  even  the 
iron  men  of  Cromwell,  those  men  who  feared  God  but  not  man ; 
those  men  stern  in  fight  yet  merciful  in  victory ;  those  men 
who  achieved  the  great  triumph  of  English  independence,  and 
transmitted  to  us  its  glorious  recollections. 

The  members  of  both  services,  which  you  have  honored 
to-night,  see  that  the  American  people  are  marching  forward 
to  mighty  destinies,  and  that  upon  them  heavy  responsibilities 
will  rest.  We  mean  to  do  our  whole  duty.  We  mean  at  all 
times  to  be  in  harness  and  at  our  posts.  We  know  not  when 
the  time  may  come,  —  probably  in  our  lifetime,  and  perhaps 
to-morrow.  We  feel  no  despondency,  but  are  filled  with  joy 
and  hope.  When  our  beloved  nation,  "a  power  on  earth," 
shall  determine  to  measure  its  strength  with  other  powers  in 
the  maintenance  of  right,  and  in  vindication  of  violated  law 
and  outraged  humanity,  the  army  and  navy  will  carry  their 
country's  flag  in  triumph  over  all  seas  and  through  all  lands. 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  271 

Congress  was  disposed  then  as  now  to  starve  the  coast 
defenses,  appropriating  scarcely  enough  to  maintain  the 
works  already  built.  Major  Stevens,  deeply  interested  in 
the  proper  fortification  of  the  coast,  both  from  his  profes- 
sional knowledge  and  experience  and  his  enlarged  and 
patriotic  views,  with  his  accustomed  zeal  and  energy 
undertook  the  task  of  inculcating  upon  the  country  and 
Congress  sound  ideas  in  regard  to  this  important  subject, 
and  of  obtaining  the  appropriations  necessary  to  keep  up 
and  complete  existing  works.  In  this,  as  in  everything 
he  undertook,  was  evinced  his  prominent  characteristic  of 
going  to  the  bottom  of  a  subject,  of  basing  his  action 
upon  broad  principles ;  and  so,  instead  of  being  satisfied 
with  simply  securing  the  needed  appropriations  for  the 
time  being,  he  treats  of  the  whole  system  of  fortifications 
required  for  national  defense,  both  present  and  future. 
He  had  repeated  conferences  with  General  Shields  on 
this  subject,  who  in  March,  as  chairman  of  the  Military 
Committee,  brought  into  the  Senate  a  favorable  report 
and  bill.  In  support  of  this,  and  advocating  a  proper 
system  of  coast  defenses,  Major  Stevens  wrote  a  number 
of  articles,  which  were  published  in  the  "National  Intel- 
ligencer "  of  Washington,  the  "  Boston  Post,"  Portland 
"Eastern  Argus,"  "Bangor  Democrat,"  and  papers  in 
New  York,  Richmond,  New  Orleans,  and  other  places. 
He  caused  these  articles,  with  Shields's  report,  to  be  sent 
to  many  officers  and  influential  men  in  different  parts 
of  the  country,  urging  them  to  advocate  the  matter  on  pa- 
triotic grounds.  These  articles  were  much  commended, 
especially  by  his  brother  officers  of  the  engineers. 

He  also  at  this  time  published  in  the  "  Boston  Post " 
an  article  on  the  lighthouse  system. 

In  April,  1852,  Major  Stevens  was  appointed  a  member 
of  the  Lighthouse  Board,  which  was  considered  no  slight 
honor,  and  which  added  much  to  his  responsibilities  and 


272  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

his  duties.  His  colleagues  on  the  board  were  all  men  of 
talent  and  reputation,  the  association  with  whom  was  con- 
genial and  gratifying.  In  May  he  visited  Wilmington 
on  this  duty. 

The  Bucksport  house  had  remained  on  his  hands  all 
this  time,  a  source  of  more  care  than  income ;  but  in 
April  a  purchaser  was  found  in  Mr.  Knox  for  $1350, 
evidently  quite  a  sacrifice. 

He  took  his  two  elder  children,  Hazard  and  Sue,  to 
Newport  for  the  summer ;  but  his  wife  and  Maude,  the 
youngest  child,  remained  in  Washington. 

General  Franklin  Pierce,  having  been  nominated  for 
the  presidency  by  the  Democratic  party,  was  outrageously 
assailed  by  the  unscrupulous  press  and  partisans  of  the 
other  side  on  account  of  his  services  in  Mexico,  and  even 
his  personal  courage  was  impugned.  Major  Stevens, 
having  met  Pierce  in  Mexico,  and  having  been  favorably 
impressed  by  him,  was  indignant  at  these  slanders,  and 
felt  called  upon  to  aid  in  refuting  them.  Accordingly 
he  published  six  letters  in  the  "  Boston  Post "  and  two 
in  the  "  Kepublic,"  a  Washington  paper,  warmly,  but  in 
a  temperate  and  courteous  style,  vindicating  the  unjustly 
assailed  public  man.  He  takes  pains  in  these  articles  to 
eulogize  the  military  talents  of  General  Scott,  the  rival 
candidate  nominated  by  the  Whig  party,  quotes  his  favor- 
able mention  of  Pierce  in  his  reports  of  operations  in 
Mexico,  and  shows  that  the  rival  candidates  entertained 
warm  feelings  of  esteem  for  each  other,  thus  ingeniously 
making  Scott  a  witness  to  refute  his  own  reckless  parti- 
sans.    He  concludes  the  last  article  as  follows :  — 

"  You  well  know,  Mr.  Editor,  my  exalted  appreciation  of 
the  conduct  and  services  of  General  Scott  in  Mexico.  It  has 
been  a  pleasing  reflection  that  the  standard-bearers  of  the  two 
great  parties  were  warm  personal  friends,  each  possessing  in  an 
eminent  degree  the  respect  and  confidence  of  the  other.     The 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  273 

friends  of  General  Pierce  have  never  claimed  that  he  was  a 
great  military  man.  They  concede  with  pride  and  gratification 
that  General  Scott  is,  and  that  he  is  a  judge  of  military  quali- 
ties. They  simply  claim  that  General  Pierce  in  his  service  in 
Mexico  did  his  whole  duty  as  a  son  of  the  Republic,  that  he 
was  eminently  patriotic,  disinterested,  and  gallant,  and  that  it 
has  added  a  laurel  to  his  beautiful  civic  wreath :  as  a  citizen  he 
has  been  ready  to  make  sacrifices  for  his  country ;  as  a  soldier 
and  commander,  he  has  shown  gallantry  before  the  enemy,  and 
was  eminently  the  friend  and  father  of  his  command.'' 

Colonel  Charles  G.  Greene,  editor  of  the  "Post,"  writes 
that  General  Pierce  was  much  pleased  with,  and  highly 
commended,  these  letters. 

Major  Stevens  always  took  great  interest  in  public 
affairs.  He  was  emphatically  a  national  man.  He  held 
the  Union  as  the  noblest  work  of  our  Revolutionary 
patriots,  and  as  indispensable  to  liberty  and  national 
greatness.  An  ardent  Democrat  from  boyhood,  he  re- 
garded the  Democratic  party  as  preeminently  the  national 
party,  the  party  of  progress.  He  fully  justified  the  Mex- 
ican war,  the  great  Democratic  measure,  and  believed 
with  full  faith  in  the  future  growth  and  destiny  of  the 
Great  Republic.  The  slavery  question,  destined  in  a  few 
brief  years  to  wreck  that  party  and  so  nearly  destroy  the 
nation,  was  still  in  abeyance,  and  it  was  almost  universally 
believed  that  the  compromise  of  1850  had  averted  all 
danger  from  that  quarter. 

Not  content  with  vindicating  Pierce  in  the  papers, 
Major  Stevens  now  concluded  to  support  him  on  the 
stump.  He  wrote  Gayton  P.  Osgood,  and  other  friends 
in  Massachusetts,  as  to  the  advisability  of  this  step,  but 
received  rather  discouraging  replies,  one  correspondent 
even  taking  him  to  task  for  speaking  so  highly  of  Gen- 
eral Scott  in  his  articles,  and  recommending  him  to  be- 
come a  thoroughgoing  partisan  if  he  took  the  stump. 


274  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

But  as  usual  he  held  to  his  own  opinion,  and  in  August 
addressed  a  large  public  meeting  in  Hillsborough,  N.  H., 
in  support  of  the  Democratic  principles  and  candidate, 
and  later,  in  October,  spoke  in  Andover,  Newport,  and 
Portsmouth.  His  brother  officer  and  friend,  Colonel 
James  L.  Mason,  also  addressed  the  meeting  in  Newport, 
and  Hon.  Charles  Levi  Woodbury  spoke  with  him  in 
Portsmouth.  In  his  speeches  Major  Stevens  took  pains 
to  do  full  justice  to  General  Scott  as  a  military  man, 
without  disparaging  him  as  a  statesman  or  otherwise. 
His  arguments  were  drawn  from  the  ideas  and  objects 
of  the  two  parties,  —  a  contest  of  principles,  not  men. 

It  appears  that  the  course  of  the  young  army  officer  in 
stumping  for  Pierce,  and  as  in  Mason's  case  even  stirring 
up  other  officers  to  do  likewise,  excited  no  little  commo- 
tion in  the  War  Department,  for  it  was  a  Whig  adminis- 
tration. On  his  return,  the  Secretary  of  War,  Charles  M. 
Conrad,  undertook  to  take  him  to  task  for  it,  and  wrote 
Major  Stevens  a  severe  letter,  demanding  an  explanation 
of  his  conduct.  This  was  soon  bruited  about  Washing- 
ton, and  many  of  his  friends  and  brother  officers  came 
anxiously  to  advise  with  him  about  it.  They  felt  that  he 
was  in  an  embarrassing  position,  and  one  from  which  he 
could  hardly  hope  to  extricate  himself  with  credit,  and 
they  were  not  a  little  troubled  as  to  the  outcome. 

At  length  Major  Stevens  prepared  his  answer  to  the 
Secretary,  and,  before  sending  it,  read  it  to  a  group  of 
his  anxious  brother  officers.  In  a  direct,  forcible,  but 
courteous  style,  he  reminded  the  Secretary  that,  in  becom- 
ing an  officer  of  the  army,  he  had  not  forfeited  his  rights 
as  a  citizen,  nor  become  relieved  from  his  duties  as  such ; 
that,  while  he  had  never  failed  in  the  respect  due  his  supe- 
rior officers,  he  had  the  right  of  an  American  citizen  to 
advocate  such  public  measures  as  he  deemed  best  for  the 
country,  and  to  vote  for  the  public  servants  best  fitted  to 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  275 

carry  them  out ;  and  he  concluded  in  a  somewhat  sarcastic 
but  perfectly  respectful  way  by  calling  the  Secretary's 
attention  to  the  fact  that  General  Scott  himself  was  a 
candidate  for  the  presidency,  and  was  setting  the  example 
of  that  participation  in  politics  which  the  Secretary  so 
severely  reprobated,  and  suggested  that  his  animadver- 
sions would  have  greater  weight  with  the  service,  and 
be  more  worthy  the  dignity  of  the  War  Department,  if 
launched  against  the  senior  major-general  of  the  army 
instead  of  a  simple  lieutenant  and  brevet  major;  that 
they  were  more  applicable  to  the  former  than  the  latter, 
and  might  well  be  deemed  an  attempt  to  scourge  General 
Scott  over  his  back. 

As  Major  Stevens  read  aloud  this  letter,  the  faces  of 
his  friends  cleared  up ;  soon  they  began  to  applaud  it, 
and  as  he  finished  they  crowded  around  him  with  cheers 
and  laughter  and  exclamations,  —  "  That 's  good  !  that 
covers  the  ground  !  "  "  You  are  right,  Stevens.  You 
are  perfectly  right."  "  He  can't  answer  it,"  etc.  Sure 
enough,  the  Secretary  did  not  answer  it,  and  attempted 
no  further  action. 

In  fact,  Major  Stevens  had  now  become  quite  a  leader 
among  the  able  young  officers.  They  were  constantly 
calling  at  his  house,  and  discussing  with  him  the  measures 
he  was  pushing  forward  for  the  improvement  of  the  army, 
fortifications,  etc.  He  was  always  ready  to  assist  any  of 
them,  too,  and  it  was  known  that  his  aid  was  frequently 
effective.  He  obtained  a  detail  on  the  Coast  Survey  for 
his  friend,  Captain  J.  C.  Foster,  and  secured  for  several 
others  lighthouse  inspectorships.  He  also  had  a  number 
of  the  engineer  company  detailed  on  the  Coast  Survey, 
although  his  friends  Cullum,  G.  W.  Smith,  and  McClellan 
strenuously  opposed  it. 

Writes  a  young  man  on  the  survey,  whose  pay  Major 
Stevens  had  tried  to  increase  but  without  success  :  — 


276  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

"  Having  been  informed  to-day  that  you  did  not  succeed  in 
your  efforts  to  make  my  compensation  $1500  per  annum  from 
October  1,  1851,  and  consequently  was  obliged  to  pay  out  of 
your  own  pocket  $ 50  to  make  your  word  good,  I  believe  it  un- 
becoming a  gentleman  to  remain  a  moment  longer  in  possession 
of  said  money.  The  inclosed  check  will  indemnify  you  for  your 
loss  sustained  for  my  sake,  and  joyfully  I  return  my  heartfelt 
thanks  for  the  efforts  you  have  made  in  my  behalf." 

Writes  Cullum  from  West  Point :  — 

"  Your  feeling  and  commendatory  remarks  on  the  death  of 
private  Logan  were  read  to  the  company  [engineer],  and  will 
doubtless  produce  an  excellent  impression." 

In  truth,  these  personal  demands  grew  to  be  a  grievous 
burden  upon  his  time  and  energies,  yet  he  never  refused 
his  aid  to  any  claim  of  friendship  or  desert.  Among 
others  a  lady,  who  had  long  prosecuted  a  claim  before 
Congress  in  vain,  was  introduced  by  his  corps  chief,  Gen- 
eral Totten,  to  Major  Stevens,  as  the  only  man  who  could 
win  her  cause.  Although  the  latter  felt  that  this  was 
a  task  altogether  outside  of  his  sphere  of  duty,  and  one 
which  should  not  have  been  thrust  upon  him,  he  cheer- 
fully undertook  it,  and  succeeded  in  having  it  allowed  by 
Congress. 

The  friendship  between  Major  Stevens  and  Professor 
Bache  grew  stronger  the  longer  they  were  associated  to- 
gether. They  appreciated  and  admired  each  other.  Both 
were  gifted  with  uncommon  powers  of  mind,  uprightness 
and  purity  of  character,  and  disinterestedness.  Bache 
was  more  the  philosopher,  the  student ;  Stevens,  the  man 
of  action.  Major  Stevens  also  saw  much  of  Professors 
Henry  and  Baird,  of  the  Smithsonian.  He  took  pains  to 
meet  the  able  men  in  Congress,  and  other  men  of  talent 
and  reputation  who  visited  Washington.  Occasionally  of 
an  evening  he  would  take  his  little  boy  by  the  hand,  and 
make  the  rounds  of  Willard's  and  other  hotels,  meeting 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  277 

and  chatting  with  old  army  and  other  friends  and  ac- 
quaintances. 

With  but  little  intermission,  Major  Stevens  was  an  inde- 
fatigable worker,  and  never  so  well  content  as  when  driv- 
ing his  work  at  high  pressure ;  and  his  sound  judgment 
guided  his  energy  so  well  that  he  would  throw  off  an  enor- 
mous load  with  astonishing  rapidity.  He  had  the  faculty 
of  getting  a  great  deal  of  work  out  of  his  subordinates. 
But,  not  realizing  that  others  lacked  equal  ability  and 
power  of  labor,  he  was  at  times  too  exacting  and  severe. 
He  was  also  inclined  to  overrate  both  the  good  qualities 
and  the  ability  of  others,  and  too  often  had  cause  to  re- 
gret having  done  so  from  the  ingratitude  of  many  whom 
he  befriended. 

The  two  elder  children,  Hazard  and  Sue,  returned  to 
Washington  in  October,  and  Miss  Mary  W.  Hazard,  Mrs. 
Stevens's  sister,  also  came  on  and  spent  the  winter  with 
them. 

The  youngest  daughter,  Kate,  was  born  in  the  Third 
Street  house  on  November  17,  1852. 

In  September  Major  Stevens  with  Professor  Bache  was 
appointed  on  a  commission  for  the  improvement  of  the 
James,  Appomattox,  and  Cape  Fear  rivers,  and  in  Novem- 
ber visited  Richmond  and  Wilmington  on  this  duty. 

But  all  these  additional  duties  and  pursuits  made  no 
impairment  of  his  vigorous  hold  upon,  and  improvement 
of,  the  Coast  Survey.  The  character  and  standing  of  the 
office  was  steadily  rising,  and  able  young  officers  were 
glad  to  accept  details  in  it  under  Major  Stevens.  Lieu- 
tenant John  G.  Foster  became  his  principal  assistant. 
Professor  H.  E.  Hilgard,  who  afterwards  rose  to  be  chief 
of  the  Coast  Survey,  had  charge  of  the  computing;  Lieu- 
tenant Richard  C.  Rush,  and  afterwards  Lieutenant  A. 
A.  Gibson,  of  drawing;  and  Lieutenant  E.  B.  Hunt,  of 
engraving.     The  field  work,  as  fast  as  it  came  in,  was 


278  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

given  to  the  public  in  preliminary  sketches,  or  charts, 
which  served  as  a  great  incentive  both  to  parties  in  the 
field,  who  saw  at  once  the  fruits  of  their  labors,  and  to 
the  office  force  in  affording  a  better  opportunity  to  train 
the  younger  members,  and  prepare  them  for  the  finished 
charts ;  and  for  the  first  time  the  annual  report  was  illus- 
trated by  these  sketches,  giving  all  the  field  work  done  to 
date.  He  greatly  facilitated  the  sale  and  distribution 
of  Coast  Survey  maps,  declaring  that  "they  should  be 
carried  to  every  man's  door  having  an  interest  in  com- 
merce, navigation,  geography,  or  science."  He  took 
every  means  to  encourage  and  reward  the  deserving, 
and  opened  the  office  to  young  men  to  learn  the  art  of 
engraving,  for  there  was  a  scarcity  of  skillful  engravers, 
most  of  whom  were  foreigners.     He  reports  :  — 

"  The  system  of  teaching  the  art  of  engraving  to  youths  of 
promise  is  succeeding  admirably.  By  combining  lessons  in 
drawing,  instructions  at  night  schools,  with  engraving,  the  best 
spirit  is  excited,  and  the^  greatest  excellence  attained.  There 
are  now  six  lads  in  the  office,  whose  terms  vary  from  two  to 
nineteen  months. 

"  During  the  past  year  there  has  been  a  visible  improvement 
of  the  office  in  all  its  branches,  and  it  is  my  pleasure  and  duty  to 
bear  unqualified  testimony  to  the  zeal  and  efficiency  of  the  sev- 
eral assistants  in  charge  of  the  departments,  and  of  the  numer- 
ous employees  under  them.  Each  man  has  shown  an  honest 
purpose  to  do  his  duty,  and  I  have  been  much  oftener  obliged 
to  moderate  exertion  than  to  rebuke  indifference  and  neglect." 

And  Professor  Bache  in  his  reports  declared :  — 

"  The  office  under  the  charge  of  Major  Stevens  has  improved 
in  the  system  and  order  of  every  one  of  its  divisions ;  and  the 
zeal  and  ability  of  the  assistant  in  charge  has  been  reflected  in 
the  spirit  of  the  officers  under  him,  and  in  the  general  diligence 
of  the  employees.  The  office  is  characterized  by  a  very  marked 
spirit  of  industry,  of  working  to  results,  and  of  progress.  Every 
encouragement,  as  it  should  be,  is  afforded  to  those  who  en- 
deavor to  advance  in  their  several  occupations. 


LIFE  IN  WASHINGTON  279 

"  The  office  work  has,  by  great  diligence  on  the  part  of  the 
persons  employed,  and  by  the  excellent  administrative  arrange- 
ments of  Major  Stevens,  been  kept  close  to  the  field  work. 
In  no  former  year  have  so  many  preliminary  sketches  been 
promptly  issued,  and  so  much  information  of  various  kinds 
been  published,  or  furnished  to  the  officers  of  government  or 
to  individuals." 


CHAPTER  XV 

GOVERNOR,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. EXPLORATION, 

NORTHERN  ROUTE 

The  triumph  of  the  Democratic  party  in  November, 
1853,  and  the  election  of  General  Franklin  Pierce  as  the 
next  President  insured  a  more  vigorous  policy  of  explo- 
ration and  settlement  of  the  vast  domain  stretching  from 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific.  Major  Stevens  was  strongly 
attracted  to  this  field.  It  appealed  to  his  ambition. 
It  afforded  a  greater  opportunity  for  public  service  and 
achievement.  Prominent  and  gratifying  as  was  the  posi- 
tion and  standing  he  held  in  Washington,  he  realized  its 
limitations.  He  knew,  too,  that  with  the  army  on  a 
peace  footing  and  filled  with  young  officers,  no  promo- 
tion in  his  corps  could  be  expected  for  years.  In  brief, 
feeling  the  powers  and  ambition  of  a  leader,  he  was  not 
content  to  remain  longer  a  subordinate. 

In  March  Congress  formed  the  new  Territory  of  Wash- 
ington out  of  the  northern  half  of  what  was  then  Ore- 
gon, being  the  territory  extending  from  the  Columbia 
River  and  the  46th  parallel  northward  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  to  the  British  Possessions  and  the  49th  par- 
allel, and  from  the  crest  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  west- 
ward six  hundred  miles  to  the  Pacific,  an  area  larger 
than  New  England  and  New  York  combined.  Save  a 
handful  of  settlers  on  the  lower  Columbia  and  the  shores 
of  Puget  Sound,  and  a  few  missionary  and  trading  posts 
in  the  interior,  the  whole  vast  region  was  unsettled,  and 
much  of  it  unexplored  by  civilized  man.     It  contained 


GOVERNOR,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY  281 

many  thousands  of  Indians,  some  of  whom  had  lately 
been  at  war  with  the  whites,  and  regarded  their  approach 
with  jealous  and  hostile  eyes ;  the  Indian  title  to  the  land 
had  not  been  extinguished ;  and  there  were  troublesome 
questions  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  which  still 
held  its  posts  in  the  Territory,  and  claimed  extensive 
rights  as  guaranteed  by  treaty. 

On  March  3  Congress  appropriated  $150,000  for  the 
exploration  and  survey  of  railroad  routes  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi to  the  Pacific,  to  be  expended  by  the  Secretary 
of  War  under  the  direction  of  the  President.  Jefferson 
Davis  entered  the  new  cabinet  as  Secretary  of  War,  and 
it  was  early  determined  to  survey  four  principal  routes 
to  the  Pacific. 

Early  in  the  year  Major  Stevens  applied  for  the  gov- 
ernorship of  the  new  Territory,  to  which  was  attached, 
ex  officio,  the  superintendency  of  Indian  affairs,  and  also 
for  the  charge  of  the  exploration  of  the  Northern  route. 
Either  of  these  fields  was  enough  to  fully  task  the  most 
able  and  energetic  man,  but  his  ambition  reached  for 
both.  Equally  characteristic  was  the  high  ground  upon 
which  he  based  his  application.  He  asked  the  appoint- 
ment, not  as  the  reward  of  political  services,  nor  for  the 
sake  of  personal  or  political  friendship,  but  because  he 
was  the  fittest  man  for  the  place,  the  one  who  could  best 
serve  the  public  interests.  He  told  General  Pierce  that 
if  he  could  find  any  one  else  better  qualified  for  the  posi- 
tion, who  would  accept  it,  it  was  his  duty  to  appoint  him. 
There  was  no  question  on  that  score.  But  his  wife  and 
many  of  his  friends  thought  that  he  was  making  a  great 
personal  sacrifice  in  relinquishing  the  enviable  position 
he  had  attained  in  Washington  for  the  toils,  hardships, 
and  dangers  of  the  Western  exploration  and  governorship. 
Professor  Bache  was  of  this  opinion,  and  deeply  regretted 
to  lose  his  efficient  assistant  and  friend. 


282  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  new  President  was  to  send 
the  name  of  Isaac  I.  Stevens  to  the  Senate  as  governor 
of  Washington  Territory ;  he  was  confirmed,  and  his 
commission  was  issued  March  17.  He  was  just  thirty- 
four  years  old,  in  the  prime  of  life  and  of  mental  and 
physical  powers. 

Major  Stevens's  letter  of  resignation  from  the  army 
and  General  Totten's  reply  show  the  cordial  and  appre- 
ciative feelings  of  both. 

Washington,  D.  C,  March  21, 1853. 
Brigadier-General  Joseph  G.  Totten, 

Chief  Engineer, 

Sir,  —  I  herewith  resign  my  commission  of  lieutenant  of  en- 
gineers and  brevet  major  United  States  army,  to  take  effect  on 
Wednesday,  the  16th  instant. 

This  resignation  is  tendered  with  a  profound  sense  of  the 
high  honor,  intelligence,  and  sentiment  of  duty  which  is  char- 
acteristic of  the  officers  with  whom  I  have  been  associated 
the  best  years  of  my  life,  whom  I  have  known  and  honored 
in  peace  and  war,  in  sunshine  and  in  storm,  and  whose  equals 
I  can  scarcely  expect  to  find  in  the  new  career  upon  which  I 
have  entered.  I  shall  carry  into  civil  life  the  conviction  that 
the  country  owes  the  army  a  debt  of  gratitude,  and  is  yet  to 
receive  signal  benefits  at  its  hands. 

This  conviction,  rest  assured,  will  show  itself  both  in  words 
and  deeds  whenever  the  service  has  to  be  vindicated  or  main- 
tained. 

To  yourself,  both  personally  and  officially,  as  a  friend  and  as 
a  superior  officer,  permit  me  to  acknowledge  the  kindness  and 
confidence  which  I  have  received  at  your  hands.  It  has  had 
no  hindrance  or  interruption  during  the  period  of  nearly  four- 
teen years,  many  of  them  years  of  weighty  responsibilities  and 
perplexing  cares,  during  which  I  have  served  under  your  com- 
mand. 

And  to  me,  sir,  not  only  my  commanding  officer,  but  my 
honored  friend,  it  is  the  completest  of  satisfactions  to  be  able 
to  say  that  during  my  service  in  the  army  I  have  not  bad  a 
serious  difficulty  with  a  brother  officer,  and  that  I  am  not  aware 


GOVERNOR,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY  283 

that  between  me  and  any  officer  in  or  out  of  the  service  there  is 
the  slightest  feeling  of  unkindness. 

Very  truly  and  respectfully, 

Your  friend  and  obedient  servant, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

Writes  General  Totten  in  reply :  — 

While  regretting  that  the  corps  of  engineers  are  thus  de- 
prived of  the  future  services  of  an  officer  whose  high  traits  of 
character  have,  both  in  peace  and  war,  so  fully  vindicated  its 
position,  I  anticipate  the  more  unhesitatingly  that  these  charac- 
teristic qualities  will  continue  to  procure  for  you,  in  the  new 
and  wider  scenes  on  which  you  have  now  entered,  all  the  re- 
wards which  they  so  justly  merit.  .  .  . 

For  myself,  I  have  to  make  acknowledgment  for  great  assist- 
ance rendered  in  every  form,  and  under  all  the  circumstances 
that  your  military  duties  admitted,  —  at  all  times  fulfilling  my 
wishes,  abridging  my  cares,  and  exalting  the  usefulness  and 
reputation  of  the  corps.  And  in  all  our  personal  relations  you 
have  observed  a  kind  consideration  which  I  have  fully  appre- 
ciated. These  things  have  created  a  warm  interest  in  your 
welfare,  and  make  me  feel  that,  while  the  service  is  losing  a 
most  valuable  officer,  I  am  parting  from  a  friend. 
I  remain  with  high  respect, 

J.  G.  Totten, 
Bvt.  Brig. -Gen,  and  Col.  Engineers. 

Major  Stevens  turned  over  the  charge  of  Fort  Knox 
to  Colonel  John  L.  Smith,  and  was  succeeded  on  the 
Coast  Survey  by  Captain  H.  W.  Benham.  Major  Ste- 
vens had  long  since  overcome  the  ill  feelings  excited  by 
the  vigorous  and  drastic  way  in  which  he  had  reformed 
the  office,  and  had  long  since  won  the  confidence  of  the 
force,  and  their  admiration  as  well.  They  deeply  re- 
gretted his  departure,  and  in  token  of  their  esteem  pre- 
sented him  with  a  beautiful  service  of  plate,  consisting 
of  a  large  silver  pitcher  and  salver,  with  two  goblets,  in 
repousse  work. 


284  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

PRESENTED   TO 

ISAAC   I.  STEVENS, 

GOVERNOR 

OF   THE   TERRITORY   OF  WASHINGTON, 

LATE  BREVET  MAJOR,   CORPS   OF  ENGINEERS,   U.  S.  A., 

AND  ASSISTANT   IN  CHARGE   OF   THE   OFFICE   OF  THE 

U.   S.   COAST   SURVEY, 

AS   A   TOKEN   OF  ESTEEM,  BY  HIS 

FRIENDS   ON   THE   SURVEY, 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C, 

MARCH,   1853. 

In  his  next  annual  report  after  Major  Stevens  had  left 
the  Coast  Survey,  Professor  Bache  remarks :  — 

"  The  gain  to  the  country  in  his  appointment,  and  especially 
to  that  new  region  to  which  he  has  been  called,  will  no  doubt 
be  great,  but  our  loss  is  proportionably  great.  An  administra- 
tive ability  of  a  high  order  was  joined  to  unceasing  activity  and 
great  force  of  character ;  varied  general  and  professional  know- 
ledge to  great  clearness  in  discerning  ends,  and  fixedness  of 
purpose  in  pursuing  them  ;  remarkable  knowledge  of  men,  and 
easy  control  of  those  connected  in  business  with  him,  to  per- 
sonal qualities  which  rendered  official  intercourse  agreeable  to 
those  about  him.  The  system  with  which  he  followed  up  plans, 
complicated  as  well  as  simple,  insured  success  in  his  adminis- 
tration, and  was  felt  in  every  department  of  the  office,  of  which 
he  had  thoroughly  mastered  the  details  as  well  as  the  general 
working.  The  experience  acquired  by  such  an  officer  is  inval- 
uable to  the  work,  and  not  soon  to  be  replaced,  whatever  may 
be  the  resources  of  his  successor." 

A  remark  of  Benbam's,  soon  after  he  assumed  charge, 
well  illustrates  his  egotistic  and  assuming  character : 
"  Major  Stevens  grew  up  with  the  office  from  its  infancy, 
but  I  grappled  the  lion  when  full-grown."  Benham  did 
not  long  remain  on  the  survey. 

Scarcely  was  the  ink  dry  on  his  commission,  when 
Governor  Stevens  set  to  work  to  obtain  charge  of  the 
exploration  of  the  Northern  route,  and  the  rapid  and 


GOVERNOR,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY  285 

masterly  way  in  which  he  effected  it,  and  planned  the 
survey  and  increased  its  magnitude  and  importance,  must 
have  astonished  the  red  tape  officials  of  Washington.  As 
usual,  all  his  recommendations  were  based  upon  the  high- 
est grounds  of  public  welfare  and  public  service.  On 
March  21  he  writes  the  Secretary  of  War,  Jefferson  Davis, 
a  strong  letter,  proposing  to  conduct  an  exploration  to 
determine  the  emigrant  route,  and  the  route  for  a  railroad 
from  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  to  Puget  Sound,  and 
submits  a  memoir  for  accomplishing  it  by  means  of  three 
parties,  with  estimates  of  organization  and  cost  in  detail, 
and  concludes,  "Should  an  expedition  be  intrusted  to 
my  charge,  I  pledge  the  devotion  of  all  my  force,  energy, 
and  judgment  to  its  accomplishment." 

The  following  day  he  addresses  the  Secretary  of  State, 
William  L.  Marcy,  submitting  his  project,  and  showing 
that  he  could  best  promote  the  interests  of  the  new  Ter- 
ritory by  exploring  the  route  to  it,  obtaining  a  large 
amount  of  useful  information  in  relation  to  the  agricul- 
tural, mineral,  commercial,  and  manufacturing  resources, 
and  publishing  the  information  thus  obtained,  thereby 
inviting  emigrants,  filling  up  the  Territory,  and  develop- 
ing its  resources.  He  shows  that  this  duty  need  not 
greatly  delay  the  organization  of  territorial  government, 
and  calls  attention  to  — 

"  the  great  influence  which  this  exploration  will  exercise  over 
the  Indian  tribes,  the  exceeding  efficiency  which  it  will  give 
to  me  in  discharge  of  my  duties  as  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs,  and  the  interesting  information  which  it  will  enable 
me  to  collect  in  regard  to  their  numbers,  customs,  locations, 
history,  and  traditions.  This  I  design  making  the  subject  of 
a  special  communication  to  the  Department  of  the  Interior. 
Should  my  views  meet  the  approbation  of  the  department, 
I  will  earnestly  request  that  the  necessary  communication  be 
had  with  the  War  Department  to  arrange  the  exploration  in 


286  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

conformity  with  the  plan  which  I  have  thus  rapidly  sketched. 
I  ask  that  it  be  done  with  the  least  possible  delay,  so  as  to 
insure  its  complete  success.  I  think  it  important  that  my 
arrangements  here  should  be  brought  to  a  close  in  sixteen  days, 
that  previous  to  that  time  competent  men  be  dispatched  to  the 
Mississippi  River  to  assure  the  expedition,  and  thus  we  shall 
all  be  hard  at  work  in  the  field  the  first  week  of  May." 

As  governor  he  was  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  State 
Department.      On  the  same  day  he  addresses  a  similar 
letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  Robert  McClelland, 
for,  as  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs,  he  came  under 
that  department.     Governor  Stevens  enforced  his  views 
by  personal  interviews  with  the  secretaries  and  the  Presi- 
dent ;   and  his  earnestness,   zeal  for  the  public  service, 
sound  judgment,  and  strong,  convincing  way  of  express- 
ing his  views,  carried  all  before  him.     Within  four  days 
his  proposal  to  lead  the  expedition  was  accepted,  and  all 
his  suggestions  adopted.     The  administration  were  only 
too  glad  to  find  such  a  man  to  head  the  most  important 
of  the  explorations  and  insure  its  success.     Perhaps  no 
part  of  his  career  more  clearly  stamped  Governor  Stevens 
as  a  born  leader  of  men  than  this.     At  a  time  when  the 
new  President  and  cabinet  were  overwhelmed  with  the 
pressing  questions  and  personal  claims  ever  engrossing 
the  incoming  administration,  a  mere  subordinate,  not  con- 
tent  to  simply  await  the   instructions  of  his  superiors, 
surveys  the  whole  field  of  Western  exploration  intrusted 
to  him,  and  its  attendant  problems  of  white  settlement, 
Indians,  etc.,  with  comprehensive  and  far-sighted  vision, 
decides  upon   the  measures  and  action  required  by  the 
needs  of  the  country  and  the  public  service,  and  then  so 
impresses  his  views  upon  the  President  and  three  great  de- 
partments by  sheer  force  of  character,  earnest  patriotism, 
and  sound,  good  sense,  that  all  his  recommendations  are 
adopted  without  delay,  and  he  is  given  carte  blanche  to 


GOVERNOR,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY  287 

carry  them  out.  The  bare  conception,  if  broached  in 
March,  when  the  new  administration  assumed  charge,  of 
obtaining  both  the  governorship  of  Washington  Territory 
and  the  charge  of  the  Northern  Pacific  exploration,  of 
inducing  three  secretaries  to  adopt  his  measures,  of  com- 
pletely organizing  and  outfitting  and  starting  in  the  field 
a  great  expedition  for  the  survey  of  two  thousand  miles  of 
wilderness,  and  all  to  be  accomplished  within  two  months, 
would  have  seemed  not  merely  bold,  but  visionary  and 
presumptuous,  and  nothing  could  have  relieved  Governor 
Stevens  from  such  reproach  but  the  fact  that  all  this  he 
actually  accomplished. 

The  following  letter  to  Jefferson  Davis,  Secretary  of 
War,  shows  how  energetically  Governor  Stevens  was 
already  gathering  information  and  assistance  for  the  ex- 
ploration. The  last  part  touches  upon  a  delicate  ques- 
tion, the  placing  army  officers  under  the  command  of  a 
civilian,  as  Governor  Stevens  now  was,  a  thing  repugnant 
to  all  military  ideas  and  usages,  and  almost  without  pre- 
cedent. But  Governor  Stevens  held  that  his  case  was 
altogether  exceptional,  and  found  no  difficulty  in  secur- 
ing the  voluntary  services  of  as  many  able  officers  as  he 
needed.  It  is  believed  that  there  is  no  similar  instance 
in  our  history  where  twelve  army  officers  came  under  the 
command  of  a  civilian  :  — 

Washington,  March  25, 1853. 
Hon.  Jefferson  Davis,  Secretary  of  War. 

Sir,  —  I  am  now  quite  certain  that  a  sufficient  number  of 
army  officers  will  volunteer  to  go  with  me  on  the  proposed  explo- 
ration from  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  to  Puget  Sound, 
as  will  much  reduce  the  force  of  civilians  to  be  employed. 
Several  accomplished  officers  would  be  glad  to  be  detailed,  and 
would  do  effective  service  as  astronomers,  engineers,  artists, 
naturalists,  draughtsmen,  etc.  I  can  make  arrangements  both 
with  the  American  Fur  and  Hudson  Bay  Company  for  active 
cooperation  and  assistance.     The  distinguished  geologist,  Dr. 


288  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

J.  Evans,  who  has  gone  over  the  greater  portion  of  the  country 
between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Pacific,  has  explored  two  of 
the  passes  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  north  of  the  South  Pass, 
and  has  received  much  information  of  the  topography  of  the 
country,  has  kindly  given  me  much  valuable  information,  and 
is  ready  to  cooperate  with  all  his  energy  in  a  plan  whereby 
each  shall  render  to  the  other  every  possible  facility,  and  best 
promote  the  public  service  without  an  unnecessary  expenditure 
of  means. 

I  think  it  exceedingly  important  that  the  whole  exploration 
from  the  Mississippi  River  to  Puget  Sound,  including  a  thorough 
examination  of  the  passes  of  the  Cascade  Range,  should  be 
placed  under  the  charge  of  the  same  person,  he,  under  general 
instructions  from  the  department,  giving  the  necessary  direction 
to  the  several  parties,  thus  securing  united  and  energetic  action, 
and  guarding  against  the  almost  certain  failure  of  the  expedi- 
tion should  it  be  divided  into  two  independent  commands.  As 
soon  as  the  department  shall  decide  upon  the  scale  of  the  opera- 
tions, and  shall  issue  its  orders  assigning  me  to  the  duty,  which 
I  presume  from  the  correspondence  with  the  Department  of 
State  to  be  definitely  decided  upon,  I  will  at  once  submit  a 
more  detailed  plan  of  operations,  and  make  the  necessary  re- 
quisition for  the  detail  of  officers,  and  for  the  various  facilities 
which  may  be  extended  by  the  administrative  branches  of  the 
service.  As  in  the  Coast  Survey,  I  propose  no  assignment  of 
officers  except  by  their  own  desire,  and  of  officers  who  have 
especial  adaptation  to  the  particular  duty. 

Very  respectfully  your  obedient  servant, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

Among  his  first  acts  Governor  Stevens,  on  March  31, 
applied  for  Brevet  Captain  George  B.  McClellan,  then  in 
Texas,  to  be  "  at  once  assigned  to  duty  with  me  as  my 
principal  officer.  I  design  to  put  him  in  charge  of  the 
exploration  of  the  Cascade  Range,  and  I  can  not  only 
speak  with  confidence  of  his  great  ability  for  the  par- 
ticular duty,  but  as  his  friend  can  say  that  the  duty  will 
be  in  the  highest  degree  agreeable  to  him.,, 


EXPLORATION,  NORTHERN  ROUTE       289 

Washington,  April  5, 1853. 

My  dear  McClellan,  —  I  have  succeeded  in  securing  your 
detail  to  take  charge  of  the  Western  party  in  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  survey. 

You  will  get  the  orders  to-day,  and  be  directed  probably  to 
repair  to  New  Orleans,  and  there  await  instructions.  The 
route  is  from  St.  Paul,  Minn.,  to  Puget  Sound  by  the  great 
bend  of  the  Missouri  River  through  a  pass  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains near  the  49th  parallel.  A  strong  party  will  operate  west- 
ward from  St.  Paul ;  a  second  but  smaller  party  will  go  up  the 
Missouri  to  the  Yellowstone,  and  there  make  arrangements, 
reconnoitre  the  country,  etc.,  and  on  the  junction  of  the  main 
party  they  will  push  through  the  Blackfoot  country,  and,  reach- 
ing the  Rocky  Mountains,  will  keep  at  work  there  during  the 
summer  months.  The  third  party,  under  your  command,  will 
be  organized  in  the  Puget  Sound  region,  you  and  your  scientific 
corps  going  over  the  Isthmus,  and  will  operate  in  the  Cascade 
Range,  and  meet  the  party  coming  from  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

As  soon  as  my  force  is  at  work  in  these  mountains,  I  shall 
push  forward  with  a  small  reconnoitring  force  and  find  you, 
and,  after  conference  with  you,  arrange  the  entire  plan  of 
operations. 

Your  scientific  corps  will  consist  of  a  physician  and  natural- 
ist, an  astronomer,  a  draughtsman  and  barometer  man,  and  an 
officer  of  the  artillery,  Johnson  K.  Duncan,  who,  I  am  informed 
by  Foster,  is  a  strong  friend  of  yours,  and  will  work  under  you. 
You  will  have  authority  to  call  upon  the  officers  and  troops 
stationed  in  the  Territories  of  Oregon  and  Washington,  and  I 
have  no  doubt  you  will  be  able  to  secure  valuable  assistance. 
At  the  same  time  funds  will  be  placed  in  your  hands  to  hire 
suitable  guides,  hunters,  etc.  A  complete  set  of  instruments 
and  appliances  will  be  sent  with  the  necessary  instructions. 

Your  friend,  Professor  Baird,  is  arranging  the  natural  his- 
tory part  of  the  business.  The  expedition  will  be  altogether 
the  most  complete  that  has  ever  set  out  in  this  country,  and  if 
we  are  true  to  it,  the  results  will  be  satisfactory  to  the  country. 
The  amount  of  work  in  the  Cascade  Range  and  eastward,  say 
to  the  probable  junction  of  the  parties  at  the  great  bend  of  the 
north  fork  of  the  Columbia  River,  will  be  immense.    Recollect, 


290  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  main  object  is  a  railroad  survey  from  the  headwaters  of 
the  Mississippi  River  to  Puget  Sound. 

We  must  rely  upon  the  ordinary  astronomical  observations 
in  the  field,  upon  the  odometer  and  barometer  and  the  compass, 
for  getting  the  direction,  length,  and  profiles  of  routes.  With 
the  sextant  for  determining  height  along  the  route,  and  with  a 
good  sketcher  and  draughtsman,  you  will  be  able  to  get  good 
results.  I  may  get  for  you  a  small  detachment  of  sappers,  and 
I  shall  try  to  get  you  assigned  to  duty  according  to  your  brevet 
rank. 

I  telegraphed  you  some  days  since,  asking  your  views,  but 
in  consequence  of  your  great  distance  from  Washington  it  was 
essential  to  act  at  once.  Knowing  your  views  so  intimately  in 
relation  to  such  service,  and  venturing  on  our  long  acquaint- 
ance and  mutual  friendship,  I  have  in  the  strongest  terms 
pressed  your  case,  on  the  ground  that,  could  you  be  consulted, 
the  duty  would  be  sought  by  you.  In  my  telegraphic  message 
I  informed  you  that  I  was  put  in  charge  of  the  duty  in  conse- 
quence of  my  civil  position.  It  has  been  done  at  the  joint 
desire  of  the  War  Department,  of  the  Department  of  State, 
and  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior.  Officers  have  volun- 
teered for  the  service,  and  I  shall  receive  the  services  of  several 
very  valuable  and  experienced  men.  I  have  in  the  strongest 
terms  taken  the  ground  that  my  having  left  the  army  and 
standing  in  a  civil  position  would  not,  under  the  circumstances 
of  the  case,  be  any  objection  on  your  part  to  acting  under  my 
direction. 

As  your  friend,  and  knowing  the  opportunity  for  distinction 
it  would  give  you,  I  would  not  hesitate  for  a  moment. 

One  word  more  as  to  the  railroad  survey.  We  must  not  be 
frightened  with  long  tunnels  or  enormous  snows,  but  set  our- 
selves to  work  to  overcome  them.  When  you  reach  New 
Orleans  you  will  find  your  instructions. 

Truly  your  friend, 

Isaac  I.  Stevens. 

The  warning  in  the  last  paragraph  seems  almost  pro- 
phetic ;  for,  as  will  be  seen  hereafter,  McClellan's  fear  of 
deep  snows  caused  him  to  fail  in  an  important  part  of 


EXPLORATION,  NORTHERN  ROUTE        291 

his  survey  of  the  Cascade  passes,  viz.,  the  determining 
the  depth  of  winter  snow. 

Governor  Stevens  also  obtained  the  detail  for  his  sur- 
vey of  Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  of  the  engineer  corps, 
and  ten  non-commissioned  officers  and  men,  of  the  engi- 
neer company,  also  known  as  sappers  and  miners,  and  of 
Lieutenant  Beekman  Du  Barry,  of  the  3d  artillery.  He 
also  obtained  from  the  War  Department  authority  to  call 
upon  the  several  army  administrative  departments  for 
transportation,  subsistence,  and  arms,  and  even  the  pay  of 
two  civilian  surgeons  and  naturalists,  thus  providing  for 
all  the  expenses  of  the  expedition  except  those  pertaining 
to  civilians  employed  as  a  scientific  corps  and  their 
assistants,  which  were  to  be  defrayed  by  the  funds 
allotted  to  the  Northern  route  out  of  the  civil  appropria- 
tion, viz.,  $40,000  out  of  the  $150,000  thus  appropriated. 
By  these  arrangements  he  vastly  increased  the  extent, 
thoroughness,  and  value  of  his  exploration. 

On  April  7  Governor  Stevens  sent  Lieutenant  Donel- 
son to  Montreal  armed  with  letters  from  the  British 
Minister  in  Washington  to  Sir  George  Simpson,  governor 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  to  obtain  all  the  informa- 
tion possible  relative  to  the  country  from  the  Great 
Lakes  to  the  Pacific,  the  location  of  the  trading-posts, 
the  amount  of  supplies  obtainable  from  them  for  the 
exploration  party  in  case  of  emergency,  the  names  of 
hunters  and  half-breeds  who  might  serve  as  guides  and 
interpreters,  and  to  learn  all  possible  about  the  geography, 
and  examine  all  books  and  maps,  making  copies  of  the 
latter  if  necessary,  etc. 

"  The  information  we  already  have  of  this  region,"  he  writes 
Donelson,  "  is  based  upon  the  following  works  :  Lewis  and 
Clarke's  Travels;  Irving's  Astoria  and  Rocky  Mountains;  Trav- 
els by  the  Missionary  De  Smet,  Nicollet,  and  Pope ;  Governor 
Simpson's  Journey  around  the  World ;  and  some  information, 


292  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

not  yet  published,  obtained  from  Dr.  Evans  on  his  geological 
survey  of  those  regions.  A  book  recommended  by  the  British 
Minister,  'Hudson  Bay  Company,'  by  Montgomery  Martin,  I 
wish  you  to  obtain.  He  suggested  it  might  be  obtained  from 
Governor  Simpson.  As  soon  as  you  have  finished  your  inquiries 
at  Montreal,  which  I  think  you  can  do  in  a  week,  return  to 
Washington,  and  report  to  me  in  person. 

"  In  reference  to  the  detachment  (sappers),  it  is  necessary 
that  the  men  be  selected  with  great  care.  None  should  be  taken 
who  cannot  assist  the  scientific  corps  as  sketchers,  draughtsmen, 
or  collectors,  etc.  It  is  necessary  that  they  should  be  put  under 
special  training.  Captain  Seymour,  perhaps,  might  be  willing 
to  take  charge  of  one,  and  Lieutenant  Du  Barry  of  another, 
giving  them  instructions  in  the  use  of  the  barometer  and  astro- 
nomical instruments  used  in  the  field." 

This  is  interesting  as  showing*  how  little  was  then 
known  of  the  region  to  be  explored,  and  how  few  and 
meagre  were  the  works  describing  it. 

Governor  Stevens  had  thus  been  driving  the  work  of 
preparation  and  organization  for  a  fortnight,  when,  on 
April  8,  the  formal  order  placing  him  in  charge  and 
giving  full  instructions  was  issued  by  the  War  Depart- 
ment. These  instructions  exactly  embody  his  own  sug- 
gestions, much  of  them  in  the  very  language  of  his 
letters  and  memoir  to  Secretary  Davis,  In  fact,  he  really 
prepared  his  own  instructions.  The  following  brief 
synopsis  will  give  some  idea  of  the  scope  and  magnitude 
of  the  exploration,  of  the  task  Governor  Stevens  had  set 
himself :  — 

1.  The  exploration  and  survey  of  a  route  for  a  rail- 
road from  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  River  to  Puget 
Sound  is  placed  in  charge  of  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  governor 
of  the  Territory  of  Washington,  to  whom  all  officers 
detailed  for  the  same  will  report  for  instructions. 

2.  To  operate  from  St.  Paul,  or  some  eligible  point  on 
the  Upper  Mississippi,  towards  the  great  bend  of  the 


EXPLORATION,  NORTHERN  ROUTE  293 

Missouri  River,  and  thence  on  the  table-land  between  the 
tributaries  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Saskatchewan  to  some 
eligible  pass  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  A  depot  to  be 
established  at  Fort  Union,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, with  a  subsidiary  party  to  await  the  coming  of  the 
main  party.  A  second  party  to  proceed  to  Puget  Sound 
and  explore  the  passes  of  the  Cascade  Range,  meeting 
the  eastern  party  between  that  range  and  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  as  may  be  arranged  by  Governor  Stevens. 

3.  To  explore  the  passes  of  the  Cascade  Range  and 
Rocky  Mountains  from  the  49th  parallel  to  the  head- 
waters of  the  Missouri  River,  and  to  determine  the  capa- 
city of  the  adjacent  country  to  supply,  and  of  the  Colum- 
bia and  Missouri  rivers  and  their  tributaries  to  transport, 
materials  for  the  construction  of  the  road,  great  attention 
to  be  given  geography  and  meteorology  of  the  whole 
intermediate  region,  to  the  seasons  and  character  of 
freshets ;  the  quantities  and  continuance  of  its  rains  and 
snows,  especially  in  the  mountain  ranges ;  to  its  geology ; 
in  arid  regions  the  use  of  artesian  wells;  its  botany, 
natural  history,  agricultural  and  mineral  resources;  the 
location,  numbers,  history,  traditions,  and  customs  of  its 
Indian  tribes ;  and  such  other  facts  as  shall  tend  to  de- 
velop the  character  of  that  portion  of  our  national 
domain,  and  supply  all  the  facts  that  enter  into  the  solu- 
tion of  the  particular  problem  of  a  railroad. 

4-7.  Assigns  to  survey,  in  addition  to  those  already 
assigned,  Captain  John  W.  T.  Gardiner,  1st  dragoons ; 
Second  Lieutenant  Johnson  K.  Duncan,  3d  artillery; 
Second  Lieutenant  Ruf  us  Saxton,  4th  artillery ;  Second 
Lieutenant  Cuvier  Grover,  4th  artillery;  and  Brevet 
Second  Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  1st  artillery ;  and  twenty 
picked  men  of  the  1st  dragoons  and  two  officers  and 
thirty  men  to  Captain  McClellan's  party. 

8.    The  administrative  branches  of  the  army,  on  requi- 


294  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

sition  approved  by  Governor  Stevens,  to  supply  the  officers, 
soldiers,  and  civil  employees  of  the  expedition  (except 
the  scientific  corps  and  their  assistants),  with  transporta- 
tion, subsistence,  medical  stores,  and  arms,  and  to  furnish 
funds  for  the  same  when  not  supplied  in  kind. 

9-10.  After  completion  of  field  work,  the  expedition 
to  rendezvous  at  some  suitable  point  in  Washington  Ter- 
ritory to  be  designated  by  Governor  Stevens,  and  reports 
to  be  prepared.  ♦  Officers  and  enlisted  men  to  be  sent  to 
their  stations  and  employees  to  be  discharged. 

11.  $40,000  set  apart  from  the  appropriation  for  the 
survey  thus  intrusted  to  Governor  Stevens. 

It  is  difficult  to  realize  the  magnitude  of  the  task  here 
outlined.  It  was  to  traverse  and  explore  a  domain  two 
thousand  miles  in  length  by  two  hundred  and  fifty  in 
breadth,  stretching  from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean,  across  a  thousand  miles  of  arid  plains  and  two 
great  mountain  ranges,  a  region  almost  unexplored,  and 
infested  by  powerful  tribes  of  predatory  and  warlike  sav- 
ages ;  to  determine  the  navigability  of  the  two  great  rivers, 
the  Missouri  and  the  Columbia,  which  intersect  the  region ; 
to  locate  by  reconnoissance  and  to  survey  a  practicable 
railroad  route;  to  examine  the  mountain  passes  and  de- 
termine the  depth  of  winter  snows  in  them ;  to  collect  all 
possible  information  on  the  geology,  climate,  flora  and 
fauna,  as  well  as  the  topography,  of  the  region  traversed  ; 
and  finally  to  treat  with  the  Indians  on  the  route,  cultivate 
their  friendship,  and  collect  information  as  to  their  lan- 
guages, numbers,  customs,  traditions,  and  history ;  and  all 
this,  including  the  work  of  preparation  and  organization, 
to  be  accomplished  in  a  single  season. 

It  was  Governor  Stevens's  plan  to  effect  this  vast  work 
by  means  of  two  parties  operating  simultaneously  from 
both  ends  of  the  route,  the  principal  one  starting  from  St. 
Paul  at  the  eastern  end,  under  his  own  immediate  charge ; 


EXPLORATION,  NORTHERN  ROUTE  295 

and  the  other,  starting  from  the  western  end,  under 
McClellan,  to  meet  on  the  upper  Columbia  plains  between 
the  two  great  mountain  ranges;  and  two  subsidiary 
parties,  —  one,  under  Lieutenant  Donelson,  to  ascend  the 
Missouri  to  Fort  Union  with  a  stock  of  supplies,  and  there 
await  the  coming  of  the  main  party  ;  and  the  other,  under 
Lieutenant  Saxton,  to  proceed  from  the  lower  Columbia  to 
the  Bitter  Root  valley,  in  the  heart  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, with  an  additional  stock  of  supplies  for  the  main 
party.  The  subsidiary  parties  were  also  to  examine  the 
country  traversed  by  them,  and  collect  all  the  information 
possible  bearing  on  the  various  objects  of  the  expedition. 
By  this  plan  McClellan  was  required  simply  to  explore  the 
Cascade  Range,  or  about  200  miles  of  the  route ;  while 
Governor  Stevens  allotted  all  the  remainder,  some  1800 
miles,  including  the  great  plains,  the  Rocky  and  Bit- 
ter Root  Mountains,  to  the  parties  under  his  immediate 
charge. 

During  the  next  four  weeks  Governor  Stevens  drove 
forward  the  work  of  preparing  and  organizing  the  ex- 
pedition with  tremendous  energy.  He  applied  for  and 
obtained  the  assignments  of  officers  and  men  from  the 
army ;  made  requisitions  upon  the  administrative  branches 
for  supplies  and  funds  for  the  several  parties ;  obtained 
$6000  from  the  Interior  Department  for  the  purchase  of 
Indian  goods  and  for  treating  with  them ;  employed  A. 
W.  Tinkham,  his  former  assistant  at  Fort  Knox,  and  Fred. 
W.  Lander,  afterwards  the  Brigadier-General  Lander 
who  was  wounded  at  Ball's  Bluff  and  died  of  his  wounds, 
as  civil  engineers ;  appointed  George  W.  Stevens  as  secre- 
tary and  astronomer;  placed  Professor  Baird,  of  the 
Smithsonian,  in  charge  of  the  zoological  and  botanical  col- 
lections, and  of  preparing  the  outfits  and  instructions  for 
field  work  ;  made  Isaac  Osgood,  his  former  clerk  at  Bucks- 
port,  disbursing  officer;  Dr.  John  Evans,  geologist;  Drs. 


296  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

George  Suckley  and  J.  G.  Cooper,  surgeons  and  natural- 
ists ;  J.  M.  Stanley,  artist,  and  engaged  a  number  of  other 
subordinates,  including  six  young  gentlemen  who  went  as 
aides. 

Early  in  April  Lieutenant  Saxton  and  Lieutenant  Dun- 
can started  for  the  Columbia  via  the  Isthmus  and  San 
Francisco,  with  detailed  instructions,  that  no  time  might 
be  lost  in  organizing  the  western  parties,  and  were  fol- 
lowed by  McClellan  as  soon  as  he  reached  Washington 
from  Texas  and  received  his  instructions.  He  was  also 
furnished  by  Governor  Stevens  with  letters  from  Sir 
George  Simpson  to  the  officers  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany's posts,  and  with  letters  from  the  governor  to  many 
of  the  prominent  American  settlers  in  Washington  and 
Oregon,  and  also  a  circular  letter  bespeaking  their  good- 
will and  support  for  Captain  McClellan. 

Governor  Stevens  also  placed  under  McClellan's  charge 
the  construction  of  a  military  wagon-road  from  Fort  Stei- 
lacoom,  on  Puget  Sound,  to  Fort  Walla  Walla  on  the 
Columbia,  for  which  Congress  had  appropriated  $20,000, 
and  which  the  Secretary  of  War  had  placed  in  Governor 
Stevens's  hands,  with  authority  to  assign  an  officer  or  a 
civil  engineer  to  its  construction,  as  he  deemed  best.  The 
governor  gave  very  full  instructions  in  regard  to  this 
road ;  furnished  the  names  of  prominent  citizens  and 
advised  McClellan  to  consult  with  them  as  to  the  best 
location  for  the  road,  and  gave  him  full  notes  of  his  cor- 
respondence with  them  bearing  on  the  matter. 

Sir  George  Simpson  having  proposed  to  forward  an 
extra  stock  of  supplies  to  his  posts  in  the  interior  for  the 
expedition,  Governor  Stevens  made  haste  to  decline  the 
proffered  assistance,  not  wishing  to  incur  such  an  obli- 
gation to  a  foreign  company,  assuring  Sir  George  that  his 
own  government  would  provide  ample  supplies,  and  that 
he  merely  wished  to   know  what  the  company's  posts 


EXPLORATION,  NORTHERN  ROUTE  297 

could  spare  from  their  usual  stock  in  case  of  emergency. 
On  this  point  he  is  emphatic  in  his  instructions  to  Saxton 
and  McClellan  :  — 

"  I  am  exceedingly  desirous  no  exertion  should  be  spared  to 
have  means  of  our  own  for  our  expedition,  and  shall  much 
prefer  to  be  in  condition  to  extend  aid  than  to  be  obliged  to 
receive  aid  from  others.  Whilst  we  will  gratefully  receive  aid 
from  the  company  in  case  of  necessity,  let  it  be  our  determi- 
nation to  have  within  ourselves  the  means  of  the  most  complete 
efficacy.  I  am  more  and  more  convinced  that  in  our  operations 
we  should  be  self-dependent,  and  whilst  we  exchange  courtesies 
and  hospitalities  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  the  people 
and  the  Indians  of  the  Territory  should  see  that  we  have  all  the 
elements  of  success  in  our  hands.  The  Indians  must  look  to  us 
for  protection  and  counsel.  They  must  see  that  we  are  their 
true  friends,  and  be  taught  not  to  look,  as  they  have  been  accus- 
tomed to,  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  I  am  so  impressed  \ 
with  this  fact  that  I  wish  no  Indian  presents  to  be  procured  from 
British  posts.  I  am  determined,  in  my  intercourse  with  the 
Indians,  to  break  up  the  ascendency  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, and  permit  no  authority  or  sanction  to  come  between  the 
Indians  and  the  officers  of  this  government." 

The  Hudson  Bay  Company  still  held  trading-posts 
in  the  new  Territory  at  Steilacoom,  Vancouver,  Walla 
Walla,  and  Colville,  and  claimed  extensive  but  ill-de- 
fined rights  and  possessions,  and  its  officers  lost  no  op- 
portunity to  cultivate  the  goodwill  of  Governor  Stevens, 
hoping  to  win  his  favoring  view,  if  not  support,  of  their 
claims. 

Lieutenants  Donelson  and  Mullan,  with  part  of  the 
sappers,  were  sent  to  St.  Louis  to  prepare  the  supplies, 
etc.,  for  ascending  the  Missouri  to  Fort  Union.  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  had  already  ascertained  by  correspondence 
the  character  of  the  river  boats  at  St.  Louis  and  at  Pitts- 
burg, and  the  cost  of  purchasing  or  chartering  them,  but 
was  unable  to  find  one  of  sufficiently  light  draught  and 


298  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

power,  and  therefore  decided  to  send  the  party  by  the 
American  Fur  Company's  boat. 

Captain  Gardiner  was  dispatched  to  St.  Paul  to  select 
the  dragoon  detachment,  establish  a  camp,  and  make  pre- 
liminary arrangements  for  starting  the  main  party  afield 
as  early  as  possible.  The  civil  engineers,  Lander  and 
Tinkham,  were  also  sent  to  the  same  point  to  examine 
the  crossings  of  the  Mississippi  and  their  approaches. 

Lieutenant  Grover,  as  assistant  quartermaster  and  com- 
missary of  the  expedition,  was  also  sent  to  St.  Louis, 
assisted  by  a  civilian  employee,  to  procure  supplies  and 
forward  them  to  St.  Paul.  Lieutenant  Du  Barry  was 
directed  to  push  on  beyond  St.  Paul  to  Pembina  to  pro- 
cure guides. 

The  most  detailed  and  careful  instructions  were  fur- 
nished all  these  officers;  requisitions  and  arrangements 
made  with  the  officers  of  the  army  administrative  branches 
in  Washington,  St.  Louis,  St.  Paul,  San  Francisco,  and 
Vancouver  for  the  outfit  and  supply  of  the  different  par- 
ties ;  all  existing  information  in  the  way  of  maps,  reports, 
etc.,  was  copied  and  furnished,  and  full  instructions  for 
the  making  and  preservation  of  natural  history  collec- 
tions, and  for  the  astronomical  and  meteorological  obser- 
vations were  prepared  and  printed,  and  placed  in  the 
hands  of  all  those  having  charge  of  those  branches. 

The  very  full,  carefully  considered,  and  complete  in- 
structions given  these  various  officers  by  Governor  Ste- 
vens would  fill  two  hundred  pages.  They  are  not  only  a 
remarkable  monument  of  industry,  but  show  a  complete 
grasp  and  mastery  of  the  whole  field,  great  foresight  of 
the  conditions  and  difficulties  to  be  encountered,  and  are 
remarkably  clear  and  precise  in  stating  the  objects  to  be 
obtained,  but  leave  much  to  the  judgment  of  the  officer 
addressed  in  the  ways  and  means  of  attaining  them. 

Not  content  with  omnivorously  devouring  all  the  books, 


EXPLORATION,  NORTHERN  ROUTE        299 

reports,  and  maps  upon  the  field  of  operations,  and  seek- 
ing information  by  correspondence  with  the  officers  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company  and  citizens  of  Oregon  and 
Washington,  Governor  Stevens  procured  and  studied  all 
the  available  works  on  the  steppes  of  Russia  and  Asia,  as 
throwing  light  upon  the  formation  and  characteristics  of 
the  great  plains. 

During  these  four  weeks  the  Third  Street  house  was 
filled  with  clerks  and  draughtsmen,  hard  at  work  on  in- 
structions, requisitions,  maps,  etc.,  with  officers  and  civil 
employees  conferring  as  to  their  duties  and  making  pre- 
parations, and  with  many  others  anxious  to  accompany 
the  expedition  and  seeking  positions  upon  it ;  and  was 
crammed  from  garret  to  cellar  with  books,  maps,  papers, 
instruments,  arms,  and  other  paraphernalia  incident  to 
such  an  undertaking.  Professor  Baird  took  the  greatest 
interest  in  the  scientific  collections,  preparing  rules,  and 
getting  up  panniers  and  apparatus,  and  made  that  fea- 
ture so  important  that  Governor  Stevens  was  impelled  to 
say,  "  I  want  you  to  understand,  Professor  Baird,  that 
my  exploration  is  something  more  than  a  natural-history 
expedition."  The  fitting  out  of  the  expedition  attracted 
much  attention  in  Washington,  and  the  parlors  were  filled 
every  evening  with  gentlemen  connected  with  or  inter- 
ested in  it.  Among  them  was  Fred.  W.  Lander,  a  tall, 
athletic  young  man,  confident  in  bearing,  frank  and  ready 
in  conversation,  and  fond  of  relating  the  adventurous  ex- 
periences and  escapes,  especially  with  horses,  into  which 
his  daring  not  to  say  reckless  disposition  often  led  him. 
Lieutenant  George  B.  McClellan,  afterwards  the  well- 
known  commander  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac,  was 
of  charming  manners  and  personality.  On  being  asked 
how  he  liked  being  under  Governor  Stevens,  he  replied, 
"  At  any  rate,  I  shall  serve  under  a  man  of  brains."  Lieu- 
tenants Saxton  and  Grover  rose  to  be  major-generals  in 


300  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  Civil  War.  General  Joseph  Lane,  who  represented 
Oregon  in  Congress,  was  a  frequent  caller.  He  was  a 
man  of  native  grace  and  dignity  of  manner  and  fine  char- 
acter, —  one  of  nature's  noblemen. 

The  energy  and  capacity  for  effective  work  displayed 
by  Governor  Stevens  during  this  time  astonished  his 
friends.  His  labors  with  the  pen  alone  were  enough  to 
fully  occupy  any  man.  Besides  this,  he  was  incessantly 
engaged  in  consultations,  conferences,  and  interviews  with 
the  subordinates  and  others,  and  was  embracing  every 
opportunity  of  talking  with  men  who  had  experience  on 
the  plains  or  the  Pacific  coast.  George  Stevens  declared 
that  no  human  being  could  stand  such  a  strain,  and  on 
another  occasion  exclaimed,  "  The  major  is  crazy,  actu- 
ally crazy,  or  he  never  could  work  as  he  does  !  " 

In  just  a  month  from  the  date  of  the  order  placing 
him  in  charge,  Governor  Stevens  had  effected  the  whole 
work  of  organization  and  outfitting,  and  on  May  9  left 
Washington  for  St.  Paul  to  start  the  expedition.  During 
the  same  month  he  also  broke  up  housekeeping,  disposed 
of  his  furniture,  and  moved  his  family  into  private  lodg- 
ings. His  wife  was  seriously  ill,  and  was  obliged  to  re- 
main in  Washington  with  her  young  child  and  her  sister 
Mary  until  sufficiently  recovered  to  stand  the  journey  to 
Newport. 

He  also  at  this  time  selected  and  purchased  of  D.  Apple- 
ton  &  Co.,  of  New  York,  the  Territorial  Library,  —  for 
which  $5000  had  been  appropriated  by  Congress,  —  and 
had  the  books  sent  out  by  sea  around  Cape  Horn.  This 
was  no  small  task,  for  he  went  over  the  lists  of  books  and 
made  the  selection  with  great  pains.  He  stated  in  his  first 
message  to  the  legislature  that  he  had  taken  care  to  get 
the  best  books  in  each  department  of  learning,  and  had 
applied  to  the  executive  of  every  State  and  Territory  and 
to  many  learned  societies  to  donate  their  publications. 


EXPLORATION,   NORTHERN  ROUTE  301 

This  work  is  not  the  place  to  narrate  the  progress  and 
results  of  that  great  exploration  and  survey.  They  are 
ably  and  fully  recorded  by  Governor  Stevens  himself  in 
three  large  volumes,  comprising  1500  pages,  with  many 
views  and  illustrations,  published  by  Congress,  being  the 
first  and  twelfth  volumes  (the  latter  in  two  parts)  of  "  Re- 
ports of  the  Explorations  and  Surveys  for  a  Railroad 
Route  from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean." 
And  it  is  only  from  these  pages  that  one  can  learn  and 
appreciate  with  what  thoroughness  and  completeness  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  executed  the  vast  work  intrusted  to  him. 
For  years  these  volumes  were  the  great  storehouse  of 
information  relating  to  the  region  treated  by  them,  the 
source  of  innumerable  reports  and  articles,  and  are  to-day 
full  of  interest  and  valuable  information.  These  reports 
really  embody  the  results  of  three  years'  labors.  And  it 
will  be  related  farther  on  how  Governor  Stevens,  not  con- 
tent with  having  most  successfully  conducted  his  explora- 
tion across  the  continent  in  one  season  and  fully  per- 
formed his  instructions,  did,  of  his  own  patriotic  devotion 
to  the  public  interests,  carry  on  that  great  work  for  two 
years  longer,  using  the  Indian  service  and  the  volunteer 
forces  under  his  command,  and  gave  the  full  and  final 
results  of  his  labors  in  vol.  xii.,  published  in  1860. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

THE   PARTY. THE   START 

Leaving  Washington  May  9,  and,  after  spending  a 
day  in  New  York  to  complete  arrangements,  going  by 
way  of  Detroit  and  Chicago,  Governor  Stevens  reached 
St.  Louis  on  the  15th.  Here  he  was  disappointed  in 
finding  the  outfits  not  so  far  advanced  as  he  expected, 
and  was  even  seriously  alarmed  at  the  mules  furnished 
by  the  St.  Louis  quartermaster,  which  were  only  three  or 
four  years  old,  and  perfectly  wild  and  unbroken.  This 
was  the  more  inexcusable  from  the  fact  that  he  had  pre- 
viously sent  Mr.  Charles  Taplin  to  St.  Louis  with  instruc- 
tions that  only  well-broken  and  serviceable  animals  were 
to  be  procured.  Consequently  he  remained  there  a  week 
hastening  the  necessary  outfits,  during  which  time  he 
started  Lieutenant  Donelson's  party  up  the  Missouri  on 
the  American  Fur  Company's  steamboat  with  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  Mr.  William  H.  Graham,  and  six  sappers,  and 
10,000  rations.  Dr.  John  Evans  and  Mr.  Alexander 
Culbertson  also  accompanied  them.  The  latter,  having 
spent  twenty  years  on  the  upper  Missouri  as  a  fur-trader 
and  married  a  Blackfoot  squaw,  had  great  influence  over 
that  warlike  tribe.  He  was  appointed  by  Governor  Ste- 
vens as  special  agent  for  these  predatory  and  intractable 
savages,  and  sent  forward  to  prepare  the  way  for  the 
expedition  through  their  country  by  securing  guides  and 
hunters  and  arranging  for  a  council. 

Leaving  St.  Louis  on  the  23d  and  proceeding  up  the 
Mississippi,   Governor   Stevens,  in   order   to  repair  the 


ST.  PAUL  303 

neglect  of  the  quartermaster,  purchased  at  the  several 
landings  and  at  Galena  a  number  of  teams  of  strong, 
well-broken  mules  and  horses,  in  some  instances  taking 
them  off  the  wagons  where  they  were  at  work.  Four 
days  were  spent  on  the  Father  of  Waters. 

"  Leaving  Galena  on  the  25th,"  says  the  governor,  "  on  the 
steamer  Nominee,  we  proceeded  up  the  river,  and  were  enabled 
to  make  short  stops  at  Dubuque,  Prairie  du  Chien,  Lansing, 
La  Crosse,  and  other  places.  Intervals  of  leisure  were  em- 
ployed in  reporting  fully  to  the  War  and  Interior  Departments 
my  proceedings  thus  far,  and  the  arrangements  in  contempla- 
tion for  the  execution  of  my  several  trusts.  The  scenery  on 
the  Mississippi  is  bold  and  at  times  beautiful,  though  but  little 
variety  is  presented.  Bluff  banks  on  both  sides,  topped  with 
trees,  line  its  banks,  and  occasionally  marked  views  occur, 
among  which  I  might  mention  as  most  prominent  Lake  Pepin, 
Maiden  Eock,  Barn  Bluffs,  etc. 

"  St.  Paul  is  beautifully  situated  upon  a  high  bluff  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  river,  and  is  rapidly  growing  in  size  and  im- 
portance." 

St.  Paul  is  said  in  the  report  to  have  then  had  a  popu- 
lation of  1200. 

While  on  the  Nominee,  Governor  Stevens  writes  a  let- 
ter of  eight  pages  to  his  wife's  brother,  Mr.  Daniel  L. 
Hazard,  who  had  had  much  experience  with  Mississippi 
boats, — but  was  then  at  Newport  recovering  from  malarial 
illness,  —  on  the  draught,  power,  and  size  of  steamboats 
suitable  for  the  navigation  of  the  upper  Missouri,  and 
suggests  to  him  the  opportunity  for  steamboating  on 
Puget  Sound,  concluding  with  the  following  remarks, 
showing  his  own  feelings  towards  the  new  country,  and 
how  completely  he  was  adopting  it :  — 

"I  have  no  doubt  that  it  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  and 
salubrious  regions  in  the  whole  country,  with  all  the  health  of 
Newport,  but  with  a  grandeur  and  largeness  of  scenery  far  sur- 
passing ikv  It  is  just  such  a  place  as  I  have  for  many  years 


304  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

proposed  to  myself,  one  of  these  days,  to  carve  out  a  home.  I 
am  satisfied  my  family  will  all  be  pleased  with  their  new  home, 
and  that  we  will  be  willing  to  settle  down  there  for  life." 

Long  before  daylight  the  next  morning  after  reaching 
St.  Paul,  Governor  Stevens  was  in  the  saddle,  riding  to 
the  camp  established  by  Captain  Gardiner  two  days  be- 
fore, and  had  the  pleasure  of  rousing  the  gentlemen  of 
the  expedition  from  their  sleep.  The  camp  was  situated 
on  the  borders  of  Lake  Amelia,  about  nine  miles  from  St. 
Paul  and  about  three  northwest  from  Fort  Snelling,  and, 
in  honor  of  the  President,  the  governor  named  it  Camp 
Pierce. 

"  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  eastward  lay  another  lake, 
connected  with  Lake  Amelia  by  a  creek,  which  was  very  con- 
venient for  watering  our  animals,  and  formed  a  fine  meadow 
on  which  they  grazed.  These  lakes  furnished  us  with  fish  in 
abundance,  consisting  of  bass,  pickerel,  and  sunfish. 

"  The  mules  presented  a  fine  appearance,  and  were  apparently 
strong  and  healthy,  though  young,  and  even  more  unbroken  and 
unserviceable  than  I  had  feared.  Not  a  single  full  team  of 
broken  animals  could  be  selected,  and  well-broken  riding  ani- 
mals were  essential,  for  most  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  scientific 
corps  were  unaccustomed  to  riding.  I  felt  that  time  was  pre- 
cious and  a  great  difficulty  to  be  overcome,  so  at  once  resolved 
that  the  whole  force  should  set  to  work  to  break  them.  Fortu- 
nately, my  purchase  of  mules  along  the  river  enabled  me  to 
break  in  the  animals  rapidly  to  the  teams,  by  which  they  were 
started  several  days  earlier  than  otherwise  could  have  been 
done." 

A  letter  of  George  W.  Stevens  gives  the  following 
amusing  account  of  the  scenes  which  occurred  when 
every  man,  by  the  governor's  order,  set  to  work  to  break 
his  own  mule  :  — 

"  Of  the  200  mules  received,  much  to  the  chagrin  and  disap- 
pointment of  the  major,  not  ten  of  them  were  broken.  But 
though  the  unbroken  and  unqualified  age  of  our  young  mules 


BREAKING  MULES  305 

presented  a  hindrance,  the  major  has  the  more  vigorously  cut 
out  his  plans.  In  a  week's  time,  of  very  hard  labor  on  the  part 
of  the  men,  we  were  able  to  move.  Even  the  members  of  the 
scientific  corps  put  their  shoulders  to  the  wheel,  and  each 
gentleman  broke  his  own  riding  animal.  The  operation  of 
breaking  these  most  stubborn  of  creatures  was  highly  exciting 
and  interesting.  First  they  were  tolled  into  a  corral  by  leading 
in  the  bell  mare,  which  they  follow  with  the  most  laughable 
devotion.  Then  lassos  were  thrown  over  their  necks,  and  after 
a  long  process  of  choking  and  hauling  they  were  sufficiently 
exhausted  to  allow  themselves  to  be  led  out  and  tied  to  a  long 
picket  rope  stretched  across  stakes  some  four  feet  high.  They 
did  not  at  all  relish  the  feeling  of  the  rope  about  their  necks, 
and  such  capers  as  they  cut  up,  turning  summersets  4  both  be- 
fore and  behind,'  throwing  themselves  upon  the  ground,  and 
jumping  and  doubling  themselves  with  all  the  agility  of  the  cat. 
At  length  nearly  all  of  the  200  were  tied  to  the  picket  rope, 
and,  after  a  sufficiently  elapsed  interval  to  regain  their  minds 
and  strength,  the  same  antics  were  gone  through  with  again. 
Some  leaped  over  the  ropes,  some  tangled  themselves  with  their 
lariats.  Breaking  them  to  the  saddle  proved  highly  interesting. 
After  breakfast  each  morning  we  all  went  out  and  saddled  our 
own  animals,  and  spent  an  hour  or  two  in  a  pleasant  drive. 
Behold  some  fifteen  or  twenty  of  us  mounted  ;  off  we  start,  and 
in  a  moment  all  sorts  of  scenes  are  being  enacted.  Here  one  is 
thrown  headforemost;  here  one  is  borne  through  the  air  with 
lightning  speed,  fortunate  if  not  brushed  off  beneath  the  scrubby 
oaks.  Some  of  the  mules  lie  down,  and  some  persist  in  running 
among  a  number  of  picketed  animals,  and  tangling  themselves 
in  the  lariats ;  the  riders  —  however  good  —  are  sent  '  bound- 
ing through  the  air.'  I  had  a  truly  tough  job  in  breaking  my 
animal.  Every  time  I  mounted  her  I  was  sure  to  be  thrown, 
and  it  was  not  until  some  weeks'  march  that  she  became  well 
trained,  but  afterwards  there  was  not  a  better-broken  mule  in 
the  train.  Many  were  badly  beaten  and  bruised  in  the  break- 
ing operation,  and  certainly  a  whole  month's  delay  in  our  arrival 
at  Fort  Union  was  the  result  of  the  selection  of  these  young, 
unbroken  animals  by  the  St.  Louis  quartermaster." 


306  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

The  next  few  days  the  rains  were  almost  incessant; 
but,  says  the  governor,  June  1 :  — 

"  Although  it  rained  heavily  all  day,  every  one  in  camp  was 
engaged  in  breaking  mules,  causing  many  an  amusing  scene. 
Several  of  the  party  were  thrown  repeatedly,  but  the  determi- 
nation they  evince  must  overcome  all  obstacles;  and  I  feel 
not  only  pleased  to  see  their  spirit,  but  to  congratulate  myself 
and  them  that  no  accident  has  occurred  worthy  of  mention. 
Much  hilarity  was  produced  by  the  efforts  of  different  persons, 
and  each  fall  occasioned  a  laugh.  Thus  what  I  had  seriously 
expected  to  prove  a  great  difficulty  was,  in  the  midst  of  heavy 
rains  and  gloomy  weather,  a  source  of  mirthful  enjoyment.,, 

The  main  party  here  organized,  including  a  few  mem- 
bers who  joined  soon  after  starting,  consisted  of  Governor 
Isaac  I.  Stevens ;  Lieutenant  Cuvier  Grover,  4th  artillery ; 
Lieutenant  Beekman  Du  Barry,  3d  artillery ;  detachment 
of  four  sappers ;  detachment  of  twenty  men,  1st  dra- 
goons; Fred.  W.  Lander,  A.  W.  Tinkham,  civil  engineers; 
Dr.  George  Suckley,  surgeon  and  naturalist;  Isaac  F. 
Osgood,  disbursing  agent;  J.  M.  Stanley,  artist;  John 
Lambert,  topographer ;  George  W.  Stevens,  secretary  and 
astronomer ;  James  Doty,  A.  Remenyi,  astronomical  and 
magnetic  observations ;  Joseph  F.  Moffett,  meteorolo- 
gist ;  T.  S.  Everett,  quartermaster  and  commissary  clerk ; 
Elwood  Evans,  Thomas  Adams,  F.  H.  Burr,  Max  Strobel, 

A.  Jekelfaluzy,  B.  F.  Kendall, Evelyn,  aides ;  C.  P. 

Higgins,  wagon-master ;  William  Simpson,  pack-master ; 
Pierre  Boutineau,  Le  Frambois,  Belland,  Henry  Bou- 
lieau,  Paul  Boulieau,  guides ;  Menoc,  hunter ;  and  sixty 
teamsters,  packers,  and  voyageurs,  numbering  altogether 
one  hundred  and  eleven  members.  Captain  Gardiner  was 
relieved  from  duty  in  consequence  of  illness,  and  did  not 
accompany  the  expedition. 

The  pay  was  certainly  moderate :  $125  for  Mr.  Stanley, 
the  artist ;  $100  to  the  civil  engineers,  Lander  and  Tink- 
ham ;  and  $25  to  each  aide,  per  month. 


THE  PARTY  307 

The  subsidiary  party,  ascending  the  Missouri  to  Fort 
Union,  where  it  was  to  join  the  main  party,  consisted  of 
Lieutenant  A.  J.  Donelson,  engineer  corps ;  Lieutenant 
John  Mullan,  1st  artillery  ;  six  sappers  ;  William  M.  Gra- 
ham, astronomer  ;  Dr.  John  Evans,  geologist ;  Alexander 
Culbertson,  special  Indian  agent. 

The  other  subsidiary  party,  which  met  the  main  party 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  consisted  of  Lieutenant  Rufus 
Saxton,  4th  artillery ;  Lieutenant  Robert  Macf eely,  4th 
infantry ;  Lieutenant  Richard  Arnold,  3d  artillery ;  Mr. 
D.  L.  Arnold  ;  Mr.  D.  S.  Hoyt ;  detachment  of  eighteen 
soldiers  j  twenty-nine  packers,  herders,  etc.,  —  in  all,  fifty- 
two. 

The  western  party  consisted  of  Lieutenant  George  B. 
McClellan  ;  Lieutenant  Johnson  K.  Duncan,  3d  artillery, 
astronomer,  etc. ;  Lieutenant  Henry  C.  Hodges,  4th 
infantry,  quartermaster  and  commissary ;  Lieutenant 
Sylvester  Mowry,  3d  artillery,  meteorologist ;  George 
Gibbs,  geologist  and  ethnologist ;  J.  F.  Minter,  civil 
engineer ;  Dr.  J.  C.  Cooper,  surgeon  and  naturalist ;  Mr. 
Lewis,  interpreter ;  detachment  of  twenty-eight  soldiers  ; 
thirty  civil  employees,  —  in  all,  sixty-six  in  number. 

The  entire  force  under  Governor  Stevens's  command 
for  the  exploration  comprised  eleven  officers  and  seventy- 
six  enlisted  men  of  the  army,  thirty-three  members  of  the 
scientific  corps,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  civilian  em- 
ployees, teamsters,  packers,  guides,  herders,  voyageurs, 
etc.,  —  altogether,  some  two  hundred  and  forty. 

Governor  Stevens's  general  plan  was,  while  surveying 
a  continuous  compass  and  odometer  line  with  the  princi- 
pal train,  to  keep  detached  parties  far  out  on  the  sides  of 
the  route,  examining  the  topography  of  the  country,  and 
gathering  all  possible  information  concerning  it,  and  thus 
to  embrace  the  widest  possible  field  in  the  exploration. 
The  following  pages  will  give  simply  the  governor's  per- 


308  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

sonal  experiences  on  the  expedition,  and  largely  in  his 
own  language,  referring  the  reader  to  his  reports,  espe- 
cially the  final  report  in  vol.  xii.,  for  the  details  of  this 
most  interesting  exploration. 

"  As  rapidly  as  the  breaking-in  of  the  mules  and  heavy  rains 
for  half  the  time  allowed,  the  expedition  moved  seventy  miles 
up  the  Mississippi  in  detachments,  crossed  to  the  west  bank, 
and  on  June  10  were  again  assembled  on  the  Sauk  River,  two 
miles  above  its  mouth,  in  Camp  Davis,  so  named  in  honor  of 
the  Secretary  of  War.  In  this  first  movement  of  the  expedition 
on  the  31st,  Lander  was  sent  ahead  to  explore,  and  Tinkham  to 
run  the  survey  line.  Doty  on  June  3,  and  Simpson  on  4th, 
took  the  route  with  small  trains,  with  such  animals  as  were  suffi- 
ciently broken  in  to  be  worked,  and  on  the  6th  Camp  Pierce 
was  broken  up,  and  the  remainder  of  the  force  followed  in  three 
parties,  Grover  with  the  scientific  men  and  instruments  by 
steamboat,  Du  Barry  with  Stanley,  Dr.  Suckley  and  sixteen 
dragoons,  and  Everett  with  the  train,  both  these  by  land  up  the 
east  bank  of  the  river.  Thus,  despite  the  mules  and  the  weather, 
the  least  possible  time  was  lost  in  starting  afield,  and  the  young 
subordinates  were  being  taught  to  command  and  operate  de- 
tachments, which  the  governor  regarded  as  of  great  importance, 
4  in  order  to  infuse  hope  into  the  whole  party,  and  avail  myself 
of  the  present  high  spirit  of  the  camp.'  " 

Having  seen  the  several  parties  started  off,  and  the 
camp  broken  up,  the  governor  continues  :  — 

I  remained  at  St.  Anthony  until  noon  of  June  7  to  secure 
the  services  of  several  voyageurs,  and  particularly  of  the  guide 
Pierre  Boutineau  and  the  hunter  Menoc,  in  which  I  was  suc- 
cessful, and  starting  about  noon,  and  taking  a  rapid  convey- 
ance, I  pushed  forward  the  same  day  forty  miles,  overtaking  at 
Rum  River  Lieutenant  Du  Barry,  and,  some  miles  beyond,  both 
Doty  and  Simpson,  and  reaching  Sauk  Rapids,  a  distance  of 
thirty  miles  farther,  by  eleven  A.  M.,  found  Mr.  Tinkham  ac- 
tively engaged  in  the  survey  of  that  portion  of  the  river.  The 
crossing  at  St.  Anthony  is  by  a  rope  ferry,  its  motive  power 
being  the  action  of  the  current,  having  a  short  rope  at  the  bow 


THE  START  309 

and  a  longer  or  slack  rope  astern.  On  the  west  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  about  three  miles  above  Rum  River,  there  was  a 
large  encampment  of  Winnebago  Indians,  consisting  of  about 
one  hundred  lodges.  These  are  constructed  of  oak  bark,  fas- 
tened by  strips  of  buckskin  over  arched  poles,  resembling  in 
shape  the  cover  of  a  wagon  ;  they  are  about  eight  feet  high,  and 
from  ten  to  thirty  feet  long,  according  to  the  number  of  fami- 
lies to  be  accommodated.  The  chief's  lodge  in  the  centre  is 
much  larger,  and  distinguished  by  the  flags  upon  it,  two  British 
and  two  American  colors.  The  shores  are  lined  with  canoes, 
and  the  village  extends  an  eighth  of  a  mile  along  the  river. 
The  country,  for  the  first  seven  miles  after  leaving  camp  and 
striking  the  St.  Anthony  road,  is  a  wet  prairie.  After  leaving 
St.  Anthony  the  country  appears  to  rise  towards  the  north  ;  the 
road  lies  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  along  the  pla- 
teau, which  is  generally  timbered  with  the  smaller  varieties  of 
oak,  in  some  places  forming  beautiful  groves.  On  the  road, 
and  at  Sauk  Rapids,  several  additional  men  were  engaged, 
among  them  some  Canadian  voyageurs.  These  men,  being 
sometimes  half-breeds,  speak  a  jargon  of  patois  French,  Chip- 
pewa, and  other  Indian  dialects.  They  are  a  hardy,  willing, 
enduring  class,  and  used  to  encounter  all  sorts  of  difficulties  in 
their  journey  between  different  posts  of  the  fur  companies.  They 
must  be  treated  with  kindness  and  a  certain  degree  of  famil- 
iarity, and,  their  confidence  and  affections  being  secured,  they 
are  the  most  obedient  and  hard-working  fellows  in  the  world. 
This  morning  I  learned  that  Lieutenant  Grover  and  his  steam- 
boat party  had  landed  late  last  evening  about  five  miles  below 
Sauk  River,  and  had  there  encamped.  In  the  afternoon,  ac- 
companied by  Boutineau,  I  crossed  the  Mississippi  to  find  him, 
and  went  three  miles  in  a  drenching  rain  without  reaching  his 
position. 

I  dispatched  Henry  Boulieau  in  search  of  Lander,  and  he 
returned  with  the  information  that  Lander  was  about  eighteen 
miles  ahead  at  Cold  Spring,  and  that  he  had  made  there  a  good 
crossing  for  wagons. 

June  9.  I  went  to  Mr.  Lander's  camp,  and  examined  the 
crossing,  which  I  find  to  be  practicable,  and  the  work  well 
done. 


310  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

June  10.  I  returned  to  Lieutenant  Grover's  camp,  which 
was  beautifully  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Osakis  or 
Sauk  River,  about  two  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  grass  was 
indifferent  and  backward,  but,  with  half  rations  of  oats,  abun- 
dant for  the  animals ;  water  excellent.  In  honor  of  the  Secre- 
tary of  War,  we  named  it  Camp  Davis.  Lieutenant  Du  Barry 
arrived  this  afternoon  with  his  party,  as  did  the  small  trains  of 
Doty  and  Simpson.  A  very  severe  thunderstorm,  with  heavy 
rain  for  about  five  hours,  occurred  at  night,  amounting  in  the 
rain-gauge  to  6.1  inches. 

My  acquaintance  with  the  voyageurs,  thus  far,  has  impressed 
me  favorably.  They  are  thorough  woodsmen,  and  just  the  men 
for  prairie  life  also,  going  into  the  water  as  pleasantly  as  a 
spaniel,  and  remaining  there  as  long  as  needed;  stout,  able- 
bodied,  and  willing  to  put  their  shoulders  to  the  wheel  when- 
ever necessary  ;  no  slough  or  bog  deters  them. 

Camp  Davis,  two  miles  west  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
June  10,  1853. 
My  dearest  Wife,  —  We  are  getting  on  finely.  Camp 
Pierce  was  broken  up  on  Monday,  and  in  five  days  we  have 
gone  up  the  river  seventy  miles,  and  the  bulk  of  the  party  is 
now  west  of  the  Mississippi.  Yesterday  I  rode  forward  twenty- 
six  miles  to  the  crossing  of  the  Sauk  Kiver  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  the  advance  of  the  civil  engineer  party.  I  had 
previously  traveled  rapidly  from  St.  Anthony  to  Sauk  Rapids 
in  a  carriage,  passing  all  the  parties  on  the  road.  It  was  a 
beautiful  ride  all  the  way,  and  I  had  a  most  interesting  com- 
panion in  Pierre  Boutineau,  the  great  guide  and  voyageur  of 
Minnesota.  He  is  famous  as  a  buffalo-hunter,  is  a  Chippewa 
half-breed,  and  surpasses  all  of  his  class  in  truthfulness  and 
great  intelligence.  Not  only  is  he  experienced  in  all  the  vicis- 
situdes of  travel  and  frontier  life,  being  the  hero  of  many  inter- 
esting events,  but  he  has  the  broadness  of  view  of  an  engineer, 
and  I  am  confident  he  will  be  of  the  greatest  service  to  us  in 
finding  our  way.  At  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  where  he  resides, 
he  is  greatly  esteemed,  and  is  known  throughout  the  Territory. 
I  breakfasted  with  him  Monday  morning,  and  was  delighted 
with  the  affection  and  respect  with  which  he  inspired  his  whole 
household.    There  was  his  old  Indian  mother ;  his  four  children 


CAMP  REGULATIONS  311 

by  his  first  wife,  a  half-breed ;  his  second  wife  and  babe ;  his 
sister ;  his  brother  and  wife ;  and  the  wife  of  an  absent  brother. 
We  all  sat  down  to  a  breakfast  of  two  roasted  sucking-pigs, 
eggs,  beefsteak,  etc.  He  is  a  natural  gentleman,  and  in  his 
family  I  saw  exhibited  the  most  refined  and  courteous  man- 
ners. 

He  drove  a  pair  of  very  spirited  horses,  and  on  the  road, 
seeing  some  plover,  he  called  them  to  him  and  shot  one.  He 
understands,  as  Mr.  Sibley  in  Washington  told  me,  everything 
from  shooting  a  bird  or  paddling  a  canoe  to  hunting  buffalo, 
and  conducting  a  large  party  through  a  long  extent  of  difficult 
country.  I  have  also  secured  Menoc,  the  best  hunter  of  the 
Territory.  He  joins  the  party  to-morrow,  and  will  in  ten  days 
be  able  to  supply  us  with  deer  and  elk. 

June  12.  Messrs.  Osgood  and  Kendall  reached  camp  this 
morning  with  the  barometers  and  india-rubber  boats.  At  St. 
Louis  I  was  telegraphed  that  many  of  the  barometers  had  been 
broken,  and  they  could  not  be  supplied  short  of  New  York. 
They  were  absolutely  indispensable.  I  sent  Mr.  Kendall  there 
immediately,  and  in  thirty  days  the  boats  and  instruments  were 
made  and  brought  to  my  camp,  eighty  miles  on  our  way.  Mr. 
Everett  also  arrived  about  noon  to-day.  I  regretted  to  observe 
that  many  of  his  animals  were  in  very  bad  condition.  Of  our 
whole  number  some  forty  were  disabled,  and  eight  or  ten  so 
much  so  as  to  give  very  little  hope  that  they  could  do  any  further 
service.  I  refused,  however,  to  sell  even  these  to  the  many 
applicants  who  expressed  a  willingness  to  take  them  off  our 
hands  below  the  cost  of  purchase.  Assembling  both  officers 
and  men  to-day,  I  caused  to  be  read  the  camp  regulations,  which 
I  had  prepared  for  the  government  of  the  party,  and  made  a 
short  address,  in  which  I  informed  them  that  every  man  would 
be  expected  to  look  to  the  safety  of  his  comrades  ;  that  all  alike, 
whether  soldier  or  civilian,  would  be  expected  to  stand  guard, 
and  in  case  of  difficulties  to  meet  them  promptly.  I  exagger- 
ated the  difficulties  which  lay  before  us,  and  represented  that 
the  country  through  which  they  would  pass  was  intersected  by 
bogs,  marshes,  and  deep  morasses ;  that  rivers  were  to  be  forded 
and  bridged,  mountains  and  valleys  to  be  crossed ;  that  the  first 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  of  the  journey  was  reported  to  be 


312  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

through  a  continuous  marsh,  barely  practicable,  where  every 
man  would  have  to  go  through  mud  and  water  and  apply  his 
shoulders  to  the  wheel ;  that  in  ten  days  we  would  reach  the 
Indian  country,  where  heavy  guard  duty  would  have  to  be  per- 
formed to  protect  property  and  preserve  lives ;  that  still  farther 
on  we  would  probably  be  compelled  to  force  our  way  through 
the  country  of  the  Blackfoot  Indians,  a  tribe  proverbially  treach- 
erous and  warlike,  that  then  the  snows  of  the  mountains  would 
have  to  be  overcome,  and  that  every  man  would  be  expected  to 
follow  wherever  he  might  be  led ;  that  no  one  would  be  sacri- 
ficed, nor  would  any  one  be  subjected  to  any  risk  which  I  would 
not  freely  incur ;  and  that  whoever  was  not  willing  to  cooperate 
with  us  had  better  at  once  retire.  After  these  remarks  the 
camp  regulations  were  read  by  Mr.  Kendall,  and  my  views  were 
cordially  approved.  I  dispatched  Lieutenant  G rover  with  a 
picked  party  of  fifteen  men,  with  instructions  to  reconnoitre  the 
country  north,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  White  Bear  Lake. 

June  13.  Continuing  the  project  of  sending  off  the  train  in 
detached  parties,  and  thus  gradually  breaking  up  the  camp, 
much  of  the  day  was  spent  in  preparing  a  party  to  be  placed  in 
charge  of  Dr.  Suckley.  All  was  effected  by  four  p.  M.,  when  his 
party,  consisting  of  Belland  the  guide,  Menoc  the  hunter,  a 
cook,  Corporal  Coster,  and  two  dragoons,  with  two  led  horses 
and  two  led  mules,  two  men  in  charge  of  them,  Belland's  rid- 
ing horse,  and  a  Pembina  cart  in  charge  of  Henry  Boulieau, 
started  from  camp.  He  was  instructed  to  follow  Lieutenant 
Grover's  trail  in  easy  marches,  looking  carefully  to  his  animals, 
and  paying  particular  attention  to  the  collections  in  natural 
history. 

To-day  I  issued  an  order  creating  assimilated  rank  in  the 
expedition,  by  which  certain  gentlemen  of  the  party  were  ap- 
pointed to  the  grade  of  lieutenant,  and  others  to  the  grade 
of  non-commissioned  officer,  for  convenience  in  detailing  guard. 
By  this  course  the  relative  position  of  each  man  was  fixed ;  and, 
whether  in  the  main  or  detached  parties,  it  was  known  whose 
duty  it  was  to  give  orders  in  case  of  necessity.  Military  organi- 
zation is  in  some  degree  indispensable,  and  the  idea  of  an  escort 
has  been  entirely  abandoned.  All  are  soldiers  in  the  perform- 
ance of  guard  duty,  and  the  soldiers  accompanying  us  are  on 


MARCHING  ORDERS  313 

fatigue  duty,  and  not  merely  to  escort  us  by  day  and  to  stand 
guard  at  night.  Several  of  the  Pembina  carts  purchased  by 
Dr.  Borup  arrived  in  camp  to-day.  They  are  made  entirely  of 
wood,  having  no  iron  at  all  about  them,  very  roughly  con- 
structed, and  the  wheels  usually  wrapped  with  rawhide  or 
buffalo  skin  in  place  of  an  iron  tire,  to  prevent  their  cutting 
through  the  marshy  ground  so  extensive  between  here  and  Pem- 
bina. They  are  drawn  by  horses,  oxen,  or  mules,  one  person 
usually  driving  from  two  to  six  carts,  and  when  loaded  they  will 
carry  from  six  to  eight  hundred  pounds.  They  look  as  if  made 
for  only  one  trip,  and  the  creaking  of  the  wheels  on  the  wooden 
axle  does  not  give  the  idea  of  their  standing  much  service. 
Their  first  appearance,  to  those  of  the  party  unaccustomed  to 
the  sight,  with  the  oxen  harnessed  in  them,  caused  much  merri- 
ment, and  as  they  moved  over  the  prairie,  the  singular  noise 
produced  by  their  wheels  assured  us  that,  with  such  an  accom- 
paniment, no  need  existed  for  any  musical  instrument  or  players, 
for  these  discoursed  most  sweetly. 

"  There  is  no  such  thing  as  an  escort  to  this  expedition. 
Each  man  is  escorted  by  every  other  man/'  begins  this 
order.  It  required  each  man  habitually  to  go  armed ; 
arms  to  be  inspected  morning  and  evening ;  no  march  on 
Sundays,  on  which  days  thorough  inspection  of  persons 
and  things  to  be  made,  and  each  man  to  bathe  his  whole 
person ;  each  member  of  the  scientific  corps  to  take  care 
of  his  own  horse,  and  to  take  from  and  place  in  the  wag- 
ons his  own  personal  baggage ;  no  firing  on  the  march ; 
personal  baggage  reduced  to  twenty-five  pounds  per  man. 
By  the  strict  enforcement  of  these  stringent  but  salutary 
regulations,  and  the  extreme  care  with  which  all  were  re- 
quired to  treat  the  animals,  Governor  Stevens  conducted 
the  entire  expedition  without  the  loss  of  a  man,  save  one 
who  shot  himself  by  accident,  and  the  animals  actually 
improved  on  the  march. 

June  14.  Spent  the  day  in  making  the  necessary  arrange- 
ments to  push  forward  the  whole  camp,  to  be  organized  for  the 


314  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

present  in  detached  parties  under  separate  heads,  and  all  under 
my  general  direction.  Lieutenant  Du  Barry  was  placed  in  gen- 
eral charge  of  the  meteorological  observations  and  of  the  train,  as 
executive  officer.  Everything  now  presents  a  favorable  aspect, 
and  all  will  be  ready  to  move  off  to-morrow  morning.  Procured 
several  more  Pembina  carts.  Engaged  to-day  Paul  Boulieau, 
a  half-breed  Chippewa  of  collegiate  education,  who  has  filled  a 
seat  in  the  territorial  legislature  with  credit,  and  also  been  long 
in  the  service  of  the  fur  company.  He  was  placed  in  charge  of 
the  Pembina  train,  so  called,  which,  consisting  at  first  of  five 
carts,  each  drawn  by  an  ox,  was  this  day  increased  by  a  very 
superior  wagon  team,  drawn  by  two  yoke  of  very  large  and  ser- 
viceable oxen.  It  may  here  be  observed  that  the  Pembina  train, 
managed  entirely  by  the  voyageurs,  invariably  moved  by  itself, 
crossed  all  the  streams  without  additional  assistance,  gave  us 
the  least  trouble  in  supervision,  and  was  altogether  the  most 
economical  and  effective  transportation  we  had.  A  pioneer 
wagon  containing  rations  for  the  advance  party  and  the  india- 
rubber  boats,  loaded  lightly  in  order  in  case  of  necessity  to  be 
pushed  rapidly  forward  to  the  advance  parties,  and  a  wagon  of 
Indian  goods,  were  with  the  train.  The  arrangements  thus 
made  left  me  free  to  be  either  with  the  advance  parties  or  with 
the  train,  or  to  make  personal  examinations  of  important  fea- 
tures of  the  country  off  the  lines  of  the  trail. 

Again  sending  on  detached  parties,  under  Lieutenant 
Grover,  Dr.  Suckley,  Lander,  and  Tinkham,  the  march  was 
resumed  to  Pike  Lake,  a  distance  of  eighty-one  miles. 
The  season  was  unusually  backward,  the  rains  frequent 
and  heavy,  and  great  labor  was  required  in  crossing  the 
swollen  streams,  —  some  by  bridging,  others  by  means  of 
the  india-rubber  floats  for  ferrying  over  the  goods  while 
the  animals  swam  across.  The  wagons,  bogged  in  the  miry 
ground,  had  to  be  frequently  unloaded  and  loaded  again ; 
but  many  soft  and  marshy  places  were  made  passable 
by  covering  the  road  deep  with  cut  grass,  for  which  pur- 
pose the  governor,  with  his  usual  foresight,  had  provided 
scythes.     The  country,  with  its  beautiful  prairies,  groves, 


MARCH  TO  PIKE  LAKE  315 

and  lakes,  and  many  streams  and  bogs  to  be  crossed,  and 
the  incidents  of  the  march  are  graphically  described  in 
Governor  Stevens's  report,  with  many  views  taken  along 
the  route.  The  following  extracts  will  show  the  char- 
acter of  the  country  and  the  difficulties  overcome  :  — 

June  16.  Three  miles  from  Camp  Davis  we  passed  through 
a  belt  of  woods  for  two  miles,  where  the  flies  were  excessively 
annoying,  persecuting  our  animals  so  that  it  was  hard  to  keep 
them  in  the  road,  as  they  constantly  attempted  to  rush  into  the 
bushes.  The  country  to  Cold  Spring  has  a  rich  alluvial  soil, 
with  scattered  groves  of  timber.  It  is  mostly  level  prairie, 
occasionally  broken  by  a  small  stream,  and  is  excellent  for 
agricultural  purposes.  Passing  through  Lieutenant  Du  Barry's 
camp,  I  went  on  to  Dr.  Suckley's,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Sauk. 
Sauk  River  at  our  ford  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
wide,  though,  owing  to  the  obliquity  of  the  banks  and  rapidity 
of  current,  the  ford  is  near  three  hundred  feet  wide  and  the 
water  five  feet  deep. 

June  17.  This  morning  I  started  with  Dr.  Suckley  and 
went  on  to  Lake  Henry,  nineteen  and  a  half  miles.  The  coun- 
try was  a  rolling  prairie,  interspersed  with  small  sloughs  filled 
by  the  recent  rains  ;  the  soil  is  rich  and  black,  grass  good,  and 
occasionally  gravelly  hillocks.  In  the  crossing  of  the  Sauk  by 
the  main  train,  the  india-rubber  boats  were  for  the  first  time 
used.  The  larger  one  is  about  twelve  feet  long  and  four  wide, 
weighing  seventy-five  pounds,  the  other  about  one  fifth  smaller. 
A  rope  was  stretched  across  the  stream,  and  the  boats  ferried 
across  by  means  of  a  ring  attached  to  their  bows,  and  sliding 
along  the  rope.  They  succeeded  admirably,  and  a  birch  canoe, 
managed  by  one  of  the  voyageurs,  was  also  used  in  crossing. 
Some  of  the  men  were  in  the  water  for  hours,  but  worked  faith- 
fully and  efficiently.  Lieutenant  Du  Barry  effected  the  cross- 
ing in  one  day,  and  encamped  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  six 
miles  from  Cold  Spring. 

June  18.  Left  camp  about  seven  o'clock,  and  in  about 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  crossed  a  bad  place,  requiring  some 
grass.  The  water  was  two  feet  deep,  and  the  bottom  miry. 
Our  road  lay  through  a  beautiful  prairie.     The  shores  of  Lake 


316  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Henry  are  heavily  wooded.  In  two  and  a  half  miles  farther 
we  found  two  very  wet  places,  one  hundred  yards  apart.  In 
two  miles  farther  we  came  to  a  long  marsh,  where  the  ground 
was  very  soft,  and  where  our  wagons  stalled.  Three  quarters 
of  a  mile  beyond  we  encountered  a  very  deep,  muddy  slough,  to 
cross  which  we  had  recourse  to  a  long  rope,  and  all  our  force 
pulled  on  it.  A  branch  of  Crow  River  is  then  reached  in  a 
mile,  or  a  little  more.  It  is  about  twelve  feet  wide  and  two 
deep ;  both  sides  are  overflown  marsh,  making  the  place  very 
difficult  to  cross.  To  avoid  breaking  bulk,  we  again  used  the 
long  rope,  and  attaching  three  pairs  of  mules  to  it,  all  our  men 
pulling  on  it  at  the  same  time,  we  got  the  wagon  through.  We 
arrived  about  noon  at  Crow  Wing  River,  nine  miles  from  camp. 
It  was  four  or  five  feet  deep  and  twenty  feet  wide,  and  at  this 
time  overflowing  its  usual  banks.  Broke  bulk  here,  the  men 
packing  our  stuff  across.  Passing  Crow  River,  we  find  a  con- 
tinuous grove  of  oak-trees  on  our  left,  and  in  five  miles  a  series 
of  small  lakes  on  our  right,  not  wooded  but  abounding  in  game. 
Arrived  at  camp  on  Lightning  Lake  about  half  past  eight  p.  M. 
Distance  traveled,  eighteen  miles  and  three  quarters.  The  fre- 
quent sloughs  and  bad  crossings  in  our  march  to-day  added 
much  to  the  labors  of  the  men  and  animals.  After  the  hard 
day's  march  we  enjoyed  our  supper  of  game,  cooked  in  hunter's 
style  on  sticks  before  the  fire,  although  it  was  midnight  before 
we  could  have  it  ready. 

June  19,  Sunday.  Lightning  Lake  is  a  very  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  so  called  from  the  fact  that  during  Captain 
Pope's  expedition,  while  encamped  here,  one  of  those  storms  so 
fearfully  violent  in  this  country  occurred,  during  which  one  of 
his  party  was  instantly  killed  by  a  stroke  of  lightning.  Its 
northern  shore  is  thickly  studded  with  timber,  and  the  southern 
side,  upon  which  we  are  encamped,  affords  an  ample  supply  for 
all  camping  purposes.  Pickerel,  pike,  and  bass  fill  the  lake, 
numbers  of  which  our  parties  caught ;  and  ducks,  geese,  swans, 
plover,  and  prairie  chicken  abound  in  the  vicinity.  The  day 
of  rest  was  enjoyed  by  the  whole  party ;  some  fishing,  washing 
and  mending  their  clothes,  others  trying  various  modes  of  cook- 
ing the  game  and  fish  which  abounded.  Evans  succeeded 
admirably  in  roasting  a  fish  in  the  ashes,  first  rolling  it  up  in 


MARCH  TO  PIKE  LAKE  317 

brown  paper  dampened,  which,  when  removed,  brought  off  the 
scales  with  it,  leaving  the  meat  clean  and  well  done.  Early 
after  dinner  Mr.  Osgood  arrived,  informing  me  that  Lieutenant 
Du  Barry,  misconstruing  my  instructions,  had  declined  to  allow 
him  to  bring  forward  the  two  wagons  which  I  had  ordered  for 
the  use  of  the  advanced  parties. 

June  20.  Started  at  3.30  a.  m.  to  go  back  to  the  main 
train,  which  I  met  five  miles  west  of  Lake  Henry.  Taking 
charge  of  the  train  myself,  I  directed  Boutineau  to  explore  in 
advance  for  the  most  practicable  route.  The  bad  crossing 
referred  to  in  the  narrative  of  the  18th  was,  by  great  exertion 
and  the  united  force  of  the  whole  party,  effected  without  acci- 
dent, and  the  whole  train  reached  Lightning  Lake  by  4.30  P.  M. 

Lieutenant  Du  Barry  appears  to  have  felt  affronted  at 
the  action  of  the  governor  in  taking  the  personal  charge 
of  the  train,  and  indeed  the  latter  was  apt  to  be  pretty 
severe  and  decided  if  anything  went  wrong.  It  will  be 
observed  how  summarily  he  weeded  out  and  sent  back 
inefficient  men :  — 

June  21.  In  compliance  with  his  own  request,  I  relieved 
Lieutenant  Du  Barry  from  duty  with  the  expedition,  and  ordered 
him  to  report  in  person  to  the  Adjutant-General  in  Washing- 
ton. He  was  desired  to  call  upon  the  Secretary  of  War  and 
acquaint  him  with  the  whole  history  of  the  expedition  up  to  this 
point ;  and,  to  enable  him  to  reach  the  settlements  with  some 
degree  of  comfort  and  expedition,  I  dispatched  Mr.  Kendall 
and  two  of  the  voyageurs  to  accompany  him  as  far  as  Long 
Prairie  on  his  return,  whence  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in 
his  procuring  transportation  to  Sauk  Rapids. 

Captain  Remenyi  and  his  assistant,  Mr.  Jekelfaluzy,  were 
discharged  to-day,  as  they  did  not  perform  their  duties  to  my 
satisfaction. 

All  these  matters  detained  us  until  4.30  p.  m.,  when  I 
pushed  forward  with  Dr.  Suckley's  and  the  scientific  parties. 
The  clouds  were  gathering  and  indicated  a  severe  gust.  We 
reached  a  beautiful  lake  about  three  miles  distant,  called  by  us 
Lake  Stanley,  in  honor  of  the  artist  of  the  expedition,  and  had 


318  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

just  time  to  get  into  camp  to  save  ourselves  from  a  very  severe 
storm,  which  continued  with  great  violence  till  near  seven  p.  M. 

June  22.  My  party,  leaving  Dr.  Suckley,  got  off  about  six 
A.  M.  We  arrived  at  White  Bear  Lake,  about  nine  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  morning's  camp,  at  10.15  A.  M.  Leaving 
Lightning  Lake  the  country  seems  to  change  its  character,  and 
is  no  longer  a  flat,  undiversified  surface,  with  occasionally  a 
gentle  undulation  scarcely  attracting  attention.  It  has  gradu- 
ally changed  to  a  heavy,  rolling  prairie,  which,  before  approach- 
ing White  Bear  Lake,  becomes  broken  up  into  hills,  valleys, 
and  basins  varying  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  in  depth.  Boul- 
ders and  stones,  from  the  size  of  pebbles  to  paving-stones,  are 
very  numerous.  Our  route  to-day  appears  to  be  gradually 
ascending  at  a  probable  rate  of  eight  or  ten  feet  per  mile. 
White  Bear  Lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  bordered  with 
timber,  about  fourteen  miles  long  and  two  wide,  with  high, 
swelling  banks,  running  back  a  mile  or  so,  and  rising  to  the 
height  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  As  the  animals 
looked  so  fresh,  and  the  day  was  cool  and  good  for  traveling, 
we  halted  only  for  a  rest.  About  five  miles  from  the  lake 
we  came  to  a  stream,  apparently  running  into  it.  Other  bad 
places  occurred ;  soft  bogs,  marshes,  and  brooks  impeded  our 
progress  so  much  that  we  did  not  get  into  camp  until  three  P.  M., 
making  nine  and  one  third  miles  from  our  halting-place,  and 
eighteen  and  three  fourths  for  our  day's  march.  Our  camp  was 
on  a  very  rapid  stream,  with  steep,  high  banks.  We  called  it 
Lambert  River,  in  honor  of  our  topographer,  who  received  a 
sad  overturn  as  he  crossed  it  with  Lieutenant  Grover's  com- 
mand. 

The  main  train  in  charge  of  Mr.  Osgood  moved  from  camp 
on  Lightning  Lake  at  seven  o'clock,  after  settling  a  difficulty  of 
a  very  serious  aspect  growing  out  of  a  strike  of  all  the  teamsters, 
in  consequence  of  a  discharge  by  him  of  six  of  their  number, 
according  to  my  directions,  because  their  services  were  not 
required.  They  threatened  to  shoot  the  first  driver  who  moved 
out  of  camp.  Mr.  Osgood  declared  that  he  would  drive  out 
each  wagon  himself.  Finally,  after  some  discussion,  the  dis- 
charged men  moved  off  cheerfully,  and  the  main  train  pushed 
forward  to  White  Bear  Lake. 


CAMP  MARCY  319 

June  23.  Our  first  labor  this  morning  was  to  cross  the 
stream  at  a  point  half  a  mile  from  our  camp,  from  which  we 
moved  about  six.  This  crosshig  delayed  our  little  party  some 
two  hours.  Grass  had  to  be  cut  and  placed  on  both  sides  of 
the  stream.  The  banks  were  steep  and  soft,  and  it  required 
the  presence  of  a  man  or  two  at  each  wheel  to  keep  the  wagons 
in  motion  and  prevent  their  being  stuck  in  the  mire.  The 
country  to-day  appears  admirably  adapted  to  grazing  purposes, 
and  the  bottoms,  of  frequent  occurrence,  are  of  a  very  rich 
character.  Marshes  and  little  streams,  bordered  by  soft  places, 
occur  frequently.  In  one  of  these  places,  fully  one  hundred 
feet  in  length,  one  of  our  wagons  got  mired,  making  it  neces- 
sary to  remove  part  of  its  load  to  get  it  through. 

About  ten  a.  m.  I  left  the  train  in  charge  of  Mr.  G.  W. 
Stevens,  and,  pushing  on,  reached  Lieutenant  Grover's  camp 
about  twelve.  The  train  arrived  at  half  past  one,  crossed  a 
marsh  and  a  small  stream,  and  encamped  opposite  the  camps 
of  Messrs.  Grover,  Lander,  and  Tinkham.  Lieutenant  Grover's 
camp  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  shores  of  Pike  Lake.  The 
main  train  and  Dr.  Suckley's  party  arrived  about  half  past 
eight,  and  the  whole  expedition  was  again  brought  together. 
This  I  consider  the  real  starting-point  of  the  expedition,  and 
named  our  camp  here  Camp  Marcy,  in  honor  of  the  Secretary 
of  State.  We  remained  here  a  day  in  order  to  give  the  ani- 
mals a  chance  to  rest.  They  appear  to  be  in  very  good  condi- 
tion, and  the  grazing  is  fine.  Keceived  of  the  various  scientific 
chiefs  reports  of  their  labors  to  this  point. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

PIKE  LAKE  TO  FORT  UNION 

From  Pike  Lake  the  expedition  pursued  a  general 
course  westerly  by  ten  degrees  northerly  in  order  to  clear 
the  great  northeastern  bend  of  the  Missouri,  and  reached 
Fort  Union  in  thirty-eight  days,  traversing  a  distance  of 
five  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  A  compass  and  odometer 
line  was  run  with  the  main  party.  Pursuing  his  system 
of  exploring  a  wide  scope  of  country  by  means  of  de- 
tached parties,  Governor  Stevens  dispatched  Lieutenant 
Grover  with  a  picked  party  to  survey  a  separate  route 
south  of  that  of  the  main  body  as  far  as  Fort  Union,  and 
kept  Lander,  Tinkham,  Dr.  Suckley,  Lambert,  Doty,  and 
Adams,  with  small  parties  of  the  voyageurs,  examining  the 
country  within  forty  miles  of  the  route  by  frequent  side 
trips.  The  main  train  crossed  the  Red  River  near  the 
town  of  Breckenridge,  the  James  River  some  distance 
north  of  Jamestown,  and  skirted  the  Mouse  River  near 
Minot,  on  the  Great  Northern  Railroad,  from  which  point 
to  Fort  Union,  and  for  hundreds  of  miles  beyond,  that 
railroad  follows  Governor  Stevens's  route.  It  is  char- 
acteristic of  the  governor  that  in  sending  officers  on  the 
detached  trips  he  always  furnished  them  the  best  men 
and  animals  of  the  party,  frequently  allowing  them  to 
select  them  themselves.  On  July  12  he  overstrained 
himself  in  his  exertions  to  prevent  a  herd  of  buffalo 
from  stampeding  the  train,  and  the  old  rupture,  which 
had  given  him  so  much  trouble  in  Mexico,  broke  out 
afresh,  and  obliged  him  to  ride  in  an  ambulance  for  many 


PIKE  LAKE  TO  FORT  UNION  321 

hundreds  of  miles.  But  his  spirit  and  energy  were  no- 
wise quelled  by  this  grievous  physical  disability.  The 
graphic  descriptions  of  the  country,  the  incidents  of  the 
march,  the  encounter  with  countless  herds  of  buffalo,  and 
the  meetings  with  the  Ked  River  hunters  and  Assiniboine 
Indians  are  given  in  the  final  report  with  a  fullness  of 
detail  which  cannot  be  attempted  here,  but  the  following 
extracts  will  give  a  fair  idea  of  this  stage  of  the  explora- 
tion :  — 

June  24.  I  directed  Lieutenant  Grover  to  select  a  party 
of  twenty  picked  men,  twenty-six  mules,  three  horses,  and 
twenty-five  days'  provisions,  including  an  ox,  with  which  to  go 
forward  on  the  Dead  Colt  Hillock  line.  In  thus  giving  to 
Lieutenant  Grover  his  own  selection  of  animals  and  men,  my 
purpose  was  to  make  him  in  the  highest  degree  effective  in 
the  means  at  his  disposal,  and  to  demonstrate  by  the  success  of 
his  undertaking  the  entire  feasibility  of  operating  in  detached 
parties.  Messrs.  Lander  and  Tinkham  moved  forward  this 
afternoon  to  Chippewa  River. 

On  counting  rations,  it  was  found  that  for  the  main  party 
there  was  a  supply  for  twenty  days,  while  it  might  take  forty- 
five  to  reach  Fort  Union.  But  with  the  eight  oxen  in  the 
carts,  and  the  known  abundance  of  game,  I  feared  no  scarcity. 
The  men  showed  some  anxiety,  and  talked  of  a  strike,  but,  see- 
ing the  confidence  of  the  officers,  abandoned  any  open  demon- 
stration. I  had  ordered  a  reducing  of  rations  whenever  the 
quantity  of  game  would  justify  it,  and  henceforward  I  gave  the 
most  particular  attention  to  it,  so  that,  although  we  did  not 
reach  the  Yellowstone  for  thirty-eight  days,  there  was  at  no 
time  a  scarcity  of  provisions. 

June  25.  To-day  the  expedition  may  be  considered  fairly 
under  way.  Lieutenant  Grover  started  at  7.30  A.  M.  The  main 
party,  under  my  own  direction,  moved  forward  at  about  the 
same  time.  In  ten  miles  reached  the  Chippewa  River.  The 
india-rubber  boats  did  good  service,  carrying  over  each  time 
more  than  half  a  wagon-load.  The  whole  train  was  all  well 
encamped  two  miles  further  on  at  a  fine  lake  by  sunset. 

June  26.    The  main  party  moved  to-day  to  the  camp  of  Mr. 


322  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Tinkham  of  last  night,  and  the  whole  command  was  over  the 
river  and  in  camp  by  six  o'clock.  As  we  were  now  approach- 
ing the  Indian  country,  I  systematized  all  the  arrangements  of 
camp  and  guards,  and  the  details  of  duty  on  the  march.  The 
dragoons  were  distributed  as  follows :  two  for  the  pack-train ; 
two  with  a  led  horse  each  for  reconnoitring  duty ;  two  to  strike 
and  pitch  tents ;  two  to  catch  fish  ;  two  with  the  howitzer ;  Ser- 
geant Lindner  and  seven  men  with  the  main  column.  The 
sergeant  was,  moreover,  charged  with  the  duty  of  laying  out  the 
encampment  under  my  direction.  For  the  care  of  the  camp,  an 
officer  of  the  guard,  who  also  served  as  officer  of  the  day,  two 
non-commissioned  officers,  and  six  privates  were  detailed. 

Cook-fires  to  be  made  at  two  A.  M. ;  the  cooks  and  teamsters 
called  at  three,  and  the  animals  to  be  put  in  good  grass  ;  reveille 
to  be  sounded  at  four,  and  all  the  officers  to  be  called  by  name ; 
the  whole  camp  to  breakfast  about  four,  and  the  teamsters 
immediately  to  commence  harnessing  up  ;  tents  struck  by  half 
past  four,  and  camp  in  motion  by  five ;  the  sentinels  instructed 
to  fire  upon  any  prowling  Indians. 

June  27.  Camp  roused  at  four  A.  M.  While  at  breakfast, 
Lieutenant  Moffett  gave  me  notice  that  we  had  but  four  minutes 
left  to  eat  in,  and,  as  we  failed  to  get  through,  he  had  the  tents 
struck  over  our  heads.  The  train  moved  at  five  o'clock.  About 
eight  miles  from  camp  passed  Elbow  Lake,  fourteen  miles 
reached  Rabbit  River,  followed  the  stream  to  where  it  empties 
into  Bell's  Lake,  and,  going  along  the  beach  through  water 
eight  inches  deep  with  a  pebbly  bottom,  we  found  a  good  cross- 
ing, though  a  ridge  has  to  be  ascended  before  getting  upon 
the  plain  where  our  camp  is  placed.  The  grass  is  most  excel- 
lent, and  the  animals,  accustomed  to  each  other,  are  visibly 
improving. 

Tuesday,  June  28.  At  half  past  ten  A.  M.  the  advance  had 
crossed  Rabbit  River,  fifteen  miles  from  camp,  and  halted  until 
the  arrival  of  the  main  train.  Leaving  the  train  to  rest,  the 
advance  started  at  two.  In  three  miles  met  Mr.  Lander,  whose 
camp  was  with  Mr.  Tinkham's,  and  went  into  camp  at  five  on 
the  Bois  de  Sioux,  and  were  joined  by  the  whole  party  at  nine 
o'clock,  after  a  march  of  twenty-seven  miles  over  a  country  that 
had  been  invariably  reported  the  very  worst  of  the  whole  route. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRY  323 

Our  animals,  though  somewhat  tired,  immediately  went  to  feed- 
ing. There  were  some  soft  places  between  the  Rabbit  River 
and  the  Bois  de  Sioux,  in  which  the  animals  were  mired  and 
wagons  stalled ;  but  we  were  agreeably  disappointed  in  having 
comparatively  a  very  comfortable  day's  journey. 

Numerous  large  catfish  were  caught  this  afternoon,  some 
weighing  from  twelve  to  twenty  pounds.  At  half  past  eleven 
p.  M.  we  sat  down  to  a  supper  of  ducks,  catfish,  and  coffee,  and 
all  the  men  were  in  fine  spirits.  The  Bois  de  Sioux  had  been 
a  great  point  to  reach,  —  the  end  of  bad  roads  and  the  com- 
mencement of  the  buffalo  country.  Here  we  may  take  a  gen- 
eral review  of  the  country  since  leaving  St.  Paul. 

Between  Camp  Pierce  and  Sauk  Rapids,  seventy-nine  miles, 
the  road  passes  through  beautiful  prairies  and  oak  openings, 
with  occasional  meadows,  wet  at  this  early  season,  and,  at  some 
distance  to  the  right,  groves  of  tamarack,  varying  the  landscape 
with  their  light  and  feathery  foliage. 

From  the  crossing  at  Sauk  Rapids  to  Lightning  Lake  most 
of  the  country  is  rolling  prairie,  with  the  wooded  banks  of 
Sauk  River  on  the  south,  and  numerous  small  ponds  and  lakes 
with  trees  on  their  banks,  abundant  and  excellent  pasture,  and 
swarms  of  water-fowl,  supplying  plenty  of  fresh  provisions. 

A  similar  delightful  country  continues  to  the  Bois  de  Sioux 
River,  with  some  decrease  in  the  amount  of  timber,  until  the 
banks  of  that  river  are  reached. 

After  leaving  Lightning  Lake  the  country  seems  to  change 
its  character;  no  longer  a  flat,  undiversified  surface,  or  with 
gentle  undulations  scarcely  attracting  notice,  it  has  gradually 
changed  to  a  heavy,  rolling  prairie,  and  at  White  Bear  Lake 
becomes  broken  up  into  hills,  valleys,  and  basins.  Boulders 
and  smaller  stones  are  numerous. 

This  whole  dividing  ridge,  then,  separating  the  waters  of 
the  Mississippi  from  those  of  the  Red  River,  which  flow  into 
Hudson  Bay,  is  not  the  lofty  range  of  mountains  which  might 
be  supposed  to  separate  the  sources  of  two  such  great  bodies  of 
water  flowing  in  opposite  directions  and  to  outlets  so  widely 
distant,  but  is  a  gently  undulating  and  exceedingly  rich  prairie 
country,  abundantly  wooded  and  watered,  having  a  width  of 
one  hundred  miles,  and  an  elevation  not  exceeding  six  hundred 


324  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

feet  above  the  river  and  about  sixteen  hundred  above  the  sea. 
There  is  a  very  slight  rise  in  the  general  level  in  going  west- 
ward, the  Bois  de  Sioux  being  at  the  crossing  only  thirty- 
one  feet  higher  than  the  Mississippi  at  Sauk  Rapids.  Undu- 
lating and  level  prairies,  skirted  by  woods  of  various  growth, 
and  clothed  everywhere  with  rich  verdure ;  numerous  and  rapid 
streams,  with  innumerable  small  but  limpid  lakes,  frequented 
by  multitudes  of  wild  fowl,  most  conspicuous  among  which 
appears  the  stately  swan,  —  these,  in  ever-recurring  succession, 
make  up  the  panorama  of  this  extensive  district,  which  may  be 
said  to  be  everywhere  fertile,  beautiful,  and  inviting. 

The  most  remarkable  features  of  this  region  are  the  in- 
tervals of  level  prairie,  especially  that  near  the  bend  of  the 
branches  of  Red  River,  where  the  horizon  is  as  unbroken  as 
that  of  a  calm  sea.  Nor  are  other  points  of  resemblance  want- 
ing :  the  long  grass,  which  in  such  places  is  unusually  rank, 
bending  gracefully  to  the  passing  breeze  as  it  sweeps  along  the 
plain,  gives  the  idea  of  waves  (as  indeed  they  are)  ;  and  the 
solitary  horseman  on  the  horizon  is  so  indistinctly  seen  as  to 
complete  the  picture  by  the  suggestion  of  a  sail,  raising  the 
first  feelings  of  novelty  to  a  character  of  wonder  and  delight. 
The  flowing  outlines  of  the  rolling  prairies  are  broken  only  by 
the  small  lakes  and  patches  of  timber,  which  relieve  them  of 
monotony  and  enhance  their  beauty ;  and  though  marshes  and 
sloughs  occur,  they  are  too  small  and  infrequent  to  affect  the 
generally  attractive  character  of  the  country.  The  elevation 
of  the  rolling  prairie  is  generally  so  uniform  that  even  the 
summits  between  streams  flowing  in  opposite  directions  exhibit 
no  peculiar  features  to  distinguish  them  from  the  ordinary 
valley  slopes. 

Wednesday,  June  29.  The  advance  parties  crossed  the 
river  before  seven  o'  clock,  but  the  train  was  not  started  till 
eleven,  so  as  to  give  the  animals  rest.  The  ford,  very  good  for 
a  small  train,  became  very  muddy  towards  the  last,  and  though 
we  unloaded  all  the  wagons  and  carried  the  loads  over  in  boats, 
the  wagons  and  animals  were  badly  stalled  at  the  edges  and  on 
the  soft  and  steep  banks  of  the  river.  The  country  from  the 
Bois  de  Sioux  to  the  Wild  Rice  River  is  a  broad,  level  prairie, 
covered  with  luxuriant   grass   eighteen  inches  high;   the  dis- 


SHEYENNE  RIVER  325 

tance  eleven  miles,  with  occasional  sloughs.  The  heat  to-day 
was  excessive,  and  the  mosquitoes  very  annoying  to  men  and 
animals.  At  four  o'clock,  profiting  by  our  experience  in  cross- 
ing the  Bois  de  Sioux,  I  sent  Mr.  Lander  with  a  select  force  of 
axemen  to  cut  timber  to  bridge  the  Wild  Eice.  The  train  came 
up  slowly,  the  last  wagons  not  reaching  camp  till  midnight. 

Thursday,  June  30.  Part  of  the  men  were  employed  in 
carefully  currying  and  washing  the  animals,  and  in  catching 
fish;  the  remainder  were  detailed  to  build  the  bridge,  which 
was  completed  by  one  p.  M.  It  was  made  of  heavy  logs,  filled 
in  with  cut  willow-brush  and  mown  grass.  Moved  at  two 
o'clock ;  in  three  miles  came  to  a  small  creek,  which  was  quite 
marshy,  and  caused  delay  to  cross.  Moving  a  mile  and  a 
half  farther  we  again  struck  the  same  stream,  and  encamped 
at  half  past  four  p.  M.  During  our  march  we  encountered  a 
very  severe  storm,  accompanied  with  thunder  and  lightning. 
Boutineau  brought  in  an  elk,  which  furnished  about  two  pounds 
of  excellent  fresh  meat  to  each  man,  and  was  much  enjoyed. 
Kendall  and  the  two  Boulieaus  overtook  us  to-day,  bringing 
supplies  and  five  Indian  ponies. 

July  1.  I  determined  to  push  forward  with  the  engineer 
party  to  the  Sheyenne,  and,  if  I  found  it  necessary,  have  it 
bridged.  Smooth  prairie  extended  all  the  way,  road  good,  and 
the  distance  twenty-six  and  a  half  miles.  A  very  severe  thun- 
derstorm occurred  this  morning,  lasting  an  hour,  and  wetting 
us  thoroughly.  At  eleven  A.  M.  we  met  the  train  of  the  Red 
River  traders,  and  visited  their  camp,  six  miles  distant.  We 
were  very  hospitably  received,  purchased  some  pemmican,  com- 
mon moccasins,  and  articles  of  dress  worked  with  porcupine 
quills.  Bought  also  some  carts  and  oxen,  being  very  deficient 
in  transportation. 

The  main  train  only  proceeded  thirteen  miles,  and  I  returned 
to  them  about  three  p.  m.,  accompanied  by  Kittson,  Father  Dela- 
cour,  Roulet,  and  Cavilaer.  Kittson  and  Roulet  were  members 
of  the  territorial  legislature  from  Pembina ;  Cavilaer,  the  col- 
lector of  customs  ;  and  Delacour  is  a  very  clever,  shrewd  priest. 
They  are  on  their  annual  trip  to  St.  Paul  with  robes,  skins, 
pemmican,  and  dried  meat  of  the  buffalo,  collected  by  trading 
with  the  half-breeds  of  the  Red  River  settlements.     We  found 


326  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

that  they  had  bridged  the  Sheyenne,  saving  us  considerable 
trouble  and  delay.  Their  company  proved  very  agreeable,  and 
we  were  glad  that  a  heavy  thunderstorm  coming  on  obliged 
them  to  be  our  guests  for  the  night. 

July  2.  Struck  camp  at  seven  o'clock  and  parted  with  our 
new  friends,  sending  back  with  them  Strobel  and  two  team- 
sters, who  proved  inefficient.  The  whole  train  crossed  the  Shey- 
enne bridge  safely  by  noon,  and  camped  on  the  other  side. 
"We  had  apprehended  that  possibly  the  heavy  rain  of  last  night 
would  swell  the  river  and  carry  away  the  bridge,  but  hurrying 
up  the  wagons,  we  made  the  crossing  just  before  the  water  had 
risen  sufficiently  to  flow  over  the  bridge.  I  called  this  camp 
McClelland,  intending  to  halt  here  over  Sunday  and  make  up 
dispatches  for  Washington.  I  sent  Lander  and  Tinkham  to 
reconnoitre  both  up  and  down  the  river. 

July  3,  Sunday.  Lander  came  back  from  his  reconnois- 
sance,  having  been  as  far  south  as  Dead  Colt  Hillock.  He 
met  with  a  singular  adventure,  which  afforded  us  a  great  deal  of 
amusement.  Riding  along  with  his  four  voyageurs,  whom  he 
used  to  call  his  "  men  of  iron,"  at  some  distance  ahead  they  saw 
a  skunk  moving  leisurely  through  the  grass,  with  tail  erect  and 
defying  their  approach.  Lander  leveled  his  glass  at  it,  and, 
satisfying  himself  that  it  was  an  Indian  watching  their  move- 
ments and  trying  to  hide  himself,  gave  the  order  for  his  gallant 
band  to  "charge."  They  did  charge,  and  at  the  same  time 
firing  their  revolvers,  the  poor  skunk  fell,  riddled  with  balls 
and  weltering  in  his  blood ;  when  coming  up,  they  discovered 
the  extent  of  their  bold  exploit.  Joking  in  camp  is  one  of  the 
pastimes  to  relieve  the  annoyances  of  the  march,  and  every 
little  thing  is  seized  upon  to  feed  the  disposition. 

Fourth  of  July.  The  train  started  at  six  A.  M.  I  remained 
behind  to  get  off  a  mail.  Started  about  ten  and  followed  the 
Red  River  trail  some  twelve  miles,  when  we  left  it  altogether. 
Crossed  Maple  River,  and  camped  on  its  banks.  About  dusk 
we  raised  the  American  flag,  made  of  red  and  white  shirts,  con- 
tributed by  the  party  and  sewed  together  by  Boulieau.  As  it 
went  up,  the  assembled  command  gave  it  three  hearty  cheers, 
and  then  indulged  in  some  refreshments  in  honor  of  the  day, 
ending  the  evening  with  songs  and  story-telling. 


SHEYENNE  RIVER  327 

July  5.  Traveled  twenty  miles  over  a  high,  firm,  and  almost 
level  prairie,  camping  on  a  small  branch  of  Maple  River  with- 
out any  wood  near  it.  The  pack-train  requiring  more  attention 
and  care  of  the  animals  than  has  been  given  by  the  man  in 
charge,  who  does  not  take  sufficient  pains  with  the  disabled 
animals,  I  to-day  directed  Mr.  Kendall  to  oversee  them  and 
have  them  properly  attended  to. 

July  6.  Went  twenty  miles  farther,  making  a  noon  halt  of 
two  hours,  when  Mr.  Tinkham  returned  from  a  long  and  rapid 
reconnoissance  ahead.  Prairie  more  rolling,  but  road  good.  A 
high  butte  to  the  left  of  our  course  enabled  me  to  get  a  fine 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Two  Indians  were  seen  by 
Boutineau,  who  was  out  after  buffalo,  which  he  did  not  find; 
but  abundance  of  ducks  continue  to  supply  the  camp  with  fresh 
meat. 

July  7.  About  8.30  we  struck  the  Sheyenne  six  miles  from 
camp,  and  rested  an  hour.  Keeping  the  Sheyenne  on  our  left, 
we  moved  forward  ten  miles  and  camped  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  river  on  the  banks  of  a  fine  lake.  To-day  Le 
Frambois  and  Menoc  killed  an  old  buffalo  bull,  and  also  brought 
in  some  dozen  geese.  Several  of  the  messes  supplied  themselves 
with  frogs,  which  have  been  most  abundant  on  our  march  for 
the  past  two  days.  The  whole  command  took  supper  off  of 
buffalo,  and  the  meat,  though  old  and  tough,  tasted  very  good, 
and  saved  us  an  ox  which  had  been  destined  for  the  slaughter. 
Several  antelopes  and  wolves  were  seen  to-day. 

July  8.  Started  this  morning  at  6.30,  and  arrived  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Sheyenne  River  after  a  march  of  fifteen  miles. 
Buttes  in  considerable  number  are  seen  ahead,  among  which 
the  Horse  -Butte  and  the  Butte  Micheau  are  plainly  visible. 
Mr.  Tinkham,  Paul,  and  Henry  were  out  again  to-day,  making 
a  reconnoissance  on  the  Sheyenne.  We  went  into  camp  about 
one  o'clock  on  the  east  and  south  side  of  the  Sheyenne,  and  a 
party  was  at  once  detailed  to  cut  wood  and  prepare  charcoal. 
The  magnetic  tent  was  put  up,  and  the  astronomical  and  me- 
teorological parties  went  immediately  to  work.  I  called  our 
camp  Camp  Guthrie,  in  honor  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury, 
and  determined  to  remain  here  all  day  to-morrow. 

Boutineau  and  Henry  Boulieau  went  out  this  afternoon,  and 


328  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

returned  with  the  choice  pieces  of  a  fine,  fat,  young  buffalo 
bull,  and  we  made  a  delightful  meal,  around  the  fire,  of  the 
ribs,  marrow-bones,  etc.,  cooked  hunter's  fashion.  Towards 
evening,  on  the  coteau  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  a  herd  of 
some  twenty  elks  made  their  appearance.  Numerous  wolves 
were  also  seen,  which,  during  the  night,  kept  up  a  constant 
howling.  We  planted  flags  on  high  hills  in  the  vicinity  as  sig- 
nals to  Lander,  who  may  follow  the  Sheyenne  River  to  find  our 
crossing-place. 

July  9.  An  accurate  return  was  made  of  the  provisions  on 
hand,  so  as  to  regulate  its  weekly  distribution.  Our  flour  is 
fast  diminishing,  and  the  issue  was  reduced  to  half  a  pound  per 
day  to  each  man.  This  state  of  affairs  caused  considerable 
grumbling  in  camp.  We  are  fast  approaching  the  buffalo 
country,  and  then  shall  be  expected  to  do  with  much  less. 
About  2.30  P.  M.  the  main  train  under  Mr.  Osgood  crossed  the 
river,  and  moved  forward  to  a  good  camping-place.  The  astro- 
nomical, magnetic,  and  meteorological  parties,  with  the  detail  of 
three  men  attending  to  the  coal-pit,  and  Mr.  Evans  and  myself, 
remained  at  Camp  Guthrie,  intending  to  join  them  before  they 
moved  in  the  morning. 

July  10.  After  partaking  of  a  cup  of  coffee  at  three  o'clock, 
our  little  train,  consisting  of  an  ambulance  and  -  spring  wagon 
with  a  cart  loaded  with  charcoal,  had  crossed  the  Sheyenne  by 
sunrise.  About  seven  o'clock  we  reached  the  main  train,  en- 
camped some  seven  miles  off.  The  train  was  preparing  to 
move,  and  soon  after  we  came  up  it  started ;  at  eight  o'clock 
we  followed  and  passed  them.  About  five  miles  from  camp  we 
ascended  to  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  and  for  a  great  distance 
ahead  every  square  mile  seemed  to  have  a  herd  of  buffalo  on  it. 
Their  number  was  variously  estimated  by  the  members  of  the 
party,  some  as  high  as  half  a  million.  I  do  not  think  it  is  any 
exaggeration  to  set  it  down  at  200,000.  I  had  heard  of  the 
myriads  of  these  animals  inhabiting  these  plains,  but  I  could 
not  realize  the  truth  of  these  accounts  till  to-day,  when  they 
surpassed  anything  I  could  have  imagined  from  the  accounts 
which  I  had  received. 

The  timber  bordering  on  Lake  Jessie  was  distinctly  visible 
ahead,  and  between  us  and  it  were  countless  herds  of  buffalo, 


BUFFALO  IN  COUNTLESS  HERDS  329 

through  which  we  were  compelled  to  pass.  The  train  moved 
on  till  eleven  o'clock,  when  we  all  halted,  drew  up  in  line,  and 
picketed  the  loose  animals.  Six  of  the  hunters,  Boutineau, 
Menoc,  Le  Frambois,  the  two  Boulieaus,  and  Rummell,  were 
mounted  upon  the  best  horses  in  the  command,  some  of  which 
were  specially  reserved,  and  rode  off  in  fine  style,  keeping  to- 
gether till  ready  to  dash  in  among  the  herd.  The  immense  sea 
of  flesh  remained  quiet  until  their  approach,  and  then,  separat- 
ing, they  rode  in  among  them,  selected  the  fat  cows,  and,  riding 
around  until  the  proper  time  to  do  execution,  the  quick  succes- 
sion of  shots  announced  the  fact  that  our  supplies  of  meat  were 
fast  being  added  to.  In  less  than  an  hour  a  wagon  was  called 
into  requisition  to  collect  the  choice  pieces  of  nine  buffalo  cows. 
While  we  were  resting,  several  small  bands  came  within  firing 
distance  of  our  train.  One  or  two  dragoons  on  foot  gave  one 
a  chase,  but  the  buffalo,  of  course,  distanced  them.  The  most 
amusing  scene  was  the  dog  Zack,  of  the  dragoon  detachment,' 
dashing  into  a  whole  herd,  and  following  them  a  considerable 
distance.  Paul  Boulieau  and  Rummell  were  both  thrown  by 
their  horses  stumbling  in  one  of  the  numerous  holes  with  which 
the  prairie  abounds.  They  were  considerably,  though  not  seri- 
ously, hurt. 

We  arrived  at  Lake  Jessie  at  three  p.  m.,  the  bluff  shore  on 
which  we  encamped  being  sixty-four  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
lake.  The  water  of  Lake  Jessie  is  considerably  saline  in  its 
character ;  but  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  camp,  an 
excellent  spring  of  good,  fresh  water  was  found  by  Henry  Bou- 
lieau and  myself  while  out  on  a  reconnoitring  trip. 

Between  one  and  two  o'clock  at  night  a  herd  of  buffalo  ap- 
proached our  camp,  and  it  required  all  the  exertions  of  the 
guard,  assisted  by  many  of  the  men,  to  prevent  an  entire  stam- 
pede of  all  our  animals.  As  it  was,  some  got  loose,  though  none 
were  lost.  The  buffalo  were  followed  a  considerable  distance, 
and  some  ten  or  a  dozen  shots  were  fired  before  the  animals 
without  were  entirely  driven  off. 

July  11.  Having  proceeded  about  four  miles,  a  small  band  of 
buffalo  started  off  ahead  of  us.  Le  Frambois's  horse  and  four 
loose  mules  near  the  head  of  the  column  started  in  pursuit,  the 
horse  taking  the  lead.     Boutineau,  Le  Frambois,  Menoc,  Guy, 


330  ISAAC   INGALLS   STEVENS 

Lindner,  and  Paul  Boulineau,  all  well  mounted,  gave  chase  in 
hopes  of  recovering  them.  By  this  time  they  had  mixed  up  in 
the  herd,  and,  though  they  were  followed  some  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles,  all  efforts  to  secure  them  were  unavailing.  About  a  mile 
farther  we  encountered  a  very  severe  slough,  the  approach  to 
which  was  marked  by  a  very  great  curiosity  in  the  form  of  a 
buffalo  trail ;  at  least  100,000  must  have  crossed  here  by  the 
footprints  and  marks  visible,  and  I  determined  on  crossing  the 
slough  at  the  same  point  which  the  instinct  of  these  animals 
had  selected. 

July  12.  In  company  with  Tinkham  and  some  of  the  guides, 
I  started  from  camp  this  morning  at  five  o'clock,  designing  to 
be  in  advance  of  the  train  some  miles,  to  reconnoitre  and  pick 
out  a  good  road,  our  route  lying  over  high  hills. 

At  about  eight  o'clock  I  sent  off  Mr.  Tinkham,  accompanied 
by  the  two  Boulieaus,  well  mounted,  with  instructions  to  go 
southward,  determining  the  position  of  the  headwaters  of  Bald 
Hillock  Creek,  and  thus  connecting  his  work  with  Mr.  Lander's 
reconnoissance ;  thence  westward  in  a  line  nearly  parallel  with 
our  route  of  to-day,  making  a  reconnoissance  of  the  tributaries  of 
the  Jacques  River  (James),  leaving  it  to  his  discretion  whether 
to  join  our  camp  to-night  or  the  next  day.  By  this  we  would 
secure  the  reconnoissance  of  a  belt  of  country  forty  miles  wide, 
lying  between  the  Sheyenne  and  Jacques  (James)  rivers. 

About  eleven  miles  from  camp  we  crossed  a  deep  slough. 
About  a  mile  farther  on  we  crossed  a  fine  little  stream  which  I 
took  to  be  Beaver  Lodge  Creek.  Shortly  afterwards  Boutineau 
killed  a  fine  buffalo  cow,  not  twenty  feet  from  the  compass  line. 
The  dispatch  and  dexterity  with  which  these  men  cut  up  buffalo 
is  truly  astonishing.  Before  the  cart  came  up,  the  animal  was 
entirely  butchered,  and  had  only  to  be  thrown  into  the  cart. 
We  moved  forward  to-day  some  sixteen  miles,  and  camped  on 
the  side  of  a  small  lake.  We  had  scarcely  got  into  camp  before 
we  were  visited  by  a  very  severe  storm,  accompanied  by  thunder 
and  lightning.  Our  fires  were  put  out  by  the  rain,  and  during 
a  temporary  cessation  were  built  up  again  ;  but  it  soon  came  on 
with  increased  violence,  and  our  fires  were  again  washed  out. 
About  six  o'clock  two  of  Mr.  Lander's  party  who  left  us  on 
the  4th  arrived  in  camp,  announcing  that  Mr.  Lander  and  the 


THE  MISSING  PARTY  331 

rest  of  his  men  were  only  some  three  or  four  miles  behind,  with 
considerable  difficulty  bringing  in  the  horses,  which  were  giving 
out.1  I  dispatched  two  men  with  led  horses  to  meet  them,  and 
about  sundown  they  came  up.  We  found  great  difficulty  in 
keeping  up  our  fires  so  as  to  get  our  supper  cooked.  The  rain 
fell  in  torrents,  our  supply  of  wood  was  limited,  and  the  buffalo 
chips  were  so  wet  as  to  be  entirely  useless. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  day's  march  I  became  disabled  from 
my  exertions  in  endeavoring  to  keep  off  a  herd  of  buffalo  from 
the  train,  causing  an  old  wound  to  break  out,  which  compelled 
me  to  ride  many  hundred  miles  in  the  ambulance. 

July  13.  A  very  heavy  fog  this  morning  delayed  our  getting 
off  as  early  as  expected,  and  the  hope  of  Tinkham  and  his  small 
party  joining  us  made  me  less  hurried  about  starting.  Sixteen 
miles  from  camp  we  struck  James  River,  and  crossed  over  a 
good  ford,  from  which  point  I  sent  Mr.  Lander  down  the  river 
to  examine  it.  Noticing  that  the  river  ran  very  nearly  in  the 
course  of  our  compass,  we  followed  it,  and  again  crossing  it 
some  five  miles  above,  we  encamped.  I  had  a  large  amount  of 
rushes  collected,  with  a  view  of  building  as  large  a  camp-fire  as 
practicable,  in  order  to  give  notice  to  Tinkham  of  our  position, 
he  not  having  returned. 

July  14.  The  missing  party  not  having  arrived,  three  rounds 
of  the  howitzer  were  fired  at  sunrise,  and  we  started  later  than 
usual.  It  was  evident  that  the  whole  camp  was  in  a  great  state 
of  anxiety  for  the  safety  of  our  comrades.  Many  believed  that 
they  had  fallen  in  with  Indians,  and  were  deprived  of  their 
horses  and  their  lives.  Taking  everything  into  consideration,  I 
deemed  it  best  to  leave  a  party  at  this  point  so  equipped  as  to 
combine  great  energy  and  force  with  promptness  of  movement, 
so  as  to  be  able  to  overtake  the  main  train  without  difficulty. 
Accordingly  Mr.  Lander  was  left  in  charge  of  the  engineer 
wagon  and  the  wagon  belonging  to  the  mountain  howitzer, 
which  was  made  light  enough  to  be  moved  with  ease  forty  miles 
in  a  single  day.  The  howitzer  was  also  left  with  him  for  the 
purpose  of  making  signals.     Mr.  Doty,  with  three  voyageurs 

1  Lander,  it  seems,  was  an  inveterate  horse-killer,  and  almost  always 
returned  from  his  trips  with  his  animal  badly  used  up.  Buffalo  chips  are 
the  dried  dung  frequently  used  on  the  plains  as  a  substitute  for  fuel  where 
there  is  no  wood. 


332  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  three  men  to  manage  the  howitzer,  together  with  the  team- 
sters of  the  ammunition  wagon,  remained  with  Mr.  Lander,  hav- 
ing abundance  of  arms,  provisions,  animals,  etc.,  to  supply  any- 
emergency.  This  party  was  instructed  to  keep  up  fires,  to  fire 
three  rounds  with  the  howitzer  at  noon  and  at  sunset  should  the 
party  not  arrive,  and  to  communicate  with  us  if  any  casualty 
occurred. 

A  party  of  four  brave  and  thorough  woodsmen,  whose  know- 
ledge of  the  prairie  life  was  derived  from  experience  in  many  ex- 
peditions, and  who  well  understood  the  Indian  character,  were 
sent  out  on  the  route  traveled  yesterday,  and  were  directed, 
after  traveling  some  eight  or  ten  miles,  to  leave  the  road,  and, 
going  in  different  directions,  to  plant  signals  and  scour  the 
country.  I  felt  certain  that  Mr.  Tinkham  would  be  found  by 
these  men,  if  found  at  all. 

The  remainder  of  the  train  left  about  seven  o'clock,  pursuing 
the  same  course  as  yesterday.  The  first  ten  miles  was  over  a 
level  plateau.  We  encamped  about  4.30  o'clock  at  the  bank  of 
a  fine  lake,  having  made  to-day  a  distance  of  little  over  twenty 
miles.  The  mosquitoes  were  exceedingly  annoying,  flying 
against  the  sides  of  the  tents  with  a  noise  like  the  pattering  of 
rain,  while  the  inside  was  perfectly  black  with  them.  Their 
constant  humming  drove  the  men  out  into  the  open  air,  and 
rendered  it  almost  impossible  to  sleep. 

July  15.  At  daybreak  Broadwell  went  back  to  Lander's 
camp,  and  I  dispatched  Osgood  and  Kendall  to  a  high  hill  to 
reconnoitre  and  look  for  a  new  camp.  The  guides  and  hunters 
were  also  sent  on  to  the  Sheyenne  to  ascertain  the  distance,  and 
if  not  too  far  we  would  go  to  it.  Being  very  unwell,  I  laid  by 
all  the  morning,  and  the  delay  of  the  train  was  employed  in 
shoeing  the  animals,  equalizing  loads,  and  arranging  them  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  give  about  nine  hundred  pounds  to  each 
wagon,  and  so  distributed  in  bulk  that  a  portion  of  each  wagon 
could  be  appropriated  to  the  conveyance  of  wood  and  the  meat 
killed  each  day. 

The  men  are  much  interested  in  the  labors  of  Dr.  Suckley, 
the  naturalist.  It  is  amusing  to  see  each  one  making  his  con- 
tribution of  snakes,  reptiles,  birds,  bugs,  etc. 

Near  noon  Osgood  and  his  party  returned,  having  been  to  the 


THE  ALARM  333 

Sheyenne,  where  they  found  no  wood,  poor  grass,  and  swarms 
of  mosquitoes.  Soon  after  the  guides  returned,  announcing  that 
they  had  seen  a  party  of  Sioux  of  a  thousand  lodges,  not  more 
than  nine  miles  in  advance  of  us.  Boutineau's  manner  was  full 
of  fear,  and  his  public  announcement  spread  alarm  through  the 
whole  camp.  I  at  once  gave  orders  to  make  ready,  with  the 
intention  of  visiting  their  camp ;  and,  calling  Boutineau  to  my 
tent,  asked  him  whether  they  were  not  the  Red  River  hunting 
party.  He  assured  me  indignantly  that  "  he  knew  half-breeds 
from  Indians,  and  that  they  were  certainly  Sioux." 

I  suggested  that  they  might  be  friendly  Sioux,  who,  being 
engaged  in  the  hunt  and  hearing  of  our  approach,  were  coming 
forward  to  meet  us,  to  receive  the  usual  presents  and  gratify 
their  curiosity.  He  still  insisted  that  they  were  hostile  Sioux, 
and  saw  in  their  presence  the  explanation  of  the  cause  of  the 
absence  of  the  missing  party.  We  were,  in  his  opinion,  to  be 
surrounded  and  cut  off. 

After  dinner,  as  the  alarm  was  spreading  throughout  the 
command,  the  arms  were  inspected  and  ammunition  distrib- 
uted, and  orders  given  to  have  the  train  in  readiness  to  move 
at  once.  I  sent  Boutineau,  Le  Frambois,  and  Menoc  to  the 
top  of  a  high  ridge  as  a  lookout,  while  a  flag  was  prepared  to 
be  sent  forward  if  necessary.  Word  soon  came  that  the  coun- 
try was  alive  with  Indians,  who  were  fast  surrounding  us; 
and  I  sent  scouts  to  hills  on  the  right  and  left,  having  the 
lake  to  protect  our  rear.  Mounting  my  horse,  I  rode  to  the 
hill  in  front,  and  saw  two  horsemen  rapidly  approaching.  Our 
flag-bearers  rode  forward  to  meet  them,  and  soon  discovered 
that  they  were  two  of  the  Red  River  hunters,  and  that  their 
camp  was  three  miles  beyond  the  Sheyenne.  Having  discerned 
our  party,  they  came  to  invite  us  to  visit  them,  and  expressed 
their  kindly  feelings  for  us.  The  train,  which  before  this  was 
in  motion,  arranged  in  a  double  line,  with  the  pack  and  loose 
animals  between,  proceeded  two  miles,  where  there  was  better 
water,  and  encamped. 

The  agreeable  disappointment  established  a  fine  feeling 
throughout  camp  ;  and,  half  an  hour  after,  Boulieau  and  Lind- 
ner arrived  in  camp  with  news  of  Tinkham's  safety,  which  was 
received  with  three  cheers.     The  men  to-day  showed  a  good 


334  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

spirit,  and  although  there  was  naturally  some  anxiety,  they 
obeyed  e?ery  order  with  alacrity.  Thus  ended  the  apprehen- 
sions of  the  command  concerning  Indians. 

RED   RIVER   HUNTERS. 

July  16.  Awaited  the  coming  up  of  the  back  parties,  and 
during  the  morning  Tinkham  arrived  and  was  received  with 
nine  cheers,  being  followed  soon  after  by  the  rest  of  the  rear 
guard.  About  two  p.  M.  the  whole  Red  River  train  came  in 
sight,  and  as  they  approached,  fired  a  succession  of  volleys 
of  firearms  as  a  salute,  which  we  returned  with  three  rounds 
from  the  howitzer.  The  train  consisted  of  824  carts,  about 
1200  animals,  and  1800  persons,  men,  women,  and  children, 
the  whole  presenting  a  very  fine  appearance. 

They  encamped  near  by,  and  the  close  yard  which  they 
formed  presented  quite  a  contrast  to  the  open  camp  adopted  by 
us.  They  made  a  circular  or  square  yard  of  the  carts,  placed 
side  by  side,  with  the  hubs  adjoining,  presenting  a  barrier 
impassable  either  to  man  or  beast.  The  tents  or  lodges  were 
arranged  within  at  a  distance  of  about  twenty  feet  from  the 
carts,  and  were  of  a  conical  shape,  built  of  poles  covered  with 
skins,  with  an  opening  at  the  top  for  the  passage  of  smoke  and 
for  ventilation.  They  were  one  hundred  and  four  in  number, 
being  occupied  generally  by  two  families,  averaging  about  ten 
persons  to  the  lodge.  Skins  were  spread  over  the  tops  of  the 
carts,  and  underneath  many  of  the  train  found  comfortable 
lodging-places.  The  animals  were  allowed  to  run  loose  during 
the  day  to  feed,  but  were  driven  into  the  corral  at  dark.  Thirty- 
six  of  the  men  were  posted  as  sentinels,  remaining  on  guard  all 
night.  We  had  but  twelve  guards,  three  reliefs,  not  more  than 
four  men  being  on  guard  at  one  time. 

As  our  camps  were  only  about  two  hundred  yards  apart, 
there  was  much  visiting  between  them.  I  was  struck  with  the 
good  conduct  and  hospitable  kindness  of  these  people.  A  small 
band  of  prairie  Chippewa  Indians,  who  accompanied  this  party, 
visited  our  camp  during  the  evening,  and  entertained  us  with 
one  of  their  national  dances. 

I  was  much  pleased  with  Governor  Wilkie,  who  is  the  head 
of  the  expedition.     He  is  a  man  about  sixty  years  of  age,  of 


RED  RIVER  HUNTERS  335 

fine  appearance  and  pleasant  manners.  This  party  are  resi- 
dents of  Pembina  and  its  vicinity.  When  at  home  they  are 
engaged  in  agriculture,  raising  wheat,  corn,  potatoes,  and  bar- 
ley. The  land  yields  about  twenty-five  bushels  of  wheat  to  the 
acre,  their  farms  averaging  about  fifteen  acres  each.  They  are 
industrious  and  frugal  in  their  habits,  and  are  mostly  of  the 
Romish  persuasion,  leading  a  virtuous  and  pious  life.  They  are 
generally  accompanied  by  their  priests,  and  attend  strictly  to 
their  devotions,  having  exercises  every  Sabbath,  on  which  day 
they  neither  march  nor  hunt. 

Their  municipal  government  is  of  a  parochial  character, 
being  divided  into  five  parishes,  each  one  presided  over  by  an 
officer  called  the  captain  of  the  parish.  On  departing  for  the 
hunt,  they  select  a  man  from  the  whole  number,  who  is  styled 
governor  of  the  hunt,  who  takes  charge  of  the  party,  regulates 
its  movements,  acts  as  referee  in  all  cases  where  any  differences 
arise  between  the  members  in  regard  to  game  or  other  matters, 
and  takes  command  in  case  of  difficulty  with  the  Indians. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  year,  till  the  middle  of  June,  these 
people  work  at  agriculture,  when  they  set  out  on  their  first 
hunt,  leaving  some  thirty  at  the  settlements  in  charge  of  their 
farms,  houses,  stock,  etc.  They  start  out  to  the  southward  in 
search  after  buffalo,  taking  with  them  their  families,  carts,  and 
animals.  These  carts,  when  loaded,  contain  about  eight  hun- 
dred pounds,  and  are  used  in  common.  There  were  three  hun- 
dred and  thirty-six  men  in  the  present  train,  of  whom  three 
hundred  were  hunters.  Each  hunt,  of  which  there  are  two 
every  year,  continues  about  two  months,  the  first  starting  in 
June,  the  second  about  the  middle  of  October.  Their  carts 
were  already  half  full,  and  they  expected  to  return  to  their 
homes  in  the  latter  part  of  August.  On  their  first  trip  the 
buffalo  are  hunted  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  pemmican, 
dried  meat,  tongues,  etc. ;  the  skins,  being  useless  for  robes,  are 
dressed  for  lodge-skins,  moccasins,  etc.  In  October  the  meat 
is  still  better  and  fatter,  and  they  procure  a  like  quantity  of 
dried  meat,  reserving  sufficient  for  a  year's  provisions,  which 
is  about  one  half  of  the  whole  amount  procured ;  they  dispose 
of  the  rest  at  the  trading-posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 
The  meat  which  they  carry  home  finds  its  way,  through  the 


336  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Red  River  traders  of  the  Fur  Company,  to  Fort  Snelling,  where 
it  is  exchanged  for  goods,  sugar,  coffee,  etc.,  at  the  rate  of 
fifteen  cents  a  pound. 

The  trade  of  this  country  is  all  in  dry-goods,  sugar,  tea,  am- 
munition, etc.  Notes  are  also  issued  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, which  are  currency  among  them.  Several  of  these,  of  the 
denomination  of  five  shillings,  payable  at  York  Factory  and 
bearing  the  signature  of  Sir  George  Simpson,  were  offered  in 
change  to  various  members  of  the  expedition  on  purchasing 
articles.  The  skins  collected  in  the  summer  hunt  are  usually 
retained  by  the  hunters  for  their  own  use,  while  the  robes  col- 
lected in  the  fall  hunt  are  a  staple  of  trade  with  the  Fur  Com- 
pany, and  also  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  which  latter 
company  do  a  large  business  in  this  portion  of  the  country, 
supplying  the  settlers  with  most  of  their  clothes,  groceries,  etc. 

The  Red  River  settlements  are  made  up  of  a  population  of 
half-breeds,  traders  of  the  Hudson  Bay  and  Fur  Companies, 
discharged  employees  of  these  companies,  and  Indians,  repre- 
sentatives of  every  nation  of  Europe,  —  Scotch,  Irish,  English, 
Canadians,  —  and  speaking  a  jargon  made  up  of  these  dialects, 
intermingled  with  Chippewa  and  Sioux,  patois  French  being 
the  prevailing  tongue.  These  settlements,  started  some  twenty- 
five  years  since,  now  number,  in  the  vicinity  of  Pembina  Moun- 
tain, some  four  thousand  people.  The  men  are  generally  much 
finer  looking  than  the  women.  On  the  latter  depend  all  the 
drudgery  of  camp  duties,  pitching  the  tents,  attending  to  ani- 
mals, cooking,  etc.  The  men  dress  usually  in  woolens  of 
various  colors.  The  coat  generally  worn,  called  the  Hudson 
Bay  coat,  has  a  capote  attached  to  it.  The  belts  are  finely  knit, 
of  differently  colored  wool  or  worsted  yarn,  and  are  worn  after 
the  manner  of  sashes.  Their  powder-horn  and  shot-bag,  at- 
tached to  bands  finely  embroidered  with  beads  or  worked  with 
porcupine  quills,  are  worn  across  each  shoulder,  making  an  X 
before  and  behind.  Many  also  have  a  tobacco-pouch  strung 
to  their  sashes,  in  which  is  tobacco  mixed  with  kinnickinnick 
(dried  bark  of  the  osier  willow  scraped  fine),  a  fire-steel,  punk, 
and  several  flints.  Add  to  these  paraphernalia  a  gun,  and  a 
good  idea  will  be  formed  of  the  costume  of  the  Red  River 
hunter.     The  women  are  industrious,  dress  in  gaudy  calicoes, 


BUTTE  DE  MORALE  337 

are  fond  of  beads  and  finery,  and  are  remarkably  apt  at  mak- 
ing bead-work,  moccasins,  and  sewing. 

We  purchased  from  the  train  a  supply  of  pemmican,  dried 
meat,  sugar,  and  other  things,  some  of  the  men  buying  mocca- 
sins, whips,  and  other  necessaries. 

I  engaged  the  services  of  Alexis  Le  Bombard,  who  was  in 
company  with  this  encampment,  as  guide  to  the  Yellowstone. 
He  came  from  the  Yellowstone  this  season,  and  the  impression 
gathered  from  my  interview  with  him,  as  well  as  the  represen- 
tations of  others,  satisfied  me  that  he  will  be  extremely  valu- 
able as  a  guide. 

July  18.  Started  a  few  minutes  before  seven,  still  following 
the  trail  of  the  Red  River  train.  About  eight  o'clock  we  crossed 
a  branch  of  the  Sheyenne,  flowing  through  a  deep  valley  with 
an  extended  plateau,  bounded  on  both  sides  by  the  high  coteau. 
This  stream  appears  to  take  its  rise  in  a  number  of  small  lakes, 
and  the  branch  crossed  this  morning  is  slightly  brackish.  Many 
of  the  lakes  are  very  salt.  These  appear  to  have  no  outlet,  and 
their  saline  qualities  are  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  they  are 
never  washed  out,  and  consequently  retain  the  salt  deposits 
and  incrustations.  We  often  notice  in  this  region  lakes  lying 
very  close  to  each  other,  in  some  cases  not  more  than  twenty 
yards  apart ;  one  will  be  so  saline  as  to  be  offensive,  while  the 
water  of  the  other  will  be  excellent  to  the  taste.  We  passed 
to-day  a  narrow  lake,  some  three  miles  in  length,  somewhat  re- 
sembling a  canal.  It  lay  at  the  foot  of  a  high  hill,  called  the 
Butte  de  Morale.  Here  occurred  an  engagement  between  some 
half-breeds  and  Sioux,  in  which  one  of  the  former,  by  the  name 
of  Morale,  was  killed ;  hence  its  name.  The  altitude  of  this 
butte,  as  determined  by  barometric  measurement,  is  281.8  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  Sheyenne  River. 

Our  way  was  strewn  with  the  carcasses  of  many  buffaloes 
killed  by  the  Red  River  hunting  party.  At  times  the  air  was 
very  much  tainted.  One  of  our  men  reported  having  ridden 
through  a  section  of  land,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  square,  on  which 
were  strewn  the  remains  of  some  three  hundred  buffaloes.  In 
killing  these  animals,  only  the  choice  bits  and  hides  are  taken, 
and  the  remainder  is  left  as  a  prey  to  wolves,  or  to  rot  on  the 
ground. 


•'  UNIVERS 


338  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

We  had  wood  to-day,  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Lake 
Jessie,  our  fuel  in  the  mean  time  consisting  of  greasewood  and 
buffalo  chips.  The  sight  of  a  camp-fire  of  wood  is  quite  a  treat 
to  us.  Our  camp  is  beautifully  located  on  a  range  of  hills, 
nearly  surrounded  with  salt  lakes,  called  the  White  Wood 
Lakes.  An  excellent  spring  near  by  furnishes  us  an  abundant 
supply  of  cold,  fresh  water.  The  odometer  line  measured  to- 
day was  twenty  and  a  half  miles.  That  pursued  by  the  train 
was  probably  two  miles  longer. 

July  19.  Our  course  lay  over  a  level  country.  After  pro- 
ceeding ten  miles  we  crossed  a  branch  of  the  Sheyenne  River, 
at  this  time  very  shallow,  but  the  high  banks  on  each  side,  to- 
gether with  the  grass  and  deposits,  gave  evidence  of  its  size 
during  the  freshets  in  the  spring.  After  traveling  sixteen 
and  one  half  miles,  we  encamped  near  a  small  lake  in  sight 
of  the  Maison  du  Chien,  which  by  bearings  and  calculation, 
Mr.  Tinkham  estimated  to  be  about  twenty-one  miles  distant. 
We  passed  on  the  march  several  salt-marshes  abounding  with 
tadpoles,  from  which  the  effluvia  was  very  offensive.  In  some 
places  the  ground  was  covered  with  deposits  of  salt  to  the  depth 
of  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  I  am  much  pleased  with  our  new 
guide,  Le  Bombard,  who  appears  to  have  a  very  accurate  know- 
ledge of  the  country,  although  his  ideas  of  distance  are  not  found 
to  be  very  reliable,  which  is  generally  the  case  with  voyageurs. 

July  20.  Fitted  out  Lander's  party,  consisting  of  himself, 
Le  Frambois,  Guy,  and  Rummell,  to  make  a  reconnoissance  of 
Butte  Maison  du  Chien  and  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  to  connect 
our  work  with  Lieutenant  Grover's  survey,  and  join  us  on  the 
Mouse  River  in  four  days.  We  moved  off  about  half  past  six, 
and  after  traveling  five  miles  reached  the  first  tributary  of  the 
Mouse  River.  The  crossing  occupied  nearly  three  hours,  the 
water  being  shoulder  deep  ;  half  the  wagon-loads  were  removed 
and  carried  across  in  the  india-rubber  boat.  The  road  was 
generally  very  good,  passing  over  a  level  prairie  intersected 
with  lakes  and  sloughs.  About  twelve  miles  from  camp  we 
struck  a  beautiful  ridge,  resembling  a  railroad  embankment, 
which  lay  directly  in  our  compass  course ;  on  the  top  of  this 
the  train  moved  for  some  miles.  We  passed  around  the  first 
coulee  of  the  Mouse  River,  and  after  a  march  of  some  seventeen 


RED  RIVER  HUNTERS  339 

miles  (odometer  measurement,  15.7),  encamped  on  the  bank  of 
a  small  lake. 

July  21.  Left  camp  at  six  A.  M.  It  commenced  raining 
about  nine,  and  lasted  an  hour  or  more.  About  eight  miles 
from  camp  we  saw  the  tracks  of  Grover's  train  in  a  slough,  by 
which  we  judged  that  he  had  passed  some  days  previous.  Soon 
after  this  we  crossed  one  of  the  coulees  making  into  Mouse 
River.  These  coulees  are  very  severe  on  the  animals,  in  some 
places  being  very  steep.  We  traveled  to-day  sixteen  miles. 
Our  camp  is  located  on  the  top  of  a  ridge,  which  descends 
into  a  coulee.  We  are  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  valley  of  Mouse  River.  There  is  plenty  of  timber  in  the 
coulee  which  we  are  to  cross  to-morrow  in  starting. 

July  22.  Left  camp  about  6.30  o'clock,  and  found  the  cross- 
ing of  the  coulee,  about  half  a  mile  to  our  left.  On  the  other 
side  of  the  coulee  we  have  a  fine  level  plateau  ahead.  The 
grand  Coteau  du  Missouri  was  in  sight  all  day.  The  depth  of 
the  first  coulee,  as  indicated  by  the  barometer,  was  eighty-two 
feet  below  our  camp.  About  four  miles  out  we  crossed  another 
severe  coulee  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  below  the  level  of  our 
camp.  The  third  coulee  was  a  depression  of  fifty-four  feet,  the 
prairie  level  being  some  forty-two  feet  lower  than  the  level  of 
our  last  camp. 

While  making  our  usual  midday  halt  we  were  overtaken  by 
two  hunters  of  the  Red  River  train  from  the  vicinity  of  the 
Selkirk  settlements,  who  were  encamped  some  eight  miles  dis- 
tant. They  invited  me  to  visit  them,  which  I  determined  upon 
doing,  and,  placing  the  train  in  charge  of  Dr.  Suckley,  I  gave 
him  directions  to  move  on  some  eight  miles,  find  a  good  camp- 
ing place,  and  await  my  return. 

July  23.  During  my  absence  this  morning  Dr.  Suckley  sent 
Le  Bombard  and  Sergeant  Lindner  ahead  some  twelve  miles  to 
reconnoitre  for  a  good  road  for  the  train;  Messrs.  Tinkham 
and  Burr  went  to  the  Mouse  River,  and  Mr.  Moffett,  accom- 
panied by  Broadwell,  went  to  the  Grand  Coteau. 

I  sent  Guy  and  Rummell  ahead  to  Dr.  Suckley's  camp  to 
apprise  him  of  our  coming.  At  about  four  o'clock,  accom- 
panied by  Governor  de  L'Orme  and  seven  of  his  principal  men, 
we  started  towards  Dr.  Suckley's  camp.     The  whole  force  of 


340  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  survey,  headed  by  Dr.  Suckley,  Sergeant  Lindner  bearing 
an  American  flag,  met  us  about  a  mile  out  of  camp,  and  saluted 
us  with  a  volley  from  their  guns,  the  mountain  howitzer  being 
fired  three  times.  A  large  tent  was  put  up  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  our  guests,  and  Governor  de  L'Orme  was  invited  to 
share  my  tent.  The  guard  tent  was  made  use  of  as  a  banquet- 
ing-room,  and  several  of  the  men  were  detailed  to  collect  buffalo 
chips.  The  cooks  of  the  various  messes  assisted  each  other,  and 
the  meal  was  ready  for  us  about  nine  o'clock.  Tinkham  and 
Burr  got  in  just  in  time  to  partake  of  it  with  us,  as  also  did 
Moffett  and  Broadwell.  Mr.  Moffett  reported  the  height  of 
the  bluff  or  Coteau  range  as  seven  hundred  and  two  feet  above 
the  level  of  Mouse  River,  and  distant  twenty  miles  from  it ;  the 
height  of  the  hill  seven  miles  from  the  camp  of  to-day  is  two 
hundred  and  fifty-six  feet. 

Seated  around  the  camp-fire,  we  had  a  very  pleasant  confer- 
ence with  our  friends.  I  was  very  favorably  impressed  with 
Governor  de  L'Orme,  and  with  his  opinion  in  regard  to  their 
right  to  hunt  on  our  territory,  they  being  residents  of  the 
country  north  of  our  boundary  line.  They  claim  the  protection 
of  both  governments,  and  the  doubt  as  to  the  position  of  the 
boundary  line  makes  them  ignorant  as  to  which  one  they  have 
the  most  claim  upon.  During  the  hunting  season  they  carry 
with  them  their  families  and  their  property,  and  they  consider 
that  this  territory  is  open  to  them,  that  the  right  to  hunt  on 
it  belongs  to  them,  and  that  their  children  born  during  this 
transit  over  our  soil  possess  the  heritage  of  American  citizens. 
With  but  little  care,  our  government  could  obtain  the  whole  of 
these  people  as  citizens,  thus  protecting  and  building  up  our 
frontier,  and  having  in  this  vicinity  always  a  controlling  check 
upon  the  Indians.  Already  is  the  salutary  effect  of  their  pre- 
sence visible  in  the  entire  safety,  now,  with  which  single  white 
men  and  small  parties  can  go  through  this  country.  Their  vir- 
tuous mode  of  life,  their  industry  and  frugality,  their  adapta- 
tion to  frontier  life,  all  combine  to  render  them  a  valuable  class 
of  people,  and  well  worthy  the  attention  of  our  government. 
They  expressed  a  desire  that  I  should  represent  these  things  to 
the  government,  and  I  assured  them  that  I  would  do  so  with 
pleasure.    Governor  de  L'Orme,  before  retiring  to  rest,  attended 


RED  RIVER  HUNTERS  341 

to  his  devotions,  and  I  have  been  struck  with  his  piety  and  real 
goodness,  manifested  in  his  conduct  and  conversation. 

July  24.  We  took  a  late  breakfast  this  morning,  and  after 
parting  with  our  guests  we  got  off  at  nine  A.  M.  We  halted 
for  two  hours  at  noon,  during  which  time  the  hunters  went  out 
and  drove  a  herd  of  buffalo  towards  us,  and  right  on  the  line 
killed  two  fine  cows.  I  sent  Mr.  Tinkham  and  Paul  Boulieau 
out  to  the  Mouse  River,  which  they  followed  some  distance,  as 
also  the  Eiver  of  the  Lakes,  joining  us  at  camp  at  eight  p.  m. 
We  made  fifteen  miles  and  a  quarter  to-day,  and  the  grazing 
is  excellent. 

July  25.  The  express  started  this  morning  at  six  for  Fort 
Union,  which  I  think  cannot  be  over  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  distant.  It  consists  of  Mr.  Osgood,  Boutineau,  Henry 
Boulieau,  and  Gray.  They  are  to  procure  additional  wagons 
or  carts  at  Fort  Union,  and  carry  letters  to  Lieutenants  Grover 
and  Donelson.  Messrs.  Tinkham,  Lander,  and  Paul  Boulieau 
went  to-day  to  make  an  examination  of  the  Mouse  River  valley 
and  the  River  of  the  Lakes.  We  had  but  one  coulee  to  cross, 
and  that  was  shallow,  and  offered  no  impediment.  We  made 
to-day  twenty-one  miles,  and  found  fine  grass  and  excellent 
water  at  our  camp. 

July  26.  We  started  this  morning  about  six  o'clock,  and, 
traveling  eleven  and  one  half  miles,  we  halted  on  the  bank  of  a 
lake.  A  herd  of  buffalo  approached  on  the  south  side  of  this 
lake  to  drink,  and  crossed  within  gunshot  on  the  opposite  side. 
Some  of  our  party  fired  at  them,  and  Le  Bombard  followed, 
and  killed  a  fine,  fat  cow.  About  seven  miles  farther  on  I 
received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Osgood  by  the  hands  of  an  Assini- 
boine  Indian.  The  express  party  camped  last  night  about  ten 
miles  ahead  of  this  place  at  a  large  encampment  of  Assiniboine 
Indians,  numbering  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  lodges  and 
twelve  hundred  persons.  The  Indians  built  for  them  a  lodge  in 
the  centre  of  their  camp,  and  treated  them  with  great  hospitality. 
One  of  them  offered  to  act  as  Mr.  Osgood's  express,  and  he  told 
them  that  on  my  arrival  I  would  have  a  talk  with  them  and 
make  them  some  presents.  By  this  note  I  also  learned  that 
Lieutenant  Grover  had  passed  some  eight  miles  to  the  east  of 
our  line  about  four  days  ago. 


342  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

July  27.  Reaching  camp  a  little  after  noon,  fifteen  miles 
from  last  night's  camp,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  that 
of  the  Assiniboines,  numbers  of  Indians  rode  out  to  welcome  us. 
We  found  them  to  be  under  the  command  of  the  chiefs  Blue 
Thunder  and  Little  Thunder,  the  latter  probably  thirty-six  years 
of  age.  As  soon  as  we  were  encamped,  they  informed  me  that 
they  had  reserved  a  present  of  skins  for  me,  and  were  making 
preparations  to  have  a  talk.  While  dinner  was  being  prepared, 
many  seated  themselves  in  squads  around  the  tents,  smoking 
with  the  men.  One  large  pipe  served  a  dozen,  and  the  custom 
adopted  is  to  smoke  it  a  little  and  pass  it  to  their  neighbor,  and 
thus  go  round.  It  is  the  first  signal  of  welcome  or  friendship 
after  the  hand  is  offered,  and  they  will  have  no  business  or 
other  transaction  previous  to  it. 

After  dinner,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Suckley,  Messrs.  Stanley, 
Lander,  Tinkham,  Everett,  Evans,  Adams,  Menoc,  with  Paul 
Boulieau,  Le  Bombard,  and  Le  Frambois  as  interpreters,  I  went 
to  their  camp,  which  was  irregularly  arranged  in  a  sort  of 
corral,  consisting  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  lodges,  averag- 
ing ten  persons  to  each  lodge. 

Our  approach  was  hailed  by  the  barking  of  an  immense 
number  of  dogs.  These  dogs  are  a  prominent  feature  in  every 
Indian  camp,  being  used  for  drawing  lodges,  provisions,  and 
property  from  place  to  place,  —  indeed,  furnishing  the  entire 
transportation  of  the  Indians  in  winter.  A  sledge  drawn  by 
four  dogs  will  carry  two  hundred  pounds  over  the  snow  with 
great  ease.  They  appeared  also  to  be  abundantly  supplied  with 
horses,  many  of  which  were  of  good  quality.  All  the  women 
and  children  turned  out  of  the  lodges  as  we  passed,  curious  to 
see  us.  Frames  of  poles  stood  around,  upon  which  skins  and 
meat  were  drying.  Yet,  in  spite  of  the  appearance  of  plenty, 
all  had  a  look  of  poverty,  judging  from  the  meagreness  of 
clothing  and  the  length  of  time  it  appeared  to  have  been  worn, 
while  all  appeared  very  filthy  and  miserable. 

A  very  large  lodge,  about  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  had  been 
erected  for  our  reception  in  the  centre  of  the  inclosure,  within 
which  we  found  seated  two  circles  of  chiefs,  braves,  warriors, 
and  others.  At  the  back  of  the  lodge  was  arranged  a  long  seat 
for  us,  consisting  of  a  pile  of  skins,  which  were  afterwards  pre- 
sented to  me. 


ASSINIBOINE  INDIANS  343 

There  were  about  eighty  persons  present,  including  our  own 
party.  During  the  preparation  for  the  ceremonial  reception, 
there  was  a  general  smoking  among  all  present,  during  which 
an  old  man,  one  of  the  dignitaries  of  the  tribe,  prepared  the 
pipe  of  reception,  only  smoked  on  great  occasions.  The  stem 
was  decked  with  ribbons  of  various  colors,  and  when  it  stood 
obliquely,  feathers  would  drop  down  like  the  wing  of  a  bird.  At 
the  lower  end  of  this  pipe,  where  it  enters  the  bowl,  was  a 
duck's  head.  The  pipe-stem  was  supported  against  a  small 
stick  stuck  in  the  ground  and  crotched  at  the  end.  The  pipe 
was  turned  towards  the  sun,  the  invariable  practice  in  such 
cases.  Some  sweet  grass,  platted,  was  then  set  on  fire  and  used 
in  the  manner  of  incense,  both  to  the  bowl  and  the  stem.  After 
lighting  the  pipe  with  the  scented  grass,  it  was  planted  near  by 
in  a  small  hole  and  burned. 

During  the  smoking  the  bearer  of  the  pipe  shook  hands 
with  each  member  of  our  party,  handing  the  pipe  after  this 
ceremony  was  over.  Then  a  bowl  of  water  was  handed  around 
by  a  second  individual,  who  also  shook  hands  with  each  one  of 
us  before  we  drank  of  the  contents  of  the  bowl.  Next  came 
the  eating  of  soup,  made  of  buffalo  and  typsina,  a  species  of 
turnip,  which  was  rich  and  greasy  but  quite  palatable.  Soon 
after  this  ceremony,  which  completed  the  reception,  an  old  man 
advanced  to  me  and  shook  hands,  after  which  he  shook  the 
.hand  of  each  member  of  our  company.  His  appearance  was 
much  in  his  favor,  carrying  himself  with  great  dignity.  With 
considerable  fluency,  and  at  times  with  many  gestures,  he 
addressed  me  substantially  as  follows  :  — 

"  My  father,  you  see  us  now  as  we  are.  We  are  poor.  We 
have  but  few  blankets  and  little  clothing.  The  Great  Father  of 
Life,  who  made  us  and  gave  us  these  lands  to  live  upon,  made 
the  buffalo  and  other  game  to  afford  us  subsistence ;  their  meat 
is  our  only  food ;  with  their  skins  we  clothe  ourselves  and  build 
our  lodges.  They  are  our  only  means  of  life,  food,  fuel,  and 
clothing.  But  I  fear  we  shall  soon  be  deprived  of  these ;  star- 
vation and  cold  will  destroy  us.  The  buffalo  are  fast  disappear- 
ing, and  before  many  years  will  be  destroyed.  As  the  white 
man  advances,  our  means  of  life  will  grow  less.  We  will  soon 
have  to  seek  protection  in  our  poverty  from  the  Great  Father, 
who  can  so  well  supply  it. 


344  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

"  My  father,  we  hear  that  a  great  road  is  to  be  made  through 
our  country.  We  do  not  know  what  this  is  for,  we  do  not 
understand  it,  but  we  think  it  will  drive  away  the  buffalo.  We 
like  to  see  our  white  brothers ;  we  like  to  give  them  the  hand 
of  friendship ;  but  we  know  that,  as  they  come,  our  game  goes 
back.     What  are  we  to  do?  " 

After  shaking  hands  with  all  of  us  he  sat  down,  and  after  a 
short  interval  of  silence  the  chief,  through  his  interpreter,  sig- 
nified a  desire  to  hear  me  reply. 

I  explained  that  the  road  to  be  made  from  the  Mississippi  to 
the  Pacific  would  not  injure  the  Indians,  nor  deprive  them  of 
comforts ;  that  whites  would  settle  along  the  line,  and,  though 
they  would  drive  off  the  buffalo,  they  would  also  supply  other 
articles  in  place  of  them.  They  would  receive  from  the  Presi- 
dent implements  of  agriculture,  and  learn  to  till  the  soil,  so  as 
to  obtain  food  with  less  labor  than  now. 

I  told  them  that  I  would  go  through  the  lands  of  the  Black- 
feet  and  other  Indians  beyond  the  Yellowstone,  carrying  the 
friendly  messages  of  the  Great  Father,  and  insisting  on  peace 
among  all,  to  secure  the  safety  of  the  whites.  My  remarks 
seemed  to  make  a  very  favorable  impression,  and  were  received 
with  every  mark  of  respect.  Their  approbation  was  shown,  as 
each  paragraph  was  interpreted,  by  the  ejaculation  "  How !  "  a 
common  word,  answering  every  purpose  of  salutation,  approval, 
or  concurrence. 

The  present  they  gave  me  consisted  of  thirty-two  dressed 
skins  and  two  robes. 

We  spent  about  half  an  hour  in  going  around  among  the 
various  lodges,  and  then  returned  to  our  camp,  being  followed 
by  the  whole  encampment.  During  the  time  we  were  engaged 
in  inspecting  their  camp,  they  became  aware  of  the  profession 
of  Dr.  Suckley,  and  there  was  scarcely  a  lodge  that  did  not 
contain  some  patient  for  his  medical  attention.  The  doctor 
vaccinated  some  eight  or  nine,  and  through  Le  Frambois  ex- 
plained its  object.  It  was  near  dusk  when  the  party  arrived  at 
our  camp  and  were  arranged  to  receive  their  presents.  They 
were  seated  around  in  the  form  of  three  sides  of  a  square,  the 
open  side  being  opposite  the  places  occupied  by  our  party,  the 
chief,  and  higher  order  of  the  Indians.     At  each  of  the  four 


FORT  UNION  345 

corners  was  posted  a  brave  or  chief.  These  men  never  receive 
a  gift,  considering  it  a  degradation  to  receive  anything  but  what 
their  own  prowess  acquires  for  them.  Their  hearts  are  so  good 
and  strong  that  they  scorn  to  take  anything,  and  self-denial  and 
the  power  to  resist  temptation  to  luxury,  or  easily  acquired 
property,  is  a  boast  with  them.  On  these  men  in  time  of  peace, 
when  difficulties  occur  among  themselves,  the  tribe  relies,  and 
in  time  of  war  they  are  their  leaders  to  the  scene  of  action. 
To  two  old  men  of  the  tribe  was  assigned  the  duty  of  making 
the  distribution,  and  the  presents  were  placed  in  the  centre  of 
the  area.  During  the  whole  distribution  the  Indians  sat  in 
perfect  silence.  All  seemed  satisfied  with  the  articles  they 
received,  and  not  a  grumble  escaped  one  of  them.  After  this 
was  over  they  returned  to  their  camp,  the  chiefs  and  braves 
remaining.  At  half  past  eight  we  had  a  collation  of  coffee  and 
bread  in  our  mess  tent,  and  remained  till  a  late  hour,  smoking 
and  conversing.  Soon  after  this  our  friends  left,  myself  and 
the  interpreters  escorting  them  outside  the  sentinels.  I  was 
much  pleased  with  these  Indians,  and  they  seemed  to  be  very 
favorably  inclined  towards  the  whites,  and  sincere  in  their  pro- 
fessions of  friendship.  Nothing  to-day  of  the  slightest  value 
has  been  missed,  as  far  as  I  can  learn. 

July  28.  It  was  very  late  this  morning  before  we  started* 
being  occupied  in  fitting  out  a  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  Lander, 
Dr.  Suckley,  Mr.  Burr,  and  Corporal  Rummell,  with  instruc- 
tions to  strike  the  Pierced  Rock  on  Mouse  River,  and  make  a 
careful  examination  for  coal  and  iron.  They  were  to  explore 
the  White  Earth  River,  examine  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  and, 
reaching  the  49th  parallel,  make  a  detour  to  the  northwest,  and 
arrive  at  the  Yellowstone  in  some  three  or  four  days. 

Four  days  later,  on  August  1,  after  a  march  of  eighty 
miles  along  the  Mouse  River  and  the  River  of  the  Lakes, 
they  reached  Fort  Union.  As  the  broad  Missouri  and  its 
beautiful  bluff  banks  dotted  with  timber  came  into  view, 
the  whole  party  gave  three  cheers.  Lieutenants  Donelson 
and  Grover,  who  had  already  arrived  at  the  fort,  and  Mr. 
Denig,  the  trader  in  charge,  came  out  to  meet  them. 
The  governor  mounted  his  horse,  for  the  first  time  since 


346  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  false  alarm  about  the  Sioux,  and  received  them  with 
a  salute  of  a  volley  of  small-arms,  which  was  answered 
by  thirteen  guns  from  the  fort.  News  was  brought  of 
the  death  of  sapper  White,  of  Donelson's  party,  by  the 
accidental  discharge  of  a  gun  in  his  own  hands.  Camp 
was  soon  pitched,  and  the  whole  party  assembled  at  the 
governor's  tent. 

"  I  congratulated  them  on  the  zealous  performance  of  their 
duty,  gave  them  a  cordial  invitation  to  go  on,  and  whatever 
their  determination,  even  should  they  leave  us  here,  promised 
them  an  honorable  discharge.  All  seemed  desirous  of  going 
on,  and  not  one  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  to  leave  the 
expedition. 

"  By  the  great  vigilance  exercised  on  the  march,  the  animals 
had  been  constantly  improving,  gaining  flesh  and  becoming 
cured  of  sores,  so  that,  though  we  started  from  the  Mississippi 
with  forty  disabled  animals,  all  but  one  were  serviceable  on  our 
arrival  at  Fort  Union. 

"The  whole  distance  from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Union  is  by 
odometer  measurement  715.5  miles,  and  we  had  accomplished  it 
in  55  days,  and,  excluding  halts  from  time  to  time,  in  48  travel- 
ing days.  The  rate  of  traveling  was  therefore  about  15  miles  a 
day,  most  of  the  way  over  a  country  almost  unknown,  without 
roads,  and  with  such  an  imperfect  knowledge  of  the  distances 
to  be  made  between  camps  as  to  cramp  our  movements  much 
more  than  if  the  route  had  been  measured  and  itineraries  con- 
structed for  our  use." 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

FORT  UNION  TO  FORT  BENTON 

"  Fort  Union  is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mis- 
souri, about  two  miles  and  three  quarters  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone.  It  was  built  by  the  American  Fur  Company  in 
1830,  and  has  from  that  time  been  the  principal  depot  of  that 
company.  It  is  framed  of  pickets  of  hewn  timber,  about  six- 
teen feet  high,  and  has  two  bastions,  one  at  the  northwest  and 
one  at  the  southeast  corner.  The  main  or  front  entrance  is  on 
the  side  opposite  the  river.  The  fort  is  250  feet  square.  The 
main  buildings,  comprising  the  residence  of  the  superintendent 
and  the  store,  are  on  the  front  or  eastern  side.  They  are  two 
stories  high,  and  built  of  wood.  The  shops  and  dwellings  of 
the  blacksmith,  the  gunsmith,  the  carpenter,  the  shoemaker, 
the  tailor,  and  others  are  of  adobe  or  of  wood,  and  occupy  the 
other  sides.*  These  mechanics  are  mostly  French  half-breeds, 
and  have  half-breed  or  Indian  wives  and  many  children. 
There  is  a  grassy  plain  around  the  fort,  extending  to  the  base 
of  the  rising  ground,  which  is  a  full  mile  distant  on  the  eastern 
side.  The  Assiniboines,  the  Gros  Ventres,  the  Crows,  and 
other  migratory  bands  of  Indians  trade  at  this  fort,  exchanging 
the  skins  of  the  buffalo,  deer,  and  other  animals  for  such  com- 
modities as  they  require.  Mr.  Culbertson,  who  has  occupied 
the  position  of  chief  agent  of  the  company  during  the  past 
twenty  years,  has  under  his  supervision  not  only  Fort  Union, 
but  Forts  Pierre  and  Benton  also.  He  is  a  man  of  great  en- 
ergy, intelligence,  and  fidelity,  and  possesses  the  entire  confi- 
dence of  the  Indians.  His  wife,  a  full-blooded  Indian  of  the 
Blood  band  of  the  Blackfoot  tribe,  is  also  deservedly  held  in 
high  estimation.  Though  she  appears  to  have  made  little  or 
no  progress  in  our  language,  she  has  acquired  the  manners  and 
adapted  herself  to  the  usages  of  the  white  race  with  singular 


348  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

facility.     Their  children  have  been  sent  to  the  States  to  be  edu- 
cated in  our  best  schools." 

Fort  Union  was  long  since  abandoned. 

Agreeably  to  instructions,  Mr.  Culbertson,  immediately 
on  reaching  Fort  Union,  dispatched  expresses  to  the 
chiefs  of  the  Blackfoot  nation  with  presents  of  tobacco 
and  goods,  and  Governor  Stevens's  message :  — 

"  I  desire  to  meet  you  on  the  way,  and  assure  you  of  the 
fatherly  care  and  beneficence  of  the  government.  I  wish  to 
meet  the  Blackfeet  in  a  general  council  at  Fort  Benton.  Do 
not  make  war  upon  your  neighbors.  Remain  at  peace,  and  the 
Great  Father  will  see  that  you  do  not  lose  by  it." 

The  Blackfeet  at  this  time  numbered  12,000,  divided 
into  four  great  bands,  —  Blackfeet  proper,  Bloods,  Pie- 
gans,  and  Gros  Ventres.  Pressing  down  from  the  north 
over  a  century  before,  they  drove  back  the  Crows,  Sho- 
shones,  and  Flatheads,  and  took  possession  of  all  the 
country  about  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  from  above 
the  boundary  line  to  the  Yellowstone,  and  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains  eastward  to  Fort  Union.  True  Ishma- 
elites,  they  waged  perpetual  war  upon  all  other  tribes, 
and  cherished  special  and  inveterate  hostility  against  the 
whites  ever  since  one  of  their  number  was  slain  by  Cap- 
tain Lewis,  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  expedition,  in  1807. 
They  suffered,  indeed,  two  rival  trading-posts  on  the  upper 
Missouri,  three  hundred  miles  above  Fort  Union,  namely, 
Fort  Benton  and  Fort  Campbell,  for  it  was  indispensable 
for  them  to  exchange  their  peltries  for  arms,  ammunition, 
blankets,  and  goods ;  but  the  traders  never  dared  admit 
them  within  the  forts. 

War  was  their  sole  business,  the  only  means  by  which 
the  young  braves  acquired  influence,  gained  wealth,  and 
found  favor  in  the  eyes  of  the  maidens.  Their  war  par- 
ties invariably  started  out  on  foot,  each  warrior  trailing  a 


FORT  UNION  TO  FORT  BENTON  349 

long  lariat,  and  bearing  a  bundle  of  moccasins  with  raw- 
hide soles.  It  was  a  point  of  honor  never  to  return 
unless  mounted,  and  war  parties  were  sometimes  absent 
over  a  year  before  they  succeeded  in  capturing  their 
steeds.  Penetrating  thus  on  foot  from  three  hundred  to 
a  thousand  miles  into  the  country  of  their  foes,  they 
would  patiently  lurk  in  the  mountains,  or  some  hidden 
resort,  until  an  opportunity  offered,  when,  running  off 
the  horses,  and  perhaps  lifting  a  few  scalps,  they  would 
retreat  home  at  full  speed,  mounted  and  triumphant. 
Thus  they  raided  the  Crows  and  Assiniboines  on  the  east 
and  south,  the  Shoshones,  Snakes,  and  Flatheads  on  the 
west,  and  even  beset  the  emigrant  trail  of  the  Platte  and 
South  Pass,  eight  hundred  miles  distant;  and  many  a 
lonely  trapper  and  emigrant  had  fallen  victim  to  their 
cunning  and  ferocity.  Yet  the  chiefs  and  elders  plainly 
saw  that  this  incessant  warfare  was  slowly  but  surely 
cutting  off  their  warriors  in  detail,  and  threatened  the 
ultimate  extinction  of  the  tribe,  and  were  not  unwilling  to 
relinquish  it  for  a  more  peaceful  mode  of  life,  but  ever 
found  it  impossible  to  restrain  the  young  braves. 

With  these  powerful  and  intractable  savages  Governor 
Stevens  undertook  to  make  a  lasting  peace,  not  only 
between  them  and  the  whites,  but  also  between  them 
and  their  hereditary  enemies,  the  other  Indian  tribes.  He 
early  realized  that  the  establishment  of  peace  and  the 
cessation  of  Blackfoot  war  parties  were  indispensable  \o 
the  exploration  and  settlement  of  the  country,  and  the 
passage  of  emigrants  through  it,  and  characteristically 
set  to  work  to  effect  it,  without  waiting  for  orders.  He 
took  every  opportunity  to  meet  and  confer  with  the  chiefs 
and  parties  of  the  Blackfeet,  urging  them  to  make  peace, 
and  proposing  a  great  council  for  the  next  year,  at  which 
they  and  the  whites  and  the  other  Indian  tribes  were  to 
meet  together  and  unite  in  bonds  of  lasting  friendship. 


350  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

From  Fort  Benton  the  governor  reported  his  views  and 
action  to  the  government,  and  in  the  strongest  manner 
recommended  the  holding  of  the  council.  He  sent  Mr. 
Culbertson  expressly  to  carry  his  report  to  Washington, 
and  impress  his  policy  upon  the  government.  It  is 
remarkable  how  Governor  Stevens,  although  eminently 
loyal  and  subordinate  to  authority,  always  impressed  his 
own  views  upon  the  government,  and  caused  them  to  be 
adopted,  instead  of  waiting  for  instructions  to  be  given 
him.  With  his  sagacious  foresight  and  ardent  patriotism, 
he  was  quick  to  discern  needed  measures,  which  always 
appeared  to  him  as  duties  to  be  undertaken,  and  more- 
over he  had  such  courage  and  force  of  character  that  he 
never  hesitated  to  take  the  responsibility  of  any  action 
that  he  deemed  necessary  for  the  public  welfare. 

Thus  far  the  expedition  had  met  with  most  gratifying 
success.  Lieutenant  Donelson  made  a  satisfactory  ex- 
amination of  the  Missouri  to  a  point  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  miles  above  Fort  Union,  and  an  extended 
reconnoissance  of  the  country  north  of  that  point.  The 
main  party  surveyed  two  routes  westward  from  Pike  Lake, 
and  ascertained  the  topographical  features  on  both  flanks 
for  a  wide  scope,  while  Lander,  during  the  stay  at  Fort 
Union,  examined  the  Mouse  River  country  northward  to 
the  49th  parallel.  Dr.  Evans  was  at  work  geologizing  in 
the  Bad  Lands  on  the  other  side  of  the  Missouri.  The 
force  was  now  hardened  to  field  work  and  in  fine  spirits, 
and  the  animals  were  toughened,  thoroughly  broken,  and 
in  fine  condition. 

"  From  the  2d  to  the  9th  of  August  we  were  closely  occupied 
in  preparing  for  the  continuation  of  the  survey.  The  men  were 
engaged  in  making  Pembina  carts,  and  additional  transporta- 
tion was  purchased  of  the  fur  companies.  Our  experience  thus 
far  had  shown  how  well  adapted  ox-trains  were  to  transporta- 
tion, and  accordingly  two  additional  teams  were  added  at  Fort 


FORT  UNION  TO  FORT  BENTON  351 

Union.  In  all  these  arrangements  both  the  fur  companies 
zealously  cooperated,  placing  at  my  disposal  not  only  all  the 
animals  they  could  spare,  but  guides,  hunters,  and  their  in- 
formation in  regard  to  the  country.  We  were,  much  pleased 
and  benefited  by  the  good  offices  of  the  Indian  women  at  the 
two  posts,  the  wives  of  the  officers,  who  fitted  us  out  with  a 
good  assortment  of  moccasins,  gloves,  and  other  guards  against 
the  severity  of  the  weather  in  the  fall  and  winter. 

"  The  voyageurs  belonging  to  the  fur  companies'  posts  thought 
it  a  good  practical  joke  to  spread  bugbear  stories  about  the 
immense  snows  to  be  expected  early  in  the  season,  and  many 
of  the  men  got  to  believe  that  they  would  find  snow  knee-deep 
before  they  reached  Fort  Benton,  and  that  it  would  be  twenty 
feet  deep  in  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  October, 
and  the  men  became  exceedingly  alarmed.  Fortunately  I  had 
with  me  some  books  of  travel  in  that  country,  particularly  De 
Smet's  'Oregon  Missions,'  and  had  carefully  investigated  the 
climates  of  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Mr. 
Culbertson  and  the  officers  of  the  companies  also  gave  me  relia- 
ble information  in  reference  to  the  lightness  and  lateness  of  the 
snow  this  side  of  the  mountains,  and  therefore  little  difficulty 
was  found  in  satisfying  the  men  that  they  had  been  trifled  with 
in  this  matter." 

Advancing  the  expedition  westward  again  in  two  par- 
ties under  Lieutenants  Grover  and  Donelson  on  the  9th 
of  August,  the  governor,  to  quote  from  his  final  report, 

started  on  the  10th  from  Fort  Union  at  about  twelve  o'clock, 
followed  by  a  war  party  of  the  Blackfeet,  consisting  of  twenty 
Blood  Indians  and  forty  Piegan  Indians,  who  arrived  at  Fort 
Union  on  the  8th  on  a  visit  to  my  party,  and  with  whom  I 
had  had  the  most  friendly  interchange  of  civilities.  I  desired 
their  company  for  two  or  three  days  in  order  to  impress  them 
fully  with  the  beneficent  policy  of  our  government  towards  the 
Indians,  and  with  the  peaceable  character  of  my  own  duties 
and  objects,  intending  then  to  dispatch  them  on  their  way  to 
their  several  tribes,  and  to  make  generally  known  to  the  Black- 
foot  nation  our  objects  in  passing  through  their  country.  I 
camped  that  evening  with  Lieutenant  Grover  on  the  Little 


362  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Muddy  River,  when,  towards  night,  a  serious  difficulty  came 
near  happening  between  them  and  our  party.  Mr.  Culbertson 
and  myself,  however,  succeeded  in  arranging  the  matter,  and 
we  spent  a  most  interesting  evening  with  the  principal  men  in 
conversing  about  the  Blackfeet  and  the  Indian  policy  of  our 
government.  On  this  occasion  I  presented  the  subject  of  a 
general  council  to  be  held  at  Fort  Benton  the  ensuing  year,  to 
make  peace  between  the  Blackfoot  Indians  and  the  hunting 
tribes  west  of  the  mountains,  and  to  preserve  peace  with  the 
white  children  of  the  Great  Father.  On  this  as  on  previous 
occasions,  Mrs.  Culbertson,  a  native  of  the  Blood  tribe  of  the 
Blackfeet,  was  unwearied  and  efficient  in  her  good  offices. 

The  next  day  we  reached  the  Big  Muddy  River.  The  cross- 
ing was  at  a  difficult  ford,  and  we  were  all  highly  gratified  at 
the  zeal  and  efficiency  of  one  of  the  Blackfeet,  who  pulled  as 
steadily  at  the  rope  as  any  man  of  my  party. 

Before  leaving  the  Big  Muddy  I  had  a  long  conversation 
with  the  White  Man's  Horse,  the  chief  of  the  war  party  of 
Blackfeet.  He  had  frequently  visited  the  Bitter  Root  valley, 
and  stolen  horses  from  the  Flatheads.  He  observed,  "  I  take 
the  first  Flathead  horse  I  come  to ;  it  is  sure  to  be  a  good  one." 
He  and  one  of  his  men  had  just  returned  from  the  Flathead 
country,  and  they  gave  a  very  favorable  description  of  the 
route,  assuring  me,  pointing  to  my  wagons  and  Pembina  carts, 
that  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  taking  them  through  the 
mountains.  The  country  between  Fort  Union  and  this  point  is 
broken  and  rolling,  with  occasional  formations  of  the  mau- 
vaise  terre  and  outcroppings  of  sandstone.  On  the  Big  Muddy 
there  is  quite  a  large  and  open  valley  of  a  very  good  soil  and 
excellent  grass,  with  a  very  heavy  growth  of  cottonwood  near 
its  junction  with  the  Missouri. 

On  starting  from  the  Big  Muddy  on  the  14th  of  August,  the 
command  was  in  most  excellent  condition  and  spirits.  Two  of 
the  mule  teams  were  strengthened  by  an  additional  pair  of 
mules,  and  the  wagons  were  somewhat  overloaded ;  for  I  deter- 
mined to  take  nearly  all  my  provisions  along,  so  there  should 
be  no  possibility  of  suffering  for  want  of  food,  even  though  the 
depot  of  provisions  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley  had  not  been  estab- 
lished by  Lieutenant  Saxton.  We  made  eleven  and  a  half 
miles,  and  encamped  at  a  most  beautiful  point  in  the  midst  of 


MILK  RIVER  353 

luxuriant  grass.  The  day  was  very  sultry,  some  rain  fell,  and 
one  ox  died  from  the  heat. 

August  15.  Excellent  road  all  day.  Crossed  Poplar  River 
and  encamped  on  the  west  side,  distance  eighteen  miles.  I 
now  felt  the  importance  of  renovating  my  health  in  order  to 
prepare  for  the  mountain  work.  It  had  been  my  custom  thus 
far  to  continue  at  work  till  midnight,  and  to  be  up  with  the 
first  in  the  morning. 

August  16.  The  road  to-day  was  over  the  level  river-bottom 
of  the  Missouri.  Timber  in  sight  all  day,  the  route  running 
through  timber  for  about  a  mile.  Eeached  a  camp  where 
there  was  excellent  water,  grass,  and  abundance  of  timber  at  five 
o'clock,  making  twenty  three  and  two  thirds  miles.  I  issued  this 
evening  an  order  directing  every  person  in  the  expedition,  so  far 
as  it  was  consistent  with  his  duties,  to  walk  a  portion  of  the 
way  each  day ;  for  in  approaching  the  mountains  my  effort  was 
that  the  animals  should  be  increasing  rather  than  diminishing 
in  flesh,  and  our  experience  had  taught  us  that,  by  care  in  all 
these  particulars,  long  marches  could  be  made  and  the  animals 
improved  each  day. 

August  17.  Made  fifteen  miles  to-day,  and  camped  on  the 
Missouri  at  two  o'clock.  The  road  was  over  the  level  river- 
bottom.  Much  side  work  has  been  done  since  leaving  the  Big 
Muddy  by  Lieutenant  Grover,  Mr.  Lander,  and  Mr.  Tinkham, 
and  the  meteorological  observations  have  been  as  numerous 
as  they  were  on  the  route  up  to  Fort  Union.  We  organized 
to-day  a  day  guard  for  the  care  of  the  animals,  the  object  being 
to  keep  them  in  the  best  grazing  without  picketing  as  long  as 
possible. 

August  18.  Passed  through  to-day  villages  of  prairie  dogs. 
Crossed  the  Porcupine  River  about  five  miles  from  camp.  En- 
camped on  Milk  River,  sixteen  miles  being  the  day's  march. 
Here  we  determined  to  remain  a  day  to  prepare  charcoal  for 
the  blacksmith,  and  to  make  observations  for  the  geographical 
position  of  its  mouth,  which  is  considered  a  very  important 
point  in  the  survey.  Our  camp  was  surrounded  by  a  large 
grove  of  Cottonwood,  and  near  it  was  a  delightful  spring  of 
water.  The  valley  of  Milk  River  is  wide  and  open,  with  a 
heavy  growth  of  cotton  wood  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  which 
is  also  to  be  found  along  the  adjacent  shores  of  the  Missouri. 


354  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

At  this  camp,  which  I  named  Camp  Atchison,  in  honor  o£  the 
acting  Vice-President,  I  reduced  to  writing,  and  issued  in  an 
order,  the  instructions  for  the  government  of  the  expedition  and 
the  distribution  of  duties,  under  which  we  had  been  moving  by 
my  verbal  instructions  from  the  Big  Muddy  River.  I  availed 
myself  of  this  opportunity  to  express  my  sense  of  the  services 
of  the  several  members  of  my  party.  On  the  19th  there  was 
some  little  alarm  in  camp  in  consequence  of  false  reports  about 
the  vicinity  of  a  war  party  of  Blackf eet. 

We  left  Camp  Atchison  on  the  20th,  and  after  moving  fifteen 
miles  reached  a  very  pleasant  camp,  with  excellent  grass,  wood, 
and  water.  In  the  evening  there  was  a  very  heavy  thunder- 
storm. My  order  was  read  to  the  gentlemen  of  the  party  this 
evening,  and  was  the  subject  of  general  congratulation,  and  not 
a  little  mischievous  by-play  or  joking. 

August  21.  This  morning  was  clear,  cool,  pleasant,  and  de- 
lightful for  moving.  Engineer  parties,  both  yesterday  and  to- 
day, have  been  actively  at  work  getting  in  the  country  bordering 
the  route  of  the  main  party.  I  dispatched  a  small  party  across 
Milk  River  to  Panther  Hill  to  observe  the  country.  Game  was 
very  abundant ;  plenty  of  buffalo,  antelope,  and  beaver.  A 
heavy  rain  and  thunder-storm  occurred  about  noon.  Wild 
horses  were  reported  as  having  been  seen  to-day  by  the  recon- 
noitring parties.  A  fine  eagle  was  shot  and  brought  in  to  Dr. 
Suckley,  our  naturalist.  To  my  exceeding  regret,  I  found  that 
there  were  points  arising  regarding  the  relations  of  army  offi- 
cers and  civilians,  and  I  concluded  that  the  only  way  to  over- 
come all  difficulty  was  to  pursue  a  firm,  steady  course,  accord- 
ing to  the  terms  of  my  written  order.  The  distance  to-day  was 
seventeen  and  two  thirds  miles. 

August  22.  We  crossed  Milk  River  five  miles  from  camp, 
and  took  a  cut  off  to  the  south.  We  made  our  camp,  after 
moving  nineteen  and  a  half  miles,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
river,  in  the  vicinity  of  a  very  heavy  growth  of  cottonwood, 
there  being  a  high  bluff  between  us  and  the  river.  As  usual, 
the  evening  was  spent  in  considering  the  question  of  the  pro- 
posed Blackfoot  council,  and  in  examining  the  work  of  the  par- 
ties, and  preparing  for  the  work  ahead.  We  passed  through 
large  herds  of  buffalo  to-day. 


THE  GROS  VENTRES  355 

August  23.  We  left  camp  late  in  consequence  of  the  oxen 
straying,  and  about  a  mile  from  camp  crossed  Milk  River. 
The  order  to  walk  some  miles  each  day  has  been  carefully  ob- 
served, and  the  effect  was  to  be  seen  upon  our  animals.  On 
reaching  our  camping-ground,  we  found  a  deputation  of  Gros 
Ventres,  consisting  of  seven  of  their  chiefs,  five  of  whom  were 
accompanied  by  their  wives.  Among  these  was  the  Eagle 
Chief  and  his  son,  White  Eagle,  and  the  Little  Soldier.  The 
wife  of  the  son  of  Eagle  Chief  was  a  very  pretty  woman.  Her 
name  was  the  White  Antelope.  They  welcomed  us  in  the  most 
cordial  manner,  and  were  dignified  in  their  deportment,  which 
was  marked  by  the  strictest  propriety.  We  were  invited  to 
visit  their  camp,  about  thirty  miles  farther  On.  After  smoking 
and  talking  for  some  time,  lunch  was  served  up  about  dusk, 
consisting  of  coffee,  rice,  etc.,  after  which  they  made  us  pre- 
sents of  horses,  giving  one  to  myself  and  two  to  Mr.  Culbertson, 
to  whom  they  seemed  to  be  much  attached.  There  was  a  large 
tent  put  up  for  their  accommodation,  and  supper  was  provided 
about  ten  o'clock. 

As  my  health  had  now  been  rapidly  improving  for  some 
days,  I  determined  to  push  ahead  as  rapidly  as  possible  with 
two  advance  parties  in  order  to  examine  the  approaches  to  the 
mountains.  Accordingly  I  organized  two  parties,  under  Lieu- 
tenant Grover  and  Mr.  Lander,  for  the  above  purpose.  To  Mr. 
Lander  I  assigned  four  and  to  Lieutenant  Grover  five  mem- 
bers of  the  party.  Each  was  provided  with  reserve  horses, 
and  with  fifty  days'  rations  of  flour,  sugar,  and  coffee.  These 
arrangements  delayed  me,  so  that  on  the  following  morning, 

August  24,  I  got  off  somewhat  late,  and  was  obliged  to  go 
into  camp  seven  and  a  half  miles  this  side  of  the  Indian  camp. 
Our  Indian  friends  were  again  with  us  to-night,  and  We  treated 
them  with  bread  and  coffee. 

I  learned  to-day  that  a  feud  has  lately  broken  out  between 
the  Gros  Ventres  and  the  Blackfoot  tribes.  A  Gros  Ventre 
was  married  to  a  Blackfoot  woman.  Traveling  along,  he  was 
attacked,  killed,  and  a  fleet  horse  of  his  stolen.  His  wife  was 
with  him  at  the  time,  and  the  assassin  proposed  that  she  should 
marry  him,  go  northward,  and  the  Gros  Ventres  would  never 
learn  of  the  death  of  one  of  their  tribe.     She  assented.     He 


356  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

gave  her  the  slow  animal,  upon  which  he  had  ridden  himself, 
mounting  the  fast  horse,  which  had  been  taken  from  her  mur- 
dered husband.  They  soon  arrived  at  water ;  she  went  off  to 
get  some,  and  on  her  return  pressed  him  to  go,  as  the  water  was 
very  good.  He  did  so,  leaving  his  horse  with  the  squaw.  After 
he  had  gone  some  two  or  three  hundred  yards  she  mounted  the 
fast  steed,  and,  pursuing  a  contrary  direction,  joined  the  tribe 
of  her  deceased  husband,  and  gave  such  information  as  would 
lead  to  the  revenge  of  his  untimely  death.  I  find  these  Indians 
determined  to  revenge  this  outrage,  and  they  are  now  fitting  out 
war  parties  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  off  straggling  Blackfeet, 
and  stealing  their  horses. 

August  25.  Took  an  early  breakfast,  making  to-day  twenty- 
two  and  a  half  miles,  when  we  reached  the  camp  of  Gros 
Ventres  on  the  bank  of  Milk  River,  at  half  past  three  o'clock. 
This  camp  consisted  of  three  hundred  lodges,  at  least  one 
thousand  horses,  and  over  two  thousand  Indians.  We  were 
soon  waited  on  by  others  of  the  tribe,  dressed  in  their  finest 
costumes,  among  whom  I  would  name  the  Cloudy .  Robe,  who 
presented  me  with  a  horse ;  the  Eagle,  Big  Top,  the  Discoverer 
or  Ball  in  the  Nose,  the  Man  who  goes  on  Horseback,  the 
White  Tail  Deer,  the  Running  Fisher,  the  Two  Elks,  the 
Wolf  Talker,  the  Bear's  Coat,  White  Bear,  the  Clay  Pipe- 
stem  Carrier,  the  Old  Horse,  the  Sitting  Squaw,  the  Little 
White  Calf.  Accompanied  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  party,  I 
visited  their  camp  and  the  lodges  of  the  principal  chiefs,  at  all 
of  which  we  were  treated  with  the  utmost  kindness  and  hospi- 
tality. They  first  received  us  in  a  large  lodge  prepared  for  the 
occasion,  some  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter,  within  which  some 
sixty  were  seated.  We  here  smoked,  drank,  and  ate,  talked 
some  time,  and  then  visited  the  lodges.  I  was  much  struck 
with  the  prominent  characteristics  of  this  tribe.  Polygamy  is 
universal ;  several  of  the  chiefs  above  named  having  four,  five, 
and  even  six  wives,  one  of  whom  is  the  especial  favorite  and 
mistress  of  the  household.  The  husband  will  appropriate  any 
of  them  to  purposes  of  prostitution  when  he  can  profit  by  so 
doing.  They  are  filthy  in  the  extreme  in  their  habits,  many  of 
the  women  actually  eating  the  vermin  out  of  each  other's  heads, 
and  out  of  the  robes  in  which  they  sleep.     Being  improvident, 


THE  GROS  VENTRES  357 

it  is  always  feast  or  famine.  Returned  to  camp  about  eight 
o'clock,  and  fixed  the  next  day  for  a  council. 

August  26.  The  Pembina  train  arrived  shortly  after  break- 
fast, and  the  main  train  about  noon.  The  necessary  prepara- 
tions were  made  for  the  feast,  and  about  one  o'clock  the  Indians 
were  seated  around  in  squads  of  twenty  or  thirty  to  the  number 
of  two  hundred.  Before  the  feast  the  Indians  seemed  to  be 
in  high  glee,  passing  the  time  in  singing  their  songs,  accompa- 
nying them  with  rattles  made  of  the  hoofs  of  antelopes  strung 
very  fancifully  upon  a  piece  of  wood  about  a  foot  long,  with 
which  they  marked  time. 

Shortly  after  the  feast  was  over  we  had  a  council,  at  which 
the  chiefs  and  many  of  the  principal  men  were  present.  Mr. 
Culbertson  acted  as  interpreter.  When  I  first  commenced 
talking  with  them,  I  found  they  were  deeply  enraged  against 
the  Blackfeet  for  the  cause  alluded  to  in  the  journal  of  the 
24th ;  that  they  were  determined  to  wage  war  against  that  tribe. 
I  determined  to  put  an  end  to  this,  and  at  once  made  a  proposi- 
tion to  them  to  settle  with  that  tribe  on  their  delivery  of  the 
offender,  or  making  a  suitable  reparation.  I  then  explained 
the  folly  of  going  to  war ;  how  much  they  would  suffer  from  it 
and  how  little  was  to  be  gained ;  that  it  was  the  desire  of  the 
Great  Father  that  all  his  children  should  be  at  peace  with  each 
other ;  that  while  war  parties  of  both  tribes  were  scouring  the 
country,  the  road  was  dangerous  to  the  whites  who  should  go 
there ;  and  it  was  my  duty  to  demand  that  they  should  not  so 
act  as  to  endanger  the  life  of  a  single  man  of  my  own  party,  or 
any  white  man  who  should  hereafter  travel  through  this  region. 

I  then  proceeded  to  explain  the  objects  of  the  expedition 
in  passing  through  their  country.  I  wished  to  make  a  treaty 
of  peace  between  the  Gros  Ventres,  Blackfeet,  Piegans,  and 
Bloods,  and  between  these  and  the  Indians  west  of  the  moun- 
tains who  resort  to  the  plains  of  the  Missouri  to  hunt  the 
buffalo.  I  then  proceeded  to  explain  the  advantages  which 
would  arise  to  the  Indians  from  entering  into  such  a  treaty, 
and  receiving  from  the  government  directly  what  they  now  get 
from  other  Indians.  They  would  then  obtain  goods,  provisions, 
etc.,  in  the  way  of  annuities ;  could  keep  their  horses,  instead 
of  being  obliged  to  go  with  their  horses  and  purchase  of  other 


358  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Indians  at  an  increased  price,  what  the  liberality  and  bene- 
volence of  the  Great  Father,  in  his  fostering  care  over  his 
children,  would  at  once  freely  and  abundantly  supply  them. 
"  Think  well  of  the  matter.  Suspend  for  the  present  your 
difficulty  with  the  Blackfoot  Indians.  Let  some  of  your  chiefs 
come  with  me  to  Fort  Benton,  and  we  will  try  to  settle  the  diffi- 
culty between  the  tribes.  If  it  cannot  be  settled  there,  let  it 
be  referred  to  a  commissioner  sent  here  by  the  Great  Father, 
who  will  settle  all  your  differences  at  a  council  of  the  tribes  to 
be  held  next  year,  where  the  grievances  of  both  parties  will  be 
fully  heard.  But  I  must  insist  on  the  safe  conduct  of  every 
white  man  through  this  country." 

They  then  held  a  consultation  with  their  braves  and  prin- 
cipal men.  In  about  an  hour  we  met  again.  They  assented 
to  every  proposition  made.  Some  of  their  chiefs  consented  to 
accompany  me  to  Fort  Benton,  and  the  whole  tribe  announced 
their  willingness  to  wait  until  some  time  next  year,  and  refer 
their  difficulties  to  such  a  council.  We  continued  the  talk  for 
some  time,  after  which  the  Indians  were  invited  to  come  over 
to  the  camp  of  the  main  party  and  witness  the  firing  of  the 
howitzer,  which  seemed  to  give  them  much  pleasure.  About 
five  o'clock  we  made  a  distribution  of  the  presents  and  pro- 
visions designed  for  this  tribe,  consisting  of  blankets,  shirts, 
calico,  knives,  beads,  paint,  powder,  shot,  tobacco,  hard  bread, 
etc.  They  received  them  with  the  greatest  satisfaction ;  no 
grumbling  or  envy  was  manifested.  They  continued  about 
our  camp,  loitering,  smoking,  and  talking,  all  the  afternoon 
and  evening. 

August  27.  Busy  this  morning  in  the  purchase  and  ex- 
change of  horses  with  the  Indians.  We  secured  several  very 
good  horses  in  place  of  six  very  indifferent  mules.  Several 
members  of  the  expedition  bought  horses  for  clothing,  guns, 
etc.,  their  private  property,  thus  relieving  for  the  use  of  the 
expedition  their  present  riding  animals.  By  the  distribution 
of  presents  and  provisions,  and  consumption  at  camp,  we 
lightened  our  loads  some  two  thousand  pounds,  apart  from 
the  issue  to  the  detached  parties,  and  have  received  twelve  ser- 
viceable animals  in  place  of  unserviceable  ones,  besides  four 
new  ones  purchased  by  members  of  the  party,  two  presented  to 
me,  and  two  purchased  by  Mr.  Culbertson. 


THE  GROS  VENTRES  359 

August  28.  I  made  to-day  twenty-four  and  a  half  miles  with 
the  advance  parties.  I  was  very  much  pleased  with  the  good 
offices  of  the  Running  Fisher,  who  brought  into  camp  two  of 
our  missing  horses.  By  my  invitation  he  will  accompany  us  to 
Fort  Benton. 

August  29.  The  road  to-day  was  not  as  good  as  usual :  the 
river-bottom  was  much  dried  up,  with  deep  cracks  in  the  soil, 
and  the  numerous  holes  made  by  the  prairie  dogs  were  even,  at 
times,  a  worse  obstacle  to  our  progress.  Made  our  halt  about 
twelve  miles  from  camp,  where  we  dined.  By  an  accident,  the 
wind  being  high,  the  prairie  took  fire,  which  extended  over  con- 
siderable surface.  Our  dining-place  was  on  a  branch  of  Milk 
River,  flowing  from  Cypress  Mountain.  Parallel  to  this,  and 
some  three  miles  farther  on,  crossed  a  second  branch,  issuing 
also  from  the  Cypress  Mountain.  By  a  bend,  the  two  branches 
nearly  meet,  forming  what  is  called  the  junction. 

Mr.  Culbertson  estimates  the  number  of  the  Gros  Ventres  at 
about  three  hundred  lodges,  ten  persons  to  the  lodge,  of  which 
the  proportion  of  men  to  women  is  one  to  two,  the  number  of 
men  being  about  six  hundred.  On  his  arrival  in  the  country 
twenty-three  years  ago,  they  numbered  four  hundred  lodges. 
In  1838-39,  by  a  junction  of  the  Crees  and  Assiniboines,  some 
sixty  lodges  were  entirely  destroyed  at  Julius  Mountain.  A 
few  years  subsequently  another  attack  was  made  at  Cypress 
Mountain,  in  which  sixty  more  lodges  were  exterminated,  three 
men  only  escaping  on  this  occasion,  one  of  whom  was  the 
Sitting  Squaw,  father  of  the  one  already  mentioned.  Soon 
after  Mr.  Culbertson's  arrival  in  the  country,  he  and  four  or 
five  other  whites,  with  a  party  of  Blackfoot  Indians,  were  at- 
tacked by  a  war  party  of  Assiniboines,  numbering  some  seven 
or  eight  hundred.  The  field  was  contested  all  day,  night  only 
ending  the  conflict.  In  the  morning  the  Assiniboines  did  not 
resume  the  attack,  and  abandoned  many  of  their  dead  on  the 
field.  A  considerable  number  of  the  Blackfeet  were  also  killed, 
but  none  of  the  whites. 

August  30.  Yesterday  we  were  in  sight  of  the  Bear's  Paw, 
quite  a  broad  and  rugged  mountain  upheaval,  stretching  from 
Milk  River  to  the  Missouri.  I  sent  off  Lieutenant  Grover,  Mr. 
Lander,  and  Mr.  Stanley,  to  make  an  examination  of  the  Bear's 


360  ISAAC  JNGALLS  STEVENS 

Paw,  so  far  as  it  could  be  done  by  ascending  one  of  its  highest 
peaks,  estimated  to  be  about  seventeen  or  eighteen  miles  dis- 
tant. I  moved  on  myself  with  the  remainder  of  the  party, 
having  determined  that  I  would  no  longer  ride  in  the  ambu- 
lance, but  would  make  the  effort  to  push  forward  either  on 
horseback  or  on  foot.  After  moving  seven  or  eight  miles  I 
suffered  so  exceedingly  from  riding  that  I  walked  some  five  or 
six  miles  with  great  difficulty,  until,  coming  to  a  good  camp  on 
our  second  crossing  of  Milk  River,  and  the  point  where  we 
were  to  leave  it  on  our  way  to  Fort  Benton,  I  halted  the  party 
and  rested  for  two  hours.  This  gave  me  strength  enough  to 
mount  my  horse  and  ride  to  camp,  eighteen  miles  farther  on, 
on  a  tributary  of  the  Box  Elder  Creek.  We  crossed  several 
branches  of  this  creek,  which  is  a  tributary  of  Milk  River,  that 
has  its  source  very  near  the  Missouri  and  is  on  our  general  line 
to  Fort  Benton.  The  ascent  is  very  gradual  from  Milk  River 
to  our  camp ;  the  soil  generally  is  very  good.  The  view  this 
afternoon  was  delightful.  Bear's  Paw  itself  presents  a  rugged, 
grotesque  appearance,  and  it  requires  no  great  stretch  of  the 
imagination  to  see  in  it  the  paw  of  a  grizzly  bear,  ready  to 
spring  upon  the  plain. 

The  Three  Buttes,  or  the  Sweet  Grass  Hills,  some  sixty  miles 
to  the  northward  of  us,  are  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Blackfeet, 
who  say  that  Providence  created  these  hills  for  the  tribe  to 
ascend  and  look  out  for  buffalo.  Southward  we  have  a  view 
of  mountains  on  the  other  side  of  the  Missouri.  Our  distance 
to-day  was  twenty-nine  and  a  half  miles. 

August  31.  We  made  an  early  start  this  morning,  and  in 
twelve  miles  came  to  the  upper  waters  of  the  Box  Elder  Creek, 
which  is  a  clear,  limpid  stream,  affording  an  unfailing  supply 
of  water.  We  then  pushed  on  five  miles  over  a  fine  rolling 
prairie  to  a  coulee  in  the  hills,  where  there  was  a  spring,  and 
here  we  halted  to  dine.  This  spring  is  a  great  resort  for 
buffalo.  Considerable  water  flows  from  it,  but  the  ordure  of 
the  buffalo  was  in  such  great  quantities  about  it  that  it  infected 
the  water,  and  moreover  they  had  trampled  all  the  ground,  and 
had  stirred  up  the  water  of  the  spring  with  their  feet.  We 
however  thought  it  would  be  well  enough  for  us  to  make  coffee, 
and  we  managed  to  get  up  a  very  respectable  meal.     After  stop- 


THE  BEAR'S  PAW  361 

ping  three  hours,  we  continued  on  over  a  very  good  road.  There 
was  a  shower  of  rain  and  hail  about  four  p.  M.  At  five  the 
Missouri  was  in  sight,  the  Belt  Mountains  looming  up  beyond 
it  at  a  distance  of  not  less  than  fifty  miles.  After  a  march  of 
thirty-three  miles  from  our  morning  camp,  we  came  to  a  place 
called  the  Springs ;  here  the  water  was  dried  up,  and  there  was 
no  wood,  but  excellent  grass.  We  pitched  our  camp  in  a  coulee 
surrounded  by  high  hills,  and  went  to  work  to  dig  wells  for 
water,  in  hopes  to  procure  some  for  our  animals.  We  succeeded 
in  getting  only  a  small  quantity  for  each.  There  was  a  very 
high  wind  and  a  heavy  thunder-shower  until  near  midnight. 
Our  Indian  friends  assisted  us  very  much  in  the  night  in  look- 
ing out  for  our  animals.  Grover,  Stanley,  and  Lander  have  not 
come  in,  which  gives  me  a  good  deal  of  apprehension.  The 
Running  Fisher  told  me  a  story  to-day  illustrating  one  of  the 
phases  of  Indian  life.  The  Bear's  Paw,  as  one  would  infer 
from  its  wild  and  stern  appearance,  has  been  a  scene  of  Indian 
fight  and  massacre.  Seven  years  ago  a  fight  occurred  in  the 
Bear's  Paw  between  their  tribe,  allied  with  the  Blackfeet,  and 
the  Crows,  in  which  he  killed  one  of  the  latter.  The  Crows 
occupied  an  impregnable  post,  from  whence  they  could  shoot 
down  all  who  approached  within  twenty  paces.  A  Blackfoot 
was  shot  in  the  head  through  a  fissure  in  the  rocks.  The  Gros 
Ventres  then  determined  to  surround  and  starve  them  out;  at 
night  the  Crows  got  off  with  the  loss  of  one  man,  killed  by 
Running  Fisher. 

September  1.  This  morning  we  made  an  early  start,  and, 
crossing  over  a  high,  rolling  prairie,  in  eleven  miles  and  three 
quarters  came  to  the  Marias  River.  The  descent  to  this  river  on 
the  trail  is  somewhat  steep,  the  prairie  plateau  being  over  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  river-bottom.  The  river  itself  here 
presents  a  beautiful  view.  It  is  a  clear,  limpid  stream,  flowing 
over  a  pebbly  and  sandy  bed,  the  bottoms  lined  with  cotton- 
wood  of  heavy  growth,  with  thickets  of  the  service  and  other 
berries.  The  Belt  Mountains  are  very  distinctly  visible  in  the 
distance,  as  is  also  Citadel  Hill,  called  so  because  its  base  rests 
upon  the  Missouri,  and  it  rises  perpendicularly  like  a  bastion 
some  two  hundred  feet  high.  Near  by  is  Square  Hill,  so  called 
from  its  supposed  resemblance  to  that  geometrical  figure. 


362  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

At  our  noon  halt,  or  near  by,  was  the  scene  of  a  sanguinary 
conflict  between  the  Gros  Ventres  and  the  Crows  in  1849,  in 
which  the  latter  were  all  killed.  Several  of  those  traveling  in 
our  company  figured  in  the  action.  A  party  of  Crows  to  the 
number  of  twenty-two  were  concealed  in  the  hollow  just  in 
advance  of  where  we  dined,  for  the  purpose  of  stealing  horses 
from  the  Gros  Ventres'  camp,  consisting  of  two  hundred  lodges. 
Being  discovered,  the  Gros  Ventres  surrounded  them,  and 
threw  up  dust  in  the  air,  which  was  carried  by  a  strong  wind  in 
the  faces  of  the  Crows,  blinding  them,  when  the  Gros  Ventres 
rushed  in  upon  them,  and  killed  the  whole  number  without 
losing  a  man.     None  were  left  to  carry  home  the  news. 

We  were  off  about  noon ;  passed  over  the  prairie,  and  de- 
scended in  the  valley  of  the  Teton,  where  we  met  Mr.  Clarke, 
in  charge  of  Fort  Benton,  who  came  out  to  meet  us.  We 
arrived  at  Fort  Benton  at  3.30  o'clock,  where  we  were  received 
with  a  salute  of  fifteen  guns. 

Fort  Benton  stands  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Missouri,  near 
the  Great  Bend,  and  three  hundred  and  seventy-seven  miles 
by  the  trail  taken  by  me  above  Fort  Union.  The  river  is  here 
perfectly  transparent  at  most  seasons  of  the  year.  The  Teton 
River  empties  into  the  Missouri  six  miles  below  Fort  Benton, 
the  Marias  twelve  miles  below,  and  the  Milk  two  hundred  miles 
below.  The  falls  of  the  Missouri  are  seventy  miles  above  this 
fort.  The  muddy  character  of  the  Missouri  has  its  commence- 
ment at  the  mouth  of  Milk  River,  which  takes  its  name  from 
the  whitish  muddiness  of  its  waters.  The  ascent  from  the  wide, 
grassy  plain  in  which  the  fort  is  located  to  the  high  table-land  is 
somewhat  abrupt,  the  only  passage  on  a  level  with  the  plain 
being  close  to  the  river  on  the  south  and  very  narrow.  Fort 
Benton  is  smaller  than  Fort  Union.  Its  front  is  made  of  wood, 
and  the  other  sides  of  adobe,  or  unburned  brick.  It  usually 
contains  about  a  dozen  men,  and  the  families  of  several  of  them. 
The  Blackfoot  Indians  are  the  principal  traders  here.  It  is  the 
custom  of  the  several  bands  of  this  tribe  to  locate  in  sheltered 
and  otherwise  eligible  places  in  the  vicinity  of  wood,  water,  and 
grass  in  the  early  winter,  where  they  remain  as  inert  as  possible 
until  the  melting  of  the  snow.  At  such  times  the  half-breeds 
of  the  fort  visit  them  with  goods  upon  horses  and  mules,  and 


FORT  BENTON  363 

exchange  their  merchandise  for  the  skins  and  furs  captured  by 
the  Indians. 

Fort  Campbell  is  situated  on  the  same  plateau  with  Fort 
Benton,  about  half  a  mile  above  it,  and  is  built  in  very  much 
the  same  way  as  the  latter  place. 

I  was  agreeably  relieved  by  the  missing  gentlemen  coming 
into  the  fort  September  3.  They  were  in  fine  spirits,  although 
they  had  eaten  but  little  food  since  they  left  me  on  Milk 
River,  had  traveled  a  very  long  distance,  partly  on  foot,  and 
had  been  a  good  deal  annoyed  at  the  loss  of  so  much  time. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

WIDESPREAD    EXPLORING    PARTIES 

For  several  days  Governor  Stevens  was  busily  engaged 
in  examining  voyageurs  and  Indians  in  regard  to  the 
mountain  passes  and  the  general  character  of  the  coun- 
try. Additional  horses  were  procured,  and  arrangements 
made  for  sending  out  parties  to  explore  in  advance  and 
both  north  and  south  of  the  route.  Lieutenant  Donelson 
with  the  main  train  reached  the  fort  on  the  6th.  Dr. 
Evans  arrived  on  the  5th,  after  an  extended  trip  through 
the  Bad  Lands,  where  he  made  a  large  collection  of  geo- 
logical specimens.  The  same  day  Lieutenant  Grover  was 
sent  forward  with  a  small  party  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley, 
crossing  the  main  divide  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  for  the 
purpose  of  ascertaining  if  Lieutenant  Saxton  had  estab- 
lished his  depot  of  provisions  at  that  point.  Thence  he 
was  directed  to  forward  an  express  to  Captain  McClellan 
and  return  to  Fort  Benton. 

Lieutenant  John  Mullan,  with  a  party  of  six  men,  was 
sent  southward  to  the  Muscle  Shell  River,  not  only  to 
examine  the  country,  but  also  to  convey  to  a  band  of 
Flathead  Indians  supposed  to  be  in  that  region  "  a  mes- 
sage of  peace  and  goodwill,  to  express  my  desire  to  make 
a  permanent  peace  between  them  and  the  Blackfeet, 
and  to  build  up  anew  their  beautiful  St.  Mary's  village." 
Thence  he  was  to  cross  the  mountains  by  a  more  southerly 
pass  and  rejoin  the  main  party  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley. 

The  governor  decided  to  send  Lieutenant  Donelson 
ahead  with  a  party  of  twenty-five  men  to  examine  the 


EXPLORING  PARTIES  365 

approaches  to  Cadotte's  Pass,  the  main  train  to  follow 
more  slowly  in  charge  of  Mr.  Osgood,  and  to  dispatch 
Lander  to  examine  a  pass  at  the  head  of  the  Marias  Kiver, 
considerably  north  of  Cadotte's.  "  I  gave  Mr.  Lander," 
says  the  governor,  "  authority,  with  certain  exceptions,  to 
select  his  animals  from  my  whole  train,  deeming  it  im- 
portant that  he  should  be  exceedingly  well  fitted  out,  as 
he  would  probably  have  a  long  distance  to  make'  before 
he  joined  the  main  party  in  the  valley  of  Clark's  Fork." 
The  governor  was  exceedingly  desirous  of  taking  his 
wagons  across  the  mountains  as  the  most  striking  demon- 
stration of  the  practicability  of  the  passes. 

The  following  from  a  letter  of  George  W.  Stevens,  of 
September  10,  shows  the  high  spirits  and  fine  condition 
of  the  party :  — 

"  We  have  reached  this  point  with  our  full  number  of  scalp- 
locks,  and  now  are  preparing  to  cross  the  mountains.  Up  to 
this  point  we  have  proceeded  with  wonderful  success,  and  have 
done  what  no  American  expedition  has  done  before  us.  We 
have  not  felt  the  slightest  hardship,  but  the  journey  of  over  one 
thousand  miles  has  been  made  with  as  much  ease  and  comfort 
as  we  could  possibly  have  experienced  in  traveling  at  home 
fully  equipped.  Our  train,  of  forty  wagons  and  carts,  over  two 
hundred  animals,  and  more  than  one  hundred  men,  has  safely 
arrived.  Not  a  man  has  died  (except  one  who  accidentally  shot 
himself),  nor  has  there  been  a  single  case  of  serious  illness. 
Not  more  than  a  dozen  or  fifteen  animals  have  been  lost,  and  as 
a  general  thing  they  are  now  in  as  good  condition  as  when  we 
left  the  Mississippi.  We  are  now  eighty  miles  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  On  Monday  we  leave  with  a  train  of  twelve 
wagons,  with  which  we  hope  to  make  a  comfortable  crossing  of 
the  mountains  in  twenty  days.  Yesterday  the  fort  was  the 
scene  of  the  greatest  confusion,  growing  out  of  the  preparations 
making  to  fit  out  four  'war  parties,'  as  we  term  them.  The 
first,  under  Mr.  Lander,  explores  the  Marias  Pass,  the  most 
northern  and  nearly  in  the  latitude  of  the  boundary  line.  The 
second,  under  Lieutenant  Mullan,  goes  to  the  Muscle  Shell.    The 


366  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

third  war  party  is  under  the  direction  of  Lieutenant  Donelson, 
and  is  to  survey  the  approaches  to  Cadotte's  Pass,  the  one 
which  will  be  taken  by  the  main  train.  A  fourth  war  party 
is  the  major's  own  to  a  camp  of  Piegan  Indians.  Lieutenant 
Grover  is  already  in  the  mountains.  The  major's  health  is  ex- 
cellent, and  though  the  labor  is  enormous,  he  is  the  only  man 
who  could  have  carried  the  expedition  through  in  so  glorious  a 
manner.  If  he  succeeds  in  getting  the  wagons  through,  he  will 
have  opened  a  good  emigrant  road  from  the  Mississippi  to  the 
Pacific,  and  you  may  be  sure  the  attempt  will  be  most  vigor- 
ously made.  If  fortune  continues  with  us,  within  two  months 
we  shall  reach  Puget  Sound,  that  looked-for  garden-spot.  We 
have  met  the  Assiniboine  and  Gros  Ventre  bands  of  Indians, 
and  by  both  were  hospitably  received.  Upon  the  Sheyenne 
River  we  first  came  upon  buffalo,  and  from  that  point  until  a 
week's  journey  back  we  have  met  them  in  the  greatest  abun- 
dance. Buffalo  meat  has,  therefore,  been  our  principal  article 
of  food,  and  we  ask  nothing  better." 

A  very  serious  difficulty  of  another  kind  now  con- 
fronted Governor  Stevens.  He  found  that  the  funds  al- 
lotted to  his  exploration  would  not  suffice  to  carry  on  the 
work  so  far  and  so  thoroughly  as  he  deemed  necessary, 
and  he  was  forced  to  the  alternative  of  cutting  it  short 
or  incurring  a  deficiency.  He  decided  to  continue  the 
work,  notwithstanding  the  great  pecuniary  risk  to  him- 
self, and  the  risk,  too,  of  incurring  the  serious  displeasure 
of  the  government :  — 

"  I  very  frankly  and  explicitly  stated  that  to  continue  the 
survey,  and  to  carry  out  the  instructions  with  regard  to  the 
work  to  be  accomplished,  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  incur  a 
deficiency:  believing  that,  if  the  facts  as  they  existed  were  known 
to  Congress  and  the  department,  their  instructions  would  be  for 
me  to  continue  the  exploration,  I  determined  to  incur  the  defi- 
ciency and  make  the  survey.  My  instructions  required  me  to 
examine  into  the  question  of  the  snows  on  the  route,  into  the 
freshets  of  the  streams,  and  the  period  of  time  they  were  locked 
up  by  the  ice,  to  do  which  it  was  indispensable  that  there 


TAKES  THE  RESPONSIBILITY  367 

should  be  winter  posts  established  at  Fort  Benton,  and  in  the 
Bitter  Eoot  valley;  and  it  was  desirable,  in  connection  with 
these  posts,  to  have  such  arrangements  made,  and  such  facilities 
afforded,  as  would  enable  the  gentlemen  in  charge  of  them 
to  continue  the  explorations  of  the  passes  and  the  adjacent 
country." 

In  a  letter  to  Professor  Bache  the  governor  gives  the 
reasons  for  his  incurring  the  deficiency,  which  were, 
briefly  stated,  the  delay  in  the  start,  owing  to  the  young 
and  unbroken  animals  furnished  by  the  quartermaster's 
department,  notwithstanding  that  the  governor  had  sent 
an  agent  especially  to  St.  Louis  to  insure  the  securing  of 
seasoned  and  broken  animals,  and  to  the  unusually  late 
and  rainy  season ;  the  distance  across  the  continent,  which 
turned  out  to  be  greater  than  the  best  estimates  previ- 
ously obtainable  ;  the  fact  that  in  consequence  of  the 
great  number  of  Indians  on  the  route,  and  the  warlike 
and  treacherous  character  of  some  of  them,  particularly 
the  Sioux  and  Blackfeet,  it  was  necessary  to  make  the 
expedition  strong,  especially  in  guides,  interpreters,  and 
hunters ;  and  that  to  carry  out  the  instructions  and 
objects  of  the  exploration  it  was  indispensable  to  make 
extended  examinations,  and  to  leave  parties  to  continue 
the  work  throughout  the  winter,  in  order  to  determine 
the  questions  of  snow  and  climate. 

It  is  perfectly  apparent  that  the  $40,000  allotted  to 
the  Northern  route,  even  though  eked  out  by  the  details 
and  supplies  furnished  by  the  War  Department,  were 
altogether  inadequate  to  the  task  intrusted  to  Governor 
Stevens.  His  management  was  marked  by  strict  economy 
and  good  judgment ;  he  was  simply  not  given  sufficient 
funds  for  the  work.  And  it  is  most  creditable  alike  to 
his  judgment  and  moral  courage  that  he  shouldered  the 
responsibility  of  the  deficiency,  and  made  his  complete 
and  exhaustive  exploration. 


368  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Having  completed  all  these  arrangements,  made  his 
reports  to  the  War  and  Indian  departments,  and  started 
off  the  several  detached  parties,  the  governor  decided  to 
visit  personally  the  main  camp  of  the  Blackfeet,  near 
the  Cypress  Mountain,  about  one  hundred  miles  north 
of  Fort  Benton,  and  just  above  the  49th  parallel,  in 
order  to  confer  with  their  chiefs  in  regard  to  the  contem- 
plated council  at  Fort  Benton  next  year,  and  secure 
guides  for  the  survey  of  the  Marias  Pass.  He  desired, 
also,  personally  to  examine  the  approaches  to  the  several 
passes  of  the  mountains  from  the  boundary  southward, 
expecting  to  overtake  the  main  party  before  it  reached 
the  Bitter  Root  valley.     Says  he  in  the  final  report :  — 

I  gave  my  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Donelson  on  the  9th 
instant,  inspected  the  train,  found  everything  in  good  order, 
the  men  cheerful,  satisfied,  and  confident  as  to  going  on,  and 
the  means  of  transportation  ample,  and  set  off  towards  night, 
having  been  preceded  a  few  hours  by  Mr.  Lander,  on  the  way 
to  Cypress  Mountain.  I  encamped  that  night  on  the  Teton, 
fourteen  miles  from  Fort  Benton.  Besides  the  party  of  Mr. 
Lander,  I  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  Culbertson,  special  agent ; 
Mr.  Stanley,  artist ;  Augustus  Hammell,  interpreter ;  and  three 
voyageurs. 

September  10.  We  had  been  joined  last  evening  by  a  con- 
siderable party  of  the  Blackfeet,  who  accompanied  us  to-day, 
the  principal  men  being  the  Little  Dog,  the  Three  Bears,  and 
the  Wolf  that  Climbs.  Started  before  seven,  and  after  trav- 
eling three  hours  reached  a  fine  spring,  with  excellent  grass, 
at  a  celebrated  landmark  known  by  the  name  of  the  Rotten 
Belly  Rocks.  It  is  a  formation  of  sandstone,  and  has  the  char- 
acteristic of  Les  Mauvaises  Terres.  Columns  with  capitals,  re- 
semblances to  the  human  figure,  etc.,  etc.,  abound.  Beneath, 
in  the  coulee,  passes  the  broad  Indian  trail  leading  to  the 
Piegan  camp.  Here  was  killed  Rotten  Belly,  the  Crow  chief, 
in  an  encounter  between  one  hundred  of  his  braves  and  eleven 
well-armed  Gros  Ventres  of  the  prairie.  This  celebrated  chief, 
urged   on    by   his   people,   had   previously   beleaguered    Fort 


INDIAN  FIGHTS  369 

McKenzie.  He  captured  all  the  animals  of  the  fort,  —  thirty- 
five  horses.  The  place  was  in  charge  of  Mr.  Culbertson,  and 
there  were  but  nineteen  men  to  defend  it.  For  a  month  this 
little  force  baffled  all  the  attempts  of  the  Crows  to  get  posses- 
sion of  the  fort.  Being,  however,  in  a  starving  condition,  and 
it  being  apparent  that  it  could  not  hold  out  much  longer,  resort 
was  had  to  stratagem.  All  the  squaws,  twenty-nine  in  number, 
were  dressed  in  men's  clothes,  and  with  arms  in  their  hands 
were  distributed  around  the  fort  in  sight  of  the  Crows,  who, 
thus  deceived  in  reference  to  the  force  defending  the  place, 
became  disheartened,  drew  off,  and  separated.  Rotten  Belly, 
with  a  portion,  mortified  at  his  failure,  declared  that  he  would 
go  north  and  seek  death  in  battle.  On  reaching  the  rocks,  and 
seeing  the  Gros  Ventres,  he  said :  "  Here  I  will  die  to-day ;  you 
have  brought  me  to  this !  "  And,  rushing  upon  his  enemies,  he 
killed  two,  and  then  received  his  death  wound.  Before  his 
death  he  advised  his  people  to  be  the  friends  of  the  whites,  say- 
ing it  was  their  only  chance  to  escape  defeat  and  utter  ruin. 

Kept  on  through  the  afternoon,  passing  over  a  rolling  coun- 
try, and  reached  the  Marias  about  half  past  four  o'clock, 
where  we  camped.  This  stream  at  our  crossing  was  about  fifty 
yards  wide,  one  foot  deep,  and  of  somewhat  rapid  current,  and 
the  river  valley  was  about  a  mile  wide.  There  was  plenty  of 
Cottonwood,  and  we  had  a  most  excellent  camp.  Spent  the 
evening  in  conversing  with  the  Indians  who  accompanied  us. 

September  11.  We  were  off  about  seven  o'clock,  and  after 
traveling  until  near  noon  halted  at  a  spring,  where  we  procured 
a  small  supply  of  water.  Continuing  on  without  unsaddling,  in 
less  than  an  hour  I  was  overtaken  by  Baptiste  Champagne  with 
an  express  from  Lieutenant  Donelson,  inclosing  a  brief  report 
from  Lieutenant  Grover,  to  the  effect  that  he  met  Lieutenant 
Saxton  near  the  dividing  ridge,  and  that  they  were  returning 
together  to  Fort  Benton.  Lieutenant  Grover  intimated  in  his 
brief  letter  that  Lieutenant  Saxton  reported  the  route  could  not 
be  traversed  by  wagons.  This  changed  the  aspect  of  affairs,  and 
I  determined  to  send  Mr.  Stanley  to  the-  Piegan  camp  with  the 
interpreter  Hammell,  and  to  return  immediately  with  Mr.  Cul- 
bertson to  Fort  Benton.  I  determined,  also,  to  defer  the  exam- 
ination of  the  Marias  Pass  to  another  season.  There  was  not 
that  harmony  in  Mr.  Lander's  party  which  I  deemed  indispen- 


370  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

sable  to  making  the  examination  which  I  had  intrusted  to  him. 
Accordingly  I  ordered  him  to  return  with  me.  Stanley  con- 
tinued on  to  the  Piegan  camp,  and  I  started  back  on  my  way  to 
Fort  Benton.  It  made  a  long  march  for  us,  for  to  get  a  good 
camp  it  was  necessary  to  reach  the  Marias.  Our  Indian  guide 
made  his  way  pretty  directly  to  the  camp :  one  hour  and  a  half 
we  traveled  in  the  dark.  The  descent  to  the  river  was  steep 
and  difficult.  We  succeeded  in  getting  into  a  good  camp  about 
eight  o'clock.  Before  starting  on  my  return,  I  dispatched  an 
express  to  Lieutenant  Donelson  to  push  on  with  his  advanced 
party,  but  to  keep  the  main  train  till  my  arrival. 

September  12.  Started  early,  and,  pushing  rapidly,  reached 
the  fort  by  three  o'clock. 

Lieutenants  Saxton  and  Grover  also  reached  Fort  Benton 
the  same  day.  The  former  successfully  led  the  western  sub- 
sidiary party  by  way  of  Pend  Oreille  Lake  to  the  Bitter  Root 
valley,  from  which  point  Lieutenant  R.  Macfeely,  with  twenty- 
six  men  and  sixty  animals,  no  longer  needed,  returned  to  the 
Dalles,  crossing  the  Bitter  Roots  by  the  southern  Nez  Perces  trail, 
a  more  direct  but  vastly  more  difficult  route  than  that  of  the 
lake.  Lieutenant  Richard  Arnold,  with  his  brother,  Mr.  Daniel 
Lyman  Arnold,  and  four  men,  remained  with  the  supplies  at 
Fort  Owen  in  the  valley ;  while  Lieutenant  Saxton,  with  seven- 
teen men,  pushed  on  across  the  mountains,  and  was  met  by 
Lieutenant  Grover  at  the  summit  on  September  8  ;  and,  as  the 
governor  remarks,  "  He  felt  rejoiced  that  the  plan  of  our  opera- 
tions had  been  successful  and  the  object  of  the  expedition 
accomplished,  as  a  party  from  the  Atlantic  and  one  from  the 
Pacific,  each  in  search  of  the  other,  had  met  by  appointment, 
after  traversing  thousands  of  miles  of  unknown  country,  at  the 
foot  of  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  oceans." 

The  same  evening  Mr.  Tinkham  arrived,  after  an  exten- 
sive and  successful  trip  of  exploration  up  the  Milk  River 
to  the  Three  Buttes,  across  country  to  Marias  River,  and 
thence  to  Fort  Benton. 

In  consequence  of  Lieutenant  Saxton's  positive  repre- 
sentation that  it  was  impracticable  to  take  the  wagons 
across  the  mountains,  Governor  Stevens  reluctantly  de- 


WIDESPREAD  EXPLORING  PARTIES  371 

cided  to  leave  them  at  Fort  Benton,  a  decision  he  after- 
wards regretted,  for  after  traversing  the  route  he  was 
satisfied  that  he  could  have  taken  them  at  least  across  the 
main  range  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley  without  difficulty. 
The  whole  train  was  now  outfitted  with  pack  animals,  and 
was  pushed  forward  on  the  16th  under  Lieutenant  Donel- 
son.  Lieutenant  Saxton,  with  all  but  three  of  the  dragoon 
detachment  and  some  discharged  men,  and  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Culbertson,  making  a  party  of  twenty-eight  all 
told,  was  sent  down  the  Missouri  by  keelboat  with  instruc- 
tions to  examine  the  river,  especially  as  to  the  navigabil- 
ity for  steamboats  of  its  upper  waters,  disband  his  party 
at  Fort  Leavenworth  or  St.  Louis,  thence  proceed  to 
Washington,  and  make  a  full  report,  in  which  he  was  to 
urge  the  necessity  of  holding  the  proposed  Blackfoot 
council,  and  of  continuing  the  surveys  of  the  mountain 
section  of  the  route.  The  governor  also  instructed  him 
to  advise  with  Professor  Bache  in  relation  to  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  survey,  and  to  providing  for  the  defi- 
ciency, necessarily  incurred,  in  the  next  deficiency  bill ; 
giving  him  letters  to  the  professor,  and  to  Judge  Stephen 
A.  Douglas,  Hannibal  Hamlin,  Dr.  Gwin,  H.  M.  Rice, 
then  delegate  from  Minnesota,  and  other  prominent  sena- 
tors and  members  of  Congress.  Mr.  Culbertson  carried 
the  governor's  reports  to  the  Indian  Department,  and  was 
charged  also  to  urge  upon  that  department  the  impor- 
tance of  the  council. 

Mr.  Doty,  with  three  men,  was  stationed  at  Fort  Ben- 
ton for  the  winter  to  make  meteorological  observations, 
and  such  examinations  of  the  country  as  he  could,  and 
more  especially  to  collect  information  about,  and  take  a 
census  of,  the  Blackfeet,  and  improve  every  opportunity 
to  impress  upon  them  the  benefits  of  the  proposed  coun- 
cil and  peace  with  the  western  Indians.  As  already 
stated,  Lieutenant  Grover  was  directed  to  examine  the 


372  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Missouri  for  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  below  the  fort, 
and  the  country  between  it  and  Milk  River,  and  after- 
wards to  cross  the  mountains  in  midwinter  with  dog- 
sledges,  and  study  the  depth  of  snow  and  winter  climate. 
Lander,  with  a  detached  party,  was  directed  to  examine 
along  the  base  of  the  mountains  from  the  Marias  Pass  to 
Cadotte's  Pass.  As  already  stated,  the  governor  had 
countermanded  the  survey  of  the  former  by  Lander  in 
consequence  of  the  lack  of  harmony  in  that  engineer's 
party.  After  leaving  Fort  Union,  Lander  developed  a 
fractious,  almost  insubordinate  disposition.  He  chafed  at 
the  presence  and  authority  of  the  army  officers.  At  Fort 
Benton  Governor  Stevens  had  to  curb  his  insubordinate 
spirit  with  some  severity,  and  even  told  him  that  he  would 
shoot  him  down  like  a  dog  if  he  disobeyed  his  orders. 
Lander,  realizing  that  Governor  Stevens  would  enforce 
discipline  at  whatever  cost,  yielded,  professing  his  readi- 
ness to  obey  instructions,  but  thereafter  he  did  so  accord- 
ing to  the  letter,  not  the  spirit.  Yet  the  governor,  both 
before  and  after  this  occurrence,  gave  him  the  best  op- 
portunities for  distinction,  intrusting  to  him  the  most 
important  side  explorations,  and  in  the  reports  gave  him 
full  and  generous  commendation  for  all  he  accomplished, 
passing  lightly  over  his  shortcomings.  A  bold,  energetic, 
high-strung  man,  Lander  could  ill  brook  any  authority. 
He  afterwards  conducted  an  independent  government 
survey  with  credit,  and  but  for  his  early  death  would 
undoubtedly  have  achieved  distinction  as  a  soldier. 
This  appears  to  have  been  the  only  instance  of  lack  of 
due  subordination,  or  harmony,  shown  during  the  whole 
expedition,  and  certainly  some  of  the  governor's  orders 
had  been  rigorous  enough  to  cause  restiveness,  as,  for 
instance,  requiring  the  scientific  gentlemen  to  break  their 
own  mules,  to  stand  guard,  and  to  walk  a  part  of  each 
day's  march.     Remarks  the  governor  :  — 


WIDESPREAD  EXPLORING  PARTIES  373 

"  I  was  exceedingly  gratified  at  this  time  by  the  spirit  of  the 
men.  Several  men,  who  I  was  afraid  had  not  strength  to 
make  the  trip,  and  whom  I  had  ordered  to  accompany  Lieu- 
tenant Saxton  down  the  Missouri,  were  so  anxious  to  go  on  that 
they  brought  me  a  certificate  from  the  surgeon,  Dr.  Suckley, 
stating  that  in  his  opinion  they  were  strong  enough  for  the 
journey,  and  accordingly  I  allowed  them  to  go  on.  We  had 
now  been  together  some  three  months,  and  there  was  great 
confidence  between  the  several  members  of  the  exploration." 

On  the  20th  Mr.  Stanley  returned  from  his  trip  to  the 
Blackfoot  camp,  having  traveled  on  horseback  three  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles  in  eleven  days.  A  thousand  In- 
dians accompanied  him  back  as  far  as  Milk  Kiver,  where 
the  main  body  remained  to  hunt,  while  thirty  of  their 
chiefs,  with  their  families,  came  with  him  to  Fort  Benton 
to  hold  council  with  the  great  white  chief,  who  remained 
for  that  purpose. 

"On  the  21st  we  held  our  talk  with  the  Blackfeet.  The 
chiefs  and  warriors  were  all  richly  caparisoned.  Their  dresses 
of  softly  prepared  skins  of  deer,  elk,  or  antelope  were  elegantly 
ornamented  with  bead-work.  These  are  made  by  their  women, 
and  some  must  have  occupied  many  months  in  making.  The 
other  articles  of  their  costume  were  leggings  made  of  buffalo 
skins,  and  moccasins,  also  embroidered,  and  a  breech-cloth  of 
blue  cloth.  Their  arms  were  the  Northwest  guns,  and  bows  and 
arrows.  On  all  solemn  occasions,  when  I  met  the  Indians  on 
my  route,  they  were  arrayed  with  the  utmost  care.  My  duties 
in  the  field  did  not  allow  the  same  attention  on  my  part,  and  the 
Indians  sometimes  complained  of  this,  saying,  '  We  dress  up  to 
receive  you,  and  why  do  you  not  wear  the  dress  of  a  chief  ?  " 

"  The  governor  addressed  them  in  the  same  strain  as  the  Gros 
Ventres  :  '  Your  Great  Father  has  sent  me  to  bear  a  message 
to  you  and  all  his  other  children.  It  is  that  he  wishes  you  to 
live  at  peace  with  each  other  and  the  whites.  He  desires  that 
you  should  be  under  his  protection,  and  partake  equally  with 
the  Crows  and  Assiniboines  of  his  bounty.  Live  in  peace  with 
all  the  neighboring  tribes,  protect  all  the  whites  passing  through 
your  country,  and  the  Great  Father  will  be  your  fast  friend.'  " 


374  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Low  Horn,  the  principal  Piegan  chief,  replied  favor- 
ably in  behalf  of  the  Indians,  but  spoke  of  the  difficulty 
of  restraining  their  young  men,  who  were  wild,  and 
ambitious  in  their  turn  to  be  braves  and  chiefs.  They 
wanted  by  some  act  to  win  the  favor  of  their  young 
women,  and  bring  scalps  and  horses  to  show  their  prowess. 
To  this  the  governor  rejoined :  — 

"  *  Why  is  it  that  you  have  two  or  three  women  to  one  man  ? 
Is  it  not  because  your  young  men  go  out  on  war  parties,  and 
thus  the  flower  of  your  tribe  is  cut  down  ?  And  you  will  go  on 
diminishing  every  year  until  your  tribes  are  extinct.  Is  it  not 
better  that  your  young  men  should  have  wives  and  children, 
and  that  your  numbers  should  increase  ?  Won't  your  women 
prefer  husbands  to  scalps  and  horses?  The  Gros  Ventres 
desire  to  meet  you  in  council,  and  have  the  difficulties  between 
you  arranged.     Will  you  meet  them  in  council  ?  ' 

"  While  in  the  council,  Low  Horn,  the  principal  chief  and 
speaker,  made  all  his  replies  without  rising  from  his  seat,  and  in 
a  quiet,  conversational  tone.  After  the  council  he  assembled 
his  braves,  and  resumed  the  lofty  bearing  of  a  chief.  He  ad- 
dressed them  with  great  fervor  and  eloquence,  commanded  them 
henceforth  to  cease  sending  out  war  parties,  and  threatened 
them  with  severe  punishment  if  they  disobeyed.  It  will  not  be 
uninteresting  here  to  state  that  Low  Horn,  the  quiet  spokes- 
man of  the  council  and  the  trumpet-toned  chief  in  the  presence 
of  his  men,  crossed  the  Missouri  in  1855  with  his  whole  band, 
moved  up  the  Judith,  and  camped  on  the  Muscle  Shell,  — the 
first  man  who  extended  the  hand  of  welcome  and  friendship  to 
the  western  Indians  as  they  crossed  the  mountains  on  their  way 
to  the  council,  showing  most  conclusively  that  faith  can  be  put 
in  Indians ;  for  it  must  be  remembered  that  two  years  inter- 
vened between  my  conference  with  the  Indians  at  Fort  Benton 
in  1853  and  their  reassembling  in  1855  at  the  council  appointed 
at  that  time." 


/ 


/  f  P 


■a.  o bj  h&*n. 


{0(M^^..'  tivt£f< 


LOW   HORN 
Piegau  Chief 


CHAPTER  XX 

EXPLOEESTG   THE   ROOKY   MOUNTAINS 

September  22.  This  morning  we  bade  adieu  to  Fort  Ben- 
ton, and  separated  from  the  portions  of  the  expedition  who  were 
assigned  to  duty  east  of  the  mountains.  Before  sunrise  we  saw 
Lieutenant  Saxton  off  in  his  keelboat,  drawing  eighteen  inches 
of  water,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Culbertson,  who  was  directed  by 
me  to  report  to  the  department  at  Washington,  and  to  urge  the 
importance  of  the  Blackfoot  council.  Lieutenant  Grover,  on  a 
smaller  craft,  commenced  his  minute  examination  of  the  Mis- 
souri. Mr.  Doty,  who  had  won  very  much  upon  me  by  his  intel- 
ligence, his  fidelity,  his  promptitude,  and  energy  of  character, 
parted  from  me  with  feelings  of  hope  and  pride  at  the  idea  that 
now  a  field  was  opening  to  him  where  he  could  be  useful  to  his 
country,  and  make  a  reputation  for  himself. 

In  order  to  make  a  long  march  this  day,  the  evening  before 
I  dispatched  my  train  to  a  point  well  up  on  the  Teton,  some 
twelve  miles  from  Fort  Benton ;  and  there  Mr.  Osgood  and 
Mr.  Stanley,  who  had  remained  behind  with  me  at  Fort  Benton, 
and  myself,  breakfasted  with  the  rest  of  our  party.  Dr.  Suckley 
and  Messrs.  Evans  and  Kendall,  who  had  assisted  me  in  my 
correspondence,  were  the  additional  members  of  my  party. 

The  whole  party  moved  off  at  nine  o'clock,  continuing  for 
some  distance  up  the  valley  of  the  Teton,  when  we  ascended  a 
hill  to  the  prairie,  and  in  twenty-one  miles  reached  a  coulee, 
where  there  were  springs  of  water  sufficient  for  our  animals. 
Large  bands  of  antelopes  were  seen  on  the  road.  We  struck 
the  Prairie  Lake  at  five  P.  M.  Our  guide,  the  voyageur  Baptiste 
Champagne,  took  us  to  the  nearest  point  of  Sun  River,  hoping 
to  get  in  before  dark,  but  we  did  not  reach  camp  till  some  time 
after.  The  view  at  almost  any  point  of  the  plateau  between  the 
Teton  and  Sun  rivers  is  exceedingly  picturesque  and  suggestive. 
The  various  minor  upheavals  and  swales  of  ground,  which  here 


376  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  there  dot  the  surface  of  the  country,  have  connected  with 
them  some  story  of  Indian  war,  wrong,  or  suffering.  This  whole 
country  was  once  occupied  by  the  Snakes,  and  in  later  times 
by  some  of  the  tribes  of  the  Flathead  nation.  It  belongs  now 
to  the  Blackfeet  by  conquest. 

September  23.  Moved  up  the  valley  of  the  Sun  River,  hav- 
ing made  an  early  start  this  morning.  The  Sun  has  a  wide, 
open  valley,  grazing  exceedingly  good  and  soil  excellent.  We 
continued  up  in  the  direction  of  the  pass  between  the  Crown 
Butte  and  the  Rattlers,  prominent  landmarks  west  of  the  river, 
and  visible  at  a  great  distance.  This  is  a  favorite  resort  of 
deer,  antelope,  and  bighorn.  They  were  present  to-day  in  very 
large  numbers.  Continuing  on,  we  came  in  view  of  the  Bird 
Tail  Rock,  and  immediately  to  the  west,  in  a  line  near  it,  is 
another  landmark,  known  as  the  Piegan's  Tear.  After  making 
forty  miles  we  found  a  camp  a  little  off  our  route,  in  a  most 
delightful  valley,  a  spring  of  water  gushing  out  near  by,  and 
the  remains  of  an  old  camp  of  the  Blackfeet  at  hand,  furnishing 
us  with  fuel  already  prepared  to  our  hands. 

September  24.  Started  as  usual  very  early  this  morning, 
and  in  four  miles  came  to  Beaver  Creek,  a  very  beautiful  stream 
of  water.  The  stream  is  now  full  of  beaver,  and  is  much  ob- 
structed by  their  dams.  The  country  is  somewhat  more  broken 
to-day  than  it  was  yesterday ;  timber  comes  in  view  on  the  tops 
of  the  mountains,  and  the  scenery  becomes  more  grand  with 
each  mile  as  we  proceed.  Three  miles  beyond  Beaver  Creek,  a 
high  peak,  called  the  Goose's  Neck,  comes  in  view  to  the  south 
of  us ;  at  the  southern  foot  of  which  equally  as  good  a  road 
is  found,  though  some  two  days  longer,  as  the  one  now  being 
traveled  by  us.  It  is  a  branch  of  the  present  trail,  and  is  usu- 
ally pursued  by  the  Flatheads  on  their  way  to  buffalo.  That  is 
called  the  Flathead  and  our  own  the  Blackfoot  trail. 

We  now  crossed  several  mountain  streams  in  the  course  of 
a  few  miles,  and  in  sixteen  miles  we  struck  the  Dearborn  River. 
At  noon  we  moved  forward  to  the  dividing  ridge,  which  was 
reached  at  four  o'clock.  To  this  point  our  road  from  near  the 
Dearborn  lay  over  sideling  hills  and  through  timber.  As  we 
ascended  the  divide,  a  severe  pelting  hail  and  rain  storm,  ac- 
companied with  high  wind,  thunder,  and  lightning,  suddenly 


THE  SUMMIT  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  377 

came  upon  us,  and  did  not  abate  until  we  had  reached  the  sum- 
mit. The  wind  blew  very  violently,  and  the  mist  resulting  from 
the  storm  prevented  our  getting  a  very  clear  view  of  the  coun- 
try before  us.  It  was  with  great  gratification  that  we  now  left 
the  plains  of  the  Missouri  to  enter  upon  the  country  watered 
by  the  Columbia ;  and  it  was  the  more  especially  gratifying  to 
me  as,  looking  to  my  future  duties  in  the  Territory,  I  felt  that 
I  could  welcome  to  my  future  home  and  the  scene  of  my  future 
labors  the  gentlemen  of  the  party,  which  I  did  very  cordially 
and  heartily.  The  scenery  throughout  the  day's  march,  up  to 
the  divide,  has  been  picturesque  in  the  extreme ;  and  the  latter 
portion  of  it,  from  the  entrance  proper  to  the  pass,  our  road 
passed  between  hills  on  every  side  covered  with  timber,  on 
the  sides  of  which  we  were  constantly  traveling;  while  many 
feet  below  are  to  be  seen  the  small  upper  tributaries  of  the 
Missouri,  flowing  from  their  source  in  a  valley  that  is  very 
wide  for  so  small  a  channel,  and  lined  with  verdure  and  the 
foliage  in  yellow  leaf.  All  this  made  a  combination  full  of 
interest  to  the  eye  of  one  who  could  appreciate  the  beauties  of 
nature. 

The  ascent  from  the  eastern  base  by  the  Indian  trail  is 
somewhat  steep,  though  in  1855  I  gained  the  summit  by  a  large, 
wide,  open  ravine  north  of  the  Indian  trail  by  a  very  gradual 
ascent,  and  without  much  increase  of  distance ;  I  was  a  good 
deal  surprised  to  find  how  small  an  obstacle  this  divide  was  to 
the  movement  of  a  wagon-train.  Had  we  gone  on  with  our 
wagons,  there  would  not  have  been  the  slightest  interruption, 
up  to  the  entrance  of  the  pass,  to  making  the  usual  journeys 
each  day. 

We  were  twenty  minutes  simply  descending  on  the  western 
side,  which  was  somewhat  more  steep  than  the  eastern.  Con- 
tinuing on,  we  followed  the  valley  of  the  Blackfoot  River  some 
ten  miles,  and  camped  in  good  grass,  with  excellent  water  and 
abundance  of  wood.  Shortly  after  getting  into  camp  it  com- 
menced raining,  and  continued  steadily  all  night,  the  weather 
being  raw  and  cold. 

Immediately  on  crossing  the  divide,  on  the  summit  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  Governor  Stevens  issued  his  procla- 
mation, declaring  the  civil  territorial  government  extended 


378  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  inaugurated  over  the  new  Territory  of  Washington. 
And  then,  as  related  in  the  narrative,  he  heartily  welcomed 
the  members  of  the  party  to  his  new  home. 

It  was  on  the  summit  of  Cadotte's  Pass  that  this  dra- 
matic and  interesting  scene  occurred.  As  originally  out- 
lined, the  main  divide  of  the  Kocky  Mountains  formed 
the  eastern  boundary  of  Washington,  but  subsequently 
the  mountain  section  was  joined  to  Idaho  and  Mon- 
tana. 

September  25.  Raining  hard  this  morning.  The  animals 
having  strayed  some  distance,  we  were  detained  until  eight  a.  m. 
The  first  fourteen  miles  was  through  an  open,  wide,  and  beau- 
tiful prairie,  after  which  much  of  our  way  was  through  wood, 
where  fallen  timber  offered  serious  impediment  to  our  rapid 
progress.  At  one  o'clock  Stanley  and  myself,  having  gone 
rapidly  ahead,  had  a  big  fire  built  to  receive  our  party  as  they 
came  up.  Here  we  lunched.  By  three  o'clock  the  clouds  were 
breaking  away,  and  the  rain  had  ceased.  Crossed  several  hills 
to-day,  traveling  on  the  sides  of  some  of  them.  Just  before  we 
came  out  on  the  prairie  on  which  we  found  Lieutenant  Donel- 
son  and  the  main  train  encamped,  we  were  three  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river.  On  the  sides  of  the  hill  below  us 
was  growing  the  mountain  pine ;  in  the  valley  beneath,  right  at 
the  base  of  this  hill,  was  the  clear,  rapid  stream ;  beyond  was 
the  foliage  of  the  trees  growing  in  the  bottom.  The  tops  looked 
like  a  rich,  green  carpet;  further  on  were  wide  prairies,  all 
bounded  by  a  high  ridge  of  beautiful  hills,  altogether  forming 
a  scene  of  surpassing  beauty.  At  five  P.  M.  we  reached  Lieu- 
tenant Donelson's  camp,  and  found  we  had  traveled  one  hundred 
and  forty-four  miles  since  leaving  Fort  Benton. 

September  26.  The  gentlemen  not  required  by  my  rapid 
trip  to  the  westward,  namely,  Dr.  Suckley,  Mr.  Evans,  and  Mr. 
Kendall,  now  joined  the  main  party,  and  we  pushed  on  over  the 
Blackfoot  prairie  (called,  in  Lewis  and  Clark's  narrative,  the 
Prairie  of  the  Knobs),  and  after  a  march  of  thirty-odd  miles 
came  to  a  beautiful  camp,  near  what  is  known  in  the  country  as 
the  canon.  To  show  the  condition  of  the  animals  of  the  expe- 
dition, I  will  observe  that  as  I  passed  by  the  mules  of  the  train 


HELL  GATE  379 

(for  I  remained  somewhat  late  in  camp  this  morning  to  confer 
with  Lieutenant  Donelson,  the  whole  party  being  several  miles 
on  the  march  before  I  started),  I  observed  that  their  rate  of 
travel  on  a  fast  walk  was  from  four  to  four  and  a  half  miles  per 
hour,  and  the  advance  of  the  train  moved  thirty  miles  that 
day,  getting  into  camp  early,  the  animals  being  apparently  not 
fatigued.  We  had  hardly  made  up  our  camp-fire,  when  seeing 
a  black  bear  and  two  cubs  near  by,  we  felt  sure  that  we  should 
have  bear-meat  for  supper,  but  although  all  the  voyageurs  were 
on  their  track,  they  made  their  escape. 

September  27.  We  started  about  seven  o'clock,  and  soon 
entered  the  canon,  not,  properly  speaking,  a  canon,  for  through- 
out its  extent,  until  you  reach  the  debouch  of  Hell  Gate,  there 
is  no  special  difficulty  on  the  trail,  nor  would  there  be  excessive 
work  to  open  a  good  wagon-road.  But  a  good  many  sharp 
spurs  come  down  close  to  the  river,  throwing  the  trail  well 
back,  or  involving  a  crossing  of  the  stream  to  avail  one's  self 
of  the  prairies  invariably  found  opposite  each  of  these  spurs. 
Much  of  the  country  was  of  a  very  excellent  description,  abound- 
ing in  timber,  well  watered,  and  with  soil  of  an  excellent 
quality.  Emerging  from  the  canon,  we  came  into  a  wide,  open 
valley,  commencing  half  a  mile  before  reaching  the  mouth  of 
the  Blackfoot,  continuing  down  the  valley  of  the  Hell  Gate 
until  we  enter  the  Hell  Gate  Ronde,  a  large,  extensive  tract  of 
many  miles  in  circuit,  and  where  the  Hell  Gate  joins  its  waters 
to  the  Bitter  Root.  Crossing  the  Bitter  Root  at  a  good  ford,  we 
continued  up  its  valley  and  reached  a  most  excellent  camp  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Bitter  Root,  some  twenty  miles  from  Fort 
Owen.1 

September  28.  Keeping  up  the  west  bank  of  the  Bitter  Root 
River  we  crossed  two  streams,  one  being  the  Traveler's  Rest 
Creek  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  and,  passing  through  a  grove  of  pine 
timber,  in  twelve  and  one  half  miles  crossed  the  Bitter  Root 
River,  just  before  reaching  which  we  met  some  Indians  from 
Fort  Owen.     Lieutenant  Arnold,  whom  we  met  after  crossing 

1  The  town  of  Missoula  is  seated  at  the  entrance  to  Hell  Gate.  The 
Bitter  Root  River  is  now  known  as  the  Missoula,  the  name  Bitter  Root  being 
transferred  to  a  branch  of  Clark's  Fork.  The  Bitter  Root  or  St.  Mary  val- 
ley is  likewise  now  known  as  the  Missoula  valley. 


380  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

the  river,  on  his  way  to  Victor's  camp,  returned  with  us.  We 
reached  Fort  Owen 1  about  noon,  where  we  met  the  other  gen- 
tlemen of  Lieutenant  Arnold's  party.  I  found  Mr.  Lander 
in  camp  near  Fort  Owen,  and  learned  that  he  arrived  the  day 
before  yesterday. 

Fort  Owen  is  situated  on  the  Scattering  Creek  of  Lewis  and 
Clark.  It  was  a  matter  of  the  greatest  gratification,  with  their 
narrative  in  hand,  to  pass  through  this  valley  and  realize  the 
fidelity  and  graphic  character  of  their  descriptions.  Lieutenant 
Arnold  had  been  jerking  beef  against  our  arrival,  and  making 
all  arrangements  to  enable  us  without  delay  to  push  on  west- 
ward. I  examined  very  carefully  into  the  condition  of  the 
train  left  by  Lieutenant  Saxton,  and  of  the  provisions  brought 
to  this  point,  and  had  every  reason  to  congratulate  myself  for 
having  assigned  to  him  this  undertaking.  We  found  there 
nearly  two  thousand  rations,  but  the  animals  were  very  few  of 
them  serviceable,  yet  from  their  appearance  it  was  obvious  that 
none  of  them  would  continue  unserviceable  for  any  considerable 
time,  and  I  believed  they  would  be  entirely  equal  to  any  service 
which  Lieutenant  Mullan's  duties  might  require  of  them. 

September  29-October  3.  During  these  days  we  were  all 
occupied  in  making  arrangements  for  the  movement  of  the 
parties  westward,  and  to  establish  Lieutenant  Mullan's  winter 
post.  Lieutenant  Donelson  arrived  on  the  29th  with  the  main 
party,  and  Lieutenant  Mullan  on  the  30th  with  a  delegation  of 
chiefs  from  the  Flathead  nation. 

It  will  not  be  attempted  here  to  give  any  extended 
account  of  the  explorations  made  by  the  detached  par- 
ties, which  is  very  fully  done  in  the  final  report  by  Gov- 
ernor Stevens.  No  less  than  nine  passes  across  the  main 
chain,  covering  the  range  from  the  49th  parallel  to  the 
Yellowstone,  and  four  passes  across  the  Bitter  Koot 
Eange,  were  examined.  The  most  northerly  of  these, 
the  Marias  Pass,  is  now  traversed  by  the  Great  Northern 
Eailroad,  and  one  of  the  more  southerly  ones,  the  Mul- 

1  Fort  Owen  occupied  the  site  of  the  Flathead  village  and  Catholic  mis- 
sion of  St.  Mary,  which  had  been  recently  abandoned  in  consequence  of  the 
incessant  forays  of  the  Blackfeet. 


FORT  OWEN  381 

Ian  Pass,  situated  some  fifty  miles  south  of  Cadotte's 
Pass,  is  crossed  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

Mr.  Lander  ran  a  line  from  the  Marias  River  via  the 
Teton,  Sun,  and  Dearborn  rivers  to  Lewis  and  Clark's 
Pass,  being  the  one  crossed  by  Captain  Lewis  on  his 
return  trip,  and  situated  twelve  miles  north  of  Cadotte's 
Pass,  and  made  an  examination  of  the  pass.  After  trav- 
eling some  distance  down  the  valley  of  the  Blackfoot,  he 
left  it,  and  went  across  country  to  the  Hell  Gate  River, 
and  moved  up  the  valley  of  this  stream,  mistaking  it  for 
the  Bitter  Root.  Finally,  realizing  his  mistake,  he  turned 
from  it,  and,  crossing  over  a  number  of  divides  and 
streams,  he  followed  an  Indian  trail  which  led  him  to 
Fort  Owen.  In  consequence  of  this  eccentric  route,  and 
his  animals  having  been  much  pushed,  they  came  in  ex- 
ceedingly jaded,  although  he  started  with  the  best  train 
of  the  whole  party.  He  made  no  observations  bearing 
upon  the  railroad  line  except  for  seven  miles  of  the  pass, 
a  short  distance  thence  down  the  Blackfoot  valley,  and  a 
small  portion  of  the  Hell  Gate  valley. 

Lieutenant  Mullan's  trip  to  the  Muscle  Shell  was  a  very 
extended  one,  four  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  in  length. 
He  returned  by  the  pass  which  now  bears  his  name,  ac- 
companied by  a  delegation  of  the  Flathead  Indians. 

Mr.  Tinkham,  after  examining  the  approaches  to  Ca- 
dotte's Pass  from  the  Sun  River,  on  a  more  northern 
route  than  that  taken  by  the  main  party,  had  left  it  at 
the  camp  of  the  26th  on  the  Blackfoot  to  explore  a  route 
westward  to  the  Jocko  and  Clark's  Fork,  which  it  was 
expected  might  prove  a  cut-off,  and  had  not  yet  rejoined 
the  main  party. 

On  September  30  and  October  1  Governor  Stevens 
had  conferences  with  the  chiefs  of  the  Flatheads,  and 
broached  to  them  his  great  idea  of  a  Blackfoot  peace 
council.     They  were  very  doubtful  at  first,  having  too 


382  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

recent  and  bitter  experience  of  Blackfoot  depredations. 
What  should  they  do,  they  asked,  in  case  the  Blackfeet 
came  near  their  camp  at  night  ?  In  reply  the  governor 
advised  them  not  to  attack  unless  it  was  evident  they 
intended  to  do  mischief.  Still  they  must  not  remain 
quiet  and  see  their  men  killed  or  horses  stolen.  "  I  would 
leave  Lieutenant  Mullan  with  ten  or  fifteen  men  to  pro- 
tect you  from  the  Blackfeet,  but  they  have  promised 
not  to  disturb  you,  and  I  believe  they  mean  to  abide  by 
it,"  etc.  After  considering  the  matter  for  a  day  among 
themselves,  the  Indians  promised  to  attend  the  council. 

The  governor  decided  to  establish  a  post  in  the  Bitter 
Root  valley  for  the  winter,  under  the  charge  of  Lieuten- 
ant Mullan,  in  order  to  determine  the  winter  regimen  of 
the  mountains,  the  depth  and  duration  of  snow,  the  cli- 
mate, etc.  Thirteen  men  were  left  with  Lieutenant 
Mullan,  and  a  large  band  of  animals  and  ample  supplies, 
and  he  was  instructed  to  make  careful  meteorological 
observations  during  the  winter,  to  continue  the  explora- 
tion of  the  mountain  section,  extending  it  to  Fort  Hall 
on  the  south,  and  as  far  as  Flathead  Lake  or  Clark's 
Fork  on  the  north,  and  to  keep  a  watchful  and  protec- 
tive eye  over  the  Flathead  Indians. 

The  governor  directed  Lieutenant  Donelson  to  pro- 
ceed with  the  main  party  by  way  of  Clark's  Fork  and 
Pend  Oreille  Lake,  and  assigned  Lander  to  duty  with 
him  for  side  examinations,  while  the  governor  himself 
took  the  more  direct  but  rugged  Cceur  d'Alene  route 
over  the  Bitter  Roots.  To  Dr.  Suckley  was  intrusted 
the  adventurous  -duty  of  descending  the  Bitter  Root 
River,  Clark's  Fork,  Pend  Oreille  Lake,  and  the  Co- 
lumbia River  by  canoe  to  the  Dalles,  then  the  frontier  set- 
tlement. Lieutenant  Arnold  was  to  proceed  from  Pend 
Oreille  Lake,  separating  from  the  main  party  at  that 
point,  in  a  direct  westerly  course  to  Colville,  and  thence 


EXPLORING  THE  MOUNTAINS  383 

to  explore  the  plains  of  the  great  bend  of  the  Columbia, 
east  of  that  river. 

Mr.  Tinkham,  who  came  in  a  few  days  later,  was  di- 
rected to  explore  the  Marias  Pass  from  the  west  side, 
and,  crossing  the  mountains  by  it,  to  proceed  to  Fort 
Benton,  confer  with  and  take  letters  of  instruction  to 
Lieutenant  Grover  and  Mr.  Doty,  and  return  to  the  Bit- 
ter Root  valley  by  one  of  the  southerly  passes.  Thence 
he  was  to  cross  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains  by  one  of  the 
Nez  Perces  trails,  and  proceed  to  Walla  Walla  valley  and 
Olympia. 

Thus  by  the  establishment  of  the  two  stations  at  Fort 
Benton  and  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  under  Mr.  Doty  and 
Lieutenant  Mullan,  respectively,  and  by  the  explorations 
of  the  detached  parties,  Governor  Stevens  kept  the  whole 
mountain  region  under  observation  and  solved  the  ques- 
tions of  climate  and  snows.  Indeed,  he  had  the  range 
crossed  at  every  month  in  the  year  by  one  or  other  of 
these  parties. 

Continues  the  personal  narrative  :  — 

Accordingly,  on  the  2d  Mr.  Lander  went  down  the  valley 
to  make  some  examinations  of  Hell  Gate,  and  on  the  3d  Lieu- 
tenant Donelson  was  under  way  with  the  main  party.  I  left  on 
the  4th  and  overtook  and  camped  with  the  main  party  in  my 
old  camp  of  the  27th  and  28th  of  September.  Continuing  on, 
on  the  5th  we  both  moved  down  the  valley,  and  encamped  on  the 
Bitter  Root,  some  three  or  four  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Hell 
Gate.  Here  I  ascertained  that  Mr.  Lander,  instead  of  waiting 
for  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Donelson  to  receive  the  instruc- 
tions which  I  had  directed  to  be  issued  to  him,  to  go  down  the 
Bitter  Root  to  its  mouth  and  join  the  main  party  at  the  Horse 
Plain,  had  preceded  him  on  the  main  trail,  and  must  be  some- 
where near  the  divide  between  the  Bitter  Root  and  the  Jocko. 
Accordingly  instructions  were  sent  directing  him  to  return  in 
order  to  proceed  on  the  duty  which  had  been  assigned  to  him. 

This  same  day  I  visited  Victor  at  his  camp  on  the  Hell  Gate, 
three  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root,  and  in  return 


384  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

was  visited  by  him  at  our  camp,  where  we  had  much  interest- 
ing conversation  in  regard  to  the  Indians,  the  character  of  the 
country,  and  the  passes,  particularly  in  the  winter.  I  deter- 
mined to  remain  here  until  Mr.  Tinkham  returned,  who  had  not 
yet  been  heard  from. 

October  6.  Lieutenant  Donelson  moved  off  this  morning  on 
the  route  of  the  Jocko  River  and  Clark's  Fork.  Mr.  Lander, 
who  had  returned  to  my  camp  in  compliance  with  instructions, 
moved  down  the  Bitter  Root  this  afternoon.  I  sent  up  to  Fort 
Owen  for  Lieutenant  Mullan,  and  we  remained  in  camp,  pass- 
ing the  time  as  pleasantly  as  we  could,  awaiting  the  arrival  of 
Mr.  Tinkham.  Meanwhile  a  huge  joint  of  beef  was  placed 
upon  the  spit,  to  be  in  readiness  when  the  explorers  should 
come  in,  and  honest  Sergeant  Simpson  undertook  to  act  as 
cook.  Bending  over  the  fire,  with  huge  drops  of  perspiration 
rolling  from  his  glowing  red  face,  a  picture  was  presented 
which  Mr.  Stanley  thought  not  unworthy  a  trial  of  his  pencil, 
while  Osgood  jokingly  told  Simpson  he  was  working  then  for 
"  two  dollars  a  day  and  roast  beef."  The  meat  was  cooked  in 
the  nicest  manner,  and  at  half  past  five  o'clock  we  sat  down  to 
it,  having  as  guests  Mr.  Tinkham  and  his  party,  the  returned 
"  lost  sheep  of  the  house  of  Israel,"  also  Lieutenant  Mullan, 
who  had  arrived  in  season  to  join  in  our  meal. 

Having  no  guide,  Mr.  Tinkham  had  not  succeeded  in 
finding  a  direct  route,  but  after  a  circuitous  trip  got 
through  to  the  Jocko,  and,  moving  back  on  Lieutenant 
Donelson' s  trail,  joined  the  governor,  who  now  gave  him 
the  instructions  to  examine  the  Marias  Pass,  etc.  The 
narrative  continues :  — 

It  is  extraordinary  how  easy  of  passage  the  mountains  are 
in  this  latitude.  A  favorite  time  of  the  return  of  the  Flathead 
Indians  from  the  buffalo  hunt  is  between  Christmas  and  New 
Year's ;  it  is  only  in  winters  of  unusual  severity  that  they  are 
unable  to  cross  during  any  month. 

We  have  to-day  seen  at  our  camp  a  good  deal  of  Victor,  the 
Flathead  chief,  celebrated  in  the  book  of  De  Smet.  He  appears 
to  be  simple-minded,  but  rather  wanting  in  energy,  which 
might,  however,  be  developed  in  an  emergency.     I  secured  a 


MEETING  THE  NEZ   PERCES  385 

Flathead  guide  to  go  with  Mr.  Tinkham  through  the  Marias 
Pass,  returning  with  him  by  the  Flathead  Pass.  He  was  at 
first  reluctant  to  go,  but  afterwards  consented.  In  the  course 
of  the  evening  he  came  to  me  to  decline  going,  and  one  or  two 
of  the  men  wished  to  back  out.  On  tracing  the  cause  to  its 
source,  I  found  they  had  been  alarmed  by  some  remarks  of  the 
guide  Monroe,  who  told  them  he  was  afraid  they  would  fall  in 
with  parties  of  Blackfoot  young  men.  I  will  here  remark  that 
the  Indian  agent,  Dr.  Lansdale,  in  1856  went  over  the  route 
from  the  Jocko  to  the  Big  Blackfoot,  sought  by  Mr.  Tinkham 
in  1853.  It  is  much  used  by  the  upper  Pend  Oreille  Indians 
in  going  to  hunt  buffalo  east  of  the  mountains. 

October  7.  At  8.30  o'clock  we  were  on  the  road,  the  party 
consisting  of  Mr.  Stanley,  Mr.  Osgood,  and  four  voyageurs, 
with  Antoine  Plante,  the  half-breed  guide.  Mr.  Lander,  who 
had  preceded  us,  we  overtook  in  twenty-seven  miles,  when  con- 
tinuing on  eight  miles  over  a  rolling  country,  we  came  to  a  good 
camp  on  a  small  stream  of  water  ;  wood  and  grass  most  excel- 
lent. The  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root  is  generally  a  wide  valley, 
with  occasional  spurs  running  sharp  down  to  the  banks  of  the 
stream,  but  having  opposite  to  such  spurs  an  open  prairie  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river. 

October  8.  We  started  at  7.30  o'clock,  passing  over  a  hilly, 
wooded,  and  at  times  difficult  country,  with  several  patches  of 
prairie,  one  of  which,  two  and  a  half  miles  long  and  containing 
probably  1000  acres,  was  covered  with  an  excellent  growth  of 
grass.  Here  we  met  a  band  of  fifty  Nez  Perces  Indians  going 
to  hunt.  They  have  from  250  to  300  horses,  most  of  them 
splendid  animals,  in  fine  condition,  and  with  perfectly  sound 
backs.  Women  and  children  helped  to  compose  the  band,  and 
babies  of  fifteen  months  old,  packed  in  a  sitting  posture,  rode 
along  without  fear,  grasping  the  reins  with  their  tiny  hands. 
We  met  them  in  the  entrance  to  a  narrow  place,  a  mile  in 
length,  leading  along  the  water's  edge ;  and  wishing  to  have 
a  talk  with  them,  but  unwilling  to  lose  time  in  returning  to  the 
open  ground,  I  invited  them  to  turn  around  to  the  first  prairie, 
which  Antoine  assured  me  was  not  more  than  a  mile  or  two 
beyond.  The  prairie  we  found  to  be  well  grassed,  open,  and 
wooded.     We  now  made  our  halt,  and,  while  preparing  for  our 


386  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

talk,  a  band  of  Cceur  d'Alenes  joined  us.  They,  too,  were  on 
their  way  to  the  hunt,  and  numbered  about  sixty,  men,  women, 
and  children,  and  had  about  200  horses.  We  had  a  long  talk. 
I  told  them  about  the  steps  taken  to  meet  in  council  at  Fort 
Benton  ;  dwelt  particularly  upon  the  prospect  of  the  Blackf eet 
making  peace  with  all  the  Indian  tribes, — upon  the  promise  they 
had  given  that  their  war  parties  should  be  stopped ;  and  told 
them  that  at  Fort  Benton  and  at  St.  Mary's  I  had  left  men  who 
would  interfere  unless  these  war  parties  ceased.  This  intelli- 
gence was  most  gratefully  received.  They  tell  me  that  they 
return  from  the  hunt  in  March,  going  home  by  the  Pend  Oreille 
route.  We  parted  with  them  at  two  o'clock,  and  at  six  made 
a  good  camp  near  the  ford  by  which  we  mean  to  cross  to  the 
left  bank  of  the  Bitter  Root  River.  Two  miles  from  camp  we 
met  two  Pend  Oreilles,  who  turned  around  with  us.  At  the 
camp  we  found  a  mother  and  daughter  who  had  just  crossed  the 
river  and  pitched  their  lodge.  They  had  eight  pack  and  as 
many  spare  animals,  and  were  on  their  way  to  join  the  Indians 
we  met  this  morning.  We  gave  all  the  Indians  coffee,  and  the 
women  in  return  gave  us  some  cooked  kamas  root.  It  is  of  a 
dark  color,  small,  between  the  pear  and  onion  in  shape,  and  of 
a  sweet,  agreeable  flavor. 

October  9.  We  started  at  eight,  and  crossed  the  ford.  The 
ride  of  to-day  has  been  rather  tedious.  We  left  the  valley  to  get 
rid  of  the  undergrowth  of  bushes,  and  took  a  trail  over  the  side- 
hill,  which  carried  us  up  and  down  hill  successively,  and  in  some 
instances  through  woods,  occasionally  obstructed  by  fallen  tim- 
ber. At  noon  we  halted  at  a  creek,  where  we  found  a  single 
Indian  family  drying  venison.  For  a  little  tobacco  they  gave 
us  some  fresh  meat  and  trout,  which  we  roasted  before  the 
fire,  and  which  made  us  a  substantial  lunch ;  after  which,  pur- 
suing our  course,  we  fell  upon  a  stream  flowing  from  the  divid- 
ing ridge,  and,  continuing  up  it  six  miles,  made  a  camp  where 
we  found  an  abundance  of  grass.  Distance  to-day  nineteen 
miles. 

October  10.  We  continued  in  the  valley  about  ten  miles,  the 
road  leading  through  wood.  Larch  and  spruce,  and  inexhaust- 
ible supplies  of  limestone  and  marble,  were  met  with,  and  the 
latter  we  afterwards  found  in  large  quantities  all  through  the 


C(EUR  D'ALENE  OR  STEVENS  PASS  387 

mountains.  At  this  point  the  trail  forks,  one  keeping  to  the 
right  along  the  stream,  and  the  other  turning  to  the  left,  and 
passing  over  a  high,  overhanging  mountain  spur.  Our  guide, 
Antoine,  informed  us  that  the  mountain  trail  was  more  easy  for 
the  animals,  the  one  to  the  right  being  much  obstructed  by- 
fallen  timber.  After  commencing  the  ascent  we  heard  the 
voices  of  our  men  driving  the  animals  in  the  valley  beneath  us, 
and  waited  until  we  had  turned  them  upon  the  trail  we  had  con- 
cluded to  take.  We  ascended  the  dividing  ridge,  and  reached 
a  camp  with  good  grass  upon  a  small  lake,  within  a  mile  of  its 
top.  The  lake,  to  which  we  were  obliged  to  descend  for  water, 
is  twelve  hundred  feet  below  the  camp. 

CCEUR   D'ALENE   OR   STEVENS   PASS. 

October  11.  The  pass  beneath  us  was  made  by  two  rivers 
flowing  from  the  dividing  ridge  in  opposite  directions,  having 
their  sources  in  lakes  not  more  than  half  a  mile  apart;  the 
general  direction  of  the  valleys  being  east  and  west.  We 
estimated  our  camp  to  be  two  thousand  feet  above  the  eastern 
base  of  the  mountain,  and  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above 
the  western  base.  The  lake  upon  the  eastern  side  was  about 
twelve  hundred  feet  below  us,  and  that  upon  the  western  side 
about  seven  hundred  feet  higher.  After  pitching  camp  last  night 
a  drizzling  rain  commenced  falling,  which  we  supposed  would 
turn  into  snow  before  morning.  Upon  awakening  this  morning 
we  were  surprised  to  be  greeted  with  one  of  the  loveliest  days 
imaginable.  The  sky  was  clear,  and  the  air  as  soft  and  balmy 
as  a  morn  in  summer.  After  striking  camp  we  ascended  to 
the  highest  point  of  the  ridge,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
camp.  Here  we  made  a  long  halt,  enjoying  the  magnificent 
view  spread  open  to  us,  which,  I  venture  to  say,  can  scarcely 
be  surpassed  in  any  country.  Far  distant  in  the  east  the  peaks 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  loomed  up  into  view,  stretched  out  to 
a  great  length,  while  the  Flathead  Lake  and  the  valley  thence 
to  the  Blackfoot  Pass  were  plainly  visible.  Nearly  the  entire 
range  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene  Mountains,  clothed  with  evergreen 
forests,  with  here  and  there  an  open  summit  covered  with  grass ; 
numerous  valleys  intersecting  the  country  for  miles  around ; 
courses  of  many  streams  marked  by  the  ascending  fog,  —  all 


388  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

conduced  to  render  the  view  fascinating  in  the  greatest  degree 
to  the  beholder.  The  mountains  were  covered  with  luxuriant, 
coarse  grass.  Seated  on  this  point,  Mr.  Stanley  was  enabled 
to  transfer  this  beautiful  panorama  to  his  sketch-book.  De- 
scending the  peak  to  the  general  level  of  the  ridge,  we  con- 
tinued on  for  six  miles,  when  the  descent  commenced,  and  in 
less  than  three  miles  we  passed  down  a  very  steep  descent  and 
gained  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  we  estimated  rose 
thirty-five  hundred  feet  above  us.  This  brought  us  into  a 
valley  filled  with  gigantic  cedars.  The  larch,  spruce,  and  vine- 
maple  were  found  in  to-day's  march  in  large  quantities,  the 
latter  giving  a  pleasing  variety  to  the  forest  growth.  About 
four  o'clock  we  encamped  upon  the  bank  of  a  stream,  which 
here  grows  much  wider.  A  Coeur  d'Alene  accompanied  us  to 
this  point  from  the  eastern  base  of  the  dividing  ridge,  and  at 
to-night's  encampment  we  found  a  Coeur  d'Alene  and  his  wife 
on  their  way  to  hunt. 

October  12.  The  scarcity  of  grass  last  night  caused  our  ani- 
mals to  wander,  and  three  of  them  were  found  at  the  base  of 
the  mountains  six  miles  back.  It  was  not  until  half  past  ten 
o'clock  that  our  men  had  them  all  collected,  and  we  were  pre- 
pared to  move.  We  rode  until  half  past  three,  when  we  halted 
at  a  beautiful  camp,  although  the  day's  march  had  been  but 
twelve  miles.  Learning  from  Antoine  that  the  Coeur  d'Alene 
Mission  was  only  eleven  miles  beyond,  I  determined  on  going 
in  to-night.  Antoine  and  I  accordingly  mounted,  and  rode  to 
the  Mission  in  an  hour  and  three  quarters. 

CCEUR  D'ALENE   MISSION. 

The  Mission  is  beautifully  located  upon  a  hill  overlooking 
extensive  prairies  stretching  to  the  east  and  west  towards  the 
Coeur  d'Alene  Mountains  and  the  Columbia  River.  About  a 
hundred  acres  of  the  eastern  prairie  adjoining  the  Mission  are 
inclosed  and  under  cultivation,  furnishing  employment  to  thirty 
or  forty  Indians,  men,  women,  and  children.  I  observed  two 
ploughing,  which  they  executed  skillfully ;  others  were  sowing 
wheat,  and  others  digging  potatoes.  Pere  Gazzoli  received  me 
with  the  most  pleasing  hospitality.  Associated  with  him  are 
Pere  Ravalli,  now  absent  to  procure  supplies,  and  Brothers 


THE  MISSION  389 

Charles  Huet  and  Maginn.  Towards  evening  I  witnessed  the 
burial  of  an  Indian  chief.  The  funeral  ceremonies  were  con- 
ducted after  the  Catholic  form,  and  I  was  struck  with  the  har- 
monious voices  of  the  Indian  choristers,  and  with  their  solemn 
observance  of  the  ceremonies. 

The  Mission  is  composed  of  buildings  inclosing  a  square. 
Some  of  them  are  quite  old,  but  the  barn  is  large  and  new. 
The  church  stands  a  little  distance  from  the  rest,  and  does 
much  credit  to  those  who  erected  it.  It  is  constructed  upon  a 
plan  designed  by  Pere  Kavalli,  and  is  of  the  Roman  demi-style 
of  architecture.  Pulleys  and  ropes  were  the  only  mechanical 
aids  in  the  construction.  The  interior  is  prettily  arranged. 
The  altar  is  supported  by  two  massive  timbers  of  pine  which 
are  four  feet  in  diameter.  The  priests  live  in  a  self-denying 
manner,  and  the  good  effect  of  their  influence  over  the  Indians 
around  them  is  plainly  manifest.  There  is  quite  a  village  of 
Indians  near  the  Mission.  They  have  some  half  dozen  log- 
houses,  but  most  of  them  live  in  lodges. 

October  13.  While  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  train,  I  was 
enabled  more  particularly  to  observe  the  manner  in  which  the 
affairs  of  the  Mission  are  conducted.  Brother  Charles  has 
charge  of  the  buildings,  and  attends  to  the  indoor  work,  cooks, 
makes  butter  and  cheese,  issues  provisions,  and  pays  the  In- 
dians for  their  work,  which  payment  is  made  in  tickets  bearing 
a  certain  value,  "  good  for  so  many  potatoes,  or  so  much  wheat," 
etc.  By  this  arrangement  the  Indians  are  able  to  procure  their 
subsistence  in  the  summer  by  hunting  and  fishing,  and  have 
tickets  in  store  for  living  during  the  winter.  They  are  well 
contented,  and  I  was  pleased  to  observe  habits  of  industry 
growing  upon  them.  In  the  barn  we  saw  their  operations  of 
threshing :  four  boys  rode  as  many  mules  abreast  in  a  circle, 
being  followed  by  two  girls  with  flails,  who  appeared  to  be 
perfectly  at  home  in  their  business.  One  half  of  the  barn  is 
reserved  for  their  crops,  while  the  other  is  arranged  for  cattle. 
Their  stock  at  present  consists  of  twenty  cows,  eight  pairs  of 
oxen,  and  ninety  pigs,  which  are  driven  to  pasture  upon  the 
prairie  by  Indian  boys  daily.  I  noticed  an  Indian  woman  milk- 
ing, and  was  surprised  to  see  her  use  both  hands,  something 
rarely  seen  amongst  the  Indians.     We  afterwards  visited  the 


390  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS      ' 

field ;  a  large  fire  was  burning,  and  around  it  sat  Indians  roast- 
ing and  eating  potatoes.  There  appeared  to  be  a  great  scarcity 
of  proper  implements,  and  in  digging  potatoes  many  had  nothing 
better  than  sharpened  sticks.  The  train  arrived  about  one 
o'clock,  and  Pere  Gazzoli  allowed  us  to  turn  our  animals  into 
the  inclosure. 

I  have  heard  of  an  ingenious  method  of  hunting  deer  which 
is  practiced  by  the  Indians.  When  the  Coeur  d'Alenes,  Pend 
Oreilles,  Spokanes,  and  Nez  Perces  meet  together  to  fish  and 
hunt,  they  form  a  large  circle,  and  upon  the  trees,  around  its 
circumference,  attach  pieces  of  cloth  made  to  resemble  the 
human  figure  as  much  as  possible.  Then  the  hunters  enter  the 
area  and  start  up  the  deer.  Each  cloth  having  the  effect  of  a 
man,  the  deer,  being  afraid  to  pass  them,  are  kept  within  the 
circle  and  easily  killed.  Last  year  the  Pend  Oreilles  killed 
eight  hundred  in  one  hunt ;  the  Coeur  d'Alenes,  more  than  four 
hundred. 

When  the  Indians  returned  from  the  field  I  addressed  them 
as  follows :  — 

"  I  am  glad  to  see  you  and  find  that  you  are  under  such  good 
direction.  I  have  come  four  times  as  far  as  you  go  to  hunt 
buffalo,  and  have  come  with  directions  from  the  Great  Father 
to  see  you,  to  talk  to  you,  and  do  all  I  can  for  your  welfare.  I 
see  cultivated  fields,  a  church,  houses,  cattle,  and  the  fruits  of 
the  earth,  the  work  of  your  own  hands.  The  Great  Father  will 
be  delighted  to  hear  this,  and  will  certainly  assist  you.  Go 
on,  and  every  family  will  have  a  house  and  a  patch  of  ground, 
and  every  one  will  be  well  clothed.  I  have  had  talks  with  the 
Blackfeet,  who  promise  to  make  peace  with  all  the  Indian 
tribes.  Listen  to  the  good  Father  and  to  the  good  brothers, 
who  labor  for  your  good." 

October  15.  We  started  at  eight  o'clock,  after  having  given 
Brother  Charles  as  many  lariats  for  raising  the  timbers  of  the 
church  as  we  could  spare,  and  made  eighteen  miles  and  a  quar- 
ter, meeting  on  the  way  some  forty  Indians,  Coeur  d'Alenes, 
Nez  Perces,  and  Spokanes,  on  their  way  to  buffalo.  We  camped 
to-day  in  a  beautiful  prairie,  called  the  Wolf's  Lodge,  with  good 
grass.  Here  we  found  nearly  a  hundred  Spokanes,  with  some 
three  hundred  horses,  on  their  way  to  the  hunt.     Towards  sun- 


CCEUR  D'ALENE  LAKE  391 

down  this  evening  I  was  greatly  interested  in  observing  the 
Spokanes  at  their  devotions.  A  bell  rang,  and  the  whole  band 
gathered  in  and  around  a  large  lodge  for  evening  prayers. 
There  was  something  solemn  and  pathetic  in  the  evening  psalm 
resounding  through  the  forests  around  us.  This  shows  what 
good  results  can  flow  from  the  labors  of  devoted  missionaries, 
for  the  Spokanes  have  had  no  religious  instruction  for  the 
last  five  years.  As  I  went  down  the  river  and  met  band  after 
band  of  the  Spokanes,  I  invariably  found  the  same  regard  for 
religious  services. 

Afterwards  they  came  around  to  my  camp-fire,  and  we  had 
a  talk.  Garry,  they  say,  is  at  his  farm,  four  miles  from  the 
Spokane  House. 

October  16.  We  started  at  eight  o'clock,  our  route  being 
through  an  open  wooded  prairie.  Soon  after  leaving  camp  the 
Cceur  d'Alene  Lake  came  in  view  to  the  south  of  us,  and  eleven 
miles  from  camp  we  struck  it  near  its  western  extremity.  It 
is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  picturesque  hills, 
mostly  covered  with  wood.  Its  shape  is  irregular,  unlike  that 
given  it  upon  the  maps.  Its  waters  are  received  from  the 
Coeur  d'Alene  River,  which  runs  through  it.  Below  the  lake 
the  river  is  not  easily  navigable,  there  being  many  rapids,  and 
in  numerous  places  it  widens  greatly,  and  runs  sluggishly 
through  a  shallow  channel.  Above  the  lake  I  am  informed 
by  the  missionaries  that  it  is  navigable  nearly  to  the  Mission. 
Leaving  the  lake,  we  followed  the  river  on  its  northern  bank, 
passing  a  camp  of  CoBur  d'Alenes,  occupied  with  their  trout 
fisheries.  Here  we  witnessed  a  touching  sight,  a  daughter 
administering  to  her  dying  father.  Still  keeping  through  open 
woods  on  a  most  excellent  road,  in  two  miles  farther  we  came 
to  the  Cceur  d'Alene  prairie,  a  beautiful  tract  of  land  contain- 
ing several  hundred  square  miles.  After  crossing  the  prairie, 
a  distance  of  some  eighteen  miles,  we  continued  on  and  en- 
camped at  a  spring  with  sparse  grass.  Had  we  gone  two  miles 
farther,  we  should  have  found  an  excellent  camp  on  the  river, 
and  the  next  morning  some  of  our  animals  were  found  in  this 
very  spot.  The  horses  of  the  Spokanes  roam  over  this  prairie 
in  herds  of  from  twelve  to  twenty.  Towards  the  latter  portion 
of  the  march  the  river  runs  over  a  rocky  bed  of  trap. 


392  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

October  17.  Leaving  camp,  Antoine,  Osgood,  Stanley,  and 
myself  turned  from  the  trail  to  visit  the  falls  of  the  Cceur 
d'Alene  River,  while  Lavatte  took  the  train  ahead  on  the  trail 
to  the  Spokane  House.  There  are  two  principal  falls,  one  of 
twenty  feet  and  the  other  of  from  ten  to  twelve  feet,  in  the  latter 
there  being  a  perpendicular  fall  of  seven  or  eight  feet ;  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  the  descent  is  rapid,  over  a  rough  bed  of 
rocks,  and  in  this  distance  we  estimated  a  fall  of  ninety  or  one 
hundred  feet.  One  mile  below  this  point  we  came  to  the  ferry 
crossed  by  Saxton.  Here  there  is  a  small  Indian  village,  and 
the  inhabitants  were  engaged  in  catching  salmon.  I  noticed 
one  large  woman  who  seemed  to  pride  herself  upon  her  person, 
which  she  took  pains  to  set  off  in  the  most  becoming  manner 
by  means  of  a  blanket  wrapped  around  her.  The  road  to  the 
Spokane  House  was  over  a  sandy  prairie,  interspersed  with 
groves  of  pine.  Crossing  a  dividing  ridge  with  high  and  steep 
banks,  we  came  into  the  prairie  in  which  the  Spokane  House  is 
situated,  in  which  were  two  Spokane  villages.  We  inquired 
for  Garry,  and  I  sent  him  a  request  that  he  would  visit  me  at 
my  camp.  The  train  we  found  a  mile  below  the  junction,  across 
the  Spokane.  The  Indians  indicating  a  good  camp  some  dis- 
tance beyond,  we  moved  on  eight  and  a  half  miles  to  it,  which 
we  reached  half  an  hour  before  sundown.  Here  there  was  good 
grass  and  plenty  of  water,  and  we  soon  made  up  a  large  camp- 
fire.  After  arranging  matters  in  camp,  I  observed  about  night- 
fall a  fire  down  the  river,  and,  strolling  down  to  the  place,  came 
upon  a  little  camp  of  Spokane  Indians,  and  found  them  engaged 
in  religious  services,  which  I  was  glad  of  an  opportunity  to 
witness.  There  were  three  or  four  men,  the  same  number  of 
women,  and  half  a  dozen  children.  Their  exercises  were,  1, 
address ;  2,  Lord's  prayer ;  3,  Psalms ;  4,  benediction,  and 
were  conducted  with  great  solemnity. 

In  the  evening  Garry  visited  us  with  some  of  his  tribe.  They 
gave  rumors  of  a  large  party  having  arrived  opposite  Col- 
ville,  also  of  a  small  party  having  gone  from  Walla  Walla  to 
Colville. 

Garry  was  educated  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  at  Red 
River,  where  he  lived  four  years  with  six  other  Indians  from 
this  vicinity,  all  of  whom  are  now  dead.     He  speaks  English 


COLVILLE  393 

and  French  well,  and  we  have  had  a  long  conversation  this 
evening ;  but  he  is  not  frank,  and  I  do  not  understand  him. 
He  has  an  extensive  field,  where  he  raises  a  large  quantity  of 
wheat.  To-morrow  he  is  going  to  Colville  to  get  some  of  it 
ground.  Garry  promises  to  send  me  to-morrow  the  Indian  who 
has  just  arrived  from  the  Yakima  country,  and  who  is  posted  up 
concerning  the  news  of  that  place. 

October  18.  A  Spokane  breakfasted  with  us  this  morning, 
and  we  started  at  8.30  o'clock.  After  riding  till  ten  o'clock  we 
were  joined  by  the  old  Indian  referred  to  yesterday,  and  An- 
toine's  services  were  immediately  put  into  requisition  to  obtain 
information.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  lunched.  The  old  man 
stated  that  a  large  party  reached  the  bank  of  the  river  opposite 
Colville  yesterday,  and  that  they  would  cross  to-day.  I  was 
satisfied  from  his  accounts  that  the  party  was  McClellan's,  and 
accordingly  determined  on  going  to  Colville  to-night.  Antoine 
has  horses  half  way.  We  rested  until  two  o'clock  and  then  set 
out,  Antoine  and  myself  pushing  ahead  of  the  train.  We  met 
Antoine's  family  encamped  on  a  fine  prairie,  with  whom  An- 
toine remained,  sending  his  brother-in-law  with  us  as  a  guide. 
At  4.15  we  reached  the  ferry,  where  we  were  detained  fifteen 
minutes.  At  4.45  we  met  Jack  (Lieutenant  Macfeely's  guide), 
who  informed  me  that  Macfeely  reached  Walla  Walla  three 
weeks  ago,  being  twenty-two  days  coming  from  St.  Mary's.  He 
lost  twenty  animals,  and  was  detained  two  days  in  an  unsuc- 
cessful search  for  a  man  who  had  strayed  from  the  trail.  The 
road  was  bad,  and  they  got  off  the  trail,  having  struck  too  high 
up.  Jack  told  us  it  was  twenty-eight  miles  to  Colville,  and 
that  we  could  not  reach  there  to-night,  but,  being  determined  to 
do  so,  we  pushed  on  and  reached  Brown's  at  5.45,  who  informed 
us  that  the  distance  to  Colville  was  eighteen  miles.  After  par- 
taking of  some  bread  and  milk,  we  resumed  the  road  with  the 
same  animals,  dashing  off  at  full  speed,  going  eight  or  nine 
miles  an  hour  most  of  the  way,  and  reached  Colville  at  nine 
o'clock.  Mr.  McDonald,  the  trader  in  charge,  gave  me  a  most 
hospitable  reception,  and  addressed  a  note  to  McClellan,  who 
had  just  gone  to  his  camp  near  by,  informing  him  of  my  arrival. 
McClellan  came  up  immediately,  and,  though  I  was  fairly  worn 
out  with  the  severeness  of  the  ride,  we  sat  up  till  one  o'clock. 


394  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

At  eleven  we  sat  down  to  a  nice  supper,  prepared  by  Mrs. 
McDonald,  and  regaled  ourselves  with  steaks  cooked  in  buffalo 
fat,  giving  them  the  flavor  of  buffalo  meat.  I  retired  exhausted 
with  the  fatigues  of  the  day. 

CAPTAIN   MoCLELLAN's    EXPLORATIONS. 

It  took  Captain  McClellan  a  month  to  fit  out  his  train 
after  he  reached  Vancouver,  on  the  lower  Columbia,  so 
that  he  did  not  start  on  his  survey  until  the  last  of  July. 
Crossing  the  Cascade  Kange  by  a  pass  south  of  Mount 
Adams,  he  proceeded  northward  over  the  plains  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  range  to  the  Yakima  valley,  moving 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in  thirty  days,  and  re- 
mained there  a  month  longer,  during  which  Mr.  Gibbs 
examined  the  lower  and  Lieutenant  Duncan  the  upper 
valley.  Captain  McClellan  himself,  leaving  his  party  in 
camp,  made  a  hasty  examination  of  the  Snoqualmie  Pass, 
at  the  head  of  the  main  Yakima.  Then  he  crossed  over 
a  dividing  ridge  to  the  Columbia  Eiver,  and  continued  up 
its  right  or  western  bank  to  the  Okinakane  (Okanogan) 
River,  a  distance  of  ninety  miles,  spent  several  days  in 
exploring  that  and  neighboring  streams,  then  ascended 
the  Okinakane  (Okanogan)  River  some  fifty  miles  to 
Lake  Osoyoos,  and  moved  eastward  from  this  point  eighty- 
two  miles  to  the  Columbia,  opposite  Colville,  and  crossed 
on  the  18th,  the  very  day  of  Governor  Stevens's  arrival 
at  the  same  point. 

McClellan,  as  appears  from  his  report,  took  a  decidedly 
unfavorable  view  of  the  country,  and  of  a  railroad  route 
across  the  Cascades.  He  declared  in  substance  that  the 
Columbia  River  Pass  was  the  only  one  worth  considering, 
that  there  was  no  pass  whatever  north  of  it  except  the 
Snoqualmie  Pass,  and  gave  it  as  his  firm  and  settled 
opinion  that  the  snow  in  winter  was  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  feet  deep  in  that  pass. 


McCLELLAN'S  SURVEY  395 

His  examination  of  the  pass  was  a  very  hasty  and 
cursory  one,  with  no  other  instruments  than  a  compass 
and  a  barometer,  and  extended  only  three  miles  across 
the  summit.  His  only  information  as  to  the  depth  of 
winter  snow  was  the  reports  of  Indians,  and  the  marks  of 
snow  on  the  trees,  or  what  he  took  to  be  such.  Thus  the 
most  important  point,  the  real  problem  of  the  field  of 
exploration  intrusted  to  him,  namely,  the  existence  and 
character  of  the  Cascade  passes,  he  failed  to  determine. 
He  failed  utterly  to  respond  to  Governor  Stevens's  ear- 
nest and  manly  exhortation,  "  We  must  not  be  frightened 
with  long  tunnels,  or  enormous  snows,  but  set  ourselves 
to  work  to  overcome  them."  He  manifested  the  same 
dilatoriness  in  preparation  and  moving,  the  same  timidity 
in  action,  the  same  magnifying  of  difficulties,  that  later 
marked  and  ruined  his  career  as  an  army  commander. 

Two  railroads  now  cross  the  range  which  he  examined, 
—  the  Northern  Pacific,  by  a  pass  just  south  of  the  Sno- 
qualmie  and  north  of  the  Nahchess,  the  very  place  of 
which  McClellan  reported  that  "  there  certainly  is  none 
between  this  (the  Snoqualmie)  and  the  Nahchess  Pass;" 
and  the  Great  Northern,  by  a  pass  at  the  head  of  the 
Wenachee  or  Pisquouse  River,  of  which  stream  he  de- 
clared, "It  appears  certain  that  there  can  be  no  pass  at 
its  head  for  a  road."  The  snows  he  so  much  exaggerated 
have  proved  no  obstacle,  and  in  fact  have  actually  caused 
less  trouble  and  obstruction  in  these  passes  than  in  the 
Columbia  Pass  itself.1 

1  One  of  the  lines  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Eailroad  now  crosses  the  Cceur 
d'Alene  Pass  on  Governor  Stevens's  route,  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Mission, 
running  thence  south  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene  Lake  to  Spokane. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

UPPER  COLUMBIA  TO  PUGET  SOUND 

Upon  learning  the  results  of  McClellan's  explorations, 
Governor  Stevens  proposed  to  send  him  up  the  Yakima 
again  to  carry  the  survey  clear  across  the  Cascades  to 
Puget  Sound,  and  at  first  that  officer  seemed  willing 
to  undertake  the  duty.  After  spending  two  days  at  Col- 
ville  the  governor,  accompanied  by  McClellan  and  his 
party,  moved  south  in  three  marches  to  a  camp  six  miles 
south  of  the  Spokane  River,  named  Camp  Washington, 
where  on  October  28  arrived  Lieutenant  Donelson  with  the 
main  party.  During  these  days  there  was  a  fall  of  snow 
covering  the  ground,  which,  however,  soon  melted  and 
disappeared.  But  it  was  enough  to  dismay  McClellan. 
He  now  demurred  to  crossing  the  Cascades,  claiming  it 
to  be  impracticable  so  late  in  the  fall.  It  was  indeed  late  ; 
snow  had  already  fallen  on  the  plains,  and  presumably 
would  be  deeper  in  the  mountains ;  and  the  Cascades  were 
McClellan's  own  particular  field,  of  which  he  ought  to  be 
the  best  judge.  The  governor  therefore  reluctantly,  and 
rather  against  his  better  judgment,  relinquished  the  plan 
of  crossing  the  Snoqualmie  Pass  that  fall,  and  gave  orders 
for  both  parties  to  move  by  way  of  Walla  Walla  and  the 
Dalles  to  Vancouver,  and  thence  to  Olympia,  at  the  head 
of  Puget  Sound. 

"  Had  I  possessed  at  Camp  Washington,"  says  the  governor, 
"  information  which  I  gained  in  six  days  afterwards  at  Walla 
Walla,  I  should  have  pushed  the  party  over  the  Cascades  in  the 
present  condition  of  the  animals ;  but  Captain  McClellan  was 


MCDONALD'S  INDIAN  TALES  397 

entitled  to  weight  in  his  judgment  of  the  route,  it  being  upon 
the  special  field  of  his  examination." 

The  incidents  of  the  march  to  Camp  Washington  are 
thus  narrated :  — 

During  our  stay  at  Colville,  we  visited  McDonald's  camp. 
Near  it  there  is  a  mission,  under  the  charge  of  Pere  Lewis, 
whom  we  visited.  The  Indians  about  the  mission  are  well  dis- 
posed and  religious.  As  we  returned  to  the  fort,  Mr.  Stanley- 
was  just  going  into  camp,  having  made  a  march  of  thirty-five 
miles.  In  the  evening  we  listened  to  the  thrilling  stories  and 
exciting  legends  of  McDonald,  with  which  his  memory  seems  to 
be  well  stored.  He  says  intelligence  had  reached  him  through 
the  Blackf eet  of  the  coming  of  my  party ;  that  the  Blackf eet 
gave  most  singular  accounts  of  everything  connected  with  us. 
For  instance,  they  said  that  our  horses  had  claws  like  the 
grizzly  bear;  they  climbed  up  the  steep  rocks  and  held  on  by 
their  claws ;  that  their  necks  were  like  the  new  moon ;  and 
that  their  neighing  was  like  the  sound  of  distant  thunder. 
McDonald  has,  of  course,  given  a  free  translation  of  the  reports 
made  by  Indians.  We  listened  to  his  accounts  of  his  own 
thrilling  adventures  of  his  mountain  life,  and  a  description  of 
an  encounter  with  a  party  of  Blackfeet  is  well  worth  relating. 
At  the  head  of  a  party  of  three  or  four  men  he  was  met  by  a 
band  of  these  Indians,  who  showed  evidences  of  hostility.  By 
signs  he  requested  the  chief  of  the  Blackfeet  to  advance  and 
meet  him,  both  being  unarmed.  When  the  chief  assented,  and 
met  him  half  way  between  the  two  parties,  McDonald  caught 
him  by  the  hair  of  the  head,  and,  holding  him  firmly,  exacted 
from  the  remaining  Indians  promises  to  give  up  their  arms, 
which  they  accordingly  did,  and  passed  on  peaceably.  He  has 
lived  here  many  years,  and  is  an  upright,  intelligent,  manly,  and 
energetic  man. 

October  21.  We  moved  off.  McDonald  presented  us  with 
a  keg  filled  with  cognac  to  cheer  the  hearts  of  the  members  of 
all  the  parties,  and  obliged  us  also  to  take  a  supply  of  port 
wine.  We  passed  his  gristmill  on  Mill  River,  the  only  one  in 
the  neighborhood.  A  march  of  twelve  miles  brought  us  into 
camp,  McDonald  accompanying  us0    We  had  a  glorious  supper 


398  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

of  smoking  steaks  and  hot  cakes,  and  the  stories  added  to  the 
relish  with  which  it  was  eaten.  McDonald  again  charmed  us 
with  a  recital  of  his  thrilling  adventures. 

October  22.  We  got  off  early,  and  at  Brown's  we  stopped 
to  purchase  horses,  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  two,  one  for 
McClellan  and  the  other  for  myself.  McDonald  accompanied 
me  some  distance  farther,  when,  bidding  each  other  adieu,  I 
pushed  ahead,  and,  reaching  a  small  stream,  I  found  that 
McClellan's  party  had  taken  the  left  bank,  and  that  the  cap- 
tain had  gone  on  to  join  them.  We  took  the  right,  and  thus 
avoided  a  bad  crossing  in  which  McClellan's  party  became  in- 
volved. We  encamped  upon  the  borders  of  the  stream.  Our 
train  is  larger  and  more  heavily  laden  than  heretofore,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  increased  supplies.  To-day  we  have  thirteen 
packs.  At  night  we  killed  a  cow  purchased  of  Brown,  and  we 
still  have  an  ox  in  reserve,  to  be  killed  when  we  meet  Donelson. 
The  air  is  cool  and  fresh,  and  our  appetites  keen.  I  may  say 
here  that  two  pounds  of  beef  and  half  a  pound  of  flour  per  man 
are  not  too  much  for  a  day's  allowance. 

October  23.  Snow  is  falling  this  morning,  and  it  has  cleaned 
our  beef  admirably.  We  journeyed  but  ten  miles,  encamping 
near  where  we  had  seen  Antoine's  family  in  going  to  Colville. 
The  snow  ceased  falling  about  noon,  with  five  inches  upon  the 
ground.  It  is  light,  and  we  think  it  will  disappear  in  a  few 
days.  The  Indians  inform  me  that  we  shall  not  probably  find 
it  south  of  the  Cceur  d'Alene,  and  from  their  statements  it 
would  seem  that  this  river  is  a  dividing  line  as  regards  climate. 

October  24.  We  started  this  morning  with  the  intention  of 
reaching  the  appointed  place  of  meeting  to-night.  McClellan, 
Minter,  Osgood,  Stanley,  and  myself  pushed  ahead,  and  at  noon 
we  reached  the  old  Chemakane  Mission,  so  called  from  a  spring 
of  that  name  near  by.  The  mission  was  occupied  by  Messrs. 
Walker  and  Eells,  but  in  1849,  in  consequence  of  the  Cuyuse 
difficulties,  it  was  abandoned.  These  gentlemen  labored  ar- 
dently for  the  good  of  the  Indians.  Walker  was  a  good  farmer 
and  taught  them  agriculture,  and  by  them  his  name  is  now 
mentioned  with  great  respect.  The  house  occupied  by  Walker 
is  still  standing,  but  Eells's  has  been  burned  down.  The  site  of 
the  mission  is  five  miles  from  the  Spokane  River,  in  an  exten- 


CHEMAKANE  MISSION  399 

sive  open  valley,  well  watered  and  very  rich.  Here  we  met 
Garry  and  two  hundred  Spokanes.  Garry  has  forwarded  the 
letter  to  Donelson,  but  has  received  no  intelligence  of  his 
arrival  in  the  Cceur  d'Alene  plain.  We  therefore  concluded 
to  encamp  here,  and  to-morrow  McClellan  and  myself  are 
to  accompany  Garry  to  the  Spokane  House.  The  Colville  or 
Slawntehus  and  Chemakane  valleys  have  a  productive  soil,  and 
are  from  one  to  three  miles  wide,  and  bordered  by  low  hills, 
covered  with  larch,  pine,  and  spruce,  and  having  also  a  produc- 
tive soil.  In  the  evening  the  Indians  clustered  around  our  fire, 
and  manifested  much  pleasure  in  our  treatment  of  them.  I 
have  now  seen  a  great  deal  of  Garry,  and  am  much  pleased 
with  him.  Beneath  a  quiet  exterior  he  shows  himself  to  be  a 
man  of  judgment,  forecast,  and  great  reliability,  and  I  could 
see  in  my  interview  with  his  band  the  ascendency  he  possesses 
over  them. 

In  the  Colville  valley  there  is  a  line  of  settlements  twenty- 
eight  miles  long.  The  settlers  are  persons  formerly  connected 
with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  they  are  anxious  to  become 
naturalized,  and  have  the  lands  they  now  occupy  transferred  to 
themselves.  I  informed  them  that  I  could  only  express  my 
hopes  that  their  case  would  be  met  by  the  passage  of  a  special 
act.  They  are  extensive  farmers,  and  raise  a  great  deal  of 
wheat. 

October  25.  Having  left  the  necessary  directions  for  moving 
camp  to  the  place  of  meeting  with  Donelson,  Captain  McClellan 
and  myself  accompanied  Garry  to  the  Spokane  House.  The 
road  was  slippery  in  consequence  of  the  melting  of  the  snow, 
and  we  were  obliged  frequently  to  dismount.  We  found  Garry's 
family  in  a  comfortable  lodge,  and  he  informed  us  that  he 
always  had  on  hand  flour,  sugar,  and  coffee,  with  which  to 
make  his  friends  comfortable.  We  then  went  to  our  new  camp 
south  of  the  Spokane,  which  had  been  established  whilst  we 
were  visiting  Garry's  place.  From  the  Chemakane  Mission 
the  train  left  the  river,  and,  passing  through  a  rolling  country 
covered  with  open  pine  woods,  in  five  miles  reached  the  Spo- 
kane, and  crossing  it  by  a  good  and  winding  ford,  ascended  the 
plain,  and  in  six  miles,  the  first  two  of  which  was  through  open 
pine,  reached  Camp  Washington. 


400  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

October  26,  27,  28,  and  29.  During  these  days  I  was  occu- 
pied at  our  camp  (Camp  Washington)  in  making  the  arrange- 
ments for  moving  westward.  Lieutenant  Donelson  arrived  on 
the  28th,  and  we  all  sat  down  to  a  fine  supper  prepared  for 
the  occasion.  All  the  members  of  the  exploration  were  in  fine 
spirits ;  our  table  was  spread  under  a  canopy,  and  upon  it  a 
great  variety  of  dishes  appeared,  roasted  beef,  bouillon,  steaks, 
and  abundance  of  hot  bread,  coffee,  sugar,  and  our  friend 
McDonald's  good  cheer.  But  the  best  dish  was  a  beef's  head 
cooked  by  friend  Minter  in  Texas  fashion.  It  was  placed  in  a 
hole  in  the  ground  on  a  layer  of  hot  coals,  with  moss  and  leaves 
around  it  to  protect  it  from  the  dirt,  and  then  covered  up. 
There  it  remained  for  some  iiye  or  six  hours,  when,  removing 
it,  the  skin  came  off  without  difficulty,  and  it  presented  a  very 
tempting  dish,  and  was  enjoyed  by  every  member  of  the  party. 

Having  given  the  necessary  instructions  to  McClellan 
and  Donelson  to  proceed  with  their  parties  to  the  Walla 
Walla,  thence  to  the  Dalles,  Vancouver,  and  Olympia, 
making  careful  survey  of  the  country  on  the  route,  the 
governor,  with  his  small  party,  pushed  on  ahead,  having 
Garry  and  his  brother  as  guides.  Starting  late  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  29th,  they  journeyed  thirteen  miles  over 
undulating  hills  and  a  high  table-land,  and  encamped  upon 
a  small  stream  called  Se-cule-eel-qua,  with  fine  grass  and 
fertile  soil. 

October  30.  We  commenced  to  move  at  sunrise,  and  at 
three  P.  M.  encamped  on  a  small  lake  twenty-two  miles  from 
our  place  of  departure  in  the  morning.  In  view  of  this  camp 
were  the  graves  of  a  number  of  Spokane  Indians,  indicated 
by  mounds  of  stones,  designed  to  protect  the  bodies  from  the 
wolves,  and  by  poles  supported  in  an  upright  position  by  the 
stones.  It  was  the  usage  until  within  a  few  years  past,  for 
the  Spokanes  and  other  northern  tribes  towards  the  Pacific  to 
slay  the  horses  and  cattle  of  the  deceased  at  his  grave,  and  also 
to  sacrifice  his  other  property,  but  they  are  gradually  relin- 
quishing this  pernicious  practice,  under  the  influence  of  the 
counsels  and  example  of  the  white  man. 


p8H  U£ 

*  OF  TE1 

INDIAN  TRADITION! J^IVERSITT 

October  31.  We  continued  to  follow  the  general  course  of 
the  stream  upon  whose  banks  we  were  encamped,  and  after 
riding  eight  miles  we  crossed  another  small  stream,  rising  in 
a  chain  of  small  lakes  south  of  our  last  camp.  These  lakes 
abound  in  wild  fowl,  which  at  this  season  are  very  plentiful,  and 
they  are  therefore  much  resorted  to  by  the  Spokanes  and  other 
Indians.  We  saw  in  one  of  these  lakes,  surrounded  by  ducks 
and  geese,  a  pair  of  white  swans,  which  remained  to  challenge 
our  admiration  after  their  companions  had  been  frightened 
away  by  our  approach. 

Garry  assures  us  that  there  is  a  remarkable  lake  called  En- 
chush-chesh-she-luxum,  or  Never  Freezing  Water,  about  thirty 
miles  to  the  east  of  this  place.  It  is  much  larger  than  any  of 
the  lakes  just  mentioned,  and  so  completely  surrounded  by  high 
and  precipitous  rocks  that  it  is  impossible  to  descend  to  the 
water.  It  is  said  never  to  freeze,  even  in  the  most  severe 
winter.  The  Indians  believe  that  it  is  inhabited  by  buffalo, 
elk,  deer,  and  all  other  kinds  of  game,  which,  they  say,  may  be 
seen  in  the  clear,  transparent  element.  He  also  narrates  the 
story  of  a  superstition  respecting  a  point  of  painted  rock  in 
Pend  Oreille  Lake,  situated  near  the  place  now  occupied  by 
Michal  Ogden.  The  Indians,  he  says,  do  not  venture  to  pass 
this  point,  fearing  that  the  Great  Spirit  may,  as  related  in  the 
legends,  create  a  commotion  in  the  water  and  cause  them  to  be 
swallowed  up  in  the  waves.  The  painted  rocks  are  very  high, 
and  bear  effigies  of  men  and  beasts  and  other  characters,  made, 
as  the  Indians  believe,  by  a  race  of  men  who  preceded  them 
as  inhabitants  of  the  land. 

Our  route  to-day  has  been  through  a  rocky  and  broken 
country,  and  after  a  march  of  thirty-two  miles  we  encamped 
on  a  small  stream  called  En-cha-rae-nae,  flowing  from  the  lake 
where  we  last  halted,  near  a  number  of  natural  mounds. 

November  1.  Our  course  lay  down  the  valley  of  the  En-cha- 
rae-nae,  a  rugged  way,  beset  with  deep  clefts  in  the  volcanic 
rocks.  We  crossed  the  Pelouse  River  near  the  mouth  of  the 
former,  and  near  the  stream  flowing  from  the  never  freezing 
lake,  and  twelve  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Pelouse.  Four 
miles  from  our  place  of  crossing  the  Pelouse  runs  through  a  deep 
canon,  surrounded  by  isolated  volcanic  buttes,  to  its  junction 


402  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

with  Snake  Kiver.  At  two  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Pelouse,  and,  crossing  Snake  Kiver,  we  encamped  on  its 
southern  bank,  several  Pelouse  Indians  accompanying  us,  and 
among  them  a  chief  from  a  band  but  a  few  miles  distant  from 
our  camp,  Wi-ti-my-hoy-she.  He  exhibited  a  medal  of  Thomas 
Jefferson,  dated  1801,  given  to  his  grandfather,  as  he  alleges, 
by  Lewis  and  Clark. 

November  2.  I  have  referred  in  an  early  stage  of  this  narra- 
tive to  the  condition  of  my  health,  and  will  state  that  not  a  day 
was  I  on  the  road  from  Fort  Benton  to  this  point  that  I  did 
not  suffer  much.  The  day  I  made  my  long  ride  to  Colville,  I 
was  so  feeble  and  exhausted  that,  on  making  my  noon  halt  after 
moving  fifteen  miles,  I  was  obliged  to  have  my  bed  spread  in 
order  to  rest ;  but  the  idea  of  meeting  gentlemen  so  soon,  from 
whom  I  had  been  so  long  separated,  enabled  me  to  bear  the 
fatigue  of  my  afternoon  fifty  miles'  ride  to  Colville.  Although 
in  great  suffering,  I  determined  to  move  with  Garry  from 
Snake  River  to  Fort  Walla  Walla  to-day,  leaving  Mr.  Stanley 
to  come  on  with  my  party  and  train  in  two  days.  I  desired  to 
save  a  day  in  order  to  collect  information  at  Walla  Walla,  and 
to  visit  the  Walla  Walla  valley.  Accordingly  we  set  off.  It 
required  me  three  hours  to  get  my  courage  up  to  the  sticking- 
point,  so  that  I  could  bear  the  pain  growing  out  of  traveling 
at  a  gait  faster  than  a  walk ;  but,  getting  warm  in  the  saddle, 
we  increased  our  speed,  and  on  reaching  the  Touchet  we  dis- 
mounted for  a  slight  halt.  Pushing  on  a  little  before  two 
o'clock,  we  reached  Fort  Walla  Walla  at  sundown,  moving  the 
last  twenty-five  miles  at  the  rate  of  about  eight  miles  an  hour, 
and  were  there  hospitably  received  by  Mr.  Pembrum,  the  factor 
in  charge,  and  after  a  little  conversation  I  refreshed  myself 
with  reading  some  late  papers.  On  the  road  my  time  was 
much  occupied  with  studying  the  deportment  of  the  mountain 
ranges  in  view,  and  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  country  about 
me,  to  judge  something  of  its  winter  climate  and  the  probable 
fall  of  snow  ;  and  on  reaching  Walla  Walla  I  became  satisfied 
from  these  things,  and  especially  from  a  view  of  the  highest 
spur  of  the  Blue  Mountains  in  sight,  that  the  snows  of  the  Cas- 
cades could  not  be  so  formidable  as  they  had  been  represented. 
I  accordingly  determined  to  search  thoroughly  into  this  matter 
at  Walla  Walla. 


PU-PU-MOX-MOX  403 

November  3-8.  I  remained  in  the  "Walla  Walla  country 
during  these  days,  spending  two  days  up  the  valley  and  the 
remainder  at  the  fort.  Mr.  Stanley,  with  the  train,  reached  the 
fort  on  the  3d,  and, 

November  4,  we  started  upon  the  trip  through  the  valley,  rid- 
ing upon  our  horses.  Arriving  at  the  Hudson  Bay  farm,  we 
exchanged  them  for  fresh  ones.  This  farm  is  eighteen  miles 
from  Walla  Walla,  and  is  a  fine  tract  of  land,  well  adapted  to 
grazing  or  cultivation.  It  is  naturally  bounded  by  streams,  and 
is  equivalent  to  a  mile  square.  There  is  the  richest  grass  here 
that  we  have  seen  since  leaving  St.  Mary's.  From  this  we 
went  to  McBane's  house,  a  retired  factor  of  the  company,  from 
whence  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  val- 
ley, which  is  watered  by  many  tributaries  from  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains. Thirty  miles  from  Walla  Walla,  and  near  McBane's, 
lives  Father  Chirouse,  a  missionary  of  the  Catholic  order,  who 
with  two  laymen  exercises  his  influence  among  the  surrounding 
tribes. 

November  5.  We  remained  with  Mr.  McBane  overnight, 
and  returned  to  the  fort  to-day  by  way  of  the  Whitman  Mis- 
sion, now  occupied  by  Bumford  and  Brooke.  They  were  har- 
vesting, and  I  saw  as  fine  potatoes  as  ever  I  beheld,  many 
weighing  two  pounds,  and  one  five  and  a  half.  Their  carrots 
and  beets,  too,  were  of  extraordinary  size.  Mr.  Whitman  must 
have  done  a  great  deal  of  good  for  the  Indians.  His  mission 
was  situated  upon  a  fine  tract  of  land,  and  he  had  erected  a  saw 
and  grist  mill.  From  Bumford's  to  the  mouth  of  the  Touchet 
are  many  farms,  mostly  occupied  by  the  retired  employees  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  On  our  return  we  met  Pu-pu- 
mox-mox,  the  Walla  Walla  chief,  known  and  respected  far  and 
wide.  He  possesses  not  so  much  intelligence  and  energy  as 
Garry,  but  he  has  some  gifts  of  which  the  latter  is  deprived. 
He  is  of  dignified  manner,  and  well  qualified  to  manage  men. 
He  owns  over  two  thousand  horses,  besides  many  cattle,  and 
has  a  farm  near  that  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  On  the 
occurrence  of  the  Cuyuse  war,  he  was  invited  to  join  them,  but 
steadily  refused.  After  their  destruction  of  the  mission,  he  was 
asked  to  share  the  spoils,  and  again  refused.  They  then  taunted 
him  with  being  afraid  of  the  whites,  to  which  he  replied :  "  I  am 


404  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

not  afraid  of  the  whites,  nor  am  I  afraid  of  the  Cuyuses.  I  defy 
your  whole  band.  I  will  plant  my  three  lodges  on  the  border 
of  my  own  territory  at  the  mouth  of  the  Touchet,  and  there 
I  will  meet  you  if  you  dare  to  attack  me."  He  accordingly 
moved  his  lodges  to  this  point,  and  remained  there  three  or 
four  weeks.  Stanley  was  on  his  way  from  Walker  and  Eells's 
Mission  to  Whitman's  Mission,  and  indeed  was  actually  within 
three  miles  of  the  latter,  when  he  heard  of  the  terrible  tragedy 
which  had  been  enacted  there,  and  the  information  was  brought 
to  him  by  an  Indian  of  Pu-pu-mox-mox's  band.  Pu-pu-mox- 
mox  has  saved  up  a  large  amount  of  money  (probably  as  much 
as  $5000)  ;  still  he  is  generous,  and  frequently  gives  an  ox  and 
other  articles  of  value  to  the  neighbors.  Some  of  his  people 
having  made  a  contract  to  ferry  the  emigrants  across  the  river, 
who  crossed  the  Cascades  this  year,  and  then  having  refused  to 
execute  it,  he  compelled  them  to  carry  it  out  faithfully,  and, 
mounting  his  horse,  he  thrashed  them  until  they  complied.  He 
has  the  air  of  a  substantial  farmer. 

On  the  6th  Lieutenant  Donelson  and  on  the  7th  Cap- 
tain McClellan  reached  old  Fort  Walla  Walla  with  the 
main  parties.  Governor  Stevens  was  now  satisfied,  both 
from  his  own  observations  and  from  information  fur- 
nished by  Pembrum,  Pu-pu-mox-mox,  and  others,  among 
them  a  voyageur  who  had  actually  crossed  the  Cascades 
in  the  month  of  December,  that  it  was  not  yet  too  late 
to  send  a  party  across  these  mountains.  Accordingly  he 
directed  Mr.  Lander  to  proceed  up  the  Yakima  and  over 
the  Nahchess  Pass  in  order  to  run  the  line  to  the  Sound. 

The  governor  had  a  remarkable  faculty  for  getting  in- 
formation from  people  of  every  kind  and  condition,  Hud- 
son Bay  Company  men,  settlers,  voyageurs,  and  Indians, 
and  always  took  great  pains  to  learn  all  they  could  im- 
part, while  his  keen  and  sound  judgment  enabled  him  to 
distinguish  the  chaff  from  the  wheat  in  their  reports. 

Having  provided  fresh  animals  for  Mr.  Lander,  given 
him  his  written  instructions,  and  in  conversation  urged 
upon  him  the  entire  feasibility  of  the  survey  intrusted  to 


DESCENDING  THE  COLUMBIA  405 

him,  the  governor,  with  Mr.  Stanley,  on  November  8 
started  down  the  Columbia  in  a  canoe  managed  by  voy- 
ageurs,  and  reached  the  Dalles  on  the  12th.  Says  the 
governor :  — 

"  We  took  with  us  two  days'  provisions,  and  were  four  days 
in  reaching  the  Dalles,  having  been  detained  nearly  two  days  in 
camp  by  a  high  wind  which  blew  up  the  river,  but  we  eked  out 
our  scanty  stores  by  the  salmon  generously  furnished  us  by  the 
Indian  bands  near  us.  At  the  principal  rapids  I  got  out  and 
observed  the  movements  of  the  canoe  through  them,  and,  from 
the  best  examination  which  I  was  able  to  make,  I  became  at 
once  convinced  that  the  river  was  probably  navigable  for  steam- 
ers. I  remained  at  the  Dalles  on  the  13th  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  the  moving  forward  of  the  parties  and  for  herding  the 
animals,  looking  to  a  resumption  of  the  survey,  where  I  was  the 
guest  of  Major  Rains,  and  had  a  most  pleasant  time,  meeting 
old  acquaintances  and  making  new  ones  with  the  gentlemen  of 
the  post.  On  the  14th  I  reached  the  Cascades,  where  I  passed 
the  night.  Here  I  met  several  gentlemen  —  men  who  had 
crossed  the  plains,  and  who  had  made  farms  in  several  States 
and  in  Oregon  or  Washington — who  had  carefully  examined  the 
Yakima  country  for  new  locations,  and  who  impressed  me  with 
the  importance  of  it  as  an  agricultural  and  grazing  country. 
November  15  we  went  down  the  river  in  a  canoe,  and  on  the 
16th  reached  Vancouver,  where  I  remained  the  17th,  18th,  and 
19th  as  the  guest  of  Colonel  Bonneville,  and  where  I  also  be- 
came acquainted  with  the  officers  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 

"  Leaving  Vaucouver  on  the  20th,  I  reached  Olympia  on  the 
25th,  where  for  the  first  time  I  saw  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound. 
No  special  incident  worthy  of  remark  occurred  on  the  journey, 
except  that  I  was  four  days  going  up  the  Cowlitz  in  drench- 
ing rains,  and  two  nights  had  the  pleasure  of  camping  out.  I 
will  now  advise  voyageurs  in  the  interior,  when  they  get  sud- 
denly into  the  rains  west  of  the  Cascades,  to  take  off  their 
buckskin  underclothing.  I  neglected  to  do  this,  and  among  the 
many  agreeabilities  of  this  trip  up  the  Cowlitz  was  to  have  the 
underclothing  of  buckskin  wet  entirely  through.  I  was  enabled 
to  examine  the  country  pretty  carefully  all  the  way  to  Olympia, 


406  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  had  with  me  a  very  intelligent  man,  who  could  point  out 
localities  and  inform  me  about  the  country  not  in  view  of  the 
road ;  and  I  saw  that  not  only  was  it  entirely  practicable  for  a 
railroad  line  to  the  Sound,  but  that  the  work  was  light,  and  the 
material  for  construction  of  all  kinds  entirely  inexhaustible. 

"  After  considerable  delays  at  Vancouver,  the  gentlemen  of 
the  parties  under  Captain  McClellan  and  Lieutenant  Donelson 
arrived  at  Olympia  for  office  duty,  being  preceded  a  few  days 
by  Mr.  Lander,  who  for  reasons  not  conclusive  to  my  mind  did 
not  persevere  in  the  examination  of  the  Nahchess  Pass.  One 
of  his  reasons  for  not  continuing  his  examination  was  that  it 
was  not  on  the  railroad  line,  which  did  not  apply,  because  that 
fact  was  well  known  to  him  previously,  having  been  announced 
to  him  positively  in  my  written  instructions.  I  did  not  censure 
Mr.  Lander  for  not  continuing  on  this  duty,  as  I  know  the  per- 
plexity of  mind  in  which  one  is  placed  by  the  contradictory 
character  of  the  information  gained  ;  but  I  resolved  to  get  my 
line  to  the  Sound,  and  accordingly  dispatched  an  express  to  the 
Walla  Walla,  directing  Mr.  Tinkham  on  his  arrival  at  that 
point  to  cross  to  Puget  Sound  by  the  Snoqualmie  Pass,  my 
object  being  twofold,  —  to  get  at  some  facts  which  would  deci- 
sively settle  the  question  of  the  depth  of  snow,  in  regard  to 
which  Captain  McClellan  and  myself  differed,  as  well  as  really 
to  connect  our  work  with  the  Sound  itself." 

Thus  Lander  purposely  balked  the  task  intrusted  to 
him,  and  threw  away  another  fine  opportunity  of  achiev- 
ing credit  for  himself. 

Upon  McClellan's  arrival  at  Olympia,  Governor  Stevens 
directed  him  to  take  up  from  the  Sound  the  reconnois- 
sance  for  a  railroad  line  to  the  Snoqualmie  Pass,  con- 
necting with  his  examination  on  the  eastern  side,  which 
had  extended  three  miles  across  the  summit.  But  again 
McClellan  failed  to  accomplish  the  task,  deterred  as  usual 
by  the  reports  of  Indians,  and  magnified  difficulties. 
Leaving  Olympia  December  23,  with  Mr.  Minter,  civil 
engineer,  and  four  men,  he  spent  five  days  at  Steilacoom 
in  a  vain  attempt  to  procure  horses  and  guides  for  the 


CAPTAIN  McCLELLAN'S  FAILURE  407 

Snoqualmie  Falls,  intending  to  proceed  thence  on  snow- 
shoes.  Then  he  went  by  canoe  down  the  Sound  and  up 
the  Snohomish  River  to  the  falls,  and  pushed  forward  on 
foot  four  miles  to  the  prairie  just  above  the  falls. 

"I  found,"  he  reports,  "the  prairie  to  be  about  as  repre- 
sented, —  in  places  bare,  but  in  others  with  three  or  four  inches 
of  snow.  Leaving  my  companions  at  the  Indian  bivouac  to 
make  the  best  preparations  they  could  for  passing  the  night 
(for  we  had  neither  tent,  blanket,  nor  overcoat),  I  went  forward 
on  the  trail  with  two  Indians. 

"  As  soon  as  we  left  the  prairie  the  ground  became  entirely 
covered  with  snow ;  it  soon  became  a  foot  deep  in  the  shallowest 
spots,  and  was  constantly  increasing.  All  signs  of  a  trail  were 
obliterated,  —  the  underbrush  very  thick  and  loaded  with  snow, 
—  the  snow  unfit  for  snowshoes,  according  to  the  Indians.  I 
now  turned  back  to  our  bivouac,  and  there  awaited  the  arrival 
of  an  Indian  who  was  out  hunting,  and  who  was  said  to  possess 
much  information  about  the  country.  He  soon  arrived,  and 
proved  to  be  a  very  intelligent  Yakima,  whom  I  had  seen  on  the 
other  side  of  the  mountains  in  the  summer.  He  had  been  hunt- 
ing in  the  direction  I  wished  to  go,  and  stated  that  the  snow 
soon  increased  to  *  waist-deep '  long  before  reaching  the  Nooksai- 
Nooksai,  and  that  it  was  positively  impracticable  to  use  snow- 
shoes.  He  also  said  that  the  Indians  did  not  pretend  to  cross 
over  the  mountains  at  this  season,  but  waited  till  about  the  end 
of  March,  and  then  took  their  horses  over. 

"  Next  morning,  after  again  questioning  the  Indian,  I  reluc- 
tantly determined  to  return,  being  forced  to  the  conclusion  that, 
if  the  attempt  to  reach  the  pass  was  not  wholly  impracticable, 
it  was  at  least  inexpedient  under  all  the  circumstances  in  which 
I  was  placed." * 

Could  any  man  but  McClellan  have  seriously  asserted 
that  "  it  was  positively  impracticable  to  use  snowshoes  " 
on  snow,  and  that,  too,  on  the  authority  of  Indians,  who 
were  notoriously  unreliable,  and  who,  in  their  jealousy  of 
white  exploration,  habitually  exaggerated  the  difficulties 
1  Pacific  R.  R.  Reports,  vol.  i.  pp.  622-624. 


408  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

of  the  country  ?  This  seems  the  very  acme  of  imaginary 
obstacles.  It  was  January  10  that  McClellan  turned  back. 
Had  he  manfully  taken  to  his  snowshoes,  he  could  have 
reached  the  summit  in  three  or  four  days,  and  connected 
with  his  reconnoissance  on  the  eastern  side,  and  this  was 
soon  demonstrated  to  his  deep  disgust. 

Far  different  was  the  action  and  spirit  of  Tinkham. 
He  had  just  arrived  at  Walla  Walla  from  a  remarkable 
and  arduous  trip,  during  which  he  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains  by  the  Marias  Pass,  proceeded  to  Fort  Benton, 
recrossed  the  mountains  by  a  more  southern  pass  to  the 
Bitter  Root  valley,  and  thence  crossed  the  Bitter  Root 
Range  on  snowshoes  by  the  rugged  southern  Nez  Perces 
trail,  when  he  received  Governor  Stevens's  instructions 
to  push  to  the  Sound  by  way  of  the  Snoqualmie  Pass. 
Starting  from  Walla  Walla  on  January  7  with  two 
Indians,  he  proceeded  up  the  Yakima  to  its  head  on 
horseback,  and  there  leaving  his  animals,  he  crossed  the 
mountains  on  snowshoes,  and  reached  Seattle  on  January 
26,  seven  days  after  leaving  the  eastern  base  of  the  divide, 
and  twenty  days  from  Walla  Walla.  He  carefully  mea- 
sured the  depth  of  snow  and  reported :  — 

"  From  Lake  Kitchelus  to  the  summit,  some  five  miles,  and 
where  occurs  the  deepest  snow,  the  average  measurement  was 
about  six  feet,  but  frequently  running  as  high  as  seven  feet. 
Passing  on  to  the  west  side  of  the  Cascades,  the  snow  rapidly 
disappears ;  fourteen  miles  from  the  summit  there  was  but  eight 
inches  of  snow,  and  thence  it  gradually  faded  away  as  approach 
was  made  to  the  shores  of  the  Sound  :  for  only  a  few  miles  was 
the  snow  six  feet  deep ;  the  whole  breadth  over  twelve  inches 
deep  was  somewhat  less  than  sixty  miles  in  extent." 

Thus  Tinkham  actually  crossed  the  range  and  reached 
the  Sound,  making  the  very  trip  that  McClellan  pro- 
nounced "impracticable  "  and  would  not  even  try,  only 
ten  days  after  the  latter's  failure. 


THE  PIONEERS  409 

But  McClellan's  pride  was  hurt  by  this  incident.  He 
took  Governor  Stevens's  opinion  as  to  the  snow  question, 
and  his  action  in  sending  Tinkham  across  the  pass,  in 
high  dudgeon  as  a  reflection  on  himself,  and,  regardless 
of  the  true  friendship  shown  him  and  benefits  conferred 
upon  him  by  the  governor,  treated  him  with  marked  cold- 
ness. In  his  usual  generous  and  magnanimous  way,  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  took  no  notice  of  this  changed  attitude  of 
McClellan,  but  gave  him  all  possible  credit  in  his  reports. 
Some  years  afterwards,  when  Governor  Stevens  was  in 
Congress,  their  mutual  friend,  Captain  J.  G.  Foster,  came 
to  him,  and  said  that  McClellan  wished  to  meet  him  again 
and  renew  their  old  friendship.  Accordingly  they  met 
at  Willard's,  and  McClellan  appeared  as  cordial  and  agree- 
able as  of  old. 

Captain  McClellan  had  been  instructed,  after  complet- 
ing his  reconnoissance  of  the  Snoqualmie  Pass,  to  examine 
the  harbors  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Sound  as  far  as 
Bellingham  Bay.  But  he  gave  up  this  duty  also,  after 
proceeding  a  single  day's  trip  in  canoes  about  twenty 
miles  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Snohomish  River  to  the 
northern  extremity  of  McDonough  or  Camano  Island, 
where  he  encamped  for  the  night,  alleging  as  usual  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather  :  "  During  that  night  six  inches 
of  snow  fell  and  a  violent  gale  arose,  so  that  on  the  next 
day  we  were  unable  to  proceed.  On  the  next  day  (14th), 
the  wind  still  continuing  dead  ahead  and  very  violent,  I 
turned  back,"  etc. 

Yet  at  this  very  time  Governor  Stevens  was  making 
a  complete  tour  of  the  Sound  in  a  small  open  sailboat, 
regardless  of  wind  and  weather. 

McClellan  also  failed  to  do  anything  towards  opening 
the  military  road  across  the  Cascades  between  Steila- 
coom  and  Fort  Walla  Walla;  and  Lieutenant  Richard 
Arnold,  under   the  governor's  general   supervision,  re- 


410  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

lieved  him  of  the  charge  of  the  road,  and  completed  it  in 
1854. 

It  will  be  remembered  how  Governor  Stevens  had 
placed  this  road  in  McClellan's  hands,  had  furnished  him 
with  information  and  correspondence  relating  to  it,  and 
had  advised  him  to  consult  with  the  prominent  settlers  in 
regard  to  the  best  location  of  it.  Of  these  people  the 
governor  remarks  in  his  report :  — 

"  They  have  crossed  the  mountains,  and  made  the  long  dis- 
tance  from  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  to  their  homes  on  the 
Pacific ;  they  have  done  so  frequently,  having  to  cut  out  roads 
as  they  went,  and  knowing  little  of  the  difficulties  before  them. 
They  are  therefore  men  of  observation,  of  experience,  of  enter- 
prise, and  men  who  at  home  had  by  industry  and  frugality 
secured  a  competency  and  the  respect  of  their  neighbors ;  for  it 
must  be  known  that  our  emigrants  travel  in  parties,  and  those 
go  together  who  were  acquaintances  at  home,  because  they 
mutually  confide  in  each  other.  I  was  struck  with  the  high 
qualities  of  the  frontier  people,  and  soon  learned  how  to  con- 
fide in  them  and  gather  information  from  them." 

Contrast  with  this  McClellan's  assertions  in  his  letter  to 
Secretary  of  War  Davis,  of  September  18,  1853 :  — 

"  But  the  result  of  my  short  experience  in  this  country  has 
been  that  not  the  slightest  faith  or  confidence  is  to  be  placed  in 
information  derived  from  the  employees  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  or  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  Territory ;  in  every 
instance,  when  I  have  acted  upon  information  thus  obtained,  I 
have  been  altogether  deceived  and  misled." 

But  he  was  ready  enough  to  adopt  the  reports  of  Indi- 
ans in  support  of  obstacles  which  existed  chiefly  in  his 
own  imagination. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

ORGANIZING   CIVIL   GOVERNMENT. THE   INDIAN   SERVICE 

It  was  indeed  a  wild  country,  untouched  by  civiliza- 
tion, and  a  scanty  white  population  sparsely  sprinkled 
over  the  immense  area  that  were  awaiting  the  arrival  of 
Governor  Stevens  to  organize  civil  government,  and  shape 
the  destinies  of  the  future.  A  mere  handful  of  settlers, 
3965  all  told,  were  widely  scattered  over  western  Wash- 
ington, between  the  lower  Columbia  and  the  Strait  of 
Fuca.  A  small  hamlet  clustered  around  the  military 
post  at  Vancouver.  A  few  settlers  were  spread  wide  apart 
along  the  Columbia,  among  whom  were  Columbia  Lan- 
caster on  Lewis  River ;  Seth  Catlin,  Dr.  Nathaniel  Ostran- 
der,  and  the  Huntingtons  about  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz ; 
Alexander  S.  Abernethy  at  Oak  Point ;  and  Judge  Wil- 
liam Strong  at  Cathlamet.  Some  oystermen  in  Shoalwater 
Bay  were  taking  shellfish  for  the  San  Francisco  market. 
At  Cowlitz  Landing,  thirty  miles  up  that  river,  were  ex- 
tensive prairies,  where  farms  had  been  cultivated  by  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  under  the  name  of  the  Puget 
Sound  Agricultural  Company,  for  fifteen  years ;  and  here 
were  a  few  Americans  and  a  number  of  Scotch  and  Cana- 
dians, former  employees  of  that  company,  and  now  look- 
ing forward  to  becoming  American  citizens,  and  settling 
down  upon  their  own  "  claims  "  under  the  Donation  Act, 
which  gave  320  acres  to  every  settler,  and  as  much  more 
to  his  wife.  A  score  of  hardy  pioneers  had  settled  upon 
the  scattered  prairies  between  the  Cowlitz  Farms  and  the 
Sound  ;  among  them  were  John  R.  Jackson,  typical  Eng- 


412  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

lish  yeoman,  on  his  prairie,  ten  miles  from  the  Cowlitz ; 
S.  S.  Saunders,  on  Saunders's  Bottom,  where  now  stands 
the  town  of  Chehalis ;  George  Washington,  a  colored  man, 
on  the  next  prairie,  the  site  of  Centralia ;  Judge  Sid- 
ney S.  Ford  on  his  prairie  on  the  Chehalis  River,  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Skookumchuck  Creek ;  W.  B.  Good  ell, 
B.  L.  Henness,  and  Stephen  Hodgdon  on  Grand  Mound 
Prairie ;  A.  B.  Rabbeson  and  W.  W.  Plumb  on  Mound 
Prairie.  A  number  of  settlers  had  taken  up  the  prairies 
about  Olympia,  the  principal  of  whom  were  W.  0.  Bush, 
Gabriel  Jones,  William  Rutledge,  and  David  Kendrick 
on  Bush  Prairie ;  J.  N.  Low,  Andrew  J.  Chambers,  Na- 
than Eaton,  Stephen  D.  Ruddell,  and  Urban  E.  Hicks  on 
Chambers's  Prairie  ;  David  J.  Chambers  on  the  prairie  of 
his  name.  James  McAlister  and  William  Packwood  were 
on  the  Nisqually  Bottom,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  just 
north  of  which,  on  the  verge  of  the  Nisqually  plains,  was 
situated  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  post,  Fort  Nisqually, 
a  parallelogram  of  log  buildings  and  stockade,  under 
charge  of  Dr.  W.  F.  Tolmie,  a  warm-hearted  and  true 
Scot.  Great  herds  of  Spanish  cattle,  the  property  of  this 
company,  roamed  over  the  Nisqually  plains,  little  cared 
for  and  more  than  half  wild,  and,  it  is  to  be  feared,  occa- 
sionally fell  prey  to  the  rifles  of  the  hungry  American 
emigrants.  Two  miles  below  Olympia,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  bay,  was  located  a  Catholic  mission  under  Fathers 
Ricard  and  Blanchet,  where  were  a  large  building,  an 
orchard,  and  a  garden.  They  had  made  a  number  of  con- 
verts among  the  Indians. 

Towns,  each  as  yet  little  more  than  a  "  claim  "  and  a 
name,  but  each  in  the  hope  and  firm  belief  of  its  found- 
ers destined  to  future  greatness,  were  just  started  at 
Steilacoom,  by  Lafayette  Balch ;  at  Seattle,  by  Dr.  D. 
S.  Maynard,  H.  L.  Yesler,  and  the  Dennys ;  at  Port 
Townsend,  by  F.  W.  Petty  grove  and  L.  B.  Hastings ; 


SETTLERS  AND  SETTLEMENTS  413 

and  at  Bellingham  Bay,  by  Henry  Koder  and  Edward 
Eldridge. 

Save  the  muddy  track  from  the  Cowlitz  to  Olympia 
and  thence  to  Steilacoom,  and  a  few  local  trails,  roads 
there  were  none.  Communication  was  chiefly  by  water, 
almost  wholly  in  canoes  manned  by  Indians.  The  monthly 
steamer  from  San  Francisco  and  a  little  river  steamboat 
plying  daily  between  Vancouver  and  Portland  alone  vexed 
with  their  keels  the  mighty  Columbia ;  while  it  was  not 
until  the  next  year  that  reckless,  harum-scarum  Captain 
Jack  Scranton  ran  the  Major  Tompkins,  a  small  black 
steamer,  once  a  week  around  the  Sound,  and  had  no  rival. 
Here  was  this  great  wooded  country  without  roads,  the 
unrivaled  waterways  without  steamers,  the  adventurous, 
vigorous  white  population  without  laws,  numerous  tribes 
of  Indians  without  treaties,  and  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany's rights  and  possessions  without  settlement.  To 
add  to  the  difficulties  and  confusion  of  the  situation,  Con- 
gress, by  the  Donation  Acts,  held  out  a  standing  invitation 
to  the  American  settlers  to  seize  and  settle  upon  any  land, 
surveyed  or  unsurveyed,  without  waiting  to  extinguish 
the  Indian  title,  or  define  the  lands  guaranteed  by  solemn 
treaty  to  the  foreign  company,  and  already  the  Indians 
and  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  were  growing  daily  more 
and  more  restless  and  indignant  at  the  encroachments 
of  the  pushing  settlers  upon  their  choicest  spots.  Truly 
a  situation  fraught  with  difficulties  and  dangers,  where 
everything  was  to  be  done  and  nothing  yet  begun. 

It  is  a  great  but  common  mistake  to  suppose  that  the 
early  American  settlers  of  Washington  were  a  set  of  law- 
less, rough,  and  ignorant  borderers.  In  fact  they  com- 
pare favorably  with  the  early  settlers  of  any  of  the  States. 
As  a  rule  they  were  men  of  more  than  average  force  of 
character,  vigorous,  honest,  intelligent,  law-abiding,  and 
patriotic,  —  men  who  had  brought  their  families  to  carve 


414  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

out  homes  in  the  wilderness,  and  many  of  them  men  of 
education  and  of  standing  in  their  former  abodes.  Among 
them  could  be  found  the  best  blood  of  New  England,  the 
sturdy  and  kindly  yeomanry  of  Virginia  and  Kentucky, 
and  men  from  all  the  States  of  the  Middle  West  from 
Ohio  to  Arkansas.  Most  of  them  had  slowly  wended 
their  way  across  the  great  plains,  overcoming  every  ob- 
stacle, and  suffering  untold  privations;  others  had  come 
by  sea  around  Cape  Horn,  or  across  the  Isthmus.  They 
were  all  true  Americans,  patriotic  and  brave,  and  filled 
with  sanguine  hopes  of,  and  firm  faith  in,  the  future 
growth  and  greatness  of  the  new  country  which  they 
had  come  to  make  blossom  like  the  rose.  Governor  Ste- 
vens, as  has  been  shown,  at  once  appreciated  the  character 
of  these  people. 

After  the  arduous  and  exposed  journey  up  the  Cowlitz 
by  canoe,  —  where  the  Indian  crew  had  to  gain  foot  by 
foot  against  the  furious  current  of  the  flooded  river, 
oftentimes  pulling  the  frail  craft  along  by  the  overhang- 
ing bushes,  —  and  over  the  muddy  trail  by  horseback, 
Governor  Stevens  reached  Olympia  on  November  25, 
1853,  just  five  months  and  nineteen  days  since  starting 
from  St.  Paul.  He  found  here  awaiting  his  arrival  the 
new  territorial  secretary,  Charles  M.  Mason,  brother  to 
his  old  friend  Colonel  James  Mason,  of  the  engineers, 
who  had  just  come  out  by  the  Isthmus  route.  Mason 
was  of  distinguished  appearance  and  bearing,  with  fine 
dark  eyes  and  hair,  fair,  frank  face,  and  charming  but 
unobtrusive  manner.  He  was  highly  educated,  gifted 
with  unusual  ability,  and  a  noble  and  amiable  disposition, 
and  was  beloved  by  all  who  knew  him.  The  other  ter- 
ritorial officers  on  the  ground  were  :  Edward  Lander, 
chief  justice,  and  Victor  Monroe,  associate  justice ;  J.  V. 
Clendenin,  district  attorney;  J.  Patten  Anderson,  marshal; 
and  Simpson  P.  Moses,  collector  of  customs. 


CHARLES    H.    MASON 

Secretary  of  Washington  Territory 


ARRIVAL  AT  OLYMPIA  415 

Among  the  settlers  welcoming  their  new  governor  were : 
Edmund  Sylvester,  the  founder  of  Olympia  ;  Colonel  Wil- 
liam Cock,  Shirley  Ensign,  D.  R.  Bigelow,  George  A. 
Barnes,  H.  A.  Goldsborough,  John  M.  Swan,  C.  H.  Hale, 
Judge  B.  F.  Yantis,  Judge  Gilmore  Hayes,  John  G. 
Parker,  Quincy  A.  Brooks,  Dr.  G.  K.  Willard,  Colonel  M. 
T.  Simmons,  Captain  Clanrick  Crosby,  Ira  Ward,  James 
Biles,  Joseph  Cushman,  S.  W.  Percival,  Edwin  Marsh, 
R.  M.  Walker,  Levi  and  James  Offut,  J.  C.  Head,  W. 
Dobbins,  Isaac  Hawk,  Rev.  G.  F.  Whitworth,  Jared  S. 
Hurd,  H.  R.  Woodward,  B.  F.  Brown,  and  M.  Hurd. 

The  arrival  of  the  governor  and  his  party  was  the  great 
event  for  the  little  town,  as  well  as  for  the  new  Territory 
generally,  and  warm  and  hearty  was  his  greeting  by  the 
pioneers.  And  when  shortly  afterwards,  December  19, 
the  governor  delivered  a  lecture,  giving  a  description  of 
his  exploration  and  an  exposition  of  the  Northern  route, 
their  hopes  and  expectations  were  raised  to  the  highest 
point,  and  they  already  saw  in  the  mind's  eye  the  iron 
horse  speeding  across  the  plains  and  through  the  mighty 
forests,  and  the  full-flowing  tide  of  immigration  following 
its  advent. 

Without  delay  the  governor  issued  his  proclamation,  as 
empowered  by  the  organic  act  marking  out  and  establish- 
ing election  districts,  appointing  time  (January  30)  and 
places  for  holding  the  elections,  for  a  delegate  in  Con- 
gress and  members  of  the  legislature,  and  summoning 
that  body  to  meet  in  Olympia  on  the  28th  of  February. 

The  Indian  service  next  engaged  his  attention.  He 
appointed  Colonel  M.  T.  Simmons  Indian  agent  for  the 
Puget  Sound  Indians,  with  B.  F.  Shaw  and  0.  Cushman 
as  interpreters  and  assistants,  and  sent  them  to  visit  the 
different  tribes  and  bands,  to  assure  them  of  the  protec- 
tion and  guidance  of  the  Great  Father  in  Washington, 
to  urge  them  to  cultivate  the  soil  and  "  follow  the  white 


416  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

man's  road,"  that  is,  to  adopt  the  habits  of  civilized  life ; 
and  to  impress  upon  them  the  necessity  of  making  treaties, 
in  order  to  prevent  future  trouble  and  secure  them  peace 
and  safety.  He  also  appointed  A.  J.  Bolon  agent  for  the 
Indians  east  of  the  Cascades,  and  William  H.  Tappan 
agent  for  the  coast  and  river  Indians  on  the  Chehalis  and 
Columbia  rivers,  Gray's  Harbor,  and  Shoalwater  Bay. 

Governor  Stevens  deeply  commiserated  the  condition 
and  probable  future  of  the  Indians  under  his  charge,  and 
felt  the  greatest  interest  and  concern  in  their  welfare 
and  improvement.  How  wise,  generous,  and  beneficent  a 
policy  he  established  in  his  treaties,  with  what  great  kind- 
ness, justice,  and  firmness  he  uniformly  treated  them,  will 
be  shown  later  in  this  work.  It  is  enough  to  say  now 
that  the  Indians  came  to  know  him  as  their  friend  and 
protector,  and  to  this  day  hold  his  memory  in  reverence; 
that  the  treaties  he  made  and  the  policy  he  inaugurated 
have  remained  in  force  to  the  present  time,  and  that 
under  them  the  Indians  of  Washington  have  more  fully 
preserved  their  rights  and  improved  their  condition  than 
the  aborigines  of  any  other  State. 

Having  thus  started  the  civil  government  and  Indian 
service,  and  set  the  young  men  of  the  exploration  hard  at 
work  preparing  the  reports,  and,  as  already  related,  dis- 
patched McClellan  to  run  the  line  from  the  Sound  to  the 
Snoqualmie  Pass,  the  governor  took  the  Sarah  Stone, 
a  small  sailboat,  or  "  plunger,"  and,  accompanied  by  Mr. 
George  Gibbs,  went  down  the  Sound  in  person,  in  order, 
as  he  states,  "  to  visit  and  take  a  census  of  the  Indian 
tribes,  learn  something  of  the  general  character  of  the 
Sound  and  its  harbors,  and  to  visit  Vancouver  Island 
and  its  principal  port,  Victoria. 

"  In  this  trip  I  visited  Steilacoom,  Seattle,  Skagit  Head,  Penn's 
Cove,  the  mouths  of  the  Skagit  and  Samish  rivers,  Bellingham 
Bay,  passed  up  the  channel  De  Rosario  and  down  the  channel 


TOUR  OF  THE  SOUND  417 

De  Haro  to  Victoria,  and  on  my  return  made  Port  Townsend 
and  several  other  points  on  the  western  shore  of  the  Sound. 
We  examined  the  coal  mines  back  of  Seattle  and  Bellingham 
Bay,  and  saw  a  large  body  of  Indians  of  nearly  all  the  tribes. 
I  became  greatly  impressed  with  the  important  advantages  of 
Seattle,  and  also  with  the  importance  of  the  disputed  islands." 

In  a  report  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  written  immedi- 
ately after  this  trip,  he  remarks  :  — 

"  I  was  agreeably  impressed  with  Elliott's  Bay,  on  which 
are  the  flourishing  towns  of  Seattle  and  Alki,  and  I  agree  en- 
tirely in  the  opinion  of  Captain  McClellan  that  it  is  the  best 
harbor  on  the  Sound,  and  unless  the  approach  to  it  from  the 
pass  should,  on  a  more  minute  examination,  prove  less  favor- 
able than  to  some  other  point,  which  is  hardly  to  be  expected, 
that  it  is  the  proper  terminus  of  the  railroad." 

In  his  reports  Seattle  is  assumed  as  the  terminus  on 
the  Sound,  and  all  the  distances  measured  and  calcula- 
tions of  cost,  etc.,  are  made  with  reference  to  that  point 
as  the  western  end  of  the  route. 

The  above  is  a  provokingly  brief  and  meagre  record  of 
this  trip,  which  occupied  the  whole  month  of  January, 
the  same  month  that  McClellan,  after  balking  the  Sno- 
qualmie  survey,  turned  back  from  Camano  Island  and 
abandoned  the  examination  of  the  lower  Sound  in  conse- 
quence of  the  inclemency  of  the  weather.  The  governor's 
trip  could  have  been  no  holiday  excursion,  in  an  open 
sailboat  in  that  stormy,  rainy  season,  and  among  the 
swift  tides  and  fierce  gales  of  the  lower  Sound.  But  it 
was  fruitful  in  results.  He  grasped  with  the  acute  and 
discriminating  eye  of  an  engineer  the  whole  system  of 
waters  and  the  several  harbors  and  points  of  importance, 
talked  with  the  principal  men  of  each  place  and  gleaned 
all  the  information  they  could  furnish,  and  gained  a  com- 
prehensive and  correct  idea  of  the  numbers,  distribution, 
and  character  of  the  Indians. 

Moreover,  he  met   at  Victoria   Governor   Sir  James 


418  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Douglass  and  the  other  officers  there  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company,  and  discussed  with  them  their  claims 
within  our  borders.  He  had  now  visited  and  personally 
examined  all  but  one  (Fort  Okanogan)  of  that  company's 
posts  within  his  territory,  Colville,  Walla  Walla,  Van- 
couver, Cowlitz  Farms,  and  Nisqually,  and  had  discussed 
their  claims  with  the  officers  in  charge  of  them,  and  with 
the  chief  factor,  Sir  James  Douglass.  As  the  result  of 
this  investigation  he  made,  on  his  return  to  Olympia,  an 
exhaustive  report  to  the  Secretary  of  State,  setting  forth 
in  detail  the  actual  holdings  and  improvements  of  the 
company  at  each  point.  He  estimated  that  their  value 
could  not  exceed  $300,000,  and  recommended  that  a 
commission  be  appointed  to  adjudicate  the  claims,  and 
that  such  sum  be  appropriated  by  Congress  to  extinguish 
them.  Secretary  Marcy  adopted  his  views  and  recommen- 
dations, and  transmitted  them  to  Congress,  and  a  bill 
appointing  the  commission  and  making  the  appropriation 
passed  the  Senate  the  following  session,  but  failed  in  the 
House.  These  claims  remained  a  bone  of  contention 
between  the  countries  for  many  years,  until  finally  Great 
Britain,  by  means  of  a  joint  commission,  and  by  sticking 
to  the  most  extravagant  demands  with  true  bulldog  tena- 
city, succeeded  in  wringing  nearly  a  million  dollars  from 
the  United  States. 

At  the  election  Columbia  Lancaster  was  chosen  dele- 
gate in  Congress.  He  was  a  lawyer  by  profession,  and  a 
man  of  ability  and  education. 

The  legislature  assembled  on  the  appointed  day,  and 
Governor  Stevens  delivered  his  first  message.  Briefly 
reviewing  the  great  natural  resources  of  the  Territory 
and  its  commercial  advantages,  with  its  unrivaled  harbors 
and  location  to  control  in  due  time  the  trade  of  China 
and  Japan,  he  recommended  the  adoption  of  a  code  of 
laws,  the  organization  of  the  country  east  of  the  Cascades 


THE  FIRST  MESSAGE  419 

into  counties,  a  school  system  with  military  training  in 
the  higher  schools,  and  the  organization  of  the  militia. 
The  latter  he  declared  necessary  in  view  of  their  remote 
situation,  compelling  them  to  rely  upon  themselves  in  case 
of  war,  for  a  time  at  least,  and  to  enable  them  to  draw 
arms  and  ammunition  from  the  general  government, 
which  could  be  issued  only  to  an  organized  militia  force. 
He  dwelt  on  the  importance  of  extinguishing  the  Indian 
title  and  the  claims  of  the  Hudson  Bay  and  Puget  Sound 
Agricultural  Companies,  and  settling  the  boundary  line 
on  British  territory,  and  recommended  them  to  memori- 
alize Congress  in  behalf  of  these  measures.  He  informed 
them  that,  under  instructions  from  the  Secretary  of  State, 
he  had  already  notified  the  foreign  Fur  Company  that 
it  could  not  be  allowed  to  trade  with  Indians  within  the. 
Territory,  and  would  be  given  until  July  to  wind  up  theirj 
affairs.  He  also  urged  them  to  ask  Congress  for  a  sur- 
veyor-general and  a  land  office,  for  more  rapid  surveys 
of  public  land,  so  that  they  might  be  kept  in  advance  of 
settlement ;  to  amend  the  land  laws  by  facilitating  the 
acquisition  of  title,  and  by  placing  single  women  on  the 
same  footing  with  married  women ;  for  a  grant  of  lands 
for  a  university;  for  improved  mail  service;  for  roads 
to  Walla  Walla,  to  Vancouver,  and  to  Bellingham  Bay 
along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Sound ;  and  for  continu- 
ing the  geographical  and  geological  surveys  already  begun. 
He  boldly  advocated  the  construction  of  three  railroads 
across  the  continent,  undoubtedly  the  first  to  foresee  the 
necessity  of  more  than  a  single  line.  From  this  time  he 
always  advocated  three  transcontinental  roads. 

All  these  recommendations  were  promptly  adopted  by 
the  legislature,  except  as  regarded  the  militia,  concerning 
which  no  action  was  taken ;  an  unfortunate  neglect,  which 
left  the  people  almost  defenseless  when  the  Indian  war 
broke  out  less  than  two  years  later. 


420  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Soon  after  arriving  at  Olympia,  Governor  Stevens 
writes  his  friend  Halleck  announcing  his  arrival  and  the 
successful  achievement  of  the  exploration.  In  this  letter 
he  expresses  the  opinion  that  the  waters  of  San  Francisco 
Bay  and  Puget  Sound  should  both  have  their  connections 
with  the  States  by  railroad. 

He  asks  Halleck  how  lands  should  be  donated  and 
managed  for  the  establishment  of  a  university  in  Wash- 
ington Territory,  and  his  views  as  to  a  plan,  etc. 

January  9  he  writes  Joseph  Grinnell  &  Co.,  of  New 
York,  a  great  mercantile  and  shipping  and  whaling  firm, 
suggesting  to  them  the  establishing  of  a  whaling  and 
fishing  depot  on  one  of  the  harbors  of  the  lower  Sound. 

Halleck  writes  a  cordial  letter  in  reply  to  the  gov- 
ernor's, and  gives  him  a  glimpse  "  behind  the  curtain" 
of  California  and  Southern  Democratic  politics,  which 
throws  light  on  Jefferson  Davis's  action  in  shutting  off 
the  further  exploration  of  the  Northern  route. 

"  I  have  by  no  means  lost  my  interest  in  the  Democratic 
party,  or  the  great  public  questions  of  the  day.  The  first  and 
most  important  of  these  is  the  great  continental  railroad. 
Present  examinations  would  seem  almost  conclusive  against 
Benton's  central  project.  If  so,  this  road  must  run  from  some 
point  in  New  Mexico  to  some  pass  near  Los  Angeles,  and  thence 
to  San  Francisco  (and  San  Diego,  perhaps). 

"  If  this  southern  route  should  be  selected,  it  would  lead  to 
another  northern  route,  perhaps  the  one  explored  by  yourself  to 
Puget  Sound.  Even  if  a  single  road  should  be  adopted  on  the 
central  line,  it  must  fork  to  San  Francisco  and  Puget  Sound, 
the  two  great  termini  of  the  Pacific  coast. 

"  The  pro-slavery  extension  party  will  work  very  hard  against 
the  North  Pacific  States,  which  must  of  necessity  remain  free. 
The  first  branch  of  this  project  was  to  call  a  new  convention  in 
California  dividing  it  into  two  States,  making  the  southern  one 
a  slave  State,  with  San  Diego  as  the  port  and  terminus  of  a  rail- 
road through  Texas.  Circulars  and  letters  to  that  effect  were 
sent  to  pro-slavery  men  in  California,  and  the  attempt  made  to 


PREPARING  EXPLORATION  REPORTS  421 

divide  the  State,  but  it  failed.  The  next  move  was  to  acquire 
Lower  California  and  part  of  Sonora  and  Chihuahua,  making 
Guaymas  the  terminus,  and  the  newly  acquired  territory  slave 
States.  Two  separate  plans  were  set  on  foot  for  the  same  ob- 
ject, the  Walker  « filibustering '  expedition  against  Lower  Cali- 
fornia and  Sonora,  and  Gadsden's  treaty  with  Santa  Anna. 
The  former  is  thus  far  a  most  complete  and  contemptible 
failure,  but  rumor  says  the  latter  is  likely  to  be  successful,  and 
will  be  undoubtedly,  if  backed  with  sufficient  money.  If  the 
territory  is  acquired,  it  will  be  slave  territory,  and  a  most  tre- 
mendous effort  will  be  made  to  run  a  railroad  if  not  the  rail- 
road from  Texas  to  Guaymas,  with  a  branch  to  San  Francisco." 

Amid  all  these  pressing  and  engrossing  official  duties 
the  governor  found  time  to  purchase  his  future  home- 
stead in  Olympia,  Block  84,  and  also  a  tract  of  ten  acres 
a  little  farther  back,  where  Maple  Park  is  now  situated. 
He  also  contracted  for  the  purchase  of  the  north  half  of 
the  Walker  Donation  claim,  a  tract  of  three  hundred  and 
twenty  acres  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  south  of  the  town 
and  half  way  to  Tumwater.  All  these  tracts  were  then 
buried  in  the  dense  and  tall  fir  forest;  but  when  the 
country  was  cleared,  it  appeared  that  the  governor  had 
selected  them  with  unerring  judgment,  for  they  are  the 
finest  sites  in  the  town  or  vicinity. 

During  all  this  time  the  governor  and  the  officers  and 
scientific  men  of  the  exploration  were  hard  at  work  on 
the  reports  of  their  operations,  working  up  the  obser- 
vations, and  classifying  the  collections.  As  McClellan, 
Donelson,  Lander,  Suckley,  Gibbs,  Arnold,  Tinkham, 
and  Grover  successively  reached  Olympia,  bringing  fresh 
contributions  of  information  gathered  in  their  trips,  each 
took  hold  of  the  work.  The  offices  of  the  survey  were 
in  two  small,  one-storied  buildings  on  the  west  side  of 
Main  Street,  between  Second  and  Third,  hired  of  Father 
Ricard,  and  presented  a  busy  scene,  filled  with  desks, 
tables,  instruments,  collections,  maps,  and  papers,  among 


422  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

which  the  young  men  were  writing  and  working  for  dear 
life. 

Lieutenant  Arnold  and  Dr.  Suckley  executed  the  recon- 
noissances  intrusted  to  them  most  satisfactorily.  Lieu- 
tenant Grover,  starting  from  Fort  Benton  in  January 
with  his  dog-train,  crossed  the  main  range  to  the  Bitter 
Koot  valley,  finding  only  eight  inches  of  snow,  and  thence 
continued  with  horses  down  Clark's  Fork  and  Pend 
Oreille  Lake  and  to  the  Dalles.  On  reaching  Vancou- 
ver the  governor  dispatched  an  express  to  Lieutenant 
Mullan  by  Spokane  Garry,  who  had  accompanied  him  to 
that  point,  and  in  January  he  sent  wagonmaster  Higgins 
with  a  second  express  to  the  same  point.  Thus,  by  these 
expresses  going  and  returning,  he  had  the  route  between 
the  Bitter  Eoot  valley  and  Olympia  traversed  four  times 
in  addition  to  Grover' s  trip.  Lieutenant  Mullan  crossed 
the  main  continental  divide  six  times  that  winter,  extend- 
ing his  trips  to  Fort  Hall,  on  the  upper  Snake  Eiver, 
and  traveling  nearly  a  thousand  miles.  The  explora- 
tions made  by  the  young  officers,  including  Tinkham 
and  Doty,  were  very  remarkable  and  valuable,  and  were 
attended  at  times  with  great  exertions  and  privations, 
and  full  accounts  of  them  are  given  in  the  final  report. 

Thus,  by  his  winter  posts  and  parties,  the  governor 
was  solving,  in  the  most  complete  and  satisfactory  man- 
ner, the  questions  of  mountain  snows  and  climates.  From 
Olympia  he  reported  to  Secretary  of  War  Davis  the  re- 
sults of  the  explorations,  and  particularly  on  these  points. 
He  urged  that  the  posts  be  continued,  and  a  closer  exam- 
ination made  of  the  more  favorable  mountain  passes,  and 
that  lines  be  surveyed  from  the  Northern  route  to  Great 
Salt  Lake  and  to  San  Francisco. 

At  this  juncture  Governor  Stevens  received  a  curt  and 
peremptory  order  from  Secretary  Davis,  disapproving  his 
arrangements,  and  ordering  him  to  disband  the  winter 


FURTHER  EXPLORATIONS  STOPPED.  423 

parties  and  bring  his  operations  to  a  close.  Acknow- 
ledging the  receipt  of  the  order,  February  13,  he  declares 
that  it  shall  be  promptly  obeyed,  and  continues  :  — 

"  But  I  earnestly  submit  to  the  department  the  importance 
of  the  continuation  of  these  surveys,  and  indulge  the  hope  that 
Congress  will  make  liberal  appropriations,  both  in  a  deficiency 
bill  and  in  the  general  appropriation  bill,  in  order  that  the  field 
now  so  well  entered  upon  may  be  fully  occupied. 

"  I  will  respectfully  call  the  attention  of  the  department  to 
the  peculiar  circumstances  of  my  exploration,  which  will,  it 
seems  to  me,  explain  the  exceeding  of  the  appropriation,  with 
every  desire  and  effort  on  my  part  so  to  arrange  the  scale  and 
conduct  it  as  not  to  involve  a  deficiency.  The  field  was  almost 
totally  new,  rendering  it  impossible  to  form  an  estimate.  Much 
work  of  reconnoissance  had  to  be  done,  which  had  previously 
been  done  for  all  the  other  routes,  before  a  direction  could  be 
given  to  the  railroad  examinations  and  estimates  proper.  Un- 
foreseen expenses  in  the  way  of  presents,  etc.,  had  to  be  incurred 
to  conciliate  the  Indian  tribes,  for  our  route  was  the  only  one, 
so  far  as  I  was  informed,  that  at  the  time  was  deemed  particu- 
larly dangerous ;  and  the  investigation  of  the  question  of  snow 
was  a  vital  and  fundamental  one,  essential  to  making  any  reliable 
report  at  all,  and  included  within  the  express  requirements  of 
the  original  instructions.  I  deeply  regretted  the  deficiency 
which  I  found  impending  at  Fort  Benton,  and  I  took  at  that 
place  that  course  which  I  believed  Congress  and  the  department 
would  have  taken  under  the  circumstances." 

Moreover,  to  provide  funds  indispensable  for  the  imme- 
diate needs  of  the  survey,  the  governor  had  drawn  on 
Corcoran  and  Riggs,  government  bankers  in  Washington, 
to  the  amount  of  $16,000,  and  these  drafts  all  went  to 
protest. 

But  the  Secretary's  order  arrived  too  late  to  frustrate 
Governor  Stevens's  thoroughgoing  measures  for  deter- 
mining the  snow  question.  The  problem  was  solved 
before  the  work  of  the  winter  parties  could  be  arrested, 
and  this  most  important  point  was  clearly  and  satisfac- 


424  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

torily  set  forth  in  the  report.  The  much-feared  moun- 
tain snows  were  found  to  be  greatly  exaggerated,  and  to 
present  no  real  obstacle  to  the  operation  of  railroads.  In 
this  respect  the  report  has  been  fully  confirmed  by  sub- 
sequent experience,  and  in  fact  less  difficulty  has  been 
encountered  from  snow  in  the  mountains  than  on  the 
plains  of  Dakota. 

He  decided,  therefore,  to  hasten  to  Washington  the 
earliest  moment  his  threefold  duties  of  the  governorship, 
Indian  service,  and  the  exploration  would  admit  of,  filled 
with  the  fixed  determination  to  prevent  the  discontinu- 
ance of  the  exploration,  to  secure  the  payment  of  the 
protested  drafts,  and  to  enlighten  the  government  as  to 
the  necessity  of  the  Blackfoot  council,  and  of  extinguish- 
ing the  Indian  title  within  his  own  Territory. 

To  justify  his  going  without  leave  first  obtained,  the 
legislature  passed  a  joint  resolution  that  "  no  disadvan- 
tage would  result  to  the  Territory  should  the  governor 
visit  Washington,  if,  in  his  judgment,  the  interests  of 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  survey  could  thereby  be 
promoted." 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

RETURN   TO    WASHINGTON. REPORT    OF    EXPLORATION 

Governor  Stevens  left  Olympia  on  March  26,  and, 
proceeding  by  way  of  the  Cowlitz  to  the  Columbia,  and 
by  steamer  down  the  coast,  reached  San  Francisco  early 
in  April.  Here  he  found  a  group  of  his  old  friends  and 
brother  officers,  including  Mason,  Halleck,  and  Folsom, 
and  how  warmly  he  was  received  by  them,  and  how  inter- 
esting they  found  his  accounts  of  the  exploration,  the 
Indians,  and  the  many  wild  and  new  scenes  he  had  passed 
through,  may  be  imagined.  His  arrival  attracted  much 
public  attention ;  his  exploration  was  deemed  a  very  im- 
portant and  remarkable  one,  and  one  conducted  with 
remarkable  ability  and  success ;  and  in  Music  Hall,  on 
Bush  Street,  April  13,  before  a  crowded  audience,  and 
introduced  by  Mayor  Garrison,  he  gave  an  able  address 
upon  the  Northern  route.  In  this  address  he  boldly 
advocated  three  railroads  across  the  continent,  declaring 
that  the  subject  of  internal  communications  was  too  great 
to  be  treated  from  a  sectional  point  of  view.  He  demon- 
strated the  favorable  character  of  the  route  and  country 
he  had  explored,  the  navigability  of  the  upper  Columbia 
and  Missouri,  and  the  little  obstruction  from  snows.  The 
impression  made  by  this  address  is  reflected  in  the  edi- 
torial of  the  San  Francisco  "  Herald : "  — 

"  Of  all  the  surveys  ordered  by  the  general  government  at 
Washington  with  a  view  to  the  selection  of  a  route  for  a  rail- 
road across  the  continent,  that  intrusted  to  Governor  Stevens 
is  by  far  the  most  satisfactory.     He  took  the  field  in  June  last, 


426  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

having  left  the  Mississippi  River  on  the  15th  of  that  month, 
and,  moving  steadily  westward,  —  throwing  out  parties  on  the 
right  and  left  of  his  line,  surveying  every  stream  of  any  con- 
sequence, exploring  every  pass  again  and  again,  —  he  has 
accomplished  in  that  time  the  survey  of  a  belt  extending  two 
thousand  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  from  one  hundred  and 
fifty  to  two  hundred  miles  from  north  to  south.  In  the  Rocky 
Mountains  his  explorations  have  extended  over  four  hundred 
miles  from  north  to  south,  and  in  the  Cascade  Mountains  over 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  While  the  main  work  of  recon- 
noissance  was  going  on,  the  auxiliary  departments  of  geology, 
natural  history,  botany,  etc.,  were  prosecuted  with  vigor  and 
success.  The  results  obtained  in  so  short  a  space  of  time  are, 
as  far  as  we  are  aware,  unparalleled. 

"The  route  thus  occupied  by  Governor  Stevens  and  his 
party  is  the  route  of  the  two  great  rivers  across  the  continent, 
the  Missouri  and  Columbia.  Their  tributaries  interlock ;  the 
whole  mountain  range  is  broken  down  into  spurs  and  valleys, 
and  no  obstruction  exists  from  snow.  The  whole  route  is  emi- 
nently practicable.  The  highest  grade  will  be  fifty  feet  to  the 
mile.  The  summit  level  of  the  road  will  be  about  five  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea.  There  will  be  but  one  tunnel.  The  snows 
will  be  less  than  in  the  New  England  States.  The  Missouri 
River  has  been  surveyed,  and  found  to  be  navigable  for  steamers 
to  the  Falls,  about  seven  hundred  miles  from  Puget  Sound,  and 
five  hundred  miles  to  the  point  where  the  main  Columbia  is 
first  reached  by  railroad  from  the  East.  This  five  hundred 
miles  is  in  part  along  Clark's  Fork,  affording  one  hundred 
miles  navigable  for  steamers. 

"  The  results  of  the  survey  may  be  summed  up  as  follows  : 
Three  lines  run  from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains; nine  passes  explored  in  the  Rocky  Mountains;  three  lines 
run  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Columbia  River  and 
Puget  Sound  ;  the  Cascades  explored  from  the  Columbia  to  the 
49th  parallel ;  Puget  Sound  examined  with  reference  to  a  rail- 
road depot;  the  fact  that  not  the  slightest  obstruction  will  occur 
from  snow  established  beyond  controversy." 

After  a  short  stay  in  San  Francisco,  Governor  Stevens 
took  the  steamer  for  the  Isthmus,  and  reached  New  York 


JEFFERSON  DAVIS  CONDEMNS  NORTHERN  ROUTE    427 

in  May,  and  the  next  morning  had  a  joyful  reunion 
with  his  wife  and  little  girls  in  Newport.  After  his 
severe  and  long-continued  labors,  the  sea  voyage  com- 
pelled him  to  a  much-needed  rest.  On  such  voyages  he 
threw  off  his  wonted  intense,  high  pressure  mood  of  work, 
and,  with  mind  relaxed,  enjoyed  the  soothing  influence 
of  old  Neptune. 

He  proceeded  immediately  to  Washington  with  his 
family,  except  his  son,  who  was  at  school  at  Phillips 
Academy  in  Andover,  and  who  joined  him  later  at  the 
summer  vacation,  and  took  rooms  at  the  National  Hotel 
on  Pennsylvania  Avenue.  A  great  deal  was  still  to  be 
done  to  complete  the  report  of  the  exploration,  and  with 
Tinkham,  Osgood,  and  other  assistants  he  drove  it  with 
his  accustomed  vigor.  On  June  30  he  submitted  it  to 
the  department,  the  first  report  of  all  the  routes,  although 
it  covered  the  greatest  field,  and  was  by  far  the  most 
comprehensive  and  exhaustive. 

Secretary  Davis,  recognizing  that  in  his  measures  for 
prosecuting  the  survey  Governor  Stevens  was  actuated 
solely  by  zeal  for  the  public  service,  submitted  an  esti- 
mate to  cover  the  deficiency,  which  was  duly  appropri- 
ated, and  the  protested  drafts  were  honored.  General 
Hunt  gives  the  following  incident,  which  shows  the  con- 
fidence Governor  Stevens's  old  friends  had  in  his  ability 
to  carry  his  points :  — 

"  I  followed  him  in  the  thorough  work  he  made  of  the  North- 
ern Pacific  Eailway  survey,  —  of  his  row  with  Jeff  Davis  for 
overrunning  in  his  expenditures  the  amount  assigned  him,  and 
so  preventing  Jeff's  designs  of  defeating  that  road.  In  1854  I 
had,  at  Fort  Monroe,  occasion  to  describe  your  father  to  old 
Major  Holmes,  a  classmate  of  Jeff.  He  went  to  Washington, 
and  on  his  return  told  me,  '  Your  friend  Stevens  is  ruined. 
Davis  refuses  to  recommend  to  Congress  to  make  good  the  ex- 
penditures as  contrary  to  orders.  It  will  ruin  Stevens.'  '  Wait 
awhile,'  said  I;  'I  see  by  the  last  "Union"  that  Stevens  has 


428  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

just  arrived  en  route  to  Washington  at  Panama.  He  will 
leave  Jeff  nowhere  1 '  Soon  after  he  arrived  in  Washington, 
was  followed  by  an  appropriation  covering  all  his  bills,  and  so 
Jeff  failed  all  round." 

Secretary  Davis  was  in  fact  astonished  and  deeply 
disappointed  at  the  results  of  the  survey,  and  the  very 
favorable  picture  of  the  Northern  route  and  country 
given  in  Governor  Stevens's  report.  A  leader  among 
the  Southern  public  men,  who  were  so  soon  to  bring  on 
the  great  rebellion,  of  which  he  was  to  be  the  official 
head,  he  had  set  his  heart  upon  the  Southern  route,  and 
was  anxious  to  establish  its  superiority  to  all  others  and 
secure  its  adoption  as  the  national  route,  in  order  to 
aggrandize  his  own  section.  He  could  ill  brook,  there- 
fore, Governor  Stevens's  clear  and  vivid  description  of 
the  Northern  route,  showing  its  great  superiority  in  soil 
and  climate,  the  easy  grades,  absence  of  snow,  and  acces- 
sibility by  inland  river  navigation.  He  chose  to  consider 
the  accounts  overdrawn  as  the  best  way  of  sustaining  his 
chosen  route.  In  his  report  to  Congress,  transmitting 
the  surveys  of  the  several  routes,  he  took  great  pains 
to  belittle  the  results  of  Governor  Stevens's  labors  and 
disparage  the  Northern  route.  In  his  comparison  of 
routes,  he  arbitrarily  increased  the  governor's  estimate 
of  cost  from  $117,121,000  to  $150,871,000,  or  nearly 
$38,000,000 ;  magnified  the  physical  difficulties ;  con- 
demned the  agricultural  resources ;  declared  that  "  the 
country  west  of  the  Kocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  slope 
may  likewise  be  described  as  one  of  general  sterility," 
and  that  "the  severely  cold  character  of  the  climate 
throughout  the  whole  route,  except  the  portion  west  of 
the  Cascade  Mountains,  is  one  of  its  unfavorable  fea- 
tures." He  ignored  the  governor's  statements,  and  Tink- 
ham's  reconnoissance  as  to  the  snow  in  the  Snoqualmie 
Pass,  and  the  practicability  of  the  latter,  and,  quoting 


GOVERNOR  STEVENS'S  REJOINDER  429 

McClellan  with  approval,  declared  that  "the  snow  is 
twenty  feet  deep,  the  pass  barely  practicable,  and  the 
information  now  possessed  is  sufficient  to  decide  against 
this  route,' '  It  is  significant  that  he  pays  a  warm  com- 
pliment to  McClellan,  remarking  that  "  his  examination 
presents  a  reconnoissance  of  great  value,  and,  though  per- 
formed under  adverse  circumstances,  exhibits  all  the  in- 
formation necessary  to  determine  the  practicability  of  this 
portion  of  the  route."  And  this  of  an  officer  who  had 
consumed  a  whole  month  in  moving  one  hundred  and 
eighty  miles ;  lay  another  month  in  camp  in  the  Yakima 
valley,  making  only  the  most  cursory  examinations;  found 
the  passes  non-existent,  or  "  impracticable ;"  reported  the 
snow  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  deep  on  the  credit  of 
Indians ;  ignobly  quailed  at  inclement  weather  and  snows, 
which  other  men  bravely  faced  and  overcame ;  and  gen- 
erally condemned  the  country,  and  vilified  the  hardy 
pioneers.  In  sober  truth  McClellan  found  credit  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Secretary,  not  for  what  he  accomplished,  but 
for  what  he  failed  to  accomplish,  for  his  unfavorable  and 
condemnatory  report  on  the  route  and  the  country,  which 
was  precisely  the  kind  of  testimony  the  Secretary  wanted. 
The  country,  stigmatized  as  one  of  "  general  sterility," 
and  which  Governor  Stevens  pronounced  a  fine,  arable 
region  of  great  fertility,  is  now  one  of  the  great  wheat- 
fields  of  the  country,  yielding  twenty  to  thirty  million 
bushels  a  year. 

Moreover,  Mr.  Davis  manifested  a  dissatisfied  and 
fault-finding  spirit  towards  the  governor.  On  one  occa- 
sion, when  the  latter  was  calling  on  him,  and  asking  his 
attention  to  some  matter  of  importance  connected  with 
the  survey,  Davis  interrupted  him  with  marked  impa- 
tience, and  intimated  that  he  had  no  time  to  hear  him. 
"I  do  not  come  here  to  talk  with  Jefferson  Davis," 
exclaimed  the  governor  with  dignity,  "but  to  confer  with 


430  ISAAC  INGALLS   STEVENS 

the  Secretary  of  War  upon  the  public  business  intrusted 
to  my  charge,  and  I  demand  his  attention."  The  Secre- 
tary at  once  gave  him  full  and  considerate  hearing  until 
the  matter  was  fully  gone  into,  and  as  the  governor  took 
his  leave,  followed  him  to  the  door,  and  frankly  apolo- 
gized for  his  momentary  rudeness.  Jefferson  Davis  was 
not  without  generous  and  magnanimous  traits,  and  appre- 
ciated the  earnest  and  sincere  character  of  his  caller.  But 
he  put  a  stop  to  further  work  on  the  Northern  route, 
prevented  any  more  appropriations  for  it,  and  kept  up 
his  fight  against  it.  Some  time  afterwards,  in  speaking 
of  the  route  to  a  mutual  friend,1  he  declared :  "  Governor 
Stevens  is  a  man  of  great  ability,  and  of  upright  and 
high-toned  character,  but  he  has  entirely  misconceived 
and  exaggerated  the  agricultural  resources  of  the  North- 
ern route.  The  fact  is,  he  has  no  knowledge  of  agricul- 
tural soils  or  conditions.,,  When  this  was  repeated  to 
the  governor  he  remarked  :  "  Indeed,  perhaps  Mr.  Davis 
does  not  know  that  I  was  brought  up  on  a  farm  until  my 
seventeenth  year." 

But  Governor  Stevens  indulged  in  no  complaints  at 
this  unworthy  treatment.  He  knew  that  the  information 
given  in  his  report  was  too  well  founded  and  abundant 
to  be  refuted  by  mere  official  rancor.  Despite  the  depri- 
vation of  funds,  he  continued  the  work  of  exploration, 
survey,  and  observation  for  the  next  three  years,  making 
free  use  of  the  Indian  agents  and  volunteer  troops  under 
his  command,  and  unsparing  in  his  own  personal  exer- 
tions, and  on  February  7,  1859,  submitted  to  the  War 
I  Department  "  My  final  report  of  the  explorations  made  by 
me  and  under  my  direction  in  the  years  1853,  1854,  and 
1855,  to  determine  the  practicability  of  the  Northern 
route  for  a  railroad  to  the  Pacific."  This  report,  pub- 
lished by  order  of  Congress  in  two  large  quarto  volumes, 

1  Major  George  T.  Clark. 


GOVERNOR  STEVENS'S  REJOINDER  431 

as  Parts  I.  and  II.,  vol.  xii.,  Pacific  Railroad  Reports,  con- 
tains over  eight  hundred  pages,  with  plates,  tables,  and 
views,  and  most  fully  sustains  the  earlier  report,  besides 
adding  an  immense  amount  of  new  information.  And 
this  was  Governor  Stevens's  answer  to  Secretary  Davis. 

But  the  governor  found  the  sultry  summer  in  Wash- 
ington a  very  trying  one,  in  cramped  quarters,  overbur- 
dened with  the  voluminous  data  and  details  of  the  report, 
and  subject  to  many  annoyances.  Unfortunately,  the 
meteorological  and  astronomical  observations,  while  in 
care  of  Lieutenant  Donelson,  were  lost,  presumably  on 
the  Isthmus,  by  the  carelessness  of  the  express  company, 
and  could  not  be  recovered,  although  that  officer  re- 
turned to  San  Francisco  expressly  in  search  of  them, 
and  this  loss  caused  serious  embarrassment.  The  gov- 
ernor found,  too,  that  some  of  the  scientific  corps  were 
proposing  to  publish  as  their  own  separate  work  the 
materials  gathered  as  members  of  the  exploration,  and 
had  to  adopt  decided  and  severe  measures  to  prevent  the 
barefaced  attempt.  During  great  part  of  July  he  was 
seriously  ill,  and  incapacitated  from  work. 

In  addition  to  all  these  labors  and  cares,  he  obtained! 
the  sanction  of  the  government  for  holding  the  Blackf oot 
council  he  had  so  much  at  heart,  for  which  he  was  ap- 
pointed a  commissioner,  and  allotted  $10,000  for  assem- 
bling and  bringing  the  western  Indians  to  Fort  Benton. 
His  views  and  recommendations  in  regard  to  treating  with 
the  Indians  of  Washington  Territory,  and  purchasing 
their  lands,  were  also  adopted,  and  he  was  appointed  the 
commissioner  to  make  such  treaties.  As  already  stated, 
his  recommendations  in  regard  to  the  claims  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company  were  adopted  by  the  Secretary  of 
State.  Congress  appropriated  $30,000  for  a  wagon-road 
from  Fort  Benton  to  Walla  Walla,  a  matter  which  the 
governor  strenuously  urged ;  and  also  amended  the  land 


432  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

laws,  created  the  office  of  surveyor-general,  and  made  ap- 
propriations for  universal  surveys  and  mail  service.  To 
all  these  matters  "  Governor  Stevens  addressed  himself 
with  the  energy,  ability,  and  straightforwardness  which 
were  his  characteristics,  supplementing  the  feebler  efforts 
of  Lancaster,  and,  with  Lane  of  Oregon,  coming  to  the 
rescue  of  the  most  important  bills  for  Washington,  and 
really  doing  the  work  of  the  delegate."  1  Notwithstand- 
ing Secretary  Davis's  attitude  on  the  Northern  route, 
Governor  Stevens  seems  to  have  lost  none  of  his  influ- 
ence with  the  administration.  When  about  to  return  to 
the  Pacific  coast,  President  Pierce  invited  him  to  write 
him  personally  and  frequently. 

1  Bancroft's  Pacific  States,  vol.  xxvi.  p.  88. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

CROSSING   THE   ISTHMUS 

Governor  Stevens,  with  his  family,  consisting  of  his 
wife,  four  children,  the  two  youngest  being  only  two  and 
four  years  old  respectively,  and  the  nurse  Ellen,  a  bonny 
young  Irish  woman,  sailed  from  New  York,  September 
20,  1854,  en  route  for  his  far  Western  home.  The  vessel 
was  packed  full,  with  thirteen  hundred  passengers.  The 
food  was  execrable,  meats  and  poultry  tainted  and  almost 
uneatable.  Ice  was  charged  extra,  twenty-five  cents  a 
pound.  The  second  cabin  table  rivaled  at  times  a  scene 
from  Bedlam.  The  hungry  passengers  would  often  hurl 
the  spoiled  chickens  overboard  amid  loud  complaints, 
laughter,  and  the  imitated  crowing  and  cackle  of  cocks 
and  hens.  Christy's  minstrels  were  on  board,  bound  to 
San  Francisco,  —  a  reckless,  noisy,  drinking  crew,  but 
fine  performers,  both  instrumental  and  vocal,  and  always 
ready  and  willing  to  entertain  the  passengers  with  their 
pleasing  melodies.  The  best  state-rooms  were  allotted  the 
governor  and  family,  with  seats  next  the  captain  at  table, 
but  the  younger  children  had  to  sit  at  the  second  table. 
The  ship  put  in  at  Havana  for  a  day,  where  the  family 
enjoyed  a  delicious  repast  of  broiled  birds  on  toast  and 
guava  jelly  at  the  Dominica  restaurant,  and  viewed  the 
cathedral  and  tomb  of  Columbus.  Crossing  the  Carib- 
bean sea  in  hot  and  sultry  weather,  they  arrived  at  Aspin- 
wall  on  the  29th. 

This  place  was  squalid,  dreary,  and  repulsive.  Low, 
flat,  swampy  morass,  some  filled-in  land ;  great  pools  of 


434  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

dirty,  green,  stagnant  water ;  a  f rail,  rickety  wharf,  which 
the  ship  hardly  dared  touch  lest  it  fall  over;  a  railroad 
track  along  the  shore ;  a  hundred  yards  back,  a  number 
of  large,  cheap-built  wooden  houses,  like  overgrown  tene- 
ment houses,  unpainted  and  dilapidated ;  the  street  a  bed 
of  mud,  littered  with  broken  boards  and  refuse  lumber 
and  piles  of  rubbish;  black  pigs  roaming  and  rooting 
about;  many  rascally  and  worthless-looking  natives,  in 
whom  the  negro  predominated,  —  the  whole  thoroughly 
wet  down  by  heavy,  drenching,  tropical  showers,  —  such 
was  Aspinwall,  as  the  disappointed  passengers  landed, 
and  sought  the  shelter  of  the  buildings  supposed  to  be 
hotels,  but  where  almost  everything  was  lacking  except 
extortionate  charges. 

After  a  comfortless  night  and  miserable  breakfast,  the 
party  embarked  on  the  cars,  and  proceeded  about  twenty 
miles  to  the  "  Summit,"  which  was  half  way  to  Panama, 
and  as  far  as  the  road  then  extended,  and  which  was 
reached  about  noon,  and  learned  that  the  rest  of  the  way 
across  had  to  be  made  on  horse  or  mule  back.  There 
were  no  animals  ready,  but  it  was  announced  that  the 
party  would  have  to  wait  until  the  next  morning,  when 
plenty  of  mules  would  be  provided.  Some  railroad  sheds, 
a  few  native  huts,  and  a  huge  pavilion,  consisting  of  an 
immense  pyramidal  thatched  roof  surmounting  low  sides 
mostly  open,  comprised  the  only  shelters,  and  into  them 
the  passengers  flocked. 

The  great  pavilion  belonged  to  a  huge,  jet  black 
Jamaica  negro,  named  Carusi,  and  was  not  partitioned 
off,  consisting  of  nothing  indeed  but  the  earthen  floor  and 
the  roof  above  it,  with  the  low  sides.  At  night  this  rude 
structure  was  thronged  with  the  weary  passengers.  Deli- 
cate ladies  and  children,  rough  men,  and  people  of  every 
kind  and  condition  fairly  covered  the  floor,  or  rather 
ground,  seeking  rest  as  best  they  could;  while  in  the 


CROSSING  THE  ISTHMUS  435 

centre  of  the  apartment,  in  a  big,  old-fashioned,  four- 
poster  bed,  lay  the  gigantic  Carusi  side  by  side  with  his 
fat  wife,  their  ebony  faces  contrasting  with  the  white  pil- 
lows and  sheets.  The  minstrels  improved  the  occasion 
with  banjo  and  song  until  late  at  night,  when  some  of 
them,  becoming  drunk,  began  disturbing  the  company 
with  oaths  and  obscene  language,  but  Governor  Stevens 
rebuked  them  in  such  stern  and  minatory  manner  that 
they  were  cowed,  and  relapsed  into  silence. 

The  expected  mules  began  arriving  in  small  bands 
under  charge  of  natives  about  noon  the  next  day,  and 
with  much  bargaining  and  contention  the  passengers 
secured  their  mounts,  and  started  off  in  groups.  The 
governor  employed  two  natives  to  carry  the  two  youngest 
children,  who  were  mere  babies,  on  their  backs  in  chairs, 
and  set  off  followed  by  the  rest  of  the  family  mounted 
each  on  a  mule.  It  soon  began  to  rain  in  torrents.  In 
an  hour  it  as  suddenly  ceased,  and  the  sun  came  out,  hot 
and  sultry,  soon  to  be  followed  by  another  downpour, 
and  so  deluge  and  sunshine  alternated  all  day.  After 
riding  two  hours  over  narrow,  muddy  trails,  and  up  and 
down  steep  though  short  hills,  where  the  mules  had 
trodden  the  clay  into  regular  steps,  they  reached  the 
Chagres  Kiver,  and  found  all  the  passengers  who  had 
preceded  them  collected  on  the  bank,  gazing  in  dismay 
on  the  raging  yellow  flood,  for  the  stream  was  up  under 
the  tremendous  rains,  and  fearing  to  essay  its  passage. 
After  viewing  the  river  carefully,  the  governor  forced  his 
mule  into  it,  and,  guiding  him  diagonally  across,  safely 
made  the  opposite  bank.  Then,  returning,  he  led  the  way 
across  again,  his  little  daughter  Sue,  only  eight  years  old, 
close  behind  on  her  mule,  then  the  rest  of  the  family,  and 
after  them  followed  all  the  waiting  crowd.  It  was  dark 
when  they  reached  Panama,  and  found  shelter  in  an  old 
cloistered  stone  convent,  now  used  as  a  hotel,  exchanged 


436  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

their  wet  clothes  for  dry  purchased  at  the  nearest  shop, 
and  obtained  much-needed  food  and  rest.  But  nothing 
was  seen  or  heard  of  the  natives  with  the  two  babies,  since 
they  stole  off  on  a  footpath  soon  after  starting,  and  late 
in  the  evening  the  governor  mounted  a  fresh  animal,  and 
with  a  guide  went  back  to  find  them,  spending  the  greater 
part  of  the  night  in  a  vain  search.  At  breakfast  the  next 
morning  the  natives  brought  in  the  children,  safe  and 
well  and  perfectly  contented.  They  had  taken  the  little 
ones  to  their  huts  on  account  of  the  heavy  rains,  where 
the  native  women  fed  them  and  put  them  to  bed,  dried 
their  clothes,  and  sent  them  in  the  next  morning,  safe 
and  sound. 

During  the  day  the  passengers  were  taken  out  in  boats 
to  the  steamer  Golden  Age,  which  was  anchored  in  the 
bay  three  miles  from  the  town.  She  was  a  larger  and 
more  commodious  ship  than  the  other.  The  voyage  up 
the  coast  began  the  next  morning.  A  stop  of  several 
hours  was  made  in  the  land-locked  harbor  of  Acapulco, 
which  the  governor  improved  by  taking  his  family  ashore, 
and  treating  them  to  a  dinner  of  fried  chicken  at  a  small 
posada  on  the  old  and  quaint  paved  main  street.  The 
Panama  fever  soon  made  its  dreaded  appearance  among 
the  passengers,  owing  to  their  exposure  on  the  Isthmus ; 
many  fell  sick,  and  a  considerable  number  died  and  were 
buried  at  sea.  The  weather  was  fine,  the  sea  calm  and 
smooth  save  for  the  long  rollers  of  the  Pacific,  and  the 
voyage  would  have  been  an  enjoyable  one  had  it  not  been 
for  the  fearful  fever  and  the  crowded  condition  of  the 
vessel.  On  the  fourteenth  day  she  entered  the  Golden 
Gate,  and  rested  in  the  welcome  port  of  San  Francisco. 

The  governor  took  rooms  at  the  Oriental  Hotel.  His 
wife  and  the  three  little  girls  were  all  seized  with  the 
fever  on  the  ship,  and  their  condition  was  serious  when 
they  landed.      Doctors   Hitchcock   and   Hammond,  old 


PANAMA  FEVER  437 

army  friends  of  ,the  governor,  were  unremitting  in  their 
attentions,  and  after  several  weeks'  care  brought  the  suf- 
ferers past  the  danger  point,  all  except  the  little  four-year- 
old  Maude.  Her  case  they  at  length  pronounced  hope- 
less. But  her  father  would  not  give  her  up.  He  had  a 
hot  bath  administered  as  a  last  resort,  and  sat  by  her  bed- 
side hour  after  hour,  giving  liquid  nourishment  drop  by 
drop,  and  at  last  she  passed  the  crisis  and  began  to  re- 
cover. By  all  this  sickness  they  were  forced  to  remain 
in  the  city  over  a  month ;  but  in  the  society  of  his  old 
friends,  and  amid  the  bright,  vigorous  men  and  bustling 
scenes  of  the  new-born  metropolis,  the  time  passed  rapidly 
and  well  improved.  Folsom,  a  man  of  wealth,  placed  his 
fine  carriage  and  horses  at  Mrs.  Stevens's  disposal.  Hal- 
leck  would  have  long  talks  with  the  governor.  Dr.  Gwin 
and  his  family,  old  friends  and  neighbors,  met  them  with 
real  Southern  cordiality. 

One  incident  is  worth  relating,  because  it  materially 
affected  subsequent  events,  as  the  governor  believed.  A 
number  of  officers  and  other  gentlemen  were  convers- 
ing together  at  the  hotel  one  evening,  among  whom  was 
General  John  E.  Wool,  then  commanding  the  United 
States  forces  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  talk  turned  on 
the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  and  General  Wool  loudly 
claimed  for  himself  all  the  credit  for  that  battle,  dispar- 
aging in  an  offensive  manner  General  Taylor  and  the  part 
he  took  in  it.  At  length  Governor  Stevens,  whose  strong 
sense  of  justice  was  outraged  by  the  boastful  and  unfair 
tirade,  spoke  up  and  said  :  "  General  Wool,  we  all  know 
the  brilliant  part  you  bore  in  the  battle,  but  we  all  know 
and  history  will  record  that  General  Taylor  fought  and 
won  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista."  *  Wool,  although  visi- 
bly offended,  made  no  reply  to  this  rebuke,  but  it  rankled 

1  Governor  Stevens's  own  statement.     See  Bancroft's  Pacific  States,  vol. 
xxvi.  p.  117,  note. 


438  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

and  caused  a  bitter  animosity,  which  subsequently  found 
vent  in  hostile  speech  and  action. 

The  voyage  up  the  coast  was  made  without  special  inci- 
dent; they  crossed  the  bar,  steamed  up  the  Columbia, 
and  landed  at  Vancouver  early  in  November.  Here  they 
remained  a  fortnight,  the  guests  of  Captain  Brent,  the 
quartermaster,  in  order  to  enable  the  sick  members  to 
gain  strength  sufficiently  to  stand  the  hard  trip  to  the 
Sound.  After  this  brief  stay  the  governor  took  his 
family  on  a  little  steamboat  to  Portland,  where  they  spent 
the  night.  The  town  then  consisted  only  of  a  string  of 
small  wooden  buildings  along  the  river-bank.  The  street, 
or  road,  was  a  perfect  quagmire  of  mud-holes.  Single 
planks  laid  along  irregularly,  with  many  intervals,  fur- 
nished the  only  sidewalks.  The  next  morning  they  em- 
barked on  a  steamer  and  went  down  the  river  to  Rainier, 
where  they  landed.  This  place  consisted  of  a  wharf  and 
a  sawmill.  It  was  called  Rainier,  it  was  said,  by  way 
of  a  joke,  because  it  rained  here  all  the  time ;  but  doubt- 
less it  was  named  after  Mount  Rainier,  which  was  named 
by  Admiral  Vancouver  after  a  lord  of  the  British  admi- 
ralty. The  party  took  canoes,  manned  by  Indians,  the 
same  afternoon,  crossed  the  Columbia,  and  paddled  a  few 
miles  up  the  Cowlitz  to  Monticello,  where  they  spent  the 
night.  At  daylight  the  next  morning  the  governor  and 
family  embarked  in  one  large  canoe,  while  the  trunks 
and  baggage  followed  in  another,  and  pushed  upstream 
against  a  swift  current.  There  were  in  the  canoe  the 
governor,  his  wife  and  four  children,  the  nurse,  and  a 
crew  of  four  Indians,  two  at  each  end.  It  was  a  dark, 
drizzling  day,  with  frequent  showers.  The  passengers  sat 
upon  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  upon  plenty  of  Indian  mats, 
and  well  wrapped  in  blankets,  and,  except  for  the  con- 
strained and  irksome  position,  were  fairly  comfortable. 
The  Indians,  urged  by  promise  of  extra  pay,  paddled  vig- 


CANOEING  UP  THE  COWLITZ  439 

orously.  At  the  rapids  (and  it  seemed  that  nearly  all  the 
stream  was  in  rapids)  they  laid  aside  their  paddles,  and, 
standing  up,  forced  the  canoe  ahead  with  poles,  which 
they  wielded  with  great  skill  and  vigor.  All  day  long 
they  paddled  and  poled  with  unabated  energy,  now  pad- 
dling where  they  could  take  advantage  of  an  eddy  or 
stretch  of  back  water,  now  forcing  the  canoe  up  swift 
rapids,  gaining  inch  by  inch.  It  was  after  dark  when 
they  reached  Cowlitz  Landing,  thirty  miles  above  Monti- 
cello,  and  found  shelter  for  the  night  at  the  hospitable 
inn  kept  by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  U.  G.  Warbass. 
Writes  Mrs.  Stevens  of  this  trip :  — ■ 

"  We  were  placed  in  the  canoe  with  great  care,  so  as  to  bal- 
ance it  evenly,  as  it  was  frail  and  upset  easily.  At  first  the 
novelty,  motion,  and  watching  our  Indians  paddle  so  deftly,  then 
seize  their  poles  and  push  along  over  shallow  places,  keeping  up 
a  low,  sweet  singing  as  they  glided  along,  was  amusing.  As  we 
were  sitting  flat  on  the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  the  position  became 
irksome  and  painful.  We  were  all  day  long  on  this  Cowlitz 
River.  At  night  I  could  not  stand  on  my  feet  for  some  time 
after  landing.  We  walked  ankle-deep  in  the  mud  to  a  small 
log-house,  where  we  had  a  good  meal.  Here  we  found  a  num- 
ber of  rough,  dirty-looking  men,  with  pantaloons  tucked  inside 
their  boots,  and  so  much  hair  upon  their  heads  and  faces  they 
all  looked  alike.  After  tea  we  were  shown  a  room  to  sleep  in, 
full  of  beds,  which  were  for  the  women.  I  was  so  worn  out 
with  this  novel  way  of  traveling  that  I  laid  down  on  a  narrow 
strip  of  bed,  not  undressed,  all  my  family  alongside  on  the  same 
bed.  The  governor  sat  on  a  stool  near  by,  and,  strange  to  say, 
slept  sound  through  the  long,  dismal  night.  He  had  been  shown 
his  bed  up  through  a  hole  on  top  of  the  shanty.  He  said  one 
look  was  sufficient.  Men  were  strewn  as  thick  as  possible  on  the 
floor  in  their  blankets.  The  steam  generated  from  their  wet 
clothes,  boots,  and  blankets  was  stifling.  One  small  hole  cut 
through  the  roof  was  the  only  ventilation. 

"  As  soon  as  breakfast  was  over  the  next  morning,  we  mounted 
into  a  wagon  without  springs  and  proceeded  on  our  journey. 


440  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

The  governor  took  M.  in  his  arms  to  keep  her  from  being 
jolted.  There  surely  were  no  worse  roads  to  be  found  any- 
where in  the  world  than  this.  The  horses  went  deep  in  the  mud 
every  step ;  the  wheels  sank  to  the  hub,  and  often  had  to  be 
pried  up.  We  forded  rivers,  the  water  coming  above  our 
ankles  in  the  wagon.  Many  big,  deep  holes  they  would  jump 
over,  making  the  horses  run  quick,  when  the  wagon  would  jump 
across,  shaking  us  up  fearfully.  In  one  of  these  holes  our 
horses  fell  down,  and  we  stuck  fast  in  the  mud.  We  were 
taken  from  the  wagon  by  men  of  our  party  plunging  up  to 
their  knees  in  the  mud,  and  carrying  us  out  by  sheer  force  of 
their  strength.  After  seating  us  upon  a  fallen  log,  the  horses 
were  with  difficulty  extricated  from  the  mud.  After  another 
long  day's  tiresome  travel  we  stopped  at  a  log-house  for  the 
night.  Upon  entering  from  the  porch  we  found  a  big  room, 
with  a  wood  fire  filling  up  one  side,  blazing  and  crackling,  low 
chairs  in  front ;  in  the  centre  of  the  room  was  a  table  with  a 
clean  cloth  on  it,  and  a  repast  of  well-cooked  food,  relishing 
and  abundant,  was  placed  upon  it,  to  which  we  did  ample  jus- 
tice. Our  host  was  an  Englishman,  a  farmer,  who  was  getting 
on  well,  a  genial,  hospitable  man.  His  wife  was  a  superior 
woman.  She  had  crossed  the  plains  with  her  first  husband. 
On  the  journey  they  were  surrounded  by  Indians.  He  was 
killed.  She  was  taken  prisoner  by  these  savages,  and  after 
passing  through  untold  suffering  she  managed  to  make  her 
escape,  and  after  walking  hundreds  of  miles,  living  upon  ber- 
ries by  the  way,  she  came  into  the  Dalles,  a  forlorn,  starved 
woman,  almost  destitute  of  clothing,  with  her  boy  ten  years  of 
age.  It  was  here  our  host  met  her  and  offered  shelter  to  her 
child  and  herself,  which  she  gladly  accepted,  and  finally  became 
his  wife.  She  was  a  fine-looking  woman  and  a  thorough  house- 
keeper, but  had  the  saddest  expression  on  her  face.  At  night 
she  took  us  across  the  yard  into  another  log-house,  where  we 
found  a  bright  fire  burning  on  the  hearth,  and  nice,  clean  beds. 
I  felt  like  staying  in  this  comfortable  shelter,  hearing  the  rain 
patter  on  the  roof,  until  the  rainy  season  was  over,  at  least." 

The  host  referred  to  was  John  R.  Jackson.     His  farm 
was  only  ten  miles  from  Cowlitz  Landing,  but  the  roads 


OVERLAND  TO  OLYMPIA  441 

were  in  such  wretched  state  that  a  whole  day  was  con- 
sumed in  traveling  this  short  distance. 

After  a  cheerful  breakfast  the  next  morning,  the  jour- 
ney was  resumed.  George  W.  Stevens  and  several  other 
gentlemen  came  out  to  meet  the  governor  and  family,  and 
escorted  them  to  Olympia.  The  governor  mounted  his 
horse  Charlie,  which  he  purchased  of  the  Red  River  half- 
breeds,  and  which  was  brought  out  to  him.  This  was 
a  great,  powerful  gray  charger,  of  high  spirit,  and  able 
to  cover  twelve  miles  an  hour  in  a  swinging  trot  without 
distress.  It  was  another  rainy,  drizzling  day.  The  road 
was  almost  impassable.  At  Saunders's  Bottom,  where 
the  town  of  Chehalis  now  stands,  the  mud  was  knee-deep 
for  two  miles,  terribly  wearing  on  the  animals.  At  length, 
after  fording  the  Skookumchuck  at  its  mouth,  and  trav- 
ersing an  extensive  prairie,  the  wet,  tired,  and  bedraggled 
party  reached  the  log-house  of  Judge  Sidney  S.  Ford, 
and  found  hospitable  shelter  for  the  night,  having  trav- 
eled about  twenty-five  miles  that  day. 

The  next  day  the  party  reached  Olympia  late  in  the 
afternoon,  after  a  thirty  miles'  journey  over  much  better 
and  pleasanter  roads,  traversing  prairies  over  half  the  dis- 
tance, including  Grand  Mound,  Little  Mound,  and  Bush's 
prairies.  It  was  a  dreary,  dark,  December  day.  It  had 
rained  considerably.  The  road  from  Tumwater  to  Olym- 
pia was  ankle-deep  in  mud,  and  thridded  a  dense  forest 
with  a  narrow  track.  With  expectations  raised  at  the 
idea  of  seeing  the  capital  and  chief  town  of  the  Terri- 
tory, the  weary  travelers  toiled  up  a  small  hill  in  the  edge 
of  the  timber,  reached  the  summit,  and  eagerly  looked  to 
see  the  future  metropolis.  Their  hearts  sank  with  bitter 
disappointment  as  they  surveyed  the  dismal  and  forlorn 
scene  before  them.  A  low,  flat  neck  of  land,  running 
into  the  bay,  down  it  stretched  the  narrow,  muddy  track, 
winding  among  the  stumps  which  stood  thickly  on  either 


442  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

side;  twenty  small  wooden  houses  bordered  the  road, 
while  back  of  them  on  the  left  and  next  the  shore  were  a 
number  of  Indian  lodges,  with  canoes  drawn  up  on  the 
beach,  and  Indians  and  dogs  lounging  about.  The  little 
hill  mentioned  is  where  now  stands  the  Masonic  Building, 
opposite  the  Olympia  Hotel.  The  site  of  the  Indian 
camp  is  now  Columbia  Street,  between  Third  and  Fourth. 
There  were  only  one  or  two  buildings  above,  or  south  of, 
Sixth  Street.  The  public  square  was  a  tangle  of  fallen 
timber.  Main  Street  terminated  in  Giddings's  Wharf, 
which  was  left  high  and  dry  at  low  tide. 

Mrs.  Stevens  continues  her  account  as  follows :  — 

"At  night  we  were  told,  on  ascending  a  hill,  '  There  is  Olym- 
piad Below  us,  in  the  deep  mud,  were  a  few  low,  wooden  houses, 
at  the  head  of  Puget  Sound.  My  heart  sank,  for  the  first  time 
in  my  life,  at  the  prospect.  After  ploughing  through  the  mud, 
we  stopped  at  the  principal  hotel,  to  stay  until  our  house  was 
ready  for  us.  As  we  went  upstairs  there  were  a  number  of 
people  standing  about  to  see  the  governor  and  his  family.  I 
was  very  much  annoyed  at  their  staring  and  their  remarks, 
which  they  made  audibly,  and  hastened  to  get  in  some  private 
room,  where  I  could  make  myself  better  prepared  for  an  inspec- 
tion. Being  out  in  rains  for  many  days  had  not  improved  our 
appearance  or  clothes.  But  there  seemed  no  rest  for  the  weary. 
Upon  being  ushered  into  the  public  parlor  I  found  people  from 
far  and  near  had  been  invited  to  inspect  us.  The  room  was  full. 
The  sick  child  was  cross,  and  took  no  notice  of  anything  that 
was  said  to  her.  One  of  the  women  saying  aloud, 4  What  a  cross 
brat  that  is ! '  I  could  stand  it  no  longer,  but  opened  a  door  and 
went  into  a  large  dancing-hall,  and  soon  after,  when  the  gov- 
ernor came  to  look  me  up,  I  was  breaking  my  heart  over  the 
forlorn  situation  I  found  myself  in,  —  cold,  wet,  uncomfortable, 
no  fire,  shaking  with  chills.  What  a  prospect !  How  I  longed 
to  find  myself  back  in  my  childhood's  home,  among  good  friends 
and  relatives !  Just  then  we  were  told  we  were  expected  across 
the  street.  The  governor  had  his  office  there,  and  had  us  taken 
directly  there.    It  was  a  happy  change.    We  went  into  a  large, 


OLYMPIA  443 

cheerful  room,  with  the  beds  on  the  floor,  a  bright  fire  burning, 
book-cases  filled  with  books  smiling  upon  us.  We  soon  had  a 
good  repast,  and  felt  comfortable  at  last.  In  a  few  days  we 
were  at  housekeeping,  very  pleasant  indeed,  all  picking  up  in 
health,  and  good  friends  around  us. 

"  Many  of  the  people  called  on  me.  I  found  them  pleasant 
and  agreeable  people;  many  of  them  were  well-educated  and 
interesting  young  ladies  who  had  come  here  with  their  hus- 
bands, government  officials,  and  who  had  given  up  their  city 
homes  to  live  in  this  unknown  land,  surrounded  by  Indians 
and  dense  forests. 

"  I  remained  three  years  at  Olympia,  a  great  part  of  the  time 
living  alone  with  the  children,  the  governor  being  away  in  all 
parts  of  the  Territory,  making  treaties  with  the  Indians,  plan- 
ning and  arranging  the  settlement  of  the  country.  There  was 
a  pleasant  company  of  officers,  with  their  wives,  stationed  at 
Steilacoom,  twenty  miles  from  Olympia,  with  whom  I  became 
acquainted,  and  had  visits  from  and  visited.  Naval  ships  came 
up  Puget  Sound  with  agreeable  officers  on  board.  I  had  a 
horse  to  ride  on  horseback  across  the  lovely  prairies.  Almost 
daily  I  took  a  ride  about  the  picturesque,  beautiful  country, 
with  the  rich,  dense  forests  and  snowy  mountains,  green  little 
prairies  skirted  by  timber,  lakes  of  deep,  clear  water,  all  of 
which  was  new  to  me,  affording  great  pleasure  in  exploring 
Indian  trails  and  country,  which  was  completely  new.  I  also 
had  a  boat  built,  in  which  I  made  excursions  down  the  Sound. 
About  two  miles  down  there  was  a  Catholic  mission,  a  large, 
dark  house  or  monastery,  surrounded  by  cultivated  land,  a  fine 
garden  in  front  filled  with  flowers,  bordered  on  one  side,  next 
the  water,  with  immense  bushes  of  wall-flowers  in  bloom ;  the 
fragrance,  resembling  the  sweet  English  violet,  filling  the  air 
with  its  delicious  odor.  Father  Ricard,  the  venerable  head  of 
this  house,  was  from  Paris.  He  had  lived  in  this  place  more 
than  twenty  years.  He  had  with  him  Father  Blanchet,  a  short, 
thickset  man,  who  managed  everything  pertaining  to  the  tem- 
poral comfort  of  the  mission.  Under  him  were  servants  who 
were  employed  in  various  ways,  baking,  cooking,  digging,  and 
planting.  Their  fruit  was  excellent  and  a  great  rarity,  as  there 
was  but  one  more  orchard  in  the  whole  country.     There  was  a 


444  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

large  number  of  Flatheads  settled  about  them,  who  had  been 
taught  to  count  their  beads,  say  prayers,  and  were  good  Catho- 
lics in  all  outward  observances ;  chanted  the  morning  and  even- 
ing prayers,  which  they  sang  in  their  own  language  in  a  low, 
sweet  strain,  which,  the  first  time  I  heard  it,  sitting  in  my  boat 
at  sunset,  was  impressive  and  solemn.  We  went  often  to  visit 
Father  Eicard,  who  was  a  highly  educated  man,  who  seemed  to 
enjoy  having  some  one  to  converse  with  in  his  own  language. 
He  said  the  Canadians  used  such  bad  French." 

Mrs.  Stevens  was  still  suffering  from  the  Panama  fever, 
and  it  was  a  year  before  she  and  little  Maude  recov- 
ered from  it.  The  new  quarters  consisted  of  two  long, 
one-story  wooden  buildings,  one  room  wide,  little  more 
than  sheds,  hired  of  Father  Ricard  at  $900  a  year.  They 
were  cheaply  built,  without  plastering,  but  lined  inside 
with  cotton  cloth.  There  was  a  narrow  passageway  be- 
tween them,  from  which  doors  gave  access  to  the  differ- 
ent rooms.  In  rear  was  a  large  yard,  extending  to  the 
beach,  upon  which  a  gate  in  the  rear  fence  opened,  and 
where  a  boat  was  kept.  The  Indian  camp  began  at  the 
corner  of  the  yard.  The  governor  had  secured  two  men 
servants,  Agnew  as  cook,  and  W.  F.  Seely,  man  of  all 
work.  The  latter  was  a  lusty  young  Irishman,  strong 
as  a  bull  and  quick  as  a  cat,  witty,  boastful,  brave,  and 
devoted  to  the  governor  and  his  family.  He  was  a 
member  of  the  exploring  party,  where  he  had  fought  and 
beaten  all  the  pugilistic  heroes  up  to  the  wagon-master, 
C.  P.  Higgins,  by  whom  he  had  been  handsomely  van- 
quished, and  whom  he  regarded  ever  after  with  great 
admiration  and  esteem. 

The  family  soon  felt  at  home  in  the  new  abode,  amid 
the  novel  scenes  and  experiences,  and  cheered  by  new 
and  old  friends.  George  Stevens,  Mason,  and  Lieutenant 
Arnold  came  in  and  out  like  brothers.  There  were  Evans 
and  Kendall,  who  came  with  the  exploration ;  Major  H. 


THE  SECOND  LEGISLATIVE  MESSAGE  445 

A.  Goldsborough,  George  Gibbs,  Colonel  Simmons,  Frank 
Shaw,  and  Orrington  Cushman,  known  as  "  Old  Cush," 
with  his  great  red  beard,  a  great  favorite  with  children, 
and  liked  and  trusted  by  both  whites  and  Indians.  Major 
James  Tilton,  the  surveyor-general,  arrived  with  his  fam- 
ily after  a  voyage  around  the  Horn,—  a  man  of  soldierly 
bearing  and  aristocratic  tastes,  who  was  to  render  valua- 
ble service.  Captain  J.  Cain  also  arrived,  as  Indian  agent, 
—  a  typical  Indiana  politician,  but  a  man  of  parts  and 
integrity  and  public  spirit,  and  a  true  friend. 

The  second  legislature  met  on  December  4,  and  the 
governor  on  the  5th  delivered  his  message  in  person. 

After  acknowledging  the  consideration  shown  him  as 
their  executive,  and  congratulating  them  on  the  flatter- 
ing prospects  of  the  Territory,  he  recommended  them 
to  memorialize  Congress  for  roads,  mail  service,  steamer 
lines,  etc.,  and  other  needs,  and  mentioned  with  regret 
the  failure  of  Congress  to  provide  for  objects  for  which 
he  had  earnestly  striven,  viz.,  the  extinction  of  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company's  claims,  the  running  of  the  northern 
boundary  line,  and  a  geological  survey  of  the  coal  mea- 
sures. He  urged  the  organization  of  an  effective  militia, 
referring  to  the  danger  of  Indian  hostilities,  his  recom- 
mendation to  the  first  legislature,  and  to  the  fact  that 
the  government  had  refused  his  recent  applications  for 
arms  because  the  militia  was  not  organized.  He  summed 
up  the  results  of  his  exploration  in  saying :  "  Beautiful 
prairies  and  delightful  valleys,  easy  passes  practicable  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year,  have  taken  the  place  of  savage 
deserts  and  mountain  defiles  impracticable  half  the  year 
from  snow.  .  .  .  The  more  the  country  is  examined,  the 
better  it  develops." 

In  closing  he  invoked  their  support  of  his  efforts  in 
behalf  of  the  Indians :  — 


446  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

"  I  will  indulge  the  hope  that  the  same  spirit  of  concord  and 
exalted  patriotism,  which  has  thus  far  marked  our  political 
existence,  will  continue  to  the  end.  Particularly  do  I  invoke 
that  spirit  in  reference  to  our  Indian  relations.  I  believe  the 
time  has  now  come  for  their  final  settlement.  In  view  of  the 
important  duties  which  have  been  assigned  to  me,  I  throw  my- 
self unreservedly  upon  the  people  of  the  Territory,  not  doubting 
that  they  will  extend  to  me  a  hearty  and  generous  support  in 
my  efforts  to  arrange  on  a  permanent  basis  the  future  of  the 
Indians  of  this  Territory." 

Referring  to  the  military  road  across  the  Nahchess  Pass, 
he  said :  — 

"It  would  be  a  great  benefit  to  those  traveling  this  road 
should  the  legislature  take  some  step  toward  sowing  with  grass- 
seed  the  small  prairie  known  as  the  Bare  Prairie,  situated  a 
little  below  the  mouth  of  Green  River,  as  also  the  sides  of  the 
mountain  known  as  La  Tete.  These  points  are  intermediate  in 
a  long  distance  destitute  of  grass,  and  are  almost  necessarily 
stopping-places  on  the  march.  A  very  small  sum  would  cover 
the  expense  of  planting  them,  and  the  advantage  would  be 
incalculable.' ' 

This  humane  and  sensible  suggestion  was  turned  into 
ridicule  and  defeated  by  one  of  those  wiseacres,  strong  in 
their  own  conceit  and  ignorance,  that  infest  most  assem- 
blies, who  cried  out,  "  Governor  Stevens  need  n't  try  to 
make  grass  grow  where  God  Almighty  did  n't  make  it 
grow." 

There  was  great  jealousy  on  the  part  of  the  settlers  of 
the  far-reaching  claims  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
and  under  the  influence  of  this  feeling  the  council  re- 
quested the  governor  to  communicate  any  information 
he  had  as  to  the  manner  in  which  Congress  arrived  at  the 
estimated  amount  of  $300,000  as  the  value  of  such 
claims.  The  attentions  paid  him  by  the  officers  of  that 
company,  in  their  open  efforts  to  gain  his  goodwill  and 
support,  were  well  known,  and,   with  the  fact   that   an 


THE  SECOND  MESSAGE  447 

appropriation  of  the  above  amount  for  extinguishing  the 
claims  had  passed  the  Senate,  had  excited  some  mistrust 
as  to  the  governor's  action  and  attitude  on  that  impor- 
tant question.  In  reply  he  simply  gave  a  synopsis  of  his 
report  to  the  State  Department,  which  set  all  doubts  at 
rest. 


CHAPTER  XXV 

INDIAN  POLICY. TREATIES    ON   PUGET   SOUND 

Governor  Stevens  regarded  his  Indian  treaties  and 
Indian  policy,  and  his  management  of  the  Indians  of  the 
Northwest,  as  among  the  most  important,  beneficial,  and 
successful  services  he  rendered  the  country.  By  ten 
treaties  and  many  councils  and  talks,  he  extinguished 
the  Indian  title  to  a  domain  larger  than  New  England ; 
and  by  the  Blackfoot  council  and  treaty  he  made  peace 
between  those  fierce  savages  and  the  whites  and  all  the 
surrounding  tribes,  and  permanently  pacified  a  region 
equally  extensive,  embracing  the  greater  part  of  Mon- 
tana and  northern  Idaho ;  and  during  the  four  years, 
1853-56,  he  treated  and  dealt  with  over  thirty  thou- 
sand Indians,  divided  into  very  numerous  and  inde- 
pendent tribes  and  bands,  and  occupying  the  whole  vast 
region  from  the  Pacific  to  and  including  the  plains  of 
the  upper  Missouri,  and  now  comprising  the  States  of 
Washington,  part  of  Oregon,  northern  Idaho,  and  the 
greater  part  of  Montana.  Moreover,  by  gaining  the 
wavering  friendship  and  fidelity  of  doubtful  tribes,  and 
even  many  members  of  the  disaffected,  he  frustrated  the 
well-planned  efforts  of  the  hostile  Indians  to  bring  about 
a  universal  outbreak,  and  saved  the  infant  settlements 
from  complete  annihilation  at  the  hands  of  the  treacher- 
ous savages. 

His  Indian  policy  was  one  of  great  beneficence  to  the 
Indians,  jealously  protected  their  interests,  and  provided 
for  their  improvement  and  eventual  civilization,  while  at 


INDIAN  POLICY  449 

the  same  time  it  opened  the  country  for  settlement  by  the 
whites.  The  wisdom  with  which  it  was  planned,  and  the 
ability  and  energy  with  which  it  was  carried  out,  during 
this  brief  period,  are  attested  by  the  remarkable  suc- 
cess which  attended  it,  and  by  the  fact  that  many  of 
these  tribes  are  to-day  living  under  those  very  treaties, 
and  have  made  substantial  progress  towards  civilized  hab- 
its. It  is  believed  that  in  their  extent  and  magnitude, 
in  their  difficulties  and  dangers,  and  in  the  permanence 
and  beneficence  of  their  results,  these  operations  are  with- 
out parallel  in  the  history  of  the  country.  Yet  for  sev- 
eral years  Governor  Stevens's  Indian  treaties  were  bitterly 
assailed  and  misrepresented  both  by  hostile  Indians  and 
by  officers  high  in  authority ;  their  confirmation  was  re- 
fused by  the  United  States  Senate,  and  he  himself  was 
made  the  target  for  virulent  abuse.  It  was  his  intention 
to  write  the  history  of  these  operations,  an  intention  which 
the  pressure  of  public  duties  during  the  few  remaining 
years  of  his  life,  and  his  early  death,  prevented.  In  his 
final  report  on  the  Northern  route  he  remarks,  in  words 
of  manly  fortitude  and  confidence  :  — 

"  I  trust  the  time  will  come  when  my  treaty  operations  of 
1855,  —  the  most  extensive  operations  ever  undertaken  and  car- 
ried out  in  these  latter  days  of  our  history,  —  I  repeat,  I  trust 
the  time  will  come  when  I  shall  be  able  to  vindicate  them,  and 
show  that  they  were  wise  and  proper,  and  that  they  accom- 
plished a  great  end.  They  have  been  very  much  criticised  and 
very  much  abused  ;  but  I  have  always  felt  that  history  will  do 
those  operations  justice.  I  have  not  been  impatient  as  to  time, 
but  have  been  willing  that  my  vindication  should  come  at  the 
end  of  a  term  of  years.  Let  short-minded  men  denounce  and 
criticise  ignorantly  and  injuriously,  and  let  time  show  that  the 
government  made  no  mistake  in  the  man  whom  it  placed  in 
the  great  field  of  duty  as  its  commissioner  to  make  treaties  with 
the  Indian  tribes." 

And  in  another  place  he  adds :  — 


450  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

"  I  intend  at  some  future  day  to  give  a  very  full  account  of 
these  large  operations  in  the  Indian  service." 

In  his  journey  across  the  plains,  amid  all  the  cares 
and  labors  of  the  great  exploration,  Governor  Stevens 
took  the  utmost  pains,  by  messages,  talks,  and  councils 
to  and  with  the  Blackfeet  and  other  tribes,  to  prepare 
them  for  the  great  council  and  peace  treaty  which  he 
saw  was  necessary  for  the  opening  and  settlement  of  the 
country,  and  on  arriving  in  his  own  Territory  was  equally 
indefatigable  in  impressing  upon  the  Indians  there  the 
advantages  of  living  at  peace  with  the  white  man,  of 
adopting  his  better  mode  of  livelihood,  and  of  securing 
the  aid  and  protection  of  the  Great  Father  in  Washing- 
ton. Among  his  first  acts  was  the  appointment  of  In- 
dian agents,  and  sending  them  to  urge  these  views  upon 
the  tribes.  It  was  high  time  for  judicious  and  prompt 
action  ;  for  the  Indians,  especially  the  powerful  and  war- 
like tribes  of  the  upper  Columbia,  were  becoming  alarmed 
at  the  way  the  whites  were  pouring  into  the  country,  and, 
under  the  invitation  of  Congress  given  by  the  Donation 
Acts,  were  taking  up  their  choicest  lands  without  asking 
their  consent.  On  his  recent  visit  in  Washington  he  had 
impressed  his  views  upon  the  government,  obtained  its 
sanction  and  authorization  for  the  Blackfoot  council,  and 
the  necessary  authority  and  funds  for  treating  with  the 
Indians  of  his  own  superintendency.  He  now  planned 
treating  first  with  the  tribes  on  Puget  Sound  and  west  of 
the  Cascades  for  the  cession  of  their  lands,  then  with  the 
great  tribes  occupying  the  country  between  the  Cascades 
and  Rocky  Mountains  for  their  lands,  and  then,  crossing 
the  Rockies,  to  proceed  to  Fort  Benton,  accompanied  by 
delegations  from  the  hunting  tribes  of  Washington  and 
Oregon,  and  there  hold  the  great  pre-arranged  peace 
council  with  the  Blackfeet,  Crows,  and  Assiniboines  of 
the  plains  east  of  the  mountains,  and  the  Nez  Perces,  Flat- 
heads,  Pend  Oreilles,  etc.,  of  the  western  slope. 


PUGET  SOUND  INDIANS  451 

Immediately  on  his  return  to  Olympia  the  governor 
sent  out  the  agents  and  messengers  to  assemble  the 
Sound  Indians  at  designated  points  for  council  and  treaty 
making,  and  early  in  January  dispatched  Mr.  Doty  with/ 
a  small  party  east  of  the  Cascades  to  make  the  prelimi- 
nary arrangements  for  bringing  together  in  council  the 
Indians  of  that  region. 

The  Indians  on  the  Sound,  including  those  on  the 
Strait  of  Fuca,  numbered  some  eight  thousand  five  hun- 
dred, and  were  divided  into  a  great  many  tribes  and 
bands.  They  were  canoe  Indians,  and  drew  most  of 
their  food  from  the  waters,  chiefly  salmon  and  shell-fish, 
eked  out  with  game,  roots,  and  berries.  Those  about 
the  upper  Sound  had  bands  of  ponies,  with  which  they 
roamed  the  prairies  in  summer.  They  lived  in  large 
lodges,  several  families  together,  constructed  of  planks 
split  from  the  cedar,  with  nearly  flat  roofs,  and  often 
thirty  or  forty  feet  long  and  twenty  wide.  They  showed 
no  little  artistic  skill  in  their  canoes,  paddles,  spears, 
fish-hooks,  basket-work  impervious  to  water,  and  mats  of 
rushes.  Out  of  a  single  cedar-tree,  with  infinite  pains 
and  labor,  they  hewed  and  burned  the  most  graceful 
and  beautiful  and  finest  canoe  ever  seen,  the  very  model, 
in  lines  and  run,  of  a  clipper  ship.  These  varied  in 
size  from  the  little  fishing-craft,  holding  but  two  per- 
sons, to  a  great  canoe  carrying  thirty.  They  held  as 
slaves  the  captives  taken  in  war  and  their  descendants, 
and,  singularly  enough,  the  heads  of  the  slaves  were  left 
in  their  natural  state,  while  the  skulls  of  the  free-born 
were  flattened  by  pressure  during  infancy  into  the  shape 
of  a  shovel.  Many  of  the  bands  were  remnants  of  former 
large  tribes,  for  they  had  been  greatly  diminished  in 
numbers  by  the  ravages  of  smallpox  and  venereal  disease. 
They  lacked  the  energy  and  courage  of  the  Indians  of 
the  upper  country,  and  lived  in  perpetual  dread  of  the 


452  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

gigantic  and  savage  northern  Indians,  —  the  Hydahs 
and  other  bands  of  Tlinkits  of  British  Columbia  and 
Alaska,  —  who  would  periodically  swoop  down  the  coast 
in  their  great  war  canoes  and  raid  these  feebler  folk, 
ruthlessly  slaughtering  the  men,  and  enslaving  the  women 
and  children.  They  suffered  also,  but  to  a  less  degree, 
from  incursions  of  bands  of  Yakimas  across  the  moun- 
tains, equally  on  trade  and  plunder  bent,  whom  they 
designated  "  Klikitats,"  or  robbers,  a  term  which  has 
been  taken  as  a  tribal  name.  To  these  dangers  were 
now  added  the  fear  of  the  all-powerful  and  ever-increas- 
ing whites.  Thus  situated  and  thus  apprehensive,  the 
messages  and  exhortations  of  the  governor  promising 
them  protection,  pointing  out  the  way  of  bettering  their 
condition,  and  of  even  imitating  the  envied  superior  race, 
broke  upon  them  like  a  lighthouse  in  a  dark  night  upon 
the  storm-tossed  mariner,  relieved  their  fears  and  anxi- 
eties, and  gave  them  hope.  They  hastened  to  assemble 
at  the  appointed  council  grounds,  eager  to  listen  to  the 
new  white  chief,  and  to  learn  what  he  offered  from  the 
Great  Father  for  their  benefit. 

On  December  7,  only  two  days  after  delivering  his 
message  to  the  legislature,  Governor  Stevens  organized 
his  treaty-making  force  by  appointing  James  Doty  secre- 
tary, George  Gibbs  surveyor,  H.  A.  Goldsborough  com- 
missary, and  B.  F.  Shaw  interpreter,  Colonel  M.  T. 
Simmons  having  already  been  appointed  agent.  The 
governor  assembled  these  gentlemen  to  confer  upon  the 
projected  treaties.  After  giving  his  views,  and  showing 
the  necessity  of  speedily  treating  with  the  Indians  and 
placing  them  on  reservations,  he  had  Mr.  Doty  read  cer- 
tain treaties  with  the  Missouri  and  Omaha  tribes,  which 
contained  provisions  he  deemed  worthy  of  adoption,  and 
invited  a  general  and  thorough  discussion  of  the  whole 
subject.     So  many  points  were  settled  by  this  frank  and 


ORGANIZING  THE  TREATY  SERVICE  453 

free  interchange  of  views  that  Mr.  Gibbs  was  directed 
to  draw  up  a  programme,  or  outline  of  a  treaty,  which 
on  the  next  meeting  on  the  10th,  after  discussion  and 
some  changes,  was  adopted  as  the  basis  of  the  treaties  to 
be  made  with  the  tribes  on  the  Sound,  coast,  and  lower 
Columbia. 

No  better  advisers  could  have  been  found  than  the  men 
with  whom  he  thus  took  counsel ;  and  one  is  struck  by 
the  clever  and  considerate  way  in  which  he  secured  the 
best  fruits  of  their  knowledge  and  experience,  and  enlisted 
their  best  efforts  in  carrying  out  the  work.  Simmons 
and  Shaw  were  old  frontiersmen,  among  the  earliest 
settlers,  and  had  dealt  much  with,  and  thoroughly, 
understood,  the  Indians,  and  were  respected  and  trusted] 
by  them.  Simmons  has  been  justly  termed  the  Daniel 
Boone  of  Washington  Territory.  Shaw  was  said  to  be 
the  only  man  who  could  make  or  translate  a  speech  in 
Chinook  jargon  offhand,  as  fast  as  a  man  could  talk  in 
his  own  vernacular.  The  Chinook  jargon  was  a  mongrel 
lingo,  made  up  for  trading  purposes  by  the  fur-traders 
from  English,  French,  and  Indian  words,  and  had  become 
the  common  speech  between  whites  and  Indians,  and 
between  Indians  of  different  tribes  and  tongues.  He 
greatly  distinguished  himself  afterwards  in  the  Indian 
war  as  lieutenant-colonel  of  volunteers.  Gibbs  and 
Goldsborough  were  men  of  education,  and  had  lived  in 
the  country  long  enough  to  know  the  general  situation 
and  conditions,  and  to  learn*  much  about  the  Indians. 
Gibbs,  indeed,  made  a  study  of  the  different  tribes,  and! 
rendered  an  able  report  upon  them  as  part  of  the  North-j 
ern  Pacific  Railroad  exploration.  Doty,  a  son  of  ex-Gov- 
ernor Doty,  of  Wisconsin,  was  a  young  man  of  uncommon 
ability  and  energy,  who  had  spent  the  preceding  winter 
at  Fort  Benton,  and  had  studied  and  made  a  census  of 
the  Blackf eet. 


454  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

The  salient  features  of  the  policy  outlined  were  as 
follows :  — 

1.  To  concentrate  the  Indians  upon  a  few  reserva- 
tions, and  encourage  them  to  cultivate  the  soil  and  adopt 
settled  and  civilized  habits. 

2.  To  pay  for  their  lands  not  in  money,  but  in  annu- 
ities of  blankets,  clothing,  and  useful  articles  during  a 
long  term  of  years. 

3.  To  furnish  them  with  schools,  teachers,  farmers 
and  farming  implements,  blacksmiths,  and  carpenters, 
with  shops  of  those  trades. 

4.  To  prohibit  wars  and  disputes  among  them. 

5.  To  abolish  slavery. 

6.  To  stop  as  far  as  possible  the  use  of  liquor. 

7.  As  the  change  from  savage  to  civilized  habits  must 
necessarily  be  gradual,  they  were  to  retain  the  right  of 
fishing  at  their  accustomed  fishing-places,  and  of  hunt- 
ing, gathering  berries  and  roots,  and  pasturing  stock  on 
unoccupied  land  as  long  as  it  remained  vacant. 

8.  At  some  future  time,  when  they  should  have  be- 
come fitted  for  it,  the  lands  of  the  reservations  were  to 
be  allotted  to  them  in  severalty. 

"  It  was  proposed,"  reported  the  governor,  "  to  remove 
all  the  Indians  on  the  east  side  of  the  Sound  as  far  as 
the  Snohomish,  as  also  the  S'Klallams,  to  Hood's  Canal, 
and  generally  to  admit  as  few  reservations  as  possible, 
with  a  view  of  finally  concentrating  them  in  one."  It 
was  found  necessary,  however,  in  consequence  of  the 
mutual  jealousies  of  so  many  independent  tribes,  to  allow 
more  reservations  than  he  first  intended,  but  some  of 
them  were  established  temporarily,  with  the  right  reserved 
in  the  President  to  remove  the  Indians  to  the  larger 
reservations  in  the  future. 

The  schooner  R.  B.  Potter,  Captain  E.  S.  Fowler,  was 
chartered  at  $700  per  month,  manned  and  victualed  by 


CARE  TO  INFORM  AND  CONSULT  THE  INDIANS     465 

the  owner,  to  transport  the  personnel  and  treaty  goods 
from  point  to  point  on  the  Sound.  Orrington  Cushman, 
Sidney  S.  Ford,  Jr.,  and  Henry  D.  Cock,  with  several 
assistants,  were  employed  as  quartermasters,  to  prepare 
camps  and  council  grounds,  make  surveys,  etc. 

In  all  his  councils  Governor  Stevens  took  the  greatest 
pains  to  make  the  Indians  understand  what  was  said  to 
them.  To  insure  this  he  always  had  several  interpreters, 
to  check  each  other  and  prevent  mistakes  in  translation, 
and  was  accustomed  to  consult  the  chiefs  as  to  whom 
they  wanted  as  interpreters. 

"  It  was  my  invariable  custom,"  he  states  in  the  introduction 
to  his  final  railroad  report,  page  18,  "  whenever  I  assembled  a 
tribe  in  council,  to  procure  from  them  their  own  rude  sketches 
of  the  country,  and  a  map  was  invariably  prepared  on  a  large 
scale  and  shown  to  them,  exhibiting  not  only  the  region  occu- 
pied by  them,  but  the  reservations  that  were  proposed  to  be 
secured  to  them.  At  the  Blackfoot  council,  the  map  there 
exhibited  of  the  Blackfoot  country  —  of  the  hunting-ground 
common  to  the  Blackfeet  and  the  Assiniboines,  of  the  hunting- 
ground  common  to  the  Blackfeet  and  the  tribes  of  "Washington 
Territory,  and  of  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  by  which 
this  hunting-ground  was  reached  —  was  the  effective  agent  in 
guaranteeing  to  the  Indians  the  exact  facts  as  to  what  the 
treaty  did  propose,  and  to  give  them  absolute  and  entire  con- 
fidence in  the  government." 

He  always  urged  and  encouraged  the  Indians  to  make 
known  their  own  views,  wishes,  and  objections,  and  gave 
them  time  to  talk  matters  over  among  themselves  and 
make  up  their  minds.  Between  the  sessions  of  the  coun- 
cil he  would  have  the  agents  and  interpreters  explain  the 
terms  and  point  out  the  benefits  of  the  proposed  treaty, 
and  would  frequently  summon  the  chiefs  to  his  tent,  and 
personally  explain  matters  to  them,  and  draw  out  their 
ideas.  He  also  frequently  invited  public  officers,  and 
citizens  of  standing,  to  attend  the  councils,  and  would 


456  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

make  use  of  them  also  to  talk  with  and  satisfy  the  In- 
dians. All  the  proceedings  of  these  councils,  the  delib- 
erations and  speeches  as  well  as  the  treaties,  were  every 
word  carefully  taken  down  in  writing,  and  transmitted  to 
the  Indian  Bureau  in  Washington,  where  they  are  now 
on  file.  No  one  can  read  these  records  without  being 
impressed  with  Governor  Stevens's  great  benevolence 
towards  the  Indians,  and  the  absolute  fairness,  candor, 
and  patience,  as  well  as  the  judgment  and  tact,  he  man- 
ifested in  dealing  with  them.  One  is  also  likely  to  be 
enlightened  as  to  the  native  intelligence,  ability,  and 
shrewdness  of  the  Indians  themselves. 

The  first  council  was  held  on  She-nah-nam,  or  Medi- 
cine Creek,  now  known  as  McAlister's  Creek,  a  mile 
above  its  mouth  on  the  right  bank,  just  below  the  house 
of  Hartman,  on  a  rising  and  wooded  spot  a  few  acres  in 
extent,  like  an  island  with  the  creek  on  the  one  side 
(south)  and  the  tide-marsh  on  the  other.  This  stream 
flows  along  the  south  side  of  the  Nisqually  bottom, 
parallel  to  and  half  a  mile  from  the  river.  The  governor 
and  his  party,  including  Mason,  Lieutenant  W.  A. 
Slaughter,  of  the  4th  infantry,  Doty,  Gibbs,  Edward 
Giddings,  and  the  governor's  son,  Hazard,  a  boy  of 
twelve,  went  down  to  the  treaty  ground  by  canoes  on 
December  24,  and  found  a  large  space  cleared  of  under- 
brush, the  tents  pitched,  and  everything  made  ready  for 
the  council  by  Simmons,  Shaw,  Cock,  Cushman,  and 
others,  who  had  been  sent  ahead  for  that  purpose.  Seven 
hundred  Indians  of  the  tribes  dwelling  upon  the  upper 
Sound  and  as  far  down  as  the  Puyallup  River,  including 
the  Nisqually,  Puyallup,  and  Squaxon  tribes,  were  en- 
camped near  by.  It  rained  nearly  all  day.  In  the  after- 
noon the  Indians  drove  a  large  band  of  ponies  across  the 
creek,  forcing  them  to  swim.  Provisions  were  issued  to 
the  chiefs  to  distribute  among  their  people. 


COUNCIL  OF  MEDICINE  CREEK  457 

On  the  following  day  the  Indians  assembled,  taking 
seats  on  the  ground  in  front  of  the  council  tent  in  semi- 
circular rows,  and  the  objects  and  points  of  the  proposed 
treaty  were  fully  explained  to  them.  The  governor  would 
utter  a  sentence  in  simple  and  clear  language,  and  Colo- 
nel Shaw  would  interpret  it  in  the  Chinook  jargon,  which 
nearly  all  the  Indians  understood.  The  governor  was 
extremely  careful  to  make  the  Indians  comprehend  every 
sentence.  Colonel  Simmons,  Gibbs,  Cushman,  and  the 
citizens  present,  all  knew  the  Chinook,  and  attentively 
followed  Shaw  as  he  interpreted,  so  that  no  mistake  or 
omission  could  occur.  It  was  slow  and  fatiguing  work, 
this  going  over  the  ground  sentence  by  sentence,  and 
after  several  hours  the  Indians  were  dismissed  for  the  day, 
told  to  think  over  what  they  had  heard,  and  to  assemble 
again  the  next  morning.  The  governor  wished  to  give 
them  time  to  fully  understand  and  reflect  upon  the 
proposed  treaty,  and  encouraged  them  to  talk  freely  to 
himself  or  any  of  his  assistants  in  regard  to  it. 

On  the  26th  the  Indians  assembled  about  nine  o'clock 
to  the  number  of  650,  and  Governor  Stevens  addressed 
them  as  follows  :  — 

"  This  is  a  great  day  for  you  and  for  us,  a  day  of  peace  arid 
friendship  between  you  and  the  whites  for  all  time  to  come. 
You  are  about  to  be  paid  for  your  lands,  and  the  Great  Father 
has  sent  me  to-day  to  treat  with  you  concerning  the  payment. 
The  Great  Father  lives  far  off.  He  has  many  children.  Some 
of  those  children  came  here  when  he  knew  but  little  of  them,  or 
of  the  Indians,  and  he  sent  me  to  inquire  about  these  things. 
We  went  through  this  country  this  last  year,  learned  your  num- 
bers and  saw  your  wants.  We  felt  much  for  you,  and  went  to 
the  Great  Father  to  tell  him  what  we  had  seen.  The  Great 
Father  felt  for  his  children.  He  pitied  them,  and  he  has  sent 
me  here  to-day  to  express  these  feelings,  and  to  make  a  treaty 
for  your  benefit.  The  Great  Father  has  many  white  children 
who  come  here,  some  to  build  mills,  some  to  make  farms,  and 


458  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

some  to  fish ;  and  the  Great  Father  wishes  you  to  learn  to  farm, 
and  your  children  to  go  to  a  good  school ;  and  he  now  wants  me 
to  make  a  bargain  with  you,  in  which  you  will  sell  your  lands, 
and  in  return  be  provided  with  all  these  things.  You  will  have 
certain  lands  set  apart  for  your  homes,  and  receive  yearly  pay- 
ments of  blankets,  axes,  etc.  All  this  is  written  down  in  this 
paper,  which  will  be  read  to  you.  If  it  is  good  you  will  sign  it, 
and  I  will  then  send  it  to  the  Great  Father.  I  think  he  will 
be  pleased  with  it  and  say  it  is  good,  but  if  not,  if  he  wishes  it 
different,  he  will  say  so  and  send  it  back ;  and  then,  if  you  agree 
to  it,  it  is  a  fixed  bargain,  and  payments  will  be  made." 

The  treaty  was  then  read  section  by  section  and  ex- 
plained to  the  Indians,  and  every  opportunity  given  them 
to  discuss  it. 

Governor  Stevens  then  said  :  — 

"  The  paper  has  been  read  to  you.  Is  it  good  ?  If  it  is  good, 
we  will  sign  it ;  but  if  you  dislike  it  in  any  point,  say  so  now. 
After  signing  we  have  some  goods  to  give  you,  and  next  sum- 
mer will  give  you  some  more ;  and  after  that  you  must  wait 
until  the  paper  comes  back  from  the  Great  Father.  The  goods 
now  given  are  not  in  payment  for  your  lands ;  they  are  merely 
a  friendly  present." 

The  Indians  had  some  discussion,  and  Governor  Ste- 
vens then  put  the  question  :  "  Are  you  ready  ?  If  so,  I 
will  sign  it."  There  were  no  objections,  and  the  treaty 
was  then  signed  by  Governor  I.  I.  Stevens,  and  the  chiefs, 
delegates,  and  headmen  on  the  part  of  the  Indians,  and 
duly  witnessed  by  the  secretary,  special  agent,  and  seven- 
teen citizens  present. 

The  presents  and  provisions  were  then  given  to  the 
chiefs,  who  distributed  them  among  their  people.  To- 
wards evening  Mr.  Swan  arrived  with  twenty-nine  Indians 
of  the  Puyallup  tribe,  and  reported  twenty  more  on  the 
way.  They  had  started  three  days  before,  but  had  been 
detained  by  bad  weather.  The  governor  decided  to  send 
them  presents  from  Olympia. 


COUNCIL  OF  MEDICINE  CREEK  459 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the  governor  first  explained 
the  objects  and  terms  of  the  treaty  generally,  and  the 
next  day  had  the  text  of  it  read  to  them  and  also  ex- 
plained. The  idea  of  selling  their  lands  and  being  paid 
for  them  was  not  new  to  the  Indians,  for  the  settlers  were 
in  the  habit  of  assuring  them,  when  they  objected  and 
complained  at  the  appropriation  and  fencing  up  of  their 
choicest  camping,  root,  and  berry  grounds,  that  the  Great 
Father  would  soon  pay  them  well  for  their  country. 

The  scope  and  policy  of  the  treaty  will  best  appear  by 
the  following  abstract  of  its  thirteen  articles  :  — 

1.  The  Indians  cede  their  land  to  the  United  States, 
comprising  the  present  counties  of  Thurston,  Pierce,  and 
parts  of  Mason  and  King. 

2.  Sets  off  and  describes  the  reservations,  viz.,  Klah- 
she-min  Island,  known  as  Squaxon  Island,  situated  oppo- 
site the  mouths  of  Hammersley's  and  Totten's  inlets,  and 
separated  from  Hartstene  Island  by  Pearl  Passage,  con- 
taining about  two  sections  of  land,  or  1280  acres,  a  square 
tract  of  two  sections  near  and  south  of  the  mouth  of 
Mc  A  lister's  Creek,  and  another  equal  tract  on  the  south 
side  of  Commencement  Bay,  now  covered  by  the  city  of 
Tacoma.  Provision  is  made  for  the  Indians  to  remove 
to  these  reservations,  and  for  roads  through  them  and 
from  them  to  the  nearest  public  highways. 

3.  Gives  the  Indians  the  right  of  fishing  at  their  ac- 
customed grounds,  except  the  right  of  taking  shell-fish 
from  beds  staked  out  or  cultivated  by  citizens,  and  the 
rights  of  hunting,  gathering  berries  and  roots,  and  pas- 
turing herds  on  unclaimed  land. 

4.  $32,500  to  be  paid  in  annuities  of  goods,  clothing, 
and  useful  articles  during  the  next  twenty  years. 

5.  And  $3250  to  be  expended  in  aiding  the  Indians  to 
settle  on  their  reservations. 

6.  Empowers  the  President  to  remove  the  Indians  to 


460  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

other  reservations,  when  the  interests  of  the  Territory 
require  it,  by  remunerating  them  for  their  improvements. 

7.  Prohibits  the  use  of  annuities  to  pay  the  debts  of 
individuals. 

8.  Prohibits  war  or  depredations,  and  the  Indians 
agree  to  submit  all  grievances  to  the  government  for 
settlement. 

9.  Excludes  ardent  spirits  from  the  reservations  on 
penalty  of  withholding  annuities. 

10.  Provides  at  a  central  or  general  agency  a  free 
school,  a  blacksmith  shop,  and  a  carpenter  shop,  and  to 
furnish  a  blacksmith,  a  carpenter,  a  farmer,  and  teachers, 
all  to  give  instructions  for  twenty  years. 

11.  Frees  all  slaves  and  abolishes  slavery. 

12.  Prohibits  the  Indians  from  trading  outside  the 
dominions  of  the  United  States,  and  forbids  foreign  In- 
dians to  reside  on  the  reservations  without  the  permission 
of  the  superintendent  or  agent. 

13.  The  treaty  to  go  into  effect  as  soon  as  ratified  by 
the  President  and  Senate. 

The  twelfth  article  was  aimed  against  the  liquor  traffic, 
and  also  to  counteract  the  undue  influence  of  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company.  It  carried  out  the  idea  expressed  in 
the  governor's  instructions  to  McClellan  and  Saxton  at 
the  outset  of  the  exploration,  already  quoted.  "  The  In- 
dians must  look  to  us  for  protection  and  counsel.  ...  I 
am  determined,  in  my  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  to 
break  up  the  ascendency  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
and  permit  no  authority  or  sanction  to  come  between 
the  Indians  and  the  officers  of  this  government." 

Sixty-two  Indians  signed  this  treaty,  "  chiefs,  headmen, 
and  delegates  of  the  Nisqually,  Puyallup,  Steilacoom, 
Squawksin,  S'Homamish,  Steh-chass,  TTeek-sin,  Squiaitl, 
and  Sa-ha-wamish  tribes  and  bands  of  Indians,  occupy- 
ing the  lands  lying  around  the  head  of  Puget  Sound 


TREATY  OF  MEDICINE  CREEK  461 

and  the  adjacent  inlets,  who,  for  the  purpose  of  this 
treaty,  are  to  be  regarded  as  one  nation."  The  Indians 
all  made  their  marks  to  their  names  as  written  out  in 
full  by  the  secretary.  They  were :  Qui-ee-metl,  Sno-ho- 
dum-set,  Lesh-high,  Slip-o-elm,  Kwi-ats,  Sta-hi,  Di-a-keh, 
Hi-ten,  Squa-ta-hun,  Kahk-tse-min,  So-nan-o-youtl,  Kl- 
tehp,  Sahl-ko-min,  T'Bet-ste-heh-bit,  Tcha-hoos-tan,  Ke- 
cha-hat,  Spee-peh,  Swe-yah-tum,  Chah-achsh,  Pich-kehd, 
S'Klah-o-sum,  Sah-le-tatl,  See-lup,  E-la-kah-ka,  Slug-yeh, 
Hi-nuk,  Ma-mo-nish,  Cheels,  Knut-ca-nu,  Bats-ta-ko-be, 
Win-ne-ya,  Klo-out,  Se-uch-ka-nam,  Ske-mah-han,  Wuts- 
un-a-pum,  Quuts-a-tadm,  Quut-a-heh-mtsn,  Yah-leh-chn, 
To-tahl-kut,  Yul-lout,  See-ahts-oot-soot,  Ye-tah-ko,  We-po- 
it-ee,  Kah-sld,  La'h-hom-kan,  Pah-how-at-ish,  Swe-yehm, 
Sah-hwill,  Se-kwaht,  Kah-hum-kit,  Yah-kwo-bah,  Wut- 
sah-le-wun,  Sah-ba-hat,  Tel-e-kish,  Swe-keh-nam,  Sit-oo-ah, 
Ko-quel-a-cut,  Jack,  Keh-kise-be-lo,  Go-yeh-hn,  Sah-putsh, 
William. 

Lesh-high,  the  third  signer,  was  the  principal  chief 
and  instigator  of  the  Indian  war  that  broke  out  the  fol- 
lowing year,  and,  after  the  outbreak  was  suppressed,  was 
tried  and  executed  for  the  murder  of  settlers,  after  an 
excited  controversy  and  strenuous  efforts  to  save  him  on 
the  part  of  some  of  the  regular  officers.  Born  of  a  Ya- 
kima mother,  he  was  a  chief  of  unusual  intelligence  and 
energy,  had  much  to  do  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's 
people  at  Fort  Nisqually,  by  whom  he  was  much  trusted  as 
a  guide  and  hunter,  and  was  supposed  to  be  well  affected 
towards  the  whites.  The  first  signer,  Qui-ee-muth,  was 
Lesh-high's  brother,  and  met  with  a  more  tragic  fate, 
being  slain  by  a  revengeful  settler  after  he  was  captured. 
Sta-hi,  the  fifth  signer,  was  killed  during  the  Indian  war. 

The  witnesses  who  signed  the  treaty,  nineteen  in  num- 
ber, including  well-known  public  men  and  pioneers,  were 
the  following:    M.  T.  Simmons,  Indian  agent;  James 


462  ISAAC  LNGALLS  STEVENS 

Doty,  secretary ;  C.  H.  Mason,  secretary  of  the  Territory ; 
W.  A.  Slaughter,  1st  lieutenant,  4th  infantry,  U.  S.  A. ; 
James  McAlister,  E.  Giddings,  Jr.,  George  Shazer,  Henry 
D.  Cock,  Orrington  Cushman,  S.  S.  Ford,  Jr.,  John  W. 
McAlister,  Peter  Anderson,  Samuel  Klady,  W.  H.  Pullen, 
F.  0.  Hough,  E.  R.  Tyerall,  George  Gibbs,  Benjamin  F. 
Shaw,  interpreter,  Hazard  Stevens. 

The  governor  became  satisfied  at  a  later  date  that  the 
reservations  set  off  for  the  Nisquallies  and  Puyallups  were 
inadequate  for  their  future  needs,  being  of  inferior  soil 
and  heavily  timbered,  and  in  1856  caused  them  to  be  ex- 
changed for  two  larger  tracts  of  fine,  fertile  bottom  land, 
—  one  on  the  Nisqually,  a  few  miles  above  its  mouth,  and 
the  other  at  the  mouth  of  the  Puyallup  River,  directly 
opposite  the  city  of  Tacoma,  which  the  Indians  still  oc- 
cupy. 

In  the  evening,  after  the  council  broke  up,  the  governor 
had  another  long  conference  with  his  advisory  board, 
and  settled  the  points  and  programme  for  other  treaties. 
The  next  morning,  directing  Gibbs  to  survey  the  lines  of 
the  two  reservations  on  Nisqually  and  Commencement 
bays,  and  dispatching  Simmons  and  Shaw  with  the  rest 
of  the  party  in  the  schooner  to  the  lower  Sound  to  assem- 
ble the  Indians  for  the  remaining  treaties,  he  returned 
to  Olympia  with  Mason  and  Doty.  The  treaty  was  imme- 
diately forwarded  to  Washington,  and  was  ratified  by  the 
Senate,  March  3,  1855,  but  little  over  two  months  after 
the  council. 

THE   TREATY    OF   POINT    ELLIOTT. 

The  next  council  was  held  at  Mukilteo,  or  Point  Elliott, 
where,  between  January  12  and  21,  the  Indians  of  the 
east  side  of  the  Sound  assembled  to  the  number  of  2300. 
On  the  latter  date  Governor  Stevens  arrived  on  the 
Major  Tompkins,  accompanied  by  Secretary  Mason,  and 


COUNCIL  OF  POINT  ELLIOTT  463 

by  his  friend,  Dr.  C.  M.  Hitchcock,  of  San  Francisco, 
who  was  visiting  the  country.  After  a  long  conference 
with  his  assistants  in  regard  to  the  most  suitable  points 
for  reservations,  and  the  views  and  feelings  of  the  Indi- 
ans, he  appointed  Gibbs  secretary,  in  place  of  Doty,  who 
had  departed  on  his  mission  east  of  the  mountains,  and 
directed  him  to  prepare  the  draft  of  a  treaty  embodying 
the  points  decided  upon,  and  in  terms  similar  to  the  one 
recently  concluded. 

The  next  morning  the  Indians  all  assembled ;  the  four 
head  chiefs  —  Seattle,  chief  of  the  Duwhamish  and  other 
bands  on  White  River  and  the  Sound  within  twenty  miles 
of  Seattle ;  Pat-ka-nim,  chief  of  the  Snohomish  ;  Goliah, 
chief  of  the  Skagits ;  and  Chow-its-hoot,  chief  of  the 
Bellingham  Bay  and  island  Indians  —  took  seats  in  front 
on  the  ground  ;  the  sub-chiefs  occupied  a  second  row,  and 
the  various  tribes  took  places  behind  them  in  separated 
groups.  The  governor  then  addressed  them  as  follows, 
Colonel  Shaw  interpreting  :  — 

"  My  children,  you  are  not  my  children  because  you  are 
the  fruit  of  my  loins,  but  because  you  are  children  for  whom  I 
have  the  same  feeling  as  if  you  were  the  fruit  of  my  loins. 
You  are  my  children  for  whom  I  will  strenuously  labor  all  the 
days  of  my  life  until  I  shall  be  taken  hence.  What  will  a  man 
do  for  his  own  children?  He  will  see  that  they  are  well  cared 
for  ;  that  they  have  clothes  to  protect  them  against  the  cold  and 
rain  ;  that  they  have  food  to  guard  them  against  hunger ;  and 
as  for  thirst,  you  have  your  own  glorious  streams  in  which  to 
quench  it.  I  want  you  as  my  children  to  be  fed  and  clothed, 
and  made  comfortable  and  happy.  I  find  that  many  of  you 
are  Christians,  and  I  saw  among  you  yesterday  the  sign  of  the 
cross,  which  I  think  the  most  holy  of  all  signs.  I  address  you 
therefore  mainly  as  Christians,  who  know  that  this  life  is  a  pre- 
paration for  the  life  to  come. 

"You  understand  well  my  purpose,  and  you  want  now  to 
know  the  special  things  we  propose  to  do  for  you.  We  want 
to  place  you  in  homes  where  you  can  cultivate  the  soil,  raising 


464  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

potatoes  and  other  articles  of  food,  and  where  you  may  be  able 
to  pass  in  canoes  over  the  waters  of  the  Sound  and  catch  fish, 
and  back  to  the  mountains  to  get  roots  and  berries.  The  Great 
Father  desires  this,  and  why  am  I  able  to  say  this  ?  Here  are 
two  thousand  men,  women,  and  children,  who  have  always 
treated  white  men  well.  Did  I  not  come  through  your  country 
one  year  since  ?  Were  not  many  of  you  now  present  witnesses 
of  the  fact  ?  [All  said  Governor  Stevens  came.]  Did  I  then 
make  promises  to  you  ?  [All  said  he  did  not.]  I  am  glad  to 
hear  this,  because  I  came  through  your  country,  not  to  make 
promises,  but  to  know  what  you  were,  to  know  what  you  wanted, 
to  know  your  grievances,  and  to  report  to  the  Great  Father 
about  you.  I  have  been  to  the  Great  Father  and  told  him  your 
condition.  Here  on  this  Sound  you  make  journeys  of  three  and 
four  days,  but  I  made  a  journey  of  fifty  days  on  your  behalf. 
I  told  the  Great  Father  I  had  traveled  six  moons  in  reaching 
this  country,  and  had  never  found  an  Indian  who  would  not 
give  me  food,  raiment,  and  animals  to  forward  me  and  mine  to 
the  great  country  of  the  West.  I  told  him  that  I  was  among 
ten  thousand  Indians,  and  they  took  me  to  their  lodges  and 
offered  me  all  they  had,  and  here  I  will  pause  and  ask  you  again 
if  you  do  not  know  that  I  have  been  absent  several  months  on 
this  business  ?  [All  shout,  '  Yes.']  I  went  away,  but  I  left 
a  good  and  strong  man  in  my  place.  I  call  upon  Governor 
Mason  to  speak  to  you." 

Mr.  Mason  then  addressed  them,  and  then  the  governor 
called  upon  Colonel  Simmons,  who  made  them  a  speech 
in  Chinook,  at  the  conclusion  of  which  the  Indians 
cheered. 

The  governor  then  resumed  :  — 

"  The  Great  Father  thinks  you  ought  to  have  homes,  and  he 
wants  you  to  have  a  school  where  your  children  can  learn  to 
read,  and  can  be  made  farmers  and  be  taught  trades.  He  is 
willing  you  should  catch  fish  in  the  waters,  and  get  roots  and 
berries  back  in  the  mountains.  He  wishes  you  all  to  be  virtu- 
ous and  industrious,  and  to  become  a  happy  and  prosperous 
community.  Is  this  good,  and  do  you  want  this  ?  If  not,  we 
will  talk  further.      [All  answer,  «  We  do.'] 


COUNCIL  OF  POINT  ELLIOTT  465 

"  My  children,  I  have  simply  told  you  the  heart  of  the  Great 
Father.  But  the  lands  are  yours,  and  we  mean  to  pay  you  for 
them.  We  thank  you  that  you  have  been  so  kind  to  all  the 
white  children  of  the  Great  Father  who  have  come  here  from 
the  East.  Those  white  children  have  always  told  you  you  would 
be  paid  for  your  lands,  and  we  are  now  here  to  buy  them. 

"  The  white  children  of  the  Great  Father,  but  no  more  his 
children  than  you  are,  have  come  here,  some  to  build  mills,  some 
to  till  the  land,  and  others  to  build  and  sail  ships.  My  chil- 
dren, I  believe  that  I  have  got  your  hearts.  You  have  my  heart. 
We  will  put  our  hearts  down  on  paper,  and  then  we  will  sign 
our  names.  I  will  send  that  paper  to  the  Great  Father,  and  if 
he  says  it  is  good,  it  will  stand  forever.  I  will  now  have  the 
paper  read  to  you,  and  all  I  ask  of  you  two  thousand  Indians 
is  that  you  will  say  just  what  you  think,  and,  if  you  find  it 
good,  that  your  chiefs  and  headmen  will  sign  the  same." 

Before  the  treaty  was  read,  the  Indians  sung  a  mass, 
after  the  Roman  Catholic  form,  and  recited  a  prayer. 

Governor  Stevens:  "Does  any  one  object  to  what  I  have 
said  ?  Does  my  venerable  friend  Seattle  object  ?  I  want  Seat- 
tle to  give  his  heart  to  me  and  to  his  people." 

Seattle :  "  I  look  upon  you  as  my  father.  All  the  Indians 
have  the  same  good  feeling  toward  you,  and  will  send  it  on 
the  paper  to  the  Great  Father.  All  of  them  —  men,  old  men, 
women,  and  children  —  rejoice  that  he  has  sent  you  to  take  care 
of  them.  My  mind  is  like  yours  ;  I  don't  want  to  say  more.  My 
heart  is  very  good  towards  Dr.  Maynard  [a  physician  who  was 
present]  ;  I  want  always  to  get  medicine  from  him." 

Governor  Stevens :  "  My  friend  Seattle  has  put  me  in  mind 
of  one  thing  which  I  had  forgotten.  You  shall  have  a  doctor 
to  cure  your  bodies.  Now,  my  friends,  I  want  you,  if  Seattle 
has  spoken  well,  to  say  so  by  three  cheers.  [Three  cheers 
were  given.]  Now  we  call  upon  Pat-ka-nim  to  speak  his 
mind." 

Pat-ka-nim :  "  To-day  I  understood  your  heart  as  soon  as  you 
spoke.  I  understood  your  talk  plainly.  God  made  my  heart 
and  those  of  my  people  good  and  strong.  It  is  good  that  we 
should  give  you  our  real  feelings  to-day.     We  want  everything 


466  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

as  you  have  said,  the  doctor  and  all.  Such  is  the  feeling  of 
all  the  Indians.  Our  hearts  are  with  the  whites.  God  makes 
them  good  towards  the  Americans."  [Three  cheers  were  given 
for  Pat-ka-nim.] 

Chow-its-hoot :  "  I  do  not  want  to  say  much.  My  heart  is 
good.  God  has  made  it  good  towards  you.  I  work  on  the 
ground,  raise  potatoes,  and  build  houses.  I  have  some  houses  at 
home.  But  I  will  stop  building  if  you  wish,  and  will  move  to 
Cha-chu-sa.  Now  I  have  given  you  my  opinion,  and  that  of 
my  friends.  Their  feelings  are  all  good,  and  they  will  do  as 
you  say  hereafter.  My  mind  is  the  same  as  Seattle's.  I  love 
him,  and  send  my  friends  to  him  if  they  are  sick.  I  go  to  Dr. 
Maynard  at  Seattle  if  I  am  sick."     [Cheers  for  Chow-its-hoot.] 

Goliah :  "  My  mind  is  the  same  as  the  governor's.  God  has 
made  it  so.  I  have  no  wish  to  say  much.  I  am  happy  at  heart. 
I  am  happy  to  hear  the  governor  talk  of  God.  My  heart  is 
good  and  that  of  all  my  friends.  I  give  it  to  the  governor.  I 
shall  be  glad  to  have  a  doctor  for  the  Indians.  We  are  all 
glad  to  hear  you,  and  to  be  taken  care  of  by  you.  I  do  not 
want  to  say  more."      [Cheers  were  given  for  Goliah.] 

The  treaty  was  then  read  and  interpreted  to  them,  and 
the  governor  asked  them  if  they  were  satisfied  with  it. 
If  they  were,  he  would  sign  it  first,  and  then  they  should 
sign  it.  If  not,  he  wished  them  to  state  in  what  they 
desired  it  to  be  altered.  All  having  signified  their  ap- 
probation, it  was  signed  first  by  Governor  Stevens,  and 
afterwards  by  the  chiefs  and  headmen. 

The  hour  being  late  when  the  signing  was  finished, 
the  distribution  of  the  presents  was  deferred  to  the  next 
day. 

Tuesday,  January  23.  The  Indians  having  reassem- 
bled, Governor  Stevens  informed  them  that  he  was  about 
to  distribute  some  presents.  They  were  not  intended  as 
payment  for  their  lands,  but  merely  as  a  friendly  token 
of  regard.  He  gave  them  but  few  things  at  this  time, 
but  the  next  summer  he  should  again  give  them  a  larger 
present,  when  the  goods  intended  for  them  arrived. 


TREATY  OF  POINT  ELLIOTT  467 

Seattle  then  brought  a  white  flag,  and  presented  it, 
saying :  — 

"  Now,  by  this  we  make  friends,  and  put  away  all  bad  feel- 
ings, if  we  ever  had  any.  We  are  the  friends  of  the  Americans. 
All  the  Indians  are  of  the  same  mind.  We  look  upon  you  as 
our  father.  We  will  never  change  our  minds,  but,  since  you 
have  been  to  see  us,  we  will  always  be  the  same.  Now !  now ! 
do  you  send  this  paper  of  our  hearts  to  the  Great  Chief.  That 
is  all  I  have  to  say." 

The  presents  were  then  given  to  the  chiefs  to  distrib- 
ute among  their  people,  the  camp  was  struck,  and  the 
party  embarked  on  board  the  steamer,  which  had  been 
chartered  for  the  purpose  of  expediting  the  preparations 
for  the  next  council,  that  with  the  S'Klallams  and  Sko- 
ko-mish,  but,  a  heavy  blow  coming  on,  she  lay  at  anchor 
till  morning.  An  Indian  express  arrived  with  news 
that  the  Indians  were  collected  at  Fort  Gamble,  awaiting 
the  arrival  of  the  governor. 

The  tribes,  as  enumerated  in  the  treaty,  furnish  a  long 
list  of  unpronounceable  Indian  names,  as  follows :  Dwam- 
ish,  Suquamish,  Sk-tahl-mish,  Sa-mah-mish,  Smalh-ka-mish, 
Skope-ah-mish,  Sno-qual-nioo,  Skai-wha-mish,  N'Quentl- 
ma-mish,  Sk-tah-le-jum,  Sto-luck-wha-mish,  Sno-ho-mish, 
Skagit,  Kik-i-all-us,  Swin-a-mish,  Squin-a-mish,  Sah-ku- 
me-hu,  Noo-wha-ha,  Nook-wa-chah-mish,  Me-see-qua-guilch, 
Cho-bah-ah-bish,  and  others. 

The  fifteen  articles  of  this  treaty  contain  the  same  gen- 
eral provisions  as  that  of  She-nah-nam  Creek.  The  terri- 
tory ceded  by  Article  1  extends  from  the  summit  of  the 
Cascades  to  the  middle  of  the  Sound,  and  from  the  49th 
parallel  as  far  south  as  the  Puyallup  Eiver,  very  nearly, 
and  comprises  the  present  counties  of  King,  part  of  Kit- 
sap, Snohomish,  Skagit,  Whatcom,  Island,  and  San  Juan. 

The  reservations,  Articles  2  and  3,  included  1280  acres 
at  Port  Madison,  1280  acres  on  the  east  side  of  Fidalgo 


468  ISAAC   INGALLS  STEVENS 

Island,  and  the  island  called  Chah-chu-sa  in  the  Lummi 
River.  An  entire  township  on  the  northeast  side  of  Port 
Gardner,  embracing  Tulalip  Bay,  was  made  the  princi- 
pal reservation,  to  which  the  Indians  might  be  removed 
from  the  smaller  ones ;  $150,000  in  annuities  in  goods, 
etc.,  for  twenty  years,  and  $15,000  for  improvements  on 
the  reservation  were  provided.  The  rights  of  fishing, 
hunting,  gathering  berries  and  roots,  and  pasturage  on 
vacant  land  were  secured  to  the  Indians.  Slavery  was 
abolished,  liquor  prohibited  on  the  reservations,  wars  and 
depredations  forbidden,  and  trading  in  foreign  dominions 
prohibited.  A  free  school,  teachers,  doctor,  blacksmith 
and  carpenter  with  shops,  and  a  farmer  were  provided  for, 
and  provision  made  for  eventually  allotting  the  reserva- 
tions to  them  in  severalty. 

The  first  chief  to  sign  the  treaty  was  Seattle,  after 
whom  was  named  the  metropolis  of  the  Sound ;  the  next 
was  Pat-ka-nim,  then  Chow-its-hoot,  then  Goliah,  and 
then  follows  the  long  list  of  guttural  and  sibillant  native 
names,  unspeakable  by  white  lips,  some  of  which  were 
accompanied  by  an  alias,  as  the  Smoke,  the  Priest, 
General  Washington,  General  Pierce,  Davy  Crockett,  etc. 

The  treaty  was  witnessed  by  M.  T.  Simmons,  C.  H. 
Mason,  Charles  M.  Hitchcock,  H.  A.  Goldsborough,  George 
Gibbs,  John  H.  Scranton,  Henry  D.  Cock,  S.  S.  Ford,  Jr., 
Orrington  Cushman,  Ellis  Barnes,  P.  Bailey,  S.  M.  Col- 
lins, Lafayette  Balch,  E.  S.  Fowler,  J.  H.  Hall,  Robert 
Davis,  and  Benjamin  F.  Shaw,  —  seventeen  in  number. 

The  ratification  of  this  and  all  Governor  Stevens's  sub- 
sequent Indian  treaties  was  delayed  some  four  years  in 
consequence  of  the  Indian  war  which  broke  out  in  the 
fall  of  1855,  and  the  misrepresentations  made  concerning 
them,  and  the  charges  that  they  were  the  cause  of  the 
war,  —  misrepresentations  and  charges  originally  started 
by  the  hostile  Indians,  and  taken  up  by  prejudiced  army 


COUNCIL  OF  HAHD-SKUS  469 

officers  and  political  and  personal  enemies ;  and  it  was 
not  until  he  entered  Congress,  and  personally  vindicated 
his  treaties  before  the  government  and  Senate,  that  they 
were  ratified,  on  March  8, 1859. 

TREATY   OF    HAHD-SKUS   OR   POINT-NO-POINT. 

The  next  council  was  held  at  Point-no-Point,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Sound,  opposite  the  southern  end  of 
Whitby  Island.  The  weather  was  very  stormy  on  the 
24th  and  25th,  but  twelve  hundred  Indians  assembled 
here,  comprising  the  S'Klallams  or  Clallams,  who  occu- 
pied the  shores  from  half  way  down  the  Strait  of  Fuca 
to  the  council  ground ;  the  Chim-a-kums,  of  Port  Town- 
send  Bay  and  the  lower  end  of  Hood's  Canal ;  and  the 
Skokomish  or  Too-an-hooch,  from  Hood's  Canal  and  the 
country  about  its  southern  extremity.  The  Major  Tomp- 
kins reached  Point-no-Point  on  the  24th,  and,  leaving  the 
schooner  at  anchor,  and  the  men  on  shore  to  form  camp, 
ran  down  to  Port  Townsend  to  bring  up  additional  provi- 
sions, and  returned  in  the  afternoon.  On  the  25th,  not- 
withstanding the  storm,  the  Indians  gathered  at  the 
council  ground,  and,  having  seated  themselves  in  a  cir- 
cular row  under  their  chiefs,  Governor  Stevens  addressed 
them  as  follows  :  — 

"  My  children,  you  call  me  your  father.  I,  too,  have  a 
father,  who  is  your  Great  Father.  That  Great  Father  has 
sent  me  here  to-day  to  pay  you  for  your  lands,  to  provide  for 
your  children,  to  see  that  you  are  fed,  and  that  you  are  cared 
for.  Your  Great  Father  wishes  you  to  be  happy,  to  be  friends 
to  each  other.  The  Great  Father  wants  you  and  the  whites  to 
be  friends ;  he  wants  you  to  have  a  house  of  your  own,  to  have  a 
school  where  your  children  can  learn.  He  wants  you  to  learn 
to  farm,  to  learn  to  use  tools,  and  also  to  have  a  doctor.  Now, 
all  these  things  shall  be  written  down  in  a  paper ;  that  paper 
shall  be  read  to  you.  If  the  paper  is  good,  you  will  sign  it 
and  I  will  sign  it.     I  will  then  send  the  paper  to  the  Great 


470  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

Father.  If  the  Great  Father  finds  that  paper  good,  he  will 
send  me  word,  and  I  will  let  you  know.  The  Great  Father 
lives  a  long  way  off,  and  some  time  will  be  required  to  hear 
from  him.  I  want  you  to  wait  patiently  till  you  hear  from 
him.  In  the  mean  time  the  Great  Father  has  sent  to  you  some 
presents  simply  as  a  free  gift.  Some  of  these  presents  I  will 
give  you  to-day,  but  I  shall  give  you  more  in  the  course  of  the 
summer.  You  will  also  have  your  agent,  Mr.  Simmons,  to  take 
care  of  you.  This  you  will  have  all  the  time ;  and,  when  the 
paper  comes  from  the  Great  Father,  then  you  will  have  your 
own  houses  and  homes  and  schools.  Now,  what  have  you  to 
say  ?  If  good,  give  your  assent ;  if  not,  say  so.  Now,  sit  quiet 
a  moment,  and  the  paper  will  be  read." 

After  the  treaty  had  been  read  and  interpreted,  Gov- 
ernor Stevens  again  asked  them  if  they  had  anything  to 
say. 

Che-lan-teh-tat,  an  old  Skokomish,  then  rose  and 
said :  — 

"  I  wish  to  speak  my  mind  as  to  selling  the  land.  Great 
Chief,  what  shall  we  eat  if  we  do  so  ?  Our  only  food  is  berries, 
deer,  and  salmon.  Where,  then,  shall  we  find  these  ?  I  don't 
want  to  sign  away  all  my  land.  Take  half  of  it,  and  let  us 
keep  the  rest.  I  am  afraid  that  I  shall  become  destitute  and 
perish  for  want  of  food.  I  don't  like  the  place  you  have  chosen 
for  us  to  live  on.     I  am  not  ready  to  sign  that  paper." 

S'Haie-at-seha-uk,  a  To-an-hooch,  next  spoke  :  — 

"  I  do  not  want  to  leave  the  mouth  of  the  river.  I  do  not 
want  to  leave  my  old  home  and  my  burying-ground.  I  am 
afraid  I  shall  die  if  I  do." 

Dah-whil-luk,  the  Skokomish  head  chief,  an  old  man, 
rose  and  said  :  — 

"  I  do  not  want  to  sell  my  land,  because  it  is  valuable.  The 
whites  pay  a  great  deal  for  a  small  piece,  and  they  get  money 
by  selling  the  sticks  [timber].  Formerly  the  Indians  slept, 
but  the  whites  came  among  them  and  woke  them  up,  and  we 
now  know  that  the  lands  are  worth  much." 


COUNCIL  OF  HAHD-SKUS  471 

Hool-hole-tan  or  Jim  said  :  — 

"  I  want  to  speak.  I  do  not  like  the  offers  you  make  in  the 
treaty  to  us.  You  say  you  will  give  us  land,  but  why  should 
you  give  us  the  mouth  of  the  river  ?  I  don't  like  to  go  on  a 
reservation  with  the  S'Klallams ;  and,  in  case  of  trouble,  there 
are  more  of  them  than  of  us,  and  they  will  charge  us  with  it. 
Before  the  whites  came  among  us,  we  had  no  idea  who  made  the 
land;  but  some  time  ago  the  priests  told  us  that  the  Great 
Chief  above  made  it,  and  also  made  the  Indians.  Since  then 
the  Americans  have  told  us  that  the  Great  Father  always  bought 
the  land,  and  that  it  was  not  right  to  take  it  for  nothing.  They 
waked  the  Indians  up  by  this,  and  they  now  know  their  land 
was  worth  much.  I  don't  want  to  sign  away  my  right  to  the 
land.  If  it  was  myself  alone  I  signed  for,  I  would  do  it ;  but 
we  have  women  and  children.  Let  us  keep  half  of  it,  and  take 
the  rest.  Why  should  we  sell  all?  We  may  become  desti- 
tute. Why  not  let  us  live  together  with  you  ?  I  want  you  to 
hear  what  I  have  to  say.  All  the  Indians  have  been  afraid  to 
talk,  but  I  wish  to  speak  and  be  listened  to." 

Chits-a-mah-han  or  the  Duke  of  York,  the  head  chief 
of  the  Clallams  :  — 

"My  heart  is  good.  I  am  happy  since  I  have  heard  the 
paper  read,  and  since  I  have  understood  Governor  Stevens, 
particularly  since  I  have  been  told  I  could  look  for  food  where 
I  pleased,  and  not  in  one  place  only.  Formerly  the  Indians  were 
bad  towards  each  other,  but  Governor  Stevens  has  made  them 
agree  to  be  friends.  Before  the  whites  came  we  were  always 
poor ;  since  then  we  have  earned  money,  and  got  blankets  and 
clothing.  I  hope  the  governor  will  tell  the  whites  not  to  abuse 
the  Indians,  as  many  are  in  the  habit  of  doing,  ordering  them 
to  go  away,  and  knocking  them  down." 

Other  chiefs  of  the  Clallams  and  of  the  Chem-a-cums 
followed  in  the  same  strain  as  the  Duke  of  York,  approv- 
ing the  treaty.  After  further  explaining  its  provisions 
the  governor  adjourned  the  council  to  the  morrow  at  the 
request  of  the  Skokomish  chief,  in  order  that  they  might 
talk  it  over  and  understand  it  thoroughly. 


472  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

It  will  be  observed  that  this  treaty  encountered  con- 
siderable opposition  on  the  part  of  the  Skokomish,  who 
were,  however,  the  most  benefited  by  it,  as  the  reserva- 
tion was  located  in  their  country.  They  were  largely 
influenced  by  the  example  of  the  other  tribes,  and  after 
much  discussion  among  themselves,  and  talks  between 
sessions  with  the  governor  and  his  assistants,  concluded 
to  accept  it. 

The  next  morning  was  a  fine,  pleasant  one,  and  the 
Indians  came  to  the  council  bearing  white  flags.  The 
governor  addressed  them,  pointing  out  that  the  treaty 
gave  them  all  those  things  that  a  father  would  give  his 
children,  as  homes,  schools,  mechanics,  and  a  doctor ;  the 
right  to  fish,  hunt,  and  gather  roots  and  berries.  Besides, 
it  prohibited  fire-water,  and  does  not  a  father  prevent  his 
children  from  drinking  fire-water  ?  The  Great  Father 
was  good  to  his  children,  and  did  not  wish  to  steal  their 
lands.  It  was  for  them  to  say  what  they  thought  right. 
If  they  had  anything  to  say,  say  it  now. 

The  Duke  of  York  then  presented  a  white  flag,  saying : 

"  My  heart  is  white,  so  are  those  of  my  people,  and  we  will 
never  stain  it  with  blood." 

Dah-kwil-luk,  the  Skokomish  chief,  said  :  — 

"  My  heart,  too,  has  become  white,  and  I  give  it  to  the  chief. 
I  put  away  all  bad  feelings.  I  will  be  as  a  good  man,  not  steal- 
ing or  shedding  blood.  We  have  thrown  away  the  feelings  of 
yesterday  and  are  now  satisfied.'' 

He  also  presented  a  flag  to  the  governor. 

Kul-kah-han,  the  Chem-a-cum  chief,  then  presented  his 
flag,  saying:  — 

"  We  can  say  nothing  but  what  this  flag  tells.  We  give  our 
hearts  to  you  with  it  in  return  for  what  you  do  for  us.  We 
were  once  wretched,  but  since  you  came  you  have  made  us  right. 
Formerly  other  Indians  did  wrong  us,  but  since  the  whites  came 
we  are  free  and  have  not  been  killed." 


SAILING  DOWN  THE  STRAIT  OF  FUCA  473 

Then  all  signed  the  treaty,  and  at  a  signal  a  salute  was 
fired  from  the  steamer  in  honor  of  the  event. 

Some  hostile  feelings  having  previously  existed  between 
the  tribes,  Governor  Stevens  now  declared  that  they  must 
drop  them  forever,  and  that  their  hearts  towards  each 
other  should  be  good  as  well  as  towards  the  whites.  Ac- 
cordingly the  three  head  chiefs,  in  behalf  of  their  people, 
then  shook  hands.  Then  the  presents  were  distributed  to 
them.  In  the  afternoon  the  party  reembarked,  Mr.  Mason 
returning  to  Olympia  on  the  steamer,  and  Governor  Ste- 
vens with  the  remainder  proceeding  to  Port  Townsend  in 
the  schooner,  on  his  way  to  Cape  Flattery,  the  next  point 
of  meeting. 

The  tribes  mentioned  in  the  treaty  as  parties  thereto 
are  the  Skokomish,  To-an-hooch,  Chem-a-cum,  and  S'Klal- 
lam,  and  the  sub-bands  of  the  last,  viz.,  Kah-tie,  Squah- 
quaihtl,  Tch-queen,  Ste-teht-lum,  Tsohkw,  Yennis,  Elh-wa, 
Pishtst,  Hun-nint,  Klat-la-wash,  and  O-ke-ho,  occupying 
lands  on  the  Strait  of  Fuca  and  Hood's  Canal. 

A  reservation  was  set  off  at  the  mouth  of  the  Skoko- 
mish River,  of  3840  acres.  $60,000  in  the  usual  annui- 
ties, and  $6000  for  the  improvement  of  the  reservation, 
were  provided,  and  the  other  provisions  were  the  same 
as  in  the  Tulalip  and  She-nah-nam  Creek  treaties.  This 
treaty  was  witnessed  by  the  same  gentlemen  who  wit- 
nessed the  preceding. 

COUNCIL  OF  NEAH  BAY,  AND  MAKAH  TREATY. 

From  Port  Townsend  the  schooner  sped  rapidly  down 
the  Strait  of  Fuca,  running  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  in  two  days,  —  no  holiday  voyage,  in  a  small  vessel 
in  midwinter,  along  that  exposed  and  shelterless  coast,  — 
and  reached  Neah  Bay  on  the  evening  of  the  28th.  At 
this  point,  just  inside  Cape  Flattery,  the  Makah  Indians 
had  their  principal  village.    Messengers  were  immediately 


H 


474  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

dispatched  to  call  in  the  Indians  of  the  other  Makah 
villages,  and  of  tribes  farther  south  on  the  coast.  The 
tents,  goods,  and  men  were  landed  on  the  29th,  and  camp 
established.  The  following  day  the  governor,  accompa- 
nied by  Mr.  Gibbs,  crossed  the  Cape  Flattery  peninsula  to 
the  Pacific  coast,  and  examined  the  country  for  the  pur- 
pose of  selecting  a  suitable  reservation.  In  the  evening 
he  called  a  meeting  of  the  Makah  chiefs  on  board  the 
schooner,  the  other  villages  having  come  in  during  the 
day,  and  explained  the  principal  features  of  the  proposed 
treaty.  The  Great  Father  had  sent  him  here  to  watch 
over  the  Indians.  He  had  talked  with  the  other  tribes 
on  the  Sound,  and  they  had  promised  to  be  good  friends 
with  their  neighbors,  and  he  had  now  come  to  talk  with 
the  Makahs.  When  he  had  done  here,  he  was  going  to 
the  Indians  down  the  coast,  and  would  make  them  friends 
to  the  Makahs.  He  had  treated  with  the  other  Sound 
Indians  for  their  lands,  setting  aside  reserves  for  them, 
giving  them  a  school,  farmer,  physician,  etc.,  etc.  When 
he  concluded,  Kal-chote,  a  Makah  chief,  spoke  :  "  Before 
the  big  chiefs  Klehsitt,  the  White  Chief,  Yall-a-coon  or 
Flattery  Jack,  and  Heh-iks  died,  he  was  not  the  head 
chief  himself,  he  was  only  the  small  chief,  but  though 
there  were  many  Indians  then,  he  was  not  the  least  of 
them.  He  knew  the  country  all  around,  and  therefore 
he  had  a  right  to  speak.  He  thought  he  ought  to  have 
the  right  to  fish,  and  take  whales,  and  get  food  where  he 
liked.  He  was  afraid  that  if  he  could  not  take  halibut 
where  he  wanted,  he  would  become  poor." 

Keh-tchook,  of  the  stone  house:  "What  Kal-chote 
had  said  was  his  wish.  He  did  not  want  to  leave  the 
salt  water." 

Governor  Stevens  informed  them  that,  so  far  from 
wishing  to  stop  their  fisheries,  he  wished  to  send  them 
oil-kettles  and  fishing  apparatus. 


COUNCIL  OF  NEAH  BAY  475 

Klah-pr-at-loo  :  "  He  was  willing  to  sell  his  land.  All 
he  wanted  was  the  right  of  fishing." 

Tse-kan-wootl :  "  He  wanted  the  sea.  That  was  his 
country.  If  whales  were  killed  and  floated  ashore,  he 
wanted,  for  his  people,  the  exclusive  right  of  taking  them, 
and  if  their  slaves  ran  away,  he  wanted  to  get  them 
back." 

Governor  Stevens  replied  that  he  wanted  them  to  fish, 
but  the  whites  should  fish  also.  Whoever  killed  the 
whales  was  to  have  them  if  they  came  ashore.  Many 
white  men  were  coming  into  the  country,  and  he  did  not 
want  the  Indians  to  be  crowded  out. 

Kal-chote :  "  I  want  always  to  live  on  my  old  ground,  and 
to  die  on  it.  I  only  want  a  small  piece  for  a  house,  and  will 
live  as  a  friend  to  the  whites,  and  they  should  fish  together." 

Ke-bach-sat :  "  My  heart  is  not  bad,  but  I  do  not  wish  to 
leave  all  my  land.  I  am  willing  you  should  have  half,  but  I 
want  the  other  half  myself." 

It-an-da-ha :  "  My  father !  my  father !  I  now  give  you  my 
heart.  When  any  ships  come  and  the  whites  injure  me,  I  will 
apply  to  my  father,  and  tell  him  of  my  trouble,  and  look  to  him 
for  help,  and  if  any  Indians  wish  to  kill  me,  I  shall  still  call  on 
my  father.  I  do  not  wish  to  leave  the  salt  water.  I  want  to 
fish  in  common  with  the  whites.  I  don't  want  to  sell  all  my 
land.  I  want  a  part  in  common  with  the  whites  to  plant  pota- 
toes on.     I  want  the  place  where  my  house  is." 

Governor  Stevens  asked  them  whether,  if  the  right  of 
drying  fish  wherever  they  pleased  was  left  them,  they 
could  not  agree  to  live  at  one  place  for  a  winter  residence 
and  potato  ground,  explaining  the  idea  of  subdivision  of 
lands,  and  he  desired  them  to  think  the  matter  over  dur- 
ing the  night.  They  were  asked  to  consult  among  them- 
selves upon  the  choice  of  a  head  chief.  As  they  declined 
doing  this,  on  the  ground  that  they  were  all  of  equal  rank, 
the  governor  selected  Tse-kan-wootl,  the  Osett  chief,  as 
the  head,  a  choice  in  which  they  all  acquiesced  with  satis- 


476  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

faction.     Temporary  papers  in  lieu  of  commissions  were 
then  issued  to  a  number  of  the  sub-chiefs. 

The  Indians  assembled  in  council  on  the  morning  of 
January  31.  The  number  of  the  tribe  was  found  to  be 
six  hundred.  Governor  Stevens  explained  the  provisions 
of  the  treaty :  — 

"  The  Great  Father  sent  me  to  see  you,  and  give  you  his 
mind.  The  whites  are  crowding  in  upon  you.  The  Great 
Father  wishes  to  give  you  your  homes,  to  buy  your  land,  and 
give  a  fair  price  for  it,  leaving  you  land  enough  to  live  on  and 
raise  potatoes.  He  knows  what  whalers  you  are,  how  far  you 
go  to  sea  to  take  whales.  He  will  send  you  barrels  in  which  to 
put  your  oil,  kettles  to  try  it  out,  lines  and  implements  to  fish 
with.  The  Great  Father  wants  your  children  to  go  to  school, 
to  learn  trades." 

The  treaty  was  then  read  and  interpreted  and  ex- 
plained, clause  by  clause. 

Governor  Stevens  then  asked  them  if  they  were  satis- 
fied. If  they  were,  to  say  so.  If  not,  to  answer  freely 
and  state  their  objections. 

Tse-kan-wootl  brought  up  a  white  flag  and  presented 
it,  saying :  "  Look  at  this  flag.  See  if  there  are  any  spots 
on  it.    There  are  none,  and  there  are  none  on  our  hearts." 

Kal-chote  then  presented  another  flag  and  said,  "  What 
you  have  said  is  good,  and  what  you  have  written  is 
good." 

The  Indians  gave  three  cheers  or  shouts  as  each  con- 
cluded. The  governor  then  signed  the  treaty,  and  was 
followed  by  the  Indian  chiefs  and  principal  men,  forty- 
one  in  number,  of  the  Neah,  Waatch,  Tsoo-yess,  and 
Osett  villages,  or  bands  of  the  Makahs.  Among  the 
names  are  Klah-pe-an-hie  or  Andrew  Jackson,  Tchoo- 
quut-lah  or  Yes  Sir,  and  Swell  or  Jeff  Davis. 

The  witnesses  were  M.  T.  Simmons,  Indian  agent; 
George  Gibbs,  secretary;  B.  F.  Shaw,  interpreter;  C.  M. 


MAKAH  TREATY  477 

Hitchcock,  M.  D. ;  E.  S.  Fowler,  Orrington  Cushman,  and 
Robert  Davis. 

The  provisions  of  this  treaty  are  the  same  as  in  the  oth- 
ers. The  annuities  in  goods,  etc.,  amounted  to  $30,000, 
and  $3000  were  provided  to  improve  the  reservation, 
which  embraced  Neah  Bay  and  Cape  Flattery  and  their 
principal  village.  It  was  intended  only  for  a  place  of 
residence,  with  enough  cultivable  land  for  potatoes  and 
vegetables,  and,  what  was  more  important,  to  prevent  their 
being  crowded  off  by  fishing  establishments.  The  local- 
ity is  unfit  for  agriculture,  being  rocky  and  sterile,  with 
an  annual  rainfall  of  122  inches.  And  the  reserve  was 
all  they  needed,  for  the  Makahs  are  bold  and  skillful 
fishermen  and  sailors,  accustomed  to  venture  thirty  to 
fifty  miles  out  to  sea  in  their  large  canoes,  and  take  the 
whale  and  halibut,  while  inshore  they  hunt  the  seal  and 
sea-otter,  and  catch  the  salmon.  They  are  a  more  sturdy, 
brave,  and  enterprising  race  than  the  natives  of  the 
Sound,  more  resembling  the  northern  Indians.  In  their 
remote,  rocky  stronghold,  protected  by  the  strong  arm  of 
the  government  extended  over  them  by  this  treaty,  but 
depending  upon  the  sea  and  their  own  efforts  for  a  liveli- 
hood, they  have  prospered  greatly,  putting  up  vast  quan- 
tities of  fish,  furs,  and  oil  for  market ;  and  there  are  few 
white  communities  that  have  so  much  wealth  per  capita, 
or  wealth  so  evenly  distributed,  as  these  industrious  and 
manly  Indians. 

Immediately  after  the  signing  the  presents  were  dis- 
tributed, the  camp  was  broken  up,  and  in  the  evening  the 
party  reembarked.  The  little  vessel  at  once  hoisted  sail 
for  Port  Townsend,  where,  after  a  three  days'  trip,  being 
delayed  by  head  winds,  she  arrived  February  3.  The 
next  day  the  governor,  with  some  of  the  party,  took  the 
Major  Tompkins  for  Victoria,  in  order  to  confer  with 
Governor  Douglass  upon  the  means  of  preventing  the 


478  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

piratical  incursions  of  the  northern  Indians  upon  the 
Sound.  On  the  5th  he  returned  to  Port  Townsend,  and 
reached  Olympia  on  the  night  of  the  6th. 

This  brief  campaign  was  Napoleonic  in  rapidity  and 
success.  In  six  weeks  Governor  Stevens  met  and  treated 
with  five  thousand  Indians,  of  numerous  independent 
and  jealous  tribes  and  bands,  and  in  four  separate  coun- 
cils carefully  and  indefatigably  made  clear  to  them  the 
new  policy,  convinced  them  of  its  benefits  to  them,  and 
concluded  with  them  four  separate  treaties,  by  which  the 
Indian  title  to  the  whole  Puget  Sound  basin  was  ex- 
tinguished forever,  and  the  great  source  and  danger  of 
collision  between  the  races  was  removed.  For  the  eight 
thousand  five  hundred  Indians  hitherto  ignored  by  Con- 
gress and  treated  by  the  settlers  as  mere  vagrants,  to  be 
shoved  aside  at  the  whim  or  self-interest  of  any  white  man, 
he  established  nine  reservations,  containing  over  60,000 
acres,  for  their  permanent  homes  and  exclusive  posses- 
sions; provided  annuities  of  clothing,  goods,  and  useful 
articles  for  twenty  years,  aggregating  $300,000;  abol- 
ished slavery  and  war  among  them;  excluded  liquor  from 
the  reservations;  extended  over  them  the  protection  of  the 
government,  with  agents,  schools,  teachers,  farmers,  and 
mechanics  to  instruct  them;  and,  in  a  word,  set  their  feet 
fairly  on  "  the  white  man's  road."  To  accomplish  this 
astonishing  work  in  such  brief  time,  he  traveled  eight 
hundred  miles  upon  the  Sound  and  Strait  in  the  most 
inclement  season  of  the  year,  half  the  distance,  and  that 
the  most  dangerous,  in  a  small  sailing-craft.  He  disre- 
garded the  storms  and  rains  of  that  inclement  season, 
and  spared  neither  himself  nor  his  assistants.  It  is  not 
easy  to  say  who  had  the  hardest  task,  the  agents  and 
messengers  who  traveled  all  over  the  Sound  in  canoes  in 
the  tempestuous  rainy  season  to  call  the  scattered  bands 
together,  or  the  unfortunate  secretary,  who  had  to  catch 
and  set  down  on  paper  the  jaw-breaking  native  names. 


NAPOLEONIC  TREATY  CAMPAIGN  479 

The  success  and  rapidity  with  which  he  carried  through 
these  treaties  were  due  to  the  careful  and  thorough  man- 
ner in  which  he  planned  them,  and  prepared  the  minds 
of  the  Indians  by  his  tour  among  and  talks  to  them  a 
year  previous,  and  by  the  messages  and  agents  he  had 
sent  among  them.  Besides,  the  Indians  realized  their 
own  feebleness  and  uncertain  future,  divided  into  so 
many  bands,  exposed  to  the  depredations  of  the  north- 
ern Indians,  and  dreading  the  advent  and  encroachments 
of  the  whites.  Their  minds  consequently  were  well 
attuned  for  treating ;  and  when  they  understood  the  wise 
and  beneficent  policy  and  liberal  terms  offered  by  the 
governor,  they  gladly  accepted  them,  and  put  their  trust 
in  him  as  their  friend  and  protector,  a  trust  never  with- 
drawn and  never  forsaken. 

The  Indian  war  which  occurred  soon  after,  and  the 
delay  in  the  ratification  of  the  treaties,  seriously  militated 
against  carrying  out  the  beneficent  policy  so  well  inau- 
gurated, and  later  the  occasional  appointment  of  ineffi- 
cient and  dishonest  agents  has  proved  even  more  detri- 
mental ;  but  notwithstanding  all  these  drawbacks  the 
Indians  have  made  substantial  advances  in  civilization, 
and  it  is  interesting  to  compare  their  present  condition,  as 
given  in  the  last  reports  of  the  Commissioner  of  Indian 
Affairs,  and  from  local  sources. 

Their  numbers  have  diminished  only  about  one  half. 
No  one  seeing  their  debased  condition  in  1850  to  1860 
(except  the  Makahs)  would  have  deemed  it  possible  for 
them  to  hold  their  own  so  well. 

Makahs 750 

Tulalip  Agency,  lower  Sound  Indians    .     .     .     1700 
Puyallup  Agency,  upper  Sound  Indians      .     .     1850 

4300 


480  ISAAC  INGALLS  STEVENS 

All  now  wear  civilized  dress,  and  live  in  houses.  Many- 
can  read  and  write,  and  many  of  their  children  attend  the 
reservation  schools. 

"  Among  the  Makahs,  many  of  the  younger  Indians  are  turn- 
ing their  attention  to  farming  and  raising  stock,  and  many  of 
them  have  fine  gardens.  They  still  catch  a  great  many  fish, 
sending  them  to  market  in  Seattle  by  steamer,  and  have  caught 
and  shipped  as  high  as  10,000  pounds  in  one  day.  There  are 
few  places  with  so  large  a  population  where  so  little  crime  is 
committed." 

All  the  reservations  on  the  Sound  have  now  been  allot- 
ted, and  the  Indians  are  living  on  their  respective  allot- 
ments. A  considerable  number  have  taken  up  farms 
under  the  homestead  laws,  or  purchased  lands  from  the 
whites,  and  are  farming  successfully,,  Such  Indians  are 
frequently  seen  driving  into  the  towns  with  good  wagons 
and  teams,  as  well  dressed  as  the  average  white  rancher, 
and  accompanied  ofttimes  by  their  wives  and  children. 

"  Practically  all  these  Indians  dress  as  civilized  men  and 
women,  and  live  in  houses,  some  of  which  are  good,  comfortable, 
and  roomy,  fully  equal  to  the  average  farm  dwellings  in  prosper- 
ous communities  of  whites,  and  from  these  they  grade  down  to 
the  most  squalid  shacks  imaginable.  Under  the  influence  of 
the  teachers,  and  the  example  of  the  more  advanced  Indians 
and  the  better  class  of  white  neighbors,  there  is  slow  but  sure 
improvement  in  this  particular." 

During  the  fall  hundreds  of  them  congregate  on  the 
hop-fields,  where  they  supply  the  most  reliable  hop-pick- 
ers, whole  families  —  men,  women,  and  children  —  dili- 
gently working  together.  After  this  harvest  crowds  of 
them  flock  into  the  towns,  and  lay  in  stores  of  clothing 
and  provisions  for  the  winter  before  returning  home.1 

1  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs'  Report  for  1899,  pp.  301-303, 612. 


Electrotyped  and  printed  by  H.  O.  Houghton  &*  Co. 
Cambridge,  Mass,  U.S.  A. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 


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on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 

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